Is this your first bike?

You should really check out the beginner advice thread and the $200-600 thread in addition to this one. There's a lot of helpful advice in there including SIZING. KNOWING YOUR SIZE IS SUPER IMPORTANT SO KNOW THAT FIRST.

Also, if you're in this price bracket and you don't already have the essential bike accessories:

• A Front Brake and Lever and Cable if you're not sure what sizes you need make a post in the weekly questions thread. Some of the bikes I suggest have one already, but if they don't GET ONE.
  
  
• A Floor Pump
  
  
• A Metric Hex Set
  
  
• A 15mm wrench if your wheels require it (most do)
  
  
• A Lockring Tool 100% essential if you plan to ride fixed
  
  
• Some Grease
  
  
• Good pedals! Clips and straps, bmx straps, or clipless can all benefit greatly from a little extra cash.
  
  
• A helmet
  
  Note there are other options for all of these that could allow you to save money/space/whatever, but you won't go wrong with what I linked. I'd really suggest having these even if it means you go down a price bracket on the actual bike, they'll all come in handy.
  
  

  New Bikes
  

  
  

• An Upgraded Dolan Precursa at £Whateveryouwanttospend is just so customizable and awesome and the pricing is great and really everyone should get this if they can. I'd highly suggest opting for the front brake, miche pistard clincher wheelset (tubular if you're riding track ONLY), and sugino75 crankset options. You can even get direct drives for only £109 extra ( a $500 crankset whaaaat) so that's cool. If you really want to dive headfirst you can get clipless pedals too, but if you don't know what those are definitely make a post in the weekly questions thread.
  
  
• The Specialized Langster at $650 retail is a super solid street and track bike. They go on sale sometimes for less and for $600 or less it's really a no brainer.
  
  
• The Wabi Classic at $750 has been my go to recommendation for a long time. It's made of super high quality steel has excellent customization options, and is all around awesome. The biggest downside is the super relaxed geo. If you want something that rides more like an average road bike check out the Special or Lightning
  
  
• The PoloandBike Williamsburg at £760 is a great option for European riders. The name brand finishing kit and artchetype rims give it that custom bike feel for a good value complete bike. If you swap out the front tire and maybe upgrade the crank this bike can be truly superb.
  
  
• The All-City Big Block at $950 is easily the best looking bike on this list imo, but that aside it's a super ultra double awesome track bike. Really well rounded and could easily be the last fixed gear you buy. One thing to watch out for is the long top tubes that all city loves so much so take a close look at that geo chart.
  
  

  Used Bikes
  

  
  Another great thing about this price bracket is the used market. I daresay it is easy to find outstanding value bikes used in this price range if you know what you're doing. I helped a friend source this for $1100 and we were being choosey! Again, if you need help post in the questions thread or just PM me because I like helping people with this stuff.
  
  
  
  
  
  

I would buy a Haynes manual for your car. If you can't get one from Haynes or Amazon, eBay should have a second hand one for very little. This will give you all the advice and guidance you need on maintaining your car. It will also provide some help on buying tools. It should also allow you to do a lot of 'inspection' work yourself - so I wouldn't bother taking it to the professionals for that unless you find something wrong that you don't think you can handle yourself.

The light thing is normal. As long as they go off when you start the car, that's fine.

In terms of tools, I'd start modestly and then buy extra stuff when you need it. But these are things you will need to get started:

• Socket set: I would get one that only has metric sockets (as you won't have much use for the imperial ones on modern cars). You will probably need at least the following size sockets: 8mm, 10mm, 12mm, 13mm, 14mm, 15mm, 17mm, 19mm, 21mm. German cars use a lot of 16mm but they are fairly uncommon elsewhere. You may need to fill the 'gaps' in as you do more work. Try to get one that is aimed at mechanics as this will have useful extras that you will need such as 'deep' sockets and spark plug sockets. My best advice would be to get a fairly large one with 1/2", 3/8" and 1/4" ratchet wrenches (the wrenches are still measured in imperial - the sockets themselves will still be metric). If you can't afford this, a joint 1/2" and 3/8" would do, or maybe just a 3/8" set at a pinch. You don't need really expensive ones but avoid very cheap sets. Expect to pay at least $50+ for a decent set. This one is aimed at mechanics and includes some of the other stuff in the list below. It's at the cheap end of the market but should be fine to start with for occasional work. But if you can afford a better one I would spend a bit more.
  
  
• Screwdrivers: flat head and Phillips (cross-head)
  
  
• A set of hex keys ('Allen wrenches') like this one
  
  
• A set of 'combination' wrenches with one 'open' and one 'closed' end like this.
  
  
• You should also get at least one torque wrench. This makes sure you tighten nuts, etc. to the correct tightness. I may seem like a luxury but I assure you it's not. You'll probably need to cover a range of torques from about 25Nm to 120Nm for basic tasks.
  
  
• Other wrenches such as a water pump wrench, a 'mole grip' and some pliers would also be useful.
  
  
• A rubber mallet is also useful.
  
  
• You will need a jack and axle (axel) stands, too.
  
  
• Good 'medium range' brands like Draper or Laser will be fine and probably last a lifetime for occasional use.
  
  That should set you up. I'm sure I've forgotten a few things and other people will add useful suggestions. It may seem quite a big outlay on tools at the start but you'll soon get your money back with saved garage bills. You'll probably become more attentive to your car's needs too and prevent many major problems arising. It's not very hard to do basic oil changes, filter changes, brake work, etc. and you might even find that (like me) you come to really enjoy it.
  
  Good luck!

I ride for fun, commute, and used to deliver and my gear essentials are

• A floor pump for presta and shraeder valves (if you go on long rides far from your place, it's worth it to have some CO2 canisters if you don't want a frame mounted pump since they don't ever get your tube up to the right PSI)
  
• 2 Tire levers
  
• patch kit
  
• spare tube
  
• chain gauge
  
• multi tool allen wrench set. this is the one i have, any will do.
  
• Toe cages/straps or if you've got the $$$ then clipless pedals and shoes
  
• Helmet
  
• Pizza rack/panniers for lugging stuff around
  
• Gloves (I've got 3 pairs, one for sub zero temps, one for 30-45, and one for lining or any time it's sort of too chilly to ride but not yet 45) A good alternative though is barmitts, which I've used and enjoyed. If you have drop bars though, it prevents you from using the drops so I don't recommend them for that.
  
• a good rain coat and possible rain pants. try a military surplus or hunting store and get one of their waterproof pant and jacket over wear things. Never had one but several of my coworkers did and it worked so well.
  
• helmet
  
• bike lights!!! i'd go w/ the cygolight rechargeable ones, but any front and rear should do
  
• a u lock or chain lock
  
• a rag and bottle of chain lube so u can clean your chain!! (if you don't know how then: peddle so your chain is moving and make sure to hold the rag in place so it cleans not only the sidewalls but the rollers as well, for very gritty chains use a toothbrush. when all the grit is gone, take your bottle of chain lube and hold it maybe at a 45 degree angle or something where the cassette/freewheel is and while peddling make sure to apply lube on the rollers not the sideplates. once you've done that, wipe it down with a rag a little bit (not as much as the first time), and you're good to go. Do this maybe once a week, or every time it rains)
  
  if you're not into racks then definitely consider a fanny pack or backpack that's waterproof to store essentials you don't want to get ruined if you're riding in the rain. check out montrose stitchery, she's awesome and local to me and totally worth it.
  Other than that, for fun stuff if you've got money to blow there's things like boombotics or other bluetooth speakers, a really pricey but still comfortable for you saddle (i'm talking brooks offerings especially the cambium or like the titanico selle anatomica), a second bike, bike tools (stand, spoke wrenches, metric wrench set, 3rd hand tool (for adjusting brakes when no one else is around to help you)), and any time I get a flat I like to keep those tubes and cut the valve part out so I can use them to tie stuff down or to replace bad upholstery on chairs.
  
  Sorry if that's a lot, I just thought I'd comment since bikes are kind of my job and then also a huge hobby for me.
  
  EDIT: Definitely check out co-ops, I actually volunteer at one in my city and we have a ton of stuff. Other than that, I like to check out ebay, occasionally performance bike (but i really try to support my LBS because of my friends), craigslist, and nashbar.com.
  

Like /u/jrm2191 said, Park Tool make some... comprehensive tool sets. Those prices are enough to make me choke, though. Your son's riding a ~$400 bike - I don't know how I would wrap my head around buying an $800 tool set, or even a $300 one.

But the tool sets are a good way to think about what tools you should buy. I'd get a basic tool set, fill in gaps, and upgrade selectively. What I'd do, in no particular order, would look like...

• cheap tool set ($40) (total $40)
  
• torque wrench ($50) (total $90)
  
• chain cleaning tool ($10) (total $100)
  
• cable cutting tool ($35) (total $135)
  
• maybe chain pliers? ($10) (total $145)
  
  At this point I would start thinking about upgrading the tools that your son will use all the time. The thing that stands out for me is hex tools. He might use Torx screws, but he'll definitely use metric hex tools
  
  
• some nice metric hex tools ($15) (total $160)
  
• some torx equivalents ($11) (total $171)
  
  Then probably nice meaty tire levers to make replacing tires and tubes easier
  
  
• tire levers ($9) (total $180)
  
  If you were looking to spend $300 or that range, then you'll notice you're way under that target. Feel free to start adding on some random nice things, like a portable multi-tool, which will pay off if he has an issue while out on a ride.
  
  
• Portable multi-tool ($25) (total $210)
  
  I'm running out of things that aren't "consumable" (like brake cables, housing, etc...), so for my last recommendation, nitrile work gloves! (they'll make cleanup a breeze)
  
  
• work gloves ($20) (total $230)
  
  There are tons of other things you could get (a bike stand, for instance) but at this point I'm getting a bit out of control. and there are tools I assume you have (e.g. a good screwdriver), but at some point I need to stop.
  
  And obviously feel free to mix and match whatever components you can afford/feel comfortable spending that much money on. One thing that might help would be to talk with him about what kind of work he does on his bike. He might be in desperate need of hex tools, but not treating himself to nice hex wrenches. That could be your quick, easy, cheap answer. Or similarly he might be nervously tightening bolts without a torque wrench, even in places that call for very precise amounts of torque. Again, easy answer regarding what to prioritize.
  
  Best of luck
  
  edit: totals didn't add up right, sorry!

They're upselling you, hard. Keep in mind that they make a commission off of sales.

A $400-$800 bike will last you as long as you could possibly want, and if you're a beginner you won't be able to tell the difference between the parts on that and the parts on a $1500 bike. Hell, I spent three summers building bikes in a bike shop, and the only ones that stood out to me as significantly different were the Electras, which were garbage (you're paying for the paint job with those).

The guys at that shop aren't lying to you about the quality of the parts and smoothness, but the function of a $1500 bike will not be twice as good as $750 bike. The difference will be much less pronounced. They are misleading you about the frequency of maintenance, though. That will not be meaningfully different. Getting the brakes and derailleurs back in "whack" is also not terribly difficult, and is something you can do yourself with the help of Youtube.

My advice is to test ride a bunch of bikes under $800 and buy the one that feels best. Use thirty bucks of that savings to buy needle-nose pliers, a three way, and whatever other wrenches fit your bike. Go on Youtube and look up brake adjustments and derailleur adjustments. I just noticed you're looking for hydraulic disk brakes, and the good news is that those are the easiest sorts of brakes to tune - they're pretty much golden out-of-the-box, and there's no cable to stretch over time. If you ever drop the wheels out, make sure to put a shim between the brake pads, as they'll work themselves together over time and that is no fun.

Also, don't forget about the used market. These bikes aren't changing a whole lot from year-to-year, despite what the sales folks may tell you. You can save a lot by getting a bike from someone compulsively upgrading or someone who bought a mountain bike only to discover they actually wanted a hybrid or road bike.

If you want to buy new (and I certainly understand the appeal!), shops will have sales at the end of the summer where they're trying to clear out this year's inventory. They'll also have leftover stock of this year's models when the season starts next year, and they will really want to get rid of those.

These might be some more "advanced items" but I have found them all to be of extreme usefulness and not too expensive to justify. Note: Where provided Amazon links are for reference only and I have no financial interest in the sale of the item listed.

- A set of ball-tipped metric hex key wrenches. The ball end allows you to get around obstacles and still rotate the fastener. https://www.amazon.com/Bondhus-10946-Balldriver-L-wrenches-1-5-5mm/dp/B0006O4AEC Note: You'll only need, IIRC, three sizes but the set is still cheaper than buying the individual keys.

- A clean popsicle stick works great to "scrape" or swipe the occasional pre-print and post-print drip from a hot nozzle's orifice and cannot damage the metal. Actually a suggested tool by a lot of industrial hot melt adhesive system companies for the reasons I just stated.

- A small open topped container, about the size of a kids sand pail, for all the waste support, brim, raft and skirt material you'll be generating. I happened to have a clean empty plastic 1 gallon OJ jug and cut off the top where the jug started to narrow leaving me a 8" tall "bucket". Small enough to keep next to the machine because tiny bits of PLA...

- A small magnifying glass, good for layer quality inspections.

- A small AA powered penlight, I had one anyway on hand anyway but was surprised at how often I needed it around the printer that it now lives there full time.

- A plastic paint scraper since I do lots of technical prints that leave large amounts of random first layer support spaghetti stuck all over the build plate. https://www.amazon.com/Red-Devil-4718-3-Piece-Plastic/dp/B001SBJIA8 (I know for a fact this set I've linked to is soft enough not to scratch the PEI coating. You actually only want the smallest scraper in the set, the other two can be used for what ever but at $2.99 per set even if you never need the larger ones it's no big loss.)

- A small table-top digital humidity and temperature gauge to monitor your printer's local "micro-climate". At the beginning I found that there was some temp/humidity related print quality issues where I had first set up my printer that forced me to relocate it and the only way I figured that out was by using this gauge. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0013BKDO8/

- Good quality needle nose pliers with some grip to them. The pliers Prusa included with the printer are, IMNSHO, junk. I have both of these and am satisfied with both:

Good: https://www.amazon.com/Xcelite-378M-Profile-Electronic-Serrated/dp/B004UNFK58

Better (and cheaper): https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FZPHEW2/

I bought a "deluxe toolkit" from Nashbar while ago, and I still use a lot of them, but some of them just didn't cut it.
If I am going to buy all the tools I have right now, I'd probably buy these.

• Feedback sports bike stand
  
• Rezyne (or Hozan) pedal wrench
  
• Wiha color coded hex keys
  
• Pro bike chain tool
  
• Quick link plier - I have a Park tool one.
  
• Tire levers, rubber cement and and patch. I like Rezyne's steel tire levers the best.
  
• Metric combination wrenches from any hardware or automotive store
  
• Park Tool cable cutter
  
• 5 and 6nm torque wrench
  
• Big ish adjustable wrench
  
• Cassette removal and chain whip - pretty much any brand.
  
• Lezyne 20 Tooth / 8 Notch Splined Bottom Bracket Socket Tool - if you have like square taper and old ish BB
  
• Shimano Hollowtech II BB tool by Bikehand if you have Hollowtech BB.
  
• Bike specific grease. I have a few but probably ProGold grease, and Boeshield T-9 oil.
  
  But, if you are buying a kit, Bikehand (expensive one) is pretty nice, but I would buy the better ones as piece meal as you go along.
  Also, if you have a bike coop in your area, use it. You can learn how to use the tools, and you can also try the tools from various brand. It's mostly Park and Pedro's.
  
  EDIT: Things like cone wrenches that comes in the kit isn't very good. In the long run, Park/Hozan/Pedro's cone wrenches is a much better investment.

For me, this: https://www.amazon.com/Park-Tool-PH-1-2-P-Handled-Wrench/dp/B003FPONCI/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1541802830&sr=8-2&keywords=park+tool+allen+key&dpID=419-T8tUMxL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

​

I was too stingy to buy good allen keys for a very long time because I had a ton of really cheap ones, and the cheap ones did work. But every time I use the ones above, I think: "These were so worth it". I say that to myself every single time.

​

Not a tool, but since someone else mentioned a tire: 200 miles ago I put on some Maxis Hookworms - best commuting tires I ever had. Wow. I had Vee Chinane and then Vee Speedster before - I got flats every other week, none on the hookworms and the hookworms are much more stable on less grippy surfaces either. Every time I reach a place I think: Wow, those are the best tires I ever had.

​

Other tools I use constantly:

- my bike repair stand, i use this one: https://www.amazon.com/Bikehand-Mechanic-Bicycle-Repair-Stand/dp/B00D9B7OKQ/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1541802939&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=bikehand+bike+stand&psc=1

- my chain link tool: https://www.amazon.com/d/Bike-Shop-Tools/Park-Tool-Master-Pliers-MLP-1-2/B00D9NW32I/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1541803019&sr=8-1&keywords=park+tool+chain+link+tool

- A good portable multitool with chainbreaker: https://www.amazon.com/d/Bike-Multifunction-Tools/Topeak-Alien-31-Function-Bicycle-Tool/B000FIE4AE/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1541803074&sr=8-2&keywords=alien+tool

​

​

I think it's wiser to learn how to properly setup a guitar on your own. It's not as difficult as many people think and only requires a few amount of tools. Here's what I use:

• Feeler Gauge
  
• Allen Wrench Set
  
• String Winder
  
• Screwdrivers
  
• Capo
  
• Precision Ruler
  
  That's basically it. You don't really need anything else unless you are getting into advanced guitar repair stuff like fretwork or wiring and the like (in which case I would advise you do take it to a pro unless you know what you're doing).
  
  Total cost = $39.93 That's cheaper than any professional guitar setup I know of.
  
  From there you just have learn how to do simple things like neck adjustments, intonation, string height, and pickup height. You can find out how to do all of this stuff with a simple search on youtube.
  
  The advantages of doing it yourself are plentiful. You can find out exactly what relief you like in the neck and exactly what type of action you like on your strings. Professional setups just setup the guitars the way they think they should be setup which isn't always the way you would want to do it.
  
  Also, my guitars go out of whack with the seasons as the neck can fluctuate with the temperature and other things. Rather than pay another x amount of dollars to get it setup again, you can just set it back to the way you original set it up.
  
  TL;DR Learn to setup a guitar yourself. It's better.
  
  EDIT: You need a tuner too. For some reason I just think every guitar player has one of these already.

For allen keys, I never have good experience with multi-key tools. Instead I recommend these. Not as portable, but you really don't need them to be. These are quality wrenches, but the thing that really makes them nice is the way the kit is organized.

Basic tools are always good BIFL investments. And if you don't consider yourself to be super handy, that's a good life skill to pick up while you're young.

Someone asked for stocking stuffer ideas in a superthread a few weeks ago and I posted this list:

• Bondhus folding allen keys, available in both standard and metric
  
• Leatherman Skeletool, my daily carry pocketknife
  
• A grunge brush to make chain maintenance easier
  
• Tank pads
  
• A nice, accurate tire pressure gauge
  
• A cargo net
  
• Novelty keychains
  
• SK68 flashlights
  
• Water bottles
  
• If they have GoPros: Batteries, mounts, microSD cards
  
• Battery tenders
  
• These wonderful cloth scarf things that I use to keep my lips from being chapped in the morning
  
• Glow fuses
  
• Sunscreen!
  
• If they're into touring, toiletry supplies for the road!
  
• A grip-lock
  
• A cheap bluetooth - I have one of these, Sena is way nicer but these are good if you are on a budget
  
• Warm layers to wear under the riding jacket
  
• Comfortable socks and underwear
  
  Also, this LEGO kit is on my wishlist

That's a great bike to start with. I started off with a bike in much worse condition.

I usually start off by giving the bike a quick wash. Just water and some dish soap to get off all dust and loose dirt. After that I dry it with an old towel.

Then comes the tear down. I put it on my stand and remove the wheels and set them aside. Then I just start cutting off all the cables (brakes and derailleur). After that, the chain gets it. I use the Park chain tool.

Then its on to removing the derailleurs, cranks, stem/bars, brakes, etc. Rear derailleurs are mostly removable with a 5mm allen wrench. Front derailleurs, too, although some of the older ones may just have a hex head. The seat post binder bolt is usually 5mm, also. Hopefully it isn't stuck. If it is, just come back and ask for methods.

Onto the stem and handlebars. To remove the stem, just loosen up the bolt up top a couple turns and tap it with a hammer and hopefully it slides out without a fight. Then remove the brake levers from the bar, then the bar from the stem.

I use this tool for the allen bolts. Park AWS 10

To remove the pedals from the cranks, I use a snap-on 15mm wrench. Remember, the pedal on the left side is reverse-threaded.

The bolt (or nut) on the crank arms is most likely 14mm and on much older bikes sometimes 15mm. I use a 14mm socket with a ratchet.

Removing the cranks from the bottom bracket spindle can be a pain sometimes. The tool to remove them is a crank puller. I use the park ccp-22. Make sure the threads are clean on the crank apply a little grease on the tool. Try to make the tool screw in the most it can and don't cross-thread. Aim to get the tool to bottom-out on the crank. Then you start spinning the handle and then you'll get a little workout on your arms.

By this point I usually just have a frame, fork, headset, and bottom bracket left. I'm tired so I'll just stop typing for now, heh.

Ask If you need any help. Someone will gladly help you here and see if you have a local bike co-op/ kitchen nearby. They could be a great asset.

Dude, you should see my Amazon wish list......full of Wera stuff, but yeah, my wallet cringes each time I start browsing Wera. Really want these and this and these (although I have the same set, just with less bits) and these and this and this to put it all in..........that's like half the wishlist 😆

Warwick sells tools on their website for their instruments but honestly you'd be better off just getting a set of metric allen wrenches with some small sizes. Looks like the standard warwick tool set is 1.5 and 2.5 mm, you can get that in a standard allen key set.

I have not used these Swiss Tools ones but I have great luck with these: https://www.amazon.com/Bondhus-69600-Double-L-Wrench-ColorGuard/dp/B00FBFI6T6/ref=sr_1_12?keywords=bondus+allen&qid=1573885250&sr=8-12

Yup, I have had both for years. They’re not much more expensive but they’re waaaay better and they’re made in the USA. I just got the Bondhus stubby ball-end hex keys for tight access and they are fantastic.

Bondhus 67099 Stubby Double Ball End L-Wrench Set with ProGuard Finish and Extra Long Arm, 9 Piece https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01F6PWYVG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_iq6RDb365J7GF

Na, you'll need it lol. It's essential. Just make sure you make all your pedal adjustments before you mount it to your rig, otherwise it'll be impossible.

And make sure you have some stubby hex keys like this

Bondhus 67099 Stubby Double Ball End L-Wrench Set with ProGuard Finish and Extra Long Arm, 9 Piece https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01F6PWYVG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_4GRwDbWQTD78B

Or you won't be able to get between the plate and the rig to tighten it down!

MIP tools are great and available on Amazon. I was using some crap Dynamite hex drives that stripped three nuts in a row. The MIP tools handled those same stripped nuts without a problem.

MIP's are precision tooled and the reassurance and comfort I get from using them was well worth the price.

I use this tool set, these metric allen keys, this valve key (If you need to take apart any gbb mags), and white lithium grease. I apply the grease with paintbrushes which works well. That stuff, tape, a knife, and a dremel solves like 95% of my issues.

I'm currently settling in for the night, but I'll let you know once I wake up tomorrow.


In the meantime, this has been a huge help for me: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00I5TH074

Things that are definitely missing:

• Peddle wrenches (i.e. any 15mm wrench that isn't too thick.)
  
• Tire levers
  
• Chain cleaner
  
  Depending on what a "novice cyclist" repairs and rides:
  
  
• cone wrenches
  
  Things that you might change:
  
  
• Don't really need the expensive toque wrench. The 5 nm one of these will suffice for many things (bar clamp, rear derailleur, etc.)
  
• T-handle hex keys are nice when they work but there are sometimes clearance issues. If only one or other, simple L-shaped hex keys are probably the safer choice.
  

Just pick up a simple T-handle hex key set like this http://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-T-Handle-Hex-Key-Set-10-Piece-HTHKSM10PC/205300302 for $10 at home depot, I think they even carry single T-handles for about $2-3 each if you know the size you need. If you just have to use the Amazon gift card http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0006SDTEU?keywords=T-handle%20hex%20wrench&qid=1452307097&ref_=sr_1_3&sr=8-3

Everything.

#expectedthanos#avengers#endgame

The thermal paste+pads cost me roughly $18 total. I already had the security torx and spudgers, so they didn't cost me anything.

If you need to buy Torx wrenches, these are the ones I used. I quite like Bondhus because they're made in the USA and they offer a lifetime warranty. They cost more than Chinese made tools, but I've never had one break, and if they do, its not a huge deal to get them replaced.

These are the spudgers I use. Any spudger would probably work just as well. I would stay away from metal ones though. Plastic spudgers won't mar plastic, while metal ones will.

Take the opportunity. This tool is handy. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0009W9BT0/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

But actually most fasteners aren't that huge unless you're doing suspension work or heavy equipment. I did most of my work in school with a half inch ratchet and two rails that go to like 25mm and 1". I got a sunex deep impact set and a 1/2" nitrocat impact gun, and a tekton big wrench set. Also a precision instruments brand torque wrench, 1/2", does several hundred foot pounds. Got their inch pounds wrench too. Don't forget a long 1/2" breaker bar, pry bars, crows foot bar. And leave your adjustable wrench at home where it belongs, other than that rigid one I posted. =]
All that said, I later realized I want to work on sprinters, so I don't need that big of tools anyhow.

https://www.pcc.edu/programs/diesel/documents/tool-list.pdf

I don't know if you guys are seeing metric in the field these days, but this seems like a good hex tool:

https://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-Wrench-Metric-30-Piece-25253/dp/B00I5TH074

Bought these 3 years ago, they are still sharp :) Be careful with power drivers...

I like using a spud wrench and large crescent wrench for anything with a nice finish. You can also get finish pliers that have no teeth to scratch with.

Spud Wrench -http://www.amazon.com/Ridgid-31305-8-Inch-8-Inch-Capacity/dp/B0009W9BT0

Finish pliers - http://www.nkbaxter.com/Channellock-Pliers.html

Haven't seen it mentioned here but whatever you buy, get yourself a decent hex driver kit. I always recommend the MIP Thorp kit. There are a couple other quality brands, but I've had these for years and years. If you go cheap here (or worse, use regular allen wrenches) you will be stripping out screw heads left and right and that will absolutely take away from the fun.

I just search for long hex set and this came up:

http://www.amazon.com/83341-Wrench-Dipped-T-Handle-10-Piece/dp/B0006SDTEU/ref=sr_1_14?ie=UTF8&qid=1452279344&sr=8-14&keywords=long+hex+set

Seems good to go.

You can buy one with multiple sizes, like this :

Allen wrench multi tool

Only a month late getting back to you on this...

The three case with three handles are all torque screwdrivers

Links to everything here:

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B009ODV0OE/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B01BSKR35U/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B009ODV0PI/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00E8HM9N2/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B001555G80/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B01H88FP24/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I bought this recently. Complete overkill for coil building, but it's nice to have a ton of hex key sizes available for pretty much anything. There's been so many times I've had to put something together, and either it didn't include a hex wrench, or the one with it sucked or broke. Now I'm set for almost anything.

I bought this one when I've lost my Allen keys. It looks like the same one. It's got some crazy small ones in it that you could easily break with your fingers.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00I5TH074/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?qid=1465015672&sr=8-3&pi=SX200_QL40&keywords=tekton+allen+wrench+set&dpPl=1&dpID=51DxY719GTL&ref=plSrch

There are others. You just have to shop around. https://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-Wrench-Metric-26-Piece-25252/dp/B00I5TGZO8/ref=pd_day0_hl_469_3/142-9971111-9178229?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00I5TGZO8&pd_rd_r=4d25691d-6f1e-11e9-93e4-9f5b0bbd650f&pd_rd_w=326AE&pd_rd_wg=ThnnQ&pf_rd_p=ad07871c-e646-4161-82c7-5ed0d4c85b07&pf_rd_r=1W3VPT175YV3H2D1QQ5Q&psc=1&refRID=1W3VPT175YV3H2D1QQ5Q

RIDGID 31305 Model E-110 Hex Wrench, 9-1/2-inch Offset Hex Wrench https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0009W9BT0/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_hkYKBb262GX12

Wera 05022639001 L-key-Set for 950 SPKL/9 SZ imperial https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01H88FP24/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_bvC5AbNC4WBWQ

Bondhaus L-Wrench Ball End

Bondhus 69600 Ball End Double Pack L-Wrench Set with ColorGuard, 13 Piece https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FBFI6T6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_l0zNBb4AF9N52

I tried a ton of Allen keys and couldn’t get find a correctly sized one. I bought this set thinking it might work and it did not.

TEKTON Hex Key Wrench Set,... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00I5TH074?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

All I can say is don’t try this set.

Wera

https://www.amazon.ca/Wera-05022639001-L-key-Set-SPKL-imperial/dp/B01H88FP24?th=1&psc=1&source=googleshopping&locale=en-CA&tag=googcana-20&ref=pd_sl_9g5uadgaju_e

>Just keep one of those swiss army Allen tools. You know what I'm talking about.

I know exactly what you're talking about

Order the parts and bring them in to install.

cassette $25

chainring $9

chain $21

koolstop pads pair $8

EDIT: Or do it yourself...

BB tool

cassette lockring tool

chain tool

allen wrenches

Below are links to everything on Amazon:

Crazy Ants Reel Rolling Tool Bag Pouch Professional Electricians Organizer https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00O0FN832/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_OtgGzb838Y9H5

BXQINLENX 8 PCS Gundam Modeler Basic Tools Craft Set For Car Model Assemble Building(A) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GH6B3Z6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_grgGzbFBB475F

Stanley 84-096 5-Inch Needle Nose Plier https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0001IW50Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_gtgGzb2XFXKT9

StarTech.com 7-Piece Precision Screwdriver Computer Tool Kit (CTK100P) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0001NYK16/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_0ugGzbMGHA2NQ

Dynamite 5 pc Metric Nut Driver Assortment https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BQ4XPQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_rvgGzb3V9N7CK

NEEWER® Titanium Nitride TiNi Hex Driver Wrench 4 Piece Set 1.5mm/2mm/2.5mm/3.0mm https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CP2GGBI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_7WgGzb3WEWHC0

Bondhus 12592 GorillaGrip Hex Tip Fold Up Tool with ProGuard Finish, 7 Piece https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00269YAIQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_zXgGzbJZRSBR6

There are also a few assorted items in there as well, standard scissors, small little brush(for getting dirt out of the quad in a crash), extra 12v power chord for my balance charger, small wrench(for propeller nuts), a couple extra small screw drivers. In the pouches: micro fiber cloth for fpv camera lens, zip ties and Velcro tape.

Not sure who makes it but any half decent kit would work.

http://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-25253-Hex-Wrench-30-Piece/dp/B00I5TH074/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1450993756&sr=8-1&keywords=hex+kit

That fancy Park Tools hex wrench is 8 bucks. The screwdrivers are what, 2 dollars each?.

I don't understand going through all the trouble of cutting those steel wires for less than 12 bucks worth of tools that are not even new. Assholes.

There are torx wrenches if you don't feel like opening the door all the way.

You're right, smaller than 1.5mm is actually pretty hard to find unless you buy a complete set.

If I didn't already have enough to drown in, I'd probably get this set.

http://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-25253-Hex-Wrench-30-Piece/dp/B00I5TH074/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1462844760&sr=8-5&keywords=hex+key+set

I thought I could get away without these when I was building my first kit. After about three hours, my hands were throbbing from trying to use the low-quality tools that I had.

Get the right tool for the job. Buy once, cry once. You'll never need to buy another set in your life.

Here's a link to the set that I bought: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00D7DK0NY

this is a good set, and for 6 bucks.. a steal https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0006O4AEC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1