Reddit mentions: The best interconnect cables

Wow.. this is easily the longest reply I have ever gotten. I have replied much longer before but yeah.. Not complaining at all thanks for taking the time to write it. I will reply as I read through.

Wiring for me I have never been all that hesitant to. I have been hit with 120 a few times and it's mainly a burn for me. The one that really surprised me though was taking apart a blender and well I had shorts on and you can touch one wire and be fine just not both unless you and the wiring are grounded of course. Anyway I was on my bed and one wire was touching my leg and the other I grabbed with my hand... So that was an interesting experience.

I am the type that will take one of those cigarette lighters that electric spark? take off the guard, put your thumb over it and go... clicky clicky...

As for the JST bit I appreciate the links. I am familiar with them and how to do that I just never have. I would need a reason to get them, maybe this is it? But the wago or other lever type connectors seem to be easier and or cheaper. I will figure it out when it gets here.

> personally I mangled the connector housings and pins on my stepper cables trying to swap pins over.

Yeah I think you need the pin remover. I was watching a few youtube videos about it, and well here I believe is the one I watched. Relevant portion is at the 7:05 mark https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RhU0D7fDR98 It's called an extraction tool, or extractor. There are quite a few different ones for different applications. If I got into solderless pin connections that's one of the things I would buy.

So for me going that kind of connector route would be about 10 or so for the extractor, 20 for the crimper, maybe 10 or so for the connectors. But let's say it was just 30 or so total. Ok... or I could go with the wago lever connectors for 15 and could splice 50 sets of wires that could be undone with a flick of a lever. It's not as nice looking as a connector but it's still doable. Also knowing me, I'd still throw some heat shrink tubing onto the crimped pins. But I already have that and a heat gun.

>Building a cat proof mdf enclosure for the printer so I can take it home within the next month or so is on the cards.

I plan on copying the corner bracing and modifying those. Well I want to replace all the melamine parts eventually but yeah. The idea would be to modify those in a way I could easily attach side and top panels. Likely something like 1/4" plexi glass. I don't like how the socket caps stick out, so I would use countersunk screws to make the screw head flush with the printed brace. Then either on the back side hollow out a section for a neodymium magnet for each corner and do the same for the plexiglass, or maybe thumbscrews? Or possibly just make it so it's like the side of a PC case where it slides in and out The top would likely be semi permanent and attached with screws but the sides would be like just slide the panel up and take it off that way. The front maybe the same way or use hinges or whatever. I don't think I will print any ABS I hear enclosures could help with that. My main reason for doing it is dust. Dust I hear can mess up prints so keeping it enclosed may help with the quality.

For me an MDF enclosure would be really easy to do, I may do that as a frame then attach plexi to the outside and just have a box that goes over it? but that to me seems like cheating and or wasted space... also no challenge. I like challenging myself so unless I absolutely need it and I can't figure out the other bit then maybe? But what I have in mind should be relatively easy to do.

About the router stand... Looks good, but I must admit when I read "router", I thought of like an actual router well the woodworking kind.

The CTC-3D clone? or? I haven't looked into those so I am not very familiar. I am mainly interested in kits not fully working right out of the box... and you answered that later in the post... nice.

The fan bit. I plan on tinkering around a lot with that well the shroud bit. I have thought of an experiment to try to test out which ones are better, and I will throw in different speeds, different nozzles as well and document the process. I will take a few that others have designed, and design some of my own to see how they differ in performance. The test will be of multiple prints of a similar object, essentially 2 poles at varying distances, like half an inch up to say 3 to 5 inches or however long to see how far each can bridge the gap with little to no sagging. Then maybe ledges at varying lengths.

As for the V6 clone bit. I already bought one of these J-Head V6 Bowden and an MK8 Bowden feeder. I primarily got those to see if I like the bowden setup over the direct. If I find out I like the direct I will probably get this. If I like the bowden bit I think I could still get that one and just change out the heat sink and use the other bits. Either or fun times ahead.

>Or even the new e3d aero if you don't want v6 style eating into your build height.

If I need more build height, I can just get some longer rods, and some longer 2020's and extend it out. My main thing is I wanted 12"^2, since this is like 15.75" unless it takes 3.75" more of build height away I don't think I will fret too much.

>Definitely use the stock for a few months

A few months is an eternity for me. Maybe it will take that long to get built and dialed in? Who knows... Either or... the plan is to get the printer from kit form built and working and at least functional with prints. The only "change" will likely be with a 12x12 glass or mirror bed. Once it's up and running and I have a base to work from that I know works. Then I will change it over to bowden with the ones I linked and try that out for a while. Then decide whether I want to get the e3d one or not. The only reason I'd get the e3d one is the socks which I could buy seperate and the hotend tube. If I could find that bit seperate I probably wouldn't buy the complete kit. I know I can buy the "clone" version but the teflon tube is used as a liner and I'd like it to potentially be able to get up to around 300c without worrying about that liner melting. I also plan on getting some stainless nozzles and maybe... just maybe one of the tungsten ones. Not necessarily to use with this printer but likely the one that I design and build after this one. Think multiple independent extruders(not sharing the same block), and large... er build volume. I won't get too much into that idea right now though.

>I'd say the z axis rods are the one part of this built machine that is a little more difficult to access/disassemble easily

Yeah I'd say that looks fair. But that's also one of the selling points for me. That design looks rock solid. Even with the shitty melamine. I think once you get the binding figured out on the Z and have an idea how to do it regularly it will become less and less of a pain. As for the threaded and smooth rods, and only the threaded need to be somewhat loose? I heard it was pretty much all of them until it was aligned properly. Try loosening all of them up a little bit. Running it to the top and bottom then go to the top, tighten things down then down to the bottom then tighten. That should resolve any binding. From my understanding at least. It doesn't seem like you have tried that approach yet.

>TBH the melamine parts aren't that terrible.

Well for me I am not hugely against it but yeah. They work just not for my liking. I was initially hoping they would be actual solid melamine. But it looks like it is actually a melamine coating on top of low quality mdf. If it was actual melamine it would be a lot harder and wouldn't crush that easily. Actual melamine is a lot closer to a plastic than what that appears to be. Here in the states at least melamine is commonly put over particle board for counter tops. It's good so long as you don't get water on the edges as it will eventually swell.

As for the bracing... I assume you have home improvement stores there? If so try to find some of these if you don't want to print out new ones. Just figure out the dimensions you want with those flat corner braces and use those. You may need slightly smaller M5's but those are pretty cheap as well. Or if you have a grinder... you could knock a few MM off the ones you have.

>standard board will do the job just fine. The lure of touch/colour screens for 32 bit SBase boards isn't really for me.

I don't think I will go the touch screen route designed for these, If I go that route I will likely add wifi capability, and add a small tablet with browser functionality ;)... The reason for me, for 32 bit is 1/128 stepping, as well as quieter motors, and can be more complex without the program stuttering due to not being able to keep up with the needed calculations. With that I plan on trying to see the maximum print speed I can get and still get decent quality. Just to give you an idea. I plan on bolting it down to a heavy surface due to the inertia of the motors going side to side to keep it rock solid, that may give you an idea on how fast I am planning on cranking this or the next one up to, and yes I know I will likely need better motors and or stronger drivers and crank up the current. Maybe even a stouter belt system? Enclosed chain perhaps? Or longitudinal setup like this? http://www.technicopedia.com/8094/8094-2longitudinal.jpg, well without the extra bits.

As for the USB bit I am going to tinker around with that and SD card, I have a spare laptop I don't really use I can use for that purpose.

> No Way! I also have a 2011 Honda CRZ EX. I'm installing a Kenwood DDX0703S next week so maybe you can help me avoid some headaches with the install.

Happy to help however I can. crzforum.com is also an AMAZING resource; about the best on the internet for CRZ info.

> The Metra 70-1730 Wire Harness I bought seems to have a subwoffer RCA but the instructions say not to use it even though my CRZ has a factory sub. Do I really not need to hook up the sub RCA?

Correct. The CRZ's sub is wired into the rear channel. The front channel is two speakers and two tweeters, the rear is two speakers and the sub.

> I bought a Maestro ADS-MSW for my steering wheel controls. What does the RR give you over the ADS-MSW? Just gauge information?

Just gauges AFAIK.

> The Maestro instructions say I need to splice into a green wire connected to the bluetooth HFL module behind my glovebox in order to use my steering wheel call and end call buttons. Did you do that? If so how difficult was it?

Yes. Very easy. You need to remove the panel under the glove box. It has clips at the top and tabs sit in slots at the back. Disconnect the floor light and put it aside. The HFL is between the passenger footwell and the outer shell of the car, toward the glove box. Disconnect the harness and tap the green wire. I'm using these for all the taps I did in the car. They are VERY easy, solderless and making great connections. Can't recommend them enough.

Also, make sure you have a dumb little grabber tool, like this. I bought mine at Home Depot for $2 while getting butt connectors and it made routing the wire for the HFL a breeze.

>Where did you place the Kenwood microphone in your CRZ?

If you look at the picture, you can see the Kenwood mic below my radio. The factory mic cannot be reused without great effort, and if you do wire it up it has no noise cancelling and sounds like shit. So don't.

You'll also notice a USB plug dangling down at the factory location. The factory USB can't be reused, and I didn't want to have the Kenwood USB line that is hard wired to the unit fished through anything, so here's what I did: I pulled the factory USB cable and its little grommet into the dash and zip tied it off so it doesn't bang around. Then, I ran a 3' Monoprice USB male/female extender cable through the hole the factory USB goes through and zip tied it secure inside the dash. This way, if it ever wears out I replace a $2 cable and not my $500 radio. This also has the benefit of making installation/removal of the radio really easy, which is already coming in handy as I prep to install a backup camera.

>How did you do the wiring? I've never soldered anything before and am thinking about buying some Posi-Twists and Posi-Taps to do all of this.

Positwists and taps are AWESOME, but they're also expensive. I'd recommend you pick up some 20 awg butt connectors or crimp caps (whichever) and a wire stripper/crimper tool just because they're cheap.

Here's what I did: I wired up my radio harness and anything else that was fairly mobile with butt connectors at my desk, making sure to tape off any wires I wasn't using so they were out of my way. Then, I saved my Posi connectors for the connections that HAVE to be made in the car (OBD2, the HFL cable, the ground wires)

>About the DDX9702S: How responsive is the touchscreen? I'm weary about the resistive screen but couldn't justify the $200+ to upgrade to the DDX9903S with capacitive screen.

It's great. It's obviously not a cap touch screen, but it's also not a Palm Pilot. It's responsive enough, precise enough, and all around "good enough" that I wouldn't spend the extra $200 either.

One more tip: When you're wiring this up, wire the parking brake sensor wire into your grounds. Do that and you can watch video while driving.

The following are the tools I used to add a new cable line for MoCA to an old room on my land:

​

*NOTE: THIS SETUP DOES NOT APPLY TO A FIOS SERVICE PROVIDER.*

​

(optional) MoCA POE Filter for Cable TV Coaxial Networking - This goes onto the incoming COAX Cable. Sometimes your provider does use the same frequency as the MoCA signal to manage with its devices. So This makes sure that your signal is safe to use, and doesn't interfere with your providers own management. This is optional because it depends on your layout. If you live in an apartment complex or area with multiple houses connected (wall to wall) , I HIGHLY recommend you purchase this to prevent your neighbors from receiving and possibly connecting to your network. You should connect this as follows: |Incoming COAX > MoCA POE Filter|

​

2-Way Coax Cable Splitter Bi-Directional MoCA - This allowed me to split my incoming cable so that I can reuse the same line leading to the outside of my house. You can also use it if all your lines are internal, but I digress. It allows you to split and connect multiple rooms (while being safe for MoCA signals). Ideally it goes: | Incoming COAX > MoCA POE Filter > MoCA Cable Splitter > Every room you want connected (including router) |

​

​

MOTOROLA MOCA Adapter for Ethernet Over Coax, 1,000 Mbps Bonded 2.0 - This is what you use to connect both ( or more) ends of the MoCA network. At the end of it all, this is how your network should look:

The internet comes into your house via | Incoming Coax > MoCA POE Filter > MoCA Cable Splitter > COAX Cable leading to MoCA Adapter > MoCA Adapter > Modem > Router (WAN port). |

​

At this point your router is connected to the internet. The connection to the rest of your house is a follows: | Router via LAN port > MoCA Adapter that's connecting to your Modem > MoCA signal travels down your internet Coax > returns to the MoCA Cable Splitter > Coax split from cable splitter, leading to other section of house > MoCA Adapter > Device or switch |

​

(optional) QUAD SHIELD SOLID COPPER 3GHZ RG-6 Coax Cable - I needed to order cable because the room I connected had no coax leading to it. If you need to buy cable, make sure you measure the distance away from the splitter, BASED ON the path you plan to lay the COAX cable on. Then add a few feet "just in case". If you don't need to run new cable, this is a non issue, and can be safely not purchased. Also, this particular cable was not pre-terminated, so I had to terminate and crimp the ends myself which may not be for everyone. Pre-made cables are available, albeit a bit more expensive.

​

(optional) Waterproof Connectors Crimping Tool - This is the tool I used to crimp my COAX cable. If you don't need to terminate your own cables, you don't need to buy this tool.

​

(optional) Rotary Drill Bit - I only needed this because I had to drill in from the outside (old house). You may also need to use this if you have to add a new hole in your wall, for a brand new coax connection. Needless to say, this is optional.

​

(optional) Coaxial Wall Plate - I used this to add the coax cable to my wall. It makes it look nice but isn't "technically" necessary. Use it as you see fit.

​

(optional) 3ft BLACK QUAD SHIELD SOLID COPPER 3GHZ RG-6 Coaxial Cable - This connects the coax wall plate to the branched off network (and devices) Use as you see fit.

​

*NOTE: THIS SETUP DOES NOT APPLY TO A FIOS SERVICE PROVIDER.*

​

If you have any questions, let me know. all the items I listed above can be swapped out for cheaper or more locally accessible items at will. Just be sure yo do your research first.

Sure. Here's the shopping list:

Project Box (5 pack, $5.80)

SMA Connectors (4 Pack, $5.85)

SMA Pigtails (Need 2, $4.85/ea)

SMA Extension Cable (Need 2, $8.50/ea) (3 feet)

RAM Suction Cup Mount ($15.99)

Start out by making four small pilot holes in the project box where you see both the connectors and antennas on mine.

Use the screws included with the RAM mount to go through the bottom left and top right corners of the bottom of the project box. This almost perfectly lines up with the holes in the suction cup, but make sure to use a template. You will not use the ball piece that comes with the suction cup.

Connect an SMA Female-Female connector on one end of each of the pigtails. Tighten with a wrench and pliers, but careful not to mess up the thread.

Enlarge the two holes on the small side of the project box to fit the female-female connectors (that you just attached) through, barely. Use generous hot glue to fix them in place on the inside, with the screw end from the SMA pigtail being pushed all the way up to the project box wall to allow as much of the connector to stick out as possible. Note, you may need to apply pressure to keep the connectors as straight and tight as possible until the glue cools/dries completley.

Take the other ends of the pigtail connectors (with the included nuts and other stuff) and put them through the other two holes on opposite long sides of the project box (Make sure you don't mix up left and right), enlarging the holes as necessary to ensure they fit. Use the included fittings to fix them in place firmly. (Use a wrench to tighten)

Stuff the pigtails in the project box, again verifying that you didn't mix up left and right. Close it up, connect the 3 foot SMA cables to the plugs on the bottom, and wire them into your Stratux. You should be good to go!

Photo

The biggest current issue with push-in connections is that they're only on the cheapest of devices. This means that homeowners will buy and attempt to install these devices incorrectly. Like 12AWG wire in a 14AWG push-in. Or not properly stripping and terminating the connection on a push in.

There are some great push-in connectors that are used on the market, like the Ideal In-Sure or the more common Wago connector.

The link you reference is for push-in connectors, not push-in connections on devices.

EDIT: I wanted to add, there are even better and faster connectors than the Wago/Ideal push-in connectors. The Wago Lever-nuts are amazing.

Also want to distinguish between push-in connections and push-in connectors (as far as the trade slang goes in my area, every area is different). Push-in connections will be on a device, like a receptacle or switch. Push-in connectors are those like that of Wago or Ideal. Separate from the device.

I apologize for being sloppy with my terminology during this discussion. I know I've interchanged connectors and connections where I shouldn't have.

Get a Tivo Premiere, a good antenna, a good signal amplifier, Some RG6 cable, a ground block, a crimp set with ends, an antenna mount, and antenna rotator. Put it all together and hook it to your home network.

What you will get:

Most of the OTA signals withing 50 miles of your home. (I currently receive 32 channels from OTA signals. a lot of them are duplicate ABC, NBC, CBS, PBS, CW, FOX stations from different cities but there are a lot more channels in there then I thought I'd get and surprisingly there's good stuff to watch half the time, especially for my kids)


A DVR that gives you a guide of upcoming shows that appear on the OTA channels you receive (there is no programing channels on your part), and lets you setup your season pass recordings for the shows you want off those channels.

If you have a Hulu Plus or Netflix subscription, the TiVo lets you access those from the comfort of your couch as well as youtube and Amazon.

From Amazon, you can rent newly released movies and TV shows and download them directly to your Tivo from anywhere (sometimes I buy shows at work and have them download before I get home) TV shows run anywhere from $1-$3 an episode and you can get most new episodes anywhere from 1-7 days after they air on traditional cable. However, a lot of stuff is available on Hulu or on the networks website for free eventually if you're not in a rush.

It's a steep initial investment and it requires dedication but once it's paid for itself and you only have the $15 monthly fee you'll be saving a ton of money (even if you're buying the occasional TV show you just have to watch) and you'll realize how much TV you can really do without.

If I was buying piecemeal, I would buy...

• FT-450D $750
  
• Pyramid 30amp switching psu ~$80
  
• DX-CC Fan Dipole $180
  
• 50' rg8x feedline $20
  
  total ~ $1030
  
  So youd save ~$200, but you also wouldnt be getting the LDG tuner ... which is likely where the cost difference is. IMO you dont need the LDG tuner, the built in ATU + fan dipole that is resonant on multiple bands will get you operating on 80,40,20,10 (and maybe even 6).
  
  Alternatively, you can build very simple 40/20 fan dipole for MUCH cheaper than the DX-CC (like ... $50?) so it really depends how much you want it to work "out of the box".
  
  FWIW i bought the dx-cc when i bought my first HF rig (an FT-897d) because I didnt want to mess with antenna stuff a ton before getting on the air. I've been very happy with it.
  
  
  
  edit:
  
  to clarify, I think you are better off spending money on an antenna than you are on a tuner.

There is no local place that I have found that sells the top quality stuff. I do macbook logicboard Repair’s. Phones and random crap as well. Microsoldering etc. Amazon is where I typically grab parts. Or if you wanna help out an awesome guy that has countless YouTube videos on repairing MacBooks http://store.rossmanngroup.com to buy like me the quick hot air station. Here’s a wire I use very very thin great for jumping bad vias

Remington Industries 44SNSP.125 Magnet Wire, Enameled Copper Wire Wound, 44 AWG, 2 oz, 9975' Length, 0.0022" Diameter, Natural https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076CB54ZR/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_NpvDDbAFK1ZHD

Great solder station. And then buy the micro pencil

Hakko Soldering Station, FX-951-66 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0012B8NW8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_OfvDDb1QAAF78

> And as a total newb on the hardware, what should I worry from the start? Should I put a metal base on the antenna that comes with it

Yes, that will definitely help.

> should I use a indoor TV atenna or make a new one?

While we always encourage people to make antennas, you can certainly use a TV antenna (preferably active/amplified), but you will require an "F Type female to SMA male" adapter. Be aware that the typical indoor TV antennas are mostly suited for UHF and not VHF operation so you will have better performance at 300-1000MHz than lower.

> Is there an easy way to start HF with it with not much hardware to buy? Any tips for a beginner with this model?

The V3 dongle has direct sampling support, so you can turn that on and off with SDR# (I'm not sure about the state of GQRX in this regard), you will need a significantly larger antenna mind you, but to start out: as much copper wire as you can get away with as high as possible. Many people just end up putting a loop of wire in the ceiling corners of their rooms for example.

Since you're on linux you will need the 'gqrx-sdr' and 'librtlsdr' packages.

I have a sliding door partition to separate the driving area from the rear. I'm able to VHB tape my Outdoor Antenna to my immediate right of my drivers side head rest looking straight out the window. Works great. If you have time warner cable in your area you'll be able to bum a friends or family login information and pickup hotspots all across the city.


I have the outdoor antenna wired from the front running to the rear by attaching a N Male to RP-SMA cable -----> high gain usb wifi adapter N150 works fine ------> using a usb extension cable connect laptop.



Also if you wanted to connect multiple devices you would want to look into hooking up a repeater to your external antenna. I was thinking about building a raspberry pie with a miniature lcd + connected to a router programmed for a repeater. I would be able to connect / program different wifi networks on the fly.....however my setup above works fine for me.

I'm no expert so take this for what it's worth.

I found the antenna is only a small piece of the puzzle. I've been using this PCB antenna indoors for the types of things you mentioned & found it works well.

What made a huge difference for me, with every antenna I tried, was getting the antenna away from the computer, HackRF, and other sources of noise with some quality coax. LMR-400 works well for me. Low quality coax just doesn't cut it.

I found my HackRF worked best with a short USB cable. Anything over a meter & the throughput would start to fall off. This may be more a byproduct of my specific hardware than anything else however. A ferrite core on the usb cable also helps keep the signal clean.

Thank you so much. I really appreciate it. Would like a few recordings? As in like, one in a silent room, one with a conversation going, one of a possible EVP? Anything in particular you want?

If you don't mind, what kind of setup do you have? I have just been using my PC with Audacity and these SteelSeries head phones. I used to have a Logitech G35 headset, but the speakers went out. Neither of those are ideal for listening to EVPs I reckon.

>I'm fairly ignorant of electric systems on boats.


I hope you're comfortable with how basic 12VDC electrics work and are asking about how to wire them in a marine environment.


Preface, I'm not a certified marine electrician but I've done a ton of work re-wiring, custom work on all kinds of sail and power boats.


Tools:
>I do have a cheap harbor freight multi-meter

good, now you're going to need a way to crimp those shitty connectors and some dielectric grease.


Unless of course you want to solder all your connections (this is my preference as it doesn't vibrate loose or corrode as quickly), then follow NASA's soldering method s and yuu'll need some rosin cored solder and and a soldering iron, you'll also need to use a crimp connector without the pre-molded shrink wrap and some heat shrink tubing


Ok... got your tools? great, now for supplies.


You'll need a buss bar on your ground


Measure how much wire you need, (are you re-wiring the mast?) and use 14/2 AWG marine grade wire.


If you're only using 1 battery you can get away with a simple switch like this. From the devices & lights you listed It sounds like you can use 10AWG to connect your battery to your switch then to the 14 gang panel.


You'll need a way to label your wires, I use one of these but if you're doing one job you might want to use something cheaper.

Ok... now on the to the fun part


Plan where you're going to mount your panel and pull a single RED 10AWG from there to your battery shut off switch and another strand from you battery to the switch.


Pull 10 AWG from the battery to the buss bar.


pull all the 14awg from the lights to the panel labeling each 14/2 wire as you go


red goes to the fuse block, black goes to the buss bar then to the negative on the gang block, label everything at the connection points, big red wire goes from battery switch to the bolt on the 14 gang, big black wire goes to the buss bar.


install new things, as each device is hooked up test the fuse and switch, then install the new thing.

Edit: I forgot to mention, use dielectric grease on all metal fittings to reduce corrosion.


edit 1: put a fuse between your battery and shut off ont the red wire

I'm using Cree CXB 2540's @ 3000K since i wanted better distribution and thought 3590's would be overkill (what people typically go with). Used a heatsink like this to mount each LED (with Ideal chip-lok holder, tapped two holes at 3mm and used some thermal paste) and then just wired them up to a driver using some wago connectors.

Hope that helps :)

I would like to get a proper commercial modem + router, but what works well for me is:

• MR200 Modem/Router
  
• Very Decent Omni Mimo Antenna
  
• Antenna Cable Extension so I can window/exterior mount
  
  I also use a Ubiquiti UAP-AC-LR WAP for very very good wireless coverage, proper guest network etc.
  
  I know the feels on the ADSL2, we only got ADSL2+ in July or something and it deffo helped.

Not sure if you are wanting help with homebrew antennas, or help setting up commercial antennas...but if it's homebrew:

Start simple. You'll need a cordless drill and a hacksaw.

Look at your closest Home Depot or Lowes, and check it out for antenna building materials. Gauge 12 or 10 solid electrical wire? Perfect for temporary UHF dipoles or quarter wave groundplane antennas. Flat bar aluminum 1/4"x1/8"? Good for permanent VHF/UHF antennas.

Plastic HDPE cutting boards? It's not a cutting board, it's substrate for mounting antennas, just cut-to-size with a hacksaw.

You will need SMA-BNC adapters for your Baofeng, some ferrite cores (material 61 for VHF, 43 for HF) for chokes and current baluns.

Get an assortment of small machine screws at varying lengths for mounting the radiators and radials.

For 2m and UHF, get a cheap tripod from Amazon as a starting mount for experimenting.

https://www.amazon.ca/AmazonBasics-60-Inch-Lightweight-Tripod-Bag/dp/B005KP473Q/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=tripod&qid=1564085987&s=gateway&sr=8-3

Get small U-bolts for mounting the antenna to a pole or to the tripod. If you don't want to go too high, some PVC water pipe (sturdy 600PSI, not 200) will work as a semi-permanent pole.

You'll need an SWR meter:

https://www.amazon.ca/Signstek-Professional-Standing-Wave-Meter-Testing/dp/B00GNVJ8IU/ref=pd_sbs_504_11?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00GNVJ8IU&pd_rd_r=7cc9688c-285e-4f7e-8dc1-65e94cc1f1e7&pd_rd_w=tIvyt&pd_rd_wg=KaphE&pf_rd_p=5dcda75b-8643-4da3-9bb1-5c0233790500&pf_rd_r=B74WZVNRQY8XFYZ505AE&psc=1&refRID=B74WZVNRQY8XFYZ505AE

And if you want to do HF, an antenna analyzer (shockingly, these cheap chinese MR100 copies usually work ok):

https://www.amazon.ca/Digital-Shortwave-Antenna-Analyzer-Transparent/dp/B07NRXP85M/ref=sr_1_7?crid=12ERBWHIRZNIU&keywords=antenna+analyzer&qid=1564087191&s=gateway&sprefix=antenna+an%2Celectronics%2C195&sr=8-7

The most common cable is RG58. It's not ideal for UHF, but it'll do, it's flexible, and is easily crimped.

https://www.amazon.ca/Amphenol-CO-058BNCX200-012-Black-Coaxial-Cable/dp/B00O070EQO/ref=pd_sbs_23_3/144-3394476-5564231?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00O070EQO&pd_rd_r=5bbbd7a4-9094-48c1-9d14-b06629b85e12&pd_rd_w=JH7VS&pd_rd_wg=NxPFW&pf_rd_p=5dcda75b-8643-4da3-9bb1-5c0233790500&pf_rd_r=MQJGSGEZ577KF8KSYEGV&psc=1&refRID=MQJGSGEZ577KF8KSYEGV

And here are some other links that should give you ideas:

https://rsgb.org/main/get-started-in-amateur-radio/antennas/your-first-antenna-the-half-wave-dipole/

https://m0ukd.com/calculators/quarter-wave-ground-plane-antenna-calculator/

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/J-pole_antenna

https://palomar-engineers.com/tech-support/tech-topics/best-hf-end-fed-antenna

https://www.w8ji.com/end-fed_1_2_wave_matching_system_end%20feed.htm

http://www.hbphoto.com/Radio/Baluns_101.pdf

https://www.qsl.net/dk7zb/Baluns/current_balun.htm

Which is fine and will not do anything as it is low current, but at a minimum use electrical tape. There are other more elegant methods for splicing wire, especially if this is for a more permanent project.

https://www.google.com/search?q=electrical+tape&ie=UTF-8&oe=UTF-8&hl=en-gb&client=safari

More automotive
https://www.google.com/shopping/product/623984457746271647?q=cable+splicing&client=safari&sa=X&hl=en-gb&biw=375&bih=635&tbs=vw:l,ss:44&prmd=ivsn&prds=epd:7823994953863952130,paur:ClkAsKraX1mene0YGyTxx58RAGbiwUnKoGucAcmGYhntkT48SNcUDhn7FohnR-Sq6Ow_YtxpigxBycUlgDuO1ffryHIbBYLEpOdp5kPAXcQPFDaaEWai79bKbxIZAFPVH7111uVAG5ELq5m8nBs1HJDo2Y_BhQ,cdl:1,prmr:1,cs:1&ved=0ahUKEwiZqILkhcreAhUDrYMKHX8bDUYQgTYIxQQ


These are more permanent style, scroll down they have a few different styles.

https://www.amazon.com/Wago-222-412-LEVER-NUTS-Conductor-Connectors/dp/B07CNKLZPQ

Using a bread board is also a good method for short term testing.

https://www.google.com/search?q=breadboard+kit&ie=UTF-8&oe=UTF-8&hl=en-gb&client=safari

Sure, so if you aren't concerned about looks and you just want to get one type of wire and conserve cost I'd recommend this

If you want to match something similar to what I've done here, I used this for the leads and this for the columns. If you decide to go with the tiny wire I used, you are going to want to make sure you have a set of wire strippers that is designed to work with 30 AWG wire like these

I bought two of these 1 meter cables to replace the ones it came with: https://www.amazon.com/Uxcell-Connector-Ribbon-Cable-Female/dp/B01IS1N5KY/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?keywords=10+pins+idc+cable&qid=1567514099&s=gateway&sr=8-4

Note that many of these cables have the ribbon reversed on each side. If you get a cable like this just trim off the alignment notch with some wire cutters on one side and insert it upside down. Mine were like this and it worked great.

Not exactly cheap, but Wago lever-nuts work great for stranded and solid.

https://www.amazon.com/222-413-LEVER-NUTS-Conductor-Compact-Connectors/dp/B000JJPA66

Extending the cables to the left/right speakers is easy, any regular speaker wire is fine. To join together permanently I'd solder the new wire on and heatshrink. Or for removable I'd use spring connectors like this https://www.amazon.com/Wago-222-412-LEVER-NUTS-Conductor-Connectors/dp/B00HIOP6SC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1503640678&sr=8-1&keywords=wago+connector

i've had this problem many times.

its almost certainly that your wires are making intermittent contact. i've had to replace my bed sensor wiring and power wiring about 4 times.

once however my actual temp sensor cracked in half and i had to replace it with a 100k thermistor.

https://www.amazon.com/Gikfun-Thermistor-Temperature-Sensor-Printer/dp/B018QL5LPI/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1481397650&sr=8-4&keywords=100k+thermistor
here are the thermistors and as for the wiring, if thats what it turns out to be(most likely is)

sensor wiring
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01708AYYQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

power wiring
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00TG1TRL2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

i also recommend using https://www.amazon.com/Wago-222-412-LEVER-NUTS-Conductor-Connectors/dp/B00HIOP6SC/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1481397789&sr=8-5&keywords=wago+connector

for the wiring inside the unit, so that your wiring can be replaced easily without buying a new wiring harness.

Recently finished building some cables for my newly renovated cinema room and wanted to share the process with you guys in case anyone was looking for a super simple (but still high quality) cable build on the cheap.

[EDIT] Here's a link to the various parts used in this build:

• Mediabridge 14/2 Direct Burial CCA wire
  
• Techflex 3/8 inch Nylon Multi-Filament sleeving
  
• Monoprice Affinity Series banana plugs
  
• Parts Express 8mm 2-conductor cable pants
  
  Keep in mind, if you are using different speaker wire, sizes needed for some of these parts are likely going to be slightly different.
  
  Additional tools that will make things easier:
  
  
• Single-action wire stripper (traditional works too)
  
• Electrician shears or hot knife (for cutting nylon sleeving)
  
• Heat gun (for shrink wrap)

Check out this site. There's a good photo illustration of the right way to safely connect stranded and non-stranded wires.
https://www.familyhandyman.com/electrical/wiring/how-to-make-safe-wire-nut-connections/view-all/

Or just buy some wago connectors: https://www.amazon.com/Wago-222-413-LEVER-NUTS-Conductor-Connectors/dp/B000JJPA66/

Very nice, clean look. All it needs are some cable pants to finish the look.
https://www.amazon.com/Parts-Express-Cable-Pants-2-Conductor/dp/B0009XQPFC

ah yea, it most likely wont work very well, radios rely on the 50 ohm cables.

you'll prolly want some of this, its what i use for my cb radio, its nice coax :)

https://www.amazon.com/Steren-205-750-50-Feet-UHF-UHF-Mini-RG8x/dp/B004EFNHXE/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1505360711&sr=8-3&keywords=rg8x

Nice! That looks like it and relatively cheap.

http://www.amazon.com/coaxial-cable-SO239-female-connector/dp/B00C20FV78/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1425492821&sr=8-4&keywords=MCX+connector

I highly recommend you just read through this page on powering single COB led lights. Even if you have only a little bit of technical know how you can do it. Then build a light using this LED, bought with a discount code, Growmau5. Then mount it to this if you don't have a way to drill and tap this instead.

^If ^you ^go ^with ^the ^drilling ^and ^tapping ^you'll ^need ^an ^old ^cell ^phone ^charger ^to ^power ^the ^fan, ^but ^it's ^more ^compact.

That LED can be powered by this driver at about 2800mA for a nice 100 watt light under 100$.

Edit: Oh and an old power cord and these to put it all together.

I know these have amazon aff links. Shop around for cheaper :) But this is what I bought.

http://www.amazon.com/coaxial-cable-SO239-female-connector/dp/B00C20FV78/ref=pd_bxgy_pc_img_y
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CCQMTCM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The RTL-SDR was $9 when I bought it. Dont buy from this guy any more. But this is the equipment I bought.

http://i.imgur.com/8vAiGxn.jpg

In fact, a large part of the exposed board is the ground plane (where "IC1-C1" is silkscreened...that's a ground pour).

Connect a pigtail like this, snip off the male end, and solder the inside lead to where i labeled "center pin" and the outer sheath to any of the ground pads. Epoxy over the joints to strengthen the solder joints.

Honestly, that's sort of my biggest hangup. I don't even own a soldering iron, and if I get one, I'll need to practice on junk electronics before I try to do something I can use. I do have a bunch of these though.

https://www.amazon.com/Wago-222-412-LEVER-NUTS-Conductor-Connectors/dp/B00HIOP6SC/ref=lp_16347583011_1_1?srs=16347583011&ie=UTF8&qid=1499343102&sr=8-1

I don't use them for the same reasons you've stated. I prefer using the regular wire nuts, I've seen these and they look similar but more secure and maybe smaller than a large wire nut.

It is a little connector, think of it like the cable that would go from your wall to your cable box. It is tiny here is a link to one: http://www.amazon.com/uxcell®-Female-Bulkhead-Jumper-Pigtail/dp/B007POCIM2/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1462316944&sr=8-2&keywords=Pigtail+Sma

That one is a bit long you want 3-6cm

To connect a yagi antenna or other anntena to a wifi card you's need a cable like this.

Lockitt POSI-TAP 6 pack wire connectors 20-22 awg https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001MPW54G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_NrBExbRF1T086


If that's too invasive you could put a Hall effect sensor around a wire and a microcontroller to monitor a change in current draw. Seems like more work than needed though.

I'm really happy with this. I made a bracket (STL). This allowed me to do the SKR 1.3 without modifying any cables, but I suggest buying a longer display cable and printing the largest bracket (here) and cable clips. More pictures at the thingiverse link for the bracket that I made.

Is the audio jack of your PC loose? Can if you keep the plug steady, while bending only the cable, do you notice the explained issue? If so it's a broken cable. The cheapest fix would be to get another plug (better cable+plug), cut the old cable and attach the other end to it. If you don't want to do any soldering, something like this would be the easiest way to connect the wires.

I used a POSI-TAP and would highly recommend it. Seriously takes a couple minutes.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001MPW54G/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Get some red and black 16/2 wire and some wago lever connectors

Wire
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07RRPFL3Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_mQt4DbBHM3DS3

Wagos https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CNKLZPQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_KRt4Db5C91AA5

https://www.amazon.com/Wago-222-413-LEVER-NUTS-Conductor-Connectors/dp/B000JJPA66

How about Wagos?

> non avrei le conoscenze necessarie.

Meglio così va :D

Comunque se il wifi non prende DENTRO, magari riesci a farlo prendere FUORI.

Come?

Con questo: https://www.amazon.it/ANEWKODI-Adattatore-Amovibile-Compatibile-10-4-10-12-1/dp/B06WWHH29Y

Più questo: https://www.amazon.it/TP-Link-TL-ANT24EC5S-Cavo-Prolunga-Antenna/dp/B001BSK3NO

O comunque prodotti analoghi: hai bisogno di un dongle wifi e di un cavo di prolunga per l'antenna che andrai a posizionare FUORI dalla finestra... lì sperabilmente dovresti avere una ricezione buona, ovviamente ammesso e non concesso che tu riesca a farti dare l'accesso alla rete da qualche vicino.

Il costo comunque è contenuto, anche con prodotti di marca non superi i 25€.

This is what I bought and the connectors are smaller than that of the regular antenna's connectors. The antenna's connectors are the same size as that you'd find on your modem or cable box. Is there not a m/f extension cable for what you'd normally plug from your wall to modem?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001BSK3NO/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

You can hook up your trailer wiring to the 12v output under the rear seat (many threads in Tesla forums about connecting to this for aftermarket sound systems). I used POSI-TAP connectors to tap into the tail light wiring (see https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B001MPW54G ). The tail light wire colors are as follows:
Passenger side: red=turn, yellow=lights, grey=brakes
Driver side: purple=turn, pink=lights, grey=brakes


This is the specific wiring kit that I used for my car https://www.etrailer.com/Wiring/Tekonsha/119190KIT.html

I was about to blindly post the compilation link until I read you mentioned it. Yes, that's what you need to get going. Knowledge!

Here's my get-up-and-go guide:

You'll need a dongle, a PC, SDR# and Zadig drivers and install instructions, and an antenna...yes an "antenna" comes with the package, but you'll find out it's absolutely awful. You can build your own or buy. You'll need coaxial cable, and an adapter to connect the cable to the dongle.

Put the antenna outside, install hardware, software, play.

Not very likely you are going to find a premade "Y" pigtail connector to parallel 2 sets.

Probably going to have to cut and splice the wires. These are Ni-Mh, so no worry about balancing and over discharging as would be the case with Li-Ion batteries.

Splices

Nice shelves. Wiring is no more scary than a circular saw. Also, forgo the wirenuts and use lever locks instead. http://www.amazon.com/Wago-222-412-LEVER-NUTS-Conductor-Connectors/dp/B00HIOP6SC/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1395775496