Reddit mentions: The best masonry drill bits

The following are the tools I used to add a new cable line for MoCA to an old room on my land:

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*NOTE: THIS SETUP DOES NOT APPLY TO A FIOS SERVICE PROVIDER.*

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(optional) MoCA POE Filter for Cable TV Coaxial Networking - This goes onto the incoming COAX Cable. Sometimes your provider does use the same frequency as the MoCA signal to manage with its devices. So This makes sure that your signal is safe to use, and doesn't interfere with your providers own management. This is optional because it depends on your layout. If you live in an apartment complex or area with multiple houses connected (wall to wall) , I HIGHLY recommend you purchase this to prevent your neighbors from receiving and possibly connecting to your network. You should connect this as follows: |Incoming COAX > MoCA POE Filter|

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2-Way Coax Cable Splitter Bi-Directional MoCA - This allowed me to split my incoming cable so that I can reuse the same line leading to the outside of my house. You can also use it if all your lines are internal, but I digress. It allows you to split and connect multiple rooms (while being safe for MoCA signals). Ideally it goes: | Incoming COAX > MoCA POE Filter > MoCA Cable Splitter > Every room you want connected (including router) |

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MOTOROLA MOCA Adapter for Ethernet Over Coax, 1,000 Mbps Bonded 2.0 - This is what you use to connect both ( or more) ends of the MoCA network. At the end of it all, this is how your network should look:

The internet comes into your house via | Incoming Coax > MoCA POE Filter > MoCA Cable Splitter > COAX Cable leading to MoCA Adapter > MoCA Adapter > Modem > Router (WAN port). |

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At this point your router is connected to the internet. The connection to the rest of your house is a follows: | Router via LAN port > MoCA Adapter that's connecting to your Modem > MoCA signal travels down your internet Coax > returns to the MoCA Cable Splitter > Coax split from cable splitter, leading to other section of house > MoCA Adapter > Device or switch |

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(optional) QUAD SHIELD SOLID COPPER 3GHZ RG-6 Coax Cable - I needed to order cable because the room I connected had no coax leading to it. If you need to buy cable, make sure you measure the distance away from the splitter, BASED ON the path you plan to lay the COAX cable on. Then add a few feet "just in case". If you don't need to run new cable, this is a non issue, and can be safely not purchased. Also, this particular cable was not pre-terminated, so I had to terminate and crimp the ends myself which may not be for everyone. Pre-made cables are available, albeit a bit more expensive.

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(optional) Waterproof Connectors Crimping Tool - This is the tool I used to crimp my COAX cable. If you don't need to terminate your own cables, you don't need to buy this tool.

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(optional) Rotary Drill Bit - I only needed this because I had to drill in from the outside (old house). You may also need to use this if you have to add a new hole in your wall, for a brand new coax connection. Needless to say, this is optional.

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(optional) Coaxial Wall Plate - I used this to add the coax cable to my wall. It makes it look nice but isn't "technically" necessary. Use it as you see fit.

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(optional) 3ft BLACK QUAD SHIELD SOLID COPPER 3GHZ RG-6 Coaxial Cable - This connects the coax wall plate to the branched off network (and devices) Use as you see fit.

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*NOTE: THIS SETUP DOES NOT APPLY TO A FIOS SERVICE PROVIDER.*

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If you have any questions, let me know. all the items I listed above can be swapped out for cheaper or more locally accessible items at will. Just be sure yo do your research first.

that's a pretty legit list right there. I have a trunk full of gear, probably worth almost as much as my car. I do a lot of contract work, so my list is pretty much the same just slightly beefed up.

• I have a basic tech kit from Amazon
  
• I have a buttset Sometimes reffered to as a linemans set.
  
• About 10 of these Floating around my car/trunk/tool bags and person. because i like to lose things lol
  
• A Basic cable tester
  
• This Cable mapper
  
• Coax crimper (For tv, and bnc)
  
• Crimp Kit
  
• I buy these Like candy, they're perfect for ISO's for giving to customers with instructions and/or iso's just perfect in general for a lot of things.
  
• Stinger Flash light Serves double duty as a i'm a volunteer first and second responder
  
• Cable stripper
  
  Replenishables
  
  
• I Keep at least 50 of these on hand
  
• rg59 tips (CCTV BNC Tips)
  
• RG6 tips (Cable TV)
  
• RJ45 tips (A mason jar filled with about 60-100)
  
• at minimum of box of cat5 Sometimes up to three boxes. i will have a job soon that will require six of them lol.
  
• Patch Cables 3f and 5ft usually at minimum 10 of each
  
• zip ties (Usually three containers of 500 of assorted sizes)
  
• White 2 4 and 6 port keystone faceplates
  
• White keystone blanks
  
• low voltage mounting brackets
  
• white 1 and 2 port surface mount boxes
  
• some hdmi cables (Usually just 4 or 5 of these)
  
• electrical tape (5 50' rolls of different color) for many things
  
• Pull string
  
• dikes (Not really but they dissappear so fast they feel like it) like These
  
• I actually keep two label makers
  
• Rolls of 8 inch velcro ties
  
  contractor things
  
  
• Step bits
  
• Paddle bits
  
• Hole Saw Kit
  
• Masonry bits
  
• Caulk gun
  
• caulk
  
• grommets
  
• Ladder
  
• First aid kit
  
• 150' Fish tape
  
• An 18V Cordless DeWalt Hammer Drill
  
• Regular drill bits
  
  
  
• I use these to organize my laptop bag (win surface pro with usb to rj45 adapter, usb to db9 adapter, console cable, lan cable, wifi hotspot, anker battery pack, 500gb usb hard drive etc)
  
• I use these bags to organize everything
  
  and a myriad of other small parts pertaining to surveillance system installs, and screw bits for my drill, and i even have secured walkies for when i have multiple employees on site. plus i have to admit bluetooth headsets for when i have to deal with helpdesks or tech support while i'm on site... did i mention i do a lottttt of contract work. i'm all over the place. every now and then i run into things that this kit can't handle but for the most part i come away with a rather professional look.
  
  sorry for formatting, i've seen plenty of these posts this is the first time i took time to actually look up evrything i've purchased.
  
  Edit: Some formatting. added velcro :P

How to make a bong out of a Hennessy bottle:

1/5th bottles seem to work best. Get a bottle, wash it out, and set aside.

Go to a smoke shop and ask for a downstem and bowl piece. Ideally the down stem will be about 6” long. You can go longer/shorter depending on the angle your hole is made at.

Once you have your downstem, take a tape measure and measure the OSD of the glass. (Outside diameter. In my case the OSD was a hair over 1/2”, so I used a 5/8” drill bit)

Once you know the OSD of the downstem, you’ll need to go to the hardware store and get a drill bit that is at least 1mm larger than the OSD of your downstem. You need a special carbide (or diamond in some cases, ymmv depending on where you go to get the bit) drill bit that is intended for going through glass. They look a bit like this.

Drill your hole. ALWAYS WET DRILL GLASS. Always. Do it in your sink with the water running, and drill at about half-speed. It will take some time to get through the glass. The angle you hold your drill at will determine where and how the downstem sits in the bottle. About a 45 degree angle on the glass where I put my downstem works well.

Once the hole is made, rise the bottle out very well, and dry the outside. Put your downstem in the hole, and use some putty to make the air seal.

Pack a bowl, and enjoy 🙂

I've done a few chimney's before order yourself this and this. The hammer drill has a setting to use it like a mini jackhammer this will allow you to pop the bricks out one at a time. Go buy a big canvas drop cloth (tarps just seem to tear) and put it on the grass. Set up some scaffolding (you can rent this for just a few bucks a day) but make sure to place it in a way that if the chimney were to fall (super unlikely) it won't take you with it. If you want to do it the easy way go rent a manlift.

Honestly a chimney like this is probably only only about 2 or 3 hours of demo and the clean up time will depend on what you have to haul the bricks away. If you have a truck that will tow it go rent a dump trailer. You can then just haul them to the local dump and dispose of them as construction demo (usually pretty cheap). And with the dump trailer you don't need to unload them.

If you get a couple of guys to help you (I shouldn't have to say this but don't let them load while you toss) you could pull it off in a day easily. I did a 3 story chimney with my FIL a few years ago that was in the middle of the house, so we had to use buckets to haul out the bricks and we sill pulled it off by late afternoon.

Get yourself some masonary bits for your drill, mine were about 15$ on amazon. hit the thrift shop/yard sales etc. anything you like can be a pot. shallow pots are better than deeper for succs. i use egg cups, candy dishes, cannisters sets, flower bowls, serving dishes, soup bowls, etc. your choices are endless and it is a way cheaper option, especially if you have 50 or 60 of these things like i do. i also got glass bits for my drill and so have some really pretty glass pots as well.

if you want a store option, terra cotta pots are cheap and you can find them in any big store like walmart etc. sometimes the thrift shop has those too...and if they are a bit grungy, i wash them really good with soapy water to ensure no parasites, let dry then use a sanding block to sand away the grime or discolouration.

if your succs can stay outdoors, you can use concrete blocks (or make concrete pots). drift wood etc.

edited to add some links/info.

EDIT Again! here are some of the great pots i've thrifted and drilled. https://imgur.com/a/4ztbWmn

straight fluted easy out.. a set of tap sockets.. tap sockets are specials for use with threading taps.. there is a chance one will fit the straight fluted easy out..

https://www.amazon.com/Irwin-Tools-53645-Straight-Extractors/dp/B001MXRPXY

https://www.amazon.com/CTA-Tools-9030-Extractor-5-Piece/dp/B00IYTFSM4?ref_=ast_bbp_dp

https://www.amazon.com/Vermont-American-21872-Straight-Extractor/dp/B000CEMSHM?ref_=ast_bbp_dp

tap sockets... https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-70500-Tap-Socket-Set/dp/B0002SRFOE/

so you can get a socket on it way down the spark plug hole..

chances are somebody cross threaded the spark plug and just cranked it in till it almost broke.. or you exerted enough force when it seized taking it out.. that you snapped the spark plug in half.

hmm, that thin of a bit, a normal hammer drill might do you. A rotary hammer will put too much of a beating on a flexy- 1/4 inch bit, thats a thin bit.

You need this bit: http://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DW5417-6-Inch-Carbide-Hammer/dp/B0000224YO or an equivalent

www.amazon.com/Makita-D-00876-25-4-Inch-Standard-25-Pack/dp/B001MXBTTU/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1377105635&sr=8-9&keywords=1%2F4+inch+sds+bit

And an SDS/SDS+ rotary hammer, 1/4 inch is a pretty small bit and doesnt come in SDS-max to the best of my knowledge.

Id recommend getting this for 60 bucks (20% coupon) and using it until it dies. You can pay 250 for a "better" brand, but honestly I have this rotary hammer, and ive put a lot of 1+ inch holes in concrete with it and its still running like a champ. To give you an example of what it takes to drill a much much larger hole, i was drilling 1 inch 12 inch deep holes in about a minute a piece. Your holes will probably be 10 seconds or less a piece.

http://www.harborfreight.com/10-amp-3-in-1-1-18-variable-speed-sds-rotary-hammer-69274.html

I am sure there are other ways but I use carbide glass drill bits. They are a bit pricey ( 10-20 dollars USD depending on the size at home depot), but they do a really good job and are designed to cut glass so you have less of a chance of cracking it. There are cheaper sets out there on Amazon but I have found you have to replace them much more frequently and they just don't hold up as well.

hope that helps!

Get a screw extractor set from Amazon. Just make sure to get one that comes with left hand drill bits. You can often get the screw out just with the left hand bits before even needing to use the extractor.

This is a good kit if you want a variety of sizes for anything like this in the future:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002NYBH8/

Thanks for the info! I think the foamboard adhesive is PL 300 from Loctite, but Lowe's also has something called Loctite Power Grab which is also supposedly safe for foamboard. I'll probably go with the PL 300 because that's what I've read about the most.

I'm thinking about taking a hammer and chisel (or rotary hammer w/ chisel bit?) to knock down some of those rough areas. There are just so. freaking. many. hahah I was also planning to brace the foam against the wall with 2x4's. I've contemplated, but really don't want to spend the money, using a couple of these on each sheet of XPS, too.

https://www.amazon.com/Plastic-Masonry-Fastener-250-pcs/dp/B00IMG3L4G/ref=sr_1_fkmr2_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1525786070&sr=8-1-fkmr2&keywords=foam+board+masonry+clips

I was a little worried about condensation forming between the foam and the concrete if there were voids, but I suppose as long as there is a good seal around the perimeter of the foam that's the main thing.

Thanks again!

Something like this might help. I know how small that roll pin must be, but I am not certain one of these tools will be small enough for the job. Might be worth it, though. Otherwise, a trip to a professional gunsmith might be in order. Good luck!

here's one of the higher rated sets on amazon and seems like a good place to start

Edit-fixed the link! 😊

Got a picture? Maybe a left hand drill bit along with a screw extractor bit, if you have room?

Something like this: http://www.amazon.com/Irwin-Industrial-11119-Extractors-10-Piece/dp/B0002NYBH8 (but they do make better ones out there too)

You could use something like this kit, i have one and it very useful. Just make sure you measure your binding post size and cross check to see if this kit comes with the size you need.

IRWIN Tools Hanson Spiral Extractor and Drill Bit Set, 10 Piece, 11119 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002NYBH8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_CPgQBb1RK76C6

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002NYBH8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_eCy4Cb467MDW6

I like these kinds of kits, I have one like this (not sure which brand). Those reverse drill bits sometimes work better than the extractors.

Yeah that hole doesn't look too good TBH. Hopefully it didn't damage the threads. The smallest one in the kit I showed you has a minimum of 2.5mm but it should still work on the 2mm screw. You can also find a spare 2mm allen key you don't need and use the strongest Gorilla glue you can find and glue it onto the screw. Slowly try to unscrew it after an hour or so. Take it to your LBS and see if they can help. There's also this which goes as low as M3

Edit. Just looked at the other angle pic you posted. Screw extractor most likely won't work. Try the allen key method.

Bosch GT2000 Glass and Tile Set, 4-Piece https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001GNC8RI/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_v3S2tb0A3PR1RZD3

OK, I think the one I have like this is "carbide". I guess they mean tungsten carbide?

You drill into it with a reverse (left handed) drillbit, running your drill in reverse. That will probably bring the bolt out, but if it doesn't you use an Easy Out screw extractor to screw it out. Here is a kit with both left handed bits and extractors. You can get individual tools at a local hardware store. Soak it well wit PB Blaster first.

Every shop or serious mechanic should buy this set. It has saved me so much time and money dozens of times. Just go slow with carbide cobalt drill bits, they shatter easily.

Get the tools in the picture. They're great, and relatively cheap.

> carbide masonry bit

Did you get a pointed one (like this or a regular one like this)? So many cool pots have no drainage holes.

A few things to look at.


If you already have a drill you need to know what kind of drill bits it will accept.


These have a 1/4" hex that basically any drill will take: Drill Bit 1

Where these are a smooth cylinder meaning you'll need a drill that can clamp down on them: Drill Bit 2


You don't really need an anchor if you use something like these, but they are likely over kill: Concrete Screw


If you are just hanging pictures or something light this might be a good option: Full Set


Lastly, a drill that has the hammer function would help greatly but isn't required.

Depends. What are you trying to hang? Also what is the wall surface made of?

If you're talking bare concrete walls, you'll have to moisture seal them before the 3M stuff will work reliably. For hanging smallish stuff 3M is your best bet.

If you have painted concrete walls try scuff sanding the paint with a 100 grit sandpaper, then wiping away any paint dust with 99% isopropyl alcohol and a dry cloth. This will help your command strips grab hold of the paint. Some glossy paints are just about impervious to adhesive without this step.

If you're hanging something like lighting, or heavy pictures, you'll want to HILTI/Ramset the anchors into the wall. These take a little know-how to use, but basically you're firing a nail out of a gun at a concrete wall.

If you want to hang your TV on the wall, I'd suggest a hammer drill and a carbide masonry bit. If you need the holding power there isn't an option here. You'll also need a shop vac to keep the hole you're drilling clear. This is slow, tedious, work.

I've had success extracting a broken bolt with this kit: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002NYBH8/

I'm sure any similar product will work.

There are special drill bits designed to drill through ceramic. I bought these: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001GNC8RI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Ev8FybXJ3YC1D

I like this set, all the extractors come with a matching left handed drill bit.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002NYBH8/

Looks like you need a smoothing air hammer bit (or w.e it's called)

https://www.amazon.com/Smoothing-Pneumatic-Hammer-Diameter-Extended/dp/B00PIF0KVG

Use a bit like this (along with face shield, a mask, and long sleeves and gloves), and those should pop up quickly:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01I0HHGQA

https://www.amazon.com/Plastic-Masonry-Fastener-250-pcs/dp/B00IMG3L4G
I like these personally, and using a hammer drill with a 1/4 bit goes very fast

Just go but an easy out set.
IRWIN Screw Extractor/ Drill Bit Set, 10-Piece (11119) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002NYBH8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_GK.BDb32A3JAT

This might be a better set.

8 piece Screw Extractor Set,Damaged Screw Broken Bolt Water Pipe Remover Set By Nizzco https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075TY8Y87/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_m0.BDbDKJD770

I own this set, http://www.irwin.com/tools/screw-bolt-extractors/10-pc-spiral-extractor-drill-bit-set-in-metal-index / https://www.amazon.com/Irwin-HANSON-Spiral-Extractor-11119/dp/B0002NYBH8/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1521322834&sr=8-3&keywords=irwin+screw+extractor+set&dpID=410DHljAW2L&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

and have used it once or twice. What I like about this one is the left handed drill bits. When you use the drill bit to round out the screw head, the left handed drill bits might just grab the screw and unscrew it for you.

5 Piece Concrete Drill Bit Set,... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FDHDZ3T?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Have water running over the drill bit during the process. Prevents blowouts and extends life of bit.

Start the drill slowly and move up to a higher speed but don’t squeeze the trigger all the way on your drill. Don’t use an impact driver.

I have these Irwin left handed bit/extractor set. I generally end up using them for all kinds of holes, even when it's not a bolt or I'm not trying to extract it, they just seem to cut really well, especially at the price point. I think lowes or home depot carries them too.

Or is this closer to what you're thinking?:

https://www.amazon.com/Kwokker-Tungsten-Triangle-Professional-Concrete/dp/B07QZRLD4L/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=tungsten+masonry+drill+bit&qid=1562896098&refinements=p_n_feature_seven_browse-bin%3A5485872011&rnid=3071213011&s=gateway&sr=8-3

1/2" masonry bit Check this out at Amazon.com
Bosch LBH010 1/2 x 6 Round Hammer Drill Bit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ZHV74I8/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_i_IiMRDbDRARF04

1/2" SDS Check this out at Amazon.com
Bosch HC2081 1/2 In. x 6 In. SDS-plus Bulldog Rotary Hammer Bit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0009H5GHQ/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_i_dkMRDb9XRA1TZ

Rotary hammer

I think maybe it's this one

I've used these to drill through glass and tile. Take your time and they get the job done. Its only four holes after all.

I use a DeWalt case that has compartments. It came with a masonry drill bit set. It's slightly larger than the one you have but it has locking compartments.
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=https://www.amazon.ca/DEWALT-DW5205-Percussion-Tough-5-Pieces/dp/B000R92I0E&ved=2ahUKEwjX2qfItbnhAhVs0YMKHYOZDwgQFjAAegQIAhAB&usg=AOvVaw2r-qjYBNhehW0H_AMTxM03

You ain't a tech unless you have one of these in your box - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000EEX644/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.ca/Irwin-Industrial-11119-Extractors-10-Piece/dp/B0002NYBH8/ref=asc_df_B0002NYBH8/?tag=googlemobshop-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=292995173425&hvpos=1o2&hvnetw=g&hvrand=13370702493849758587&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9000649&hvtargid=pla-613176131032&psc=1

http://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DW5207-7-Piece-Premium-Percussion/dp/B00004RHBF/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1419345770&sr=8-5&keywords=Rock+Drill+Bits

General outline straight cuts using a wet tile saw, then use tile snippers for countouring.
There's a lot of options for drilling the holes.

This is what you're looking for, screw extractors. Cut the head flat, center punch, drill out, then use the left handed extractor bit to remove the bolt

I did this to a valve cover bolt or two, over tightening them to avoid leaks. It sucks, but it happens. These solve the problem.

Note: some WD-40/penetrating oil and heat can make the process go easier, as mentioned elsewhere in this thread.

Assuming the head is stripped (rounded) and it's not the threads, I'd use this style of broken bold extractor. That is assuming you can fit it on.

If you've got nothing at all to work with, then you can use a spiral-flute type broken bolt extractor

These are basically like big reverse-threaded screws that screw in counterclockwise (so lefty-tighty, unlike normal bolts/screws) that let you put enough torque on the bolt to remove. No sawing is necessary, you just have to drill a hole into the stripped bolt more or less on center.

If it's the nut on the hinge pin, I'd just use a small drill bit and drill several holes vertically and then crack it with a chisel (protect the door when you do this.)

Practically everyone carries door hinge pins and mounting hardware. Jeep dealers will have them, as will the major online parts places (4WD, quadratec, etc.)