(Part 2) Reddit mentions: The best power drill parts & accessories

Amazon.

I have:

Generic Hobby Knife - Generic hobby knife kit. Blades were shit so I buy Xacto brand but the knives and case are good.

Needle Files - Extremely useful for polishing off mold lines or smoothing cuts.

Adjustable Jeweler's Saw - Handles a ton of different size blades for cutting metal, plastic, or wood.

Swivel Handle Pin Vice - Probably the best tool you can buy. Great for customizing what your troops are carrying.

Third Hand - Stupidly useful. Mostly for gluing.

Jeweler's Saw Blades - Bought these for my saw. Useful. Others might be better.

Micro Drill Bits - Bought for my pin vice. Useful. Others might be better.

Mini Drill Bits - Bought for my pin vice. Useful. Others might be better.

1: Dremels create high speed, but not torque. They heat the metal (to the point of minor burns), skip across surfaces and get stuck. For Drilling into metal minis, you want torque and pressure. I went BACK to hand drills after having too many lockups, overheated models and dulled bits.

2: Speaking of dulled bits, this is one of the most common reasons for lack of performance. Either find a way to sharpen your itty bitty bits, or have a stock of them on hand; I change mine regularly.

Start with a bit index like the one below, and get spares of the ones you find yourself using the most.
https://www.amazon.com/SE-826HDP-20-Piece-Drills-Plastic/dp/B000TY190C

3. Lastly, the KIND of hand drill you use can make a huge difference; try to find a ball-end type grip; something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/CML-Supply-Wood-Ball-Chuck/dp/B003LR73E0

The ball rests in your palm and allows you to better exert/control pressure on the drill bit and stabilized the whole process. It's also MUCH more comfortable on your hand.

Hope this helps!

Edit: If you're using paperclips to pin, i find #64 or #63 bits are best for the average small paperclip.

I’m like you, just a guy doing his own cabling at home. So not professional advice, just my experience.

Like others have said the fibreglass push rods are amazing. Could also look at the magnetic pullers; one magnet goes on cable inside wall, dragged down by magnet on outside. If firechecks turn to an issue this may help.

You don’t need a $100 punchdown tool, but if you have the money it’s up to you. I just got a $30ish (AUD) one, so not the $10 Asian one but a step up. Super cheap ones more often then not will do shit punches. I’d recommend going one with a 110 blade rather then krone, but that’s up to you.

For crimps I’m super suuuuuper happy I swapped to using one that worked with pass-thru style jacks.

I’d highly recommend getting a fairly decent stripper though, just makes life so much easier when it comes to not nicking conductors.

A nice trick for multiple runs, run something like clothes line first. Then tape your cable along side the line letting the line and drag through. Once that cables done, tape off to that same end and pull back the opposite way. Means you only have to fish the wall once and the line is being dragged back and forth not the cable.

Last but not least, always test your cables when you’re done.

3 Pcs SET Diamond Hole Saw Drill Bit Set Granite Glass Tile - Tools 3 Piece Diamond Dust Hole SAW Drill BIT for Ceramic Tile Marble Rock Porcelain - 1/2" -3/4" - 1" Inch In https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00DRRDFXC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_aakxCb1KKKR9K

I use this set from Drilax. I think anything smaller would be useless for drainage. I borrow my boyfriend's drill. Watch YouTube videos on how to do it, but essentially you want to squirt some water at the drill site, having it wet constantly so it doesn't overheat. You don't need to put all your weight on it, but you will need at least a little pressure. What helps me is putting pressure only on one side of the bit (it's a miniscule slight angle) whenever drilling, and switching/rocking occasionally from different sides. It really helps deepen the cuts. This also helps when you're starting to drill (keeping it on an edge rather than directly flat down), otherwise your bit will bounce all around the bottom of the pot (you'll still need your other hand to steady the drill for the beginning cut... Maybe even your feet to stabilize the pot, lol).

I know when I'm about to break through, because the water I squirted onto the pot will suddenly run through. And because I'm drilling at a very slight angle, I only have a semicircle hole, and I just have to rotate my pressure on the other side now. It's a rather gentle finish and I've never broken a pot!

I hope some of that made sense. Sorry for the wall of text. Good luck! It's super fun!

that's a pretty legit list right there. I have a trunk full of gear, probably worth almost as much as my car. I do a lot of contract work, so my list is pretty much the same just slightly beefed up.

• I have a basic tech kit from Amazon
  
• I have a buttset Sometimes reffered to as a linemans set.
  
• About 10 of these Floating around my car/trunk/tool bags and person. because i like to lose things lol
  
• A Basic cable tester
  
• This Cable mapper
  
• Coax crimper (For tv, and bnc)
  
• Crimp Kit
  
• I buy these Like candy, they're perfect for ISO's for giving to customers with instructions and/or iso's just perfect in general for a lot of things.
  
• Stinger Flash light Serves double duty as a i'm a volunteer first and second responder
  
• Cable stripper
  
  Replenishables
  
  
• I Keep at least 50 of these on hand
  
• rg59 tips (CCTV BNC Tips)
  
• RG6 tips (Cable TV)
  
• RJ45 tips (A mason jar filled with about 60-100)
  
• at minimum of box of cat5 Sometimes up to three boxes. i will have a job soon that will require six of them lol.
  
• Patch Cables 3f and 5ft usually at minimum 10 of each
  
• zip ties (Usually three containers of 500 of assorted sizes)
  
• White 2 4 and 6 port keystone faceplates
  
• White keystone blanks
  
• low voltage mounting brackets
  
• white 1 and 2 port surface mount boxes
  
• some hdmi cables (Usually just 4 or 5 of these)
  
• electrical tape (5 50' rolls of different color) for many things
  
• Pull string
  
• dikes (Not really but they dissappear so fast they feel like it) like These
  
• I actually keep two label makers
  
• Rolls of 8 inch velcro ties
  
  contractor things
  
  
• Step bits
  
• Paddle bits
  
• Hole Saw Kit
  
• Masonry bits
  
• Caulk gun
  
• caulk
  
• grommets
  
• Ladder
  
• First aid kit
  
• 150' Fish tape
  
• An 18V Cordless DeWalt Hammer Drill
  
• Regular drill bits
  
  
  
• I use these to organize my laptop bag (win surface pro with usb to rj45 adapter, usb to db9 adapter, console cable, lan cable, wifi hotspot, anker battery pack, 500gb usb hard drive etc)
  
• I use these bags to organize everything
  
  and a myriad of other small parts pertaining to surveillance system installs, and screw bits for my drill, and i even have secured walkies for when i have multiple employees on site. plus i have to admit bluetooth headsets for when i have to deal with helpdesks or tech support while i'm on site... did i mention i do a lottttt of contract work. i'm all over the place. every now and then i run into things that this kit can't handle but for the most part i come away with a rather professional look.
  
  sorry for formatting, i've seen plenty of these posts this is the first time i took time to actually look up evrything i've purchased.
  
  Edit: Some formatting. added velcro :P

go for the diamond dust bits. I just recently got a set of them and they changed my life. Well maybe not quite like that but they're leaps and bounds better than the arrow head looking ones. I got a set of 5 off Amazon for a little more than $10 and could not be happier with how they performed. Couldn't find any at my local Home Depot. The only issue is that they only go up to half an inch in diameter and the smallest downstem i've found is a tad larger than that. There is a set of bits by the same brand for like 30 bucks and they go from the next size up to like an inch and a half diameter but i'm not sure if i'm ready to upgrade to those just yet. It would make drilling holes for standard down-stems exponentially easier, but I don't do that kind of thing with any regularity. To make the holes bigger I have used a conical grinding or sanding drill bit but make sure you use water to keep everything cool (especially the diamond dust bits) and be patient. I've cracked many a bottle pretty badly due to impatience and improperly cooling the bit.

Oh and the brand is Neiko

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000UF5V18/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A3J828QRASPXDB

http://www.amazon.com/Neiko-Heavy-5-Piece-Diamond-Marble/dp/B000QVAGIE/ref=pd_sim_hi_1

Good question.

I bought a locally made hookah (DC area- base with stem) from my go-to hookah shop. Had a dremel handy so with a few modification, the fit is nice and snuggly. I had to cut the downstem to make it shorter and after making the neck smaller using the dremel, I ended up using electrical tape instead of a grommet and it suprising works great.

If you are unable to find a stem that you can modify, you can create a downstem by using refrigeration copper coil and sealing it by putting epoxy on the cap.

You will also have to make a hole for in the glass using a diamond dust drill bit for the hose. You can find all of the parts from Home Depot. You may need to create another hole for a clear valve and buy one of those parts for glass hookahs to serve as a clearing mechanism. I did that a few years ago with a grey-goose bottle and everyone loved it. However, it was short-lived due to the extensive setup and breakdown time lol

That hookah idea was was inspired off of this article but I didn't like some of the parts used.

Hope this gives you some ideas.

http://blog.chrismendes.com/2012/10/13/how-to-making-a-patron-hookah/

References

(Make sure you check the sizes etc before buying, I just googled these)

https://www.amazon.com/Hookah-Purge-Valve-Hitter-Evolution/dp/B00NQAAC54

https://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DW5572-4-Inch-Diamond-Drill/dp/B000VR7E60/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1509838955&sr=8-3&keywords=diamond+drill+bit+1%2F4&dpID=51caYxspi3L&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

https://www.homedepot.com/p/1-4-in-OD-x-10-ft-Copper-Soft-Type-Refrigeration-Coil-PCLE-250R010/203654086

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Loctite-0-85-fl-oz-Clear-Quick-Set-Epoxy-1943587/205761597

Get yourself some masonary bits for your drill, mine were about 15$ on amazon. hit the thrift shop/yard sales etc. anything you like can be a pot. shallow pots are better than deeper for succs. i use egg cups, candy dishes, cannisters sets, flower bowls, serving dishes, soup bowls, etc. your choices are endless and it is a way cheaper option, especially if you have 50 or 60 of these things like i do. i also got glass bits for my drill and so have some really pretty glass pots as well.

if you want a store option, terra cotta pots are cheap and you can find them in any big store like walmart etc. sometimes the thrift shop has those too...and if they are a bit grungy, i wash them really good with soapy water to ensure no parasites, let dry then use a sanding block to sand away the grime or discolouration.

if your succs can stay outdoors, you can use concrete blocks (or make concrete pots). drift wood etc.

edited to add some links/info.

EDIT Again! here are some of the great pots i've thrifted and drilled. https://imgur.com/a/4ztbWmn

Too late for this, but easy outs are NOT for use with seized screws. They are only for use with screws whose head is buggered.

I wrote this up a while back, you should give it a read:

Best tools for removing broken or stripped screws.

As for getting the easy out OUT, there is another option, but you need some crazy tools. Mainly a drill-press stand for your hand held drill, and a hollow, diamond coring bit, like what you would use for drilling a hole through glass or ceramic. If you can cut around the easy out with the coring bit, then you can break it free. Next, you finish over-drilling the hole, and then insert a threaded insert to bring the hole back down to the correct size.

Parts I'm talking about:

Drill guide The drill guide is important because the coring bits will walk all over the place since they don't have a center point. The guide can be fastened, held, etc. in place better, and help guide the bit to where it needs to go.

Core bit
You can also use a more standard bimetallic hole saw, just without the pilot bit installed.

Threadsert (Choose the ID of the original fastener, and find it in SS, not carbon) Don't use a Helicoil, those things are shit. (Speaking from LOTS of experience here...)

Two taps that match the outside threading of the threaded insert. One a taper tap, and one a bottoming tap.

brad point bits are multipurpose. and pretty much anything that can drill metal can also drill wood.

Of course there are some bits that only drill wood but are very useful for what they do.

Good
https://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DW1369-29-Piece-Titanium-Pilot-Point/dp/B0035XHWNW/

Best
https://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DW1269-29-Piece-Cobalt-Pilot-Point/dp/B000R94EFG/

both have been linked in this thread.

you yourself found the hex shank bits:
> I’m assuming my only option is impact ready like this DEWALT DD5160 Impact Ready 10 Piece Titanium Drill Bit Set https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017KUENH8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_BH57AbSDWFX1B

and the top comment linked you to the keyless adapter:
> That chuck only accepts 1/4" hex bits. You'll need something like this in order to use twist drills, or you can buy 1/4" hex/"impact ready" drill bits like these.. The other style you are used to is called a keyless chuck.

Use a glass drill bit like these

Make sure to use lots of water while you're drilling to keep it cool. If you keep it cool enough you can drill a nice clean hole.

If you're feeling handy you can use a tap and die set to put threads in it to put in a downstem that wont jiggle around as seen here

Edit: Don't tap the glass itself instead fit a piece of metal which is tapped. Fix the metal to the glass with super glue

I am sure there are other ways but I use carbide glass drill bits. They are a bit pricey ( 10-20 dollars USD depending on the size at home depot), but they do a really good job and are designed to cut glass so you have less of a chance of cracking it. There are cheaper sets out there on Amazon but I have found you have to replace them much more frequently and they just don't hold up as well.

hope that helps!

Sorry to hear about that, I know hindsight is always 20/20 but I recommend always center punch mounting holes, pre-drll, and then use a hand screw driver to apply the screw, it takes longer but you will never damage a speaker/subwoofer.

Another good option if you like to still use a power tool is this: drive guide set

Yes. This style of bit also works.

http://www.amazon.com/Vermont-American-13310-4-Piece-Glass/dp/B000ETWIKM/ref=sr_1_3?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1411526817&sr=1-3&keywords=glass+drill+bit

Looking through the options, I may get some of those diamond bits because they're a lot cheaper and come in a bigger range of sizes than my hometown hardware store. Fun side fact, the diamond bits work well for really thin, delicate pieces of glass.

I use something like this, and haven't broken a pot yet out of 50+ holes drilled! I keep a little puddle of water over the spot where I'm drilling, or at least keep it as wet as possible, to keep it from heating up too much. Honestly, it's been AMAZING, I have so many amazing pots now, including converted pitchers/cups!

You can probably get them out pretty easy with a left handed drill bit. These Irwin bits are pretty baller. Just use a self centering punch or a small pointy punch and mark the center, then start with the smallest or second smallest one.

The idea is that the bit will catch the bolt and spin it out.

They also make this set that has spiral flute extractors, just in case the left handed bit doesn't catch.

You should use a torque wrench if you're not (I've totes broken bolts when torquing to spec before, so no hate if you are), a small 3/8" wrench that does inch lbs. Those bolts are probably supposed to be between 80 in lbs and 110 in lbs. Torque wrench will a) ensure you're not over-torquing and breaking bolts, and b) it's even all the way around, so you're not pinching the gasket weird in some spot.

I've been really pleased with this DeWalt drill index. Not saying it's the most price efficient or necessarily the best, but the bits bite straight into the wood, and practically pull themselves through. Have used on sheet metal with equally satisfactory results.

There are some "hand drills" that may be close to what you're thinking of. Most of them are cheaply made from China, and most of them only have 1/8" chucks and are meant for light duty stuff.

A quick search yields something like this and this, And of course you can always get a 1/4" to 3 jaw chuck adapter like this.

Ratcheting tap wrench is an interesting idea, although they don't have 3 jaw chucks, they're typically 2 jaw chucks with square recesses that probably don't grip anything well that's not a square end tap.

Use left handed drill bits, it’ll pull it out.

A little more expensive than some, but good tools are their own reward.
www.amazon.com/dp/B0002NYBJG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_IXsPDbX4H7CPB

Don't listen to /u/Brian373k, unless you want to put a huge hole in your wall that you have to patch. They make drill bits specifically for doing this sort of work. The bit is long (72 inches in this case) and flexible so you can feed it into your existing hole, down the wall cavity, and drill though the cross member while keeping the drill outside the hole. You can get a handle for the bit that help you keep it bent and hold it without chewing up your hand. These are available at Home Depot or Lowes in the electrical section with the fish tapes, often for less than amazon is asking. Check out the pictures and videos here for a demonstration on how they work. The handle isn't necessary, but does make it easier.

I removed the recoil for the pull start. It was 4 small bolts. If you've ever had to fix the pull rope then you've done it before.

When you get that off, you'll see that there's a nut that the recoil was turning. Find a deep well socket that fits that nut. Then you'll need something like this so that you can put the socket on the drill.

https://www.amazon.com/SE-7503SD-Power-Extension-Bit/dp/B0002TW1D8/ref=sr_1_2?adgrpid=59148646213&gclid=CjwKCAjw44jrBRAHEiwAZ9igKAT3jMtbld0tEIJ37YkqehiUYYbUsiPZDf9AmzgEnJg3aWuRCMzMlBoCvygQAvD_BwE&hvadid=295656596052&hvdev=m&hvlocphy=9016188&hvnetw=g&hvpos=1t1&hvqmt=e&hvrand=4724770542817919199&hvtargid=kwd-383813721561&hydadcr=20342_9690425&keywords=drill+attachment+for+sockets&qid=1566766883&s=gateway&sr=8-2

After that you just push the primer a few times and then use the drill to turn the motor clockwise until it starts. Be ready to let go of the drill. It might want to spin out of your hand.

https://youtu.be/SRd6A8jkZgA

Awesome! If it's your first time drilling into glass, practice a couple times on similar bottles first. Also make sure you're using a hole saw like this:

http://www.amazon.com/Neiko-00824A-16-Inch-Diamond-5-Piece/dp/tech-data/B000UF5V18

My house was all Cat 3 6 home runs to the exterior. I replaced it all with solid core Cat 6 and added two runs for wireless access points in the ceiling. It was a PITA. I home ran the new stuff to a network enclosure box I added.

Cat 3 is junk I've seen it send 100Mb or more inside a house but if you ever have to troubleshoot issues your wires will always be the unknown.

As others have said you can never plan on just pulling new cat 6 behind the cat 3 it works like 10% of the time thanks to staples. So if you accept that you are cutting drywall and learning to fix those numerous holes then it's a much more realistic job. Basically everytime I got a snag I got the drywall saw out. Transitioning floors can be tricky but not impossible again cut the drywall.

Here are the best tools for the job. Flexibile long drill bit was a major cheat once I started using it. Fishing tape is a waste of the time except for conduit in my opinion use the fiberglass sticks I linked below.

https://www.amazon.com/Eagle-Tool-EA56254-Installer-16-Inch/dp/B00DNEEYFW/ref=sr_1_7?keywords=drill+extension+wire&qid=1564611470&s=gateway&sr=8-7

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005LW4CFG/ref=psdc_6396129011_t3_B07F2LWVDV

https://www.amazon.com/Stanley-15-556-Jab-Cushion-Grip/dp/B00002X21W/ref=sr_1_4?crid=12ICHMNHKXEGF&keywords=drywall+saw&qid=1564611505&s=gateway&sprefix=drywall+saw%2Caps%2C125&sr=8-4

That chuck only accepts 1/4" hex bits. You'll need something like thisin order to use twist drills, or you can buy 1/4" hex/"impact ready" drill bits like these.. The other style you are used to is called a keyless chuck.

You did a good job with fit and finish. One thing I like to do when using screws is to countersink... I think it really improves the project. Take a look at this link below. You can drill a pilot hole and countersink in one swoop:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0000225OU/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1525891819&sr=1-2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&dpPl=1&dpID=51QMLOynRSL&ref=plSrch

What brand are they? The easiest method I have found for hollow Ever-Readys is:

• Cut the hair with a razor knife as close as you can with a razor knife making sure to not hit the handle
  
• Get a set of paddle bits and start with the smallest one (I am sure a forstner bit would make this a lot easier)
  
• Drill through the knot into the hollow the handle trying to keep it as close to the center as possible
  
• Take the next size up and do the same until you have removed the knot and are left with this
  
• Clean it up using a Dremel with a sanding wheel.
  
  If you want to keep the knot, try the steam method.

http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MQKW230 - Great purchase. Far easier to work with than a wire.

I'm not going to lie. I think your weight is an issue. My wife at 120 is very strong and has a tough time with screwing 4 inch screws into solid wood beds.

With that being said, getting good bits that fit your screws properly will help immensely. Also, consider getting a magnetic drive guide like this:

http://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DW2095-Magnetic-Drive-Guide/dp/B00004RH24

That was a game changer for my wife. It allowed her to lean over the drill 2 handed and put all her weight into the drill instead of trying to fight pushing down while maintaining stability.

I’m assuming my only option is impact ready like this DEWALT DD5160 Impact Ready 10 Piece Titanium Drill Bit Set https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017KUENH8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_BH57AbSDWFX1B

Get an installer bit that's 54 in or 72 in, you'll make way fewer holes. https://www.amazon.com/Eagle-Tool-EA56254-Installer-16-Inch/dp/B00DNEEYFW/

Also a boroscope is great to make sure you don't hit any electrical wiring.

https://www.amazon.com/ANWA-Professional-Inspection-Megapixels-Smartphone/dp/B075FGMW6T/

Dude what tinkering. There's like 2 minutes and 45 seconds of effort there, max.

Get a 5/8" diamond hole saw at a hardware store or home improvement store, and some 5/8" rubber grommets. Then you can drill bottles to your heart's content, and the holes will fit a standard 1/2" downstem, glass or metal.

Don't even fucking mess with plastic for a smoking device, ffs.

Ok so get a really thin sewing or hypodermic needle and carefully put it into the nozzles end, if it doesn’t fit, don’t force it. I’ll link a thing for that specifically in just a second.

Edit:ok here you go.
eBay: https://m.ebay.com/itm/8pcs-Nozzle-Cleaning-Needle-0-2-0-25-0-3-0-35mm-3D-printer-Cleaning-Needles-/222630788518

Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00MQKW230/ref=pd_aw_sim_229_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=VV7QD5F4WX772BSX6J10&dpPl=1&dpID=617jklFtJDL

Yeah everything looks right in there. I still think its a clog. If turning up the heat made the quality better, that indicates a flow issue. I would bet if you turned the speed to like 30, it would be better as well. Clog can be a misnomer, as you can still have decent flow, but not perfect flow with a clog. Get a set of these to help if needed. I used the lead on a resistor for a while but its not exactly .4mm.

I had a pesky clog that wouldn't come out. What I ended up doing was heat up the machine, push a bit of filament, ream the drill bit in and out and twisting the whole time. I felt something come loose but it still wasn't 100%, even after pulling the filament. So then I put the drill bit in about 1-2mm and cooled down the hot end while spinning the bit the whole time so the plastic wouldn't catch it. Then at around 100C I pulled out the drill bit and pulled the filament out. This was so I could be sure that the clogging element didn't seat itself in the exit and resist coming out with the rest of the filament. Since then, i've been golden.

Like the other guys said, its a pilot bit+drill bit+countersink.

I have the modern, replaceable bit, version set from Dewalt for prepping decking for screws. I love them

> how do you run wire through something like a 2x4 perpendicular to the framing in the middle of a wall? I can't imagine having a 5' long drill bit would help... Would it?

There actually is a long flexible drill bit designed just for that:

https://www.amazon.com/MAGBIT-777-72-0816-2-Inch-72-Inch-Fish/dp/B005M29JN0/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1469277163&sr=8-2&keywords=flexible+drill+bit

There is a bit of an art to using those, which I have never done, but if you Google around I am sure you can find some tips, videos, etc.

Depending on the size hole you want to cut, get this type: https://www.amazon.com/Diamond-Hole-Drill-Granite-Glass/dp/B00DRRDFXC/ref=pd_lpo_469_bs_lp_img_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=GEGR9BY5JSS4KGAVHABX

Most glass cutting bits will be diamond coated, and they aren't expensive. I got a 1/2 inch size bit for cutting holes in bottles, and the type I linked handled that far better than the normal style bits (also diamond coated) without cracking or chipping the glass.

The important thing is to take it slow, and don't press too hard on the glass, let the bit do all the work, and have it supported underneath to avoid cracking and chipping.

I can appreciate the criticism if you started with a solution first then moved onto that.


But for someone who had been doing machine work for years and has never seen left-handed bits "reverse bits" or whatever... Makes me suspect anyway. https://www.amazon.com/Tools-Cobalt-64-Inch-Assortment-30520/dp/B0002NYBJG


All that being said I appreciated his solution in the end.

I got one of these for my electric screwdriver.

It's a godsend when I'm restringing a few guitars and basses at the same time.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005M29JN0/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1420153393&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SY200_QL40&dpPl=1&dpID=11Gy7Qi7O2L&ref=plSrch

"Flex Bits" might get you a bit more results. They also sell them in Home Depot with the electrical tools in the electrical section as opposed to the standard hardware area.

An easier solution would be to check out wire mold that you can mount to the wall and run the wire in. Alternatively you could simply paint the wire.

Oh no my friend, I paid $15 for a single bit and it doesn't resemble yours at all.

Give http://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DW5572-4-Inch-Diamond-Drill/dp/B000VR7E60/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1369220278&sr=8-2&keywords=diamond+drill+bit a try and it will change the way you look at glass projects especially if you have a press.

I cant even imagine the things I could do with a press and a quality bit haha

If you only have one guitar and restring it once a year, no. That said, they are so cheap that even then, I would have one. I think I own about 5 by now, though I don't have one of the powered ones yet.

I love my string winders and would never be without one.

Cheap one

Mid-priced

Fancy with cutter (but kind of unwieldy)

Drill attachment

Power winder

There are cheaper ones than I listed and more expensive ones. But this is a decent representation.

THIS plus this. These things were a lifesaver bolting together a massive swing set / playhouse combo for the grandkids last Christmas.

I got these and they have been perfect for adding drainage holes to my ceramic pots. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DRRDFXC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_9L.SBbP50KN83

If you have a drill, a grinder, a vice/clamp, and something like this you might be able to sharpen the socket yourself. This might be a terrible idea, just sharing some brain rain.

Edit: Tape between the socket and square adapter could be used to make socket more stable for grinding.

The only difference between LP and NG orifices is the hole size. However, you cannot tell the difference with the naked eye as the difference is pretty small. But if they did give you the wrong jets, it would explain everything. You can check the orifice diameter by getting a wire gauge drill bit set (like this) and checking for yourself.

NG doesn't use a regulator, at least not one near your roaster, as the pressure is dictated by what comes into your building and what the local gas company has set the pressure to. Since you are getting 11 inches, that ought to be enough, but maybe not. You should get a good variable pressure regulator (like this) and dial it up to 22 inches. A bbq regulator may provide the pressure but it's got a small diaphragm regulator that might freeze up under high flow conditions.

Also, what does your flame look like? Check the flame color charts to make sure it's right. (Google it.)

Use a counter sink and tapered head screws, like drywall screws to install the tub.

counter sink will make the screw heads flush with the surface on the tiling flange.

Counter sink example

http://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DW2535-Piece-Countersink-Assortment/dp/B0000225OU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1408325845&sr=8-1&keywords=drill+bit+with+countersink

Careful tightening the screws, if you use a drill to drive them in set the clutch so you don't over tighten and crack the flange, might be best to do the final tighten by hand.

You can shim gaps under the screws with cedar shims. ( flange does not touch the stud ) then cut the shims off.

http://www.hardwarestore.com/36-count-16-red-cedar-shims-656434.aspx?utm_source=pla&utm_medium=cpc&utm_term=brand=nelson%20wood%20shims%20and%20adwords_labels=hardware&utm_campaign=rkg&device=c&network=g&matchtype=&creative=20650488858&adpos=1o4

Surely you use one of these then!

If you have a drill, there's a drill bit you can order online that makes the process really easy.
http://www.amazon.com/Planet-Waves-Drill-Bit-Winder/dp/B008BPI2OW

Hey folks, for less than $10 you can get a 5/8" diamond hole saw at most hardware stores and make your own bottle bongs.

That's what this subreddit is all about, engineering your own smoking devices. It's really not difficult.

Good countersink bits

That is a 'drive socket' for a 4mm hex bit. The 'bit' is actually the hex. This is made so people with a socket wrench can use (in this case) 4mm metric allen fasteners.

To use this sort of bit with a drill, you need a socket adapter for a drill. Here is a set with the most common socket sizes. You are possibly better off getting a regular 6mm bit set and a bit holder.

Get a set of left handed drill bits (Amazon link) then take the smallest one from this kit, press it against the screw head, and turn the drill counter clock wise slowly.

You're trying to get the bit to bite into the head, grab a hold and unscrew it. You can apply a bit of presure.

Wiki is: http://mpselectmini.com/

Some items I bought from Amazon (don't buy the hot end pieces if you have a V2. They changed the hot end to an all metal one):

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00WE1A3D2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00T2DNKJY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LAYCRAA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00L4UXQ42/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
V
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MQKW230/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01A81FXMK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01ACIFPYA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

You don't need an adapter when the drill bits are formed like these

Even ones like these? https://www.amazon.com/0-4mm-MakerBot-Printer-Nozzle-Cleaning/dp/B00MQKW230

Dewalt Magnetic Drive Guide in case anyone wanted to get one like me.

I've used a drill bit like this one before (Amazon.com Magbit) and been able to get up most walls with it. I have cut out the hole where the wall jack will do and then drill down with this and run that cable through the newly created hole.

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Obviously stay away from any wall that might have electrical in it unless you know exactly where it is.

Treat yourself to a set of left hand drill bits. The bits usually start drilling and end up catching and un-threading the stripped/stuck screw.

These are what I'm used to.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0000225OU/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1407665594&sr=1-1

I don't think metric/imperial is much of an issue of you're working with wood. You can always look up a conversion chart to make sure.

Go to your local hardware store and look for a 5/8" diamond hole saw bit. This will make holes that can accommodate standard 1/2" glass/metal downtubes with a bit of room to fit a rubber grommet. A 1/2" hole saw will work, but you'll have to enlarge the hole slightly. You can use these bits with an electric drill or a Dremel.

If you don't have access to a headshop in your area for downtubes and bowls/funnels, you might want to order online. Otherwise, you're going to need to start looking for aluminum or steel 1/2" tubing with screw threads.

http://420armory.com/home/product/glass-hole-saw-bit-large/ This company offers the rubber grommet and downstem to fit the hole as well, but the hole saw itself is $10.

You can probably get a 5/8" hole saw for $5 or less at your local hardware store. https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-Diamond-Coated-Cutting-Silver/dp/B0087Y81MU/

Splitting the wood -- other than pilot holes being too small, you might also try to countersink the wood to suit the screw heads, too.

Something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DW2535-Piece-Countersink-Assortment/dp/B0000225OU/

Make sure the bit is fully seated into the chuck--with small bits, this is a particular problem because sometimes you need a longer drill depth. I prefer to use hex shank drill bits like, say, these: https://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DD5160-Impact-Ready-Titanium/dp/B017KUENH8/ -- they'll never slip.

I used these to drill several holes in thick glass brick. Go slow, especially with larger ones, and use plenty of running water to cool and wash away glass dust. Use a drill press to keep it straight and provide steady light pressure. They have similar larger ones.

I would use this.

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https://www.amazon.com/Eagle-Tool-EA56254-Installer-16-Inch/dp/B00DNEEYFW/ref=sr_1_4?crid=J5EGT9THD1RC&keywords=klein+drill+bit+extension&qid=1563999563&s=gateway&sprefix=klein+drill+%2Caps%2C462&sr=8-4#customerReviews

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Then not have to mess with any drywall.

Here's one I found on Amazon (US)

Vermont American 13310 4-Piece Glass & Tile Drill Bit Set https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000ETWIKM/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_vrkAwbAR4VGJG

Here are things from my wishlist (past and present)

Wera Screwdrivers
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B0085NTQJK/

Oscillating blade set:
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B0109SELWA/

Clamp multimeter:
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00NWGZ4XC/

Kreg Jig Jr.:
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B000J43A7W/

Angled Long Nose Pliers:
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00N3VSS4S/

Groove Lock Pliers:
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B000FK1R0W/

11 ft wifi endoscope:
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B01MYTHWK4/

non contact voltage tester:
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B001UAHZAM/

claw nail puller:
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B0015YPJMY/

Workmate portable work bench:
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B000077CQ0/

Cable snake fish tape:
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B000BP7WBO/

9 Outlet metal power bar:
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00F8ZQY5M/

Spade drill bit set:
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00099E7WE/

36" bubble level:
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B000UKMWMO/

https://www.amazon.com/Vermont-American-13310-4-Piece-Glass/dp/B000ETWIKM

glass drill bits

These ones?

I use Kamo 5PCS 0.4mm Drill Bits for 3D MakerBot Printer Nozzle Cleaning Kit $7.00 always when the hot end was hot. But since I started removing the filament when I was done with the printer for the next few hours, I've not had any need to use them. Not a single clog.

Planet Waves make one. http://www.amazon.com/Planet-Waves-Drill-Bit-Winder/dp/B008BPI2OW

This: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0002TW1D8/ref=pd_aw_fbt_469_img_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=X2J5087G07862V1EEK8N


Plus whatever socket wrench you need...

usually a hole in the headers, drilled with a long drill bit

https://www.amazon.com/Eagle-Tool-EA56254-Installer-16-Inch/dp/B00DNEEYFW

or, if you have access to the attic, drill down and fish the wire with a fish tape

What about the bits with the counter sink built into the top?

Everyone punches a hole in a sub/surround sooner or later. Can confirm, some silicone will suffice.

I use a drive guide now, haven't poked a hole in a speaker since.

The main application is putting in self tappers. Using the impact for drilling is just an efficient/lazy compromise. Here. Look.

Close.

Cut the hole in the wall and use a long flex bit to drill through the bottom of the wall from the top down.

Then just clip the wire to the end (these bits have holes in) and pull it up. This is called an 'installation' drill bit, it's exactly what the pros would use for this.

I use left handed drill bits to extract broken bolts, usually works really well and doesn't require multiple steps

Turbo charged: https://www.amazon.com/Planet-Waves-Drill-Bit-Winder/dp/B008BPI2OW

I use this set of drill bits I saw suggested on this subreddit. I have used them for several pots with no issues or breaks so far. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DRRDFXC

No I bought on of these to permanently leave on the shaft.

Neiko 20753A Keyless Chuck Conversion Tool | 1/4-Inch Shank https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007TCHKXW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_bYXZzbJ6KP7XJ

for the rear, lift under the differential (use a hockey puck between the jack and diff cover if your jack doesn't have a pad) and put a jack stand on each side of the car on the frame just in front of where the LCA meets the chassis.

Then lower the jack under the axle which will let you push down the axle so that the springs just fall out.

don't lift the car at the LCA's. They don't seem like they are designed to bear that much pressure on that chassis joint but I could be wrong.

Camber plates are not really needed until you hit about a 2" front drop.

Here's a short list of the most common tools I carry when working on someone's car

Torque wrench

Deep sockets that can take a beating from an impact gun

Extensions (pro tip: if you ever have to change your starter, you will need about 15+ inches of extensions)

And this is the spring compressors I use

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000CMDPLM/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I also have a 90 something piece craftsman set with most of the 1/4" and 3/8" drive bits and swivels/boxx wrenches, etc but usually use the 1/2 stanley sockets get grabbed first.

These are also super handy if you have a power drill (better yet, a power drill with impact setting)


Mustangs don't really have a whole lot of random tools needed to work on them so unless you have a foreign car, your tool set shouldn't ever really get too complicated.

It's typically when you get blindsided by some small little issue like a rusted or rounded off bolt that can turn a 2 hour job into a 2 day job. I worked on a guy's old fox body to help him replace a clutch and he had 2 stripped transmission bolts. I had these handy which were more or less the only way we could have gotten that done (besides calling a tow truck to take it to a transmission shop)

http://www.amazon.com/Irwin-Industrial-Tools-394001-Bolt-Grip/dp/B0000CCXVZ/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1406576108&sr=8-2&keywords=stripped+bolt+remover

>Should I call an electrician to install an ethernet port?

Why not do it yourself and save hundreds of dollars?

Is there a basement or attic? Use that for horizontal runs.

For the walls, if you have a typical twigs and plywood house, getting between floors will be a bit tricky, but not super hard. Cut a small hole at the floor and ceiling along the wall in the 1st floor, using a long, flexible drill bit drill down into the basement from the hole near the floor. Drill up to the second floor the same way. Try to keep the bit centered on the sole plate/top plate.

If you have to use the attic to run from one side of the house to the other, you'll need to repeat the above process on the second floor to get to the attic, then once you're in the attic above the bedroom, drill up from a hole near the ceiling to get into the attic from the bedroom, then cut a hole where you want your wall plate.

Then you'll have a few small holes to patch and paint.

In mechanics, I'd use a drill bit that spins counter to tight. So, in the typical case that's a left-hand bit. These are fairly specialized and aren't the kind of thing you'll find at Home Depot. Amazon can help.

Use cutting fluid to keep the bits cool. Start with a bit that's smaller than the broken screw shaft and drill slow and successively use larger bits until you either drill out the broken screw or the screw rotates out.

Most of the time, the bits loosen the shaft and eventually just spin out the screw without having to drill it all the way out. Thing is, with the head off the screw, there's no tension holding the threads in place. Just need to spin it free.

Does what you link totally replace the stock assembly? The nozzle goes up into some kind of block that appears to have tape around it. Will I need to rethread everything through that? I was unable to get the nozzle out of that block (I tried). Is there a trick to that?

And would these work to get the piece of metal out? https://www.amazon.com/0-4mm-MakerBot-Printer-Nozzle-Cleaning/dp/B00MQKW230/ref=pd_bxgy_328_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=7BCEZ83W2VV756AWMCFZ or are they too thick?