(Part 2) Reddit mentions: The best recording studio environment equipment

Having your ceilings vaulted like that is a great start. I'm not sure how big your room is, but helped tame my low-end issues in my 12x10ft (8ft height) room by using thick panels. I started with homemade bass traps, but I had much better success making 6in-thick panels out of very dense insulation. Thick panels for small rooms was recommended to me from one of the major acoustic treatment retailers.
I ended up making them myself for a lot cheaper. I personally love Rockboard 80 because it's very dense (look at Roxul's absorption numbers on their website) and is super easy to work with (it's not fiberglass, which I hate working with). I used a similar method to this, using corner bead and rivets. I'm not very handy but it was super easy.

I'm the first to recommend a small mixer or audio interface and dynamic cardioid microphones for your setup, but let's save that recommendation for later.

You are going to have an incredibly difficult time eliminating cross talk and attempting to record on two tracks with your setup. The reason for the crosstalk issue is that the Blue Yeti is a condenser microphone which means the diaphragm which captures the sound is powered and very sensitive. This is actually a great thing given an audio controlled environment such as a sound booth where room echo or reverb and ambient sounds can be controlled. In your average home this is a nightmare and people end up spending hundreds if not thousands of dollars for room treatments when a simple hardware purchase of a dynamic microphone can solve most of those issues without redecoration your recording space. One way to combat this is to make a microphone vocal box. You can DIY a vocal sound box like this one. Or you can spend a few hundred dollars one. You can also just use a pillow fort around your microphones to test it out. This probably won’t eliminate your crosstalk issues but it might help control it some.

The other issue with two USB microphones can be solved as /u/BangsNaughtyBits stated but just beware, these solutions have a tendency to break at inopportune moments.

Now I'm going to return to a hardware solution. If you are recording in the same room I'll often recommend a Zoom H4nPro, a Zoom H5 or a Zoom H6 recorder and two XLR Microphones. I started with the Behringer XM1800s which if you are cash strapped I'd still recommend. However, if you can afford a bit better microphone I'd suggest a Blue enCore 100 or a sE Electronic V7 for each person in the sub $100 range.

> Edit: 1 new from $77,458.34!


Well, fine if you are going to pinch pennies....

Last time I had looked that Pyle booth was ~$45 or so. Maybe

https://www.amazon.com/Portable-Microphone-Studio-Voice-Isolation/dp/B00G2KP10G/

but I've seen people post they home made equivalents with egg crate foam with good results. There are lots of more expensive options on Amazon without going too crazy.

There was computer agents that price things like this and they figure they don't have one bet can buy one for X from another Amazon vender so they charger X + $25 and post as a third party seller. They sometimes the original seller sees the +$25 price so raises their own price, which the other seller shortly reflects and they manage to drive the cost of a vinyl box and foam to the price of a pretty nice luxury car or small house in some parts of the US.

Sorry about that. It should be fairly easy to see how to build a similar ports-booth for $20 and a trip to the hardware store.

!

Get something like this. See if you can find it locally to get a better price.

Owens Corning 706 or 703 does well, too, but it's usually a little more expensive.

Wrap it in a breathable (important) fabric like these. If you don't want to pay the premium for tested/fire treated fabric, get your own at a fabric store.

If you go DIY, I'd recommend applying fire treatment spray to the fabric before wrapping. If you don't, I'm sorry that your basement went up in flames, but please don't sue me.

You can wall mount them with something like this. Make sure to get the ones with standoffs to get the air gap. That air gap makes a significant difference.

If you don't want to buy enough to treat the whole room, just figure out the pickup pattern of your mic (cardioid), and place panels as close as you can in that pattern, leaving room for yourself. For a wide-ish cardioid pattern like the 57, you should place panels behind and to the sides of you, everywhere but the back of the mic.

Use what you know about your room and your mics to make clever decisions.

In case anyone finds this by Googling later, I experimented with two different generic rail kits, for science:

• NavePoint 1U Rack Mount 4-Post Shelf Rail Full Depth
  ** I tried these first, and they DO NOT fit a Lenovo SA120 in a standard 19" square-hole rack. The design of these rails means they stick inwards about 1/4 centimeter beyond flush with the rail, making it an extremely tight squeeze for larger hardware like a (2U) SA120. While that alone might still be usable in some racks, additionally the depth of these rails is adjusted with some screws that have heads that stick yet another few millimeters inside, making it impossible to seat the machine. It might be possible to make the squeeze if you have a round hole or threaded rack, but I wouldn't chance it.
  
  
• CyberPower 4POSTRAIL 4-Post Universal Rack Mount Rail Kit
  ** These worked for me. They're a similar design to the NavePoint, but they leave a few precious extra millimeters between posts that made all the difference. It's still a tight squeeze, and I had to remove the SA120's rack ear protectors to make it fit (you can put them back on after), but it's in there good and securely, and flush with the rest of the equipment. Looks great.
  
  Thanks to /u/Mthrboard for pointing me in the right direction, and to /u/donnydavis for offering to sell me a genuine kit!

do you have a guest bedroom or room that does not share a wall?

You've basically got to invest in sound foam and padding and build boxes/ frames. Its not going to be perfect but it will stop some stuff from echoing around.

Like others have said you really do need a room with in a room to make it truly sound proof... which if you have a guest bedroom, you could just shrink it down by a few square feet and build an acoustic room.

Also as far as listening loud... if you really do enjoy music be mindful of the decibel readings in your house as you can easily give yourself permanent hearing damage.

Focus on the quality of the sound in the house, not the volume. You'll be surprised at how amazing things can sound with good quality speakers and the proper acoustics.

Yeah I know these aren't REAL bass traps or broadband absorbers, but considering the benefit that this simple kit gives, its a pretty good value:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00TT7BGQM/

and
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B010GPFRUQ/

I made my own bass traps which outperform these and cost less. But if you were on a budget and wanted a noticable improvement, I would buy these.

I'm honestly not sure... In my personal experience, it helps to have something to absorb the sound, like a carpet. I have a drum kit in my room, and I moved a carpet in there some time ago, which definitely made a difference in the sound resistance.

I'm also pretty sure acoustic wedges like this are generally a standard in soundproofing a room. Hope this helps!

Mounting the turntable is imho the better option:

• it should isolate better (from what I read)
  
• it doesn't take away the option to play around with speaker positioning - definitely more flexible for the future.
  
  Probably also easier/safer to do since the turntable is not that heavy.
  
  But you can also use some cheap foam pads https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DP0HI4C - these should do a pretty good job

I have to agree with MonsterMuffin - The biggest thing you can do to make your homelab quiet is to get some low DBA fans - this typically means larger fans(larger fans spin slower to push the same amount or more air than smaller fans, thus making them quieter), and picking out servers and switches that are a little larger than 1u or have multiple fans that spin slower as opposed to a few that spin really fast.

If you already have a 1u server, the fans you can get that are quieter typically push less air - nothing you can do about that really. What you can do is buy some acoustic foam and wrap it near the ends of the server where air/sound come out - with something like this:

http://www.amazon.com/Acoustic-Foam-2-1-24-18/dp/B0002ZPLP2

The reviews state they smell bad but not an issue unless you line a whole room with them for example. At any rate a few of these would be cheap and reduce sound just a tad. Combining that with getting some lower RPM fans are your best option, however picking hardware that makes less noise is a critical part in choosing servers to use for your homelab in the first place. It's the reason why something like a C1100 or old Poweredge 1950/2950 is not really that attractive, despite being so cheap for how much you get (these things definitely make more noise than significant others can stand).

Beyond the above solutions you are looking at a pretty hefty price tag for reducing sound significantly, such as rack enclosures with sound dampening.

I can't help but notice you have some slight reverberation in your commentary audio. I'm guessing your setup is probably pretty close to at least one wall, and isn't properly soundproofed. I would suggest getting something like this or this to hang on the wall(s). Alternatively, old blankets work just as well, and I've read that egg cartons work too.

A lot of materials work to absorb audio from bouncing off of surfaces and your mic picking it up. Once you soundproof a little, you'll notice a big change in audio quality.

EDIT: Almost forgot to give feedback on the video itself. I only watched XCOM, and I have a bit of an issue with your editing. The first 7 minutes of the video probably should not have been preparation, but I don't mind that. That being said, your video definitely shouldn't end mid-mission. XCOM videos simply won't be short unless you're some kind of god at the game, so don't worry about video length. It's generally accepted that strategy games are going to have long videos.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W2SBmvBbIYI

PM me your address again so I can send you some of the square panels that are clogging up my closet -- I was able to hang a couple of them out of my asshole cat's reach, but I still have a bunch that are doing absolutely nothing but collecting dust at the moment

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square foam panels:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074JK1GKJ

mainly chose them since they had four stars across 50+ reviews, and had 2.5 inches of depth (vs. the majority on amazon that only push out 1 inch)

huge difference in sound quality -- much less reverb, way easier to make accurate decisions when mixing, not nearly as much random bullshit getting picked up when recording vocals

honestly felt similar to when I made the jump from 60hz monitors to 144hz monitors a couple years ago

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how to treat a room:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZitBGg9zGfg

https://ehomerecordingstudio.com/acoustic-treatment-101

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6-dOSD1KoNU

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bass traps:

just as important as the square panels

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00TT7BGQM

https://ehomerecordingstudio.com/bass-traps/

tl;dr: if you have a square room, buy 8 bass traps, and hang two in each corner (one touching the ceiling, one touching the floor)

side note, these things are huge: https://i.imgur.com/YNuuobB.png

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hanging everything up:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074KR7LZ1

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cc: /u/iamtheamaznazn

Personally, I record my vocals using my headphones built in microphone and then process with Neutron. You'd think it'd sound terrible but heres what you do. You set up your mic, you put on the headphones, you set the audio input to be very low, you put a thick blanket over you and your laptop. The blanket helps stop reflection and keeps out quite a bit of ambient noise. Now youre not going to get a perfect recording doing this but I've never had anybody ever tell me that my vocals sounded poor. You'll get a good enough recording where processing will make it sound pretty great tbh.

heres a sample of my vocals: https://soundcloud.com/qpeakmusic/unmastered-vocal-snippet

or you could buy a microphone, an interface, and one of those cheap portable vocal booths: https://www.amazon.com/Pyle-PSIB27-Recording-Soundproofing-Isolation/dp/B0117DB5TI/ref=sr_1_4?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1524684120&sr=1-4&keywords=portable+recording+booth

What he said: heavy stuff up top makes it easier to tip over.

Generally, if they are only 12-18ish inches deep and don't come with rails, then they're fine with being on two posts.

If you are still uncomfortable for whatever reason feel free to buy some 4-post shelves.

Even 2-post shelves are usually rated for 50#, some for 100#.

Edit:To secure the Yamaha receivers, I might consider unscrewing the feet and drilling some holes in a rack shelf or rails to bolt into the same. This way everything can be secure if you have to move the rack around.

Edit 2: Lastly, and I'm sure you know this, some of these receivers call for 30cm of space above for proper ventilation: they're not designed for rack mount. So I would mount some fans on the back and close any excess open slots to pull air across the top of the devices.

Awesome, thanks for the response. Looks like I'll be picking one of these up. There seems to be one dedicated to subwoofers whereas yours is for amps and loudspeakers, is there any reason or is one higher quality?
Edit: These are the two i'm talking about

http://www.amazon.com/Auralex-Subwoofer-Isolation-15x15x3-inch-Charcoal/dp/B001140OZ0/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1376941401&sr=8-7&keywords=Auralex

http://www.amazon.com/Auralex-GRAMMA-Monitor-Isolation-Charcoal/dp/B0002D0B4U/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1376941401&sr=8-8&keywords=Auralex

I've been with them since my first build and no complaints. In my rookie years I flashed the BIOS from Windows and bricked it. Of course flashback worked and fixed it. At work, I a crappy fan that shorted and blew the regulator on the board (literally put a hole in it) and the system still works - just not the fan header. So forgiving.

I'm not the biggest on the microphone side myself, however case fans are no good either but I think there could be ways to notch out the sound. How silent is your case? Another cool thing you may like are acoustic panels for your wall. They come in different verity to suit your taste. Also you have isolation shields and boxs but it's a little clunky. Cutting the wall reflections help.

Yeah true enough, you'd be surprised the things you hear coming across peoples mic's. Keyboard clack is the least of the worry.

As requested, here's the composition of the rack:

• NavePoint 12U Network Rack
  
• TP-Link TL-SG1024: 24 port rackmount switch
  
• TP-Link TL-SG1016PE: 16 port rackmount power over ethernet switch (needed for the Wi-Fi access points)
  
• TP-Link TL-R600VPN: Rackmount router w/ dual-WAN and VPN
  
• Rackmount Power w/ surge protection
  
• Rack shelf: Used to hold modem and NAS
  
• Patch Panel: 24-port Cat6 patch panel (wires go in the pack via punchdown connection, and you run patch cables to the switches)
  
• 12" Patch cables: For connecting between the patch panel, swicthes, other on-rack devices
  
• Synology 416play NAS: Movies, music, pictures, etc. 32 TB in all.
  
  Elsewhere in the house/other useful parts:
  
  
• Keystone Cat6 jacks: one per bedroom, 4 in my home office, 4 in the media room (not built yet), 3 in the family room
  
• 1-, 2-, 3-, and 4-hole keystone wall plates: Buy the number of holes you want and just pop in the keystone jacks
  
• Blank keystone inserts: For when you have too many holes in the keystone plates
  
• Ubiquiti AC Pro x 3: Wi-Fi access points, roughly center of the house on each floor (basement, first, second)
  
• Punchdown tool: For doing the punchdown connections on the patch panel and on each of the keystone Cat6 plugs in each room
  
• Extra rack screws and washers
  
• J-Hook: There are two hooks on each wall, holding service loops for the Cat6 and Coax, respectively.
  
  Useful things I learned:
  
  
• I was originally going to run the wires myself, but never could find the time. Also Cat6 is expensive when not purchased in wholesale quantities (< 10,000 ft). So we hired a local electrician to run the actual wires. It took two of them about 1.5 days to run everything. This was well worth the money, since the project would have taken many months to do in the evenings/on weekends with a toddler running around.
  
• I did all the wall terminations. Since they were punchdowns, it was easy and took one evening after work. The electricians would have charged me another half-day of labor.
  
• I did all the network rack work. This also took one evening after work.
  
• Do NOT buy electrical/networking equipment from a big box hardware store. Always go to a specialized retailer, like an electrician supply store. Their prices will be 1/20th that of the big box store, you won't have to have anything shipped, and their employees actually know what they are talking about. So if you're looking for something that you don't know the name of, you can usually describe it.
  
• Newer construction may have fire breaks/blocks/stops which prevent fire and gases from traveling up the inside of the walls. This makes fire move more slowly and give you more time to evacuate. However, it also means you might need to drill holes/patch walls in order to run wires vertically.
  
• Put in a service loop. If you ever need to re-terminate for any reason (like replacing a patch panel), it will give you extra cable to work with. Do the same thing inside your walls behind the wall plates, since you might have to do the same thing there as well.
  
• Buy networking gear that is rated for the same speed (i.e., gigabit). Your network will only be as fast as the slowest part of it.
  
• Watch out for network loops. This is really easy to do and will cause your router to crash or perform suboptimally. I spent >2 hours debugging on of these as a result of connecting my router to itself by way of both switches.

I use lacks (the bedside ones, something like 20" x20") and haven't had a problem with warping. I use one stacked on top of the other so the top one holds my keyboard and monitor.


I also use the Bygels to hold one of my r710's up, but I had to replace the legs with wood. I remember a few months back someone commented on how Ikea wasn't producing/carrying Bygel rails anymore. I'll try to find the comment. I haven't been to an Ikea since, so I can't confirm if this is true or not.



Obviously, with the bedside one, most servers will stick out the back. My r710's stick out ~8" I believe. It hasn't given me troubles though.


The Rast may be worth bringing up. I've seen a few people get these and install something like these to mount your hardware. This guide might be useful to you. I've been thinking of doing something like this, with one rast behind the other, but since my lack situation is still not giving me issues, I haven't really had a reason to switch.

I always suggest recording your commentary and gameplay audio in a separate track. There are a few reasons.

• While editing you can adjust the volumes separately to get the perfect balance.
  
  
• You can edit your audio in Audacity to make it sound a lot better. The two major tools you want to use are compressor and normalize.
  
  If your mic is picking up the tv, then there are a few things you can do. Invest in a quality condenser mic with a good unidirectional (cardioid) polar pattern. Then face the mic directly away from the tv. Make sure your mouth is 6-8" away from the mic. Record 5-10s of room silence and use the noise removal tool. make yourself a microphone isolation box to reduce background sounds. Finally, and most importantly, wear headphones.

It's pretty much exactly 130hz. I played a sine wave at different pitches and that frequency sticks out as the loudest alongside 180hz as well.

In that case would something like this do the job? I certainly can't afford anything else.

I will try out EQing though, see how it goes.

best way is to get rid of the things that are making the noise in the first place.

get a ssd if possible to get rid of the drive noise, use rubber vibration dampeners between any moving parts and your case(fans,hdd), get better case fans like the noctua NF-A14 PWM fans.

and if that does not help you, you will want mass to dampen noise, so go get some mass loaded vinyl

don't get the foam stuff it wont help as much as you think

hope this helps

I disagree with some of the comments. There's options you have to limit the soundwaves traveling through the walls. If you're in the cellar, there's a few things you can do to help the noise.

Mass Loaded Vinyl: https://www.amazon.com/Loaded-Vinyl-Square-Acoustic-Barrier/dp/B007N3356S

Subwoofer Pad: https://www.amazon.com/Auralex-Acoustics-SubDude-HT-Subwoofer-Isolation/dp/B00DI5AXNI/

Bass Traps: https://www.amazon.com/Column-Acoustic-Studio-Studios-Theater/dp/B01C9F83QQ/

Acoustic Panels (would recommend 2"): https://www.amazon.com/Pack-Charcoal-Acoustic-Absorption-Treatment/dp/B01KKNO9QW/

Now, the acoustic panels and bass traps are sound absorbers, not sound deadeners. In my opinion, however, if you get those last, it will improve the acoustics and accuracy of the sound you're hearing in your cellar, so maybe you wouldn't have to play it as loud.

I think the best thing you can do at first is get the subwoofer pad, followed by some mass loaded vinyl. Depending on the size of your speakers/monitors, you might want pads for those, as well. You're looking at reducing vibrations, which is what the pads and vinyl is made for. The foam and bass traps will just give you a more accurate sound.

Those are sound dampening panels, they're used to improve the audio quality of your recordings, not for fireproofing - though if they're anything like these they have a Class A flame spread rating, which is pretty good (i.e. doesn't burn easily).

NavePoint Cantilever Server Shelf Vented Shelves Rack Mount 19" 1U Black 10" (250mm) deep https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008LUW49G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_nXb9BbQ2ZKE7R

I used this one for my modem and small stuff. It’s less expensive and has edges that are rolled up to keep stuff on the shelf. I don’t have any of the larger shelves because all of the big stuff is rail mounted. But the modem is on a small shelf. There are a bunch of different sizes.

One thing to keep in mind when looking at stuff is the specs online for how deep things are does not include the amount of depth that cables like the power cable adds to the back.

Also, if you have dell sliding rails, consider the cable management arm. It’s really nice to have to keep cables organized and keep them from ripping out of the back when you slide the server out.

It has sideways cuts in the bottom for airflow. I used Velcro cable ties to keep stuff in place. I attached multiple cable ties together and down through the shelf holes.

VELCRO Brand ONE WRAP Thin Ties | Strong & Reusable | Perfect for Fastening Wires & Organizing Cords | Black, 8 x 1/2-Inch | 100 Count https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001E1Y5O6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_nYb9Bb1E6D6EM

The Knu CLD is a good choice. You may want to order an additional 14 sq ft just in case; you don't want to gut your interior then get stuck waiting for more CLD for a week. You can always throw the driver's seat back in and get to work with no interior though.

For CCF I'd recommend ensolite peel and stick from raam audio. I used this along with their BXT-II CLD tiles in my install and it's easy to work with. You'll probably need around 8 or 9 yards.

Finally for MLV I'd take the easy route and just buy this from Amazon. Should be more than enough.

Now, as an alternative, just contact the guy that runs sounddeadenershowdown.com. I've read that he is a nice guy and will help you select all of the stuff you need. The products he sells are top notch but I've heard shipping is costly. You don't seem that sensitive to price so this may be the way to go to ensure you get the right materials the first time.

Lastly, take a long look at your current install. If you don't have 1/0 gauge running to the back, 6 channel RCAs, two sets of wires run to each door, etc. consider spending the extra cash and doing all that stuff while you have the interior out.

I hear some pretty good things about microphone boxes. I haven't used one myself, though, and that link's just one of the first that came up in a quick Google. Seems like it might be a cheaper and potentially more convenient option depending on your setup, though, so it might be worth looking into.

I ordered one of these racks about 2 years ago when I wired up my house and finished my home office:

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01A6JQV8Y/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

my only hangup on it (and you can actually see it on a review) was that the screws that came with the rack were junk, and I had to go out to get new ones that actually would fit right.


also using:

this patch panel - https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0072K1OWY/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

this shelf - https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B008LUW4CI/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

and this cable manager - https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01HJTTOH4/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

wish I had photos of the little get-up in my closet for you. I've got a basic 4-outlet battery backup powering my ISP modem, my router, managed 24 port switch, and the seagate single-drive NAS we use.


one day i'd like to get one a bit bigger so it can also support the pi server that's also sitting on that shelf and the POE injectors for my APs.

Yeah man you can use blankets n stuff if you don’t have the money or option to buy foam panels and put them on the walls.

here’s a good option too. This paired with hanging thick blankets around the room will probably be your best bet.

Easy and cheap solution for you, put some acoustic foam in your setup.

https://www.amazon.com/Acoustic-Foam-2-1-24-18/dp/B0002ZPLP2

I can almost guarantee that'd fix the echo. Basically you just put it at an angle on the sides of your tv/wherever you face when you speak and it'll stop that stuff. Great content man, keep it up!

Honestly it's 99% decoration. You'd want to order a thicker model in higher quantity.
https://www.amazon.com/A2S-Protection-Acoustic-Insulation-Quality/dp/B01GAMP2S6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1474819839&sr=8-1&keywords=sound+dampening+foam+48 a couple sets of these might work.

Happy humping ;)

As Zeeall said, get them off of whatever they'll be on. You can get some cheap foam on amazon. I'd also recommend getting some foam panels to put on the wall. Put them on the wall behind the speakers as well as the wall where your neighbors are. A bunch of bass traps for the corners would also be good.

I don't anticipate either of those options making an impact. I think your need is coming from behind (i.e. the room). Below is a link to Warren Huart discussing vocal recording in general. Skip to around the 4:40 mark give or take, and he has a great explanation of where to buffer reflections for home recording https://youtu.be/x_Zsn8wq5Js

As it stands, I think you might be better off getting something like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GAMP2S6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_y9CRzbRC3YZ7X
That way you could mount them on the walls to kill some of the reflections. I glued them on some foam board from Hobby Lobby and nailed the boards on the walls. This drastically deadens the space. That way, I'm getting clear recordings. Remember, you can always add an effect in post, but it's harder to reduce or remove a printed effect. Hope this helps.

This may look familiar, I posted my setup briefly a couple weeks ago but deleted it. I’ve since made some changes and took better photos. Now I’m ready to share!

I switch between the PC & Mac with a USB switch that’s connected to a hub with my keyboard/mouse/mic/webcam/etc, and then change the input source on the monitor. The TV above me isn’t normally on, I really only use it when on the couch behind me.

I use the MacBook 90% of the time, but when it’s time to do video editing or rendering I fire up the big boy:

16-Core AMD Ryzen Threadripper 1950X 3.4GHz

NVIDIA GeForce GTX 1080

32GB DDR4

500GB SSD + 3TB HDD

---

The rest:

LG 34” Monitor

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074JKT894/

ATS Acoustic Panels

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00QH2RJW2/

Table Lamp

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074XPNS3Z/

Monitor Stand

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01NBVBQKZ/

And of course the usual IKEA KARLBY countertop & ALEX drawers. The floor lamp is also IKEA: HEKTAR.

Thanks for the advice! I could get a subwoofer pad like this.

Do you have any experience with these products? Do you think it might help reduce shaking walls?

Nice wood working, rack looks real nice actually. If you want it to have real rail sidings you can buy these, work real well. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JQYV8BQ/ref=sr_ph_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1485093027&sr=sr-1&keywords=rack+rails

> gik art panel acoustic

those look expensive, but really nice. Is there a cheap alternative if you don't care how the wall looks? Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GAMP2S6/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=AZDBGW3MVFF0M&psc=1 ?

based on what i've been reading it sounds like Mineral wool is better than fibreglass. Would something like this work so that I could just stuff this in there.

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B006C10IR6/?tag=sndprf-20
http://www.acoustimac.com/mineral-wool-1260/

I don't really know the difference of 6 vs. 8 lbs/sqft

I've used mass loaded vinyl. I've used it personally. I bought so much of it, that it was delivered freight on a pallet and I needed a friend to help me transport the roll inside. It. Doesn't. Work.

If you want to buy it, knock yourself out. I even went through the trouble of finding a supplier for you. Enjoy.

Packing blankets hung over the frame of a camping toilet-tent or similar structure make a great make-shift temporary vocal booth, or you can buy something like this.

Since many people have already given you mic recommendations, I would also like to add that you should try to avoid filming in "echoey" places, such as that hallway. You can have the best microphone on the planet but that ain't gonna be of much help if you're recording in a tiny tunnel.

Either prioritize filming outside, or invest in Echo proof foam.

Got them from Amazon https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GAMP2S6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

To mount them I just bought a can of spray adhesive. It all went up pretty easily.

If you can, pick up a mic surround, it will make a huge difference in the source recording quality and allow you to "add back in" the right level of effect (levels, reverb). Like this: http://www.amazon.com/Microphone-Diffuser-Isolation-Absorber-Griffin/dp/B0082DAL3S but you can make one for like 1/10 that price with eggcrate foam.

option 1: Build your own, you can use wood and add these or something like them to get the mounting holes. this will let you build exactly to the size that you need, and can be done for pretty cheap .

option 2: Startech 25U 4 post rack with wheels

You'd need to buy enough foam and broadband absorbers, and don't forget the corners to cover everything but the prices seem ok.

To cancel all the noise you'd need a much more expensive professional solution but you're not going to be playing music, are you?

If you're referring to the traps in the corners, they're actually not very high quality. I got them pretty cheap on Amazon. They're not bad for the price though.

The panels on the ceiling and side walls are from GIK Acoustics.

​

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071XNPW6G/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

https://www.gikacoustics.com/product/gik-acoustics-242-acoustic-panel/

is this what you mean by a diffuser? https://www.amazon.com/Microphone-Diffuser-Isolation-Absorber-Griffin/dp/B0082DAL3S?ie=UTF8&*Version*=1&*entries*=0

if so, that's what i was referring to when i said 'reflection filter'! i wasn't sure what they were called and by googling random words i found someone refer to it as reflection filter a couple times so i just posted that. but yeah a diffuser is exactly what i was thinking of. i'm not the best at articulating myself with regards to these things but yeah basically it seemed to me like i was recording and the sounds would echo and bounce off of different parts of the room (it's a large-ish room in which i record) and come back to the mic and just give it a muffly sound, so maybe isolating the mic off with some sort of padding behind it might be useful so that sounds aren't bouncing around like that. based on your and cesarjulius' responses though i'm wondering if maybe i have the wrong idea about what's actually going on when i record

>https://www.reddit.com/r/homelab/comments/8h9rdd/built\_my\_first\_rack/

On Amazon - AC Infinity Vented Cantilever 2U Universal Rack Shelf, for 19” equipment racks. Heavy-Duty 2.4mm Cold Rolled Steel, 100lbs Capacity. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01C9L3K18/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_LQG7Ab7SMH2JA


It's the best looking one I found and doesn't bend at all. Just watch your mounting depth. They come in a few different depths.

Thanks for the reply! I've got regular 1ft by 1ft auralex tiles (96 of them) and then I've got these bass traps.

None of them are in frames. I've just got the tiles and traps. I also have some OC703 about 6 inches thick but I can handle the hanging of those. It's just these flimsy foam panels giving me an issue. I've got enough of them that the damage free hangars are gonna be a serious pain in the ass. The inverted shelf strip does seem like a good idea acoustically, i haven't seen that before. Thanks again for the ideas.

I'd recommend either of these two over the 2.5lb per sq/ft density.

https://www.amazon.com/Roxul-Rockboard-Mineral-Wool-Board/dp/B006FKNVTQ/ref=pd_sim_267_3?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=P20ACAJ3FF2RR668MZTR

https://www.amazon.com/Roxul-Rockboard-Mineral-Wool-Board/dp/B006C10IR6/ref=pd_sim_267_4?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=PV8V5JGB36YEKPW77S5C

The reason being the denser ones have better frequency absorption in low mids. You're not going to get too much low end absorption with 2" panels but you'll absorb a little more with the denser Roxul. A 4" thick 8lb panel is more or less a bass trap. I work with all three of these densities regularly, each has their own strength. If I was only gonna put 2" panels in a room I'd go 8lb if I could. I'm not a huge fan of 703 because i prefer to work with the mineral wool over fiberglass. The biggest thing 703 has on roxul is its rigid, so you can just spray adhesive fabric onto it and then hang it. With roxul its better to use a frame. Acoustically they are almost identical.

Yes it is feasible, but I think you're overthinking it. A single sheet of plywood slightly larger than the window opening with weatherstripping around its perimeter will do just as well at making an airtight seal, then you can cover the plywood with some egg carton style acoustic foam. Basically you're making one of these acoustic panels, then sealing it over the window opening. To get the most out of it you'll need to hold the panel tight against the wall, which means screws or glue. Depending on the wall material screw holes are very easy to patch when the time comes.

I highly recommend getting some foam isolation pads. These work great with my Elac B6.2: https://www.amazon.com/Rockville-RRS190S-Studio-Monitor-Isolation/dp/B01DP0HI4C/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=Rockville+RRS190S&qid=1551292619&s=musical-instruments&sr=1-1

Thanks all, look like we're going DIY.

Roxul Rockboard 80, Mineral Wool Board 2" - Case of 6

Pretty much all rack mount stuff. The box itself I made. You can get the AV Keystone jacks and 48 port plate at Monoprice. The rails, screws, additional plates and rack mounted power supplies from Amazon.

http://www.monoprice.com/category?c_id=104&cp_id=10426

http://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=8630

http://www.amazon.com/Technical-Pro-PS9U-Supply-Charging/dp/B0057RL6DQ

http://www.amazon.com/Reliable-Hardware-Company-RH-6-SRR-Space/dp/B00JQYUI7G

http://www.amazon.com/Reliable-Hardware-Company-RH-RMSET-25-Washers/dp/B00JQYUAQU

http://www.amazon.com/16port-Blank-Panel-Keystone-Jack/dp/B00PEKNW2Y

http://www.amazon.com/kenable-Cable-Management-Universal-Cabinet/dp/B004HTHL20

http://www.amazon.com/CNAweb-Blank-Spacer-Mount-Filler/dp/B01B1T0RZG

http://www.amazon.com/Odyssey-APV01-Space-Panel-Accessory/dp/B0002DV0CW

I had a pile of the keystone jacks from a previous purchase a couple years ago so I did not have to get a whole lot of them. The toslink keystone jack has a issue of popping out which is solved using a zip tie to hold it in.

This is my new ethernet networking hub in the new house. I had two Cat6 and one RG-6 pulled to every drop and have 14 drops throughout the house. All of the ethernet drops (red and yellow in the top right of the picture) run to this cabinet and the RG-6 go to a panel to the lower right of this with the cable modem and firewall (pfSense). The house is a two story with a walk out basement and this cabinet is in a storage room next the to the stairs in the finished basement.

Equipment:

• Tripp Lite 9U Wall Mount Rack Enclosure, 16.5" Deep, SRW9U
  
• TRENDnet 48-Port Cat6 Unshielded Patch Panel, TC-P48C6
  
• Cisco SG300-52 Managed Switch
  
• D-Link 10-Port Gigabit PoE Switch DGS-1210-10P
  
• Apple Time Capsule (re-capped power supply, reversed and vented fan, WD Red drive)
  
• Sangoma PBX running FreePBX
  
• CyberPower PR1500LCDRT2U Sinewave UPS 1500VA 1350W
  
  Accessories:
  
  
• CyberPower RMCARD205 Remote Management Card
  
• CyberPower ENVIROSENSOR Enviromental Sensor
  
• Monoprice 1000-Feet 23 AWG Cat6 500Mhz UTP CMR Solid Bulk Bare Copper Ethernet Cable - Yellow (108109)
  
• Monoprice 1000-Feet 23 AWG Cat6 500Mhz UTP CMR Solid Bulk Bare Copper Ethernet Cable - Red (108107)
  
• 50M Multimode Duplex 10Gb Fiber Optic Cable (50/125) - LC to LC
  
• LC-LC 10Gb Multimode Duplex 50/125 Fiber Patch Cable, 1FT
  
• TRENDnet Gigabit SFP module, Multi-Mode, Mini-GBIC, Up to 550 m, TEG-MGBSX
  
• Tripp Lite SRCAGENUTS Rack Square Hole Hardware Kit Screws, Washers
  
• Cable Matters Cat6 Ethernet Patch Cable in Black 1 Foot
  
• GearIT Cat6 Ethernet Patch Cable 1.5 Feet - Red
  
• GearIT Cat6 Ethernet Patch Cable 3 Feet - Yellow
  
• NavePoint Cantilever Vented Shelf 1U Black 14" (350mm) deep
  
  Equipment not shown:
  
  
• Leviton 61110-BW6 Extreme Quick Port Connector, White
  
• Leviton 61110-BL6 Extreme Quick Port Connector, Blue
  
• Leviton 41085-MLR Quickport Duplex LC MM Fiber Optic Adapter
  
• Leviton 41091-3WN QuickPort Midsize Wallplate, Single Gang, 3-Port, White
  
• Leviton 41080-4WP QuickPort Wallplate, Single Gang, 4-Port, White
  
• Arlington LV1-10 Low Voltage Mounting Bracket, 1-Gang, Black
  
• Brady PWM-PK-8 B-500 Matte Repositionable Vinyl Cloth Wire Markers
  
  The D-Link is currently for the PoE VoIP phones and PBX. The Cisco switch is for everything else in the house for now. There is a Drobo camping on the top of the cabinet which will be decommissioned eventually and content moved to a FreeNAS server. Current power draw from everything here including Drobo is 85W.
  
  Cross-posted in /r/HomeNetworking
  
  edit: forgot to mention that the fiber line runs to the den where the lab will be setup. Currently the other end is another Cisco SG500-28 (the model without the fans, so quiet). Future upgrade is a 10G connection.

I got these and love them https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00TT7BGQM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_s43LDbDFN5YJ9

Have had a pair of JBL LSR305s for years and they are probably my favorite audio purchase ever.

That being said, getting some foam blocks like these to angle them made a HUGE difference.

Your mic is great in soundproof rooms. https://www.amazon.com/Microphone-Soundproofing-Griffin-Soundproof-Insulation/dp/B0082DAL3S

I got the rails on Amazon. They're pretty sturdy though one piece to another set I bought later did have a flaky paint job http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JQYV8BQ/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=B00JQYV8BQ&linkCode=as2&linkId=IBSCPXGPANCE667E

I cannot confirm about the Norco ones specifically, but I got a set of these link for some supermicro chassis I have.

Much better than spending the 70 dollars for official ones.

After looking at that, I'd rather find / obtain something like this (obviously something bigger / smaller depending on taste / needs), then install some rails of the proper into it, then install your hardware. My previous employer actually did something like this for an Extron / Crestron hybrid automation installation into a credenza for a conference room. They had their maintenance folk install a small / quiet 'muffin fan' into it to provide some air flow.

I have http://www.amazon.com/Auralex-GRAMMA-Amplifier-Acoustic-Isolation/dp/B0002D0B4U/ref=pd_cp_MI_1, and a 12" Klipsch.

Haven't gotten complains yet, but our floors are concrete so that may play into it. I don't blast it either and just occasionally watch movies that are loud enough to the point where the sub is really noticeable.

Not really. The only real volume control im aware of is the gain and that will increase all noises it receives. it looks like that mic is a cardioid microphone which means that it receives sound form one direction more than the others so you can try positioning it at different angles to see if that helps at all. Ive heard about someone using something like this but Im not sure how effective it is http://www.amazon.com/Portable-Microphone-Studio-Voice-Isolation/dp/B00G2KP10G

Well the only solution I can assist here with is buy the foam sound dampening spiky wall things that you can find on Amazon to help with the quietness problem for her dark room hours.

Here's a link

This way, the rest of the house can be a bit louder while she gets to have her silence. Personally I do podcasts & this has helped the entire house from having to hear me.

They can hear me if I scream at my loudest but they can never hear my normal speaking conversation voice so I hope this helps your situation. You're a trooper for not giving up & I have nothing but respect for you.

Im sure your kids in a couple years will understand how tough your job is & thank you for what you've done

An external logging server will happen a little down the road but not initially. Out of curiosity, did you try a rack shelf like this one?

> How do I get a server rails fit on this?

Most of the time you won't be able to. Server equipment is generally meant for square-hole racks, and most OEM rails will not fit a round-hole (telco/network) rack.

What you can do is buy L-bracket rails for servers to sit on. The servers won't clip or lock in, but at least they're supported. I would not stack too many servers on a single set of L-brackets though.

I bought them from Amazon through reliable hardware I believe.

I regret not getting the square slots though. I'll find the link for it and edit my comment.

e: http://www.starcase.com/custom_steel_rack_store.htm

A little more expensive for easier mounting, flexibility and compatibility. The cage nuts give you a bit more leeway if your rails aren't mounted 100% perfect.

e2: These are what I bought specifically, but I would still recommend the starcase square slot rails.

I don't have exp. with it but have heard mass loaded vinyl is good. Not sure how it compares to just hanging an exra sheet of drywall or layering a brick facade though.

Is this what you're referring to? I might give that a shot, thanks for the tip!

Thank you! I purchased these, and these for the corners:


https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01C9F83QQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/Acoustic-Foam-Studio-Soundproofing-Corner/dp/B071XNPW6G/ref=pd_sbs_267_1?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B071XNPW6G&pd_rd_r=A1CPFEV7C5JFMCAHZFM8&pd_rd_w=dhXGn&pd_rd_wg=4sqPT&psc=1&refRID=A1CPFEV7C5JFMCAHZFM8

I had good results on a full-sized van for about $350 using a box of Dynamat for $150 and a roll of MLV for $200. I was able to reuse the foam already on the floor.

I tried to get about a 30% coverage with the dynamat, focusing a little more on panels that sounded louder when I tapped them (like the wheel wells). I know in cost-is-no-object installs they go for, like, 120% coverage, but a more conservative approach seemed to work just fine for me.

I did 100% of the floor and up the firewall with the MLV, and then hung it most of the way up inside the walls. I didn't do inside the front doors because lazy, and also because on this vehicle the thin single-barrier door seals are the main source of cabin noise.

Good results for the money IMO, it makes my 1991 van sound a lot more like a modern vehicle. Road and exhaust noise is greatly reduced. I still get a lot of wind noise from those damned door seals, but you won't have that issue on relatively modern Excursion.

For my first rack I put something like these [https://www.amazon.com/Reliable-Hardware-Company-RH-6-SRR-Space/dp/B00JQYUI7G] on a wood frame and it worked well. Yeah they are the threaded "AV" holes but I never had an issue from it, even with my 4U Rosewill FreeNas box.

I bought a tray

https://www.amazon.com/NavePoint-Cantilever-Server-Vented-Shelves/dp/B008LUW49G

The rpi is in a basic plastic case. I used a command strip to attach the case to the tray. Could probably get 8 rpi's comfortably on that tray.

Something like this should be exactly what you need!

Hmm maybe you can try putting some of those foam sound proof tiles on your ceiling to help absorb some of the sound coming from your office?

Thick blackouts and acoustic panels are 100% correct. Also one of these guys for your sub would help tighten the bass up: http://www.amazon.com/Auralex-GRAMMA-Amplifier-Acoustic-Isolation/dp/B0002D0B4U

Good eye - I actually have 3 different types. The blue and black ones that I already linked, 4 of the corner pieces, and 20 of the bigger, higher quality foam that I didn't buy from Amazon. Let me see if I can dig up the details of what they were.

I think the other responder meant those foam sleeping mats that have an egg-carton like texture for soundproofing, not real egg cartons. https://smile.amazon.com/Acoustic-Foam-2-1-24-18/dp/B0002ZPLP2/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1494975100&sr=8-3&keywords=egg+carton+foam

You could also get something like this http://www.amazon.com/Silverback-Sound-Dampening-Foam-Thick/dp/B00MAQNAPY

But can I use glue?

edit: I would like to use this foam

No, but you can build a small microphone box that can significantly reduce room reflections.

Here is a commercial version but you could easily build one yourself on the cheap.

Sounds like you've chosen poorly.

Try this. https://www.amazon.com/Loaded-Vinyl-Square-Acoustic-Barrier/dp/B007N3356S

You may try soundproof regular cabinet, with something like this https://www.amazon.com/ATS-Wedge-Acoustic-Panels-Charcoal/dp/B00QH2RJW2

You could try acoustic panels on the shared wall.

Yeah, I did have it on my desk exactly within arm's reach to my right. I moved it down and to the left of my desk on the carpeted floor.

I was thinking of taking some of that sound foam and some plywood, and building a small box to encase the PC inside of. The foam would be on the entire inside of the box that's encasing the case. I'm just concerned about air flow though....Which is why I haven't done it.

Fan swap, unplug one or two of the fans (inadvisable), sound foam? https://www.amazon.com/Silverback-Sound-Dampening-Foam-Thick/dp/B00MAQNAPY

I don't think skateboarding counts as excessive noise (has to be over 65 db in the daytime).
Additionally, they are playing within the permitted times, which is from 10PM to 7AM (M-Sa), and 10PM to 9AM (Sun, holidays).

I believe here is the pertinent bylaw:

> Continuous Sound in Residential Developments
>
> 28.(1) No Person shall cause or permit to be caused a Continuous Sound that exceeds the following Sound Levels:
>
> (a) 65 decibels (dBA) Leq measured over a one (1) hour period during the Day-time; or
> (b) 50 decibels (dBA) Leq measured over a one (1) hour period during the Night-time;
>
> at any Point of Reception within a Residential Development
>


http://www.calgary.ca/CA/city-clerks/Documents/Legislative-services/Bylaws/5M2004-CommunityStandards.pdf
http://www.calgary.ca/CSPS/ABS/Pages/Bylaws-by-topic/Noise.aspx

Suggestions:

• get some heavier curtains for your baby's room
  
• Install some sound-proofing foam panels in his room:
  https://www.amazon.ca/Silverback-Sound-Dampening-Foam-Thick/dp/B00MAQNAPY
  
• I've also heard that white noise can help, so maybe turning on some rainfall music in the background.
  

You don't need a completely silent PC for music production. Don't keep the extra hardware in the same room you're recording in and the mic simply won't pick it up.

When I did production in home honestly I just kept my pc 6 feet away from my recording "booth" and my booth was insulated drywall framed with 2*4's that were reinforced in wall with screws.

Out some of these (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01EIHFOTM/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_AaJwxbPEQVYX1) in the booth and on the outside of the booth

Hope that helps


www.flagz.net for samples.. Anything post 2014 is in an even worse embodiment with no sound proofing sitting right next to my gaming pc.

I found them on Amazon. Very affordable!

Pair Rockville RRS190S Foam... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DP0HI4C?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

I don't have this problem, but you could go to a hardware/crafts store, buy some cheap foam, cover it with fabric (so it doesn't look like crap), then hang it on your walls. Should do well to dampen the sound your neighbors are hearing.

If you don't want to spend the time making them, you could spend the money

I've used these Audiolex GRAMMA isolators - it was expensive but worth it in my case - much less 'rattle'. You may want to try it and return it if it doesn't help that much.

What about this? It says it suports up to 100 pounds each which is more than enough

https://www.amazon.ca/AC-Infinity-Cantilever-Universal-Heavy-Duty/dp/B01C9L3K18/ref=pd_sim_267_5?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=05M32TV9VHAJA3FB2BBQ

The room is in a closed crawlspace and no pets or anything will be in there. Also, we don't plan to add more RAM or make any changes in the future so being able to slide it in and out is not a problem.

Those storage arrays look cool but we really only need 4 slots of the r710 plus 4 other slots.

The company doesn't make rails, so would that shelf cantilever thing work too?

I would ask. Maybe even let the neighbor run on the treadmill while I went upstairs to see what it sounds like (choose a quiet time of morning or night, because without ambient city noise, the treadmill will sound much louder).

If there's noise coming from the treadmill making the house shake, buy a couple of these:

http://www.amazon.com/Auralex-GRAMMA-Monitor-Isolation-Charcoal/dp/B0002D0B4U

which I use to keep my musicians' amplifiers from broadcasting sound through the floor of our house.

Nice! Those Yamahas are exactly what is sitting on those exact stands in my setup...with some isolation pads in between. How big are your monitors? https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01DP0HI4C/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

From Amazon, it's a NavePoint 1U Cantilever shelf

Maybe try some of these on the sides. Cut down on MAWP, and one of these for more comfort for the truck when you are prone on it.

Whether you need a stand isn't up to the speaker, it's whether you have the space. If you can make room on your desk, getting some angled pads like these can work. If your desk doesn't have the space, then yeah you'll want stands.

Have speakers in corners isn't ideal. Having one speaker in a corner and one not in a corner is even worse. You'll want to set it up in a way where both speakers are in similar "locations".

lol i dont know, i was joking.. but then i thought about and well.... it just might work ha

maybe somthing liek this si easier and will block enough
https://www.amazon.com/Portable-Microphone-Studio-Voice-Isolation/dp/B00G2KP10G

Here you go!

I use these: NavePoint Cantilever Server Shelf Vented Shelves Rack Mount 19 Inch 1U Black 10 Inches (250mm) deep https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008LUW49G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Lg3pDbREW9TV5

First, pop off the wall plate and verify that the ethernet ports are using all 4 pairs of wires and if they follow the A or B pattern.

If those are wired correctly (and they aren't splitting off wire pairs for phone service) then you can either put RJ45 jacks on the wires or put in a networking rack with patch panel or keystone panel and keystones to hold everything together. Add a shelf to the rack to hold your router/modem.

I actually bought the cheaper box looking one https://www.amazon.com/Sound-Isolation-Recording-Shield-Box/dp/B0117DB5TI/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?keywords=sound+proof+box+for+recording&qid=1566233341&s=gateway&sprefix=sound+proof+box&sr=8-5 and put it in my closet - so far so good, gets the job done for me.

http://www.amazon.com/Acoustic-Foam-2-1-24-18/dp/B0002ZPLP2

Heres my suggestion,

I try to make everything rack mountable..

From Modems to Routers and everything else..

I usually get these 1U Shelfs: https://www.amazon.com/NavePoint-Cantilever-Server-Vented-Shelves/dp/B008LUW49G/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1510785591&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=1u+shelf&psc=1

For my ISP modem I glued it onto the shelf (liquid nails) then sawed off a piece of a patch panel with 6 ports and glued it on also. I terminated the patch panel with the other end being RJ45 modules into the modem. So the patch panel connects to the modem. Which allows me to patch in and manage wires through the front of the rack not the back.

Same for wifi/router

Also, where did you get those USB Keystone modules????

https://www.amazon.com/Acoustic-Foam-2-1-24-18/dp/B0002ZPLP2

https://www.amazon.com/Acoustic-Foam-2-1-24-18/dp/B0002ZPLP2?ie=UTF8&*Version*=1&*entries*=0

One thing I suggest is if you're going to be making videos in there, invest in some sound dampeners to reduce echo because the beginning of the video was very loud.

There are plenty of generic rack rails available. Here's an example: https://www.amazon.com/CyberPower-4POSTRAIL-4-Post-Universal-Mount/dp/B00TCELZTK

https://smile.amazon.com/Reliable-Hardware-Company-RH-6-SRR-Space/dp/B00JQYUI7G?crid=1UJHN95UE2D6S&keywords=6u+rack+rails&qid=1539135730&sprefix=6u+rack%2Caps%2C178&sr=8-3&ref=sr_1_3

https://www.amazon.com/Portable-Microphone-Studio-Voice-Isolation/dp/B00G2KP10G Something similar to this, there's multiple styles. Another common style is
https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-Microphone-Isolation-Shield-Absorbing/dp/B00GR9W1MS/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1542597805&sr=8-3&keywords=isolation+booth

https://www.amazon.com/Soundproofing-Acoustic-Eggcrate-Studio-Wedges/dp/B01EIHFOTM/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1499445396&sr=8-4&keywords=acoustic+tile

You can build this pretty cheap: https://www.amazon.com/Portable-Microphone-Studio-Voice-Isolation/dp/B00G2KP10G
Or rent rehearsal space but that will obviously be more expensive.

I built it using an ikea "rast" nightstand and two 6u rack rails.

Maybe a wall mount rack frame + server shelf.

https://www.amazon.com/Acoustic-Foam-Studio-Soundproofing-Corner/dp/B00TT7BGQM/ref=sr_1_3?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1506553162&sr=1-3&keywords=bass+trap

Take this with a grain of salt, but I think so. I will be purchasing these soon. I can let you know how it works out. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GAMP2S6/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=AZDBGW3MVFF0M

Rack Rails: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JQYV8BQ/
Sliding Rails: https://www.ebay.com/itm/HP-ProLiant-DL360-G5-G6-G7-Server-Rail-Kit-1U-364998-001-365002-002-364996-001/331823485170

Have you experienced any spacing issues with those round-hole rails?

I built my own 12U wooden rack and used these.

The spacing was so bad I only had 6U of usable space.

https://imgur.com/Y8jrzEm

https://imgur.com/nHXFqi4

I picked up a 24U Dell rack with square holes for $70 and threw sides and roof on the wood rack and it's now a doghouse.

Rails were about $10

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JQYUI7G/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I have three different kinds of shelves in there, all 2 post but rated for 40-60lbs

Printers: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00006HRKE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
UPS: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01C9L3K18/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Modem: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01C9KYUG8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Hi, I had a problem like this when I moved into my new house, and I tried soundproofing wall, look at this or this

Sound Foam will do the trick http://www.amazon.com/Acoustic-Foam-2-1-24-18/dp/B0002ZPLP2

Not really. Legitimate soundproofing involves rebuilding the entire room you are in - it is a serious structural upgrade.

If you're playing live drums, it's going to be loud as fuck and acoustic panels aren't gonna do a whole lot. I recommend keeping your drums at a local practice space for rent, which are soundproofed. Then for home use, get an electric kit you can play with headphones.

If it's downstairs neighbors angry, separating a guitar amp from the floor and seriously cutting the low end can help.

For vocals, even throwing a blanket over your head and mic can work. There are things called vocal tents that do this a little more comfortably. Something along these lines

Rack-mount interface for $200.00 is going to be hard. Consider a rack shelf.

https://www.amazon.com/NavePoint-Cantilever-Server-Vented-Shelves/dp/B008LUW49G/

I'm no expert on this, but have you looked into mass loaded vinyl? For example, https://www.amazon.com/Loaded-Soundproofing-Barrier-Highest-Quality/dp/B007N3356S

Acoustic Foam Bass Trap Studio Soundproofing Corner Wall 12" X 12" X 12" (4 PACK) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00TT7BGQM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_5rk2xb1GWX23C

I plan on also buying these bass traps. Do I put them at the bottom of the corners? And also is just one per corner needed or more

I've been looking at Owens Corning 703 and 705 and Roxul Rockboard 40/60/80. Both are easy to find online, but are very expensive to ship due to the size. For example this is Rockboard 80 which is comparable to OC 705. Price is $75, but shipping is another $50. I'm seeing comparable pricing anywhere I look online, with no bundled shipping discount for a larger order (4 packs = $200 shipping).

https://www.amazon.com/Roxul-Rockboard-Mineral-Wool-Board/dp/B006C10IR6/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=rockboard+80&qid=1557385655&s=gateway&sr=8-1

I contacted a local distributor today who stocked all of them. I was told $65 for a pack of Rockboard 80, 6 sheets 2'x4'x2". I'm going to check it out tomorrow to see if it's actually the price but I'll check back in either way. If so that'll be a damn good deal.

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Contact a local distributor (not Lowes or Home Depot, they don't carry them).

then get a condenser, and an isolation box: https://www.amazon.com/Portable-Microphone-Studio-Voice-Isolation/dp/B00G2KP10G

Cover the window with something like this. do it right, and you can remove it during the day to see outside, but put it in place at night to block noise & light.

My boyfriend just took a piece of this kind of foam, folded it in half and shoved it in the crack of doom. It works the same.

And just by the way you can buy that kind of foam for $9 on amazon, a piece big enough to do three or four cracks of doom