(Part 2) Reddit mentions: The best screws

(I've been meaning to add this as a tutorial on my blog but I've never gotten around to it. Hopefully, this will give me a start and the energy to follow through with it.)

1. Acquire jumping jacks, a big wooden clamp, a pane of glass and another wooden clamp (if you fear for your lens)
   
   
2. Find the hole in the side of the jumping jack. This is where the fire will shoot from.
   
   
3. Secure the jumping jack in the wooden clamp with the hole pointing across the field of view (not toward the camera!)
   
   
4. Frame up the shot as desired. (I wanted the flames shooting into the corners.) The fire will be bright, so set your camera to handle it in a way that will give you a long shutter speed even with the bright light so you can catch the spark trails. (I used a 105mm and cranked down the f-stop to 40, but if you have an ND filter that may be the way to go.) I also hung a black cloth across some light stands behind the jumping jack and waited until dusk so I could get a solid black background.
   
   4a) Put the protective pane of glass in between the fire and the camera. It may cause some glow and reflection, but it beats burning the coating off of your glass. After about 15 successful burns I was convinced enough to remove the glass for a few shots.
   
   
5. Light the fuse and be ready with the remote. Depending on your shutter speed, you may have a narrow window to work with. I waited until the moment the fuse burned down into the body to open the shutter.
   
   
6. Check out the results. Reload and repeat until happy.
   

A hardware store is your best bet. Take the sliding nuts (or threaded rail) with you to make sure its a good fit. Personally, I like the M3x8mm hex bolt with washers. Definitely cheaper at your hardware stores.

Sorry, had a storm a few days ago and the power went out. I got distracted and forgot.

​

I used 10-32 machine screws like these for the trunions. You'll need ten of them but buy plenty of extras. You'll have to cut the six for the front trunion very short since they will hit the barrel if left to long. The easiest way to that is to put a nut on the screw and then cut it to length, when you take the nut off it helps fix the threads that were damaged from cutting. DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN THESE! Since there isn't a lot of material for them to screw into it's easy to strip them. Put some Loctite on them and get them snug.

For attaching the trigger guard I used socket cap screws since the heads on them are smaller, there isn't much room for them. You will need five of these along with nuts.

Any hardware store should have these, I'm pretty sure I bought them at Lowes or Home Depot. You'll also need some type of threadlocker, I used Loctite Blue #242. The tap for threading the holes is a 10-32 tap (obviously) and it uses a #21 drill bit (5/32 will also work fine). If you've never used a tap before watch some youtube videos or something first. Go slow, use oil, and back it out to clear the chips frequently.

​

Here are some pictures of mine -

https://imgur.com/a/v4oDgAO

15 years and thousands of rounds without a problem. Rivets look better but screws work fine. It's currently painted with BBQ grill paint, I want to Cerakote it but I keep telling myself I'll do it when I eventually get around to replacing the screws with rivets. Chances are I'll never get around to it.

​

If you have any problems or questions along the way feel free to send me a message.

The majority of the build used 8020's so-called "economy" T-nuts: in slide in profiles. I bought a fair amount of the roll-in or twist-in type for the accessories like the electronics boxes I was adding to the frame after it was built, where I might not already know where they'd go to pre-load or be able to slide in later by just removing a plastic end-cap.

I also found a fair number of generics with longer hex head bolts for add-ons in black, such as:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00WW50A3I/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B015A3FC40/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Most of my bolts for the actual assembly are I think M6 x 16mm, 8020 has the blue-anodized or zinc coated ones, cap head / domed like your link.

Anything in the 40-series is waaaay over-strength for just a single human-weight type application - compare that profile cross-section to your standard office chair that just uses a curved angle-bracket type or tube for stiffness. So I wasn't too worried about the hardware being the "higher strength" type connections.

Sorry if I'm screwing this up, I've never posted before. I just had some questions and was hoping some of the fine folks here could help.

1. I'm working with walnut trying to build some bookcases for myself. The boards you see in pic#2 are 5" wide and and about 2 inches longer than they need to be and 1/16" thicker than they need to be. My plan is to biscuit joint them together making the boards 10" wide. (I only need 9-1/2") Is this the best way to put them together?
   
   
2. Do I need to joint & plane the boards before I biscuit them? I'm afraid 1/16" may not be enough wiggle room to joint+plane them. They can't be thinner than 1" exactly, as the tube steel is the same width.
   
   
3. If you look in pic#3 i'm planning on placing screws through the steel flanges into the boards, should I be worried about wood expansion? I'm have purchased these Brass Screws
   
   Any help to a novice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

Those ducts look like they were masticed which is perfect. This was the product I was talking about: https://www.lowes.com/pd/Frost-King-0-125-in-Foam-Plumbing-Pipe-Wrap-Insulation/1081449

One side is sticky, but being out and exposed to the elements might take its toll.

My suggestion is this, I warn it will take some work but it will be very worth it, and not that expensive while yeilding the best r-value bang for buck:

Get some foam board adhesive: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Loctite-PL-300-10-fl-oz-Foamboard-Adhesive-1421941/202020476

And get some sheets of foam board: https://www.lowes.com/pd/Kingspan-Insulation-Common-2-in-x-4-ft-x-8-ft-Actual-2-in-x-4-ft-x-8-Feet-R-10-Unfaced-Polystyrene-Foam-Board-Insulation/999972968

Your outside layer of foam board should be this: https://www.menards.com/main/building-materials/insulation/foam-board-insulation/johns-manville-foil-faced-polyiso-foam-insulation-4-x-8/w-n5075/p-1444438921381.htm

To start you should verify 100% that those duct joints are masticed good, and I mean good, all the joints should be full of it and no holes, no pinholes even. if not get this: https://www.amazon.com/Design-Polymerics-Mastic-Sealant-0-50-Gallon/dp/B0085UZBE2

Once they are 100% sealed you can start. IF you want layers of foam board (more r-value the better) the best thing you can do is use an unfaced foam board for your layers. Your outer layer should be the foil faced foam board. To attach your foam board to your ducts use the duct adhesive, you MUST use this specifically, other adhesives can degrade and "eat away" the foam and eventually the adhesive will fail and it will fall off. Obviously you will need to cut the foam board to spec to fit on the ducting. USe the adhesive to attach it to the ductwork, foil face out. You will then want to cover the seams with silicon or foil faced duct work tape, not duck tape. IF you want additional security for them to hold and not fall off or fly off with wind you can use a metal band strap. or self tapping screws with large zinc washers

metal duct tape: https://www.amazon.com/3M-Foil-Tape-3381-Silver/dp/B00A7I5L86/ref=sr_1_6?keywords=speed+tape&qid=1551224134&s=gateway&sr=8-6

metal strapping: https://www.amazon.com/DIVERSITECH-710-001-Galvanized-Metallic-Strap/dp/B00CD6WON0/ref=sr_1_8?keywords=metal+strapping&qid=1551224293&s=gateway&sr=8-8

metal strapping tension locks: https://www.amazon.com/Tension-Triglides-Webbing-Strapping-Adjustor/dp/B01JG09244/ref=sr_1_17?keywords=metal+strapping&qid=1551224293&s=gateway&sr=8-17


self tapping screws (need to be long enough to go through foam AND the metal duct work): https://www.amazon.com/Self-Drilling-Plated-Finish-Undercut-Phillips/dp/B00GYK2S7I/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=3+inch+self+tapping+screws&qid=1551224214&s=gateway&sr=8-3

Now since its outside the air inside will eventually still change to the outside temperature, but not as fast and less bleed off of temperature in the ductwork due to outside ambient temperature making the ductwork sheathing the same temperature.

I'm doing the same with plywood in my garage for a woodshop, following this guy. After a lot of thought I settled on it being the best alternative to drywall. Easy to put up. I'll use finish screws and always be able to easily take the walls down to get to wiring or rearrange outlets. Cant put a hole in it swinging a wild 2x4. And no one expects a wood wall to be perfectly smooth.

A little more expensive if you're paying retail. But I found a business on craigslist selling stacks of plywood half sheets for $3 in the materials section.

Probably not what you want to hear, but you'll probably need to get a new stickbox (desoldering the old one, soldering a new one). It's a straight forward process and hard to mess up, but the cost can be a big factor if you don't already own the equipment.
Video for reference.

Other option would be to just buy another controller off Ebay, open that controller and swap the guts with your old controller.

• Here is a [mini tool kit I use to open the controller] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009MKGRQA/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1) that I originally bought to open up my Macbook.
  
• the Triwing Screws on the Gamecube controllers suck, are probably rusted, and strip easily. Replace them with some new Phillips Screws.
  
• Here is a good video by Zenith about opening your controller.
  
  You can find a bunch of results for analog stick boxes on Ebay.
  
  Best of luck!

For the bike pump I would recommend these conduit clamps and some ati-tamper screws . It will not fully prevent theft but it will act as a deterrent. You could also add some solar lights like these to help light up the area so a biker could fix there bike at night and help deter theft.

Buy

($6)Wires:For the MOFSET mod

($1o)MOFSET

($6)Wire spades:For the MOFSET mod

($8)Assorted M3 Bolts:You need some for a few mods and for the bolts you will inevitably strip on this cheap wonderful machine

($13)Longer assorted M3 Bolts:For a few mods

($9)M4 Bolts:For one of the mods

($9)Metric allen wrench set:Had to order one of these since metric tools aren’t common round these parts

(~$20) PLA of preferred choice- You’ll run out of the sample bit quick so go ahead and order a roll or two to be prepared. You will note some upgrades require ABS so a small spool of that to your order will also help.

($6)M3 Lock nuts:Critically needed for a simple mod

($10)Threaded rod and nuts:Please note that this item seemed difficult to find online. I recommend going to your local hardware store and getting two 5/16” rods of at least 16” in length. They should have an assortment of threaded rod in various lengths available. Also note that the pitch of the threading matches the nuts you buy. Further instructions regarding this can be seen in Azza’s Z-Axis braces below.)

($6)9mm Wrench for the nozzle: Don’t wait for your first clog, go ahead and have this on hand to remove/change the nozzle. Note to only tighten/loosen the nozzle when heated.



Below is the order of printable upgrades I recommend but I suggest you mix in a few other prints along the way because this is a hobby after all and you should be having fun. It helps to have your quality as tuned in as much as possible for some of these so be patient and keep trying if you need to.

Print

Spool holder- temporary : Until you can mount your spool on top of the enclosure or any other personal preference.

Belt tensioner- print x2

Z-brace

Shielded stop button

Cable relocator : It’s a pain, but if you spend the time to do this and turn your extruder motor 90 degrees then you can get the full Z height without ruining your cables. It does involve opening all the cables to the PSU and feeding a few extra inches back through the cable chains.

Cable shroud : Looks nice if you do the cable relocator.


The following need to be printed in ABS:

M3 Bed Nut retainer: 10/10 upgrade. I know they look worse than the nice metal stock ones, but these help keep your bed level longer.

CiiCooler

Glass bed Holder


Now that the first major round of printed upgrades is done it’s time to shift to a few more supplies to pick up to really fine tune the machine.


Buy

($5)Radial fan: For CiiCooler

($5)Glue sticksThis and a glass bed is magic

($25)Borosilicate glass 8” x 8”

($26)Y-Carriage plate upgrade: This has been a nice upgrade as I now only need to relevel the bed every couple weeks instead of every print. Check out this guide for a ‘how to’ as well as a free upgrade by shifting your Y pulley over.

($15)rechargeable dehumidifier: For keeping in the bin with your opened filaments

($9)Extruder gears: Might be able to hold off on these, but will need eventually. If for some reason you have a Maker Select with metal X-axis blocks (V1 and V2, but not V2.1) then this is a must. You can follow this guide for a how to.

($28)Metal extruder plate and lever: Not needed, but nice.

($14)Noctua 40mm fan: Not needed, but makes the printer a lot quitter. A LOT quieter.

($50)MicroSwiss All Metal Hot End: The destruction of my PTFE tube by this point pushed me to doing this upgrade. If needed you can follow this guide for replacement. Remember to tighten/loosen when the nozzle its hot.

($6)Ceramic cotton: Tore off the stock one when replacing for the all metal hot end by accident. At least its thicker than stock

Now that the printer is in its final form, its time for the enclosure which is a stacked Ikea Lack hack.

Print

Spool holder

Pi Case

120mm fan cover

Fan grill

120mm fan PSU modification: I edited this to fit upside down since my PSU is mounted on the underside. This was nice since I blew the 40mm fan anyways so it made everything a lot quieter than before.

IKEA Lack filament guide

Webcam holder: This is one I designed specifically for the webcam I happen to have lying around. The camera mount piece can be changed out no problem though for what ever webcam you have or buy. The SketchUp file is included on Thingiverse for such purpose.

Buy

($20)2x Ikea Lack: Luckily there is one right down the street from me. I am located in North America though, so we do not have the STUVA, if you live literally anywhere else you may check in to this as an alternative.

($80)Plexi glass for enclosure: Could be cheaper alternatives, but it looks cool

($9)Foam pads for feet

($42)Raspberry Pi3: For OctoPrint. I also suggest using a different USB cable than the stock one provided by Monoprice or you will have issues.

($9)2x 120mm fans: Used for the power supply cooling and enclosure

($6)Rocker Switches so that the enclosure fan can be on for PLA, but off for ABS

($15)Dimmable LED lights

($10)8mm LED light connectors


Total:
$250 printer + $452 upgrades/parts + ~$80 PLA/ABS to date

To fasten the top to the cabinet? I didn't because most granite tops are held in place similar to how I did mine (so I understand at least.) A little construction adhesive in the corners and you're good to go.
However, when I do an undermount sink for my kitchen, I'll embed something like this:
http://www.amazon.com/Water-Insert-Fixing-Furniture-8x25mm/dp/B00KRXZB86/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1449846283&sr=8-3&keywords=furniture+insert+threads
.
With those in place around the perimeter of the hole, I can use any number of small brackets to fasten an undermount sink to the counter.

Sure!
Dein Username prüft übrigens aus.


The Light Units


The Chips x4: 98.6$

The Driver x1: 74.9$

CPU Cooler
x4: 55.96$

Thermal Adhesive Paste x1: 7.9$

4way pin for the coolers x1: 9$

Lights Total: 246.36$

Framing and stuff
Most guys build their framing out of aluminium profiles. I bought mine here from the %%% section: https://www.alu-verkauf.de/ALUMINIUM-ALUMINIUMPROFILE

Every country has its own manufacturers for these. Mine cost about 30$.

You also need cables. The veros are pretty flimsy. so take pretinned gauge x1: 9,95$

In order to screw the frame you might wanna cut holes swith a thread. This will do x1: 8.43$

Be careful these drills suck and break easily.

Screws x1: 12.98$

Wago Connectors
x1: 6.35;$

Were at about 315$.

Lets see what we can do with it.

1. Glue the COBs to the CPU cooler.
   
2. Drill the holes into the frame. You should plan that very carefully. Where to hang the frame, where you place the COBs...
   
3. Assemble and screw the frame. It should be a nice and tight framing.
   my frame is build with 6 L-Profiles in which the COBs just lay around and one center piece: Link to Pic
   
4. screw on the driver and check the cable lengths.
   
5. measure your needed cable lengths.
   
6. cut the cables, strip them and connect them to the veros. Watch this video, if you need any help. I wired mine in row, because i chose this particular driver.
   
7. Connect the driver output to a Wallplug using three of the wagos. PLEASE BE CAREFUL WITH THE CONNECTIONS!. I had one of these lying around. Everyone should have a cold device cable lying around somewhere.....
   
8. Connect the COBs to the driver. Please refrain from plugging in the driver while doing this :)
   
9. for testing, place the COBs in your direction on the floor and plug in the driver. U might need sunglasses, im not joking, its bright as hell. literal hell.
   
10. Connect the CPU coolers 4way y-cable to a sufficient power supply. Any Smartphone loader should do the trick. You need a few more wagos here.
    
11. In my case, i just placed the COBs losely on the frame, and connected the cooling units.
    
12. Plug in wall and grow weed.
    
    You might additional hangers, cold device cables and another power source for the cooling fans. If you decide to buy the MeanWell HLG-320H-2100B you will need to connect a 10kOhm potentiometer to the Driver. This is to dim the light and safe money in vegphase. The HLG-320H-2100A has a build in dimmer which you can access via a screwdriver. I would recommend A, since its easier to operate. You can also regulate the fans of the cooler via a 150Ohm poti. If you dont like the sound, you can run them at 1/3 to 1/2 speed.
    
    have fun!

I'm a first time homeowner in FL and am considering boarding my windows when the time is right.

However, in the past I lived in a stucco house with deep window casings where I could use Plylox, which are fantastic!

In this house with Hardie board siding and wood window sills, the window is not nearly as deep so plylox won't work. Is there a good mounting system that I can put into the window sills and reuse without having screw into the sill each time I need to put plywood up?

Edit: I guess I'd use something like this maybe? https://smile.amazon.com/Simpson-SPS25344-KT-Storm-Panel-screws/dp/B008BQ2CTW/

I am on my third psu now. Yes, that is the correct fuse and it supposed to be slow blow. It's an exact replacement.

Bad news is, I'm almost certain It's not just the fuse that is blown. The mk3's psu's are well known to fail, and while some people say that there are just bad apples, I think the psu can't handle the higher draw when printing higher temp materials. If you were to open up your psu, I'm almost certain you would find the permanent on board fuse soldered to the board to be blown as well, and possibly also one of the components busted and burnt where it failed. Prusa will replace the psu under warranty, but in my case it just happened a second time. Same thing.

So here is what I would do if I were you. Go on Amazon and buy this. Not only is this psu way more reliable than the cheap Chinese one prusa ships with, it is capable of much more and will not fail you. Well worth the 30 bucks. This is the mount you will need to print to attach it to the printer. This fits perfectly, and uses mostly the screws and nuts from the stock psu except for one kind of screw you need 5 of. I made the upgrade and it is so much better than the stock psu. It has a fan that makes the printer slightly louder and it runs intermittently, but it also gets rid of the ticking from the heated bet and makes everything run a bit smoother. You can either hook up the replacement prusa sends you temporarily in order to print the mount, or you can do what I did and hook the meanwell up next to the printer to print the mount then mount it properly. Just be careful if you do as there will be exposed terminals that could shock you.

There is a great write up on the prusa forum detailing exactly how to do this and everything you need

do not use those ez anchors. Those would be used for soild brick, or concrete wall. if i were you i would try to use something like this

http://www.amazon.com/Simpson-TTN25500H-Concrete-Masonry-16-Inch/dp/B000XZ9N5K/ref=sr_1_13?ie=UTF8&qid=1451329006&sr=8-13&keywords=5%22+tapcons

making sure that the tapcon hole is over the 2"stud and into the block. put as many as you can in there. hope for the best and hang onto the bracket. if it rips out, i would plan on cutting out the drywall as large as the bracket. mount a board to the concrete, then secure the mount to the board.

I recently got this set. I’m finding most makers use the largest size (M3), but don’t use the longest length (6mm). I often find that after adding desired spacers the installed grub screws are not long enough to reach. Switching the 4 or 5 mm originals for 6 mm work great.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073H68PJH?

I stripped one of my triwing screws while doing a joycon shell replacement and these fit perfectly as a replacement: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LZ2HVGM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_MNI0Ab1Q7RQVN

Trencher Shovel:

Manufacturer's site for specs: https://www.crkt.com/trencher.html

Amazon link for a better price: https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B01M0G10O4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Mounting Pieces:

Quickfists: https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B000CQPANY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

T-Slot Nuts: https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B009SWGLHW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Screws: https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00IZFS0VI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

You will need a Drill and a 3/8" or 1/2" drill bit. Drill out the stock hole in the bottom of the quickfist to make the hole larger, the screws will then fit through. Put the T-Nut in the bed-rail and slide it down to where you want it. Screw the Quickfist to the T-Nut and you get what you see above! Insert your tool of choice!

I did the same and ended up finding replacement screws the same size but with a Phillips head

EDIT: I noticed I didn't answer your question but if you do get it out, I think these were the ones I got but it was awhile ago so def make sure you check the size before getting them: https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-Stainless-Phillips-Tapping-Screws/dp/B01LZ2HVGM

I also ordered all these to complete the set up
5-Pack of T-Slot Nuts - Ideal T Slot Nut for Toyota Tunda & Toyota Tacoma Pick-Up Truck Bed Deck Rails - By Mission Automotive https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07739WXJB?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
The Hillman Group 44018 3/8-16 x 1-Inch Button Socket Cap Screw, Stainless Steel, 5-Pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IZFS0VI?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
Quick fist clamps https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CQPANY?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
Plus Washers at my local hardware store

HVAZI M2 M2.5 M3 Stainless Steel Internal Hex Drive Cup Point Set Screws Assortment Kit

https://www.amazon.com/HVAZI-Stainless-Internal-Screws-Assortment/dp/B073H68PJH/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1540570606&sr=8-7&keywords=metric+set+screw+assortment&dpID=41zlqbR9frL&preST=_SX300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch


Set Screw Set


I much prefer metric set/grub screws...the trick is don’t crank’em down...IMHO. you don’t get any better connection by over-torquing.

M1.4 x 5mm

Amazon 100x set

If you want the heads to be black, paint them or use a sharpie or nail polish AFTER screwing them in. The screw driver will strip anything you color them with.