Reddit mentions: The best thunderbolt cables

Without knowing more about your ingest workflow it's had to say, but you might be well served with a Pegasus R6/R8 or similar. That'll give the bandwidth to be ingesting a few cards at once and be duplicating to a portable drive that can go back to editoral. The fewer volumes I have to manage the easier I find staying organized. One 30TB volume seems a lot more manageable than 6 4TB drives floating everywhere. If you go the RAID/NAS route make sure you don't go too small.

A RAID could also be easier on the AEs if the DIT cart can be connected to the SAN and ingested that way. Instead of a couple hundred Mbps you could get in the Gbps range. Remember that standard gigabit ethernet won't be the answer for high speed transfers.

I know you have three laptops for ingest, but I'd try to build the cart around one laptop copying footage. Again, fewer moving parts is easier to manage. Having a utility laptop that can tackle other tasks is often useful. If you need to make proxy files in the field look into a NAS solution instead of a RAID so you can get two, three, or more computers hitting the storage concurrently.

---

On top topic of a DIT cart, put some thought into a cart. What it should have. I'd be looking for a big heavy UPS on the bottom to give the thing some stability. Maybe an APC2200? Not sure how worried you are about weight...don't use that if you're flying with it. Get your own network going on there if you have multiple computers. Also add a Thunderbolt dock and power strip on the top to give you more USB ports and power for all the travel drives that will show up. I'd connect drives to a laptop in the middle and look for a way to put a laptop on an arm on the side of the cart too. Needs to collapse down so the whole things is self-contained for transport. I'd use the middle laptop for copying and the side laptop for proxy creation.

Make sure you have all the cables on hand. Thunderbolt 2, USB2 B, USB2 Mini-B (old GoPro charging), USB2 Micro-B (old Android charging), USB3 B, USB3 Micro-B, and finally USB C. I'd have 1 each on the USB2 variants, 2 each on the USB3 variants, and 3 of the Type C variants. Gauge your own need for Firewire 400, Firewire 800, HDMI, Ethernet, and the requisite dongles. Might be wise to have a USB-A dongle and maybe an Ethernet dongle on hand for the Touchbar laptops. Even if you don't have a Touchbar they're coming. It isn't that much money (comparatively) to keep these kinds of things in a drawer, but it can make a huge difference if you have it on hand.

I'd probably trick my cart out with a mass charger and some Lightning and Type-C cables. Hit all the cables with some orange gaff or some sort of mark so that people don't carry them away. Might even tape the phone cables to the cart. Might seem excessive, but if you set that up people won't be filling up your power strip with their chargers or plugging their phones into your ingest station. 10 ports might be more than you need, especially since people shouldn't be using their phones too heavily on set, but the goal is to make sure your power strip isn't used on phones.

---

As for software, you'll have to consider your needs and what fits them best. I'm not a lot of help on that front. Haven't messed around with the options too much.

Here was my shopping list,

-PCIe eGPU enclosure for the WiGig card

-Thunderbolt3 (active) cable

-Vive Wireless Adapter with Vive Pro addon

-Spare battery with 20000mAh Qualcomm QC 3.0


https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B077YCR5LC

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01H5QF1GO

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N0X3NL5

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07GKHNBCT

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07GY7JZP4



I read about 2 dozen posts around the internet covering the topic of using the wireless adapter with external configurations for laptops. Many people had mixed results and I was hesitant to try it myself but I needed to figure out if it was possible regardless since there wasn't any clear answers.


I ordered the items that made the most sense to me in terms of price and quality. The eGPU enclosure I got was the most attractive and had a carry handle which I liked considering my intended use for this setup was going to be mobile. I went with an active Thunderbolt 3 cable due to the fact that it "should" in theory provide a better signal from the eGPU to the laptop. Finally, I got a spare battery based on the reviews that said the included HTC battery didn't last long and took forever to recharge. The battery I got was recommended by others in the reviews who said they had a Vive Wireless kit.


Once I got all the items I did the setup and fired up the Vive. Right off the bat it worked perfectly. With that said, some of the mixed reviews I was seeing from others trying the eGPU setup had commented on FPS stuttering/lag when moving your head and I did experience this slightly although it was intermittent at times. I also had a brief random moment where everything pixelated pretty bad as if the graphics suddenly got toggled to 1990 Nintendo mode.


In the end I was able to determine the following,

1. It is possible to run the Vive Wireless Adapter on a laptop.
   
   
2. The hardware of the laptop is an important factor in having a smooth experience with this setup.
   
   
3. Some tweaking and configuration work will need to be done to get a smooth FPS. Still a WIP for me to get the level I'm happy with.
   
   
4. Some games may not be optimized enough to offer crisp visuals.
   
   
   My testing of this setup was with an Alienware M15 and M17 both with i9 CPU, 2080 RTX, 32GB RAM, and x2 NVME M.2 SSD. I have an older Alienware 17 R5 I plan to test with soon to compare results.
   
   
   Most importantly, what I noticed in my testing was that there's some graphical loads that will bog down the FPS and cause slight stuttering and it's not yet fully clear why. For example, while in SteamVR home room area there was a few key spots that when I looked directly at them it would cause stutter if I moved my head left and right slowly but if I opened the Steam menu which added a transparent overlay on top of what I was looking at the stutter would go away completely even though I could still see the same thing behind the overlay. I read a lot of people tweaking SteamVR settings to smooth out the FPS and I have yet to get the time to fully dive into that part but I suspect it will likely work out to resolve the issue.
   
   
   The alternative setup I was wanting to test was getting the Alienware AGA enclosure and testing to see if that provided a better out of the box solution without tweaking settings. I found some people saying it didn't work at all and others saying it did. Considering the cable connection is different it still has me curious, as I believe the cable connection over the AGA is using an identical pipeline/bandwidth as Dell docking stations.

Yes! I just got it working on mine with no problems. :) (i mean, except for the fact that the trackpad appears to not work with clicks.... I have a bluetooth mouse anyway, so I'm OK with that. The trackpad DOES work for a click but I can't seem to get it to double-click and it's more of a hassle than a mouse anyway.....

​

Sorry to brag on this one but I was having all sorts of issues with getting mine to work with USB-C cables and such so I figured I'd give it one last shot for $20 with a cable I found on Amazon thinking it was a Thunderbolt 3 issue. My S10 is a Snapdragon variant (typical US one) with the phone in DeX mode natively (no screensharing option.... and no actual tricks to get it to accept it). I just hope it keeps working like this because it's really cool :)

​

But I picked up a cable for about $20 which is 0.5m long and when I plugged it in, it said "HDMI connected" right away.

In case you're wondering, this was the cable I bought: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07KLLMWR5/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I didn't have to do the play audio first trick. This is with a T-Mobile variant Samsung S10 (latest firmware which should be the June 2019 security version)

​

Trackpad, keyboard, and screen work just fine (except the button issue but the trackpad seems flimsy anyway). I'm actually impressed. This is exactly the experience I wanted instead of lugging around a heavy laptop.

Things to do while your waiting.

• Clear a space
  
• Figure out light house mounting
  
• Get floor mats for your designated space that you can map to the VR playspace
  
• Verify you have an open HDMI or Display Port for your Vive, as well as an open port available for your secondary display
  
   
  
  Keep in mind, you'll want at least a foot around your playspace with no obstructions. It really breaks the immersion when you reach out and hit the wall!
  
   
  
  If the 15 foot cables that come with it are not going to be enough, start planning for your extension now.
  You'll need an additional USB extender cable, and an additional HDMI or Display Port to Mini Display Port cable of the same length to extend the vive connection from your PC to your breakout box.
  
  This is how I successfully extended my vive 15 feet.
  
   
  
  Extension Kit:
  
  https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00C7RM2TG/ref=twister_B00HG1N6OS?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
  
  https://www.amazon.ca/Cable-Matters-SuperSpeed-Female-Extension/dp/B00DMFB5OK/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1467058952&sr=8-2&keywords=Cable+Matters+SuperSpeed+USB+3.0+Active+Extension
  
   
  
  Play space (9 Packs of these work out to 9.6 X 13.6 , pretty darn close to the perfect max playspace for the vive):
  
  http://www.walmart.ca/en/ip/red-and-black-connect-a-mat-4-pack/6000016933486
  
   
  
  Good luck, and be prepared ... because you wont want o be missing out for any longer than you already have :)
  

Hi SurfaceDockGuy and thanks for answering :)
I've put the monitor into DP1.2 mode - checked the dock update (I had the latest firmware). As for cables I use those recommended at the https://www.microsoft.com/surface/en-us/support/hardware-and-drivers/troubleshoot-docking-station-surface-dock#Check10 the101007 model = https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-DisplayPort-Thunderbolt-Compatible/dp/B00C7RJQPY .

On the flip side of the monitor there are two DisplayPort outtakes. When I connect to right one the monitor tells mere there's no DP-connection and the monitor will go into power save mode in 5 minutes. If I connect the cable to the left DP-outtake the monitor goes black (and the power save mode sign disappears). Then the monitor shows another info saying that it is entering power save mode but also it seems like it turns on - like the black screen is being lit. What I am trying to say is that there's a difference in behavior when I attach to either the left or right DisplayPort.

So I haven't been able to get any closer to get this to work with the docking station.
The advanced OSD only works when the monitor is actually showing my desktop but there's a shortcut to switch on/off DP1.2 by holding one of the navigation buttons for like 8 secs.


(thanks for finding out about U2415B and U2415. This probably means that it's possible to get this working somehow which is a good thing).

Btw I can see that my U2415 (by looking at the serial numbers last three digits) is an A03

Hi, sorry to hijack this thread but you seem to know what you're talkking about!

I have a Surface Book 1, dock, and U2879VF AOC Display. Using an active MiniDP to DP cable. (This one, as reccommended by Microsoft https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004CAGDUA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 ) The display when connected to the dock about 30% of the time will somehow stop recognising it's native resolution and switch to 1080p. This only happens when waking from sleep or connecting it after everything is powered off. It shows up as the correct device model in display manager, and power cycling / device disabling, driver reinstalling / disconnecting / reconnecting things over and over again it just won't give me full 4k resolution. I just have to keep unplugging everything and restarting until it descides arbitrarily to give me full resolution. It's also very unreliable at turning on the screen from sleep, and I get caught in a: nothings happened but the keyboard is lit... manually turn on the screen and then i get the windows disconnect sound, and i have to dance connecting and reconnecting hoping it stays outputting while the screen is turning on thing

The screen always works perfectly when connected directly to the MiniDP port on the Book directly. Always wakes, always correct resolution, never once had this problem, it only happens through the dock.

Any advice would be much appreciated, it's the only thing that I have to complain about with my SB :)

Running fully updated SP, Win 10 Pro and Surface Dock firmware.

Doubt it.

I found a seller is manipulating reviews on Amazon since late July. This seller has been using the same trick of bribing people for 5-stars reviews and has been happening for 4 months, exactly paying their reviews.

However, Amazon just allowing them doing so. The most amazing thing is that the gift card is worth $15, while their product only $9.99 at that time.

I reported it to Amazon from July, Amazon has done NOTHING. NOTHING!!!!

You can see that this product gain over 110+ reviews in ONE WEEK. Just ridiculous. :)

08-21-2019: 31 Reviews in just one day

08-20-2019: 30 Reviews in just one day

08-19-2019: 30 Reviews in just one day

Now. This seller owns 4 stores, I suspect they are all using the same trick of bribing for 5-stars reviews. They have prepared all these stores so they could continue selling products if one store gets taken down for false reviews. GREAT JOB!

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

Type|Item|Price

----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel Core i5-6500 3.2GHz Quad-Core Processor | $189.69 @ SuperBiiz
Motherboard | ASRock H110M-HDS Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard | $46.99 @ SuperBiiz
Memory | GeIL EVO POTENZA 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2133 Memory | $83.89 @ OutletPC
Storage | Crucial MX300 275GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | $83.29 @ NCIX US
Video Card | MSI Radeon RX 480 8GB GAMING X Video Card | $249.99 @ Newegg
Case | DIYPC DIY-N8-BK MicroATX Mini Tower Case | $39.88 @ Newegg
Power Supply | EVGA SuperNOVA G2 550W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply | $78.89 @ OutletPC
Operating System | Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit | $85.99 @ Amazon
Monitor | AOC G2770PF 27.0" 1920x1080 144Hz Monitor | $231.65 @ Jet
Keyboard | Cooler Master Devastator II Wired Gaming Keyboard w/Optical Mouse | $28.99 @ SuperBiiz
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total (before mail-in rebates) | $1139.25
| Mail-in rebates | -$20.00
| Total | $1119.25
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-01-09 18:20 EST-0500 |

Changed some things up and I'll explain why

CPU: the 6500 is the best price to performance CPU in the Skylake line up, and for $10 more, you get 0.5 better value score seen here. You could even maybe do a 6100, but you lose out on 2 cores (which isn't good for gaming since modern titles use core count).

Mobo: Same

RAM: Changed RAM to a better version. RAM frequency doesn't matter a whole lot (especially if you're not/can't overclock), it's the CAS latency that matters. The one you selected has a CAS latency of 16 where as the one I selected is CAS 15.

SSD: Gave you a cheaper SSD that performs similar to the Samsung 850 Evo, but you wouldn't notice the difference. Also, you get a bit more storage on it.

GPU: good pick, so left it the same. XFX and Sapphire are other well known and reputable companies that manufacturer RX480's, so you could maybe cut some cost there if those brands are cheaper.

Case: Same, it's personal preference really

PSU: The NEX series of PSU's have an issue with voltage that the G2 series addresses. You also won't need more then 550w for this and future builds as things are just going to get more power efficient.

OS: If you really need to cut costs, you can take this out of the equation for now and download and install the windows media USB install. It's full windows for 30 days, so you can save up another $100 in those days in order to stay within budget.

Monitor: Same, but another place to cut costs, do you need 144hz refresh rate? Personally, I don't think you do if you're just doing casual gaming and work, so you're paying for a premium feature you most likely won't use a ton.

As for the Mac, you can purchase this cord in order to run it as a second monitor. I'm not too sure if that's the correct cord, but I have one (iMac and a similar cord to the one I linked) and it worked for me.

If you have any questions, feel free to ask!

I use my 2013 macbook pro with this moniter. It is really nice and is just fine for my school work. I don't game or anything on it, just wanted more screen real-estate. All you need is something like this to connect it. It goes from the moniter to my thunderbold port on the computer and works great. I have my laptop closed when using the moniter, you just need to have the power source connected to it and you good. I could attach some photos if you like.

Yes, you will need a special active HDMI 2.0 adapter if you want to get 4k60 over HDMI.

The easier solution is to just not use HDMI - instead use DisplayPort. You will need a miniDisplayPort to DisplayPort cable to hook up your SB1 to the monitor (SB1 has miniDP, monitor has DP). This is a good example of the cable you need.

All for helping, but I don't need the gold, I do this for fun!

As for your windows 7 key, next gen games will run at roughly half speed until Mantle is released and fully optimized in December, so I would recommend going with windows 8. You may be able to swap your code for a windows 8 code at /r/softwareswap.

If you are waiting until the end of the year, swap the GPU out for a R9 290 without the X for £410

I am not quite sure what you mean by it must be intel, so this is what I got. The CPU is intel if that is what you meant.

The MOBO has a miniDP port on it, so that is all that you wanted I think.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant / Benchmarks

Type|Item|Price

----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel Core i5-3570 3.4GHz Quad-Core Processor | £153.59 @ Aria PC
Motherboard | MSI Z77A-G45 Thunderbolt ATX LGA1155 Motherboard | £94.00 @ Amazon UK
Memory | G.Skill Ripjaws X Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory | £57.98 @ Amazon UK
Storage | Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | £47.38 @ CCL Computers
Video Card | MSI Radeon R9 280X 3GB Video Card | £239.76 @ Dabs
Wireless Network Adapter | Edimax EW-7811Un 802.11b/g/n USB 2.0 Wi-Fi Adapter | £7.98 @ Ebuyer
Case | Corsair 300R ATX Mid Tower Case | £59.90 @ Amazon UK
Power Supply | Corsair CX 600W 80 PLUS Bronze Certified ATX12V Power Supply | £55.72 @ Amazon UK
Operating System | Microsoft Windows 8 (OEM) (64-bit) | £69.00 @ Aria PC
| | Total
| Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available. | £785.31
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2013-10-15 00:45 BST+0100 |
Edit: Forgot the wireless adapter... derp...

Edit2: For the MiniDP, I looked and looked and couldn't find a MOBO or case with one, so here is an adapter that you can plug into the Display Port to use like a miniDP. http://www.amazon.com/Fosmon-DisplayPort-MiniDP-Adapter-MacBook/dp/B007RQ3J7G

I could just be looking incorrectly as I don't know much about MiniDPs...

I know it's not the nicest setup, but can't you just pick up 2x USB-C to (insert desired video output here) adapters? I wouldn't pick up one that tries to do one on HDMI and one on VGA. If you're running 2x 1080p displays, go for dual HDMI out, even if it's on two separate adapters.

Unless you're trying to run some insane amount of peripherals, picking up a standard USB hub to run off the third USB-C port should cover whatever general usage needs you have. Plus, if the monitors have USB hubs on them, you can run the standard USB port through a hub and gain some easier to access ports on the displays.

These should work.

Alternatively, you could do a USB 3 (standard size) to HDMI adapter if you wanted to save a USB-C port, but you'd have to run that through one adapter first before you can use it. Personally, I'd go for the dual USB-C adapters, or you could do some more research into USB-C/Thunderbolt daisy-chaining for displays, but those monitors will be far more expensive than just picking up two ~$20 adapters.

Both Mac's and Lenovo's require a minimum of 45W to charge via USB, ideally 65W (watts) and that's only possible with USB-C to USB-C using a 45W+ capable cable (very rare, very expensive, and max 1 meter length), here is an example on Amazon:

https://www.amazon.com/Apple-Thunderbolt-USB-C-Cable-0-8m/dp/B078H9VQ5V/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=thunderbolt+cable+usb+c&qid=1568760505&s=gateway&sr=8-4

https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Certified-Thunderbolt-Supporting/dp/B01AS8U9KE/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=thunderbolt+cable+usb+c&qid=1568760505&s=gateway&sr=8-5

That said your "Xiaomi Power Bank 3 Pro" has a max output on it's best port, the USB-C port, of 45 Watts (15V x 3A = 45W), so it's not enough to charge a real laptop, only Fast / Quick charge mobile phones and perhaps some lower powered Chromebooks.

---

Basically get a power bank that can output up to 65W or even 100W easily on the USB-C port, and a cable that can handle that current too.

https://www.amazon.com/Lenovo-USB-C-Laptop-Power-14000mAh-WW/dp/B07D7W5KSQ/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=lenovo+power+bank&qid=1568760601&s=gateway&sr=8-1

https://www.amazon.com/Goal-Zero-SHERPA-100-PD/dp/B07VFY3DWX/ref=pd_rhf_dp_p_img_7?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=FCVPFKEYS4YPJA0WG9RT

Looks like a great deal for a 1440p monitor. I love my Dell U2713HM but at $500, it can't compete on price.

You'll need one of these to get 1440p. You could instead get a DVI adapter, but you'd need the dual-link kind, which isn't worth it's excessive price (if it's cheap, it's not dual-link and will leave you at 1080p).

I'd recommend against buying a mini-DisplayPort to DisplayPort adapter, as the ones I've used are one-way only, and in the wrong direction.

Good luck with the new display! Working in 1440p really changed the way I work.

Hi Retropug, I have a Hades Canyon NUC8i7HVK 8809G hooked up to an Apple Thunderbolt Display using USB C.

The cables I'm using are:

1. Apple Thunderbolt 3 (USB-C) to Thunderbolt 2 Adapter
   
2. Apple Thunderbolt Cable
   
   Some notes:
   
   

• The Thunderbolt Display did not work the first time it was plugged in. Used a HDMI monitor to find this driver: Thunderbolt™ Bus Driver for Windows® 10 64-bit for Intel® NUC Kit NUC8i7HNK, NUC8i7HVK to get it going.
  
• After installing the Intel Thunderbolt driver and getting the Thunderbolt Display working, there was a notification "this Thunderbolt device is not certified for PC use" each time I started up Windows 10. The notification can be switched it off using Notifications & Actions under "Thunderbolt Software".
  
• If the Thunderbolt cable is disconnected from the Thunderbolt Display it may take a few cable reinsertions into the display to get it to work again.
  
• Volume adjustments work fine, but I cannot figure out how to adjust screen brightness. The default brightness is not unpleasant though.
  
  Hope that helps!

ok, so it looks like you have two USB C ports and 4 usb ports. That one on the end looks likeit might be a ethernet connecting port. What you'll want is to get an HDMI to USBc cord like this one https://www.amazon.com/Adapter-QGeeM-Thunderbolt-Compatible-Pixelbook/dp/B07JW7GT7H/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=usb+c+to+hdmi&qid=1564276198&s=electronics&sr=1-4 You dont have to get this specific one, this is just to give you an idea of what youre looking for. Look for one that will make your drawing space the most effecient and comfortable for you and your tablet. (wont get in the wat, Wont put to much weight on the cords, that kind of stuff). I hope this helps.

I haven't had any issues with the ports. I use an external monitor pretty often, but just connect it with a HDMI to USB-C cable.

I also have the Apple USB-C Multiport but almost never use it. My last dongle is a USB-C to Lightning cable that I always have in my backpack for charging my phone.

If you search around you can find a lot of USB-C Hub adapters. Be weary as some are going to be pretty mediocre. I'd look deeper into amazon reviews or buy from brand names you can trust.

For anyone out there wondering, I finally got it to work, its actually very simple.

I bought a USB C to DisplayPort cable on Amazon and plugged it into my HP Omen 24.5 inch monitor. I've been playing with this setup for 4-5 months now and there haven't been any issues whatsoever.
You need to make sure your laptop has a USB C/Thunderbolt 3.1 port, it's the only way I know currently how to 100% run 144hz on a laptop.

You also need to make sure the monitor you're buying has a DisplayPort. HDMI right now seems to only run 60hz, and I haven't heard of a laptop that can utilize VGA and run 144hz (I know desktops can use VGA for 144hz). So your safest bet is USB C to DisplayPort.
I'll leave a link to the cable I used down here.


USB C To Displayport Cable,LANBO USB Type c to DP Cable 6FT(1.83m) With Aluminium Case Support 4K resolution for Apple New Macbook Pro 2017, Samsung Galaxy S8 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076DXSPDR?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

I have the Benq BL2710pt and couldn't be happier. Looks great, bezel is a nice matte black. All i needed was a Mini Displayport to Displayport cable and it works perfectly.

I do this. Just unplug the vive pro short cord from the wireless adapter and plug it into the linkbox, which then hangs down just behind your head. You'll obviously need different cords than the ones that came with the Vive Pro for linkbox to PC, as they are too short.

I noticed that the video cable for Vive Pro wireless short cord is sensitive to compositor errors. Many I could never get to work at all, but this one does:

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N12FB0W/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Any longer USB 3 A to A cable is fine, and you can just put an extension cord on the power cable. Use some zip ties or velcro wire wraps to bind all 3 cables together where they go into the linkbox, and then at intervals down the length of the cables so its basically one cable bundle going to linkbox. Less chance of snagging one cable and pulling it loose, less to tangle.

I still occasionally get compositor errors when starting SteamVR right after a switch, but a reboot or unplug/replug the video cable clears it. You will also likely need to change your audio settings in SteamVR every time you switch back and forth.

Is all that worth fiddling with? Eh. It's pretty seamless once you get used to it. If wireless isn't crushing your CPU and your picture quality is fine I would just stay wireless. You can always buy a bigger battery for longer play sessions, and have multiples to swap into. I didn't like wall adapter for wireless, the wireless utility keeps giving errors after an hour or so for me when I use a wall adapter for wireless power.

I wouldn't buy the Apple adapter. Too expensive with added bulk and complexity to be worth it imo. I bought this instead. It's just a straight trough cable thunderbolt to hdmi without the adapter. It matches apples style too which is a bonus. There are others as well if you search "thunder to hdmi" on Amazon.

My current best solution seems to be something like this:

Leave the Windows desktop plugged into monitors via DVI.

Two of these: Mini-DisplayPort to DisplayPort cables (from mac to monitors).

One of these: 2x4 USB Switch

That should let me run the two monitors and use their input selection to go between Mac and PC. The switch should let me just go back and forth with the KB&M.

To be honest, your easiest solution is to just connect your phone to your tv with an HDMI cable.

For iPhone: Lightning to HDMI Adapter Compatible with iPhone X 8 7 6 5 iPad HDMI Adapter Converter, Digital AV Adapter Adaptor, 2018 Latest 1080P Audio AV Connector(Charging Cable is Included) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07PXS38YF/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_cA4qDb0ZQEMC5

For Android: Anbear USB-C to HDMI Cable 6 Feet, USB 3.1(Thunderbolt 3 Compatible) USB-C to HDMI 4K UHD Cable for The New MacBook, ChromeBook Pixel and More (USB C to hdmi 4K@30HZ) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CZ9G7FJ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_lB4qDb6A08X21

I see. How do you know this cable in OP is not active? Because it supports USB 3.1? I did a quick search and it looks like this one might be the better option: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01H5QF1GO/?tag=reality&th=1&psc=1?

Pretty basic but, I'm a little confused with dual-monitors and 4K in general.

If I have have a full HD monitor and buy a 4K one too, what is the best way to set up the wiring and stuff?

Do i buy this cable here and plug it into the motherboard and monitor? And then do I just put a hdmi into both to link them?

On the USB C cable length thing. The limit of 0.5 meters applies to individual cables between powered devices so from the laptop to the EGPU is one span of 0.5m and then the signal gets rebroadcast on another span of 0.5m between the EGPU and display. You can actually daisy chain several devices this way and get full thunderbolt 3 the whole way as long as each span is under 0.5m and each device supports the speed. The total length is irrelevant. There are things called active cables that basically put a signal repeater every 0.5 m down the cable to get full speed without having to go optical.

Here is one that is 1 meter long with full 40gbs support for $50 https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Thunderbolt-Supporting-Compatible/dp/B01H5QF1GO

IDK if Grey will see this because of project cyclops but maybe someone else will find it useful.

Are you running the Vive through any kind of adapter? I often had problems getting the Vive to work because I initially had it going from the link box HDMI port to an adapter for Displayport.

I could get steam VR to work if I started it up immediately after a reboot but any more than 5 or 10 minutes after startup and I'd get a variety of errors including Error 400.

If you don't have a free HDMI port you might want to look into getting a mini DP to DP cable like this one

Also, HTC support loves to pass the buck to others. I'm surprised they didn't pass the blame to Steam though.

Here is the laptop :

https://www.fnac.com/PC-Portable-Asus-ROG-G702VM-GC074T-Gaming-17-3/a10025558/w-4

There is a USB-C port so I think it can work with the USB-C to HDMI.

Thanks for the idea, I didn't know it is possible to display via this.

Maybe something like that can works just fine?

https://www.amazon.com/Adapter-QGeeM-Thunderbolt-Compatible-Pixelbook/dp/B07JW7GT7H/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=usb+c+hdmi&qid=1565984360&s=gateway&sr=8-4

False. HDMI Out is what you are looking for. It stands for HDMI Output, which pushes a signal out of the port and into whatever it is connected to.

If that does not work though and the HDMI is for sure not pushing information to a monitor, then you could try a USB-C to HDMI adapter. I have used these many times and they work great.

I resolved it using the displayport cable. And for MAC i bought this cable and now it works perfectly https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7RJQPY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

edit: nevermind, I'm stupid

The posts in this thread are confusing me greatly. Proprietary? Too expensive? A 1.5ft thunderbolt 3 cable is $20. You could use a longer thunderbolt cable, but for the full 40Gbs bandwidth it must be an active cable, and then it will only have thunderbolt functionality (won't work as a plain ol' USB 3.1 gen1/2 cable, and I don't think displayport-alternate mode would work either). Depending on your use case you might only need 20Gbs of bandwidth- dual 4k@60Hz screens definitely need 40Gbs.

If your original question was "can I use a USB type-C to Displayport cable to connect to the docking station?" the answer is no. You need to use a USB type-C to USB type-C thunderbolt 3 cable of some sort (either 20Gbs or 40Gbs).

It's a digital cable, so quality is not really an issue.

Now to go deeper into it, TB2 and mDP port uses the same interface, so if you really need TB2(as in data transfer), $29 is about on par with what other vendors offer. But if you just need it for 4K out, a mDP cable is plenty good, and cheap-but-good ones are available.

mDP to mDP

mDP to full size DP

I like this brand a lot, they haven't failed me yet, and also cheap.

My 13" retina MacBook Pro late 2013 can output 3440x1440 @ 60Hz via a Minidisplayport-to-Displayport cable with no issues. The early 2015 one will also be able to do that easily. No need for an expensive thunderbolt-enabled ultrawide :)

A cable like the one here will to the trick just fine. It plugs straight into one of the thunderbolt ports on your Mac
https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-DisplayPort-Thunderbolt-Compatible/dp/B00C7RJQPY/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1485040281&sr=1-3&keywords=mini+displayport+to+displayport

I bookmarked a few:

• https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07BKSQ87S/?coliid=IQBRJI8L9BCN3&colid=OM2B2VCI3U3H&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it
  
  
• https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B01H5QF2TK/?coliid=I2BANNOFNG626W&colid=OM2B2VCI3U3H&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it
  
  
• https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B074JZVD2M/?coliid=I6RCMYNWI2BBQ&colid=OM2B2VCI3U3H&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it
  
  
• https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B074DT1C67/?coliid=I1JFP9QBQE6DOC&colid=OM2B2VCI3U3H&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it
  
  
• https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B01N9J47EG/?coliid=IP1TGZVKS9LTV&colid=OM2B2VCI3U3H&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it
  
  
  All 2 metres (6 feet) at 40 Gbps. Seems like better value? Never liked Apple cables if I have a choice.
  
  The Apple one is half the length at US$43.

I use CI as an API for a project I am on. I spent some time beating into shape so that it does what I want it to. I'm sure there are better ways but I'm invested now :)

For the 21:9 I bought one cable and just plugged it in.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7RJQPY/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

*Disclaimer: NOT an affiliate link and your mileage may vary.

This cable claims to support 144 Hz 1440p specifically, but I think all cables of the same type support it


USB C to DisplayPort Cable(4K@60Hz,1440p@144Hz),Highwings High Speed Thunderbolt 3 Port to DP Cable Compatible with Pad Pro/MacBook Air 2018,MacBook,XPS 15,Surface Book 2,Support HDR etc.-6ft/1.8 Grey

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07RGDJX1G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_N0PCDbAZ279SB

Not sure which one you were looking at, but most likely it would not support two screens. What you could do is get a USB-C hub, plug it into one port. Like this. That will give you HDMI, some normal USB ports, and a USB-C power input.

Then you could just get a normal USB-C to HDMI adapter like this.

$43 all in, and more versatile.

Yeah that's probably it. You can always get a displayport to Mini for rather cheap from Amazon or just unplug a monitor using HDMI to use your vive. ITS WORTH IT :D

http://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-DisplayPort-Thunderbolt-Compatible/dp/B00C7RJQPY?ie=UTF8&keywords=display%20port%20to%20mini&qid=1465496896&ref_=sr_1_3&sr=8-3

why does it have to be mini displayport? they have great cheap mini displayport to displayport cables...

http://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-DisplayPort-Thunderbolt-Compatible/dp/B00C7RJQPY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1404631404&sr=8-1&keywords=mini+display+port+to+displayport+cable

I have an Acer Predator x34 and I went insane trying to find a mini Display Port to Display Port for my 17. The thunderbolt slot worked however it only used the CPU to process graphics for whatever reason, and HDMI G-Sync isn't supported by the monitor so you might want to give a quick look at your manual. I had to buy a Mini DP to DP off Amazon and things have been smooth since then. Good Luck!
Quick edit: Cable in Question

Going by the size I assume it's 1440p? If that's the case, the GPU supports that resolution by DP and HDMI according to AMD's page about it, if your card only has mini DP you could use something like this

I suppose I could play it safe and use this: https://www.amazon.com/Thunderbolt-DisplayPort-Benfei-Display-Gold-Plated/dp/B06XFG1YKT/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1493089945&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=thunderbolt+3+to+displayport+adapter&psc=1

to go TB3-->DP-->monitor

You Mac Pro has Thunderbolt. It's best to use DisplayPort.

This cable will do

I have this USB-C to DP cable and it works perfectly for 3440x1440@100Hz.

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B007RQ3J7G?keywords=mini%20displayport%20to%20hdmi&qid=1457459873&ref_=sr_1_1&sr=8-1

I used to use this to use Kodi from my Macbook to my TV. Worked great. As for a remote, I was using Sybu on my iPhone from the app store to control everything.

Looks like you should be able to do it out the thunderbolt port with a cable like this one http://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-DisplayPort-Thunderbolt-Compatible/dp/B004CAGDUA

I got this one for use with my HD558s. I'm then running a 30 ft long headphone extension (15ft from computer to link box, 15 ft for Vive cable) back to a Behringer headphone amp and then a DAC. I also have other 15 ft extensions (DisplayPort, USB, power) from the link box back to my PC.

The end result? 30 ft of Vive leash, headphone cable is cable-wrapped back to a proper headphone amp and DAC. No plugging/unplugging, and good sound quality to boot.

Granted, take everything I just said above with the understanding that I don't have a Vive yet, and it might work great...or not!

I placed an order via Amazon for http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7RJQPY/ but will definitely keep monoprice.com in mind if delivery time is not a consideration.

cable I use: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N5RY8D7

Supports 3840 x 2160 @ 60 Hz (4K, Ultra HD), 2560 x 1440 @ 144 Hz (1440p, QHD), 1920 x 1080 @ 144 Hz (1080p, Full HD)

doesn't seem to go above 144hz? hmm.


picture of monitor settings, notice the maximum value it gives: https://imgur.com/6jdk95H

Sorry for the delay, I've tried so many I've lost count. When I check Amazon for Thunderbolt to DisplayPort usually it just says USB C and then Thunderbolt compatible. I posted here forever ago and was told the built in HDMI is 1.4 but if you go through USB C then it would be 2.0. My monitor has DisplayPort but my gaming PC connects to that so the other ports are all HDMI. I have tried DisplayPort adapters before also with no success but sounds like it might be due to HDMI. I just didn't want to have to manually switch the DisplayPort plug any time I change, but maybe that's the issue. Here's all the ones I tried without success on any:

​

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B01MYUCWOK/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B071VVZC2Y/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B074QLC62H/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B072M9LVZD/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B07G82ZW1D/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

Was about to try this one:

https://www.amazon.ca/DisplayPort-CHOETECH-Thunderbolt-Compatible-ChromeBook/dp/B01N11K30W/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1539183188&sr=8-1&keywords=USB+C+to+DisplayPort+Cable+4K%4060Hz%2C+CHOETECH+USB+3.1+Type+C+to+DP+Cable+%28Thunderbolt+3+Compatible%29+for+2017+iMac%2C+MacBook+Pro%2CDell+XPS+15%2F13%2CChromeBook+Pixel%2CSamsung+Galaxy+S9%2FNote+8%2FS8%284ft%2F1.2m%29

You should get a monitor that support DisplayPort. The u2417h is a good monitor. And you should get a usb c - DisplayPort cable that support DisplayPort alt mode.

Choetech

Plugable

I have used both of them. I have had no problems at all.

I believe it's this one but I would have to double-check when I get back to my office.

[Thunderbolt 3 Certified] Nekteck Active Thunderbolt 3 (40Gbps) Cables 100W (ONLY Thunderbolt 3 Port Compatible) for MacBook Pro ThinkPad Yoga Alienware 17 and More/Black 6ft https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074JZVD2M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_GbUKBb7Q4P5EP

I bought this one for $13. It was nicely made and it worked fine with my S8: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07JW7GT7H

Edit: Sorry, that one's not on amazon.ca.

Wow I posted about this at the same time as you.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7RM2TG

I am confused how this cable works. It claims to supports 2560x1440 @ 60hz, while the Vive pro is 2440x1600 @ 90hz. This one claims to support 4K: https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-Select-DisplayPort-Capable-115887/dp/B01KYD101U

Also, the Vive website said the Vive Pro is USB-C 3.0, but the pictures I see show it just as normal USB?

I only see that Crestron box going up to 1920x1200.

Actually, this Black Box claimes to support up to 2560x1600 over Displayport.
So...

I don't know which display you have. AND I've got a question. You said 15" Macbook Retina, correct? Don't they have two Thunderbolts and an HDMI?

If it has two Thunderbolts, try this:

Get the above Black Box. Get a Thunderbolt to Displayport cable. Plug said cable into Black Box. Plug an HDMI cable into the output of the Black Box into the display. Set output resolution to 1080p. Done? Think that'll work.

Alternatively, you might be able to daisy chain through the Cinema Display, assuming it is a Thunderbolt, using the same cable and box.

Thanks.

I was thinking of this one.

https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-DisplayPort-Thunderbolt-Compatible/dp/B00C7RJQPY/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1473263083&sr=1-1&keywords=displayport+to+mini+displayport+cable

You're good then. Use a Thunderbolt/Mini DisplayPort to DisplayPort cable and plug it into the monitor's DisplayPort connector.

If you need a long cable (6.6ft), this active one delivers 100w and a stable connection. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074JZVD2M/
I've been using it for a couple years with a NUC and then my Lenovo T480. No issues.

$49 is about as good as you'll get.

I believe that the x34 can reach 100Hz even without using g-sync it just can't do it over HDMI.

I am not super familiar with apple tech but would something like this be able to power your x34 with HDMI going to the apple display? With that you should theoretically be able to get 100Hz on the x34.

Fellow RTX 2080 owner here. I used this cable to connect my card to the breakout box. Only solution that works for me, as using a 'normal' DP to HDMI cable gave problems because I already have 3 monitors. Hope this helps!

Oh, gotcha! Thank you so much. I'm probably going to stop by MicroCenter and update. And just to clarify the tb2 cable would that be something like this?

I really have a hard time grasping tb3 vs tb2 vs usbc vs mini display port for some reason.

Not sure about that but I can tell you this will work for sure as I have this setup with a GTX 980.

https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-DisplayPort-Thunderbolt-Compatible/dp/B00C7RJQPY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1483312865&sr=8-1&keywords=mini+displayport+to+displayport

Yes but since your laptop only has a HDMI out it can get expensive I believe.

But I believe it's not as simple as getting a Mini-DisplayPort to HDMI cable, look for confirmation elsewhere but according to Wacom's website & other sources I have found.

You'll want a DisplayPort to HDMI converter...

Link - https://www.amazon.co.uk/StarTech-com-HDMI-DisplayPort-Active-Converter/dp/B004I6IYSM

You'll also need a Mini-DisplayPort to DisplayPort cable...

Link - https://www.amazon.co.uk/DisplayPort-Benfei-Thunderbolt-Compatible-Gold-Plated-3M/dp/B01N12FB0W/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?s=computers&ie=UTF8&qid=1505558301&sr=1-1-spons&keywords=mini+displayport+to+displayport&psc=1

That would be everything you need to get up an running. But your laptop only having a HDMI out up's the cost you'd need to spend sadly.

Full disclosure, I have a Wacom Cintiq 13 Pro myself, but I have a Macbook Pro with USB-C connectors, an a PC full of DisplayPort out's so it's much easier for me to get it connected.

For a displayport this is the longest. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00C7RM2TG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_2ZPZAbPB8108W

For usb just buy an active male to female adapter.

Yes, $9.95 is quite a lot.

Yes you can.

That monitor has VGA, DVI, HDMI, and Display Port inputs. Each of the laptops have HDMI and Mini Display Port outputs. You can connect one laptop with a normal HDMI cord. The other laptop can be connected with a cord that is Display Port on one end and Mini Display Port on the other like this cord.

Go with one cable rather than an adaptor and a cable. Something like this

I don't believe that MBP supports 4k60p over HDMI. So you will need to use one of the mini DP / Thunderbolt ports on your laptop. A mini DP to DisplayPort cable is what you need.

An adapter like this one or this would probably work.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01N5RY8D7/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1525800385&sr=8-1-spons&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=mini+dp

If you buy a cable like this you don't need adapter

My set up is pretty much identical to yours (4k with 2017 15"MBP). I use the following cable but do not run into any of the issues you are having

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N11K30W/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The only issue I seem to run into is when plugging the cable directly, my Mac will jump to the lock screen and I will have to unlock it.

They're the same (though I could swear there was another Mini DisplayPort; maybe a n thinking of hdmi)

Cable Matters® Gold Plated Mini DisplayPort (Thunderbolt™ Port Compatible) to DisplayPort Cable in Black 6 Feet - 4K Resolution Ready https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00C7RJQPY/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_6RTEwbZZB3TY6

Do you have the monitors set to mirror display or extend display? Mirroring only shows a copy of the built in display meaning that the aspect ratio would be off resulting in screen cropping. Another thing would be to get a USB-C to DisplayPort cable that way you can run the monitor at its native 4K@60Hz.

Edit: Found one on amazon that works with USB-C
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XFG1YKT/ref=psdc_6795232011_t1_B071D7XFGQ

Cable Matters Gold Plated Mini DisplayPort (Thunderbolt Port Compatible) to DisplayPort Cable, Black, 6 Feet (101007) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00C7RJQPY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_L6j.wbNKXHPCC

That's the on I got. Is it no good???

You should be able to use a thunderbolt/Mini DisplayPort to DisplayPort cable.

Like this one or I guess this one if you want to make sure it has to be thunderbolt.

I thought mini-displayport was the same as thunderbolt as long as it was 1.2 but not entirely sure.

Yeah this is the cable, should work since it's DP 1.2 compatible. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00C7RJQPY

If I buy a 2nd monitor that has a display port, I can just buy https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-DisplayPort-Thunderbolt-Compatible/dp/B00C7RJQPY?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s01 that right to get 144hz?

I'm probably fine with getting a whole new monitor. Have 1 at home during break and one to bring with me to college.

https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-DisplayPort-ThunderboltTM-Compatible/dp/B004CAGDUA

This one should be fine right? It doesnt have to be tb3?

Well, PCs do not include the Thunderbolt format for video, at least for now, so you will need an adapter for it to work. The card will likely have DisplayPort, so this adapter should work.

A cheap one it's display port to mini, I used a cheap display port to display port when I had a GTX 1080 in my pc with a 144Hz monitor as well with zero issues

Mini DisplayPort to DisplayPort 4K@60Hz 3M Cable, Benfei Mini DP(Thunderbolt Compatible) to Display Port Adapter Male to Male Gold-Plated Cord for MacBook, Lenovo, Dell and other Brand https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01N12FB0W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_8oL1AbC3P4ECD

I bought the following and works well with my acer monitor at 4K@60Hz (I also used with a 4K dell monitor, which
I don't remember the model number).
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N11K30W/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Having said that, I haven't tried it on high sierra.

you probably need to get a minidisplay port to display port. Your 15r3 has a minidisplay port and the monitor should have a displayport. This will allow you to use the monitors 144hz potential.
https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-DisplayPort-Thunderbolt-Compatible/dp/B00C7RJQPY/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1492988180&sr=8-6&keywords=mini+display+port

This cable is working just fine for me and it's 15 feet.

http://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-DisplayPort-Thunderbolt-Compatible/dp/B00C7RM2TG

I am not too familiar with Macs. If the back of the monitor has a thunderbolt port (mini display port) then this right here should work fine. Just plug into the back of the monitor instead of the cable coming from the monitor already.

I've been using this one for about 2 weeks and it works flawlessly. Delivers the right amount of power and bandwidth.

https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Mini-DisplayPort-Black/dp/B00C7RJQPY

The one linked looks like 1.2, but it should do 4k at 60hz though.

I don't see Cablematters here:

https://www.displayport.org/product-category/cables-adaptors/

https://www.displayport.org/cables/how-to-choose-a-displayport-cable-and-not-get-a-bad-one/

I am using a thunderbolt to display port. Here is the amazon link: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00C7RJQPY/ref=cm_
sw_r_other_apap_Xw8EVngTYRFUk

I can't seem to get my Display Port cable working. It's a DP to mDP as it says and shows in the setup instructions (this cable is not provided). My 980Ti has 3 display ports, one HDMI and a DVI output. I'd like to be able to mirror to the TV via HDMI if it's possible.

I bought this , but no matter what settings I adjust in the SteamVR settings menu, nothing seems to work when I try to connect it via display port. So for some reason it's either not sending a signal to the head unit or the display port is not sending a signal to the break away box.

It works fine if I use HDMI to the breakaway box though.

Any suggestions?

no I have a mini display port cable to display port cable.

like this one: https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-DisplayPort-Thunderbolt-Compatible/dp/B00C7RJQPY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1469586527&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=mini+displayport+to+displayport&psc=1

I have a 2011 MacBook Pro, I use minidisplay to hdmi and minidisplay to full size DisplayPort all the time

Fosmon Mini DisplayPort (Mini DP/mDP/ ThunderBolt/ThunderBolt 2 Port Compatible) to HDMI Adapter Cable - White - 6ft (1920x1080@60Hz) https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B007RQ3J7G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_dF4CybGPY72GV

Apple doesn't make a cable or adapter to output full sized DisplayPort.

Get one of these: https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-DisplayPort-Thunderbolt-Compatible/dp/B00C7RJQPY

Any monitor which has a HDMI port, Display Port or Mini Display Port will work, up to a resolution of 2560 x 1600. Plug it into your Thunderbolt port.

https://www.amazon.com/Adapter-QGeeM-Thunderbolt-Compatible-Pixelbook/dp/B07JW7GT7H/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=usb+c+to+HDMI&qid=1563574050&s=gateway&sr=8-4

Plug that baby into your USB-C port, plug the monitor into that. Done

google it before you post.
https://www.amazon.com/Thunderbolt-DisplayPort-Benfei-Display-Gold-Plated/dp/B06XFG1YKT/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1494883525&sr=8-2-spons&keywords=thunderbolt+3+to+displayport+cable&psc=1

those are two mini display ports there:

you can go directly to your benq moitor and go back to using your vga adapter:

http://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-DisplayPort-Thunderbolt-Compatible/dp/B00C7RL33M/

if the monitor has a DisplayPort input, use that rather than HDMI (older MacBooks max out at 1920x1080 via HDMI when using adapters). amazon has some that are fairly cheap.

The Vive's breakout box has both HDMI and Mini-Displayport ports but the DP cable is not included. So if you're planning on using that, you'll wanna get one of these guys.

Correct.

edit: this one would work.

http://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00C7RJQPY

or DisplayPort, using one of these cables

I use mini display port (link box) to display port (graphics card). Works for me.

Link

1. Link State Power Management is currently set to off
   2 this is the cable https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7RJQPY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I ordered this https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N12FB0W/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Oh. That's on me. Here you go:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01N11K30W/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1498195700&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=usbc+to+displayport+60hz&dpPl=1&dpID=41vJMo-sDgL&ref=plSrch

This one

I am not using a splitter., I am using a USB C to Display port Cable, an HDMI 2.0 Cable, and a Mini Display Port to Display Port Cable.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7RJQPY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01EXKDRAC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B014I8SSD0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I guess it's something to do with the mdp to hdmi adapter.

try this:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7RJQPY?gclid=CjwKEAiAmdXBBRD0hZCVkYHTl20SJACWsZj9TtXG5VI2PNRJbEuVf4YouZBDl3u-SQ8un2QsmulIGBoCdXfw_wcB

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7RJQPY?gclid=CjwKEAiAmdXBBRD0hZCVkYHTl20SJACWsZj9TtXG5VI2PNRJbEuVf4YouZBDl3u-SQ8un2QsmulIGBoCdXfw_wcB

I Use a Thunderbolt to HDMI cable with my MPB

That cable seems very similar to the one I bought https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074JZVD2M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_XbA3Ab5S19J20 which did not work sadly. Thanks for the suggestion though.

The instructions recommend using Displayport to Mini Displayport if you don't have a free HDMI port. I'm not sure why you would bother trying to get anything else to work if you don't have to.


I use this cable and it works flawlessly.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N11K30W/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I’m not entirely sure but I’ve linked what the cable is that I use.

For 11 cad$ (or 8 us$). Don't know how trully reliable it is, but with almost 1100 reviews and 4.5 stars... You can't really say that about 10$ ain't worth the risk...

https://www.amazon.ca/Fosmon-DisplayPort-ThunderBolt-Compatible-Adapter/dp/B007RQ3J7G/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1480046077&sr=8-1&keywords=mini-displayport-to-hdmi

No worries. In a nutshell, I had to replace one of the cables that go from the linkbox to my computer. If you look at the linkbox (the side that feeds cables to the computer) you'll see a small, empty slot. This is a mini-Display Port slot (miniDP). On your graphics card, you should see at least one full size Display Port slot (DP). I removed the HDMI cable that goes from the linkbox to my comnputer, and replaced it with a miniDP to DP cable, like the one in this link: https://www.amazon.com/Moread-DisplayPort-Gold-Plated-Thunderbolt-Resolution/dp/B01N5RY8D7/ref=sr_1_4?crid=3FE9LWVKCFXKU&keywords=mini+dp+to+dp&qid=1574170432&sprefix=minidp+to+%2Caps%2C213&sr=8-4

Hope this helps. Of course, this may not be your issue.

HDMI doesn't like > 1080p resolutions.

I use these for 1440:

http://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-DisplayPort-Thunderbolt-Compatible/dp/B004CAGDUA/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1412184454&sr=8-3&keywords=mini+displayport+to+displayport

This will probably do the trick correct?

Yes. I'm not sure how the Vive gets the sound in this case. Through the USB?

Just use a displayport to mini displayport cable. Use a 15 foot one on my Vive.

No conversion needed, $10 DP -> MDP

I use a 15 foot extension for both my USB 3.0 and display port with no issues.

[Display port cable]

(USB 3.0 Extension)

Did you buy it from the same company? Try a different brand. I also had the same problem as you and ended up going through the same research process, and I ended up purchasing this 6 feet TB3 cable that's worked for me since and never had problems with. I also use the Aorus gaming box, the 1080 variant, which shouldn't make a difference.

I've used this cable

successfully:
https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Mini-DisplayPort-Black/dp/B00C7RJQPY/ref=ice_ac_b_dpb?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1536439718&sr=1-4&keywords=displayport+to+mini+displayport



HDMI I've had trouble with.

I got this one: https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00C7RJQPY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 but you want to look at HDMI am I correct?

I have not been able to find a reliable cable for that so I use a dongle with a proper HDMI 2.0a cable to get to the 60Hz. Which overheats my laptop to no end.

Mini DisplayPort is just DisplayPort in a different form factor. All mDP to DP cables are passive, and should have no trouble running 1080p @ 144Hz. I've been using this cable to drive my Predator X34 @ 3440x1440 100Hz.

[I’m just using this cable](USB C to DisplayPort Cable 4K@60Hz, CHOETECH USB 3.1 Type C to DP Cable Thunderbolt 3 Port Compatible with 2017 iMac,MacBook Pro,Dell XPS 15/13,ChromeBook Pixel,Samsung Galaxy S9/Note 8/S8(4ft/1.2m) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N11K30W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_YFoMBb71A5C8E). I run a Dell S24716DG and haven’t experienced any slow down or lag. The fans don’t turn on any more or less than usual. I typically just plug it in and use the monitor only and it’s just moving to a bigger screen. I’ve ran two monitors and the laptop screen without any issue either using a cheap hub from Amazon that has since been broken.

And you will need a hub or a seperate power cable connected to the other port to charge it. DisplayPort doesn’t have power delivery