SILK PLA is amazing. it DOES have serious issues. the stuff is crazy strong but very very poorly sticks to itself (brittle layer adhesion) Print it hot 220c higher if the plastic behaves for you.

so thin parts? forget it. your not likely to get it off the bed without cracking it (use ultra base)

and even 3 perimeter 25% infill grid parts can "snap" if the nozzles catches an edge (broke my adalinda dragon a few times) and if you drop it it will break.

BUT the results are simply stunning.

Here are some links (gold is not in stock that I can find right now) these are direct non affiliate links. if you want to help me out goto todays3dprint.com and use any of the links their (and then these links) but you don't have to.

Silver (I have not tried this one but they all print the same)

https://www.amazon.com/Silk-Silver-Filament-Printing-Material/dp/B06XSBFB17

Copper
https://www.amazon.com/Silk-Copper-Filament-Printing-Material/dp/B0761PMW3X

if this one was prime I would be ordering one as it looks VERY nice.

These from 3d Solutech are dirt cheap and some of my favorites! I have printed with all of them except the lavendar. I have it just have not used it yet in a print.

They call them "ultra pla"

Yellow

https://www.amazon.com/3D-Solutech-Filament-Dimensional-Accuracy/dp/B01B5KACX8

sample print Drogon

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ImOW0N1LNSA

Blue (my favorite)

https://www.amazon.com/3D-Solutech-3DSUPLA175BLU

Sample Print Adalinda (75 hour print truly stunning)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qZV0LTx-MlY&t

Green (out of stock right now)

https://www.amazon.com/3D-Solutech-3DSUPLA175GRN-Dimensional-Accuracy/dp/B01B5KPNUK

Sample Print. Aria Dragon (another truly stunning model)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3g-5oyVsyRA

White

https://www.amazon.com/3D-Solutech-3DSUPLA175WHT-Dimensional-Accuracy/dp/B01B5KFRHO

Sample Print (Loubie Swan)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DOavv-K-mYw

Red (really pink I have yet to find a true RED silk they all come out pink)

https://www.amazon.com/3D-Solutech-3DSUPLA175HPK-Dimensional-Accuracy/dp/B01B5LIL58

Sample Print (faceted Tree)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZbuFM0UUo2c&t=100s

Here is the GOLD I used (sample print squirrel)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DOavv-K-mYw&t=420s

but its not available right now (not sure if it is coming back or not)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XRPYXP2

again. its a PAIN IN THE ASS filament but damn are the results incredible. worth the suffering :-)

again the links are "clear" direct links. if you want to help me visit one of the links to amazon in my videos first which will help me out. or use the direct links here if not.

in general search for "ultra" or "silk" PLA.

Poly Alchemy ALSO makes some disgustingly gorgeous SILK PLA's !! check out Night Shade and Night Sky in particular to be truly awestruck with the beauty of these filaments

Here are some higher resolution images of some of these filaments

Poly Alchemy Night Shade (stunning and dark)
https://i.imgur.com/tyMb4Xn.jpg Another
https://i.imgur.com/fphprtA.jpg

Poly Alchemy Night Sky (I love this one)
https://i.imgur.com/BWv59dv.jpg Another
https://i.imgur.com/9zz93el.jpg

Poly Alchemy Bubble Gum
https://i.imgur.com/6WyaMIY.jpg

Elixr is NOT CHEAP $30 for 750 grams or something like that. (its around $50 a kilo)

in the US Printedsolid.com sells it.

3D Solutech Ultra Green
https://i.imgur.com/5n7nQZx.jpg

As you might be able to tell I REALLY like these plastics :-)

As far as quality gains you'll experience from changing over to a Bowden/E3d v6 is that you're lightening the overall mass of the Hotend carriage.

If you stop and think, the gantry is carrying the load of the stock Hotend as well as the weight of the stepper motor and the enertia it's contending with in those back and forth movements which can cause defects in your print if your frame isn't solid.
Is not a design flaw, but just an effect of the design.
Like I mentioned earlier you're limiting yourself with exotic filaments with a Bowden, but you're shedding weight to reduce vibration and gaining the opportunity for more speed without having to reinforce the frame a great deal.
But look at extruders like the Titan. These are high performance direct drive extruders that are lighter than stock, but still heavier than a Bowden but you keep the benefits of printing any filament you like.
As well as you don't have the bad characteristics of A Bowden. The Teflon tube that will run from the extruder to the Hotend on a Bowden system, that guides the filament will have a bit of 'give' in it when the extruder is pushing and pulling the filament.

Here is a crude way of describing it...
Let's say for the sake of simple math, that it takes 1 pound of pressure in your stock, direct drive extruder to properly push the exact amount of required filament required for laying a line of plastic onto the heat bed. Now realistically that pressure changes constantly but let's just say you need a consistent 1lb of pressure all the time. It only has to travel a couple of mm's before it's in the Hotend.
In a Bowden system, the extruder pushes the filament through the long Teflon tube and the tube will give way to that pressure. So though your extruder is pushing at 1lb, by the time it reaches the Hotend its only seeing 0.95 lbs because of the tube absorbing some of the pressure. You can compensate with firmware to tell the extruder to actually push 1.05lbs so that when it reaches the Hotend, it's getting the 1lb that it needs. But it's never really 100% accurate. And if your firmware isn't set perfectly you'll see it in the print, like uneven layers and such. Not a very elegant explanation but I'm typing from my phone.

PETG is stronger and much more heat resistant than PLA. PLA is good for whatnots and things you'll sit on your desk that don't need to be structurally sound. PETG is used for things like printing a hook to hang a rolled up extension cord out in your non climate controlled garage and it not break under the weight over time.
PLA is super easy to print and has a broad window of settings to get a nice print. PETG is not as forgiving in the settings department and you have a narrow margin for error. But once you get it dialed in, it prints like PLA. I mentioned polycarbonate earlier. It's even stronger and more heat resistant and you could print chain links with it and hang your front porch swing on it. But it's damn unforgiving and I struggle with it to this day.

Here is the cleaning filament I use. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MVIYNFW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Q8bkDbV3KFZDT

I only use it when going from one type of filament to another. Like from PLA to PETG. Just changing colors of the same type of filament you wouldn't need it. It's the temperature differences between the 2 that cause jams. PLA prints around 190C. PETG is around 240C. That reminds me of another benefit of the E3d v6. It's all metal and can handle the hotter temperatures of filaments like PETG. You have a Teflon liner in the throat of your stock extruder. I think it's only good up to about 210C.

I haven't really shopped for SLA printers. Consumer SLA printers are still in their infancy. But what I have stumbled across are very small. Like only 6 inch by 6 inch build volumes for $200-$300. And you're limited to the resins that are available. I think only PLA type plastics are available right now. Nothing you could print anything functional with.

Built one last week:

You don't need anything but what the printer comes with. However, there are things that make it much easier:

• 2.5, 2.0, 1.5mm ball-end hex (Allen) screwdrivers for most of the screws. I have a set of Wihas, and they're awesome. You'll want a dedicated 2.5mm for your printer.
  
• 5.5mm hex nut driver for the nylock nuts (again, Wiha makes awesome tools)
  
• Small side-cutting snips for zip ties
  
• Small screw clamp or large pliers for seating captive nuts
  
• Extremely well-lit work area, headlamp, or portable light. When you get to the electronics steps, I don't think there is an orientation where the printer doesn't cast shadows into the enclosure.
  
  Once printing, there are some things you'll want:
  
  
• SD card reader (printer takes full-size cards)
  
• Extra SD cards (so you can slice and prep your next print while your other card is in the printer)
  
• Filament a little more exciting than the included silver. I recommend Hatchbox from Amazon. Everything but their Red seems to print amazing with the included "Generic PLA" profile in Slic3r PE.
  
  Some things I messed up:
  
  
• Use the online instructions
  
• The online instructions have comments at the end of each section--which are easily visible--and after each step, which requires a click to show. Read both before starting any section. Re-read those for each step before that step.
  
• Read the entire step of instructions all the way through before beginning
  
• Don't use a ball-end hex (Allen) wrench for the extruder gear set screws. The sockets aren't deep enough for a ball-end to tighten. It will feel tight, but not be tight, and you will get extrusion issues.
  
• When you finish up the hot end, all your wires need to be extremely tight to the assembly and not sticking out--especially to the left or right. The printer calibrates by "feel" and if there is any resistance caused by wires at the end of your X travel, the self-test won't pass.
  
• Seriously, just ignore the feet until it's passed a self-test. Then, make your third print a set of these: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2796596
  
• Once you pass a self-test and have a successful first print, flash the newest firmware. It has working filament detection and some other nice features.
  
  Honestly, it's going to be a long process. I suggest you plan on breaking it up over a few days if you can resist the urge to plow through. Take a 30-40 minute break after each section at least.
  
  You're also going to get more and more unsure as the process progresses. Have faith in the instructions, and comfort yourself that the printer won't do anything until a self-check is passed at the end. If you take a bit of time and have a little patience, your first print is going to feel amazing.

I too love to build kits and I am going to school for computer engineering, and my Ender 3 is amazing. After some help from tuning and a firmware update, it prints amazingly and is extremely accurate. it takes a couple hours to set up, and to tune the printer to be perfectly dimentionally accurate, but I can say that was all worth it after I got the results from the prints. Since you have a little higher budget than the printer actually costs, I would advise buying a few upgrade kits for it also. I just put a BLTOUCH sensor onto mine, and I wish I had done it in the first place. It makes leveling a breeze, and makes the prints come off the bed extremely easily and smoothly. It also makes changing of build surface easy, as you don't need to relevel the bed every time you swap build plates. Also the bowden extruder that comes with the Ender 3 is not very good, but a machined aluminum one is relatively cheap, so I would also buy that right off and just replace the included one. After that is all said and done, you will still have some money left over for filament too.

https://banggood.app.link/09A68ozu8Y
https://banggood.app.link/4WoAcfDu8Y
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07QHBNYD9/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Ic4uDb9KN8J3Q

I also recommend Hatchbox PLA or Inland PLA+, as I have had great experience with both.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00J0EE1D4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_0d4uDbADZH76K
https://www.microcenter.com/product/504219/inland-premium-175mm-gray-pla-3d-printer-filament---1kg-spool-(22-lbs)

TLDR; Ender 3 with linked upgrades and hatchbox or Inland PLA+. Happy Printing!

Typically if a part of a model doesn't print, but later pieces do it's pretty safe to presume it's something to do with supports.

As for hollowing, I'm chasing that dragon myself. I've noticed The hollowing function will cause "artifacts" that show up on the first layer of the print when it's sliced and previewed, and they ruin the model. I've had some success with MeshMixer, but the last model I tried to hollow wound up with cracks in the base, so I stopped until I can spend more time researching how to fix them.

Resins - people are using a lot of Elegoo brand resin for their minis. A lot of positive buzz surrounds the Siraya Tech Blu resin, but be aware it needs to print in a warmer environment, 25C or warmer. I have used the sample translucent green to good effect, and I'm working through a bottle of Anycubic white that is similarly working quite well. I've got some of the Elegoo gray and Anycubic plant-based resins sitting in my workspace that haven't been opened yet. I have high hopes for the elegoo and no idea on how the plant-based resin will do.

No idea if anyone makes an auto-refiller for these printers. Good idea though.

Not from Prusa, but here are some other things I use over and over and over and am glad I bought. These are not affiliate links and you can probably find some of these items cheaper elsewhere:

Thin craft spatulas for removing prints: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075SLTY8B (some say "never scrape using a metal tool" but these are very thin and flexible and really help with some prints)

Cleaning filament: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MVIYNFW

Silicone socks: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07779TP4S

Good quality hex drivers https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0006O5014 these will make assembly and maintenance MUCH easier than the included tools. Especially the smallest one that fits the set screw in the Bondtech extruder gear really well, much better than the "decent" hex keys I already had in my toolkit

Hey I also new on this, got my printer a month ago, I was super exited as everyone here when receive their printer, I read a LOT while waiting for the printer, so I heard that the stock bed springs are crappy, so I ordered this ones FYSETC Bed springs, also ordered the Aluminium Extruder feeder, and read about the leveling, the paper sheath method, which I think you should already heard about, I did it at the first time the printer gave me a nearly perfect first print (demo dog) , after a few prints and on my third print I came home just to find a mess on my printer, so I did my research again, find out it was bed adhesion, and find out that the best way was glass bed + PEI sheet was the best option, while waiting to arrive I tried to clean the stock bed sheet with mineral spirits (did have rubbing alcohol) but it worsened the adhesion, so I used one adhesion sticker that comes with the overture filament, and again flawless adhesion, at least for the first 4 prints, then again the frustration, I tried some glue stick and worked but it leaves a mess on your print so I decided to try painters tape directly onto the aluminum bed (which lucky for me it is perfectly flat) this is the best adhesion I have tried, problem is also makes a mess with the down face of the print, Finally mi Gass-PEI arrived, (3 days ago), it has a great adhesion but is not perfect, also you have to raise the Z limit switch to compensate the 5~ mm of Glass-PEI, find out that it isn't perfectly flat it has a good adhesion and leaves a very smooth down face, but at some section it does't sticks well and leaves artifacts on the down face, I'm currently working to fix this.

Sorry for the long post, need to talk about my frustration and let you know you are not alone on this, once you manage to make a good print is very satisfying, I have a PETG filament waiting to be used but I don't think is a great idea to try it until a learn more about 3D printing and the Ender.

A TL;DR + details for those that don't want to read through the whole album:

I made this numpad for a friend of mine to go with an RF-87U 55g that I was selling him. He wanted a hand in it, so a lot of what you see is his idea, and he helped me do about half of the wiring.

This numpad is made with a 3D printed case, DSA Otaku key caps, Cherry Clears, and a Teensy 3.2 to power it all!

Here is a link to the filament, if you're interested.

This is my first time diving into any sort of custom keyboard project like this. Never done any wiring, never programmed a Teensy (or Arduino), and we were a little afraid of how it was going to turn out. I'm very happy with the result!

If you have any questions for me, feel free!

EDIT: Added some links.

Those couplers are trash and so is the PTFE tube they sent. They may work for a while but you'll want to swap them sooner rather than later. Here's a list of upgrades you'll probably want to do. You'll also want to look up a tutorial on how to upgrade your firmware so you can activate safety features (thermal runaway protection specifically). This also doesn't include a BLTouch or EZABL (auto bed levelers) as I have yet to make a choice personally.

Couplers and Tube:
SIQUK 3 Pieces Teflon Tube PTFE... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FPJHRTQ?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Metal Extruder: ( original plastic one will wear out or break)
Ender 3 Creality 3D Upgrade... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07KSS8FRQ?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Bed Springs: (more than needed but oh well)
SIQUK 16 Pieces Heated Bed... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07K9PBML5?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Glass Bed: (goes on top of print bed which is usually warped, printing on an uneven surface not so bueno)
Creality Upgraded 3D Printer... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DS2LZF1?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Raspberry Pi 3B+ for OctoPrint: (still need microsd card for it I believe)
CanaKit Raspberry Pi 3 B+ (B... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BC6WH7V?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Stepper Motor Dampers: (silences the motors, no more sounding like dial up internet lol will need to print mounts from thingiverse)
Upgraded NEMA 17 Stepper Steel... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DNT72SF?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Heat Sinks For Stepper Motors: (once stepper motors have dampers and aren't attached to the metal frame, they can get a little hot)
40mmx40mmx10mm Black Radiator... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07KWVGGGK?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Hot end silicone sleeve: (may not need, mine came with one instead of the old insulation)
Creality Original 3D Printer... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07HNXJ39T?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Extra Filament: (ender 3 only comes with a small sample "spool", this is just a brand I use and have had decent results with. The metallic silver hue shows off detail well)
3D Printer PLA Filament 1.75MM... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ME7YUIU?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

I can't get over how amazing this filament looks. This is my 5th "gold" filament purchase and I think I've finally found a filament that actually looks like gold!

Most "gold" filaments look like bronze or worse, goldenrod (yellow). This is Zhuopu New Materials (ugh, someone tell this company about branding) "Silk Gold" PLA. Now that my second 1kg spool has been ordered I feel better about sharing it (because... They might run out... forever!):

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XRPYXP2/

IMPORTANT: I have absolutely no affiliation with this company. I simply bought a whole bunch of filaments labeled "gold" from Amazon with my own money and this one just happened to blow my mind.

I was so excited about how well this print turned out I made a video!

https://youtu.be/34v9TFZOiYs

Here's the model if too you're interested in printing your own Low-poly Rose Twist Vase:

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2173745

Info about this print:

• 0.15mm layer height (0.4mm hardened steel nozzle)
  
• 5 bottom layers
  
• 0 top layers,
  
• 2 perimeters (not vase mode because I wanted it to be less flimsy)
  
• 215°C temperature (use 205°C with a brass nozzle)
  
  To understand why I'm so excited about this filament find, here's a comparison between what most manufacturers consider "gold" filament and this filament:
  
  http://i.imgur.com/jm0GUmc.jpg
  
  How can BamTack! call their filament "gold"?! It's bronze!

Shown above is the wall perpendicular to the Y axis. This wall has several (apparently random) layers that are misaligned (not shifted!). All layers perpendicular to the Y axis show this displacement, though layers even slightly start to improve greatly.

This problem appears in prints from 0.1mm to 0.3mm layer heights. Slowing the printer down to ~20 mm/s does not help.

(As mentioned below, I suspected the Y axis belt to be too loose and tightened it as much as possible, but that doesn't seem to be enough...)

I would love some help either diagnosing or suggesting a fix. Thanks!

Printer: Monoprice Maker Select V2 (ie. Wanhao Duplicator i3 v2.1)

Material: PLA Amz3d

Slicer settings: I used the print that came with the SD card (1.gcode). This is repeatable with my own slicer settings as well:

generated by Slic3r 1.2.9 on Sun Apr 9 04:22:41 2017

avoid_crossing_perimeters = 0<br />
bed_shape = 0x0,200x0,200x200,0x200<br />
bed_temperature = 50<br />
before_layer_gcode = <br />
bottom_solid_layers = 3<br />
bridge_acceleration = 0<br />
bridge_fan_speed = 100<br />
bridge_flow_ratio = 1<br />
bridge_speed = 60<br />
brim_width = 0<br />
complete_objects = 0<br />
cooling = 1<br />
default_acceleration = 0<br />
disable_fan_first_layers = 3<br />
dont_support_bridges = 0<br />
duplicate_distance = 6<br />
end_gcode = ;End GCode\nM104 S0                     ;extruder heater off\nM140 S0                     ;heated bed heater off (if you have it)\nG91                                    ;relative positioning\nG1 E-1 F300                            ;retract the filament a bit before lifting the nozzle, to release some of the pressure\nG1 Z+0.5 E-5 X-20 Y-20 F[travel_speed] ;move Z up a bit and retract filament even more\nG28 X0 Y0                              ;move X/Y to min endstops, so the head is out of the way\nM84                         ;steppers off\nG90                         ;absolute positioning<br />
external_fill_pattern = rectilinear<br />
external_perimeter_extrusion_width = 0<br />
external_perimeter_speed = 50%<br />
external_perimeters_first = 0<br />
extra_perimeters = 1<br />
extruder_clearance_height = 20<br />
extruder_clearance_radius = 20<br />
extruder_offset = 0x0<br />
extrusion_axis = E<br />
extrusion_multiplier = 1<br />
extrusion_width = 0<br />
fan_always_on = 1<br />
fan_below_layer_time = 60<br />
filament_colour = #FFFFFF<br />
filament_diameter = 1.75<br />
fill_angle = 45<br />
fill_density = 20%<br />
fill_pattern = honeycomb<br />
first_layer_acceleration = 0<br />
first_layer_bed_temperature = 50<br />
first_layer_extrusion_width = 0<br />
first_layer_height = 90%<br />
first_layer_speed = 15<br />
first_layer_temperature = 200<br />
gap_fill_speed = 10<br />
gcode_arcs = 0<br />
gcode_comments = 0<br />
gcode_flavor = reprap<br />
infill_acceleration = 0<br />
infill_every_layers = 1<br />
infill_extruder = 1<br />
infill_extrusion_width = 0<br />
infill_first = 0<br />
infill_only_where_needed = 1<br />
infill_overlap = 15%<br />
infill_speed = 50<br />
interface_shells = 0<br />
layer_gcode = <br />
layer_height = 0.2<br />
max_fan_speed = 100<br />
max_print_speed = 60<br />
max_volumetric_speed = 0<br />
min_fan_speed = 35<br />
min_print_speed = 10<br />
min_skirt_length = 5<br />
notes = <br />
nozzle_diameter = 0.4<br />
octoprint_apikey = <br />
octoprint_host = <br />
only_retract_when_crossing_perimeters = 1<br />
ooze_prevention = 0<br />
output_filename_format = [input_filename_base].gcode<br />
overhangs = 1<br />
perimeter_acceleration = 0<br />
perimeter_extruder = 1<br />
perimeter_extrusion_width = 0<br />
perimeter_speed = 30<br />
perimeters = 2<br />
post_process = <br />
pressure_advance = 0<br />
raft_layers = 0<br />
resolution = 0<br />
retract_before_travel = 2<br />
retract_layer_change = 0<br />
retract_length = 2<br />
retract_length_toolchange = 10<br />
retract_lift = 0<br />
retract_restart_extra = 0<br />
retract_restart_extra_toolchange = 0<br />
retract_speed = 40<br />
seam_position = random<br />
skirt_distance = 6<br />
skirt_height = 1<br />
skirts = 1<br />
slowdown_below_layer_time = 5<br />
small_perimeter_speed = 7<br />
solid_infill_below_area = 70<br />
solid_infill_every_layers = 0<br />
solid_infill_extruder = 1<br />
solid_infill_extrusion_width = 0<br />
solid_infill_speed = 10<br />
spiral_vase = 0<br />
standby_temperature_delta = -5<br />
start_gcode = G21        ;metric values\nG90        ;absolute positioning\nM82        ;set extruder to absolute mode\nM107       ;start with the fan off\nG28 X0 Y0  ;move X/Y to min endstops\nG28 Z0     ;move Z to min endstops\nG1 Z15.0 F[travel_speed] ;move the platform down 15mm\nG92 E0                  ;zero the extruded length\nG1 F[travel_speed]\n;Put printing message on LCD screen\nM117 Printing...\n<br />
support_material = 1<br />
support_material_angle = 0<br />
support_material_contact_distance = 0.2<br />
support_material_enforce_layers = 0<br />
support_material_extruder = 1<br />
support_material_extrusion_width = 0<br />
support_material_interface_extruder = 1<br />
support_material_interface_layers = 3<br />
support_material_interface_spacing = 0<br />
support_material_interface_speed = 100%<br />
support_material_pattern = pillars<br />
support_material_spacing = 2.5<br />
support_material_speed = 30<br />
support_material_threshold = 0<br />
temperature = 190<br />
thin_walls = 1<br />
threads = 4<br />
toolchange_gcode = <br />
top_infill_extrusion_width = 0<br />
top_solid_infill_speed = 15<br />
top_solid_layers = 3<br />
travel_speed = 80<br />
use_firmware_retraction = 0<br />
use_relative_e_distances = 0<br />
use_volumetric_e = 0<br />
vibration_limit = 0<br />
wipe = 0<br />
xy_size_compensation = 0<br />
z_offset = 0

I second this. I’ve gone through at least 30 spoils of Inland because I pass a micro center on both legs of my work commute. It’s $15 for pla and $18 for petg and they work great. The colors aren’t great but who cares. Recently they color formula has changed a bit and the colors have definitely improved. [Amazon] ( https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00YQB85PG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_In16Ab8RMSNNG ) has recently started carrying it on prime so no need to live near a MC anymore.

(Note in case the Reddit redesign doesn't make it clear: there are three pics in the gallery.)

I bought my character from HeroForge and printed him in a wood/PLA filament. I'm really happy with the results in person. The photos are big enough that it really highlights the layers and any small color differences. (And also some pieces of fluff from when I was cleaning the stain off of him that I removed after seeing the pics.) In real life, the layer lines are not very visible, and look more like wood grain where they can be seen.

I printed in 0.1 mm layers, with the tree root-looking supports from Meshmixer. I then stained him with an Olympic color called Royal Mahogany. I just dipped him in and then wiped him off pretty much right away - previous tests had shown that leaving the stain on for 10 minutes didn't really look any different. Happy to add other details if desired.

100% correct. This stuff is pretty amazing. I've tried a couple of spools of silk blue from a couple of different vendors and they make very good prints as well.

Polyalchemy and Prusament both have some colors I can't get from other vendors. Getting gorgeous prints from the Polyalchemy Bubblegum (pink) and their deep purple.

My first couple rolls were Monoprice's MP Select PLA+, which is about $20/kg and often on slight discount. Pretty good stuff.

I've tried Inland PLA, which is Available on Amazon or locally if you're near a Microcenter.. It's made by eSun. $15/kg with prime shipping. It's pretty much fine, though a little touchier about temperatures, and it's a little more brittle. The different colors also seem to need slightly different settings, especially black.

I've pretty much standardized on eSun's PLA+. Just a little more expensive at $22-$23/kg, but less brittle.

Any of them would be a fine first PLA. The prints have turned out great with all three, and I still rotate through them, as I have some colors in from Monoprice and Microcenter that I don't have in eSun. Reports vary (google "Inland eSun PLA" for a sampling), so some of this may also be confirmation bias. I don't regret purchasing any of the above.

Basic Cura guide for simple problems-https://ultimaker.com/download/170/Cura_User-Manual_v1.0.pdf

Sli3r manuel (I know you are using cura but the advanced settings are adusting the same things and some of the different settings can get confusing this can explain each setting)-http://manual.slic3r.org/

Your machine has a max temp of 230C and I print my wood filament (http://www.amazon.com/HATCHBOX-1-75mm-3D-Printer-Filament/dp/B01092XXD4) at about 205-210C so you are good.

As for all the speeds you have to experiment to see what is right for your printer but I would start slow and work up. I agree 60mm/s is a good starting point. Use the suggested temps for the filamnet as a baseline and work from there. I believe the Maker Select is almost identical to the Wanhao Duplicator i3 so these articles might help you also-http://3dprinterbrain.info/pmwiki.php/DupI3/SlicerSettings

After you start printing use this to tune and troubleshoot, it is very good-https://www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting/

Above everything, you are going to fail some prints and you are probably going to troubleshoot, but when you have a problem just come back and we help you troubleshoot.

FYI, I bought a Mk2s last year - it arrived about a week before the Mk3 announcement. All the printed parts that I tested on mine are definitely PETG. Most are Prusa Orange PETG, this exact filament: https://shop.prusa3d.com/en/filament/218-prusa-orange-petg-filament-1kg.html. This filament fluoresces orange under a black light (or near- UV laser pointer!). Oddly, the Z carriages aren't the same filament, but they ARE PETG (no reaction to acetone), and they are visibly the exact same color until you try UV light.

FYI, AIO Orange PLA is a little darker, but looks similar from far away https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01HYYPIVA/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

BV Fluorescent Orange ABS isn't very close (lighter, like cream-orange), but it does fluoresce nicely https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00QVZ1NWC/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

For sure! My FH has an Ender 3 3D printer. If you don't already have one, the Ender series is pretty good, however, you will have to assemble at least parts of it yourself. Then I actually found the file for this lanter on a website called Thingiverse here. We bought white PLA material off of Amazon and printed them. You just download the file and put it onto a microSD card, insert it into the printer and print. Once the top and bottom were printed (after a few trials and error) I primed and spray painted them rose gold.

We have printed a few things for the wedding so if you want to know more feel free to shoot me a message and I can send more pics and links :)

I actually meant to include that, I'm sorry. I bought the sample packs from Gizmo Dorks on Amazon.

Here's the one that includes the "orange":

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074W1XFRX

They all seem to print pretty well, and I like the colors. They're also a pretty affordable way to get a variety of colors. I also have their packs with the black, clear, grey, and white, and another with marble, glitter, glow in the dark, and color changing. I've been meaning to see if the make one with the cool metallic silk colors...

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07KSYRW34/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This stuff glows SUPER bright and is a pretty decent transparent blue color. Glows bright electric blue under UV light.

Hello all,

I'm trying to solve a persistent clicking / extrusion / constant print failure problem with my Qidi X-One 2.

I own a Qidi X-One 2, and for the last few weeks I am experiencing a clicking, extrusion problem that I cannot seem to fix. The filament twists and turns coming out of nozzle.

I changed the nozzle and tube a few weeks back, and printed ok for a few prints, but now the same problems are back. I only use PLA.

I recently placed this order through Amazon:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MVIYNFW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I used the cleaning filament last night, following the instructions on the package. I ran about one to two feet. I tried cold pull but the filament broke both times and did not pull all the material from the nozzle.

I ran some more cleaning filament, and then switched to my Solutech white PLA. I started to run the PLA to flush out the cleaning filament, and as this happened, clicking is back, and the filament twists and turns coming out of the nozzle.

Its like it did nothing!

I have also ordered some needles for nozzle cleaning, but these haven't arrived yet. I have also ordered some more nozzles and tubes, and will exchange for new ones when they arrive. But ultimately I would like to prevent the problem from happening in the first please.

Please let me know what else to try. Any help is greatly appreciated as I am fairly new to 3d printing.

Thank you!

So here is what you can do.

​

1. Check the side door on the extruder. Make sure it isn't too tight or lose. If you don't know how to check, then please let us know.
   
2. Check the filament. Basically, check to see if it has too much water in it or if the size is all over. Even if you're getting normal looking walls, if there is too much water this will require higher temp to work. If the filament is pretty new, then you don't have to worry about water being a problem.
   
3. Check if there is a clog. You can do the normal atomic pull stuff, or you can use cleaning filaments like the following. With pretty much any type of cleaning filament, you need to keep an eye out on when it's coming out of the nozzle. It's clear for a few seconds before it gets cold. If there is stuff inside then you will see it within the clear coming out. https://www.amazon.com/eSUN-CLEANING-Filament-Printers-Cleaning/dp/B00MVIYNFW/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=cleaning+filament&qid=1555863155&s=gateway&sr=8-3 (NOTE there is a few different brands. Pick whichever you trust. There could be a wide gap in price. But you only need 1 of them since you will hardly ever use it. I bought mine a good year ago and maybe only used 10% of it.)
   
4. Check for this https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dSPPrb0J8CY&feature=youtu.be (I'm thinking this might be your problem, but everything above is far easier to deal with)

overture better. Less colors, but great prices. (PLa on sale fir $12.74: https://www.amazon.com/OVERTURE-Filament-Consumables-Dimensional-Accuracy/dp/B07PGY2JP1/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=overture+3d&qid=1574128170&smid=A3M6OB6YPLO1C&sr=8-3)

A quick amazon search also introduced me to their PLA+ and TPU, which sound like things I would want to try.

I dont recommend those. Not only do they end up too short but the quality is often questionable.

If you want a bundle of colors in high quality, I really love AIO robotics. They sell a 12 pack of half kilos. Its enough for big prints but small enough to not have filament get too stale.

Also the colors are so rich and the Orange is the closest I found to Prusa in PLA.

AIO Robotics ZEUS Premium Filament Bundle, PLA, True Popular Pantone Colors (Pack of 12) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01K59SDF4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_iGdgzbX0RJ291

AFAIK, the silver PLA that came with my MK3S kit isn't official prusament filament (no QR code, no prusament branding, not a prusament spool), though I have no complaints about it.

I do have a few spools of official prusament, and I have zero issues printing with them. Very smooth flat walls, oozing is controlled (no stringing), and the built-in Slic3r PE profiles for prusament are spot on. I like that the filament comes with resealable bags to keep the spool in with the moisture absorbing pack, as well as the honeycomb spool it comes on. The QR code to see the stats of the filament is nice, but kinda gimmicky, and doesn't impress me any more.

All that being said, I'm currently printing with some 3D Solutech stuff I got from amazon for $16 which claims +/- 0.03mm tolerance and again, it's wonderful quality while printing. It's not wound on the spool nearly as nice, though.

Hi. Based on the info I found Blu by Siraya is not really flexible but simply bendable (not brittle). As far as I know bendable parts may not crack, break and shatter but they may also not return to their printed form after being bent too much. And flexible almost always returns to its originasl shape. https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_continue=6&v=jxuinrFVw7o I hope I'm not wrong on this and you get my point.

​

is there a specific reason you mix with ordinary brittle resin?

​

Thanks.

Ahhhhh thank you! I had no idea!

I just made it visible. It seems like the infill speed was 50 mm/s, same as the print speed.

I'm printing with AMZ3D PLA at 200c. The filament label suggests to print between 180 to 210c. My travel speed is 120 mm/s.

Should I slow down the infill some more or tweak travel speed / temperature?

Thanks for the detailed explanation, I really appreciate it :)

Here are a few other tips. When casting small stuff like this you should use a pressure pot. What that does is, while the resin is curing, the pressure, say 4 bar or 60 psi, will squeeze air bubbles down so small that they can't be seen with the naked eye.

If you want to make a lot of these, like thousands, then a good way to make them is via spin casting.

By the way, why are you making these by casting? Do you have a resin printer? If so there are resins that are strong enough to work, like Siraya Tech's Blu. On the other hand, why can't you buy these premade somewhere?

 

Thingiverse

 

Prusa Multi-Material!

We're having a LAN party so...I decided to cut up an existing heartstone model from thingiverse for multi-material.

I'll upload the model to thingiverse later today for my fellow nerds/geeks.

 

Images

 

Print time: 35hrs

Detail: .15mm

Filament:

Stone

Blue

 

The stone filament worked, surprisingly, great with the multi-material. Multi-material is insanely picky about filament quality so I'm pretty happy with the outcome. The first print I tried had some bleeding with the blue, so I increased the wipe tower a bit, which solved the issue.

After months of fighting with the MMU, I think I've finally got it tuned in...knocks on wood.

My favorite reason lately is Siraya Blu: Blu - Strong and Precise High Resolution 3D Printing Resin by Siraya (1kg) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07KSYRW34/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_FcsjDbDWXH7G7

It's my first time with a resin that's able to make end-use parts like this so it's a lot of fun.

Stronghero3D 3D Printing PLA... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FCQ9WDJ?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Not sure if that shares right but there it is. There was a sale on it someone posted on Reddit with a coupon, this soon looks awesome and it gets much better color the more I use it, keep watching I'll be posting more stuff as the colors change.

I'm a connoisseur of purple.

• Polyalchemy Nightshade is gorgeous. At $35/.75kg it better be. :)
  
• MakerGeeks Royal Purple is really nice, but they're very unreliable to order from.
  
  Other than that, I enjoy Ziro Marble and Proto-Pasta Teal.

I've only used https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01092XXD4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 but had some great results.

Here's some of my wood pla projects. The first two images are sanded and stained, the final is fresh off the printer with some fuckups I was troubleshooting. https://imgur.com/a/DdEEXzZ

Just be careful to make note of the amount as well. The standard is around about $45/L, which would be around 60cad. I'm in the US, so can't speak about anywhere local and such. I just went off of the prices listed on amazon and such.

For the Bluecast:
https://www.digitmakers.ca/collections/vendors?q=Blue%20Cast-3D%20Garage
Note that those are 500g, so approx. .455l, so about 350cad per liter.

Monocure:
https://www.amazon.ca/Monoprice-Rapid-Printer-Compatible-Printers/dp/B07H45B4QF/ref=sr_1_11?keywords=monocure%2B3d%2Bprinter%2Bresin&qid=1575075417&sr=8-11&th=1
That's for half a liter, but priced like a full liter.

Anycubic, they don't have grey atm, but price would be pretty much the same:
https://www.amazon.ca/ANYCUBIC-Printer-Photon-Printing-1000ml/dp/B07GPDMVKP/ref=sr_1_9?keywords=anycubic%2B3d%2Bprinter%2Bresin&qid=1575075556&sr=8-9&th=1
That's for a full liter, and it's cheaper than the half liter of Monocure.

Elegoo:
https://www.amazon.ca/ELEGOO-ABS-Like-UV-Curing-Standard-Photopolymer/dp/B07P6W5L8P/ref=sr_1_6?keywords=elegoo%2B3d%2Bprinter%2Bresin&qid=1575075900&sr=8-6&th=1
A bit more, but not nearly as much as monocure or bluecast.

I haven't tried it myself, but this Gold Silk PLA has gotten good reviews and I've seen people post some really beautiful prints made with it.

Thank you so much for the reply! The filament is a couple weeks old now, but is a transparent PLA, the other filament I was having similar issues with was a black PLA+. I had originally thought it was a nozzle issue, so I actually just replaced the nozzle with a hardened steel 0.4mm nozzle. I just picked up some standard Inland Gray PLA, so I will give that a shot and see if I see similar results or not (maybe it is just the filament)

The filament I was using is https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MB3CV6K/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Some possibly relevant notes: This was printed at 210, I tried printing it at 205 (that caused layer adhesion issues) but noticed even at 210 I was getting weak layer adhesion,, so I upped it to 220 which seemed a bit better, and while I'm still seeing stringing, at least its adhering a bit better, but still pretty brittle.

Walmart Sells some as well that is in the $15 a spool range. With ship to store its just as good price wise as Microcenter. I actually have some of this filament on order but have not tested it yet myself.

Amazon carries some as well that is in that price range and is Prime eligible. I have used this filament and it is consistent in the 3 rolls I have owned.

With that said, if you do have a Microcenter locally, like /u/joshc4566 reports the Inland brand filament is also in that approximately $15 a spool price range and has been very good to me personally.

Fixed: First off, thank you guys so much for your advice. This forum is a huge boon to owning a photon. Passing it forward, the problem was solved after I did the following:

1. Cleaning the dust out of the room the printer was in and buying an Air purifyier/filter for $50 on Amazon and setting it up so it was right next to the printer, sucking air from underneath the printer where the intake fan is.
   
   
2. After cleaning the room, I bought a bottle of Elegoo Gray. See Here. This stuff is amazing.

So creating this took a bit of practice and patience. Basically, I built the 3d model from scratch using a software called fusion 360. Once I got the model built I used Simplify 3d to get the printing parameters set (layer hight, print speed, nozzle/bed temp etc...)

You then send that file directly to the printer for printing. I’m using a JG Aurora A5s which is a relatively cheap intro printer. I loaded it up with some wood PLA filament (amazon link for reference: HATCHBOX 3D Printer Filament, Dimensional Accuracy +/- 0.03mm, 1.75 mm, 1 kg Spool, Wood https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01092XXD4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_3AulDbTCWTM9X).

I’m not sure exactly how this filament is made but it seems like a mixture of saw dust and plastic that functions almost exactly like the normal PLA plastic most 3d printers use.

Anyways, once the print is done. (This took about 4-5hrs) you can sand it down and polish out any imperfections the printer may have left. And also being wood, it will absorb any type of wood stain.

You can still see some layer lines but if I adjust the layer hight and put more effort into sanding, then those would be a lot less noticeable.

Hope this helps!

It’s ZIRO “Marble Color” PLA from Amazon! ($21.00)

Awesome Filament. Hides Layer Lines Incredibly Well.

It’s as smooth as normal PLA, just looks textured from the speckles.

This was printed at .2mm on my Ender 3. One of my Favorite Materials And Prints to date!

If you want a few rolls of different colors this is a pretty good deal, 23 bucks for 4 colors... Downside is you get 800g instead of 1000g for the money. Still good if you want multiple colors without breaking the bank 👍 I've had real good luck with this brand

Gizmo Dorks PLA Filament for 3D Printers 1.75mm 200g, 4 Color Pack - Blue, Green, Orange, Red https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074W1XFRX/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_AbKjDbY1A0WKD

Yes of course :)

Black PLA:
• HATCHBOX PLA 3D Printer Filament, Dimensional Accuracy +/- 0.03 mm, 1 kg Spool, 1.75 mm, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00J0ECR5I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_-Nn0Db9E2TV4N
•OVERTURE PLA Filament 1.75mm with 3D Build Surface 200mm × 200mm 3D Printer Consumables, 1kg Spool (2.2lbs), Dimensional Accuracy +/- 0.05 mm, Fit Most FDM Printer, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07PGY2JP1/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_yPn0DbA5MFBZS


White PLA:
•HATCHBOX PLA 3D Printer Filament, Dimensional Accuracy +/- 0.03 mm, 1 kg Spool, 1.75 mm, White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00J0GMMP6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_IOn0Db4BZ8QWH
•OVERTURE PLA Filament 1.75mm with 3D Build Surface 200mm × 200mm 3D Printer Consumables, 1kg Spool (2.2lbs), Dimensional Accuracy +/- 0.05 mm, Fit Most FDM Printer, White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07PGZNM34/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_LRn0Db62EBRN2

Haha awesome! I actually tried this first using a special white with black bits PLA filament that creates a sort of marble effect: https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01IIAC2MW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_nseTAbBMCEK8A

Sadly it must have come unstuck from the bed on the last 20 layers or so (the tip of its nose!). I now use Z-Hop and thicker brims.

This is a model I found and printed for a friend with this new gold filament that I purchased it came out really well aside from the fact that I printed at .2 layers and not .1 or lower layers like I meant to.

Ganesh 3D scan found on #Thingiverse https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2545113

Here is the filament I forgot to share it
3D Printer Filament PLA 1.75 mm Silk Gold 1 KG ( 2.2 LBS ) Spool 3D PLA Printing Material https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XRPYXP2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_gsVIAbA6ZHJ43

My own shoutouts:

Hatchbox Wood: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01092XXD4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This sands easier than any classic plastic filament, after which you'd swear someone whittled the wood themselves. After stain, it's my very favorite thing to use. It's abominably stringy if you use anything smaller than 0.15mm layers, but that really doesn't matter since you're gonna sand it anyway.

Photos: https://imgur.com/a/wDIbPRq

CCTree Marble: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07CVJJB9Y/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This prints like butter, but I've been unable to stop it from stringing. It's easier to sand than other non-wood filaments I've tried though. I like the appearance, which seems to naturally hide subtle layer lines like the wood does.

Photos: https://imgur.com/a/R23qBsw

Special mention to Prusament: the very least stringing I've seen among the few filaments I've tried, but I don't buy it because it's expensive in the USA and because the fumes make my eyes hurt while doing squeaky noises in the extruder. Weird.

Photo: https://i.imgur.com/bNYNJYj.png

Silk Gold 3D Printer PLA Filament... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XRPYXP2?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share this stuff is pretty good but make sure you use it right or you will end up like me...

I'm using three lulzbot minis and two/three modified monoprice select minis for Caliburn production. Total current draw for all of the above when heating up is 6 amps. Average draw is 4 amps. They are on a breaker separate from the rest of my living areas.

https://i.imgur.com/yHeJuBd.jpg

The lulzbot minis do all the parts that require more volume, and have a longer timescale (5 hours max). Give them decent filament, keep the wiping pads changed out, and you can just hit print and let them go without having to baby-sit them. Filament change-outs on them are also a breeze because the extruder design is fantastic. I don't recommend buying a used one because the older revisions have issues with the cable carrier chewing through the power wires for the heated bed (had to fix this 4 times on mine). The other two are way newer and haven't had any issues that weren't my fault.

The monoprice select minis are fussier about filament and I modified all three of them by adding PEI to the build plate, making it easier to replace the push-lock fittings (they only last a month), and making a filament holder that sticks out the front to make spool changes easier and take up less space. v1 minis are also really crappy compared to the v2 and depending on where you order one from it can be a lottery as to which revision you get. My first one is a v1.8 and it has some odd bugs in the firmware that the newer ones don't have. But I really can't complain given that these are pre-built printers that I've only put $275 into each. If one goes belly-up it's cheap enough to justify replacing the whole printer.

If you want a "Nerf Orange" the two best options are AIO Orange (expensive @ $24/kg) or SIENOC Orange (cheap @ $15/kg). Pxmalion Orange is also a decent one. Every other brand of "Orange" I've tried is too faded, yellow, or prints like crap.

Here's my mostly-up-to-date spreadsheet for all the filaments I've tried.

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1aqLRCEH7zoF1rLaaOmuAIsbID1RPw1lRjpXXX0T0MdI/edit?usp=sharing

CC3D Silk Silver might work. I haven't used it, but I've used their Silk Copper, and it's pretty convincing.

I haven't seen these mentioned in this sub before, but I ordered a couple Gizmo Dorks packs from Amazon when I first got my Ender 3 Pro:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074W1XFRX?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074W2TNKB?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

It's a little more expensive by weight, but it's a good way to get a bunch of different colors.

I like the magnet surface that comes with the pro, I haven't had any issues with parts sticking.

I also ordered the aluminum kit you did, and I also ordered some replacement springs for the bed. I'm planning on installing them this weekend.

Here you go: Imgur

The camera's out of focus, I need to fiddle with it. Its also one of the no-IR filter ones, so the colors are not accurate.

Its not a great angle if your goal is to shoot build videos, but its a good enough one for monitoring the print to make sure it hasn't gone horribly wrong.

The orange came from this combo pack:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01K59SDF4

Looks like it's painted. If you zoom in you can see the engine intakes and the missile bay on the back are white. There is gold filament that looks pretty nice though.

https://www.amazon.com/Filament-Silk-Gold-Printing-Material/dp/B06XRPYXP2/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=gold+filament&qid=1559185928&s=gateway&sr=8-3

Yeah, I was actually surprised at how good the color turned out. Here’s what I used:

Silk Gold 3D Printer PLA Filament 1.75 mm 1 KG (2.2 LBS) Spool 3D Printing Material CC3D Shine Silky Shiny PLA Metal Gold Like Metallic PLA Filament

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XRPYXP2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_NAHPCbR59STKJ

Consider getting some cleaning filament. This is an example from Amazon but there are other manufacturers/vendors with similar products.

It is not for printing, only cleaning. Its temperature range is quite broad, it's sticky, and has huge die swell, all of which make it great for cleaning.

To use, run it through at the temperature of the last used filament. It melts and sweeps up the residual stuff. Then prime with the new filament (at whatever temperature is appropriate for that) and good to go.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07PYDNQXS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_dxLKDbT73YKQH

This is the one I got! It looks like it’s out of stock now, sadly, but the filaments by the same company will probably be similar. I really love the gradient fades in this one.

haven’t printed yet, but i’m probably going to use the CC3D Silk Silver PLA on the Ender 3. We’ll see how it turns out, I’ll be sure to post a make.

edit: with white index logo :)

I use this cleaning filament for most of my cleanings, it’s nice a sticky to grab the leftovers in the nozzle. Worked great if you wanna go from PLA to Abs to PLA .. ect.

eSUN 3D Printer CLEANING Filament... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MVIYNFW?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Hatchbox and AMZ3D wood PLA from Amazon print just fine. AMZ3D filament comes from the same factory as Hatchbox. If you like one, you'll like the other. Also, AMZ3D has more blues and purples than Hatchbox (just in case you were interested).

Thanks for the interest everyone.
I used Hatchbox 3D Wood filament, printed with PLA settings, bed 60, extruder 210. The only problem I have is it's super stringy as the extruder moves from finish to start locations.

I'm going to finish this with sandpaper, this filament sands very nicely. Once it's sanded I'm going to assemble the boat pieces with wood glue, sand again then use wood stain to finish.

Think I'm going to print at least 5 of these and experiment with different wood stains and some colors. I don't have any serious plans to use them in water but I've heard this filament does float.
If I use some spray lacquer it might help but I'm guessing introducing the print to water probably wouldn't be the best for it's longevity.

If you look at the reviews in the below link you'll see some finished prints.
Link to filament - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01092XXD4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Hey everyone!

Was curious if anyone can help me out with this.

It’s an Ender 3 Pro using the Hatchbox wood filament.

Anything small prints fine. Usually good for 2-3 hours no issues.

Anything 4+ hours I come back to a jammed extruded several inches above the print with nothing comes out.




Filament: HATCHBOX 3D Printer Filament,... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01092XXD4?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Canadian here, there is a pretty good deal on the 1000g grey right now

https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B07P6W5L8P/?coliid=IC39IYRZ4IBM3&colid=3V9PV3KM90NUC&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

I've been wanting to try this 'marble' filament for a while,
Looks pretty cool.

https://www.amazon.com/ZIRO-Printer-Filament-1-75mm-Marble/dp/B01IIAC2MW/

It's just PLA but that doesn't make it less exciting.
Not too expensive either.

You should absolutely buy some filament to get started. It comes with enough PLA filament to do a test print but not much else. Search amazon for 1.75mm PLA filament in any colors you want. I recommend this just to get started with a few options. https://www.amazon.com/Gizmo-Dorks-Filament-Printers-1-75mm/dp/B074W1XFRX/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=gizmo+dorks+pla&qid=1573154441&sr=8-3


Also you will probably want a hobbyist exacto knife set, a deburring tool, and sandpaper to work with.

1. You need to slice the model into gcode, which is essentially a list of instructions of how to move the hotend to print the part. My favourite is Slic3r PE, which is a more advanced software. I would recommend CURA, as the slicing profile should have been provided in the SD card Link to set up SLIC3R
   
2. Gravity causes the filament to constantly "leak" out of the nozzle. You should keep your nozzle sub 160 for PLA before starting a print, or it will leak too much. Most slicers have whats called a prime or wipe line, which helps clean off the nozzle before the print
   
3. The BLTouch only comes with the probe and wiring, as well as some screws. You need to print out a BLTouch mount for the hotend in order to install it Link to a print in place, no supports option. You can also use this one, but you need an additional m3 screw
   
4. Refer to question 2, you usually need a slicer, and a software like Pronterface that allows you to connect to the printer and acts as a UI for testing. Both slic3r and pronterface are available for macOS
   
5. Not a stupid question at all! The nozzle is 0.4 mm, but the filament diameter is 1.75mm. Any filament that is 1.75mm you can use for printing. Some options for PLA are Hatchbox, Amazon Basics (Be careful, some people have had problems with this brand), and if there is a microcenter nearby, Solutech eSun filament

I'm a huge fan of the silk copper/bronze filaments. Silk gold is pretty good too but when people look at prints with those silk copper or bronze they more often ask if they're actual metal.

https://www.amazon.com/Bronze-Filament-Printer-Printing-Material/dp/B07FCC3TJG/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1537377823&sr=8-3&keywords=silk+bronze+filament

https://www.amazon.com/Silk-Copper-Filament-Printing-Material/dp/B0761PMW3X/ref=pd_bxgy_328_img_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B0761PMW3X&pd_rd_r=c5eff776-bc30-11e8-85dd-873fcc9bd247&pd_rd_w=mfPAa&pd_rd_wg=SPizH&pf_rd_i=desktop-dp-sims&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=6725dbd6-9917-451d-beba-16af7874e407&pf_rd_r=FY9NVDFGYTQ7G7B53M61&pf_rd_s=desktop-dp-sims&pf_rd_t=40701&psc=1&refRID=FY9NVDFGYTQ7G7B53M61

All three crests were printed on a stock ender three with Hatchbox Wood pla. The pla I used sands and stain just like wood so it was the perfect choice for these crests.

For the Gryffindor and Raven claw crests, I used regular dark wood stain. The Slytherin crest is what the prints look lime without staining. I plan on on painting the Slytherin one as I dont think the stained look fits the house. Links to everything I used can be found below.

Link to filament

Gryffindor Crest

Raven Claw Crest

Hufflepuff Crest

Slytherin Crest

I highly doubt it's the SD card. If it was the SD card the printer would likely just simply stop instead of continuing to move without extruding. It could be a settings issue, something you changed and forgot to set back though.

Is the extruder motor still moving, or in your case likely grinding away bits of the filament? That's an important question.

Did you make sure to get all the PLA out before going to PET-G and vice versa? If you plan to do filament type changes on a regular basis you should pick up something like eSUN's cleaning filament. It has a really wide temperature range (150C to 260C) which means it's good for making sure you've got all your previous filament type out.

Okay, I was trying recommended premade profiles online that people had tinkered with, I'll see if the Cura profile works.

Sorry, That's not the bed, that's my workshop desk,I didn't think to take a picture until after I had removed it, though I did use the generic aluminum bed for the print. I'll try again with the defaults and take another picture on the bed if it doesn't succeed

25mm/second

PLA, both the spool provided in the printer and this

I appreciate the help.

Just printed my first ninjaflex test print and it came out way better than i expected. The only problem is how long it takes for all the previous filament to be cleaned out. I was thinking of getting the following from eSun but wanted to make sure there wasn't any other options I'm missing.

http://www.amazon.com/Printer-CLEANING-Filament-Makerbot-Printers/dp/B00MVIYNFW/

If anyone has used eSun with a bowden setup i would love to hear how you used it. Did you put it right into the hot end by removing the PTFE tubing or did you just put in a piece between your filament chance and have the new filament push it though? I'm just wondering how that would work with ninjaflex already being hard to get back pressure on with a bowden.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01IIAC2MW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_k1bzDbQGXAFZM

Found it! I’m not sure if it’s just a good quality filament or what, but I was really satisfied with the texture.

Thanks. I will look into adjusting jerk settings. I had them at default values so far. Yes, rainbow silk filament fro amazon:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07PYDNQXS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_2YAHDb1TVC70J

Was hoping for quicker transitions but turned out well for the cat.

It’s this brand:

3D Printer Silk Rainbow... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07PYDNQXS?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

And I’m still relatively new so I can’t really give any sort of expert testimony, but as someone who has printed in the original white and again in some hatchbox black, I didn’t make any changes different than the out of box stuff. Worked really well.

It's not quite as cheap as in store but I've also had good experience with Inland brand (what microcenter sells) on Amazon.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00YQB85PG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_BJU1DbVX3WYNF

It's PLA with wood fibers that give it a wood like appearance. It's a bit messier to print with because it can gum up the hotend (in my experience) but it can look really nice.

Link

This is the stuff I used.

Definitely one of my favorites!

3D Printer Filament PLA 1.75 mm Silk Gold 1 KG (2.2 LBS) Spool 3D PLA Printing Material Silky Shiny PLA https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XRPYXP2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_tL62BbK8MP47B

I bought some 1.75mm wood filament from Hatchbox off of Amazon last week. Quick search on amazon. Although I have bigger nozzles coming (attempted to print on 0.4mm nozzle and it clogged the shit out of it).

Aio robotics has a 12 color pack for $139 USD

AIO Robotics Universal Premium Filament Bundle, PLA, True Popular Pantone Colors (Multi-Pack of 12)

No, it was a weird promotion+coupon that I'm pretty sure I found posted on reddit. I can't find the old details now. My total order was $6.03 including tax. I think each person could only get one. I just assume any large rainbow colored print I see is somebody burning through one of those rolls :)


This was the filament: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07FCQ9WDJ

>On Amazon I can buy an electric toothbrush for $40 and an Echo Dot with Alexa for $50. So for $90 I can get the equivalent to Wavee's "electric smart toothbrush speaker" for which they're charging $279.99 ("suggested retail").

I'm willing to bet you can also buy a decent 3D printer kit with included filament/resin, print a case for your Blue-thbrush Frankenstein's monster, and still be under $280.

Edit: yep.

• Currently: $90
  
• Inexpensive Printer on Amazon: $140
  
• Filament: $15.19
  
• Total: $245.19

I'm expecting my printer tomorrow (Maker Select v2 - couldn't wait for mini v2 and reading mixed thoughts put me off) going to try printing this with a wood PLA. (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01092XXD4) Really excited to see how it turns out. Have to wait until Tues for the filament, but that'll give me some time to acquaint myself with this beast. Thanks for inspiring me.

I've used a fair amount of inland filament, and I like it a lot. Currently selling for 16.99 on Amazon. Comes in a bunch of colors too. From what I've read, it's the same as eSun filament which usually goes for about 22 bucks a kg.

I just saw some people print with CC3D Silk Gold that looked freakin amazing.

Best I’ve used so far is Amazon Basics Wood, but the CC3D Silk Metal series is on my to-do list.

$25 very reasonable. This part will be done printing in about 7 hours or so. I will get a nice video when it’s done printing it’s kinda hard with it moving around


Silk Silver PLA 1.75mm 3D Printer Filament 1KG (2.2LBS) Printing Materials Silky Shiny PLA Metal Silver Like CC3D https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XSBFB17/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_XCTvCbPBD2PDY

Marble PLA is just light gray PLA that has tiny bits of black PLA added to make it look like marble. I've used this one in the past with good results:
https://www.amazon.com/ZIRO-Printer-Filament-1-75mm-Marble/dp/B01IIAC2MW

There is, but by what I hear it's pretty finicky. You can also print in different types of nylon and other rubbery materials.

I don't have any transparent filament, but if you want to pay $20, I can buy this (it's 19.65 after tax) and print it. Otherwise, I'll print it for free. I have blue, orange, and white already.

Well a spool of gold filament costs about $25, I'd charge about $20 to print it, and maybe $6 to ship it. Just so you know this thing is pretty large.....about 3 ft long (after assembled).

Before you buy a new nozzle, have you tried cleaning filament yet?

eSUN 3D Printer CLEANING Filament 1.75mm Natural 0.1kg for all 1.75mm FDM 3D Printers, 1.75mm Cleaning https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MVIYNFW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_NetQBbX0VWR7E

This may help you get the gunk out of that nozzle. Run that thru it and do some cold pulls with it. It may revitalize your nozzle for a lot cheaper and you wouldn’t have to take apart your extruder to do it.

Easy solution- Wood Filament

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07FCQ9WDJ/ref=ox_sc_act_image_2?smid=AKCLTRB5OCUWD&psc=1
Stronghero3d new rainbow PLA.
I love it.

A new heatbed is around $30. Another option is to buy a $10 square silicone heat pad from aliexpress, stick it underneath the stock bed and clip a sheet of picture frame glass to the top.

Don't be discouraged by a jam, it's a simple system. Take the fan shroud off, unscrew the fitting and take the tube out. Heat up the block and try to push filament through by hand. This usually clears blockages. If still a no-go, use cleaning filament instead. It's does wonders for cleaning hotends.

Sure! it was available at a promotional price of $6 last week so I decided to pick up a spool. It has a nice shine to it, as well as the rainbow coloration.

3D Solutech Natural Clear 1.75 mm 3D Printer PLA Filament 2.2 LBS (1.0KG) - 100% USA https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MB3CV6K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_KA5KybXTCRJ3E

I used 3D Solutech Natural Clear 1.75mm PLA, https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MB3CV6K/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07FCQ9WDJ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

But last week there was double stacking coupons that made it $5.59 before tax. It was great for the the $5.59 I would of been disappointed had I paid the for $28. I looked for the original post where someone generously called out the super cheap price, but my search skills are apparently not good.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01K59SDF4/ref=psdc_6066128011_t4_B076CB9W4M AIO bundle on amazon - what i prefer. handy to have the full spectrum on hand. quality is decent.

credit to https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:196038

You can't really appreciate the filament unless it's moving and I don't have a fancy turntable so I stole the one from my microwave lol

edit: the filament is https://smile.amazon.com/Silk-Copper-Filament-Printing-Material/dp/B0761PMW3X/

Good luck getting the clog out. Last time I had a cold end clog like that I had to remove the heatsink, let the hot end plus heatbreak get up to temp, and pushed through some Nylon, I think, cleaning filament I got online but pulled it out before it softened too much. Pliers and channel locks were used to grip the hot end so I could do it without burning myself.

https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00YQB85PG/ref=sxr_rr_xsim_1?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=3008523062&pd_rd_wg=7c42q&pf_rd_r=1HBQXMEFVZB9J56RSVBC&pf_rd_s=desktop-rhs-carousels&pf_rd_t=301&pd_rd_i=B00YQB85PG&pd_rd_w=1qfkg&pf_rd_i=filament&pd_rd_r=ac884abb-a45a-4faa-9662-644d81871e55&ie=UTF8&qid=1511805028&sr=1

Sorry about the long link, it's the same stuff and same price with free amazon 1 day shipping. I've used this pretty much exclusively for the past 7 or so months after having some issues with other brands.

It’s actually marble! Looks great and hides some small imperfections
ZIRO 3D Printer Filament PLA 1.75mm Marble Color 1KG(2.2lbs) - White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01IIAC2MW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Y05iDbDAKXX8T

Here's the list of stuff I got.

​

📷
MelodySusie 36W UV Nail Lamp Dryer, Professional UV Gel Nail Polish Curing Light with 3 Timer Setting, Sliding Tray for Manicure Pedicure Gel Polish, UV Resin, Acrylic, Polygel, White
Sold by: MelodySusie Direct
$26.59
Buy it again
📷
SC Products 4" Rotating Display Stand, Solar Powered, Chrome Finish, by Sunrise Crystal
Sold by: Sunrise Crystal
$12.99
Buy it again
📷
ELEGOO ABS-Like 3D Printer Rapid Resin LCD UV-Curing Resin 405nm Standard Photopolymer Resin for LCD 3D Printing 1000Gram Grey
Sold by: ELEGOO
$39.99
Buy it again
📷
ELEGOO Mars UV Photocuring LCD 3D Printer with 3.5'' Smart Touch Color Screen Off-line Print 4.72"(L) x 2.68"(W) x 6.1"(H) Printing Size Black Version
Sold by: ELEGOO
$279.99
Buy it again

A lot of people swear by plain white (so you can see any stuck crud) ABS. I personally never print ABS and don't want to buy a spool just for cleaning, so I was happy to find eSun cleaning filament. It looks expensive, but you only use 6 inches/150mm at a time. The big pluses for the cleaning filament are that they are "sticky", so should do a good job pulling crud out of the hotend, plus they melt over a very wide range, so if a bit gets left behind, it'll melt right out even if you print PLA next.

If your prints have become crap but no real changes in settings, you might have a clogged nozzle or a slipping PTFE tube.

Grab some nozzle cleaning filament and shove a few inches of that through your nozzle (while it's hot if course) and see if that improves anything. If you still have issues, you may need to disassemble your hotend and look for issues. If the PTFE tube has started slipping, you'll have a large pool of melted filament just above the nozzle and below the tube you'll have to clear out

This one;
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LNRDUR8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1



This is my favorite one I've tried so far, hands down.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ME7YUIU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

A few weeks ago, u/mrdead113 posted an amazing vase design, printed in a silk gold PLA: https://www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/comments/ane711/monochromatic_vase_in_gold_silk/

​

It looked so good that I bought some silk gold PLA too (a different brand: https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B06XRPYXP2/) and printed the same vase design at 440mm tall on my MakerBot Z18.

​

(Note: I don't recommend MakerBot devices, it's just the biggest printer I have)

I appreciate the heads up on the deal but just a little bit more effort would save everyone so much time. On mobile it's a ridiculous exercise to open a tab and swap back and forth between the image as you manually type in the coupon code. And that's if you find the right product. I tried searching for it manually and thought I located the right filament but the coupon code wouldn't work. Even switching to a desktop requires manually typing it and of course both the url and the code have zero's and oh's.

Here's the product link

Here's the coupon code: 4NO6Q4Z4

You want me to use Google for you? Here's one of the first Amazon results. Please type things in for yourself.

3D Printer Silk Rainbow Multicolor PLA Filamentt 1.75mm 1KG Multi Color Printing Materials Gradually Changing Color PLA Rainbow Mulitcolor Multicolored Metallic Color Gradient Filament CC3D https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07PYDNQXS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_KReHDb0WQ1T7Z

This is the wood filament I use when I print. I like this filament more than any other material. It prints so well. I've had cleaner prints with this stuff than any other material.

Here's a link for Amazon (not affiliate) to the stuff I got:

Silk Gold 3D Printer PLA Filament 1.75 mm 1 KG (2.2 LBS) Spool 3D Printing Material CC3D Shine Silky Shiny PLA Metal Gold Like Metallic PLA Filament https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XRPYXP2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_eCTQCbJT0C24S

Printed a Sleeping Beauty's crown for my wife.

Thanks! I printed it in this generic silk gold PLA.

Thanks and here you go!
3D Printer Silk Rainbow... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07PYDNQXS?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

I used https://www.amazon.com/3D-Solutech-Natural-Printer-Filament/dp/B00MB3CV6K/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1492775092&sr=8-4&keywords=3d+solutech to print http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2186153 and was very pleased with the results.

I'm using a new Maker Select with this filament. I've done some mods already:

Glass bed with hairspray and binder clips

Fan duct

Z endstop

Extruder gear

My Y carriage was warping, so I modified this one

I'll post any settings I'm using, if that would help.

It is possible you might need some of this.

I've been lucky and have never had to deal with a clog myself, so I'm afraid I'm not much help from here on. I think it's probably clog related and would suggest some more targeted Google searches with that in mind to find solutions.

PLA filament is the way to go. There's tons on amazon this is what I usually get. Also make sure the filament is 1.75mm

Link

Try Gold filament :)

example

Solutech has been good to me. Every cheaper one I’ve tried has been insanely brittle.

cc3d Rainbow Silk PLA

I didn’t forget! (Surprisingly) But here’s the link to the Rainbow Filament. I’m printing at 210/60 and seems to be going well. I haven’t played too much with temps.

Thank you.
Not promoting any particular filament, here is a material list.

Gold
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MF03VLS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Silver Metal
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ME7YUIU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Aqua Blue
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ME7CKOG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/AIO-Robotics-Universal-Filament-Multi-Pack/dp/B01K59SDF4/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1540503656&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=aio+robotics+pla&dpPl=1&dpID=41Ej52quwJL&ref=plSrch

This what I ordered originally, and this was the "Bright Green" color. Not sure if it's sold by itself or not

Silk Copper 3D Printer Filament PLA 1.75 mm 1 KG (2.2 LBS) Spool 3D PLA Printing Material Silky Like Shiny Metal https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0761PMW3X/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_ihvaCbHW79QQB

Silk Copper 3D Printer Filament PLA 1.75 mm 1 KG (2.2 LBS) Spool 3D PLA Printing Material Silky Shine Shiny Metal CC3D Metallic PLA Like https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0761PMW3X/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_e1mVCb9X70V7M

Try this, I just got some and it's working well.


https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01IIAC2MW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

CC3D has amazing copper and gold (don’t bother with the silver). Silk Copper PLA 3D Printer Filament 1.75 mm 1KG 2.2LBS Spool 3D Printing Material CC3D Shine Silky Shiny Metallic Metal Red Purple Copper PLA Filament https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0761PMW3X/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_eRrBDbSCBP7H5

This is using the Ziro marble filament.

It took about 10 hours.

Model of the original at the Minneapolis Art Institute

Thanks! It’s Hatchbox Wood PLA. I would’ve preferred a darker color but this was the only one in stock and I’m not a patient man...

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01092XXD4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_I0n0CbFH4KKNR

There is also cleaning filament. It is safe to use at ABS and PLA temperatures. Just extrude the cleaning filament until it starts coming out clean. Then lower or raise the temperature to match the new plastic and extrude it until the cleaning filament is no longer being extruded. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MVIYNFW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_HzGvybEZNY8K2

A filament with some percentage of wood added to create different finishes as compared to other filaments.

HATCHBOX 1.75mm Wood 3D Printer Filament - 1kg Spool (2.2 lbs) - Dimensional Accuracy +/- 0.05mm

I want to see somebody try Siraya Tech Blu. I saw a video where somebody made a 22lr suppressor out of this stuff and it held up fine.

It was this from amazon!

It shows decent shipping for me, says id get it in a bit over a week. Its 5$ more than amazon as seller though https://www.amazon.com/HATCHBOX-3D-WOOD-1KG1-75-Filament-Dimensional/dp/B01092XXD4/ref=s9_simh_gw_g328_i2_r?_encoding=UTF8&fpl=fresh&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=&pf_rd_r=9D8V700W3MJKX2N6FQEN&pf_rd_t=36701&pf_rd_p=a6aaf593-1ba4-4f4e-bdcc-0febe090b8ed&pf_rd_i=desktop&th=1

I swear by this filament. I run it through when doing filament changes, as well as nozzle changes. I also use it if I get a clog.

it's PLA - I'm using the Inland brand. I kicked it up to 215 because it says - Recommended Extrusion/Nozzle Temperature: 215°C - 230°C on the description.

1) Solutech pla (very cheap $)

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ME7CV7C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Wi.WAb1C7EF7D

2) Hatchbox pla carbon fiber (more $$$, not to mention you need a wear-resistant nozzle)

Both from amazon

This is using the cheapest PLA I could find on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/3D-Solutech-Filament-Dimensional-Accuracy/dp/B00ME7CV7C

It's available on the US amazon $34...
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01092XXD4/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1492206271&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=hatchbox+wood+pla&dpPl=1&dpID=511IFoPtR4L&ref=plSrch

Thanks I'll try bumping up the temp a bit.

The color is a bit weird because of the lighting, but it's just this common filament: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01092XXD4/ref=cm_sw_r_em_apa_i_kFv4Db1J16DN1

Amz3D. Gone through about 4 spools of different colors, solid brand imo.

https://www.amazon.ca/1-75mm-White-PLA-Printer-Filament/dp/B01BZO8O3O/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1503881382&sr=1-1

this stuff

Haven't had any problems with it so far.

Metal, most likely no as I don't have any experience with it. (plus the price)

Wood, maybe. I have a good bit of woodworking knowledge, but not at this small of a scale. If I were to do it in wood, it may be just wood 3D printer filament

I went with this

Blu by Siraya


I use ChiTuBox and these are my print settings

I do about a 10-15% mix with Anycubic Grey and these are my last print results

Edit: Forgot to add, I cure my model for about 15 minutes before priming.

HATCHBOX PLA 3D Printer Filament, Dimensional Accuracy +/- 0.03 mm, 1 kg Spool, 1.75 mm, Red https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00J0GO8I0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_FWCMBbP5V8G8H

HATCHBOX PLA 3D Printer Filament, Dimensional Accuracy +/- 0.03 mm, 1 kg Spool, 1.75 mm, Blue https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00J0GPC80/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_XXCMBbGAYCBC9

HATCHBOX PLA 3D Printer Filament, Dimensional Accuracy +/- 0.03 mm, 1 kg Spool, 1.75 mm, Orange https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00J0EE1D4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_dYCMBbS2R4SC0

HATCHBOX PLA 3D Printer Filament, Dimensional Accuracy +/- 0.03 mm, 1 kg Spool, 1.75 mm, Yellow https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00J0GRREW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_rYCMBbCXR8SPH


And alot
More just loook around

Here.

EDIT: that's abs. This should be orange PLA

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MB3CV6K/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Its this one -- https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MB3CV6K/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

3D Solutech Silver Metal 3D... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ME7YUIU?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

3D Solutech Silver Metal PLA
Min .08 thickess
Max 2.4 thickness

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ME7YUIU/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Get some cleaning filament.

Filament and cleaner.

Hatchbox wood PLA 1.75mm

that exists by the way.

https://www.amazon.com/HATCHBOX-3D-Filament-Dimensional-Accuracy/dp/B01092XXD4

It's all one type of filament. You can have give it various looks with different types of stain.

https://www.amazon.com/HATCHBOX-3D-Filament-Dimensional-Accuracy/dp/B01092XXD4?crid=3QYW3EJW2UMOP&keywords=hatchbox+wood&qid=1536927700&sprefix=hatchb&sr=8-1&ref=mp_s_a_1_1