Reddit mentions: The best air conditioning line repair tools

Are you using an NPT or triclamp style tube? If you're using NPT (national pipe thread, american pipes in inches basically) you can get a brass NPT ball valve, a reducer to put into the valve for a smaller thread size, and another brass piece, this time a 1/4" flared end for gas. You'll need teflon pipe threading tape to seal everything up and a vice grip or a couple of pipe wrenches to put the thing together. You can get all of this on amazon.

If you have a device like in picture with triclamp ends you'd already know where to get all of this crap but www.glaciertanks.com and www.brewershardware.com sell all the triclamp pieces you will ever need. Glacier Tanks is in oregon and supports the CLS extractor community directly by selling pre-fabbed terpinator style lids and collection pots, Brewers Hardware has a bunch of stuff they don't carry though as well. I've used both and they are awesome. Brewers Hardware also has lower prices on a lot of stuff like the spools you'll be using as extraction tubes, and they sell the national pipe thread to triclamp ends that I'm gonna need to modify my own old open blast tubes (my 1-2 and 3-5oz tubes depending on material and how tight it packs) into CLS parts. I have a calculator setup i've figured out though for how big of a tube can fit how much material for CLS use though. a 3"x18" spool fits about a half pound (bhogart sells a 3"x36" as their 1LB unit and it fits roughly that), so I figured out its volume from there and I can figure out how big of a tube will fit say 1oz, 2 ounces, and so on. you don't need perfectly filled tubes with CLS extractors either, you can fluff the top with coffee filters so the butane disperses evenly on the top, and typically in a shower style unit like the Bhogart, the top few inches don't get properly extracted anyways if you fill it all the way to the brim. I try to leave 2-3 inches at the top of the 36" column bare so it can just shower down and it seems to work really well, but with a narrower tube size you will probably be okay.

IF you got this far, you also are going to want a can cracker. You can use it on the top of the pipe in lieu of the brass hose hookup by screwing it directly to the top, but you need to make sure you get the right fittings for it. It looks like the crackers they sell all have the 1/4" flare end facing the wrong angle, so you'll probably need the hose after all. here's the cracker and a link to the right type of hose, as well as a link to one of the fitting types (though maybe not in the right NPT thread you need).

cracker: http://smile.amazon.com/Robinair-10102-Side-R134A-Respective/dp/B0009XT7NY/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1421275663&sr=8-2&keywords=refrigerant+can+

PTFE lined chemical hose buying list. you want 1/4": http://smile.amazon.com/Unisource-Chemical-Assembly-Connection-Pressure/dp/B007USNQNI/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1421275772&sr=8-6&keywords=ptfe+lined+hose

the style of brass end you need: http://smile.amazon.com/dp/B000WTXICQ/ref=biss_dp_t_asn

brass coupler to put the end into:
http://smile.amazon.com/dp/B006PKMJCQ/ref=biss_dp_t_asn

something to put the brass coupler into to make it fit your valve: http://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00835RTY4/ref=biss_dp_t_asn
2" brass valve: http://smile.amazon.com/dp/B0081LIGIS/ref=biss_dp_t_asn

ptfe tape: http://smile.amazon.com/Dixon-Valve-Coupling-TTB50-Temperature/dp/B00IIJB7F2/ref=sr_1_3?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1421277137&sr=1-3&keywords=ptfe+tape


after reading around, you said your pipe was 2" so i modified the list with everything you'd need to modify a 2" pipe.

I would go for this chamber:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vacuum-and-Degassing-chamber-1-5GL-/221257099507?pt=BI_Pumps&hash=item3383f368f3

If not this one, then a stainless steel one, the bell plastic chambers are not good if you have a heat pad or something in it.

Go for this vac pump:

http://www.amazon.com/FJC-KIT6-Vacuum-Pump-Gauge/dp/B001C6LG3Q/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1375192421&sr=8-2&keywords=vacuum+pump

You could get one cheaper there on amazon, search around, but this set includes a lot of gauges and wires that could be useful.

This hot plate is battery powered, fits in the chamber, and can keep a pretty good constant low temp:

http://www.amazon.com/Aroma-AHP-303-Single-Plate-Black/dp/B0007QCRNU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1375192614&sr=8-1&keywords=battery+hot+plate

Hopefully this gets you started in the right direction, there are many many options for a nice vac set up, I'm sure if you look around you'll find good deals.

I bought my chamber off of ebay, if you want to stabilize wood ive read you need to get a pyrex lid for the chamber, or if you're just using a pressure pot or something to make one I guess you don't have to worry about it but it helps to see inside to prevent overflow. There's a few different brands but shattervac is the one that comes to mind it's designed specifically for stabalizing wood .This is the pump I bought and it works like a champ, what you're paying for with the pumps is speed, and to evacuate a small chamber doesn't really take long. I would definitely invest in some casting resin though it's amazing what you can do with it, i think I paid 30$ for half a gallon and I haven't even gone through half of it yet even with all my dicking around with it.

Light : https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07D6D91FC?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

Dye: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B002M4E0VC?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

Light has 3 strength settings ajs uses 3 AA.
Very bright. I was amazed when I found the leak. Super bright with the dye. I did look at night to make sure I found it but I'm sure you don't have to look ar night, I just wanted to really make sure I could see it lol

Without tools, the best you can really do is look for oiliness on the pipe. When you find a joint that feels oily (look for dark colours on the pipe, usually covered in very fine dust. Once you rub the dusty area with your fingers you'll feel the oiliness), spray/pour a small amount of washing up liquid over it and look for bubbles. If there's any refrigerant left in the system, you'll usually see bubbles appear (or over a longer period, foam). Of course if the gas has all escaped already - and we're only talking a couple of hundred grams here - then you won't see any bubbles.

Most domestic gear has no access fitting at all so even locating the leak can be difficult if there's no visual indication. You need to get pressure in there so you can leak test - this means adding a bullet piercing valve (like this).

Then you need to put something in via your bullet piercing valve to raise the system pressure. It's best to use dry nitrogen to leak test to save wasting refrigerant, but since you most likely don't have that on hand you could buy yourself some refrigerant (most likely R134a) and pressurise with that. That's a big no-no here (both disposable cylinders and dumping gas to atmosphere by charging a system with a known leak) but I'm guessing your in the US, and those sorts of laws seem remarkably lax so go for gold. It's not like you'll be ruining MY ozone layer too, right? ;)

You also need to regulate the pressure going in to the system. This is where you need gauges. Connect the yellow line to your bottle, connect the blue line loosely to your bullet piercing valve, purge from cylinder to piercing valve by opening the cylinder tap + gauges tap, and releasing some pressure via the loose fitting, then tighten the fitting and close your gauges tap. Open the bullet piercing valve. Open the gauges tap slowly and give it ~50psi of system pressure.

Then you can go for gold with your soap, or you can lash out and grab yourself some "proper" leak detection fluid (like this), or better yet an electronic leak detector (like this one).

Once you've found your leak, you want to release your nitrogen (or reclaim your refrigerant using a reclaim plant and a spare cylinder), then repair it using an oxy/acetalyne set, or since it's only tiny pipework you can get away with a MAPP gas set.

If it's a copper->copper joint, you're laughing - polish the pipework up with emery cloth, heat the pipe until it's just this side of glowing red, and feed the joint with brown tip silver solder.

If it's a copper->steel joint, then it's a bit more of a pain. You need blue tip silver solder and flux. Clean your joint with the emery cloth, give it a nice coating of flux on every surface you need solder to stick to, then heat it up until it's a fair way short of glowing red. Feed the blue tip solder in and STOP. Unlike brown tip (15% silver) you can't just keep feeding blue tip (45% silver) as it ruins the weld.

Now, since you put on a bullet piercing valve and they leak like a sieve in the long term, we need to replace that with a schrader access valve. Since it's most likely going to be in a straight through piece of pipe, you can save time and grab yourself a pre made access valve in 1/4" pipe. Cut away the hole left by the bullet piercing valve, polish the copper and cut the pipework with a ~10mm gap using a tube cutter. Then slip your access fitting assembly in there, and follow the copper->copper joint procedure.

Of course, now that we've done all that you need to change the liquid line filter drier too. I'd recommend a 1/4" solder in core drier in place of the original copper spun drier because... well, copper spun driers are terrible. Follow the pipe cutting procedure from the piercing valve instructions and the soldering instructions from the copper->copper joint instructions and that's done too. Remember - always try and mount the drier so it's outlet is LOWER than its inlet. This turns the drier into a small liquid receiver and helps ensure a good liquid seal over the capillary tube. Speaking of capillary tubes, if it was inserted straight into the original copper spun drier CUT the capillary, don't try and unsweat it. The chances of blocking it up are about 82.5634% (approximately) when you unsweat capillarys. You're much better off chopping it with a set of capillary tube cutters and ensuring a good clean capillary. The ~30mm of wasted capillary will affect performance, but almost certainly not to any sort of measurable degree.

Then give the system a good evacuation using a vacuum pump and ensure it reaches a good vacuum (sub-500 micron) with a digital vacuum gauge.

Then using a set of electronic scales, charge your freshly evacuated system (remembering to purge!) to the charge recommended by the manufacturer.

Voila! You have just fixed your chest freezer.

..... Alternatively, pay someone to do it for you and/or recycle the components and buy yourself a new one.

Sounds like vacuum would be your best choice - no rotovap (the roto part and delicate doesn't seem to go well together for me) and no heat necessary.

Sealing the container and getting a cheap vacuum pump and leaving it running would make a huge difference imo. Just make sure that the container in which you soak your stuff won't explode from the vacuum. It'd be best if, while under vacuum, the container would be in another container, that would contain the possible explosion - for your own safety.




https://www.amazon.com/Kozyvacu-TA350-Single-Stage-Refrigerant-Recharging/dp/B01N6IOBWF/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=vacuum+pump&qid=1566315507&s=gateway&sr=8-3

I added an image and now it does not show my text post.. Here it is again:

Looking at this specifically.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0009XT7NY/ref=ox_sc_act_image_21?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

I have a 90g closed column pressurized extractor from Extraction Experts. (http://www.extractionexperts.com/products.html) It includes:
Main Stainless Steel herb fill column.
1 top lid with valve and 3/8 gas flare fitting.
1 bottom lid with valve and fine barb exit port.
1 50 micron screen.
1 150 micron screen.
2 clamps to secure each lid.

The question:

1. How does this can tapper work, and what else would I need to use with '5x Power super refined butane gas' cans? The can has some sort of plastic adaptors on top?
   
2. Is there a way to attach a pressure Guage to my system? From my understanding, I should create a negative pressure in my column so all the butane will transfer into the column from the can. I don't want to over /under pressurize my column. I have a 2 stage 5 CFM pump.
   
3. what would be the next steps in upgrading my system? I was thinking obviously I could get another 1.5" spool and make the column taller, but I want to eventually reclaim.
   
4. The vacuum I got has a Kuri Tec® POLYSPRING® PVC Food & Beverage Vacuum Hose Series K7160 attached to it. Is this ok? Should I ditch it and buy a different hose? I understand stainless steel or PTFE is preferred?
   
5. The image is my current set up, am I missing anything for my first BHO run?
   
   Really appreciate want help. Thanks to all!

The answer really depends on where its leaking from. If you can find the leak UV dye can help if you cant find it make sure to get a black light and yellow glasses. Let the car idle for a bit and let the cooling fan kick on and off a couple of times while monitoring the temperature gauge making sure you don't over heat. Put on the glasses and shine the light on all of the cooling system components looking for anything that shines green. Once you know where its leaking from you will know if you can tackle the job yourself, as others have said a bad hose/connection is easy, but a radiator and head gasket are tougher. A radiator is doable with a good walkthrough and I'm sure there are plenty out there, but the head gasket would be pretty tough on someone with limited experience and tools.

As far as repair. unless it's in warranty, it's likely going to be cheaper to replace it. many of these units are closed, and aren't easy to charge. If the condenser is all flat on the back, try straightening it yourself with a condenser comb (http://www.amazon.com/automotive/dp/B000JFL8HK). If you need help with install, well, it isn't difficult, and you can likely do it yourself. If it's a particularly big unit, have a friend help you lift and support it while you get it in the window.

On my car yes, because it's gasoline. I'm trying to say that vehicles with low manifold vacuum like diesels often have external vacuum pumps. Didn't realize this was such a controversial opinion. Like this: https://www.amazon.com/Dorman-904-214-Electrical-Vacuum-Select/dp/B001KQF6PC

​

Now, if the brakes are powered by hydraulic assist from the power steering instead then fair enough. I ain't a diesel guy.

​

Will seppuku restore my honor?

Gasses can stay in solution because of temperature, and because of pressure. With soda, opening the top releases all the pressure, and so all of the CO2 bubbles come out of solution and fizz up - CO2 is a gas at room temp and pressure, like butane.

We can only heat up our product so much, and so we can do the rest of the work with pressure. Applying a vacuum to the concentrate forces the remaining butane still in solution to become a vapor, which can bubble out.

Something like this would be awesome: http://www.amazon.com/Actron-CP7830-Hand-Vacuum-Pump/dp/B0009XQUK2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1346382578&sr=8-1&keywords=hand+vacuum+pump

That, the right top, and a mason jar is all that you need. Warm it up on some parchment paper till it's very runny, put the piece of paper in the jar, vacuum the crap out of it and watch it bubble up, let it cool. Repeat 3-4x.

Being that it was Firestone, I'm surprised it wasn't more to be honest. Still though you can certainly save yourself $40-$50. You can get a cheap vacuum pump off amazon that will get the job done for $60 here: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B012CFTYX4/ref=s9_acsd_top_hd_bw_b13u7N_c_x_1_w?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=merchandised-search-3&pf_rd_r=NXXYP4JC802N2NRXEGN7&pf_rd_t=101&pf_rd_p=e98866ae-299e-5a56-8e32-a4a8bf2f2b3f&pf_rd_i=15707041

Just dont expect it to be /r/buyitforlife quality of course.

As far as finding on the how to of AC systems I would check out ChrisFix's videos here:

How to replace a compressor: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rulXlnG2Unk

How to recharge an AC system: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Pdq8JAlct6s

How to find a leak (if need be): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pCv7rCdcXsc

Ok. Here is what you need to do and it’s what a mechanic shop would also do. If you do not have the following then you can get them from amazon. I have included the links below.


Interdynamics Certified A/C Pro UV Leak Detection Kit, UV Light with Glasses, 438 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003JOB594/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_NWX7CbJHG1TTV

Tracer Spectronics Corp TP39000008 Dye-Lite Coolant/Auto Body Dye https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000NPIYLO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_MZX7CbMADX2P3

It’s about $40 in detection parts but totally worth it. Fill your radiator and overflow tank with coolant (super cheap concentrate with water mix from Walmart is fine) and then add about .5- .75 ounces directly into the radiator. Keep track of your coolant levels and within a day (maybe more it depends on the size or location/locations of the leak) you can use the uv light and glasses to pinpoint the leak. If you have a garage you can do this in then great if not wait for nighttime and make sure you are not near any street lights.

This will pinpoint the leak and we can go from there. Hopefully it’s just something that was not tightened correctly/a hose.

It does not have to be super precise. You hold upside down to drain it out and then pour new oil into it with a funnel, assuming the ports are on the upper side of the unit like most compressors.

Since it's used I would do this a few times to get any traces of anything bad out of it.

If the compressor self-destructed, I would strongly recommend flushing the evap/condensor and lines.

Also a new receiver/dryer is also a good idea. Then of course replenish oil levels as needed.

https://www.amazon.com/FJC-2710-System-Flush-Kit/dp/B0002JMEQW

This is the one I purchased. It gets around our Subaru group pretty well. People love it.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B012CFTYX4/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_CB2IwbH651W8M. This is all you need in a vacuum. I've been working on both a bestvalue and a provac recently. Hands down the best value has an easier seal to deal with than the provac. The vacuum listed links an adapter. You might need this depending on the hosing you use

Based on the pictures you linked and the fact you said the fluid looks orange/green, I would bet it is coolant. Looks like it may be coming from a radiator hose. If you can't easily find it, you can confirm by putting a shot of tracer dye into your coolant tank and let the engine run for a bit, then shining a UV flashlight around your engine bay at night. The florescent tracer dye in the coolant will glow brightly where it's dripping out, letting you easily find out where the leak is coming from.

Tracer dye can be bought off Amazon or from most automotive stores. It looks like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000NPIYM8/

Your edit probably covers more than I could tell you. I use 409 or purple power, nothing special. I did mean rinse with water, just dry everything up as best you can and keep the water away from the alternator, battery and air filter. And you could use power tools. Power tools make everything more fun. For example a pump could be used to suck out the wells as you rinsed with degreaser / water. Sort of like getting your teeth cleaned at the dentist.

Cheap One

Good One

I've got a 2000 honda civic and need to do some A/C work.

think I might be buying this kit
http://www.amazon.com/FJC-KIT6-Vacuum-Pump-Gauge/dp/B001C6LG3Q/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1371620274&sr=8-3&keywords=ac+gauges

pretty good video on AC
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lglPJuBXVeE

FAQ about doing it on honda-tech
http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=1665946

Also sometimes you can get the tools on loaner program with Autozone or Advance Auto

Fixing it is really easy. It's just plumbing, and the special tools needed can be bought for $130 online.

I know people have different priorities, but I consider AC to be pretty much a direct quality of life feature on a daily driver. Cleaning out a muddy alternator ain't that hard.

Thanks for the info, I was thinking bout going to my local autozone, I just wasn't sure of the type of pump and what places would have it, I'm probably gonna get one online, I just don't know how to tell if it's good or not, what do you think about this?

https://www.amazon.com/ZENY-Single-Stage-Economy-Conditioner-Refrigerant/dp/B012CFTYX4

And I've been considering this chamber

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B06XPSKLC7/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?th=1&psc=1

Had a similar problem, found out that the pump does not hold vacuum when shut off. Added a shut off valve to the yellow service hose, closed the valve before shutting off the pump when at 30 mmhg. Held vacuum after that. Not sure this is your solution is but thought I would share my experience.

Something like this. Attached the yellow valve to the end of the service hose and the other end to the pump port.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07S8CCN1H/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_OeTFDbN39Z97M

I just purchased a $100 5G vac chamber off amazon along with a vac pump off amazon as well - all said and done $160.


Tried to get link for Vac chamber setup but doesn’t look like it’s sold anymore, see vac pump link below though -

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B012CFTYX4/ref=ppx_yo_mob_b_inactive_ship_o0_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Buy a quality strut spring compressor, do NOT go cheap. I bought this one from OTC after renting the autozone version a few times. I like this one because it includes safety pins so the spring shouldn't be able to get out of the clamps. https://www.amazon.com/OTC-6494-Clamshell-Spring-Compressor/dp/B0002SRHU6

I dont think the can tapper would function properly with that ball valve. I think you need one like this

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0014JC9HI/ref=oh_details_o07_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

That adapter should work I think but I got this one and make sure you remove the internals that are not needed in our application and would reduce the flow of tane

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0056ODEP8/ref=oh_details_o02_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

And this is my can tapper

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0009XT7NY/ref=oh_details_o05_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

When you use a can tapper correctly the puncture point is at the bottom corner of the can so all of the butane can flow out as a liquid. Since the flow rate is increased the pressure inside the tube also increases and with my setup running two can tappers I increase the pressure even more.

It will withstand it mechanically but you will not be able to get down to those levels with a glass vacuum jar and a regular pump. The seal at the base won't be good enough for that. You need scientific grade stuff for that, and $600 is more like the cost of a few flanges. You'd want another zero or two to get a system that can get to 10e-8 torr.

Here's a starter system that's still probably not able to get that low:
http://www.lesker.com/newweb/chambers/std_boxchamber.cfm

What pump are you planning on using? A normal vacuum pump won't even come close. Like, not even remotely close.

This unit:

https://www.amazon.com/HomCom-Single-Stage-Rotary-Vacuum/dp/B00TUGWKAS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1480446818&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=vacuum+pump&psc=1

goes to about 0.04 torr (4e-2) and is a fairly common pump. I think you'd need cryogenic pumps to get down to 10e-8.

Nope. This is my new one. Got it used and a great deal from a guy getting out of the business.

https://www.amazon.com/Industries-GIDDS-131245-Platinum-Vacuum-Pump/dp/B003M5NCKU

Wide-Mouth Jar Adapter

I have a brake-bleeder hand pump, works just fine.

here is my parts list lol i think this would be a better idea splitter. can-tap. going from the splitter to my glacier top. and camico adapter. and ball valves. Does this look adequate or which part do I need to be able to press the valve depressor?

Hey guys as a heads up. In the lab if we make silicone we always degas the mixture before pouring. To degas just put the silicone after mixing into a closed container and pull vacuum. I think even a cheap aspirator will pull enough vacuum to work. Pull until the bubbles stop than you're good to go.

https://www.amazon.com/Dynalon-312635-Faucet-Aspirator-Vacuum/dp/B004AHL77E

https://www.amazon.com/Nalgene-6140-0010-Aspirator-Polypropylene-Threading/dp/B003OBYNBO

Both look promising. Google degassing silicone for more it's a common technique in soft litho.

Edit: For a chamber just get a plastic dessicator. They aren't that expensive : https://www.amazon.com/United-Scientific-55204-Polypropylene-Polycarbonate/dp/B00ES3GPMM

Edit2: Cus degassing silicone just looks so pretty : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bbSvzD8g_S0

Edit3: Decent part combo for degassing

https://www.amazon.com/Stainless-Chamber-Urethanes-Silicones-Epoxies/dp/B00KSWL29I/

https://www.amazon.com/Single-Stage-Rotary-Economy-Vacuum-Refrigerant/dp/B012CFTYX4/ref=pd_bxgy_236_img_2?ie=UTF8&refRID=1N0WKYM5MHVXTF9FVB8K

Remember keep the vacuum so that it slowly degasses you do not want it to bubble over and all into your chamber.

Alright so everything I got-

New condensor

r134a refrigerant

compressor kit

vacuum

vacuum gauge set

Think that's basically everything! Thoughts?

You have to vacuum the air out of the system before putting refrigerant in. You can do this yourself if you have a set of filler valves, a vacuum pump, and a very accurate digital scale. Most people don't have these lying around, so they'll just go to the shop for this part only.

Edit: You could use a kit like this. You would also need the scale to measure the correct amount of refrigerant going in.

Kozyvacu R134a Refrigerant Self-Piercing Can Tap Valve with 1/4 Flare port for AUTO AC recharging, Easily connecting with Quick Coupler https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073ZZSYWC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_UIEP31yzdf8t6

Check this out at Amazon.com
Interdynamics Certified A/C Pro Engine Cooling Systems UV Dye (1 Ounce) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002M4E0VC/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_Lp8wDb30153E3

Get some of this (AutoZone, Advance, O'Reilly all have it too) and some of the glasses and UV flashlight. Pour it in the coolant and let it run for just a short while (since it seems like it is leaking pretty fast, you don't want it to go too long and let the dye get all over the place, which will make it more difficult to track down the exact source of the leak)...then just wait until after dark and go outside, open the hood, put on the glasses and shine the UV light around under the hood until you see where looks like a highlighter exploded. I definitely don't recommend buying the stuff that you can pour into the radiator to "fix" a leak if you find one, that stuff seems to long term make matters worse, not better.

start with this and a blacklight - right tools for the job and all that

Interdynamics Certified A/C Pro Engine Cooling Systems UV Dye (1 Ounce) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002M4E0VC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_hPUADbY33B7CS

Here's my setup:

Vacuum Chamber: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00I3Q8D2K
$117

Pump:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B012CFTYX4

$52


That pot will hold a lot of wood, but you also need a couple gallons of Catus Juice to fill it. Grab a cheap toaster oven from Salvation Army to cure.

Listen to /u/Glock19mos. I don't typically dye (I purchase mine dyed) and his pictures speak volumes about his capabilities with the process.

https://www.amazon.com/ZENY-Single-Stage-Economy-Conditioner-Refrigerant/dp/B012CFTYX4/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1541546220&sr=1-1-spons&keywords=vacuum+pump&psc=1

vacuum pumps for your needs are cheap, https://www.amazon.com/ZENY-Single-Stage-Economy-Conditioner-Refrigerant/dp/B012CFTYX4/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1541948266&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=vacuum+pump&psc=1

Its called a side can tap.

You just have to remove the schrader valve inside the 1/4 fitting.

http://www.amazon.com/Robinair-10102-Side-R134A-Respective/dp/B0009XT7NY/ref=sr_1_11?ie=UTF8&qid=1412257252&sr=8-11&keywords=refrigerant+can+tap

what pump are you running with this one? http://www.amazon.com/FJC-KIT6-Vacuum-Pump-Gauge/dp/B001C6LG3Q/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1369336827&sr=8-3&keywords=vacuum+pump is this in the right ball park?

> stainless steel 316 Tee

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B003LSSLE0/ref=biss_dp_t_asn -----

>stainless steel 316 nipple 1/4 ----------
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004Y18C56/ref=pd_luc_rh_bxgy_01_02_t_lh?ie=UTF8&psc=1 ----

>ball vales
http://www.amazon.com/Stainless-Steel-Mini-Ball-Valve/dp/B006VE3BF0/ref=pd_sim_sbs_auto_2?ie=UTF8&refRID=0QATKNJ8JPYS71CX5ZPG

>can tap
http://www.amazon.com/Robinair-10102-Side-R134A-Respective/dp/B0009XT7NY/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1417119173&sr=8-2&keywords=can+tapper

fuck that, my truck needs this

Using this jar sealer and this vacuum pump, you can vacuum seal the big mason jars to store bulk items without having to buy an expensive food sealer.

Ever use the clamshell type such as http://www.amazon.ca/OTC-6494-Clamshell-Spring-Compressor/dp/B0002SRHU6

Yes the tension will help it stay on, but probably not enough. Get this stuff put it in your coolant, use an ultra violet light to look in the engine to find the leak.

http://www.amazon.com/Interdynamics-375CS-Radiator-Coolant-Dye/dp/B002M4E0VC

Here is the vacuum pump I use with a pressure gauge and a big pickle jar. It works. https://www.amazon.com/ZENY-Single-Stage-Economy-Conditioner-Refrigerant/dp/B012CFTYX4/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1501206918&sr=8-4&keywords=vacuum+pump

2004 Impala ex-owner here with a couple of tips for whatever they're worth.

First and foremost, the petcock (the drain valve for the radiator) is located right there where it drips in the first video, above the actual drain. Tighten that sucker up if it's loose -though I doubt that's the problem. It would be leaking from the middle of the drain, not around it.- which leads me to the next point.

Have you hit any hard potholes or bumps recently? Jiggle the radiator- does it move about, i.e. not snug and tight?

I ask because something similar happened to me traveling on a dirt road once, where I hit a bump, and it knocked the condenser off its hooks. The condenser/radiator aren't secured the best, and Chevy thought it would be genius to have protruding pointy screws right below it, and when the thing fell, the screws pierced the condenser and leaked all my A/C fluid. (I don't know your level of expertise, so just in case, the condenser is a smaller and thinner 'radiator' meant for the A/C system, and it sits in front of the radiator.) Maybe something similar may have happened to you.

That leak looks 85% likely that it's coming directly from the radiator, (and if not, it's coming from a hose that leads to/from the radiator, but I'm not convinced if it's pooling underneath.) Regardless, you're gonna be playing around with the radiator, so learn up on it- it's not that hard to replace.

If you're willing to splurge the extra $10-15, get yourself one of those UV dye kits that come with a UV dye and light. Clean and dry everything up as much as you can, and drip a couple of drops in the radiator. Let it flow for a minute with some coolant, and make like you're in CSI- look for highlighter splotches and follow them back. If they concentrate throughout the fins of the radiator or pool underneath it, you have to change the whole thing. If they seem to be a bit splattered higher up closer to a hose, you found the culprit. Either way, it's not a super hard or bad replacement if you have the patience and a basic set of tools. And if you can't see the source of the leak, as I said, it's most likely damage to the underside/ within the fins of the radiator.

Regardless, I always add my own personal disclaimer: I might be wrong.

Edit: The UV dye and the UV light in question. That particular dye says it's not compatible with DEX-COOL which the impala has, but if I were in that position, I'd give your radiator a nice flush anyways while you're down there. Or, look for one that is compatible.