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Are you using an NPT or triclamp style tube? If you're using NPT (national pipe thread, american pipes in inches basically) you can get a brass NPT ball valve, a reducer to put into the valve for a smaller thread size, and another brass piece, this time a 1/4" flared end for gas. You'll need teflon pipe threading tape to seal everything up and a vice grip or a couple of pipe wrenches to put the thing together. You can get all of this on amazon.

If you have a device like in picture with triclamp ends you'd already know where to get all of this crap but www.glaciertanks.com and www.brewershardware.com sell all the triclamp pieces you will ever need. Glacier Tanks is in oregon and supports the CLS extractor community directly by selling pre-fabbed terpinator style lids and collection pots, Brewers Hardware has a bunch of stuff they don't carry though as well. I've used both and they are awesome. Brewers Hardware also has lower prices on a lot of stuff like the spools you'll be using as extraction tubes, and they sell the national pipe thread to triclamp ends that I'm gonna need to modify my own old open blast tubes (my 1-2 and 3-5oz tubes depending on material and how tight it packs) into CLS parts. I have a calculator setup i've figured out though for how big of a tube can fit how much material for CLS use though. a 3"x18" spool fits about a half pound (bhogart sells a 3"x36" as their 1LB unit and it fits roughly that), so I figured out its volume from there and I can figure out how big of a tube will fit say 1oz, 2 ounces, and so on. you don't need perfectly filled tubes with CLS extractors either, you can fluff the top with coffee filters so the butane disperses evenly on the top, and typically in a shower style unit like the Bhogart, the top few inches don't get properly extracted anyways if you fill it all the way to the brim. I try to leave 2-3 inches at the top of the 36" column bare so it can just shower down and it seems to work really well, but with a narrower tube size you will probably be okay.

IF you got this far, you also are going to want a can cracker. You can use it on the top of the pipe in lieu of the brass hose hookup by screwing it directly to the top, but you need to make sure you get the right fittings for it. It looks like the crackers they sell all have the 1/4" flare end facing the wrong angle, so you'll probably need the hose after all. here's the cracker and a link to the right type of hose, as well as a link to one of the fitting types (though maybe not in the right NPT thread you need).

cracker: http://smile.amazon.com/Robinair-10102-Side-R134A-Respective/dp/B0009XT7NY/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1421275663&sr=8-2&keywords=refrigerant+can+

PTFE lined chemical hose buying list. you want 1/4": http://smile.amazon.com/Unisource-Chemical-Assembly-Connection-Pressure/dp/B007USNQNI/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1421275772&sr=8-6&keywords=ptfe+lined+hose

the style of brass end you need: http://smile.amazon.com/dp/B000WTXICQ/ref=biss_dp_t_asn

brass coupler to put the end into:
http://smile.amazon.com/dp/B006PKMJCQ/ref=biss_dp_t_asn

something to put the brass coupler into to make it fit your valve: http://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00835RTY4/ref=biss_dp_t_asn
2" brass valve: http://smile.amazon.com/dp/B0081LIGIS/ref=biss_dp_t_asn

ptfe tape: http://smile.amazon.com/Dixon-Valve-Coupling-TTB50-Temperature/dp/B00IIJB7F2/ref=sr_1_3?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1421277137&sr=1-3&keywords=ptfe+tape


after reading around, you said your pipe was 2" so i modified the list with everything you'd need to modify a 2" pipe.

any specific questions I can help with? I'm not sure what happened to that photo set. The honest value was just in seeing all the different sides for understanding assembly. BUT assembly is pretty easy when you see the parts in front of ya.

I would recommend buying hoses from discount hydraulic. Use FJX-06-06 for 3/8 female JIC on your hose.

On your system, use a 3/8 FNPT tee, and put a gauge (will need bushings to adapt size), and a 3/8 NPT valve with a NPT/JIC fitting.
I would consider using an 8in or 10 inch collection chamber. Couple that with a "shatter platter" for ease of collection.

You can get custom lids from Glacier tanks these days Ensure that yours has the fittings you need, and a central dip tube

6"

8"

10" with sight glass for extra funsies

For recovery manifold, I would do something similar to the MKIII design, although I only have a gauge and recovery port (pull vac from the same place) on mine. Simple is best.

For general quality stainless fittings: www.stainlesssteelfittings.com (also carry compression fittings)

I vomited a bunch of information. Let me know if there's some basic stuff I can point you in the direction of.

And check out the WIKI. it's a work in progress, so definitely ask questions.

These are much nicer tubes for about the same price. They come with a three pack of micron screens and a clamp. The one you linked to those are all extra.

I would not get anything cheaper or smaller than the provac you linked to. It's a great starter chamber and a good value.

That pump is not ideal. It is rated at 500u. Not enough for proper extracts. You really don't want to skimp out on the vac. It's extremely important to ensure properly purged oil. IMHO the minimum you want to be looking at is the Robinair 15300 but if it were me I'd spend a couple extra bucks and get the Robinair 15500. I own the 15550 and it works great! It's also probably the best value on the market right now at the price amazon is selling them.

I'd also advise picking up a roll of Oil Slick Sheet. You can blast right on to it. It works well for small runs.

As far as your tek, watch this video and do it just like shown and you'll be golden!

If you can afford them, an older US-made RobinAir pump is considered by many to be the highest quality pump you can buy, but they're not cheap. For stabilizing, I use a modern RobinAir 15310 that I bought on Amazon for $70 on sale. It works fine, although it does blow a fine oil mist into the air occasionally (use it outside).

I also have two Glass Vac chambers from Best Value Vacs (purchased on Amazon) in 3 & 5 gallon sizes. Perfect for pouring in a gallon or two of resin and stabilizing anything up to about 10" in diameter. The aluminum pots are easy to empty and clean after stabilizing.

The only downside is that I can't stabilize long pieces, since it has to fit reasonably in the pot and be submerged, but 90% of what I do is small project blanks.

This has been asked a thousand times, at least twice this past week. Please use the search next time. Anyway I'll just copy and paste my last response:

I would go for this chamber:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vacuum-and-Degassing-chamber-1-5GL-/221257099507?pt=BI_Pumps&hash=item3383f368f3

If not this one, then a stainless steel one, the bell plastic chambers are not good if you have a heat pad or something in it.

Go for this vac pump:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005CO9GX6/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?qid=1375793140&sr=1-5&pi=AA160
You could get one cheaper there on amazon or eBay, it's up to you, but I recommend a 3 CFM pump or higher.

This hot plate is battery powered, fits in the chamber, and can keep a pretty good constant low temp:
http://www.amazon.com/Aroma-AHP-303-Single-Plate-Black/dp/B0007QCRNU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1375192614&sr=8-1&keywords=battery+hot+plate
Hopefully this gets you started in the right direction, there are many many options for a nice vac set up, I'm sure if you look around you'll find good deals.

I bought my chamber off of ebay, if you want to stabilize wood ive read you need to get a pyrex lid for the chamber, or if you're just using a pressure pot or something to make one I guess you don't have to worry about it but it helps to see inside to prevent overflow. There's a few different brands but shattervac is the one that comes to mind it's designed specifically for stabalizing wood .This is the pump I bought and it works like a champ, what you're paying for with the pumps is speed, and to evacuate a small chamber doesn't really take long. I would definitely invest in some casting resin though it's amazing what you can do with it, i think I paid 30$ for half a gallon and I haven't even gone through half of it yet even with all my dicking around with it.

Without tools, the best you can really do is look for oiliness on the pipe. When you find a joint that feels oily (look for dark colours on the pipe, usually covered in very fine dust. Once you rub the dusty area with your fingers you'll feel the oiliness), spray/pour a small amount of washing up liquid over it and look for bubbles. If there's any refrigerant left in the system, you'll usually see bubbles appear (or over a longer period, foam). Of course if the gas has all escaped already - and we're only talking a couple of hundred grams here - then you won't see any bubbles.

Most domestic gear has no access fitting at all so even locating the leak can be difficult if there's no visual indication. You need to get pressure in there so you can leak test - this means adding a bullet piercing valve (like this).

Then you need to put something in via your bullet piercing valve to raise the system pressure. It's best to use dry nitrogen to leak test to save wasting refrigerant, but since you most likely don't have that on hand you could buy yourself some refrigerant (most likely R134a) and pressurise with that. That's a big no-no here (both disposable cylinders and dumping gas to atmosphere by charging a system with a known leak) but I'm guessing your in the US, and those sorts of laws seem remarkably lax so go for gold. It's not like you'll be ruining MY ozone layer too, right? ;)

You also need to regulate the pressure going in to the system. This is where you need gauges. Connect the yellow line to your bottle, connect the blue line loosely to your bullet piercing valve, purge from cylinder to piercing valve by opening the cylinder tap + gauges tap, and releasing some pressure via the loose fitting, then tighten the fitting and close your gauges tap. Open the bullet piercing valve. Open the gauges tap slowly and give it ~50psi of system pressure.

Then you can go for gold with your soap, or you can lash out and grab yourself some "proper" leak detection fluid (like this), or better yet an electronic leak detector (like this one).

Once you've found your leak, you want to release your nitrogen (or reclaim your refrigerant using a reclaim plant and a spare cylinder), then repair it using an oxy/acetalyne set, or since it's only tiny pipework you can get away with a MAPP gas set.

If it's a copper->copper joint, you're laughing - polish the pipework up with emery cloth, heat the pipe until it's just this side of glowing red, and feed the joint with brown tip silver solder.

If it's a copper->steel joint, then it's a bit more of a pain. You need blue tip silver solder and flux. Clean your joint with the emery cloth, give it a nice coating of flux on every surface you need solder to stick to, then heat it up until it's a fair way short of glowing red. Feed the blue tip solder in and STOP. Unlike brown tip (15% silver) you can't just keep feeding blue tip (45% silver) as it ruins the weld.

Now, since you put on a bullet piercing valve and they leak like a sieve in the long term, we need to replace that with a schrader access valve. Since it's most likely going to be in a straight through piece of pipe, you can save time and grab yourself a pre made access valve in 1/4" pipe. Cut away the hole left by the bullet piercing valve, polish the copper and cut the pipework with a ~10mm gap using a tube cutter. Then slip your access fitting assembly in there, and follow the copper->copper joint procedure.

Of course, now that we've done all that you need to change the liquid line filter drier too. I'd recommend a 1/4" solder in core drier in place of the original copper spun drier because... well, copper spun driers are terrible. Follow the pipe cutting procedure from the piercing valve instructions and the soldering instructions from the copper->copper joint instructions and that's done too. Remember - always try and mount the drier so it's outlet is LOWER than its inlet. This turns the drier into a small liquid receiver and helps ensure a good liquid seal over the capillary tube. Speaking of capillary tubes, if it was inserted straight into the original copper spun drier CUT the capillary, don't try and unsweat it. The chances of blocking it up are about 82.5634% (approximately) when you unsweat capillarys. You're much better off chopping it with a set of capillary tube cutters and ensuring a good clean capillary. The ~30mm of wasted capillary will affect performance, but almost certainly not to any sort of measurable degree.

Then give the system a good evacuation using a vacuum pump and ensure it reaches a good vacuum (sub-500 micron) with a digital vacuum gauge.

Then using a set of electronic scales, charge your freshly evacuated system (remembering to purge!) to the charge recommended by the manufacturer.

Voila! You have just fixed your chest freezer.

..... Alternatively, pay someone to do it for you and/or recycle the components and buy yourself a new one.

Sounds like vacuum would be your best choice - no rotovap (the roto part and delicate doesn't seem to go well together for me) and no heat necessary.

Sealing the container and getting a cheap vacuum pump and leaving it running would make a huge difference imo. Just make sure that the container in which you soak your stuff won't explode from the vacuum. It'd be best if, while under vacuum, the container would be in another container, that would contain the possible explosion - for your own safety.




https://www.amazon.com/Kozyvacu-TA350-Single-Stage-Refrigerant-Recharging/dp/B01N6IOBWF/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=vacuum+pump&qid=1566315507&s=gateway&sr=8-3

I added an image and now it does not show my text post.. Here it is again:

Looking at this specifically.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0009XT7NY/ref=ox_sc_act_image_21?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

I have a 90g closed column pressurized extractor from Extraction Experts. (http://www.extractionexperts.com/products.html) It includes:
Main Stainless Steel herb fill column.
1 top lid with valve and 3/8 gas flare fitting.
1 bottom lid with valve and fine barb exit port.
1 50 micron screen.
1 150 micron screen.
2 clamps to secure each lid.

The question:

1. How does this can tapper work, and what else would I need to use with '5x Power super refined butane gas' cans? The can has some sort of plastic adaptors on top?
   
2. Is there a way to attach a pressure Guage to my system? From my understanding, I should create a negative pressure in my column so all the butane will transfer into the column from the can. I don't want to over /under pressurize my column. I have a 2 stage 5 CFM pump.
   
3. what would be the next steps in upgrading my system? I was thinking obviously I could get another 1.5" spool and make the column taller, but I want to eventually reclaim.
   
4. The vacuum I got has a Kuri Tec® POLYSPRING® PVC Food & Beverage Vacuum Hose Series K7160 attached to it. Is this ok? Should I ditch it and buy a different hose? I understand stainless steel or PTFE is preferred?
   
5. The image is my current set up, am I missing anything for my first BHO run?
   
   Really appreciate want help. Thanks to all!

Interesting idea! I went on a hunt and this is the coolest thing I've found:

• https://www.flickr.com/photos/seehere/434844917/?rb=1
  
  It's done with a process called plastination:
  
  > The water and fat are replaced by certain plastics, yielding specimens that can be touched, do not smell or decay, and even retain most properties of the original sample.
  
  
  They're been doing this since 1970s so I figure there's probably a guide online. Next logical step was a search for "DIY plastination":
  
  
• http://www.vhlab.umn.edu/atlas/methodologies/preservation/plastination.shtml
  
  I do not have any evidence that the same procedure would work on mushroom flesh, other than the flickr link above.
  
  EDIT:
  
  Per the plastination patent by Gunther von Hagens:
  
  >EXAMPLE 3
  
  >A globular cactus having a diameter of approximately 15 cm was partly hollowed out from its root end by means of a curette, and it was then immersed sequentially for three hours each in 50% aqueous acetone, pure acetone, and dichloromethane. Thereafter it was immersed in a solution of a commercial epoxy resin prepolymer stable at low temperature, but curing at elevated temperature. The vat holding the prepolymer and the immersed cactus was stored in a vacuum at 10° C. for eight hours, whereby all volatile solvent was extracted. When drained of excess prepolymer and held in an oven at 40° C. for six hours, the cactus hardened, but otherwise retained its original appearance and color.
  
  Just curious how much a DIY setup would cost so I made a shopping list:
  
  
• vacuum chamber
  
  
• dichloromethane
  
  
• acetone
  
  
• epoxy resin
  
  
• vacuum pump
  
  
• vacuum safe container to act as dry ice acetone trap
  
  
• dry ice

As far as repair. unless it's in warranty, it's likely going to be cheaper to replace it. many of these units are closed, and aren't easy to charge. If the condenser is all flat on the back, try straightening it yourself with a condenser comb (http://www.amazon.com/automotive/dp/B000JFL8HK). If you need help with install, well, it isn't difficult, and you can likely do it yourself. If it's a particularly big unit, have a friend help you lift and support it while you get it in the window.

Its a bit pricier but for holding a deep vac on a 5 gallon ive never had a robinair fail me.
https://www.amazon.com/Robinair-15300-VacuMaster-Economy-Vacuum/dp/B000O1E5UQ

What is your elevation also? Neat perfect vacuum is hard to achieve much over sea level.

On my car yes, because it's gasoline. I'm trying to say that vehicles with low manifold vacuum like diesels often have external vacuum pumps. Didn't realize this was such a controversial opinion. Like this: https://www.amazon.com/Dorman-904-214-Electrical-Vacuum-Select/dp/B001KQF6PC

​

Now, if the brakes are powered by hydraulic assist from the power steering instead then fair enough. I ain't a diesel guy.

​

Will seppuku restore my honor?

Gasses can stay in solution because of temperature, and because of pressure. With soda, opening the top releases all the pressure, and so all of the CO2 bubbles come out of solution and fizz up - CO2 is a gas at room temp and pressure, like butane.

We can only heat up our product so much, and so we can do the rest of the work with pressure. Applying a vacuum to the concentrate forces the remaining butane still in solution to become a vapor, which can bubble out.

Something like this would be awesome: http://www.amazon.com/Actron-CP7830-Hand-Vacuum-Pump/dp/B0009XQUK2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1346382578&sr=8-1&keywords=hand+vacuum+pump

That, the right top, and a mason jar is all that you need. Warm it up on some parchment paper till it's very runny, put the piece of paper in the jar, vacuum the crap out of it and watch it bubble up, let it cool. Repeat 3-4x.

Being that it was Firestone, I'm surprised it wasn't more to be honest. Still though you can certainly save yourself $40-$50. You can get a cheap vacuum pump off amazon that will get the job done for $60 here: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B012CFTYX4/ref=s9_acsd_top_hd_bw_b13u7N_c_x_1_w?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=merchandised-search-3&pf_rd_r=NXXYP4JC802N2NRXEGN7&pf_rd_t=101&pf_rd_p=e98866ae-299e-5a56-8e32-a4a8bf2f2b3f&pf_rd_i=15707041

Just dont expect it to be /r/buyitforlife quality of course.

As far as finding on the how to of AC systems I would check out ChrisFix's videos here:

How to replace a compressor: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rulXlnG2Unk

How to recharge an AC system: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Pdq8JAlct6s

How to find a leak (if need be): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pCv7rCdcXsc

I have this 5cfm FJC pump that I use with a very similar 1.5 gallon stainless steel chamber and it works great. I honestly haven't done too much looking around though so someone may chime in with a better suggestion.

Ok. Here is what you need to do and it’s what a mechanic shop would also do. If you do not have the following then you can get them from amazon. I have included the links below.


Interdynamics Certified A/C Pro UV Leak Detection Kit, UV Light with Glasses, 438 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003JOB594/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_NWX7CbJHG1TTV

Tracer Spectronics Corp TP39000008 Dye-Lite Coolant/Auto Body Dye https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000NPIYLO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_MZX7CbMADX2P3

It’s about $40 in detection parts but totally worth it. Fill your radiator and overflow tank with coolant (super cheap concentrate with water mix from Walmart is fine) and then add about .5- .75 ounces directly into the radiator. Keep track of your coolant levels and within a day (maybe more it depends on the size or location/locations of the leak) you can use the uv light and glasses to pinpoint the leak. If you have a garage you can do this in then great if not wait for nighttime and make sure you are not near any street lights.

This will pinpoint the leak and we can go from there. Hopefully it’s just something that was not tightened correctly/a hose.

Don't waste your time on a brake bleeding kit. Hand pumps take constant strenuous pumping to reach -29mm/hg and they aren't meant for that sort of constant use. I went through 3 hand pumps that each lasted a maximum of 3 weeks before I sucked it up and bought an electric pump. You can find them on amazon for around $100. Best purchase I've ever made.

Here's a 3.0 cfm single stage robinair that would be more than sufficient (I use a 1.5 cfm and it pulls the necessary vac in seconds). http://www.amazon.com/Robinair-15310-VacuMaster-Single-Stage/dp/B005CO9GX6/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1343111350&sr=8-7&keywords=vacuum+pump

I've had success UV dye:

https://smile.amazon.com/Interdynamics-Certified-Fuel-Systems-ounce/dp/B002M4G24U/

Here's some cheap blacklights:

https://smile.amazon.com/Interdynamics-Certified-Detection-Glasses-438/dp/B003JOB594/

https://smile.amazon.com/POCKETMAN-UV-Ultraviolet-Blacklights-Flashlight-Detecting/dp/B01FS64GNC/

That being said, ih8mud is a much better place for these questions. It's much more active.

This is the one I purchased. It gets around our Subaru group pretty well. People love it.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B012CFTYX4/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_CB2IwbH651W8M. This is all you need in a vacuum. I've been working on both a bestvalue and a provac recently. Hands down the best value has an easier seal to deal with than the provac. The vacuum listed links an adapter. You might need this depending on the hosing you use

Something like this would be a better option. Though it is about 3 times as expensive. I wouldn't go cheap on your pump though. You'll end up wanting a better one later.

I've got a 2000 honda civic and need to do some A/C work.

think I might be buying this kit
http://www.amazon.com/FJC-KIT6-Vacuum-Pump-Gauge/dp/B001C6LG3Q/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1371620274&sr=8-3&keywords=ac+gauges

pretty good video on AC
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lglPJuBXVeE

FAQ about doing it on honda-tech
http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=1665946

Also sometimes you can get the tools on loaner program with Autozone or Advance Auto

Fixing it is really easy. It's just plumbing, and the special tools needed can be bought for $130 online.

I know people have different priorities, but I consider AC to be pretty much a direct quality of life feature on a daily driver. Cleaning out a muddy alternator ain't that hard.

chamber

pump This works for me but honestly you'll want to get a two stage pump as mentioned in the below article.

Useful reading

Thanks for the info, I was thinking bout going to my local autozone, I just wasn't sure of the type of pump and what places would have it, I'm probably gonna get one online, I just don't know how to tell if it's good or not, what do you think about this?

https://www.amazon.com/ZENY-Single-Stage-Economy-Conditioner-Refrigerant/dp/B012CFTYX4

And I've been considering this chamber

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B06XPSKLC7/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?th=1&psc=1

I just purchased a $100 5G vac chamber off amazon along with a vac pump off amazon as well - all said and done $160.


Tried to get link for Vac chamber setup but doesn’t look like it’s sold anymore, see vac pump link below though -

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B012CFTYX4/ref=ppx_yo_mob_b_inactive_ship_o0_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I've been using this one: https://www.artmolds.com/vacuum-chamber.html with a vacuum pump I got off Amazon (they didn't have the bundle when I purchased, I got this one https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000XQ2S4M/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1 ) and it works fine. It just fits a 10 qt bucket if you take the handle off, so that's nice. That is about half the size you're talking about, though...

Buy a quality strut spring compressor, do NOT go cheap. I bought this one from OTC after renting the autozone version a few times. I like this one because it includes safety pins so the spring shouldn't be able to get out of the clamps. https://www.amazon.com/OTC-6494-Clamshell-Spring-Compressor/dp/B0002SRHU6

I dont think the can tapper would function properly with that ball valve. I think you need one like this

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0014JC9HI/ref=oh_details_o07_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

That adapter should work I think but I got this one and make sure you remove the internals that are not needed in our application and would reduce the flow of tane

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0056ODEP8/ref=oh_details_o02_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

And this is my can tapper

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0009XT7NY/ref=oh_details_o05_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

When you use a can tapper correctly the puncture point is at the bottom corner of the can so all of the butane can flow out as a liquid. Since the flow rate is increased the pressure inside the tube also increases and with my setup running two can tappers I increase the pressure even more.

Cool, thanks. One other thing. How would I connect the tubing from my vacuum pump to the glass beaker? Mine currently has some screw on inlet ports. I'm using a Robinair Pump

Wide-Mouth Jar Adapter

I have a brake-bleeder hand pump, works just fine.

here is my parts list lol i think this would be a better idea splitter. can-tap. going from the splitter to my glacier top. and camico adapter. and ball valves. Does this look adequate or which part do I need to be able to press the valve depressor?

Hey guys as a heads up. In the lab if we make silicone we always degas the mixture before pouring. To degas just put the silicone after mixing into a closed container and pull vacuum. I think even a cheap aspirator will pull enough vacuum to work. Pull until the bubbles stop than you're good to go.

https://www.amazon.com/Dynalon-312635-Faucet-Aspirator-Vacuum/dp/B004AHL77E

https://www.amazon.com/Nalgene-6140-0010-Aspirator-Polypropylene-Threading/dp/B003OBYNBO

Both look promising. Google degassing silicone for more it's a common technique in soft litho.

Edit: For a chamber just get a plastic dessicator. They aren't that expensive : https://www.amazon.com/United-Scientific-55204-Polypropylene-Polycarbonate/dp/B00ES3GPMM

Edit2: Cus degassing silicone just looks so pretty : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bbSvzD8g_S0

Edit3: Decent part combo for degassing

https://www.amazon.com/Stainless-Chamber-Urethanes-Silicones-Epoxies/dp/B00KSWL29I/

https://www.amazon.com/Single-Stage-Rotary-Economy-Vacuum-Refrigerant/dp/B012CFTYX4/ref=pd_bxgy_236_img_2?ie=UTF8&refRID=1N0WKYM5MHVXTF9FVB8K

Remember keep the vacuum so that it slowly degasses you do not want it to bubble over and all into your chamber.

Also plan on pairing the pvac chamber with http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001P7C7QM/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?qid=1395938434&sr=8-2&pi=SX200_QL40

Can I get anything better without upgrading to a vac oven?
Or is the pvac and this pump pretty high quality

Alright so everything I got-

New condensor

r134a refrigerant

compressor kit

vacuum

vacuum gauge set

Think that's basically everything! Thoughts?

http://www.amazon.com/Robinair-15310-VacuMaster-Single-Vacuum/dp/B005CO9GX6/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1451465073&sr=8-3&keywords=robinair+vacuum+pump

What is missing in terms of accessories in this deal? It's super affordable so seems worth it if I only need to buy hoses or whatever?

You have to vacuum the air out of the system before putting refrigerant in. You can do this yourself if you have a set of filler valves, a vacuum pump, and a very accurate digital scale. Most people don't have these lying around, so they'll just go to the shop for this part only.

Edit: You could use a kit like this. You would also need the scale to measure the correct amount of refrigerant going in.

careful with designs like this, horror stories of jars popping should lead you to get the correct equipment. This and this

Yes. Get a valve core remover and a 3/8" hose. I can pull a vacuum on a system to 250 microns in less than 15 minutes. Here was my original set up. It's a bit pricey to get started but you can get it piece by piece. You don't have to get it all at once.

Vacuum pump

Core remover

3/8" hose


Micron gauge



I recently upgraded my vacuum pump to a 7cfm and have two 1/2 " hoses with valve core removers. I can now pull a vacuum to 250 microns in less than 5 minutes on average. Saves a ton of time when heat waves hit and you are running around like crazy.

Several options available.... this is the best resource on the internet for the discussion:
https://tokecity.com/forums/showthread.php4?t=43587

You can get one at Harbor Freight for under $100 but I was able to get a deal on this one through my employer so I paid about $100 for it...
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000O1C47M/ref=oh_o00_s01_i00_details

This one works for me. I've used it for filtering gear and purging THC wax I made when I was growing. That reminds me I need to start growing again. -_-

VAC Oven http://www.acrossinternational.com/570F-VO-16050-16x14x14-19-Cu-Ft-Desktop-Digital-Vacuum-Oven-VO16050.htm im getting the smaller 1300$ one. only .9 cubic ft that one is a beast. 1.9 my dream. and vac pump http://www.amazon.com/Robinair-15500-VacuMaster-Vacuum-Pump/dp/B000O1C47M Done and Done. and of course some hose clamps and a bit of 3/8" tubing.

> stainless steel 316 Tee

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B003LSSLE0/ref=biss_dp_t_asn -----

>stainless steel 316 nipple 1/4 ----------
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004Y18C56/ref=pd_luc_rh_bxgy_01_02_t_lh?ie=UTF8&psc=1 ----

>ball vales
http://www.amazon.com/Stainless-Steel-Mini-Ball-Valve/dp/B006VE3BF0/ref=pd_sim_sbs_auto_2?ie=UTF8&refRID=0QATKNJ8JPYS71CX5ZPG

>can tap
http://www.amazon.com/Robinair-10102-Side-R134A-Respective/dp/B0009XT7NY/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1417119173&sr=8-2&keywords=can+tapper

What do you mean, they have plenty of options great for the whole family.

I suggest another lower end pump from robinair

at full vacuum thc and terps will boil off below room temperature

https://www.amazon.com/Robinair-15310-VacuMaster-Single-Vacuum/dp/B005CO9GX6/

Here's my setup:

Vacuum Chamber: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00I3Q8D2K
$117

Pump:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B012CFTYX4

$52


That pot will hold a lot of wood, but you also need a couple gallons of Catus Juice to fill it. Grab a cheap toaster oven from Salvation Army to cure.

Listen to /u/Glock19mos. I don't typically dye (I purchase mine dyed) and his pictures speak volumes about his capabilities with the process.

https://www.amazon.com/ZENY-Single-Stage-Economy-Conditioner-Refrigerant/dp/B012CFTYX4/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1541546220&sr=1-1-spons&keywords=vacuum+pump&psc=1

vacuum pumps for your needs are cheap, https://www.amazon.com/ZENY-Single-Stage-Economy-Conditioner-Refrigerant/dp/B012CFTYX4/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1541948266&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=vacuum+pump&psc=1

Its called a side can tap.

You just have to remove the schrader valve inside the 1/4 fitting.

http://www.amazon.com/Robinair-10102-Side-R134A-Respective/dp/B0009XT7NY/ref=sr_1_11?ie=UTF8&qid=1412257252&sr=8-11&keywords=refrigerant+can+tap

That's a vacuum pump

http://www.amazon.com/Robinair-15800-VacuMaster-Economy-Vacuum/dp/B001P7C7QM/ref=lp_15707041_1_2?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1427411598&sr=1-2

fuck that, my truck needs this

this is the chamber ive used for years: http://www.ebay.com/itm/ProVac-vacuum-chamber-3-gallon-size-/272086243605?hash=item3f599a9915:g:wfIAAOSwiLdWBPL6

this is the vac ive used for years http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0017R95DI?keywords=vacuum%20pump&qid=1451920342&ref_=sr_1_19&sr=8-19

this is the griddle ive used for years
http://www.amazon.com/Presto-07047-Touch-Electric-Griddle/dp/B0051XSIO6/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1451920465&sr=8-9&keywords=electric+griddle

Using this jar sealer and this vacuum pump, you can vacuum seal the big mason jars to store bulk items without having to buy an expensive food sealer.

what pump are you running with this one? http://www.amazon.com/FJC-KIT6-Vacuum-Pump-Gauge/dp/B001C6LG3Q/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1369336827&sr=8-3&keywords=vacuum+pump is this in the right ball park?

Ever use the clamshell type such as http://www.amazon.ca/OTC-6494-Clamshell-Spring-Compressor/dp/B0002SRHU6

Here is the vacuum pump I use with a pressure gauge and a big pickle jar. It works. https://www.amazon.com/ZENY-Single-Stage-Economy-Conditioner-Refrigerant/dp/B012CFTYX4/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1501206918&sr=8-4&keywords=vacuum+pump

dudee.. thats such a bad idea... the mason jar could implode and yeahh bad things will come of that.

get a vacuum oven:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/0-9-Cu-Ft-Lab-Digital-Vacuum-Drying-Oven-250-C-12x12x11-/200438959256?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2eab17cc98

pump for the oven:
http://www.amazon.com/Robinair-15500-VacuMaster-Vacuum-Pump/dp/B000O1C47M/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1375269744&sr=8-3&keywords=vacuum+pump

BEST butane extraction tool (cant wait to see someone tell me otherwise):
http://www.tamisiumextractors.com/index.php/custom-build/te8000-5-lbs

this is a proper setup besides the oven is made in china and is finicky sometimes

Thanks. I have Everclear in a spray bottle.

Here's my pump:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000O1C47M

I've never run the pump for more than a few hours. Another problem I have is that I have no easy way to check the pressure when it gets really low (I'm on a budget), so I have a battery-driven arduino with a BMP183 sensor inside the chamber. Eventually the battery dies so I have a limited amount of testing time. I can fix that with some deep sleep.

The one I've been using works great. This one is marketed towards the marijuana industry for making concentrates, but its no different than any other vacuum chamber. The only difference between mine that that one is that I bought that vac chamber alone, and a Robinair 5cfm Pump separately. That first link wasn't an option when I bought it.

Maybe I should buy those stop leak solutions . Or a detection kit that I seen on YouTube.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003JOB594/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=scottykilmerc-20&camp=1789&creative=9325&linkCode=as2&creativeASIN=B003JOB594&linkId=b25299640eda129853918177c12a11db