(Part 2) Reddit mentions: The best automotive fuel system parts

Is there some reason it cannot be patched? JB weld baby. They even make a special gas tank repair kit. How big is this hole? Is it rusted out or something? How about an after market plastic tank? It might be a little smaller but I would think that it would be a lot cheaper.

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JB Weld Gas Tank Kit is $12

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tank is only $150 on Amazon

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That will be $500 consultation fee for saving you more than $1,000 it is a great deal.

For anyone reading this later, I changed the throttle body with https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071L9KH14 and the problem seems to be fixed so far. The code changed to stored instead of pending so I cleared it.

An added benefit is that the pedal is a lot more responsive now. It used to not give you any gas until you pushed the pedal past a certain point and then it gave a bunch, now as soon as you start pressing the pedal it starts giving a little gas. very pleased.

It should be fine. To replace the fuel filler neck, get a replacement. Like so:

https://www.amazon.ca/SCITOO-F47Z9034P-Filler-1990-1997-1994-1997/dp/B07JLYT2KS?SubscriptionId=AKIAILSHYYTFIVPWUY6Q&tag=duc12-20&linkCode=xm2&camp=2025&creative=165953&creativeASIN=B07JLYT2KS

Then, you just undo the 3 screws in the fuel filler door to release the top of the filler neck, unplug the rear disconnect for the taillights, undo the 6 bed bolts, and remove the bed. Then replacing the filler neck is easy.

Keep in mind I'm just surmising. Also, I don't know your year and model.

https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=ford+ranger+filler+neck+replacement

I've done it before. It's a one-person job if you just lift one side of the bed, if you actually want to fully pull off the bed, it'll take 2 people.

Note that if you actually pull off the bed, that's an excellent time to rustproof the rear frame, replace the rear shocks, change your rear diff fluid, etc etc.

I think this may be the only eligible entrant. lol AWESOME

You should be able to buy 3/8" fuel line and a tubing bender from your local auto parts store. I would advise getting a roll of the Copper Nickel rather than steel. It's more expensive to buy but it's much easier to work with since it bends easier.

The fuel pump is part # M60107. It's $22 on rock auto https://www.rockauto.com/en/parts/carter,M60107,fuel+pump,6256

or summit https://www.summitracing.com/parts/crt-m60107

or amazon https://www.amazon.com/Carter-M60107-Mechanical-Fuel-Pump/dp/B000C02DQC



The electric route is pretty easy. https://imgur.com/a/4ykaKtZ (forgive the shoddy wiring) This is mounted by the right rear control arm.

Just having the right tire for the right situation is key. The stock tires they come with have to kind of work in every situation, jack of all trades master of none. Like, I live in an area where rocks and rocky river crossings or sand dunes aren't a thing. Its mostly just hardpack, and thick mud, so why not get a tire that was made specifically for that? With tires theres a trade off for every thing you do. Finding whats right for you makes an enormous difference over the stock tires. Biggest performance gain per dollar I'd say by far.

Also, ground clearance on the 450 theres only a couple ways you can get more of it and thats one of the easiest. You'd gain 2" over the stock 24"s going to a 28".


So then why a clutch kit? Well going to aftermarket tires effects the gear ratio and they're heavier so it robs a little low end power. So a clutch kit changes the springs and stuff to correct it (sort of) and make it grab the belt harder and get your acceleration back (if not more). The trade off being that the clutch engagement is slightly higher and more harsh. EIP or QSC are great.


To fix the factory cvt intake you'll have to fab something up on your own or get a snorkel kit (not recommended). Really just need something like this to keep air coming in but water out (mostly). Sometimes in rare cases the cvt box itself leaks from behind where it bolts up to the crank shaft. You have to pull the primary and secondary off to fix it and its a real mess.

https://www.amazon.com/National-Carburetors-TOY507-Toyota-Carburetor/dp/B000CH25N6

That's too bad the only review is one star. haha Hopefully most of them work great. I'm in need of one. How does yours seem? Run it yet?

if there the plastic one they break really easy when you try to remove
them its common place. most mechanics aren't going to stop and try and repair them they just stick the plug back on the injector and call it good.
You can buy replacement ones though
https://www.amazon.com/MOTOALL-Injector-Connector-Harness-Pigtail/dp/B07H76ZZSF/ref=sr_1_cc_9?s=aps&ie=UTF8&qid=1541681612&vehicle=1999-54-696------------1-0&sr=1-9-catcorr&ymm=1999%3Aford%3Aranger&keywords=fuel+injector+electrical+connector

What is the gray box over in the passenger side of the engine bay with the loom running in it? Nice budget build I like it! Injector idea that I'm running -2013-2014 Shelby Mustang GT500 55lb lb. Pound Fuel Delivery System Injector EV14 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HQJXMTO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_8JFIyb5RNVJDF
-And you'll need these http://injector-rehab.com/shop/EV14-11mm-Adaptor-Hat.html
-And these Flow Force Fuel Rail Spacer for Mazda Miata https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019L77BY0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_FOFIybSXNSZBE
-and something like this GooDeal 8pcs EV6 EV14 USCAR Fuel Injector Connector Pigtail Wire for Dodge LS2 LS3 GM Ford https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00YGAJZYC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_EPFIybTZY8Q7J

>Cabin filter: isn't 7,500 miles early? Typically that's not supposed to be changed until 15,000, yeah? Although you did mention the dealer was following the Severe schedule, so maybe that fits.

I certainly think 7,500 miles is early. My own schedule has generally been to change it annually. If it actually was dirty enough to change, it's from sitting on the lot at the dealership for months before my purchase and should have been something that was changed prior to me having the keys.

>Fuel induction service: do you have a GDI engine? That sounds like something you give a turbo, and again, not until at least 15,000.

That's the best part! I have the MPi 2.0 L.

>What is this "fuel kit" you speak of? A bottle of Techron or something?

It's the product(s) for the induction service, no clue what type, but it's the kit where you pour a bottle in the fuel tank, and use a spray hose for the can while running the engine. Something like this, probably. I can't for the life of me remember what's on the shelf that we used for our fuel system services when I was a tech. Still, maybe should cost $20-$30 for the 2/3 different products.

>Shop supplies: rags, a bottle of GoJo for the sink? Coffee? Dafuq is this? Some definite double-dipping goin' on here that needs an explanation.

Right? If they used a ton of rags, gloves, etc., that's on the staff not the customers.

>All the "baby's first service visits" I've ever had with any new car have only been oil changes unless something's wrong. A reputable dealer would've stopped right there. I hope you get a survey about this and you give them some 0s along with the explanation of how they screwed you. Oh, and better luck with the dealer you pick for your next service.

That's what's so bizarre to me. It's the very first time I've brought the car in for service, so I was under the assumption that the oil change and tire rotation was all that was being done, since that's what was included in the service agreement at the time I bought the car, and I had no reason to think otherwise. There was never a price discussed, quote given, or anything to indicate some sort of payment until I was there to pick the car up and they said I owed them ~$300 (reduced to $250 once they entered the maintenance plan).

The reason I chose to go to them for the service is because they're 5 minutes from my work, so I didn't have to waste half the day getting the service done. I could drop it off, they'd give me a ride to and from work, and I'd just have to grab the keys and a copy of the services done. No cost and no hassle. So much for that...

carb rebuild kit

I always buy the kit comes with all ya need gasket wise. Some local parts stores carry or can get the kit too. With old gaskets its always better to replace.
bad video I made on rebuilding carbs

Magic fluids that might stop the leak exist... but if I were the buyer I don't know that such a "fix" would satisfy me. Expect a spirited negotiation.

Are you talking about the CARB spouts? They are not attached, you can just discard them. I use non-CARB nozzles, as I described in my review on the product page I linked above. Here is the link to the non-CARB spout:

https://www.amazon.com/NEW-NATO-34-Jerry-34-Fuel-Can-Pour-Spout-Nozzle/dp/B009HJMY8Q/

As I also describe in the review, I use some additional plastic tubing to make the non-CARB spout more usable when filling a car.

Actually it looks like CampingMaxx is selling the Wavian cans WITHOUT the useless CARB spout:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MFBU1WB/

So you could save some money there by not getting the CARB nozzle in the first place, instead just buying the non-CARB one separately.

https://www.amazon.com/Spectra-Premium-SP8043M-Module-Assembly/dp/B00LPIRKUY

The install is really easy. Take out the back seats, opens the panel with four screws, take out the old one and put in the new one. Let the car idle for a few minutes to get comfortable with it

fuel pump testing kit, if you have a god tier local shop they may let you borrow a kit, alternatively get one for 30ish USD

I personally haven't done it before but this was the vid i watched on it

would help confirm if it's FP related or injector related

its been a few years but luckily i saved most of the build in a text file

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/spe-2429

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-g1414

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-g1423

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-m08750vs

http://www.amazon.com/1958-86-Chevy-Small-Valve-Covers/dp/B0032CXGX6

http://www.amazon.com/Holley-12-803BP-Fuel-Pressure-Regulator/dp/B000CMDV84

http://www.amazon.com/Edelbrock-2701-Performer-Intake-Manifold/dp/B00063046Q

http://www.amazon.com/Mr-Gasket-9810-Chrome-Breather/dp/B000BWCGA4

x3 http://www.amazon.com/Spectre-Performance-Chrome-Fuel-Fitting/dp/B00062ZDAE/ref=pd_sim_auto_10

http://www.amazon.com/Digital-Color-Analog-Ratio-Monitor/dp/B008P6DOIG

http://www.amazon.com/Thermoid-24088-Fuel-Line-Hose/dp/B000KKHNZU

http://www.amazon.com/Bando-6PK2170-Quality-Serpentine-Belt/dp/B000CB0KJS

http://www.amazon.com/Auto-Meter-20805-Gauge-Single/dp/B000CMH9XW

http://www.skipwhiteperformance.com/detail.aspx?Item=6500-R

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/bmm-70239/overview/

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-k1106/overview/

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/nal-10105117/overview/make/chevrolet

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/tfs-94000

the shorter serpentine belt was needed after i removed the smog pump and not shown is the dart iron eagle heads i got on craigslist for a good deal, not everything in the build is there and some links might be bad though

as far as HP/Torque its in the 270-330HP range judging from racing against other cars in that power range