Reddit mentions: The best automotive fuses & accessories

1.

Which wires specifically? In general, I was planning on going for heat-shrink solder terminal connectors and crimp connectors.

One of the reasons I posted this is because there are quite a few connectors and I am still not entirely 100% sure what I need. Obviously when screwing something in to a screw terminal block, the ring crimp connectors. But when joining wires, I would prefer to use the heat-shrink-solder type, but there are also butts and blades (heh).

I bought this set of terminals, figured I'd need them anyways: Assorted crimp terminals

I am probably going to buy this set of solder terminals: Fancy solder terminals

I am pretty good at soldering (though usually circuit boards, not automotive wires, hence not entirely knowing what to do.) I have easy access to a heat gun as well.

2.

Well, both - the breaker goes on the battery, and it sets the maximum amperage for the entire new fuse block and everything attached to it. The fuses go for each individual circuit. I want to use just one fuse for each circuit, instead of having several different circuits sitting on the same fuse, largely for my own desire for neatness and debug-ability. I could have one main fuse instead of the main breaker, but I figure that they will serve the same function and I may as well go for the re-usable option.

I was going to go for this breaker: Fat breaker

That said, I bought this fuse kit, which includes up to a 35A fuse, which will be more than enough. I also bought this fuse holder, in case I decide to use one main fuse instead of one main breaker. (I figured I'd need both of these anyways for some project, may as well get them even if I don't use them right now.)

Fuse Kit

In-line Fuse Holder

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In general, I think my system will basically look like this:

Battery 12V + Breaker = safe 12V

Save 12V + ignition 12V (do I need a fuse here?) + Relay = ignition-switched 12V

Ignition-hot 12V + Fuse Block + ATC/ATO Fuses = eight fused circuits

Fused circuits, obviously, feeding from above. I will probably add a 20A switch in line with high-power circuits, just in case, as an emergency switch.

Fused circuits will terminate at something like this Ground Bar.

 

What do you think of this proposed setup?

I do realize that it's kind of overkill for what I want.

But you can probably agree that overkill is better than your car burning down!

Lighting: I have a tailgate LED strip that does flowing turn signals and blinking brake lights. You've probably seen them around on Wish or Amazon (Not this one specifically, but very similar)

I've got a pair of LED runningboard lights to add that I'm going to wire to Turn Signals and Interior Lights, so when you unlock or open the doors (or turn on the domes) you'll get a courtesy light on the ground.

I've already installed the LED footwells, but havent finished hooking them up yet, just need to ground and plug into the fuse box.

I have the Trailhawk so the exterior lights are already pretty great, I'll probably upgrade the running lights to something brighter to match the headlights and foglights.

I do not have plans to do lightbars just yet... I think it would look too tryhard. What I might do instead is to get one with magnetic bases on either side, or goes on the roof rails so I can remove it if I'm not offroad...running it through the Cigarette Lighter doesn't bother me since it would be in/out temporary.

I'm going to install a CB and run a firestick antenna off the rear tailgate. I have one ready to go... but I'm looking at smaller ones that I can hide all but the handset. I don't have LOTS of use for one, but I'm an 80/90's kid and I HAVE been saved from driving into a Tornado by one before.

The hitch carrier is my first choice anyway, good looking out on the gas mileage.

The Cold Air Intake is partly about the sound (the Tigershark 2.4 sounds a little too...mousey for me at the moment), and for possible fuel mileage savings once I get used to the new sound and don't step on it just to hear it growl.

The Exhaust will probably be a custom job from my dads mechanic. I've known the guy my whole life and just found out he has a "state-of-the-art" pipe bending machine in his new shop and does custom exhausts. I'm looking for airflow (for MPG's) and a new muffler with again... a more meaty, growly sound (without being super annoying).

So much of a list... but I want it to mostly appear Stock unless I'm doing something with the accessories. Thus my wishy washyness on adding a guard to the front end. We definitely have a Whitetail issue where I live and it would be nice to possibly be fine after hitting one instead of having thousands in damage to repair.

Wow, thanks for the reply! You've confirmed a lot of the things I've read elsewhere.

One followup question. You mention a fuse, I assume you mean an inline fuse. What size fuse would be appropriate? Where would I install the fuse? Would I install it where the house wiring meets the chandelier? I don't think the chandelier I am replacing (which is also a 5 bulb one) has a fuse, but I can agree it's a safe, small investment.

Thanks again.

Edit: I'm going to guess a fuse holder like this (http://www.amazon.com/1st-Source-In-line-Fuse-Holder/dp/B0002KR8EE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1427549183&sr=8-1&keywords=inline+fuse+18+gauge) with a 3A fuse would probably be good.

Thanks! It was definitely a goal of mine to have all the wiring as tidy as possible. I suppose that's why the setup still doesn't work :). I could just toss some relays and inline fuses under the hood and be done with it, but I'd rather build a housing for that stuff. I'm hoping to find a water resistant plastic box that's big enough for at least 8 fuses and 7 relays. I'd use something like this perhaps for the positives, and a smaller bus for the negatives. I'd like to mount the whole contraption on top of the brake booster. I'm struggling with that right now, though, trying to source a good sized box and figuring out how to mount it.

Hey, thanks!

I'm going to go into detail on the equipment I bought with my next video (and I've got a really fascinating powerpoint presentation where I try to explain a little electrical theory without putting everyone to sleep). I'll answer your question here though:

I started with a kit that came with the wires you're asking about. The solar panels have those short (2 or 3 feet) wires that end with what's called an MC4 connector. The wires have the MC4 connector on one end, and a bare wire on the other. The MC4 is a weatherproof, snap-on connector.

For the second panel, I had to get the MC4-tipped cables separately. From browsing YouTube, it looks like you can save some money by buying the connectors alone and splicing them onto a wire. I didn't feel like messing with this.

I got all my stuff on Amazon. Here's the list:

• Here's a link to the starter kit I got. It comes with a pair of MC4 cables
  
• A second 100w solar panel, identical to the one that comes with the starter kit
  
• These are the extension cables. MC4 on one end. The other end has nothing - you just strip it and screw it into the terminal on the solar controller
  
• Had to get another set of z-brackets for the second panel too
  
• This is the in-line fuse holder. It takes any automotive fuse. The solar controller specifies a 15A fuse.
  
  The parts for my installation came out to a little over $400.
  
  Hope that helps! :)

I can answer the dashcam wiring for you. Best way that I have found is to use a fuse tap like this.

http://www.amazon.com/Qiorange--circuit-Adapter-Blade-Holder/dp/B015GYN38A/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1464329991&sr=8-2&keywords=fuse+tap

You will also need the appropriate fuse for that particular dashcam. And you will need a 12V to 5V converter for the dashcam. Like this.

http://www.amazon.com/Dash-Camera-Vehicle-Hard-Wire/dp/B00MH4ZVHO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1464330070&sr=8-1&keywords=dash+cam+wire

PS: Best part about this one is that you can install an inline fuse, which is much easier to find an appropriate rated fuse than it is with the automotive fuses.

Here’s my write up on JeepForum

This is the fuse block I used

I used 6-position covered terminal blocks similar to these, although I got them for $3/ea at a local store

This was my ground bus bar. it was cheaper when I bought it, and 10-position is nice but I probably could’ve gotten away with less

These are the waterproof sealed relays I would recommend

This is the circuit breaker I wish I used, but I had the 150A on hand. I’ll probably swap it out at some point

Edit: to add on, I used heatshrink on noninsulated female disconnects so that I could have everything properly color coordinated for easier work if I needed to make repairs/modifications in the future. I only used 1/4” Red/Yellow/Black HS on the board :)

EDIT 2: I used the wrong link for my writeup. It's fixed now!

It's really, really easy to add your own ambient lighting to the Focus (or any car really). Most LED strips are already 12v. They'd need an adapter from house wall power but in a car (the vast majority of them anyway) the 12V circuits are already there! If you're concerned about your own electrical knowledge they make kits too; they're pretty inexpensive and you could splice open that cigarette adapter line to wire it in directly or get something like this. Personally I'd buy my own strips, controllers, and hard wire it though (make sure you confirm controller works with your strip). Since you're in the footwell I'd also recommend weatherproof but it's not super necessary since it won't be directly exposed.

You could tap in to an accessory line/fuse to have them always on or get fancy and wire them in to the dash lighting for when the headlights are on so that they only come on at night. I just used these fuse taps the other day for a dash cam and radar detector install; make sure you have the right fuses for your install though. I had to pickup some lower amperage ones to properly protect my lower amperage gear.

Some LED strip lighting is easy to adhere or screw down depending on your preference and you can even get RGB and an IR/RF/bluetooth controller to customize.

Anyway, the whole thing should take nothing more than an hour or two and less than $100 in parts.

Here's what you do for an ideal dashcam installation:

• Secure the wires to the windshield near the top of the rearview mirror stalk using something like this.
  
  
• Use a plastic trim tool to push the wires into the gap between the headliner and the windshield.
  
  
• Run the wires along that gap to the driver's side A-pillar, and use the same tool to hide the wires behind the A-pillar trim panel. Run the wires from the top of the A-pillar down to the floor.
  
  
• Remove the door sills and route the rear camera wire underneath them to the back of the car. Find the best route from there to the rear camera.
  
  POWER CABLE OPTION A (quick and sloppy)
  
  
• Use zip ties to route the 12V power cable through the area behind the steering wheel and plug it into the power outlet on the center console.
  
  POWER CABLE OPTION B (looks like it came that way from the factory)
  
  
• Route the 12V power cable to the passenger compartment fuse box (below and to the left of the steering wheel).
  
  
• Cut the cigarette lighter adapter off the end of the power cable, and separate the two wires within. Identify which wire is the 12V+ power and which is the ground.
  
  
• Use a fuse tap (with a 3A fuse) to connect the 12V+ wire to the cigarette lighter socket fuse (Fuse 7 in the 2018 Impreza, I think).
  
  
• Secure the ground wire somewhere appropriate. Any bare metal surface that's connected to the body should work. Put a crimp-on ring terminal on it, and either sandwich that underneath an existing screw/bolt, or use a self-tapping screw to install it somewhere.

So... I have to ask... did you know a resistor and a relay are completely unrelated functionally? As in, resistor resists, adding a load to the circuit, (for various reasons needed) and a relay uses a signal from one circuit to complete a wholly separate, circuit.

Therefore, I don't know why you'd use a resistor in place of a relay. Like, at all. Perhaps I need enlightenment there... :)

As far as what relay, in a car, a standard 12v car 'box' relay will do. This one's cool, it comes with a socket it plugs in to. These are cheap and just lying around in any auto parts store, however, and you can use female spade terminals if you want and just bolt it in somewhere handy.

Don't forget either an inline blade fuse holder or an AGC one, and I'd fuse it for, oh, 5 amps. Shouldn't need much, just make it fast blow, and enough amps to ensure the lights won't blow it, but it'll blow in a short. LEDs shouldn't need a big fuse, really.

Hope that helps ya.

The way I setup my LEDs is I wired the lights directly to the battery with an inline 5A (I believe....might be way too high, could be around 2A, I don't remember, just calculate what your lights will draw) fuse on the ground.

Here is what I used (not the same brand etc etc, I got mine at a PepBoys for double that price because I was impatient), and it worked great!

EDIT: this will provide you with constant power, which is what I wanted because I can switch the lights on without having to turn the key. Great ambient lighting for relaxing in a lot at night.

You can use these to make hardwiring easy to install, safer (each device has their own fuse), and quick to uninstall. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BU59MFW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_n7e5ybQFXY5SR

Then I usually use this for the ground wires and connect it to a clean metal part near the fuse box. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00QSBAD8O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_u-e5ybFTTHNQG

I have used this for multiple different hardwire installs and they have all worked great and have never had an issue.

Lights don't "pull 12v", they need 12v to work and then use/pull X amount of amps. I think you're confused by the difference between volts, amps, and how fuses work. Voltage is like the measure of force moving the electricity (electrons) through the wire, and amps is the measure of how much electricity is moving through the wires.


The fuse numbers are the rating that the fuse blows at, not how much that circuit uses normally. Like if your radio only uses 8A peak, then it would run through a fuse that is rated at 10A, so if it ever spikes above 10A, then the fuse blows and opens the circuit to protect from damage.


Anyway, I would pick a fuse slot that powers an accessory, like the radio fuse or the 12V accessory port(/cigarette lighter. Whatever you call it). So if the fuse were to blow, the only thing that is affected is just the lights and the accessory port.


Easiest thing to do is get a fuse tap and use it to install your lights. That way you don't have to cut any wires on your car and everything is properly protected. Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/10-Pack-Add-circuit-Adapter/dp/B01DYQM6EO/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=fuse+tap&qid=1571284619&sr=8-3

It'll all work together well enough. Some will probably dog on you for buying a prefab box. But not everyone has the ability/skill/desire to build it themselves nor do they even care. When it comes to prefabs, I've found the QPower boxes to be pretty well built. Wish I knew the tuning frequency of that box, but hey, it'll be loud.

​

No, you don't need a whole second wiring kit for the LC2i. But you'll need some smaller, say 14 or 16 gauge, wire and a small inline fuse holder. 5A is more than sufficient. If you'll be doing more work on you/your friends car, just buy this kit now. Whole huge box for not much more money.

Looks like a 4 pin molex male + female would be your ideal coupler. Get one of these cords:

• http://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-12-inch-4-pin-Female-Extension/dp/B003L18WTQ
  
  and chop it in half.
  
  Use red for hot with an inline fuse holder like this one:
  
  
• http://www.amazon.com/Parts-Express-In-line-Fuse-Holder/dp/B0002KR8EE/
  
  and a 1 or 2A fuse depending on the load of the equipment at the end.
  
  Use yellow for neutral.
  
  Tie both black wires together and use them both for earth ground.
  
  Do a good job soldering and heatshrinking. I'd shrink the individual wires then put a bigger shrink over the whole thing and a not super tight ziptie on two places on each job.
  
  This should work fine for you.

these add a circuit work great and allow for a fuse on both the original circuit and the added one. As long as you aren’t drawing crazy amps where the original wires can’t handle it your fine. A cell phone booster should be fine

Thank you for the help! I think I'm starting to understand. Would it be ok to buy a relay like this? Is all the wiring there and I just need the relay or will I need some primary wire? I could find this stuff at a hardware store, right? My local motorcycle store said they only had relays for turn signals.

Friend, "super confused" and a 72W battery stack start to make me nervous about advising you. Here's a pic about how to connect a BMS. https://imgur.com/a/eeh7C4h

Short circuit fault currents can be really high. I highly advise you to fuse your battery as close to the + terminal of your holder as you can. I like this automotive type: https://www.amazon.com/Nilight-Harness-Automotive-Standard-Warranty/dp/B0002KR88A

The 7.5A fuse would be a good starting choice.

be safe.

It’s this one.

I’m thinking about picking one up soon. Seems like a great deal and will help simplify installation of several amps/dsp.

Hey dude!

1. Yep that's precisely what you need to do.
   
   
2. An inline ATC fuse holder is easiest. Something like this:
   
   https://www.amazon.com/Parts-Express-Water-Resistant-Fuse-Holder/dp/B0002KR88A
   
   Just make sure that's crimped/spliced somewhere between the positive lead of the battery and your fishfinder. Very Bad Things can happen should your fishfinder get dunked without it in place.

Get any ring connector ANL holder

There's a bunch, feel free to get whatever color/logo you prefer because they're all just 2 posts mounted to a plastic base with a plastic cover. Be sure to tape/zip tie the cover down so it doesn't get knocked loose.

Soldered ring connectors, on a post, touching the fuse, is one of the most secure and lowest resistance connections you can have. It's far better than the set-screw type.

I think this is the wrong place to post this question. You would more than likely have a way better chance in r/ElectricalEngineering or possibly a Toyota forum.

Hopefully I don't lead you the wrong way.

B+ = battery positive
ACC = accessory

B+ needs to be hooked up to a constant positive voltage
ACC needs to be hooked up to a positive voltage that turns on and off when you turn your car on.

I'm unfamiliar with the specifics of your car and camera, but you could tap into an existing circuit in your fuse box once you identify a circuit that is constantly on and one the comes on and off with your ignition using something called "add a fuse".

Here is an amazon listing of one:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B011I9QZX2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_JAUNBb8Q4VTPH

sure.. you can.. if you don't want a working camera..

You're going down the right path.. you'll need a hardwire kit like that and a fuse tap like this

The hardwire kit I used after research and recommendations from this subreddit

Just today I did my hardwire for my A119S off the front passenger fusebox with the 2 exact items I linked.. I found a fuse that was ignition on/off and spent about 5 minutes doing the work.. spent about 3 times as long routing the cable in a nice fashion around the a-pillar and window...

ADVMonster has some good controllers for auxiliary lights.

I made my auxiliary light circuit using instructions from post #2 here: http://www.klrforum.com/2008-klr650-wrenching-mod-questions/10863-power-source-aux-lights.html

My bike has a free 12v port that's only on when the key is in the on position which I used for the relay switch. I don't know what your bike has that's similar to it though.

I bought these:
DIGITEN 5x20mm GDC Fuse Holder Inline screw type with 16 AWG wire (Pack of 10)

Foxnovo Fast-blow Glass Fuses Quick Blow Car Glass Tube Fuses Assorted Kit Amp

HELLA 965400001 12V 30A SPST Relay with Bracket

I designed and 3D printed a waterproof holder for the relay and switch that I used. I can send them your way if you want.

Ok, so if I want to switch them all with one switch I should ideally have a switch that can handle 15a+?


 

So run the 5v and ground cables to all the strips in parallel from the power supply to get even illumination? I'm assuming the reason to do this has to do with voltage drop across 5m of LED's.

 

So something like this fuse box holder with a 15a fuse on the wires powering the LED would do it?

If you tap off the cigarette lighter and it is a 10A fuse or larger you will be fine as long as you aren't literally trying to use it as a cigarette lighter (the red glowing thing) as well. Buy some of the correct sized fuses for your car as spares off eBay for really cheap (or harbor freight) and keep them in your spare tire well. They can be a life saver. Never ever ever... ever... put in a larger fuse than what originally came in the fuse slot. The fuse is there to protect the wiring, not the devices.

Now, you can use a tap if you'd like and be fine if and only if you use the stock fuse and then a 5A fuse for the dash cam. Most dashcams only use 2A and they are getting more and more efficient so you should be fine. This method means you have to run it through the firewall which will suck. Plus you would likely have to cut a hole in the fuse box lid which could let water in which is bad. Do you have an auto-dimming mirror? You can splice power off of that too.

edit: By fuse tap I mean one of these: https://www.amazon.com/10-Pack-Add-circuit-Adapter/dp/B01DYQM6EO . Do not use the kind that just wedge in alongside the stock fuse. Those will stretch out the fuse prong slot.

Thanks, so I just need to buy two identical Mini fuse taps?

like this kit? https://www.amazon.ca/DIGITEN-Assorted-Inline-circuit-Adapter/dp/B01G8HUTCW/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1549426538&sr=8-5&keywords=mini+fuse+tap OR https://www.amazon.ca/Qiorange-circuit-Adapter-Blade-Holder/dp/B01J9GTL6O/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1549426538&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=mini+fuse+tap&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/Audio-Stereo-Distribution-Block-Ground/dp/B078SCQJNM/

I saw that thing on Amazon like a year ago. Interesting to see one in the wild

was looking for something similar to this Audison block as an all in one distro solution:

https://www.amazon.com/Audison-Connection-Mini-Distributor-Masseverteiler/dp/B005C8MLZW/

....

afaik, those are really the only two options for blocks of that style.

> I'm comfortable with soldering and electricity in general but not auto-wise.

Me too, I hadn't done anything like this, but it wasn't too hard. I crimped instead of soldering because I figured it wouldn't make a difference, and didn't want to move my soldering station, but either way works.

I used this tutorial to remove the pillar and run the wires up to the windshield.

I hid all the wires above the fuse box, essentially behind the little storage cubby on the left side of the steering column.

Finally, I used this type of add a fuse (there are a bunch of similar products but they're all about the same. Any auto parts store will carry the same thing). If you look in your owner's manual, you can find which fuses are switched (on when the car is running) or running straight off the battery (on all the time). So, depending on whether you want it to run when parked or not. If you want it to run while parked, I'd recommend getting a battery setup if you want to run it as a parking monitor.

In relation to your PRHT squeaks, I have no idea, since I have a soft top and haven't had issues with it. Maybe try browsing around on Miata.net.

Let me know if you have any more questions.

Remove the dash piece under the steering column and then the metal plate behind it to gain access to the main ignition harness that goes up to the steering wheel. Cut back the wire loom and look for a heavier guage solid pink or pink with black stripe wire. Make sure to test it with a dmm that it goes from 0 to 12v with the key turning on and off. You will need to get an inline fuse holder like this: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0002KR88A/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?qid=1452992553&sr=8-2&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=inline+fuse&dpPl=1&dpID=41xeCvxvLdL&ref=plSrch and a 10 amp fuse to go in the fuse holder. Solder one side of the inline fuse holder into the pink or pink/black wire and wire an extension wire to go from the other side of the fuse holder up to the radio. Wire the extension to the red ignition wire of the aftermarket deck harness and test that it turns on and off with the key. Once that's done bolt the metal plate back up then the under dash and put the rest back together.

Dead thread, but just for posterity's sake: I've started experimenting with these.

I think these can be utilized safely. I'm basing a build around a RapidLED aluminum enclosure. This allows me to earth ground anything I may bump in the tent. I've also bought inline fuse holders to limit the current on both legs (independently) of the AC (positioned as close to the main power cord as feasible.) Finally, a little kapton tape to cover the solder joints that can't be heat-shrinked (eg., right on the boards themselves, which are behind a the enclosure's plastic splash-shield to begin with.)

Just a little taste from today's initial testing, I think the 50 watt ICs may be a bit ambitious. I wired up three of them on my 20" enclosure, and even with the 92mm fan going (though in fairness, without thermal compound behind the boards) they were putting off a bit of smoke. Upon shutdown, none of the wires look melted, so I think the smoke must have been from the boards themselves. I'm not sure if this is some initial out-gassing, but I'm uncomfortable with it. I'm going to try again with some 20w & 30w ICs. The flicker that Big Clive talks about on his youtube channel wasn't very noticeable to my naked eye.

Along with the converter you linked, use an Add-a-circuit to tap into your fusebox (make sure you buy the ones with the right size for your truck). Use a multimeter to find which fuses are activated when your key is in the ignition.

Personally, I'm using a cigarette lighter socket and usb adapter (like this) instead to wire in my dashcam, but they both do the same thing as the converter you linked.

The last piece of the puzzle is having your Pi shutdown gracefully (via a switch), or even some sort of battery backup. This will prevent corruption of your microSD filesystem, which might occur when simply cutting power to the Pi. There are a bunch of different implementations online on how you can do this.

A 12 speaker system is going to need 3 4 channel amps at 4 ohms, and you will want a good dsp with an adequate number of line outs rather than relying on that many rca splitters. And that's without subwoofers. Then replacing those speakers is going to cost a pretty penny too. I would budget about ten times more if you want to use all those speakers

Dsp:

Alpine pxe-0850s- $700

https://www.crutchfield.com/p_500PXE0850/Alpine-PXE-0850S.html


Amp:

Pioneer gm a6704 or similar - $140x3, $420 total

https://www.crutchfield.com/p_130GMA6704/Pioneer-GM-A6704.html?tp=35782

Speakers:

Infinity reference 6.5 or similar - $75 a pair, 6 pairs- $450

https://www.crutchfield.com/g_473750/6-6-1-2-6-3-4-Speakers.html?tp=78072


Head unit:

Doesn't really matter what you buy with the dsp, as long as it has at least 4 pre outs

Jvc kd-x360bts - $70

https://www.crutchfield.com/p_105KDX360B/JVC-KD-X360BTS.html?tp=72310

Install:

You'd need some serious custom work to get 3 amps and a dsp installed, no one makes a wiring kit for that.

Large fuse block - $35

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B078SCQJNM/ref=sspa_mw_detail_5?ie=UTF8&psc=1

0ga Inline fuse holder - $10

http://www.knukonceptz.com/mobile-audio/inline-fuse-holders/sp/bassik-0-gauge-anl-in-line-fuse-holder-with-fuse/

25 feet 0 gauge power/ground wire -$25

http://www.knukonceptz.com/mobile-audio/power-wire/bassik-power-wire/sp/bassik-0-gauge-power-ground-wire-red/

100 feet 12 gauge speaker wire - $20

http://www.knukonceptz.com/home-theater/speaker-wire/bassik-speaker-wire/sp/bassik-12-gauge-speaker-wire-audio-cable/

20' 4 channel rca cable - $25

http://www.knukonceptz.com/mobile-audio/rca-cables/karma-v3-rca-cables/sp/karma-v3-twisted-4-channel-coaxial-rca-cable-20-feet/

6x 3' 2 channel rca cable - $1.79 a set, $12 total

http://www.knukonceptz.com/mobile-audio/rca-cables/bassik-rca-cables/sp/bassik-twisted-pair-2-channel-ofc-rca-cable-1-meter-3-feet/

Metra dash install kit - $11

Metra 99-3002 Dash Kit For GM Truck And Van 95-05 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00029X1LO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_ACOHDb99YRAGC

Metra radio wiring kit and antennae adapter- ~~$25

Various fuses, wire terminals, cable management, ferrules, tools etc - $50

Total- ~$1853. Budget $2000 for shipping, taxes, unseen extra costs

Subwoofer, Amp, 8 gauge cable kit, trim removal set, Fuse taps, and T-Taps

As for a guide, I just used other guides online and pieced them together. Really should have made a well-documented one when I did it, but I installed mine 6 months ago. Already forgot certain things. Just remember to look up the speaker wire colors for the back speakers before you tap into them and know that putting the power cord through your firewall from your battery is going to be a total bitch :)

Also just to clarify, the fuse taps are for the remote wire going into the amp. I tapped the sunroof fuse as it shuts on/off with the ignition (I don't have a sunroof, but it shouldn't matter if you do or not). Also also, that black cable going into my amp on the left side is a bass knob that came with the amp. That's wired all the way up into my glove box, so it can be adjusted easily if it becomes too much. The wires with kit and everything are long enough that you shouldn't need anything else, and everything tucks away in the door seem guides so nothing is showing at all.

I'm confused about why you've twisted the red and yellow together (rather than yellow to black), as he used a simple two-wire piezo in the video... Regardless, as you've got it, do you get a buzz with the engine off, headlights on, and black grounded (to the engine block or the AC fuse, as you've got it)?

Would you describe how you wired the buzzer to test it (what you connected each wire to)? I think you're super close to getting this working -- if you haven't got it already.

Edit: For you or others, I'd recommend implementing a fuse tap to safeguard the addition you're making to your electrical system. You could use the same amp rating of the fuse you're tapping.

On my car with how I have the Android mirror wired up it turns on with the key on ACC or when starting the car, and the Android mirror stays powered until I turn the key to OFF.

It took a lot of probing around to find the fuses I needed to tap off of, but the Android mirror came with a cheap but usable power probe tool that works even better than a multimeter for finding fuses with and without power.

I ended up using the two fuses:

• INT LIGHT = Interior Lights = B+
  
• WNDW RAP = Power Windows = ACC
  
  I also used "Add-a-circuit Fuse TAP Adapters" to tap off of the fuses so I did not have to cut or tap off of wires:
  
  https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01DYQM6EO

Add a fuse: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B011I9QZX2/

You will also need a 12v to 5v converter: https://www.amazon.com/SMAKN-Converter-Power-Supply-Module/dp/B00CXKBJI2/

12v positive side of the converter goes to the add-a-fuse. For the 12v negative, screw it to any bare metal under your dash. Pre-drill or use a self-tapping screw.

5v positive and negative go to dashcam's positive and negative. In the case of a USB cable (which is what I have), red and black are positive and negative, respectively.

Make sure you look on the packaging to see if your dash cam is 5v or 12v. You can skip the convert if it's 12v. If it's USB, it will be 5v though.

One last note: Add it to a fuse that is only active when your car is on. Test this with a multimeter (one side on the fuse, other side on bare metal)

Every random shutdown I've ever experienced has been traced to a power issue. My mobile rig had corrosion at the battery terminal which started out as random shutdowns during high power tx and progressed to shutdown during any power level tx. Fixed that by putting a fuse box tap inside the cab of the truck (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0742BZXC2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1) on an unused power source.

The other problem I had was my HF rig wouldn't put out max power on tx. Turned out a power management box I had in the power chain was dropping about 1.6 volts, resulting in the HF radio either shutting off or transmitting less power. Removed the offending box and all is well.

Moral of the story: Even if you think your power supply circuit is good, check it thoroughly!

I got a pack of [these] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015GYN38A/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_76MPwb4TCY4GW) so not to compromise existing circuits. Worked great for my A118C

I think you and I use very different devices then. I've seen plenty of glass fuses on circuit boards and thermal fuses that self-reset.

Anyways, to OP's question, I do not believe you should install a switch like that without a 3 amp or less fuse inline, even if it's one of those glass fuses in a "container" it'll make sure your switch doesn't get overloaded.

https://www.amazon.com/DIGITEN-5x20mm-Holder-Inline-screw/dp/B00VLBAF84/

> they give off gases that may be dangerous. Is that anything to worry about if I have a roof vent fan and another fan running inside while I sleep?

Nah. Even if you were to leave a dead battery charging in the sun, or a full battery depleting in the dark, you'd notice the gas (smells like rain) before it'd become an explosion hazard, and it's gases that'd wake you up and make you feel uncomfortable enough to start changing something before they could hurt you from breathing them. It's not like Carbon Monoxide, which will make you sleepier while killing you or anything. One has to kinda try pretty hard to enclose it (made even more difficult in a vehicle), with way more battery, to get an explosion or fast enough asphyxiation with that kind of stuff. Just ventilate all the time, even if passively, like you said.

> I'm confused as to how I hook up 12v outlets to my charge controller so I can actually charge things.

I know some controllers have load monitoring, but I find that feature pretty much useless, and it's the only reason I can see to hook up loads through the controller. Maybe put your fridge on it, in case your battery bank takes a dump, so you don't also lose a fridge full of food, but otherwise, I prefer to run the solar charger straight to the battery, and run all loads off of the battery. I like to use one of these as my positive bus bar and "main" distribution, right off the house bank. One fuse for alternator charge circuit, one for solar, one for inverter, and one for less-demanding loads through a guy like this.

Are you looking for the fuse box on the left hand side in that photo, or the breakers on the right?

The fuse box on the left was included with the power inverter I purchased. This would be a similar holder: https://www.amazon.com/InstallGear-Gauge-Fuse-Holder-Fuses/dp/B00D8E0SRA

I also did this, 20 dollars of equipment and less than 20 of your time. Copy pasting a comment below that links to the stuff:

>So I followed one guy's forum post, got a fuse tap and a USB converter and wired into the accessory fuse which for me is right next to where my left foot sits while driving. Ran the wires up underneath the steering column with some wire clips and good to go!

If that blade fuse is blown, I'd suggest replacing it with a newer fuse holder with some ring connectors crimped on. Way easier and cheaper than finding a new blade fuse.

Fuse Holder

Ring Connectors

Regular car batteries are made to have a lot of cranking power, and then stay on a trickle charge once the alternator gets going. Running the battery voltage down each night and charging it daily will kill the life of your battery (if it's not deep cycle).

Honestly, charging a phone (5w), running some small LED lighting (8w), and a couple 12VDC fans (6w) can all be done through your cigarette lighter port and won't be drawing more than 20watts. If you ran that all night, you would only be using 15amp/hrs or so of your battery; and if you get 8 hours of sunlight, you only need a 30watt solar panel to charge it back up. Whenever you are talking about solar though, you should plan on doubling your capacity to account for non-optimal performance, cloudy days, long winter nights, etc.

kieranmullen gives a pretty good rundown of what you would need to setup a separate 12v system but seems like overkill for what you are asking (and would run you about $300-400).

Personally, I would get a 100 watt panel, 7 amp charge controller, the cheapest 12v deep cycle marine battery from walmart, and maybe a 3-400w inverter (for a laptop charger or any other AC devices). Also, I'd put an inline fuse between my charge controller and load, and maybe another between the battery and charge controller.

use a Mini Fuse Tap to tap into one of those fuses, then connect the black wire to a ground, and the red wire to the wire coming off the fuse tap.

easy peezy

Floor lights: https://www.amazon.com/LEDGlow-Million-Color-Underdash-Interior/dp/B004N6YRDS/ref=pd_day0_263_3?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=BCYSQ22HXC5N63B4ZG2H

Add a fuse circuit: https://www.amazon.com/10-Pack-Add-circuit-Adapter/dp/B01DYQM6EO/ref=sr_1_5?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1511740880&sr=1-5&keywords=car+wire+taps

You will also need a 5 amp car fuse. Auto zone has them for about 1$.

Use the hood release bolt as a ground point for the lights.

If you run the wires correctly it looks 100% OEM I set the LED color to match the red trim on my car and it looks so good!

Zip ties help and a coat hanger to run the wires through tough spots.

That will work. It's so you don't pull your power from whatever accessory line you use. Otherwise you can pop fuses. You connect your accessory to the relay switch side. Run power and ground from good sources. Either at the fuse block or battery. They have easy to add fuses that will give you a fused power source. Not the best. But fine for what you're doing.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B013JU4K76/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1465361189&sr=8-1&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=20+amp+add+a+circuit&dpPl=1&dpID=41yEQHvf8XL&ref=plSrch

Run this to your relay. Then use the output of your relay for switched power


There are lots of other ways to do this. This is what I feel is the right way

The only other wiring is connecting both fog lights together and passing the fire wall. The wire has the two connectors for the lights, 2 grounds, and comes together to connect with the fog light line by the the reservoir.

I'd take some pictures, but I needed to put the bumper back on..
The eBay kit came with another set of wires but that was just an extension in case the fog light line was too far away. So the only other wiring is the harness in the pictures.
Would you like more detailed picture of that?

I know the green plug is for the button and I'm assuming black for ground.
The little black box things with the two red wires does have a 15 amp fuse in it.

It was just confusing me that the two red wires had connectors on them.

What is the proper way for finding wires with the correct Volts and Amps?


In order to avoid the splicing, could i use something like this?

I'll be using inline fuse holders like this one: http://www.amazon.com/Parts-Express-Water-resistant-Fuse-Holder/dp/B0002KR88A/ref=pd_sim_263_4?ie=UTF8&dpID=41xeCvxvLdL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=15HM852D3AFHRX18VJ0X

5x20mm AGC Fuse Holder Inline , something like this. Maybe not such heavy leads.

To wire in, one side would connect; Power in, and pin 2 of both SSR's.
The other side; Controller pins 1, 5, and 7.

I wouldn't recommend using those alligator clips, especially when you have marine style studs like that! You don't even have to mess around with lead terminals, just get some (I forget 1/4" to 3/8") ring terminals and bolt it on! But first, PLEASE purchase an inline fuse holder, having a raw connection to the battery like that is asking for trouble.

Buy a fuse tap and a cigarette lighter socket. Then check your interior fusebox for an ignition-switched source. Tap into that then use whatever cigarette-to-usb adapter you want.

Links to everything I used for my installation:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01G8HUTCW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HNMLQAG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B076F1WXRC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I did that in my work truck.

USB is 5 volts, not 12. You will need a step down transformer. I used an 'add a circuit' to get switched power from my fuse panel. Ran the wire to a 12v plug behind my glove box. Then shoved a USB car charger into the plug. I ran a USB extension cable from the plug up beside my instrument panel and plugged in a 3 port USB bank. Now I can have three things plugged in at a time. The USB charger lasts about a year and a half to two years before it dies, but I use it heavily for work.

Add a circuit: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DYQM6EO?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

12v plug: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074CT5CSN?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Relay link
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B007XLDREU/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?qid=1458086788&sr=8-4&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=automotive+relay&dpPl=1&dpID=51dpNb8gm5L&ref=plSrch

Buy these instead you get ten times the fuseable links and they're high quality, I've used 8 of mine already. [Then wire the positive to this female USB adapter] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00OXZ06I4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_seqXzb06KBW3B1292856) and ground the negative out to the body.

Pops are caused by slight differences in timing of +/- power supplies reaching their design voltages. Better amplifiers should have muting circuits/output relays to prevent this. The only time that changing input volumes will have an effect is when the pop originates from outside the amp (mixer, xover, EQs, etc.). If your Bryston pops with nothing connected in to it, have it checked out.

Also, make sure to add in-line fuses when testing, if not permanently. NS-10s can be pricey to repair.

I had a studio client replace many NS-10 drivers because some client complained "the fuses corrupt the sound." I added internal fuses and they charge the complainer for a repair every time a speaker stopped working. Funny how complainer never noticed the corrupt sound. I got paid every time I had to open speakers to replace fuses.

Edits: typos

I used fuse taps when I wired mine: https://www.amazon.com/10-Pack-Add-circuit-Adapter/dp/B01DYQM6EO (I didn't get these specific ones--my dashcam came with some already). Find a place in the fuse box to tap into switched or always-on power, plug in the original fuse, plug in the dashcam fuse, wire your power up to the other end, run it however and that's about it. No need to cut any wires or splice into anything with T-taps.


https://github.com/fochica/fochica-wiki/wiki/Fuse-tap-guide has lots more detail.

get a low profile fuse splitter.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01DYQM6EO/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I used these. No extra switch when i turn my key the lights come on. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DYQM6EO?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Model of? Dash Cam? I have this one (https://www.amazon.com/Rexing-Dashboard-Recorder-G-Sensor-Recording/dp/B00X528FNE), there's different versions/models from them. But I just wanted something basic and didn't want to spend a lot in case it turned out to be crap. Then you can get these https://www.amazon.com/10-Pack-Add-circuit-Adapter/dp/B01DYQM6EO and tap into a fuse if you don't have a free/open one.

OPs link is the dual.


Pro tip. If anyone grabs this, buy 2x fuse taps (your proper sizing) so you don't have to have ugly wiring to your cig light port

Typically no since there might be a 'spot' in the plastic molding of the fuse block, but if there are no metal contacts underneath, short of taking the whole fuse block out and modding it, you can't get there from here.

Most fuse blocks are setup to have a power 'bus' which connects the input side of the fuses to switched and/or constant battery power, but I've never seen a way to add a bus that's not there.

There are many 'add-a-tap' products that let you piggyback off another fused circuit. Ideally choose a less-critical circuit like your radio power circuit to hack into.

https://www.amazon.com/Qiorange-circuit-Adapter-Blade-Holder/dp/B015GYN38A?ref_=fsclp_pl_dp_2