Reddit mentions: The best automotive interior switches

Common upgrades:

• buy or make some push sticks
  
• zero clearance insert for safety and improve cut quality
  
• on/off paddle switch for safety, something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Woodstock-D4151-220-Volt-Paddle-Switch/dp/B005W17FRS
  
• thin kerf blade(s). i like switching between diablo 24T rip blade for ripping, and diablo 50T combo blade for everything else. the thin kerf helps cut through harder woods with our so-so 1hp motor.
  
• i don't know if you have a miter gauge, but if not they are useful. or better yet build a cross-cut sled
  
• your crank handles look to be in good shape, but if you need to replace you can get aluminum for about the same price as plastic: https://imgur.com/a/M33dCdU. available from ebay seller or1more.
  
• (typically later because $$$) a biesemeyer fence, like a delta t3. these are pricey but your best upgrade as the stock fences are pretty bad.
  
  
  EDIT: formatting

Agree on the LED kit. I also installed a short shift kit and shifter bushings from CorkSport. The latter is kind of overpriced, but the short shift kit is excellent and the installation instructions were crystal clear.

1. This only works if you have a 2016 or up with the control knob, but not navigation already. https://m.ebay.com/itm/2018-2014-Mazda-Navigation-SD-Card-0000-8F-Z09C-Mazda-3-Mazda-6-CX-5-CX-3-CX-9/272910144287?epid=547386152&hash=item3f8ab6531f:g:N4sAAOSwrRlZpV69
   
   
2. https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F182274109694
   
   and
   
   https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008Z0Y63Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_l0KaAb6YFCMSR
   
   
3. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JNHZ0QA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_vZKaAbQRFR057
   
   I also have 7mm spacers on the front and 20mm spacers with extended lugs on the rears, beefier rear sway bar, and a strut tower brace. Spacers and strut tower brace are honestly just for looks, I do notice a bit of a difference with the sways.

I used a chinese light labeled 12w, but really only uses 3w tops. The issue Im having is that I cant get it to output 12v from the motor. If youd like to hook up s light to your bike the first thing youll need is the correct cable to go from the motors headlight port. Its right under the dust cover and theres already a few guides on youtube that I followed.

bosch lights

bosch lights 2

I got a little more fancy and used chinese lights off amazon

headlight

tail lights

switch

Theres no wiring list included with any of these so you need to check things with a multimeter before you supply power. Wiring color varies so anything I told you about mine will be different on the one you order.

If I had to do it again Id skip the cheap crappy Chinese lights and get something German, Japanese, or American. The NIP lights are nice, but theres no turn signals or horn. The horn on my light is almost worthless on 6v, but at 12v its a nice feature. Same with brightness of lights, 12v is much better, but the NIP lights are designed for 6v and up. Im still working with my LBS to get the voltage boosted on the output, but right now Im riding it as is.

My rims are totally fucked too, I'm considering plastidipping them or something - they're all scratched up and the brake dust thing makes it hard to keep them pretty anyways (in case you didn't notice yet, these cars make a lot of brake dust).

For headlights, what I meant is that if yours isn't optioned with automatic headlights, you can switch out the headlight controller on the dashboard for like $10.

https://smile.amazon.com/Dromedary-Headlight-Switch-Repair-2000-2007/dp/B01MTKAF5O

This in auto mode will turn the headlights on and off with the ignition. They're not truly automatic based on light sensors or anything like the OEM option, but for me this is better than having to manually turn them on and off.

And I actually kept the stock head unit and added a kit to give me bluetooth and aux:

http://www.gtacarkits.com/product/audi-a4-s4-2006-2008-iphone-aux-kit/

It was easy to install, the bluetooth quality is subpar though, I just use the aux port. You might be able to find something better, and if you can afford it you'd probably be better off switching out the whole radio. I wanted aux right away after buying mine and didn't have the spare money to buy a new head unit

What I like to do sometimes is find the part on amazon with prime free returns. That way you have it if it on fact is the part, and just send it back if it doesn’t help. Maybe not the most ethical, but if it’s packed up the same and they take returns then you have nothing to loose. Here’s one for 19.99 with free returns.

Fits Chevy Express Window Switch fits GMC Savana 1996-2000 15728438 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07C1M8G8J/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_H7cTBbTKT5NE4

Yes and no. I didn't touch anything metal or have to take airbag out. I just undid three screws below and took off plastic housing. Below is what I purchased, I'm not sure if it will fit Malibu or not, as mine is the Cobalt. I think it was pretty easy, make sure you don't strip screw like I did. It was a pain to get out. 😂

ACDelco D6254E GM Original Equipment Turn Signal and Headlamp Dimmer Switch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004940ZSK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_SWqwCbS8T67Q2

Fun fact: the Ford GT (2005-2006) uses the same signal and wiper stalk modules that my 2000 Focus ZX3 did :)

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ford_GT#/media/File:Ford_GT_interior.jpg

https://www.amazon.com/Signal-Switch-Control-Replacement-YS4Z13341AA/dp/B007TYL0BI

https://www.amazon.com/00-07-Focus-Combination-Switch-Variable/dp/B07T2YFHLB

Haven't personally done it, but there's lots of kits online with the necessary hardware. It's really just tapping into a few wires of the pcm. If you're relatively mechanically inclined or have a friend who knows electronics you could easily install it yourself.

Here's one I found.
http://www.amazon.com/Complete-Cruise-Control-Mazda-250-9502/dp/B00815S0MG

If you had a shop do it for you a complete guess is they might charge you around 3-600 max for the install. This is without looking up any hours so take that with a large grain of salt.

Yeah, thanks for confirming. I've heard that before... I have a friend who has never shut his down (for many years). I guess they're made to run all the time. I planned on putting one of these on the right side of my lathe mounted to the lathe itself: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005W17FRS/ref=s9u_simh_gw_i1

In my '99 XJ it was the actual turn signal switch that failed. It's pretty easy to replace, just search for the tutorials.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JLJUZX8/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The awesome thing about XJ's is you can find every fix on the forums and parts are cheap.

If you can hold that switch down and it works perfectly fine, this switch is on rock auto for $31.79 or just the switch on amazon here at https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075M21FV3/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Vry5CbBE2Z51W

12 Volt DC Dimmer Switch for LED, Halogen, Incandescent - RV, Auto, Truck, Marine, and Strip Lighting (Slider, White) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079TGR3SG?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

I have these in my van and I have zero complaints. They work great and look really good, and they are pretty low profile.

How come no one has said anything about convex mirrors? They're cheap and super effective at eliminating ALL the blind spots.

Try it. Have a friend walk from abeam your passenger door to abeam your driver door, and you'll constantly see him in at least one, and maybe even two mirrors.

Levels of "cruise control":

1. Throttle paddle like this, reduces hand fatigue.
   
   
2. Throttle lock like this, when you flip the switch it holds the throttle at a set position. This does not keep the speed constant, only the throttle, so if you go up or down a hill your speed will change.
   
   
3. True cruise control, which uses an electronic feedback loop from the transmission to keep your speed constant. Some touring bikes like the Gold Wing have it standard, but you can add it to other bikes with a kit like this.

Yeah, there are good write-ups that one of the members did on both the mods over at TacomaWorld.

Cruise mod

Intermittent wiper mod

I purchased the wiper switch assm on Amazon for $160, it's just plug and play for both mods.

Mine was messed up when I purchased my unisaw. I'm pretty elecricaly savvy, and after looking into all the parts I needed, contactors, relays, flux capacitors, etc. I just canned it in favor of one of these

Simple, cheap and it works well. You just have to remember, if the power goes out, don't sit on the blade until the power comes back on--or just hit the off switch.

I'm not 100% sure for your car, but in all likelihood it uses a J1939 CAN bus for the wiring. What that means is that there isn't a direct line from the switch to your lights - it goes from the switch to the cabin ECU and then to the lights.

So in order to wire a switch to your fogs you would have to avoid all that and pretty much start from scratch. You could probably use the pigtails coming from the lights, tap into a 12v power source and run the wire directly to the switch inside the car. There are lots of places online to show you how to do that. It would basically be the same as wiring in aftermarket lights.

That being said, if it were my car I would try to get it fixed the right way. Looks like maybe p/n SW8551 would work.

I had a similar issue, my left blinker worked if I played with the turn signal (right side worked fine), switched it on slowly. I changed the turn signal lever/switch in the steering column and all is good.

Here is the one I bought.

https://www.amazon.com/Beck-Arnley-201-2026-Signal-Switch/dp/B005VNWPB8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1466368215&sr=8-1&keywords=Beck+Arnley+201-2026+Turn+Signal+Switch

Master window switch. I've had good luck buying stuff from Switch Doctors before.


Here is the part on their website:

http://www.switchdoctor.net/toyota-4runner-window-switch/toyota-4runner-master-power-window-switch-1998/?gclid=CjwKEAiAmJvBBRDKpP724LigwngSJAAYRJXBoCr3RpICCtFBh2mgfuSkdrorqwqt9jXOd01NeXtsdhoCLsDw_wcB

Although the picture is messed up on the listing, this appears to be the same part from them through Amazon for cheaper:

https://www.amazon.com/4Runner-Window-Control-Switch-Drivers/dp/B001MP169G

This is the one I used. Worked perfectly, took about 20 minutes to install.

Start off small. Do about 5 minutes of reddit viewing.. document the result. Move up to 10 minutes.. document. Do this for a week and you'll discover the maximum time you can be on reddit without being discovered. There's also Worddit which makes those long office meetings worth while.

These also help for anyone walking behind you: Blindspot mirrors

If you dont care about the safety feature of a mag switch then you can go with something like this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005W17FRS/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I have one on my Unisaw. Its still wired into the original mag starter but since its an on-off switch and not a momentary button (like it originally had), the safety feature is rendered useless. Didn't bother me personally

I got these for my m365


Led Motorcycle Turn Signals... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07HFXF2L3?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Very bright

Got this switch

GOOFIT Universal 7/8" Handlebar... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LAA9EQY?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

I have these on one side of my ac vents on the driver and passenger sides. They arent the greatest, but I can see enough if someone is next to me and I look over my shoulder to see if someone is in my corner panels. They hide when your vents are open.

Not sure they would help you comply with certain local laws as they aren't outside the body of the vehicle but I've yet to be pulled over for not having exterior mirrors.

Get one of those small round stick-on automotive blind spot mirrors like this one: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00029WT08
and put it on an upper corner of your monitor bezel or other area near where you sit so you can easily see behind you.

It looks like with a bit of cleaning and replacing the start stop button with a new start/stop paddle switch you will be all set.


The replacement switch is cheap too: $17 http://www.amazon.com/Woodstock-D4151-220-Volt-Paddle-Switch/dp/B005W17FRS

emergency stop

Woodstock D4151 110/220-Volt Paddle Switch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005W17FRS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_ogXYxb59S2XJM

That's the switch I have

Put up a mirror. Stick-on convex mirrors are cheap.

Ketofa Generic Auto Headlight... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DQF9B2B?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

http://www.amazon.com/CIPA-49102-HotSpots-Stick--Convex/dp/B00029WT08/

I'd hate to have a saw start spinning if I leaned over the table and hit the pedal accidentally, or at any point really.

I use a paddle switch like this:

https://www.amazon.com/Woodstock-D4151-220-Volt-Paddle-Switch/dp/B005W17FRS

https://www.amazon.com/Woodstock-D4160-110-Volt-Paddle-Switch/dp/B005W17HYY

With leads or sockets made for removable tools:

https://www.amazon.com/Router-Safety-Paddle-Switch-Removable/dp/B01B1KE4EK/

http://www.rockler.com/safety-power-tool-switch

http://www.woodpeck.com/elecswitch.html

https://www.amazon.com/ROUTER-TABLE-PADDLE-PEACHTREE-WOODWORKING/dp/B00153I3IC

I've driven all sorts of cars, SUVs, trucks, you name it. Never really had a problem with visibility. These were all LHD cars and I'm blind in my right eye, so I'm not sure if that makes a difference.

My blind spot is for the most part covered by my mirrors. I would imagine any car could be made workable if you picked up some of those little stick-on convex mirrors, or something similar.