(Part 3) Reddit mentions: The best bike locks

Oh hey fellow Kiwi! Yeah you shouldn't have any problems getting there and back on one charge assuming your Hills aren't too steep, you'll probably want to charge daily though!

> The main thing I was worried about is lighting, since it;ll be dark while I'm commuting they lights will be super helpful

The lights are super bright and obvious, you can always get a helmet/backpack light if you don't like high-vis but they're pretty bright by themselves.


> I do kinda worry about it being stolen, owning an expensive bike makes me worry, so I'm thinking about buying 2 U-locks. For when I need groceries and the like. I was wondering if you could recommend a few locks? I was looking into it and people say get 2 different kinds?

Not sure if Auckland and Wellington have similar crime rates, although bike wheels get stolen and stuff most people are still using cable locks and rarely get stolen (don't use them though). I've never seen someone go through the effort of cutting a U-lock but definitely get a good one. I would talk to a bike dealer and maybe see if you can get a frame lock fitted,
- I have one on my e-city (it comes with it fitted) and it immobilises the back wheel which is handy for quickly dipping in and out of cafes etc.

I have two Kryptonite U-locks but usually just carry around the Series 4 as it is super bulky and tough - it's the second toughest bike lock to the New York lock and incredibly tough to cut through, even with power tools. Sometimes I carry around the Series 2 for the front wheel and the Series 4 for the frame/back wheel but do keep in mind they are beefy (heavy!) locks. They will definitely protect your bike, I've had no issues parking mine anywhere.


> I like Smartmotion and one of the reasons I am looking at them is due to them being in NZ

They're designed for our conditions so you know they'll last - my dealer said that parts aren't too proprietary and easy to source, they're not too expensive either!

I would also highly recommend getting good pannier bags as they're very useful - Ortlieb bags seem to be the most reliable around but personally I like Linus bags, although slightly less practical because they look nicer - I have the Linus Sac.

Yeah, basically always lock your back wheel and frame with a U-lock to a sturdy, stationary object (There are plenty of bike parking racks. NEVER lock your bike to just itself or another bike). That's bare minimum. That's usually sufficient if you're going to just be in class for an hour or two.

In Davis, cable locks are just a visual deterrent. They're essentially useless, especially if you have a nice bike.

If you have quick-release, either swap them out for regular wheels or be very vigilant about locking both wheels with U-locks.

If you have a nice bike, never park it outside at night on campus. Also, try not to leave your bike outside if you're going to be away (going home for the weekend, winter break, etc.). There are people who go hunting for bikes and bike parts at night and especially during breaks when nobody is around.

It's also a good idea to take a short chain/cable and thread it through your frame and bike seat, just so that's secure too.

Contrary to popular belief, bigger is not better when it comes to U-locks. You want the thickest, fattest, smallest U-lock possible that fits your bike. For example, this mini U-lock would probably do better than this standard U-lock. The idea is, the longer the U-lock, the more space it gives thieves to use for leverage to pry open your lock. I'm not sure if you buy into that, but mechanically it makes sense, and the smaller ones also happen to be cheaper too. Some of my friends with really nice bikes (think $500+) have two small, fat U-locks and they do their job well.

I've also heard that you do want two different types of locks (U-lock and a thick cable, for instance), because that means thieves have to carry two different tools to break the two different locks. This is up to you, and I still think two U-locks are fine.

You can call any bike shop and they'll help! It's worth a try at least. Good luck!

I've created a short list of everything I have, linked items are the ones that I recommend.

Things for the road

Frame/ Mini pump

Saddle Bag

Patch Kit

Tire Boot (You can make your own for cheap, but these are still good)

Tire levers (See Multi-Tool, Levers Included)

Multi Tool (Super-Recommend)

Bike Lights

Spare Tubes (Optional for the road)

Bottles of choice

Sunglasses of choice

Gloves of choice (Important! For preventing impossible-to-heal palm scrapes)

Cycling compter

U Lock (no cable locks! they're garbage) <<I Have 3 of these, but then again, I live in Oakland.

Things for home

Floor pump

Tools (Pretty much covered by Multi-Tool, but there's things you may need like cassette tool, chain whip, etc)

Wet and Dry chain lube

Clothing (Optional, I only have the shoes and windbreaker)

Hi-Vis Jacket

Clipless shoes, I recommend SPD for easier walking

Jersey

Padded Shorts, or Bib shorts

Windbreaker

Leg Warmers

Most importantly, you need knowledge of cycling. Look up videos on youtube about safe riding on the road, traffic laws, hand signals, how to repair your bike on the road and at home, how to take a fall, and as much theory that you can)

EDIT: Do not let me trick you into thinking that a multi-tool is a replacement for the big-boy tools that are available on the market. Some of those tools are actually worth the investment. However, be that as it may, do your research first, because there's some overpriced crap out there ^^^Park ^^^Tools.

At 3 miles, you could walk that in 45 minutes, so 15-30 minutes to ride each way depending on the hill. Good that you are planning it now, instead of waiting till later. I think the first thing you need is a feasible route. Perhaps you already do, but it is more pleasant to ride without a car behind one. So perhaps you can ride much of it on roads that are less busy and likely have a lower speed limit. Google Maps has a bicycle option so you could see what that suggests. When you get your bike (or if you can borrow one), ride the route early on a weekend morning. Check that there is someplace to lock the bike at/near the school, because you need to securely lock it. The lock deters a thief by making it more difficult, not impossible to take. The more expensive the bike looks, the more formidable the lock should look. If the front wheel has a quick-release skewer, you should secure it so something like or this

I strongly recommend a helmet. They all meet the same standards, so I buy less expensive.

There are lights that help make you visible and those that help you see the road as examples, but not recommendations.

You've thought about rain for your backpack, but you may want to consider for you too, because being soaking wet at school is no fun, rain jacket, rain pants and fenders. I have a pair of these which might be a good choice if you can carry other shoes to wear in school. Even without rain, it will seem colder when you are going downhill in the morning, so I use running gloves (full finger) some winter mornings. You can bundle up toasty warm for the mornings because you don't have to pedal that much, and then carry some of your clothes instead of wearing when you ride home, so I recommend a rack and a couple of bungee cords to help with that.

Since it is a walk-able distance, you should probably leave the water bottle, multi-tool, patch kit and pump at home on school days just to keep it simple and keep from losing those things. It probably makes sense to keep it minimal and cheap while starting out like this. If you get a floor pump with a gauge, you can use it to check the pressure once or twice a week and then learn how to feel the tires to see if they are firm enough. I've not found a mini-pump with a gauge that is universally regarded as reliable, so the pump I take with me has no gauge.

For your commute to school you shouldn't need to fuss with padded biking shorts or spandex shirts or even fingerless gloves. I rode quite a bit when I was your age without any of those. If you are looking at longer rides, then you might want to try some of those (no underwear under the biking shorts) to reduce chafing against the seat and wind resistance from floppy clothing.

In addition to what others said, just do yourself a favor and buy a Camelbak.

Its nice to just have water with you all the time, and its easy to get dehydrated on a bike, especially what its hot. On a long tour, I like to have it just because I always know I have some water when I stop for the night and that kind of thing too. If I'm at a hotel, I fill it up and put it in the fridge overnight, and I'm good all the next day. I like this one because 1.5L is enough for a full day while still being light, and it comes in high-viz yellow.

For multi-day rides, I also recommend making yourself a little portable tool roll. Even if its just the common allens and the 2-3 most common wrenches for your bike, plus a pair of pliers and some zipties.

If you're on a GS, you probably have big luggage like me. I also bring a cable like this along with a padlock. This lets me lock my helmet and jacket to the bike if I'm going off to do something, and my luggage is already too full for that stuff. Mine is 4ft. Cable can just easily go through the chinbar of the helmet, long enough to just go through one of the arms of my jacket, and I can lock it to the bike with no fuss.

I've been using the Abus Bordo Combination folding lock:

www.amazon.com/Abus-Bordo-6100-Combo-Black/dp/B0046RZFK8/

It's convenient and I don't have to worry about the key. I got this lock when I lost the key to the U-lock I had been carrying! Lucky to have a good bike shop close to my destination!

I still use a hefty U-Lock for locking the bike in the car port, where it sits all the time. But to stop for lunch etc., the level of security of the folding lock should be good enough most places.

I've used this one for my bike and it works well for the Rev:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001DWNK1A/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It has a bit extra reach over some of the more standard length U locks allowing you to reach 'lock to' devices more easily.

This lock is a bit heavy, but with some velcro ties it straps around the stem and to the frame nicely. I saw the idea for this here:

https://www.reddit.com/r/boostedboards/comments/cqjugl/neat_way_to_carry_a_ulock_on_a_boosted_rev_scooter/?utm_source=share&utm_medium=web2x

hat tip to: u/kenzanboo for the \^ tip.

Here is an example of what a motorcycle u disc lock looks like.

https://www.amazon.com/Kryptonite-Premium-Packaging-Orange-Millimeter/dp/B0030M4DAI/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1481657678&sr=8-4&keywords=motorcycle+disc+lock

These are used to attach chains to the frame or disc rotor of motorcycles.

They don't have removable wafers, so they can't really be re-keyed (as far as I know, an I think I am using the right words.) so they have to be made with the same key from the factory.

Thanks for any help.

Which one was it?

Full+cable $32.00 free shipping

Mini+Cable $30.00 Free shipping

I have this lock, it's really great and definitely doesn't rust. Hope this helps: http://www.amazon.com/Xtreme-Bright-Illumilock-Protection-combination/dp/B00LCIOWKS

Has anyone been trying one of these? This looks like a feasible option if it is either big enough to fit around the folding mechanism? I think it is quite hefty but might be a good option. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000P6VMEC

I head Kryptonite locks are pretty good so I got this one which came with a mount.

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B06XCP8Y8S/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Via Velo Bike U Lock with Cable... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01KD9AQ92?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
Works really well for me and I trust it more than my Kryptonite U lock, and it’s one of the cheapest on amazon

Sucks about your bike. I hope you get you back!

However, you should definitely invest in a better lock.

https://www.amazon.com/OnGuard-8020-Mastiff-Integrated-Chain/dp/B002I8ONDC

After I had to buy a new bike due to theft, I got this https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0046RZFK8/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It survived two attempted thefts (fuck you, Kalamazoo MI)

Worth every dollar. Its protects not just the value of the bike, but the value of the transport the bike provides.

I use this Kryptonite lock for $67, it's very solid and works great. It's not too heavy and you can mount it on standard cup holder inlets.

Thanks for the recommendation, I've heard of that lock. This is what I have: http://www.amazon.com/Guard-Bulldog-Mini-Lock-5015/dp/B004S55H7O and I'm aware of this locking method:
http://www.sheldonbrown.com/lock-strategy.html

My saddle is fairly basic, so not too worried. Are shifters and derailleurs fairly secure?

I got a pretty solid u-lock at Marshalls for like $15...so if you have anything like that near you, you could check there.

$30

The theory of bike locking (per Sheldon Brown), is U-lock your frame and back wheel to the stationary object (which you have to make sure is stationary, some street sign posts have bolts that are easily removed; and wood like on your deck can be easily broken). This is why a larger/longer U-lock is often necessary. Then a cable can be run from the U-lock through the front wheel.

[Edit] Alternatively for more protection, a second U-lock can lock the front wheel to the frame at the down tube, then the cable can run from either lock through the stays on the saddle to prevent saddle theft.

Ultimately every lock can be broken, the goal is to deter and slow down potential thefts.

How big of a lock would you need?

I'm a fan of the Kryptonite New York series personally. They're super heavy duty...I can't imagine cutting through one...There's a 4x8 and a 4x10.25

I use the 4x8 to lock my frame and back wheel, and one of these bad boys to lock my front wheel to the frame.

It's overkill...I know...but I'm in New York.

Amazon is actually very reasonably priced on all of those by the way...if you're looking to order online.

>
>

https://www.amazon.com/Bell-Rampage-Heavy-Chain-Black/dp/B004HCSJKA/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8

wow looked that up and Amazon and that is the same lock down to the keys as the Harbor Freight model.

Having the correct size is important, and with bike size "numbers" being about as consistent as those on women's clothing, it's not easy. The bike should allow you to raise the saddle high enough that if you put your heel on the pedal, your leg will be fully extended. Optimal saddle height will probably be just a bit below that.

If you measure your cycling inseam (stand back to the wall, put a book between your legs and raise it as high as it can go without crushing important things, mark the height on the wall and then measure that distance to the floor), you can guesstimate the correct frame size. For a bike with a horizontal top tube, subtract 11" and that's about the seat tube length you want. For a sloping top tube MTB, subtract about 16" and you'll be in the ballpark.

Note that this is way over-simplified and generalized. Use these guidelines to narrow down Craigslist options, but don't buy without a test ride. Don't use these guidlines to buy online -- you need to be much more thorough for something you can't test ride.

As for the lock, the one you posted is pretty easily defeated with a large pry-bar. For U-locks, you really want to move up to Kryptonite's New York series to get a decent level of protection. You might also consider a heavy chain lock (https://www.amazon.com/OnGuard-8020-Mastiff-Integrated-Chain/dp/B002I8ONDC/ref=pd_sim_468_3?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=V40FDC9AFCF84A4305C9) as those are a little harder to defeat without power tools. If the thief has an angle grinder, all bets are off. The only thing that will save you is if your bike doesn't look like it's worth the effort.

Yep, pretty much.

https://www.amazon.com/Abus-Granit-Extreme-U-Lock-16mm/dp/B000OYHNU2

some good options to consider are these:

1: [Alarm Disc Lock] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074M61FWH/_encoding=UTF8?coliid=I2YKSPYCUB2K3&colid=R1FSNPORC4DP&psc=0) even though it says 'for motorcycles' it will work on a bike,

2: and this mega [heavy duty chain] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001KQ5ZRG/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1)

3: and this lock, which I don't have experience with, has the highest rating from a recent review of the top locks [Abus Granit Extreme 59 U-Lock, 10"/16mm] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000OYHNU2/_encoding=UTF8?coliid=I324LTWE3EAZZ4&colid=R1FSNPORC4DP&psc=1)

Can't go wrong with this. If you go this route I would recommend this as well.

Get a thicc U-lock (like this) and a thicc flex cable (like this)

When you lock your bike outside, lock the frame with the U-lock, and string the flex cable through both wheels and the seat if you can. Never had my bike stolen. If you have a nice bike, you need to get just as nice security for it.

Other tips:

• Lock your bike in high-traffic areas
  
• Make your locking configuration as complex as you can
  
• If you bike in the winter/rain, get chain grease, your chain WILL get rusty af and break if you don't.

Its pretty decent looking bike and it'll probably be locked up for a day at most so do you think it would worth upgrading to https://www.amazon.com/Kryptonite-York-Heavy-Duty-Bicycle/dp/B06XN5GV9K

Or this
https://www.amazon.com/Kryptonite-Noose-Bicycle-Chain-Evolution/dp/B001SMSUNI/

By the time you buy an ebike motor kit inc motor, controller, display, brake levers, sensors, throttle etc and then get yourself a battery and then add the cost of your time we are not sure that you will make any real saving against the bike we suggested.

The bike lock we use is the "Hiplock Gold" they make several different Hiplocks at various prices but the "Gold" is their strongest as it has 10mm chain links and a 12mm shackle.

The reason we use the Hiplok is because you "wear it" around you waist (it is adjustable) so it does not take up any space on the bike:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Hiplok-GOLD-Secure-Wearable-Bicycle/dp/B00PDHHLK2/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=hiplock+gold&qid=1567544033&s=gateway&sr=8-1

Cheapest we have seen it is around £65.00 on ebay a few weeks ago.

Thanks for the tips! Lots of informative stuff in there. The ball bearing superglued to the keyhole is brilliant. One quick question as far as the cable lock- I got this bike lock last winter when it was on clearance, would this do for the front?

http://www.amazon.com/Bell-Rampage-Bike-Chain-Black/dp/B004HCSJKA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1312691490&sr=8-1

I know it's heavy, but I'll have quite a bit of extra weight anyway with my college books and such.

I’ve heard horror stories of locks being tampered with so that when you lock your bike up they just unlock it and steal your bike without looking dodgy. Sure it might be a kg or two but I would never leave my lock behind.

The hip lock is quite cool, wear it around your waist so you don’t really notice the weight. I’ve not got one but have heard good things compared to putting a chain in a backpack.

As others have said keep it inside, these are not bad.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Kryptonite-krytolok-std-4-flex/dp/B06XCLTVPQ/ref=sr_1_fkmr2_1?keywords=dlock+kryptonite+new+york&qid=1565001542&s=gateway&sr=8-1-fkmr2

The idea of making it look cheaper too is a good one. Wrap tape around and cover it in kids stickers.

The Illumilock U-lock has been around for quite some time, and while I can't speak for its quality having never owned one, on paper, it's much more practical, and the lock is assuredly more secure. They also have a cable lock version, though the light is just for vision of your lock in the dark.

As /u/turbochargedmonkey has stated, the multi-function components, gadgets, and what-have-yous are never really as good as standalone versions of the items they are trying to combine.

Sure, there's probably a market for it (young kids, teenagers, and just people in general who don't know a whole lot about bikes and their components/accessories), but you're not going to find that market here.

The Kryptonite I use is a U-lock. Pretty heavy duty and heavy.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001DWNK1A/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The cable is to lock the wheels and seat, not the bike itself. The bike is locked by the U-Lock.

Trackr is just Bluetooth based. I work too far away from my bike. I was thinking more along the lines of a TK102-2 (original) with an iOT Sim. There is also a satellite based one: Spot Trace. Costs $100/year in service in addition to the device and sends a ping every 5 minutes.

Currently I have ordered.

1. Front light
   
2. Multi Tool
   
3. Phone Mount
   
4. Bike Lock
   
   When I go the the LBS to pick up my bike, i'll bet getting a CO2 pump as well.
   
   EDIT: I only plan on bringing my lock if i'm going on longer rides not @ my local park. If i'm not on my bike it will be in my home.
   

I have one of these

http://www.amazon.com/Kryptonite-Series-Premium-Packaging-Orange/dp/B0030M4DAI/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1398441959&sr=8-8&keywords=disc+lock+kryptonite

You can get just the lock or just the safety cable or get them separate without the bag for a bit less.

I recently bought a Kryptonite U lock when it was on sale. This version has an extra long 'U' and fits through the rear spokes and back of the frame (not the tire) and enough space to attach to a bike rack.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XN5GV9K/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

And I use a HipLok Lite chain as an extra to secure the front tire, if needed.

Then if you buy it at the higher price then you think its worth the money. You can also google and find the MSRP and wait for it to come down if you don't want to support higher prices.

It's only an issue if it's your only option for something important (i.e. Food or water) and not just something you want. Especially when it's not hard to find something that does the same thing for cheaper

OnGuard Bulldog LS U-Lock (Black, 4.53 x 11.50-Inch) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008OHBE8S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_7pNGyb77QJAA8

This has a 4 and a half in loop. I'm sure if you kept looking you'd find one

It's a kryptonite u lock. They make a bunch of different ones. this one has the attachment that holds it to your frame.

31" waist, fits my kryptonite evolution just fine. What sort of lock do you have?

I use this one: https://www.amazon.com/Kryptonite-Premium-Packaging-Orange-Millimeter/dp/B0030M4DAI/ref=sr_1_22?ie=UTF8&qid=1501886853&sr=8-22&keywords=u+lock+kryptonite

on my back brake and run the reminder cable over my seat to the opposite side rear turn signal. Works great. No one's tried to take it yet, but I do live in a big city (San Francisco) and have parked many times in sketchy areas.

Not sure about the other parts, but the first thing I usually check is Kryptonite locks. La Bicicletta has the standard 4x9 4 series for $89 and Amazon has the same for $70

I use one of the longer OnGuard U-locks. Hasn't been a problem, yet!

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008OHBE8S

I'm using a Kryptonite ulock with cable at work. Bike rack at work is a joke though, its not secured to the floor or wall. In the garage at home, auto door closer so it will never be open longer than 5 minutes unless the power is out.

Theft insurance and one of these

I have this secured to a fairly immovable object (my house). It's a deterrent to a casual thief, but a pro will get through it. Advantage is that iit's quick to use.

I have a U-lock also. I see the security of it and it's a dilemma for me too.

But because of the weight so far I've opted for using a cable extension to a cable lock similar to yours.

It aloud me to wrap around a tree at a campsite.

Just wondering what you thought.

Any thoughts on the Cocoweb ArmBar Bike U-Lock, currently Amazon’s choice for bike locks? 14 mm heated alloy steel shackle. Disc cylinder system using flat keys. Looks solid to me. But fairly cheap.

So this guy reviewed some locks and recommended this lock.

You can also register a bike with the city of austin using this webform.

If you are looking to replace this bike, and you are poor, a good way to do that would be to either visit austin yellow bike or to visit the annual university bike auction. You can contact them and ask them to add you to the mailing list. The auction is usually in August.

A cheap tool that fits in a pocket can cut a wire bike lock in seconds. Wire bike locks are invitations to thieves, unfortunately. Get a good U-lock. Good luck!

The one thing about Amazon is that they still put stuff from Amazon.com in Amazon.ca, but just adds the extra shipping and customs. If you change the URL to .ca, you may see the exact same product but it can be shipped from a Canadian warehouse, or you can find an alternative on Amazon.ca.

Kryptonite Evolution Series 4 Standard is big enough for your needs: https://www.amazon.com/Kryptonite-Evolution-Standard-Bicycle-FlexFrame/dp/B005YPK99I/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1501758780&sr=8-3&keywords=kryptonite+evolution

I use this:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01KD9AQ92/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

With this:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M2BOC7J/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1


Depending on how long I'm leaving it out, I'll use another cheap chain lock on the front tire in addition to the u-lock on the frame.

kryptonite u lock with cable

BIKEIN Bike Rearview Mirror... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BVNJS5R?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
And the lock
Kryptonite New-U KryptoLok Series... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XCLTVPQ?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

I'm so paranoid that I carry a disc brake and one of these: (http://www.amazon.com/Master-Lock-8295DPS-Quantum-Cable/dp/B000P6VMEC/ref=pd_sim_auto_3).

Yup...like they said, ulock the rear wheel and cable the front. You could also remove quick release and get a skewer that doesn't have a quick release and requires a tool to release the wheels. Just do a little searching...not hard. Here is one.

https://www.amazon.com/Kryptonite-New-U-KryptoLok-Standard-Bicycle/dp/B06XCLTVPQ/ref=sxin_3_ac_d_rm?ac_md=2-2-a3J5cHRvbml0ZSBiaWtlIGxvY2s%3D-ac_d_rm&keywords=bike+lock&pd_rd_i=B06XCLTVPQ&pd_rd_r=fde32e0d-2981-4bf5-8d43-8e1942441925&pd_rd_w=cCq23&pd_rd_wg=DfyP1&pf_rd_p=6d29ef56-fc35-411a-8a8e-7114f01518f7&pf_rd_r=9AHNDVE36M7AKT1358QS&psc=1&qid=1574785916

With enough time anyone can steal a bike regardless of the lock used. You want to make your bike harder to get compared to the bike next to yours.
There are many videos online discussing this topic but it comes down to quality U-lock or heavy-duty chain and proper lock technique.

Like you, I got an e-bike so I didn't get sweaty on my commute to work. I got 2 locks. A destination lock that I left on the bike rack at work. And a U-Lock I kept in my bag for when I ran errands. I extra-long U shape allowed some flexibility locking to various racks.

As for an e-bike I suggest getting one from a local store that has experience working on e-bikes. I don't know if Speedy Pete's repairs/maintenance but I would imagine they would. Many of the repair shops around are hesitant to work on my e-bike.

If you can, get a bike with a mid-drive motor. I had many problems with my hub-drive.

Sorry dude but that lock is thief bait. They are only to be used to securing a quick release wheel. They can give a bit off added protection from people just yanking the bike off the stand but I've seen similar be taken off (legitimately) in about 10 seconds.

For the last few years I've been using a kryptonite evo with a cable for short term locking and then I had a kryptonite New York m18 that I would leave at college or bring if I was leaving it in town odder night. It's pretty heavy for just bringing to the shop.

I know it's a lot of investment but it beats the hell out of buying a new bike on a regular basis.

Kryptonite Evolution Series4 Flex Frame U-Lock - Black/Orange, 10.2 X 22.9 X 1.4 cm
http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B005YPK99I/ref=cm_sw_r_an_am_ap_am_gb?ie=UTF8


Kryptonite New York M18 Lock
http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B000AOA3W6/ref=cm_sw_r_an_am_ap_am_gb?ie=UTF8

Davis native (lived outside city limits but whatever) and UCD graduate. Olive drive is one of the highest crime areas of Davis (according to the police crime statistics, down town and the frat area is FAR HIGHER). However this is Davis, so when I say high crime for Davis, that still means very low crime.

So the worst thing that happened to me on Olive Drive was being yelled at by a homeless man. I was walking on one of the bike trails (the one that connects campus to Murder Burger, and yes it is Murder Burger). The homeless man was camping in a drainage ditch and woke up because my friends and I were speaking loudly. He chased us for about a minute. It spooked us pretty bad but looking back I don't feel we were in any danger.

Downtown and any place on campus will have drunk students, which frankly are more dangerous than the Davis homeless most of the time.

There is a mobile home park south of olive drive, they used to generate a lot of crime that spilled into the olive drive area. The mobile park has been cleaned up however (rent prices jumped, funny how that works) so it isn't much of an issue now.

Here is a list of things I think you should know.

• Olive drive is near the Murder Burger and In-N-Out, if you are not careful you will gain weight
  
• The road connecting the I-80 off ramp to Olive drive is riddled with pot holes. Be very careful driving it.
  
• Most party nights in Davis tend to end near Murder Burger, In-N-Out, I-HOP, or one of the bars in downtown near the toad hole (the bike under pass near Olive, I'm not sure what you kids are calling it these days), so if you live on Olive Drive drunk friends will crash at your place. I would suggest keeping bottled water, a few extra blankets and pillows, and some accessible condoms in the main room of your apartment.
  
• For walking around late at night I would suggest one of these. They are very bright, the mag-light is also heavy duty enough to be used as a defensive weapon should you need it. However running is a far better option and the light should be plenty to get a head start.
  
  Edit Don't forget to lock your bike, they will take it if you don't**. Get a heavy duty U lock. Spend at least $50.** I would suggest something like this.