Reddit mentions: The best bike chain locks

Will get the locks out of the way first, if you want to keep a nice bike outside for pretty much any period of time - eg. to get groceries or w/e, you're going to want a decent U lock. You can get one of these for £20-25, but it's pretty much the only thing a thief can't just cut through in seconds with some large bolt cutters. Still a good idea to try to minimise the time your bike is left alone though, and especially if you're using it to commute it's best to find somewhere like a secure bike shed or indoor area to keep it. Eg;

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Guard-8005-Pitbull-Keyed-Shackle/dp/B008QTKVO2/280-8883770-2291344

http://www.fatbirds.co.uk/479896/products/kryptonite-kryptolok-series-2-std-u-lock-with-4-foot-kryptoflex-cable.aspx

And this guide explains the best way to use one, securing both wheels and the frame:

http://www.802bikeguy.com/2011/07/the-modified-sheldon-brown-bike-locking-strategy/

In terms of bikes, no, I wouldn't say you want a mountain bike. It'll be a lot heavier and less efficient than other types of bike, so not the best option for general town riding or exploring. Even for gravel trails, poor road surfaces or uneven terrain (all things you're likely to run into at some point on the national cycle network), the best thing for it is just wider tyres.

I'd say you have three options, really. You could get a hybrid, with a straight fork and fairly wide tyres, with flat bars. These sorts of bikes make solid commuters and such for regular, short distance rides but the flat bars can get a bit tiring on the wrists over longer durations and the single riding position isn't the fastest. They are quite cheap though, for example you could get something like this:

http://www.wiggle.com/verenti-division-3-2016/

http://www.halfords.com/cycling/bikes/hybrid-bikes/voodoo-marasa-hybrid-bike

With a 9 speed drivetrain and hydraulic disc brakes, which would be very nice in wet weather. Or you could get a normal road bike, something with Shimano Claris or Sora probably. Something like that would be fast on the road, comfortable even on multi-hour rides, often still have the option to fit racks and mudguards for utility and can still cope well with some dry dirt trails, especially if they can take 28c tyres or wider. Eg;

https://www.merlincycles.com/merlin-performance-pr7-road-bike-2016-85148.html

Or you could get a gravel/adventure bike, which is a bit of a mix of both. Drop bars and similar riding position to a road bike, but wide tyres and disc brakes which make it very capable off road too. Generally a bit more expensive for a similar spec, but you might find some entry level options around this sort of budget;

http://www.winstanleysbikes.co.uk/product/79787/Ridgeback_Advanced_70_2015_Bike

http://www.edinburghbicycle.com/products/revolution-cross-sport-disc-15

Both of those are only available in one size, you'd have to run through this guide to get an idea of if they might fit you:

http://www.wikihow.com/Size-a-Road-Bike

or there's;

http://www.halfords.com/cycling/bikes/road-bikes/voodoo-limba-cyclocross-road-bike

http://www.halfords.com/cycling/bikes/road-bikes/13-innate-alpha-cyclocross-bike-2015

If you aren't going to bike in the winter, then an old road bike is definitely the better - not to mention much cooler looking - option. Simply because they are designed specifically for riding on pavement.

If you want to try riding in the winter, then you need a bike that can accommodate bigger, knobby tires, which very few road bikes can do. So I would definitely go for a mountain bike in that case. A mountain bike is fine for riding on the road for simple commuting purposes, even better if you get some more pavement appropriate tires like I mentioned.

As far as locks go I use this to lock my frame and front wheel to the bike rack/railing/whatever and I use this to secure my back wheel to the seat tube of my frame. Good bike locks are expensive, but it's worth the investment. I know the locks I suggested are going to add up to be almost as expensive as your bike, so feel free to look at similar options that might be a little easier on your wallet. College campuses tend to be VERY high bike theft areas so that's something to consider. I'm super paranoid about locking my bike up while I'm in class and always bring my bikes into my apartment when I'm home for the night simply because a determined thief with an angle grinder can get through any bike lock in a matter of seconds or minutes. It's really all about deterrence, making your bike a less attractive target than the bikes parked next to it. Once it's dark out and there's nobody around, the deterrence factor goes way down no matter how many high grade locks you use.

And no problem man, I'm always happy to help anybody get on a bike and start riding. Happy, safe riding man. Feel free to keep asking question if you have any.

The best is probably this one, but it'll cost you a pound of flesh or thereabouts.

Best bang for the buck? A U-lock with a sturdy cable, and yes, the good ones will cost you. I have no experience with the Onguards but the good Abus or Kryptonite U-locks start at $50. Then, on the other hand, whatever lock you go for will be better than none at all, since most of its use is deterrent. If they really want your bike, they'll get it.

I had my GSXR600 stolen a few years ago, luckily I put GPS on it and I was able to recover it. I left it unlocked at my old apartment complex (used to chain it to a post with a huge Kryptonite MC chain/lock) for less than 6 hours, ONE TIME, and it was gone.

Besides using a disc brake lock, I also bought one of these:

D-yun Fake CAR Motor Alarm No Wiring Only Led Flash https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PBQN9OC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_uSRzDb46HMNFN

It’s just a flashing LED, and I velcro’d the battery box to the frame underneath a fairing, so I can still switch it on and off easily, and change out the batteries. Then, I put the LED kind of near the triple clamp so that you can see it blinking if you were to sit on the bike, or look near the gauges. I use Lithium batteries and the thing lasts for 4 months or so, sometimes I even forget to turn the LED off for weeks, and it still doesn’t die. I would say this is absolutely worth the $10 on amazon.

Most bike thefts are just crimes of opportunity, and if someone sees a little light blinking down near your gauges, the best you can hope for is that they move on to someone else’s bike.

I recommend a disk brake lock, but with Groms, the things are so light that it’s not really hard to just pick it up and put it in the back of a truck and drive off. So don’t rely solely on the disk lock. Locking it to a post with a serious chain is much better than just a disk brake lock, but then you have to bring a chain with you in your backpack. I used to use this one at my apartment complex, but there's no way you could carry it around in a backpack, the thing weighs like 20 pounds. (Also, you can see in the reviews plenty of people still cut through these. A battery-powered angle grinder will pretty much get you through most locks/chains. Which is why the goal is just to make your bike harder to steal than all the other bikes around it.)

The thing with bikes is, if someone wants it bad enough, they will take it. Whether that means using a cutoff wheel to cut your chain in 15 seconds, or picking it up and putting it in the bed of their truck, etc. The best thing you can do is make your bike harder to steal, so they are less inclined to steal it.

If you want full protection, I highly recommend buying a GPS unit, I have two SpotTrace units that I bought on Amazon, you pay monthly but there is a promo code rn for 50% off of an annual subscription, so I think I got a whole year of service for $100. Their app works pretty well too, and if you use Energizer Lithium batteries, they last for several months. The ONLY reason I was able to recover my GSXR was because it had GPS. If it weren’t for that, I’d have never seen it again. There are other GPS units on Amazon too, SpyTech (I think?) makes one that uses 4G data, so if you live somewhere with good cell coverage, that's a good choice too. I think SpotTrace uses satellite data, so it's good for Boats, hot air balloons, etc (things that travel far outside of cell coverage) but it has also always worked well for me on my cars and bikes.

EDIT: The only reason I don’t like disk brakes with alarms is that some of them are so sensitive that they start going off every time the wind blows. You don’t wanna be the guy in your neighborhood whose alarm is going off every 15 minutes while you’re not home. Also, I’ve seen people pretty much “silence” those alarms with chewing gum.

EDIT 2: Also, know that the handlebar lock (the one you engage with your key) is a joke. Most bikes handlebars can be unlocked by sitting on the seat, leaning back, and kicking the bars using your legs and leverage. Sure, it will break the lock mechanism, but the thief doesn't care.

/r/bicycling will be very happy to help you with this if you decide you want information. Here's the short version:

Locks aren't guarantees, they are deterrents. You just have to make your bike not worth stealing. Whenever possible, lock your bike in an area with plenty of pedestrian traffic, and where other bikes are locked.

Cable locks (example) are weak. They are for keeping somebody from walking away with your bike. If a thief has come to steal bikes, the thief will get this one, no sweat.

If you need something long like that, you can get a lock and chain (example) but be sure it's intended for use as a bike lock. Ordinary chain from a hardware store is too easily cut. This method is heavy and bulky, but it works.

My recommendation, to keep things affordable, simple, and convenient, is to buy a good U-lock (example). Kryptonite and On-Guard are popular, reliable brands, but there are others.

Most importantly, make sure you lock your frame to the bike rack. If you don't lock the frame, the battle is lost. Wheels are easily stolen, so lock these up as much as possible. If I'm being quick about it, I pass the U-Lock through the frame and rear wheel as well as the bike rack (the rear wheel is more valuable), but the front wheel can be detached to lock with the frame and rear wheel using the same lock.

You can look into locking skewers and such to protect your wheels and seat, but the priority is to use a good, strong lock to lock your frame and rear wheel to a highly visible bike rack. Also, keep a photo and detailed description of your bike WITH YOUR SERIAL NUMBER so that if anything happens, you can file a police report.

If you are moving with the bikes, I would opt for a trailer over a transport company, and keep them with you.

First things first, if you've never trailered a bike before (and it sounds like you haven't) do your research on properly securing the load, and make sure you have a tow vehicle and trailer that's up to the task. A light open trailer should be fine if it fits both bikes. easiest way to fit them on a small trailer is to tie them down side by side with one facing forward and the other rearward with the front wheels chocked. That gives you the most flexibility to route tie down straps to hold them in place.

Make sure that the trailer locks to the tow vehicle. You will want a good quality high security locking hitch, or heavy chains and locks (they don't have to be in place while in motion, but should be locked when stopped and left unattended)

Then chain the bikes down together to the trailer by running a chain through the frames. Use one with a sleeve so it doesn't scratch the bikes by shifting around. You can also use it to chain them up wherever you store them for extra security, so it's a good thing to have. Here's one I use: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B005UMCBL4

For a lock, I recommend this one. You cannot possibly beat it for the price: https://smile.amazon.com/FJM-Security-SPRS60-KA-Shrouded-Different/dp/B001LFPJXQ

Other than that just get used to maneuvering with the trailer and drive carefully. I personally prefer open trailers for this because you can keep an eye on your load, and can see around them. A closed trailer takes up more space as you're aware, but if you have the space you can also use it as a storage container at your destination. You could also just rent a trailer from uhaul and then not need to store it anywhere when you're done.

I think you would be remiss to give up a bike you truly enjoy because youre afraid of losing it. I would recommend keeping the U-lock and getting something like this in tandem to lock up your bike. Also change over your skewers and seat post to non-quick release, if applicable. There's strength in numbers: lock your bike up at a rack or where there are a lot of others parked and hopefully in an area with a lot of foot traffic.

Passable for roll away type stealing, but easy to pick up by several dudes and huck in a truck. Better to lock to something nonmoving with something like: http://www.amazon.com/Kryptonite-Bicycle-Evolution-Series-4-Foot/dp/B001JPQ0HC

The noose type gives you a longer reach to loop around things, and the lock will usually fit the front fork in some way. Your mileage may vary, so be sure to get something that fits your scoot.

Hmm, in that case I'd get the best lock you can (something like this since I am guess weight doesn't matter as much on an e-bike). I'd also check if your renters or homeowners insurance policy covers the bicycle; they often do even if it is not stolen from your home.

Also, if you are going to be somewhere a while, you can take the battery with you, since that is one of the more expensive components and they are usually removable.

Honestly, if I had an e-bike like that, I'd probably still ride it every where.

I use a folding lock. Essentially something like this. I bought mine directly from the bike store though. Pretty expensive but pretty convenient.

I shop for one, so my trips are pretty small. I toss all of my groceries into my a backpack, the same backpack I used in high school nonetheless!

Any lock can be broken given time, more secure locks take more time. There are various opinions and you can look at various tests people have done (Men's Journal/Gizmodo). However I tend to recommend a u-lock, the chains are very secure but heavy.

Example of a Chain

The Lock I Have

Every brand has various security levels, so you can research and see where your cost to security ratio is, but a cheap lock will be cheap and easier to get through.

Here is what I do in college (not waterproof).

Take a bike chain with a lock that is 4 feet long-ish.

Loop it through a single arm of your jacket, with one end going out the neck and one end going out the arm. Leave the jacket open (unzipped). Place over the tank with the neck facing towards the front and the inside against the tank.
Take the end of the chain coming out of the neck and loop it between the forks, under the bar.
Take the arm end and loop it through the underside of your helmet, taking it through the visor area. Set the helmet on top of the jacket, on top of the tank.
The two ends should be relatively close; one on top of the fork bar and one under. Lock together.
Presto! Cheap and easy way to store your gear safely.

Edit: I can take a picture of this if people are interested / this is confusing.

If I'm just running into the liquor store and the bike will be within line of sight I just use this. It loops over my moloko handlebars and stays there. Very light and convenient.

If my bike will be out of sight for even a minute I use this massive chain and padlock. It's heavy and unwieldy, but I deal with it. It won't stop someone with a grinder and time, but it's a rather intimidating piece of chain. Check out the YouTube reviews of Pewag security chain. You'll see what all the fuss is about.

I also installed Abus NutFix skewers and am very happy with them. Very easy to use once you get the hang of them. Will probably add one to my seat post soon.

I'm still very wary. My bike is insured, but I built it from the frame up and it's my baby. Don't want to lose it. I'm careful about where and when I leave it locked up.

Until yesterday I also had a bike motion sensing alarm from Amazon, but took it off because it didn't work properly. Looking to find another one.

Just barely fits...but it fits!! This is a beefy lock and I’m very happy with it. 8/10 security rating and a $3000 Anti-theft offer (whatever that means) Gold rated bike lock. The rubberized coating makes it a little tricky to get it to fit. I needed to push it down through the wheel while rotating it so it would slide down passed.

I will only be using this lock to lock it up in my office while I’m working. Don’t leave your Onewheel unattended in an area that isn’t somewhat secured. If you’re looking for a beefy lock that actually fits the Onewheel Pint

Thanks guys.

I too have have Kryptonite NY, Pinhead skewers and other anti-theft measures (Hexlox, Bordo 6500, Kryptonite Evolution chain). I've managed to get my lights themselves secure (see my post above) so was hoping I'd find something similar for the cameras.

I like the Cycliq in general, but it's the antithesis of the effort I've put into finding and securing lights I don't have to think twice about. Using the Cycliq as my lights also means I need to remember them each time, whereas I've addressed that already with my current lights+lock setup.

For now, I'll buy the cameras and play along with removing them each time (although 90%+ of my journeys are home<->work) and if I come across my ideal solution, I'll post it here. The best idea I've had since is an ugly encasement of plastic to deter bolt cutters.

My front-light is a Sinewave Cycles Beacon which I just got, and intended to leave on the whole time. Ye have reminded me how quick a snip it would be for anyone to steal, although it isn't overtly expensive ($350).

There was a murder on my commuting route this past Friday, so I'm more eager to get cameras now.

Just to be specific, these are the two models I'm talking about.

Chain This model specifically because it's the 18mm version with the Fahgettaboudit lock. The chain being 18mm means it's too large to cut with bolt cutters. The lock is also a Fahgettaboudit style lock which means it has two locking hasps, requiring a minimum of two cuts to remove the lock itself. It's a pain to get through either with a battery powered angle grinder, though that will work eventually. Angle grinder > any lock unfortunately.

U-Lock This is my every-day lock, and it's this one because it's the smaller of the two, which prevents people from jamming a jack in there. I don't know if you could even get it done without something like a 12 or 15 ton bottle jack, but I like the security. There's less flexibility in what you can lock to, but it's security is top shelf.

Also highly recomended

You can carry a super beefy security chain and a good lock in your trunk and lock it around your hitch frame.

https://www.amazon.com/Kryptonite-York-Noose-Bicycle-Chain/dp/B001JPQ0HC

Pretty much anything by Abus is really good.

I have this one and really like it: https://www.amazon.com/Abus-Tresor-Length-Diameter-Square/dp/B002VWJTRA/ref=as_li_ss_tl?keywords=abus+combination+lock+bike&qid=1565296962&s=gateway&sr=8-4&linkCode=sl1&tag=tt-20&linkId=44dff5472cf7a06355e9a77c60a21d3b&language=en_US

If you are actually going to ride a fair bit, consider one of the kryptonite chain locks (eg https://www.amazon.ca/Kryptonite-KryptoLok-Integrated-Bicycle-37-5-Inch/dp/B006QN0O1K/ref=sr_1_11?keywords=kryptonite+chain+lock&qid=1556923808&s=gateway&sr=8-11). The U-locks are really limiting in what you can get them around. With the chain lock you can get around a lot more stuff with just one lock. They aren't their highest rated locks, but would stand up to more than a cheap u-lock or other chain. For me they are a good compromise.

​

Aside from that, lock up next to an easier target. Unless you have a really nice bike (then leave it at home), the thieves are not all that discerning.

I'm in a large city on the west coast. Here are the bike lock measures I've landed on, in order of priority:

1. Kryptonite New York Chain Lock with Noose - This is for locking my frame to the bike rack. The chain requires approx. 3 minutes to get through with an angle grinder, which means your bike is harder to steal than almost any other bike you could park next to. 7lbs, but worth the peace of mind, IMHO. Besides, the extra weight just means better exercise.
   
2. Locking skewers like these to lock my wheels to my frame. Lots of options out there now though.
   
3. Seat post collar tightened with a hex bolt (instead of quick release)
   
4. A small chain lock to lock my saddle to my frame.
   
5. Because I have nice components, and my city is ridiculously bad with theft to the point that I've had people try to steal my brakes, I also have Pitlick Pit Stopers on the hex bolts securing my major components (saddle, brakes, derailleurs). This is excessive, but like I said, peace of mind.
   
   I'm also very careful about where I park my bike, what I lock my bike to.
   
   In theory, what lock you need depends on where you will be parking your bike and for how long. If your bike is going into an office building parking garage with active parking attendants nearby and restricted public access, a u-lock alone may suffice. But if your bike is going to be parked in a publicly-accessible space at a bike rack, then you need some serious protection.
   
   In any event, remember that bike theft will eventually strike you. Either don't ride what you can't afford replace, or get insurance to cover the risk of loss.

Depends on your needs and the area you will be locking it up in. I have a few of these that I will use on occasion but I dont really leave any of my bikes locked up anywhere for more than a few minutes, but they are decent locks and can be connected together to make a single loop that can secure a couple bikes. Pretty heavy to tote around but that is just how it goes with decent locks. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002VWJTRA/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I do 10km (one way) home-office-home daily on

https://belgocycle.be/

I was super paranoid about getting it stolen so I bought

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Kryptonite-New-York-Noose-1275/dp/B001SMSUNI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1511551335&sr=8-1&keywords=kryptonite+bike+locks+noose

and another U-lock. I think it's overkill since in both my home and office we have a secure area to store bicycles.

Company offered a company car but I did the math and realised that taking the cash instead would be worth about 5k euros net per year. I figured I don't need a car at the moment and extra cash is always nice.

I love my Foldylock Compact. Just as highly rated (solidsecure silver) as the mid-range Krypto U I used to use, but much more compact, quieter, and easy to use. I also use a cable to leash my front tire.

Sucks about your bike. I hope you get you back!

However, you should definitely invest in a better lock.

https://www.amazon.com/OnGuard-8020-Mastiff-Integrated-Chain/dp/B002I8ONDC

i just got this lock and I'm happy with it. Its a little pricey but fairly light, safe, and it doesn't take up much room on the bike.

I'm currently using this..it's nice and strong. Echoing what others said..used for quick in and out situations. Never for over night or hours.

Kryptonite New York Noose 1275 Bicycle Chain Bike Lock with Evolution Series-4 Disc Lock

The 2-foot version of the New York Noose chain has an excellent balance between weight and security. IMO, it's much more convenient to carry around and use compared to the regular New York chains: http://www.amazon.ca/Kryptonite-Bicycle-Evolution-2-Foot-4-Inch/dp/B001SMSUNI/ref=sr_1_1?s=sports&ie=UTF8&qid=1416468750&sr=1-1&keywords=new+york+noose

The noose style enables the user to lock up the bike with half the length of a normal chain: http://www.amazon.com/gp/customer-media/permalink/mo1WRS6N63KIEUU/B001SMSUNI/ref=cm_ciu_images_pl_link

Yeah man, just moved into a place with no garage or cover and was agonizing over how to keep my Monster from being an easy target. Found an article by a guy who used to steal bikes for a living. Said those disc locks are toys, the built in steering lock just takes a few firm kicks, and if nothing else two big dudes can just pick a bike up. He recommended the lock below, and make sure its through the FRAME (not swingarm, tire comes off quick) and anchored to something truly stuck in the ground. I've got mine on a big utility pole. Keep the outside of the cover dirty, but feel free to brush out/rinse the inside every once in awhile. If you can, find a place out of view of the main road but under lighting, or consider installing an outdoor solar powered/motion activated light (can be found for like $10-$15)

Kryptonite Chain and Lock:
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B001SMUB7G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_4ZSXAb9EF18YA

Motorcycle Cover: https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B018ODQK8U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_l3SXAbXD7J9QG

Also interesting to note, this once-thief said don't bother with GPS trackers. Apparently very few idiots steal and keep a bike. For the most part they'll find the tracker during teardown or damage the bike so badly you don't want it back anyway.

Cheers

why doesn't he store it in his apartment?

also investing in a good lock helps: http://www.amazon.com/Kryptonite-York-Fahgettaboutit-Chain-Bicycle/dp/B001SMUB7G/ref=sr_1_3?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1320125575&sr=1-3

This lock is pretty cool: http://www.amazon.com/Kryptonite-Bicycle-Evolution-2-Foot-4-Inch/dp/B001SMSUNI/ref=pd_sbs_sg7

>
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https://www.amazon.com/Bell-Rampage-Heavy-Chain-Black/dp/B004HCSJKA/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8

wow looked that up and Amazon and that is the same lock down to the keys as the Harbor Freight model.

Having the correct size is important, and with bike size "numbers" being about as consistent as those on women's clothing, it's not easy. The bike should allow you to raise the saddle high enough that if you put your heel on the pedal, your leg will be fully extended. Optimal saddle height will probably be just a bit below that.

If you measure your cycling inseam (stand back to the wall, put a book between your legs and raise it as high as it can go without crushing important things, mark the height on the wall and then measure that distance to the floor), you can guesstimate the correct frame size. For a bike with a horizontal top tube, subtract 11" and that's about the seat tube length you want. For a sloping top tube MTB, subtract about 16" and you'll be in the ballpark.

Note that this is way over-simplified and generalized. Use these guidelines to narrow down Craigslist options, but don't buy without a test ride. Don't use these guidlines to buy online -- you need to be much more thorough for something you can't test ride.

As for the lock, the one you posted is pretty easily defeated with a large pry-bar. For U-locks, you really want to move up to Kryptonite's New York series to get a decent level of protection. You might also consider a heavy chain lock (https://www.amazon.com/OnGuard-8020-Mastiff-Integrated-Chain/dp/B002I8ONDC/ref=pd_sim_468_3?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=V40FDC9AFCF84A4305C9) as those are a little harder to defeat without power tools. If the thief has an angle grinder, all bets are off. The only thing that will save you is if your bike doesn't look like it's worth the effort.

Its pretty decent looking bike and it'll probably be locked up for a day at most so do you think it would worth upgrading to https://www.amazon.com/Kryptonite-York-Heavy-Duty-Bicycle/dp/B06XN5GV9K

Or this
https://www.amazon.com/Kryptonite-Noose-Bicycle-Chain-Evolution/dp/B001SMSUNI/

A bike and the bus pass included with tuition is enough to get you anywhere in the city. As it's been pointed out, UBC is on a high hill so take that into consideration when leaving campus by bike. Note that all buses have bike racks on them, so if you just can't make it up the hill, you can hop on a bus to make it the rest of the way.

The only thing I would suggest beg you to do is to invest in a very, very good bike lock or two. UBC is polluted with bike thieves who will pluck a bike from a rack in broad daylight. A good U-Lock, properly attached, may deter most thieves - but pairing it with a heavy duty chain lock (like this) will be much more secure - especially if you are on campus late at night. It may seem like overkill, but overkill is better than leaving class to realize your only mode of transportation was stolen out from under you.

If you use a cable lock, your bike won't last a month.

By the time you buy an ebike motor kit inc motor, controller, display, brake levers, sensors, throttle etc and then get yourself a battery and then add the cost of your time we are not sure that you will make any real saving against the bike we suggested.

The bike lock we use is the "Hiplock Gold" they make several different Hiplocks at various prices but the "Gold" is their strongest as it has 10mm chain links and a 12mm shackle.

The reason we use the Hiplok is because you "wear it" around you waist (it is adjustable) so it does not take up any space on the bike:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Hiplok-GOLD-Secure-Wearable-Bicycle/dp/B00PDHHLK2/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=hiplock+gold&qid=1567544033&s=gateway&sr=8-1

Cheapest we have seen it is around £65.00 on ebay a few weeks ago.

Thanks for the tips! Lots of informative stuff in there. The ball bearing superglued to the keyhole is brilliant. One quick question as far as the cable lock- I got this bike lock last winter when it was on clearance, would this do for the front?

http://www.amazon.com/Bell-Rampage-Bike-Chain-Black/dp/B004HCSJKA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1312691490&sr=8-1

I know it's heavy, but I'll have quite a bit of extra weight anyway with my college books and such.

I've never biked to school here. But in the GTA I had my bike stolen. Now if I'm going to leave my bike anywhere I use one of these extra large chains: https://www.amazon.ca/Kryptonite-999492-60-Inch-Fahgettaboudit-Chain/dp/B001SMUB7G/ref=asc_df_B001SMUB7G/?tag=googlemobshop-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=292958473101&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=12433647985033178060&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9000671&hvtargid=pla-381360330145&psc=1

Anything smaller can be easily cut or removed. I don't know how bad bike theft is here. If it's anything like the GTA then I'd invest in a good lock if your bike is worth anything.

Why buy/build a super light bike where you then must carry around a 15.4Lb (7kg) chain?

Yep that is solid!
If you didnt want to carry a cable, locking skewers are always an option if you have quick release wheels.


These 2 are also solid options aswell and cheaper.
I use an Onguard pitbull.

If you already have a cable (or dont want to cary one)
OnGuard Brute

If you don't have a cable
Onguard Pitbull

I’ve heard horror stories of locks being tampered with so that when you lock your bike up they just unlock it and steal your bike without looking dodgy. Sure it might be a kg or two but I would never leave my lock behind.

The hip lock is quite cool, wear it around your waist so you don’t really notice the weight. I’ve not got one but have heard good things compared to putting a chain in a backpack.

Make sure you get yourself a pretty heavy duty chain and lock it up to something that can't be cut easily. Something like this. It may seem like overkill but if its parked outside without something like this its only a matter of time before it gets lifted.

My steering lock was previously broken by someone. I now put a heavy chain and lock through the rear wheel, like a Kryptonite lock. Two strong dudes could probably still pick it up and haul it away. The alarm idea sounds good. Another idea is to buy a cheap clapped out utility van, park it in your parking garage, and just keep the bike in there.

I really like the On Guard line of locks. Both the disc and chain locks are designed for motorcycles but they have everything for bicycles too so the line covers all aspects. I'd suggest this, tough nothing's good enough overnight, outside IMO. Disc locks are overcome by just picking the scooter up and putting it in a truck. Chains can be cut (though not easily).

OnGuard 8019L Mastiff 6' x 3/8" Quad Chain Lock https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0090C4XSY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_LredAbBNMB68T

Like this https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001SMUB7G/ref=pd_aw_sim_468_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=TDTNRHDDEQK93A61B8FB?

Does it scratch the scoot at all?

You'll pay in weight and cost, but this is probably about as secure as you'll get.

A heavy chain, probably. A regular Master Lock, no way. It's trivial to cut a padlock using boltcutters. We're talking 10 seconds or less.

Many riders I know swear by Kryptonite's New York series. Here's one that should pretty well for locking to a bike rack, parking meter, etc.

That's a good idea, I've got one of these with another one on the way.

This fits around my waist comfortably, I never leave home without it.

https://www.amazon.ca/Kryptonite-Evolution-Integrated-Bicycle-21-Inch/dp/B006QN0MIU

​

this one is better, can't cut it and the average thief is definitely not gonna be able to pick it

Get something like this: https://www.amazon.com//dp/B01N67GAGC/

Pick up something like this to chain the e-bike up with:

Kryptonite 999492 14mm x 60-Inch, 1415 New York Fahgettaboudit Chain and New York Disc Lock (Black)

https://www.amazon.ca/Kryptonite-999492-60-Inch-Fahgettaboudit-Chain/dp/B001SMUB7G/

Just regular gear, cleats likely only make your life worse as you have to walk quite a bit. A lock you can open quickly would be much better, I suggest a chain lock like this.

i have a friend who got her leader 725 stolen in a very similar way in sf... i always care this around this monster... http://www.amazon.com/Kryptonite-999546-Orange-Evolution-Series/dp/B001JPQ0HC/ref=sr_1_35?ie=UTF8&qid=1369500676&sr=8-35&keywords=kryptonite ...i never have any problems.

you you want to find your or just buy other peoples stolen parts ..

go to the laney flea market in oakland
http://www.yelp.com/biz/laney-college-flea-market-oakland

or the coliseum swap meet
http://www.yelp.com/biz/westwind-coliseum-swap-meet-oakland

I use the Kryptonite New York Noose 1275 to lock up my Juiced CrossCurrent S. The lock is quite heavy but manageable. And it is a bit on the short side but long enough to get the job done. I also got the Kryptonite Anti-Theft Protection Offer. It cost $25 for 5 years of bike theft insurance.

I also got the GPS option when I bought the bike. It’s not super accurate but is generally good enough so that I’ll get a warning if the bike moves out of the geofence and can give a rough idea on where the bike is located

While writing this it just dawned on me that I have not received the geofence alert in a very long time. I checked and found that the GPS has not updated its location in months!! I need to figure out what is going on. I see some posts out there that the Trackimo devices were based on 2G mobile equipment which the carriers have apparently turned off. And it seems Juiced may be helping folks with that. I’m very glad you posted or I could have found myself in a position where the bike was stolen and the GPS didn’t work. Assuming the 2G thing is correct, I’m a bit disappointed that Juiced did not notify me.

So this guy reviewed some locks and recommended this lock.

You can also register a bike with the city of austin using this webform.

If you are looking to replace this bike, and you are poor, a good way to do that would be to either visit austin yellow bike or to visit the annual university bike auction. You can contact them and ask them to add you to the mailing list. The auction is usually in August.

at the store, just put it in your shopping cart.

if it will be out of your sight for any length of time, the Kryptonite Fahgettaboudit has been recommended here.

if you only need to prevent a regular pick-up-and-walk-off theft, a regular cable bike lock should be enough -- but anyone with a little time or tools can get through those rather quickly.

Next time get this setup: https://www.amazon.com/Kryptonite-York-Fahgettaboudit-Bicycle-Chain/dp/B001SMUB7G/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1524778156&sr=8-2&keywords=kryptonite+chain

It's a lot harder to break into these.

I got this for myself to replace the Kryptonite series 2 I was using...

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B008QTKVO2/
'On-Guard 8005 Pitbull'

Apparently SoldSecure Gold rated...

I don't bring my scooter into big places (like supermarkets), but I do for small places (like restaurants). To lock my scooter, I use a Foldylock in the holes of the rear wheel, and I store the lock in my backpack.

I use this for my scooter and motorcycle. Bought it when I bought the scooter.

Kryptonite 999492 Black 14mm x 60" (1415) New York Fahgettaboudit Chain and New York Disc Lock https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001SMUB7G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_0qvqxb9WFS1H5

This 5 foot chain is long enough to wrap around a light post and go through your back tire.

This is my bike lock

http://www.amazon.com/Kryptonite-York-Fahgettaboutit-Chain-Bicycle/dp/B001SMUB7G/ref=pd_sbs_auto_3

Lock: FOLDYLOCK Compact Bike Lock Black | Extreme Bike Lock - Heavy Duty Bicycle Security Chain Lock Steel Bars| Carrying Case Included| Unfolds to 85cm / 3 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BFLTWT8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_dZHFTf6YRAmIc

Motion sensor: Wsdcam 113dB Wireless Anti-Theft Vibration Motorcycle Bicycle Alarm Waterproof Security Cycling Bike Alarm with Remote https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0734QN8KR/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_lqqrDcPF2ii2z

Here's Your Answer

Same here in VA:

https://www.amazon.com/Kryptonite-999492-Black-Fahgettaboudit-Chain/dp/B001SMUB7G/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1501213914&sr=8-4&keywords=Kryptonite+New+York

I use these on my scooters and my motorcycle.

Kryptonite 999492 Black 14mm x 60" (1415) New York Fahgettaboudit Chain and New York Disc Lock https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001SMUB7G/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_yqquub0B5VABY

But you also need to think about how much weight you are willing to carry...

We had these back in the '80s.

2 of these https://www.amazon.ca/Kryptonite-999492-60-Inch-Fahgettaboudit-Chain/dp/B001SMUB7G/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8.

Even has the bike insurance incase someone has a grinder and the time to go through 2 of these.

I had a similar problem with my onguard brute LS, however I had a rear rack for it.


If your area is high theft, I'd get a chain lock instead like the Kryptonite Series 4 integrated chainlock

https://www.amazon.ca/Kryptonite-Evolution-Integrated-Bicycle-21-Inch/dp/B006QN0MIU

That lock could be broken off in maybe 10 seconds. This is a much better option.

Check out this gallery of my lock setup.
I had forgotted how I did the front U-lock in my last post but you can see it is hooked to the steering arm. The chain is 5' long so that I can get to any staple even if I can't put the bike close to it. This is also handy when I ride with the family and we just lock all our bikes together if we can't find something solid. this is the chain I use.

The New York Noose is some serious lock!

1. https://www.amazon.com.mx/gp/product/B001SMSUNI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
   
   
2. https://www.amazon.com.mx/Kryptonite-KryptoLok-Candado-bicicleta-integrado/dp/B0081URKGI/ref=pd_sbs_468_5?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=RKT7TKAPGYR4JWHGTPJV
   
   
3. https://www.amazon.com.mx/Kryptonite-Keeper-Candado-cadena-bicicleta/dp/B00PUCSV7C/ref=pd_sbs_468_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=HZG7MW2GYCQC8C4YJ7HW
   
   NO COMPRES CABLES!, los cortan en menos de 1 segundo, si de plano no tienes dinero para un candado, compra una cadena comun y corriente y el mejor candado que encuentres en una ferretería.
   
   
   Me acabo de comprar esta bici en walmart y esta super bien, perfecta para ciudad:
   
   https://www.walmart.com.mx/deportes/Ciclismo/Bicicletas-de-Montana/Bicicleta-de-Montana-Ozark-Trail-Elite-R700C-Gris_00040000990097
   
   si compras esta bici más el candado #1 no llegas ni a los 5000 pesos.

I just got a CBR 500r and after reading the AMA I purchased this chain and this disc brake lock. Im still paranoid it will get stolen but the good thing is there are 3 other bikes near mine that are much more expensive and not locked. Im more worried about the caltrian parking lot.

Kryptonite New York Fahgettaboudit U-Loc

Bike's not going anywhere unless they got a serious angle grinder (which some do, but probably not worth the risk of ruining the grinder trying to get an older bike)

i use one of these. lock it through the frame and front wheel. with the chain you can lock onto prettymuch anything you want to. for worse areas i throw an evolution mini through the back wheel and seat tube and run a cable from that for my saddle.

I don't F around

Here in So Cal there are thieves following cyclists and ripping off bikes in broad daylight with power tools. I still keep a watchful eye if I'm grabbing something to eat, going into a store, etc. I also use it to keep the bike locked in the garage as that is a common place for opportunists to look.

A thick chain with a sealed lock that can't be broken by ice spray. Something like this: https://www.abus.com/uk/Mobile-Security/Bike-Safety-and-Security/Locks/Lock-Chain-Combination/Steel-O-Chain-880

In German, but here's a picture of a customer in this Amazon review. Someone wanted to steal his bike over night but has given up.
https://www.amazon.de/ABUS-Kettenschloss-880-Black-43307/dp/B001PLE0XQ/
https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/71fjbmE8HXL.jpg

Or a Kryptonite New York Lock 2 + combined with one of the flex cables they make.

You forgot expensive, at about three times the cost of a Kryptonite lock for it's cheapest model. Fuck that. Just get the Fahgettaboudit model.

http://www.amazon.com/Kryptonite-999492-Black-Fahgettaboudit-Chain/dp/B001SMUB7G/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1398514580&sr=8-9&keywords=Kryptonite

This very cut resistant chain: Kryptonite 999492 Black 14mm x 60" (1415) New York Fahgettaboudit Chain and New York Disc Lock https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001SMUB7G/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_tzUOub1QFAHSC

Paired with this movement alarm: XENA XX15-SS Stainless Steel Disc Alarm https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0067MFQ1S/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_2zUOub1Z4MFQD

And yea.

You can't get better than this.

It weighs a ton, and takes about 45 minutes to sawzall through.

The lock is a disc tumbler lock, so it can't be picked or screwdrivered. No non hydraulic bolt cutters can cut through it.

I've owned and ridden motorcycles and scooters in Baltimore City for over 15 years now, here's my quickie advice:

GLOVES! Always always always wear good motorcycle gloves no matter how hot it is outside... Imagine sprinting flat out as fast as you can possibly go and throwing yourself to the ground hands first... now picture that at 5-10 times the speed. Goodbye skin, ouch. It shocks me how often people neglect this. Wear good gloves!

With that out of the way, I also recommend getting a snell approved full face helmet as well. Its a lot more expensive and more of an inconvenience than wearing a half or open-face helmet and a lot of people don't bother if they're riding a moped or scooter, but the curb is no softer and cars and trucks are no slower just because you're on a smaller bike. Honestly an inexperienced rider on a smaller, less visible bike, with less power is more likely to get into an accident and should therefore have more protection.

Regarding security for the bike, get one of these and one of these. Borrow a hammer drill from the Tool Library
and mount the anchor in the parking pad behind your building with the bits and hardware that come with it. It can be done relatively quickly and as long as you don't put it somewhere terribly obnoxious its likely no one will even notice its there. Use the lock to chain the bike to the anchor every single time you're not riding it, take it with you wherever you ride, and use it to lock up wherever you go.

An unlocked moped or scooter will be stolen immediately and you'll never see it again. Trust me on that one, I've had 3 bikes stolen over the years and each time it was because I didn't lock it up when I was just making a quick stop somewhere or was just running into the house for a minute...

A good helmet, gloves, lock, and anchor are going to be expensive up front but in the end will be well worth it to keep yourself and your property safe.

As long as the engine size of the bike you get is 49cc or under you can ride it in MD anywhere that isn't a highway with just your normal driver's license and a moped permit sticker on the back.
(you can order the sticker on MVA's website, it'll come in a week).
Any bike 50cc and up is considered a motorcycle in the eyes of the state and requires a motorcycle license (or class M endorsement), insurance, tag, and registration just like a car.

Also, they do make an even heavier duty version: https://smile.amazon.com/Kryptonite-York-Fahgettaboudit-Bicycle-Chain/dp/B001SMUB7G/ref=sr_1_3?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1526569055&sr=1-3&keywords=kryptonite+fahgettaboudit

It's a bit pricier than you were originally talking, but it's some tough shit and can be bought in a 5 ft (1.52m) length.

I bought a New York Noose to chain up my scoot only to find out that my town frowns very strongly on chaining to any kind of city property including bike racks (wtf?). As with most scooters my bike is also light enough to be picked up by a couple guys and thrown in the back of a truck. What I do since I can't actually lock my scoot to anything is I try and tangle the scoot up as much as I can to make it look like a pain in the ass to undo. I put the noose through the rear wheel and then stretch the other end down and around the center stand locking the U-lock where it is welded to the frame. This way the wheel can't spin and the center stand can't be turned up without both cutting the chain and the U-lock with a torch (supposedly that is what is required to cut this lock). The chain is also tight enough to the bike that to try and cut it with a torch is going to destroy any part of the bike near your cut. All of this and a post lock would at the very least make it an annoying bike to take.