I know this was posted over a month ago, but if you haven't moved forward here are my thoughts and experience. I will agree with most of what @jgpatty says, but I have had less problems

Install/DIY - As long as you have basic diy skills these are easy to install and the instructions are very straight forward. You will need a good drill and bits, square/measuring tools, and marking devices that is about it.

My Experience - I have installed 3 of the Mighty Mule Gate openers over the years, and was very happy with them. I find them to be very reliable. I have installed two of the m500 models at my own house. 6 years ago I installed the first M500 after after about 5 years something broke on it, BUT that is completely my fault. I neglected my gate (not the opener) it was having a bunch of problems. The hinges I installed were not very good and the post I put in was just a 4x4 which caused the gate to sag and drag on the ground. I tried adding a wheel to the gate, but in the cold weather (north east ohio) the wheel would freeze up and drag on the ground as well. Anyways after about 3 or 4 years of that the opener gave out. I am honestly surprised it lasted that long the gate was putting a ton of strain on it.

So Anyways this summer I removed my old wooden gate/post threw it all out and built a custom 5 x 5 metal post and metal gate with some good hinges and decided just to install a new opener instead of fixing the old one. Every works great

Solar Powered - The other one I installed at my parents farm. Due to the location and distance from 110v power I decided to go solar. We are in North East Ohio which has some of the most cloud coverage in the USA, and the worst rate for solar panels. I put in just one solar panel like they suggested, but in the winter they had problems with low battery, so I added a 2nd solar panel which is easy. You just splice/wire it up to the other panel and you have more charging capacity

Competition - The 2nd time around at my house I considered going with a Liftmaster/Chamberlain option because I have 3 of their garage door openers at my commercial building and they are great. For like $40 you can add an internet gateway that controls up to 16 openers, switches, lights, etc and they connect to home automation hubs as well. They mobile app/website tells you if they are opened or closed and for how long, you can get notifications, etc. BUT in the end the price was more than doubled so I passed on that. I looked into and read a ton of reviews on Aleko and Ghost controls who seem to be knocking off Mighty Mule, and the prices are a little better. But the reviews were not as consistent as mighty mule and since I had good experiences I decided to stay with them. I will say Aleko accessories are good and I have used a bunch of those

Tips & Tricks

Hinges - BUY A GOOD GATE HINGE. Your opener will last so much longer. And a gate hinge is only worth while if it has a grease fitting on the bottom. There are some great weldable ones on amazon for like $15 or $20 for a set. If you don't want to weld them on then you can get these aleko ones for like $11 a piece (they don't come as a set). I welded those ones on, but you can bolt them on as well

Solar Panels - If your gonna go solar install two panels unless you rarely use it or live in the south in a very sunny area. Also it is cheaper to buy the standard opener and just get the solar panels separate and hook them up. There is no difference between the standard opener and the solar opener it is just a bundle. For panels it is cheaper to go with Alekos panels. On Amazon you can get Aleko panels that are twice as powerful for half the cost. Might mule 10w is $99, and Aleko 20w is $45

Extra Batteries For Solar - If your not running solar the standard backup battery might mules sells for $25 is perfect, but It isn't necessarily cheaper but you do get a lot more bang for your buck if you go to home depot and get a deep cycle marine battery as an extended battery. You can then put the next to the post in the ground using one of these on amazon for like $10 - Waterproof Battery Box . That is what I did for my solar install. You wire the Solar panels to the large battery and then hook the large battery up to the main mighty mule battery or the extra battery hookups if your model has that. Make sure to use fuses :)

Mighty Mule Gate Lock - For $120 I was not impressed from a security perspective. If your gate is solid (wind can't penetrate it) then this serves a nice purpose of taking stress off the hinges, gate opener, post, brackets etc. Because a solid gate is pretty much a sail, But from a security stand point it is just too easy to bypass. The latch is just spring loaded when locked. You can stick a screw driver in there and release it. Also the retaining pin the bolt that the latch attaches to can be removed without tools and then the lock is attached to nothing. If you really want security use an aftermarket outdoor magnetic lock. They are about $60 to $80 on amazon and can be used on a mighty mule using the gate lock wiring. There is a little more DIY here. You have to put a separate circuit board in the enclosure for the magnetic lock

Keypad & Post - Don't bother hard wiring the gate keypad. It makes it a less secure system and then you have a run a wire. Using it wirelessly the batteries last more than a year with regular use. And when I say it make sit less secure all someone has to do it rip the wire out of the back of the keypad and push the two wires together to open the gate. Buy the Aleko keypad Post on Amazon. It is $35 vs the mighty mule $85

Inside or Fixed Location Opener Button - You can hardwire a garage opener style button that allows you to open the gate from inside the house, garage etc. It is cheaper and so much faster to just take a regular mighty mule clicker ($20), remove the clip from the back, and run a screw through the keychain hole to mount it to the wall of your house. it looks nice and mine worked for 5 years on the same battery with daily use.

> but at that rate I'm better off charging my batteries with my diesel's alternator

Yep. I frequently ask people on this sub why they think solar is so important when they're driving around in something that generates electricity already. Solar is expensive. It doesn't work in Seattle except for three weeks in August. Unless you're in the desert southwest, you need to have sufficient battery capacity for multiple days without sun which means you need an even bigger solar panel array to recharge that battery pack on the 2 sunny days during a two week period of overcast and showers.

Unless the van is parked somewhere for days and days without moving, just charge the house battery from the alternator. Even if it's parked on a sunny day, there's a huge incentive to park it in the shade to prevent the interior temps from killing anyone inside.

Using the alternator is easy. The absolute brute force, quick-n-dirty, cheap way is to run a #2 or #4 gauge wire from the positive terminal of your your van's battery to the positive terminal of your house battery through a simple switch and a high capacity (100A) fuse.

Under $10 crude switch from any auto parts store: https://www.amazon.com/Post-Battery-Master-Disconnect-Switch/dp/B001N729FS/ You use this to 'disconnect' the wire between the batteries when you park. This prevents that 60W fan you're running 24/7 from running down your starter battery. Get a better switch as your budget allows.

Better is an 'isolation relay' - there are two basic kinds. The inexpensive kind https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005JCX8OY/ requires that you also find a 12v power source that goes active when your ignition is turned on. This powers the relay to connect your house battery to the alternator/starting battery. It's not a big deal, but possibly a small hassle. Any Napa, Reibes, Pep-Boys, Autozone, etc auto parts place will have one.

Or, an automatic type that senses when the voltage on your starter battery rises due to the alternator and then automatically connects your house battery so it gets charged, too. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00400IYTK/ You take the 12v cable from your van battery to one terminal. The 12V from your house battery to the 2nd terminal. And, the last terminal goes to ground.

BTW, I wasn't trying to 'burn you' but rather put some realism into your needs. At least you didn't mention electric heater or electric air conditioning like some folks do. For heating or cooking, gas/propane is the practical way to go. (There are some great, BUT EXPENSIVE, diesel heaters that can tap into your van's fuel system).

For air conditioning, there isn't any van-sized alternative other than a gas powered generator or an electrical outlet near the van.

Good choice on the fridge. And, you're right - it's not a 'now' sort of requirement.

Those battery powered LED things last forever. If you haven't bought any yet, try to get ones with diffusers - intentionally stay away from the brightest ones you can find. The issue is that in the small confines of a van, they just sear burn marks in your retinas. 'dimmer is better' I have these - multi brightness, magnetic stick on to my van's metal interior: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01H731UNS/

I got the non-rechargeable ones but use Amazon Basics Eneloop- equivalent rechargeable AAA batteries: https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-AAA-Rechargeable-Batteries-12-Pack/dp/B007B9NXAC/ and a USB recharger for them sort of like this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00PZ6V99U/

I have one of these. You do not want this 2 ft from your eyes in a van: https://www.amazon.com/BUYGO-11-LED-Outdoor-Lantern-Camping/

For camping, a small led light bar should be able to run during your waking-but-after-dark hours without needing an additional battery, assuming you occasionally start the car if it's an extended multi-night camping trip. However, a nice coleman lantern may be a better option given the cost of a dual battery setup.

If you are serious about dual batteries, I would strongly suggest an AGM type battery (oddysey pc1500 or similar, as mentioned elsewhere in this thread) and I personally prefer an automatic disconnect, over a hardwired or "manually switched" dual battery setup. I've had good success in the past with this one: https://amzn.com/B00LMGPHW2

Also, there are kits on the market now for jk/jku's that have the same smart isolator in them. genesis offroad has one. The kit is nice, but really, it's the isolator that does all the magis. they just sell you a nice mounting kit that is prewired for easy setup.

This particular smart isoloator also has a momentary switch option where.. if your cranking battery is low and can't start your vehicle, you can press a button and connect both batteries for 60 seconds, effectively jumpstarting yourself.

Manual selecter switches.. I've found I always forget to change the setting, and either.. never disconnect the two batteries when I should, or I forget to reconnect them for charging later meaning one battery is always really low. so I've personally given up on manual switches.

(Since this reads a lot like an ad now, let me just say.. I have no affiliation with cole hersee, other than having a great deal of success with that product I linked. I've run dual battery setups in several vehicles, and this is my personal preference. but like all opinions.. everyone has one, and none of them are "wrong" as long as it works for that person)

Have you wired... anything before? You'll need to be able to terminate wire to do it, but that's not too big a deal. There's also a bunch of different ways to go about it, depending on who you talk to. My preferred method goes something like this:

Acquire parts:

• 4 gauge copper stranded, jacketed wire of appropriate length to reach from starter to house battery, plus a little wiggle room, plus another section to go from house battery to frame.
  
  
• an in-line fuse holder to go right off the starter battery positive
  
  
• another fuse holder for the house battery, I like to use a triple-fuse holder, but you can just use another in-line like the one above.
  
  
• 100 amp fuses for both
  
  
• 4 gauge ring connectors/lugs.
  
  
• some sort of isolator. Basic-tier manual, a dual-battery manual switch (intermediate), or something more automatic, like a voltage sensitive relay.
  
  If you can't work out another good way to crimp the ends on, just pick up a crimp tool along with it.
  
  Plan:
  
  You need to create a circuit from the alternator to the house battery. Circuits are loops; in a DC circuit (as most are on a vehicle), the magic power fairies have to come from the power source via the positive terminal, through the thing they're powering, then return back to the negative terminal of the thing they came from. Most vehicles use the body and frame as the return path for the fairies. The devices' negative sides all connect to the body or frame, and so does the battery or batteries, so once they get to a device, they can always get back to where they came from, whether they came from the alternator (grounded through the engine block/bracket), starter battery, or house battery.
  
  Next, you need to consider where each component will live. You need to connect positive to positive from starter to house battery, with all the other doo-dads in between. The fuse holders should be very close to their respective batteries. Like, less than a foot. I lay my starter battery's fuse right on top of the battery, so anyone working on the van later can't miss it, and should know to consider the rest of that circuit when appropriate. My starter battery's fuse is mounted right next to the battery. The placement of the isolator depends on what kind it is. If it's a manual type, you'll need to access it from within the cabin; I like to put my house battery and a manual isolator pretty close behind the driver's seat, so I can operate the switch from there or from within the cabin. If you go with an automatic jobber like the VSR I linked, that doesn't need accessed again except for troubleshooting, so it's common for it to be mounted near the starter battery in the engine bay. Either way, the wire will go from starter battery positive, through a fuse, through the isolator or VSR, through the house battery's fuse, to the house battery positive.
  
  
  
  There's two types of connections to make with the linked items: "set screw" and "lug". The fuse holders I linked all use set screws, and everything else will use lugs. To make a lug connection, you strip back the wire jacket from the end of the wire just enough so the remaining copper strands fit into the sleeve (and only the sleeve) on the lug, then crimp it down. The lug then gets a bolt through it to make its connection. There is typically already a bolt on the starter battery terminal somewhere, and this is where it will go, though both batteries' terminals will vary in their format. You may need an extra doo-dad to make it right. For a set screw type connection, you strip back the wire jacket as before, back out the set screw, put the wire in its hole, then tighten it into place with the set screw.
  
  Installation:
  
  Snip off a foot of 4 Gauge wire, remove the fuse from the inline fuse holder, then set-screw the wire into one end. The other end of the wire gets a lug, and goes on the starter battery positive. From the other end of the fuse holder, route it to a VSR (if applicable; install its additional ground wire to one of its mounting screws, into the body), then on to the house battery location. Here, it will go through a manual isolator switch (if you don't choose the VSR), then through a fuse, and on to the house battery positive terminal. The negative terminal of the house battery gets connected to the van body or frame with a couple lugs on as short a wire as possible; a seat or seat belt hole is typically a good ground lug - just remove the bolt, add your lug with wire already crimped on, and reinstall the bolt.
  
  Once all connections are made, you can go back and insert your fuses. If you chose the dual-battery switch, it has 3 lugs on it: a "common" lug, battery A, and battery B. The wire coming from the starter battery goes to battery A, the wire going to your house battery goes to battery B lug, and the common lug is for your load (aka, your devices). The switch has 4 positions: "A","B","Both", and "off". You can set it up other ways, but in this configuration, the first two select which battery power is drawn from for the devices connected to the "common" lug, the "both" setting literally chooses both, which means it also is the setting for charging your house battery, and "off" ensures the devices get no power from either battery, and that the batteries aren't connected to one another.
  
  Manual isolator operation:
  
  With the engine running, turn the simple isolator "on", or the dual-battery switch to "both". This connects the batteries, which connects the alternator to the house battery. If the alternator can charge it, it will (see "Caveats" below). When you stop running the engine, and want to run devices without draining the starter battery, turn the simple isolator "off", or set the dual-battery switch to "B". If you go with a VSR, this happens automagically for you, and you can forget I typed this paragraph.
  
  Caveats:
  
  The house battery isn't as close to the alternator as the starter battery. This introduces resistance to it, which comes with voltage drop. The alternator has a voltage regulator in/on/near it that senses the voltage of the battery (or batteries) it's connected to, and if that voltage is lower than its setting, it will kick on, and start charging, typically at or above 13.8V, maybe 14.1. An idle, full battery will read closer to 13V. A 12V battery is actually dead if it gets down to 12V; anything running on 12V accepts all these voltages, and so these systems are considered to run on "12V nominal", which is a range including all these. Anyways, from the perspective of the alternator or house battery, there is less voltage present on the far end than from the near end, due to the voltage drop over distance in the wire. So, the house battery never sees full charging voltage from the alternator, and therefor may never fill all the way up. Measure voltage at the starter battery while the engine's on and alternator's charging, then measure it again at the house battery. The difference between these two is your voltage drop, which should be in the 1-3% range. More or less, this is how short of full you can get your house battery only charging from the alternator.
  
  If you choose a manual isolator, you will get the most charging output possible from your alternator, and you can throw the switch to "jump start" yourself if your starter battery should die, but you might forget to turn the switch one day, and accidentally drain your starter battery. I simply make checking the state of the switch part of my van start-up and shut-down routine, and have only had a problem once. If you instead go with an automatic isolator or VSR, you won't have to worry about this, but your charging rate will be limited by the rating of the device chosen, if its rating is below the alternator's rating.
  
  Your power distribution to your loads still needs additional fusing. If you use the dual-battery switch, most loads should come off the common lug, through a fuse, and on to the devices. If not, then connect them from the starter battery, through a fuse, and on to the devices. Many people install a fuse block with multiple fused circuits to go to various devices; it needs a fuse in its feed that is as large as all the other fuses combined.
  
  Wondering why I linked a triple-fuse holder? It's a neat sort of junction for the house battery's positive terminal, where everything connecting needs fused anyway, and these particular fuses can need to be quite large, though different sizes. 100A alternator charge, 50A+ load distribution, 30A+ solar charge, or the big ol' honkin inverter I tend to install on my builds.
  
  

Great idea with the fan. I used a battery powered one before, but it’s so weak and you have to constantly get new batteries.. see if you can find a portable “usb powered” one or something like that—assuming your car has a always on port where it could keep it on even if the car is turned off. Otherwise you can hook it up to a good battery pack of some sort.


I had a battery pack that was SUPER handy. It was one of those “car jumper” batteries—which you should own anyway so you can jump your own car and not get stranded somewhere. Anyway we would charge it every time we were over at a park with electrical hookup, and it would last us at least two or three days of charging small electronic devices (such as laptops, cameras, etc) when needed. I def recommend you get one if you don’t already have it.


We also had a mini cooler/fridge that hooks up to the cigarette lighter. Saved us some money from eating out all the time.

> You state that your batteries are in series but that would make this a 24V system and you only have a 12V inverter. I think you meant they are parallel. They appear to be parallel in the photo as well.

Thank you for the observation. I've updated the page.

> Also though you have sealed batteries, they should be isolated from the other electronics incase they burst leaking acid and hydrogen gas.

I was under the impression that AGM batteries did not leak unless punctured or dropped. Would putting each battery in a container like this and let the airflow push the air out of the main container be enough?

> ...the inverter should be a larger fuse though, likely more like 60a if not 80a.

While I was testing the inverter capacity I blew its internal 40 am fuse, So i figured using a 40 am breaker would be enough. if I increase the breaker to 60 or 80 as you described, wouldn't that allow the internal inverter fuse to blow again?

> The wire you have appears to be too small for the inverter amp draw.

I am using AWG10 for these connections. Others have also mentioned that this may not be think enough. Would going to a size 6 be enough?

Thanks very much for your feedback, by the way! I'm still learning but all the comments and suggestions help a lot!

This is a cool little website that helps to design solar systems and battery banks. Since you have 12V batteries and a 12V inverter, you'll need to wire the batteries in parallel, this will add their capacities and keep the voltage the same. When wiring these together it is important to keep the wire length between batteries the same, this is because there is resistance in the wire, so if one battery wire has more resistance than another, then it will draw a bit more power to equal the other battery and over time this can cause issues. This website explains the wiring issues and shows a little diagram of how you should wire your four batteries for your specific case.

So you can use the first website to show how the battery bank should be wired, and use the second website to see how to correctly wire it. Buying wires like this will mean they're already at the same length, but you may only need 8awg or 6awg wire for your purposes (look at wire gage sizing charts). For my two-battery bank I'll be crimping my own connectors onto wire from the hardware store that I cut into equal lengths, usually a cheaper option is to just make your own sets. A forum about a guy asking about battery wiring.

Fusing is also important, you don't want an accidental short happening in your inverter and your 6Kwh battery bank dumping hundreds of amps into it. Again there are many websites offering advice, this one is what I based my fusing off from, I'm only using one solar panel though so I'm only needing one fuse for that. Smaller ones for the solar panels and bigger ones for the batteries and to the inverter I believe the best way is to fuse each battery and then fuse the entire bank as well 5 fuses total). Slow-burn fuses are recommended.

Basically I would say use www.Google.com as a strong resource and post further questions you might have that you can't find the answers to (or can't find simple answers to).

Glad to help, Friend :)

Also, if you don't have one, I recommend buying a portable battery jump starter like this one.

Keeping one of these in your car will allow you to jump your battery without the need for another car, which can be a lifesaver!

Thanks! Everything went fine until the last 500 miles when the transmission seemed to be acting up. Hard shifting between gears through the mountain passes. I noticed it wasn't until we hit Utah were the speeds are 80 MPH, so I think working it pretty hard had a lot to do with it. What you bring is going to be entirely dependent on what you want to do on the trip. I will say that if you're planning to camp, like we were, once you're done packing, setup camp in your parking lot and see how fast you can do it. Some days we just wanted to sleep, and with it being late and both of us being grumpy, setting up camp and finding out your missing something in another bin packed away really sucks.

We were moving so we had a lot of stuff and our stock leaf springs were really saggy. I added some leaf helper springs that were life savers and kept us from having to take the trip on a brand new set.

Travel with a battery jumper, compressor, and as many tools as you can bring, just in case you do need to work on something. I was fully prepared to pull over to whatever parts store I could find and fix most issues right there in the parking lot. Check out the Dewalt Jumper Compressor (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XD6XBCM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_yR1GzbRN9709Z)to knock out two birds with one stones. The compressor is slow, but the portability and functionality of it was nice since we had neither of those things before.

We carried 10 gallons of gas with us through Canada and only used it once we started parking in cities, to avoid potential theft. I would imagine you won't need nearly that much for the east coast, but it will be a good idea to bring some.

We didn't have a single flat tire on the road, but we had the patches to repair most flats ourselves and also had the full size spare.

Make sure your A/C works, and works WELL. Before we left I tried getting mine to work with an A/C charge kit, but noticed my compressor wasn't even engaging. I had to take it apart brush the plates of with a Dremel and remove a shim and it blew cold for the whole trip.

I'll probably think of more, but that's the stuff that comes to mind right away. Don't wait to go do it!

These are some shitty ones I took while working on it. A bit of it has been revised.

http://imgur.com/a/ewNoK

Isolator link

Link to part references on alternator:http://www.gmt400.com/threads/96-98-vortec-alternator-upgrade-ad244.232/

I actually needed a new alternator anyway, so I tossed it in a week before I put in the second battery.

I had most everything lying around as spare parts from other projects except the isolator, and the batteries were more or less about 75%-85% off list price because the person I bought them from didn't know how to charge them properly (Thank you, Craigslist). I wouldn't personally recommend Optima's, as I've heard that they're quality has tanked pretty hard in recent years since moving to Mexico for production. Everyone has their favorite brand, though, and to be fair they've treated me extremely well while I've had them. The wire I had laying around was I think 2gauge, (although I think factory wiring for GMT400s is 4 or 6).

DISCLAIMER: IF YOU GET SHOCKED, ELECTROCUTED, SET FIRE TO, OR ATTACKED BY SQUIRRELS NOT MY FAULT

REMEMBER TO DISCONNECT THE BATTERY FIRST

The first thought I had was of where to put the isolator, which I decided to mount directly to the fender underneath the ECM. So I pried up the ECM:http://imgur.com/Eyb9V0D

The next thing I did was put the isolator in the spot and check the fit by reinstalling the ECM. http://imgur.com/H4aWyCD

After making sure it mounted up flush and didn't have any issues, I used the bracket included with the isolator to drill the mounting holes:http://imgur.com/WNOTapa I'm not sure of your climate, but I spray painted over the bare metal after I had the holes drilled just to make sure (standard black primer).

Next I don't have a picture of, but I actually connected all wiring to the isolator including the fuses. This was just down to being a lazy sod, as it's easier to wire things up while they're out of the space for the ECM bracket than inside. A friend of mine who deals with electricity way more than I do (and has been shocked less than I have, therefore meaning he's probably better at it) said to use two fuses on each side of the isolator to be on the safe side. So the diagram would look like:

Wire(To battery)----Fuse----Wire----Isolator---wire----fuse---wire(to vehicle electrical/AUX center): http://imgur.com/raDOSxu

The small wire on the bottom is the ground for the switch, the wire leading off to the left is of course the hot wire for the secondary battery, and the wire that runs to the right is for connecting to the fuse/relay/AUX center under the hood. With fuse holder in place:http://imgur.com/bunOUp2 Note that I'd go with a better fuse holder, but this is what I had laying around.


Next up is bolting everything down. For the fuse holders I just used the screws that came with, they were self taping so no need to drill the holes. The bolts in the picture I actually just tossed in because again, I had them on hand. I've since replaced them with some auto bolts and locknuts, and then of course spray painted black on the underside to help prevent rust or corrosion. Also again I put the bolts pointing the wrong direction, while the ones I've used now have them mounted heads down so they don't ever have a chance of catching anything (like my hands while I'm working on the damn thing).

Next up is where to actually put the cable to the Fuse/Relay/AUX block. This is something a TON of people get wrong on these trucks. Here's the best way to put it:https://imgur.com/dCiQa8f That lower stud actually is where the other battery cable mounts to the truck as well (the line that runs across the radiator cowl dips, ducks, dodges, and terminates there). The two posts on top are actually for for easier tapping into the electrical system (things like plows, trailer brakes, etc can be run from here). EDIT: DESPITE THE PICTURE, THE PASSENGER SIDE BATTERY AND THE SECONDARY BATTERY MOUNT ON THE SAME STUD. They should both mount on that side stud that 'points' to the fender of the truck. The top posts are just for AUX cables for accessories.

The final part of all of this is wiring the isolator correctly. The one I used and posted the link to has four posts: Two large posts (for to/from the battery) and two small. One small post is for a ground wire. The other one is to actually activate the isolator. You can do this either with a manual switch, or you can do what I did and run it to a port that is only hot when the truck is turned to the ON or START position of the key.

From the isolator: http://imgur.com/rxAjYJX

And where I ran it inside the cab: http://imgur.com/1iYnEf6
The wire actually starts out as red but ends as white (because that's the only fucking connector I had on hand that would actually fit that tiny ass little post in that damn box). You're on your own finding your way through the firewall, I already had a spot open because of part of a stereo/backup camera install. Use a rubber grommet at least, and if you do have to drill a hole be extra careful of where you put it.

Connect the batteries, then insert the fuses and get your multimeter. Hold your multimeter prongs to the primary battery, then have your handy dandy wife, 4 year old, or well trained dog flip the switch for your headlights. The voltage should drop slightly. Have them turn off the lights (after the second time yelling "Okay, turn it off"), then move to the secondary battery. Put your multimeter prongs on the terminals, then tell them to turn on the lights. If wired correctly there should be NO DROP in voltage. Tell them to turn the lights off (again, on the second time going "Okay, turn off the lights!"). Have them crank the truck and check your voltage on your primary battery; it should be higher now that the truck is cranked and the alternator is running. Then move to the secondary battery and check the voltage there. If you wired it correctly, then the isolator will have switched to the "ON" position and it will also have a higher voltage than your first test. This means that the alternator is maintaining the charge on both batteries when the key is in the ON or START position on the column. Yell for your helper to turn off the truck ("Seriously need to have their hearing checked"), and tidy up.

If I had to Do It Again (and I will after a few more upgrades):
I'd use a better fuse holder, something sturdier. It isn't that the one I have doesn't work, just that I know it isn't super sturdy and that bothers the living piss out of me. Now that I think of it, waterproofing wouldn't hurt. I'd also look into premade rubber caps for the terminals rather than what I have currently, which is electrical tape and painted on rubber. Do NOT over torque the bolts on the isolator, as they can very easily be stripped.

The benefits of dual batteries is probably already known to you, but just to reiterate: If you're adding a winch, use it while the vehicle is cranked and running. If you aren't going to be running, then make sure you get a battery that can deep cycle (manufactures make some that are decent at both starting and deep cycling, but not masters of either). Also make sure you don't wire your accessories to separate batteries, or you'll run the risk of running both down at the same time despite isolators and not being able to be helped because damnit that shit was hilarious and we were laughing to hard to get the jump cables.

Edit: Also check out GMT400.com, it has a bit of information on our trucks. As per the norm with the Internet in general and forums in particular some of it is over pandering bullshit and some of it is solid information.

I'd just put the biggest marine deep cycle battery I can fit as my starting battery, (probably group 31) and get a $100 lithium jump pack in case I ran it down.

Or

You can build your own goal zero type portable battery setup for$200-400. The Yeti 400 is a 33ah 12v AGM deep cycle battery with 300w sine wave inverter and a 12v plug in. It also has features like low battery alarm, displays power usage, and comes with an AC charger. You won't save much $ making it smaller/less powerful, but it will weigh less if you'd like to use a smaller than 33ah battery.

$50-150 for an AGM deep cycle 12v battery, 33ah

$75-150 for a 300w pure sine wave inveter, you can save more money if you don't need pure sine wave or 300w, or don't mind an always on fan

$25-50 for a 12v trickle charger to charge the battery up at home, if you don't have a charger already

$15 for a male to male 12v adapter to charge it from your car, or use your jumper cables.

$10-20 for a 12v socket or two, or a USB charger socket

$10-50 for a battery case to hold the battery and mount the inverter and sockets on

$30 on misc parts like voltage display, wire, and fuses

Hello from across the strait! Victoria here.

No worries, here are the parts I used:

Fuse Box
[Switches (available in other colours, look at the similar items)] (https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B01APBAQSE/)
12V Lighter Ports
Voltmeter
Inverter
Battery Charger (external)

I snagged the last battery charger they had in stock for $50, looks like the price available now is significantly higher. I'd recommend shopping around. Everything else is a basic part, and of course could be easily replaced. Just make sure your switches are rated for the amperage you're going to draw from them, and that the fuses are rated the same or less than the load you put on.


Best of luck, and don't forget to post your build when you're done!

Sure.

• Inverter - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0007NOUBA/
  
  
• 2 x 75Ah batteries - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00OZMVI46/
  
  
• Double battery box - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07QJ2MBRD/
  
  
• 200amp ANL fuse & fuse holder - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079ZNGCDX/
  
  
• Wiring - 1 pair of 4AWG 1ft & 1 pair of 4AWG 3ft - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071H7D7SM/
  
  
• platform stool to keep equipment safely off the ground - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072KDDS51/
  
  Should be about $750 for lots of runtime, and compatible with any pump that uses 120VAC. The only open question I have is whether the eyeletts on the battery terminals are 3/8" or 5/16" so I know which wiring set to buy. I emailed the company and waiting for a response.
  
  I used this guide to figure out what I wanted to do - https://www.tripplite.com/support/how-to-select-and-install-inverter-charger-for-sump-pump
  
  EDIT: wow thanks for the gold, kind Internet stranger!

I would make one change, replace jumper cables with jump pack (not specifically that unit, any such device should work). Might as well have all the gear on hand instead of having to wait for a passerby to come along.

EDIT: Since you mentioned a .22 rifle I'd recommend an AR-7. It's and extremely compact rifle that was designed originally for survival needs in mind. With that said I'm not sure what a .22 rifle will add to winter survival in most cases. A .22 is too small to be an effective defensive weapon and would only serve for hunting small game. If you're in a position where hunting small game is necessary for your survival you've probably driven really far off the main roads. Likewise most people would not know how to skin and prepare such game and cook it effectively for consumption so I would further question this being on a winter survival kit.

If the weapon is meant for defensive purposes I would recommend something in a larger caliber, if it's for hunting small game I would also toss on required knowledge in the preparation and consumption of small game.

EDIT: Since .22 rifle was removed from the post I'll just strike out what I said regarding it.

Thank you for the explanation! Good to know about the draw from the motor. I will most likely not have it at full throttle often during regular use - that may change when I get it out on the water but at least now I know what kind of time I am looking at.

I will be using this charger at home to fully recharge the battery between uses. If I am doing the math correctly then it would take a little under 17 hours to go from a complete drain (I will hopefully never have this happen) to full charge on a 100Ah battery - 100A/6A=~16.6.

I figured the solar would be used more for long stints on the water. Just in case I run out of power I at least have something to recharge the battery while out on a lake/camping, as well as negate some power while running the motor. I will see what kind of deals I find for say 200Ah battery which is about as much weight as I would be willing to add to the boat. At first glance they are around $350-$450 which is a tad over my budget. I am hesitant to buy a used one on craigslist or something like that...

On any vehicle I buy I replace those immediately. Get some 6 gauge ring terminals off amazon (negative is 5/16 and positive is 3/8 ring diameter), a pair of military terminals and some 3/4” heat shrink (harbor freight is dirt cheap). Cut the old ones, peel back the insulation and crimp the lugs. Amazing how much better they run without the corrosion and a solid connection.

I think they have a 25 pack of ring terminals for $10ish bucks. Can use a 3/8” ring on both of you want to. Out the door for $20 and have room for accessories to be added later.

Links:

Ring Terminal

Military Terminal

Have you checked out JACO Superior Products? They make the BEST products for car emergency kits:

1 - Auto first aid kit

2 - Good quality tire pressure gauge

3 - Portable tire inflator

4 - Mini battery jump starter

5 - Trunk organizer to keep everything in

3 stage charger is the correct answer. Also, some chargers specify they play nicely with agm batteries.

I’d: I would try to purchase a charger than can supply slightly less than the max allowable charge current (according to the battery manufacturer)

I’ve used one similar to this for about 20 years now: https://www.amazon.com/Schumacher-SC1281-Automatic-Battery-Charger/dp/B07BLLRM8R/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=40+amp+car+charger+100+amp+booster&qid=1568630635&sr=8-3

If the batteries can safely charge at 42 amps, I would try to find a charger that is rated for 40.

The most professional chargers are hard wired and automatic and begin to charge whenever they are supplied with shore power. Less expensive models have alligator clips to connect to battery terminals and require the user to press a button(s) to begin charging.

Make sure to connect to the battery terminals and not some wire downstream.

Also, budget for a new alternator or even consider installing a 2nd alternator just to charge the coach batteries. It has been my experience that alternators tend to fail when used to charge house batteries, especially through an isolator. Also, alternators are much happier supplying high current when spinning fast. It’s much harder for an alternator to produce high current when the engine is at idle.

I already have a PILA charger which I love. Also, my cars cig lighter port only work when the car is on, which I know is safe anyways, but I want to be able to charge them on the go when the car is not on, which is where the jump box comes in handy. For those interested, this is the jump box I am referring to.

Normal, in my experience it happens. Try using these https://www.amazon.com/Battery-Anti-Corrosion-Washers-Black/dp/B01155YKF4. Make sure you dont just use water to clean it. They make battery cleaner that neutralizes the acid and helps seal the post. Or I just make a paste with baking soda and scrub it down and put one washer when I buy a car.

I use a Duracell PowerPack 600 when I go camping. It's not made anymore, but anything comparable in specs should accomplish what you need. It will usually last me 2-3 nights and I charge it off the car during the day if needed. Super convenient and no assembly required.

You don't even need jumper cables if you get yourself a quality mini jump starter like this one. These things are small but they jumpstart my diesel truck with ease. Portable tire inflators are also key. I like the JACO one.

>get a battery charger for $135

You can get a whole new battery for less than that!

Schumacher SC1281 6/12V Fully Automatic Battery Charger and 30/100A Engine Starter with Advanced Diagnostic Testing from Amazon. $60.

12 Volt Automatic Battery Float Trickle Charger by Cen-Tech from Amazon. $12.

​

If it happens in the future, just make sure you run your car for at least 30 minutes and the battery should be fine.

Maybe a bit of a deviation from the root of the problem, but if you find yourself on Amazon, I highly recommend getting one of these. Unlike a pocket tester, it's built like a tank. You can roll it up and squish it in the bottom of a backpack or pocket, crush it your tail storage or leave it under your seat permanently hooked up to your battery. It's build quality and the simplicity of it's design just exudes ruggedness and reliability.

Of course an RFID transponder alarm system or battery tester will give you a more (sometimes unnecessary) accurate reading. But all I know is, every time I've glanced under my seat and seen that LED flashing between 0%-100%, I've never regretted spending that $8.95. Eh, if not you, maybe this recommendation will help someone.

Get something like this from your local auto parts store, or even Wal-Mart. I had a car that had corrosion issues on the battery terminals and after cleaning with a wire brush, baking soda and water (as others have stated) I put these on and they never corroded again. Cheap investment, worked perfectly.

As echoed elsewhere... No.

To fix this, get the correct ring terminals, and crimp them on. If you don't have the crimper, use crimp/solder terminals and solder them using a torch.

Then replace that positive battery terminal with an aftermarket that will accept all of the wires appropriately, or use a military style terminal and appropriate size ring terminals.

You can get everything you need to fix this at NAPA.

If anything I've said here has confused you, please enlist the help of someone more familiar with automotive electronics.

you would connect a wire to the positive terminal of your battery using an electrical lug you can pick up from any autoparts store. Then that wire goes to a switch (need to make sure it is rated for the current.) and the other side of the switch goes to the wire that was on the battery before. Or you can buy a battery lockout switch and be done...here's one on amazon https://www.amazon.com/Post-Battery-Master-Disconnect-Switch/dp/B001N729FS

Sure.
Lots of people use this one which is nice because it's got all you need built in plus some fancier features out of the box.

What I use and was talking about previous is something like this and this

They're very slow. I use a "pancake" type compressor with attached tank from Harbor Freight. $39 with coupon usually. The compressor isn't any more beefy but it has a tank that you can keep filled, so it makes for much faster tire filling.

http://www.harborfreight.com/air-tools/compressors-oil-free/3-gallon-100-psi-oilless-pancake-air-compressor-95275.html

You can also get an all-in-one combo thingy that has a compressor like that, along with a jumpstart battery, AC outlet, and some other goodies for about 90 bux. Like this:

http://www.amazon.com/Wagan-400-Watt-Starter-Built-In-Compressor/dp/B000GPV2QA/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1369441539&sr=8-8&keywords=compressor+jumpstarter

Go on Amazon and search for a jump starter battery pack. Make sure it has enough Cold Cranking Amps for your motor.

I have a suaoki one that's most likely Chinese and I've jumped started 5 cars so far.

For reference, this is the one I have:

Suaoki U10 800A Peak 20000mAh Portable Car Jump Starter (Up to 6.0L Gas or 5.0L Diesel Engines) Auto Battery Booster Power Pack Phone Charger With Smart Charging Ports https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01NB0A8SP/

Clean it up good then you can use anti-corrosion washers or [anti-corrosion spray](https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-80370-Battery-Protector-Aerosol/dp/B000BOKML2/ref=sr_1_2? s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1496404545&sr=1-2&keywords=anti+corrosion+spray) or just coat them in a heavy grease after you retighten.

The corrosion is caused by the dissimilar metals and perhaps a bit by the hydrogen gas generated when charging the battery.

Personally for local or camping (not air travel) I like the 35-55 AH AGM SLA scooter batteries. (SLA = sealed lead acid aka non-spillable) If you turn of heated hose & humidification (passover humidification is okay) they will last a few nights. See the ResMed battery guide for more detailed run estimates at https://www.resmed.com/us/dam/documents/articles/198103_battery-guide_glo_eng.pdf.

Basic list of parts you need:

• Battery https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00K8E0WAG
  
• Battery box https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002WCUIC4 (optional but nice to have)
  
• eyelet terminal cigarette adapter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00G8WLW2Y (optional for ResMed)
  
• battery charger https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004LWVEKS or similar
  
  Depending on which CPAP machine you have:
  
  
• ResMed DC adapter https://www.cpap.com/productpage/resmed-dc-converter-airsense-aircurve-10-machines
  
• Philips DC adapter https://www.cpap.com/productpage/pr-dreamstation-shielded-dc-cord
  
  Edit: the cigarette adapter is only optional for ResMed since it comes with a clamp adapter - Philips does not. I'd still get one though since it can bolt to the battery terminals.

I wonder if I need something like this would suffice, or if I'd need something like this.

Nice score, looks like it has a lot of potential and is near done. If i may add a suggestion, toss a cover on the positive terminal and make sure it is well insulated all the way to the starter/alternator so it doesn't short out. Maybe toss a quick disconnect terminal on the negative side so you can disconnect it if you leave for awhile, or in a hurry if something fishy is going on with your electrical system, never know when those gremlins can attack.

Well the battery is brand new now so it doesn't have any corrosion on it yet! I do need to do a better job on the terminal though. Do those little anti corrosion washers actually do anything?

I use this for my 2018 Honda fit EX. We didn't drive the car for a month and the battery was drain, car wont even start.
The noco work with 1 go. Yes I did fully charge it.
https://www.amazon.com/NOCO-GB40-UltraSafe-Lithium-Starter/dp/B015TKPT1A/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1547784215&sr=8-1-spons&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=noco%2Bgenius%2Bboost%2Bplus%2Bgb40&psc=1&th=1

18Ah means that it would discharge or charge 18 amps for an hour, or 1 amps for 18 hours. So doing 18Ah/1,1 amp = 13,36 hours.

That being said, the recommended minimum charging current for AGMs is about 15%-25% the capacity. So 18Ah*0,15=2,7 Amps to 4,5 Amps. For that reason, I wouldn't recommend using the 1.1 amp one for that kind of capacity.

Finally for the connectors, I'd buy this cord, cut the eyelet connectors and crimp some 16 AWG piggy-back F2 connectors instead. That way, you'll be able to plug in both the charger and your fish finder at the same time while having the Noco quick disconnect.

I'd keep the wire coming with the charger intact in case I need it to charge some other battery. The clamps are quite useful especially with the quick disconnect thing. It will keep its last setting until you change it again so don't forget to change the mode if you want to charge a car battery, you would overcharge it on the AGM setting. Just select what job you want it to do before plugging in the battery.

Or something more affordable PAC PAC-200 200-Amp Relay Battery Isolator https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CEBXRS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_ThO.ybZ8S9E07

I have it and it works great.

If you're willing to pop the hood every night, something like this would make it relatively painless: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071D55VM3

They make a battery clamp that unscrews and disconnects the beg battery cable when a vehicle will be sitting for a long time. It is commonly used on motor homes and campers. Easy to pick up at most auto parts stores.

Here is one. Top Post Battery Master Disconnect Switch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001N729FS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_98GCCb732JJV6

Leave the positive alone and disconnect the ground. Also if your are going to leave the vehicle sitting for extended periods you should get a quick disconnect. Something like this http://www.amazon.com/Post-Battery-Master-Disconnect-Switch/dp/B001N729FS.

So you buy a 14$ battery box and pop a fuse on the positive lead.

I also have an AirSense 10 Autoset. The power "brick" provided with the unit is a conventional 120-240 VAC to DC converter. With the Ego Lawn Mower and Inverter you're converting electricity from DC to AC to DC. There will be substantial power-to-heat losses due to less-than-optimum efficiency of the power conversion.

Additionally, the AC output of the Ego Inverter (see manual, page 9) is limited to 150 Watts. At 120 Volts, this means that the current maximum it allows is 1.25 Amp. The maximum current demand that the AirSense 10 requires is 1.50 Amp. This is why the inverter's overheat is being triggered and it cuts power to your APAP; too much current is being demanded by the unit for the inverter's circuitry to handle.

I recommend following Resmed's Battery Guide using stand-alone, deep-cycle batteries.

I take my AirSense 10 camping and I recently purchased the following items, totaling to $205.56

1. $68.99 12V 35AH Group U1 Deep Cycle Scooter Battery
   
2. $11.36 Group U1 Snap-Top Battery Box
   
3. $45.03 Battery Tender Plus 1.25 Amp Battery Charger
   
4. $69.99 Rockpals DC Converter Compatible with S10 CPAP Series
   
5. $10.19 Battery Tender Female Cigarette Adaptor for Quick Disconnect
   
   12V 35AH batteries ship factory-charged. If used with tube heating and humidification switched off, and maximum IPAP pressure of 16 cm H2O then a single battery will last you for two 8-hour nights. See Page 7 of Resmed's Battery Guide for details of power consumption if using any of the heat settings.
   
   I hope this helps. Feel free to ask me questions.

A deep cycle battery and a battery isolator. Makes it so both batteries charge straight off the alternator, but keeps them seperate so that you can hook all your accessories up to your secondary battery and not have to worry about draining your main. The nicer ones(such as this) will charge the main battery before the secondary, and with the press of a button will temporarily join them in case your main battery is dead so that the starter can pull from both batteries. You could supplement it with a solar charger as well for longer endurance.

You might want something like this for safety.

http://www.amazon.com/NOCO-HM318BKS-Snap-Top-Automotive-Batteries/dp/B004W5SGBO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1457794361&sr=8-1&keywords=boat+battery+cover

Battery terminal protector instead. I've had the same can for about 8 years. It has lasted many a car.
Clean the terminals and clamps with a wire brush, spray a coat of the protector on everything and add some fiber washers. I've never had terminal corrosion issues.

maybe im missing something here but my whole setup was like $250 at most. I got my deep cycle battery on offerup for $40, used this $15 isolator (bigger ones arent much more expensive), and this $20 box. Then i also added this voltage meter/usb port/ power socket to the box for $10. Then all the wiring and fuses were maybe $100 total.

I do have a shore power charger that has an in-line battery meter. I'm not sure how accurate it is though. The battery sat for 3 months, after being fully charged, in the unheated trailer in 5-15F temps. When I finally got there to connect the charger, the battery meter still read 100%. It is a brand new deep cycle battery meant for solar, but I didn't it expect to hold 100% charge all winter like that.

EDIT: The "battery monitor" I have is an in-line one on the NOCO Genius GC015 terminal connector.

Burners can help you here, one of these will probably do the trick, though it's not cheap. Maybe try ebay.

https://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DXAEJ14-Jump-Starter-Compressor/dp/B06XD6XBCM/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=LE5QPQVTY51Q&keywords=dewalt+jump+starter&qid=1568917426&s=gateway&sprefix=dewalt+jump%2Cautomotive%2C201&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUFLTDBNNDZKT0ZOQzYmZW5jcnlwdGVkSWQ9QTA2MzkyNDIxNUpCN1ZMNE1RRzBBJmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTA3MTQwMTcxRUJMVkRNSUlTSzVHJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfYXRmJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==


This jump pack has jumped my car in 15 degree weather a few times, plus the convenience of having an air compressor to fill up tires, alternator tester, two USB ports and a LED light all come in handy. Keep some jumper cables in your trunk as well, just in case you haven't charged your jump pack in a while/battery is super dead.

It won't ruin your battery and it should be 100% fine, but in general I don't like accepting the risk of attaching my nice car to someones piece of crap. If it was my wife, sure. But not some average joe

I carry in addition to jumper cables, a Lithium Jump Starter - https://www.amazon.com/NOCO-GB20-UltraSafe-Lithium-Starter/dp/B015TKPT1A

I have used it probably 10 times on other peoples cars and bikes, works great and I don't need to even open my hood

Be warned, they won't last long... I had one before this that died within a year, and this one died 1 year and 2 months. NOCO warrantied it anyway since it was so close, but if I never noticed it was starting to bulge, I would have been SOL when I needed it, and warranty wise

If I were to buy another, I would get the one Costco sells. Its covered by their unlimited return policy, so I could just return it every time it failed no matter what. If you are interested in the topic, here is a very good video on the ins and outs

http://www.mjlorton.com/portable-car-battery-jump-starter-review-tests-all-the-results/

Fully charged lithium cell + HOT car + time = death

I feel like that type of switch won't hold up well. I've seen them used, not on cars, but the clamp force between them needs to be tightened. Still, it should work as intended. Might arc a bit connecting it, but what doesn't.

This is the switch I've seen used before many times.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001N729FS/ref=pd_aw_sim_auto_2?refRID=1GHJA1JCE9CTZC5R36SK

I haven't had to use it yet, but I bought https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01NB0A8SP

Part of my requirements was the additional amperage because truck.

Instead of jumper cables, I'd suggest getting one of these which doesn't require another vehicle to jump start your car.

This is the one I bought

You mean one of these?
http://www.amazon.com/Post-Battery-Master-Disconnect-Switch/dp/B001N729FS

Ask your dealer if that $150 includes KY or whether that costs extra, too. If you can open a can by yourself, you can install one in about 5 minutes. You just need a wrench (or socket) that fits the nut on your car's battery terminal (the black wire that attaches to the battery).

THESE BOTH ARE MUST HAVE IN YOUR CARS:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07694R3ZV

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MRU6FCK

Non-mobile: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B001N729FS/ref=pd_aw_sim_auto_2?refRID=1GHJA1JCE9CTZC5R36SK

^That's ^why ^I'm ^here, ^I ^don't ^judge ^you. ^PM ^/u/xl0 ^if ^I'm ^causing ^any ^trouble. ^WUT?

Upvote. If you're not getting it fixed right away, this will ease some of your headaches. I prefer this style, but to each their own. http://www.amazon.com/Post-Battery-Master-Disconnect-Switch/dp/B001N729FS

https://www.amazon.com/Post-Battery-Master-Disconnect-Switch/dp/B001N729FS

​

While you are figuring out what the issue is. . .

Yea. Uses a wingnut thing. https://www.amazon.com/Post-Battery-Master-Disconnect-Switch/dp/B001N729FS

There are also These I've got them on a few vehicles, very handy just a 1/2 turn or so and the battery is disconnected. They're installed on the negative side and work very nicely.

That is a terrible battery box. The acid will eat the box. They make acid proof plastic battery boxes. With provisions for straps. Just make sure you buy a battery box for the correct size of battery.

https://www.amazon.com/NOCO-HM318BKS-Snap-Top-Automotive-Batteries/dp/B004W5SG6Y/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1496187688&sr=8-2&keywords=battery%2Bbox&th=1

No, they haven't. I don't think. Not the original owner. Don't get me wrong, there is space, but not a whole lot. I might be able to pull it off. What posts would you say? I was looking at these https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001QRTZR0/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A3SY7P2NFH5KUX

If it were my trailer I'd buy a battery box and move the battery to the tongue.

That means running a bunch of heavy wire from the tongue to the back (I would use 10ga minimum since it's DC and you get a bunch of voltage loss on long runs with DC.)

Or you could build an enclosure around the battery and put a vent in the outside wall.

You'll have to make it so you can open the enclosure for maintenance.

It's weird that they would mount the battery there, you might want to point it out to the manufacturers.

Most auto parts has a + battery terminal replacement that has a on/off switch.. Also doubles as engine kill switch. Cant start it unless someone knows to turn the knob.

Quick question regarding battery storage - what sort of containers are ideal for storing lithium ion/"lipo" batteries? I am currently forced to store them in my living space and it makes me a little nervous since I have no protective bin of any sort.

​

These battery boxes would do nothing for a li-ion battery fire, right? What is the correct alternative?

I went the lazy route on this one. I don't use my truck for months at a time and I was tired of coming back to a dead battery. It's a piece of shit so I wanted to "fix" the problem as cheaply as possible. Instead of tracking down the parasitic draw, I just installed a battery disconnect switch from Amazon for $10.