(Part 3) Reddit mentions: The best dimmer switches

Ok, sorry for the delay in getting back to you. Home improvement tasks have priority over home automation tinkering, but I have a few comments on these..

I got the wifi bridge and the LED controller w/ LED strips, and a bulb to try out. I didn't get a remote, and I'm kind of wishing that I had, because the ios app ain't all that useful - I can only get the LED strips to enroll in group #1 with the app. I plan to try later today using the vera MilightRGBW plugin (which has worked pretty well in the limited testing I've done.) I want it in its own group as the bulbs are in the nursery we're setting up.

One of the biggest shortcomings I see with this system is that you can't address the bulbs individually. They're all grouped up. One bulb can be in up to 4 different groups, and you only get 4 groups per controller or remote. Luckily, the wifi controllers are pretty cheap and it wouldn't be too much more to get another controller and expand out to 8 groups. That of course adds another app or remote, but I plan to do it via the MilightRGBW vera plugin.

The plug-in is fairly straight forward. You install the plug-in, it creates a device. You tell the device the ip of the controller and the group you want that vera-device-id to be in charge of. So, to fully utilize each controller you end up creating 4 vera devices (through the plug-in details page on the apps tab), and giving them the ip and group #1-4. In the plug-in, you can specify the color hue, brightness, disco mode & rate, etc, then hit sync and it sends the command to the bulb/group. I'll likely end up with another controller to take care of a few areas and have 8 of these app devices lingering on my vera devices panel (but I'll likely make up for them by making my lamp dimmer units obsolete). The plug-in also has some pre-coded buttons for Blue, Cyan, Green, Yellow, Red, and Magenta colors.

I haven't gotten too far into the lua programming aspect with these yet, but the plug-in lays out a series of commands to interact with the controller settings in the same manner as I described above, then you fire the sync command and make it all happen, allowing for some dynamic aspect to all of this. In looking at it, you can also set the ramp time for dimmers and some other things when you get to that point.

If you buy the LED strip controller, make sure to get some connector wires. It took me a bit to figure out how to wire them up, RGBW ends up being RGB-Yellow on the wiring schematic, and the arrow on the connector is for the black wire to match up with the strip's black wire. The connectors came with individual pre-stripped wires, but they were only a few mm long, so I stripped them back a bit more.

I spent about $100 on amazon for the LED controller, LED strips, connectors, RGBW bulb, and the wifi box (and something else, I think?). Overall, it's a cheaper solution than the HUE bulbs (which I was really interested in until they closed their system recently), and I feel that the value is definitely there for what I want it to do. The RGBW bulb is bright (too bright? It hurt my eyes at max), and has a good range of colors.

A few links..
The bulb I got: http://www.amazon.com/LEDENET-AC86-265V-Dimmable-Change-Compatible/dp/B00MNJSDLO/

The LED strip controller
http://www.amazon.com/LEDENET%C2%AE-Wireless-Controller-Changing-Brightness/dp/B00MGTVOSA/

Though I feel like this might be overkill as it appears to be another 4 zone controller, which might explain the problems I had with it. I might need to get a remote for this one?

LED strip connectors: http://www.amazon.com/LEDENET%C2%AE-Connector-Cable-Flexible-5-pack/dp/B00ML3Q2ME/

Wifi box: http://www.amazon.com/Wireless-Controller-Automation-Android-Lighting/dp/B014HTMLA6/

Ive been using zwave since 2011 and i can tell you that they work quite well. I've had only one switch failure ever (which was a GE dimmer). That being said, I have not moved to utilizing very much zwave+, but that is hard to justify when my current system works fine (and I got the majority of my devices for $10-15 a pop). I do have modern electrical wiring (not knob and tube) with true ground wires. I have a combination of both two wire and three wire wiring, depending on the part of my home.

The thing is, depending on how dimming is handled for led / cfl bulbs not all "dimmable" bulbs work ideally. The majority of these dimmers were originally designed for incandescent loads. I've had dimmable bulbs flicker like crazy or others not dim or stay on. I in fact for a while was maintaining a list of LED bulbs that worked with which dimmers back when LEDs first hit the market.

They do work better with larger loads. Most of my ceiling fixtures are 2-4 bulbs but I have a few single bulb fixtures on these dimmers.

As for links here you go. Both are sold by Amazon directly. I could cite more, but these are enough to prove my point.
https://www.amazon.com/Leviton-VRI06-1LZ-Incandescent-Dimmer-Amazon/dp/B001U3Z6YG

https://www.amazon.com/Eaton-RF9534AW-ASPIRE-Incandescent-Dimmer/dp/B004DFEQQM

The Cooper devices are still in active production -- Cooper has not refreshed their zwave line since those came out.

The thing is, back in the day, those Cooper devices were $100 retail and the leviton devices were $70. Back then dimmable cfls in general were garbage and LEDs were selling for $10-15 a pop, minimum. That's a lot of investment for something where YMMV with bulbs. In addition the manufactuers only guarantee it to work with incandescents due to the fact that they dim on a triac design rather than pwm on some of the more LED friendly dimmers (which can only be done with a 3 wire setup).

Here is the list of dimmers that I referenced way back when I was building out my zwave system. That list has since then evolved with the discontinuation of devices.

https://homeseer.com/compare-z-wave-wall-dimmers/

And for a modern device:

https://aeotec.freshdesk.com/support/solutions/articles/6000162176-nano-dimmer-user-guide-

Cites that a 20W load is needed for two wire install. Their accessory bypass device that acts as a load may also help out with flickering.

I personally use GE and Leviton / Monster dimmers that are originally designed for incandescents and they work just fine with LED bulbs, although I had to do some work finding good bulbs (the original ecosmart home Depot bulbs, cree bulbs, the newer feit bulbs, some of the 6" can retrofits from Costco), and Sylvania LEDs. I've had some issues with utilitech/feit bulbs (and it was challenging finding a candelabra bulb back in the day that worked well with sufficient light output -- I ended up using socket adapters).

Edit -- multi posted due to poor mobile connection and minor grammatical edits.

Heh, I think it's more like you got a bad deal. Even on Amazon the hubs are only like $15. The bulbs go for ~$15-20 individually. The kit is $55 now, but I think I got it on sale for like $48 with free shipping.

Here's the kit I got. They are the 6W bulbs, but it does also come with a remote that is pretty well made (though I don't use it).

Lemme know how the brightness is on the 9W bulbs. Like I said, I kinda want something a bit brighter and I was thinking about getting one of the 9W or the 12W whites.

Nice, I've had exactly that setup before! I still have the Gumby and SDR'ed HD800, but I've since sold the Mjo2.

I found that the Mjolnir 2 adds some extra slam (which can be fun), but in comparison to other amps I've used (like the Dragon Inspire iHA-1 and Cayin IHA-6) it is kind of hazy. If you get a chance, I would try it out with some other amps. That said, congrats on the new setup, definitely a step up from Mimby/LC, and a lot of fun.

Sidenote: Something like this has saved me from the blindingly bright Schiit LEDs.

I don't necessarily have a recommendation for dimmers, but I can share my experience. I wanted a z-wave dimmer switch for my Dining Room, unfortunately it does not have a neutral wire at the switch, which 99% of z-wave switch models require.

I found a model that supposedly didn't require a neutral: https://www.amazon.com/EATON-RF9534AW-ASPIRE-Incandescent-Dimmer/dp/B004DFEQQM
Quite a few reviews say it works great, but I use Home Assistant (which I believe uses OZW behind the scenes) and could not get the device to pair with my z-wave network. I have successfully paired dozens of other z-wave devices on the network over the past 2 years without problem, so it may have just been a bad unit. I did not purchase another one of that brand though.

I have a few Jasco and GE regular off/on z-wave rocker switches installed, and they work extremely well especially the models with the built in motion sensors. Definitely recommend units with the motion sensor wherever possible. Being constantly supplied powered they are much more reliable than the battery powered equivalents, aren't as immediately identifiable to intruders and the price difference between GE's model with and without the motion sensor is like $10-15, where as the cheapest z-wave motion sensor is like $30 and only runs on batteries which have to be changed once or twice a year.

I bought this USB->Serial adaptor to hook my computer up to the H801 to flash it.
I would not recommend it though.
The H801 requires 3v to flash, by default, this adaptor is 5v. I had to cut a jumper wire on the back of the board and solder across the terminals of another to convert it to 3v. If you aren't afraid of cutting/soldering jumpers though, its pretty straight forward, and I know it works.
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NAY1VJ2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

If you'd prefer to not have to deal with a soldiering iron, I would recommend this one. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B014Y1IMNM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_ep_dp_-faLybCT352ZP It has an actual jumper, that you can pull off the pins and move to different ones to change the voltage, no cutting and soldiering of circuitry required.

Not necessary, but I would recommend, this bag of jumper wires. It'll make connecting the serial/usb adaptor to the H801 simple. https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JUKL4XI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This is the actual H801 device. https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GJMRLUY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Then I bought these lights. If you get a different set of lights, I recommend getting a set that comes with a power supply. You'll need a power supply to power the H801 and the lights, the supply that comes with the lights will be enough to do it (assuming you are only running 1 or 2 lengths of lights). https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01HD37U6S/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

You'll also need to download the binary for the firmware, which in in the first post of the link I had in my OP. And you'll also probably need to download and install the FTDI device driver for the usb/serial which can be found in the same post as the one that had the video, post #358. That post tells you pretty much how to do the entire thing, video, pictures, and all. And feel free to ping me if you need help.

The hue recessed retrofit doesn't come in color but depending on the room being able to change the temperature of the white is nice. For a kitchen or a bathroom where it would be rare to change the temp it's easiest/cheapest to go with standard led retrofit trims and use a switch like this one if you wanted it still integrated with Hue: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CVL9SZF/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_xv..BbCFE9ZMW

But for a living room/family room/bedroom I frequently switch between cool or warm light and appreciate the hue retrofits. Color would of course be nice to have on occasion, I'd assume they eventually release a model for that.

Schiit LEDs are overbright for sure.

I bought some silver “Lightdims” for my Schiit Bimby and Asgard

They are like tiny circular tinted stickers you put on top of the LED. It blocks out like 80% of the brightness, but you can still see the light so you know when it’s on.

https://www.amazon.com/LightDims-Silver-Electronics-Appliances-Packaging/dp/B009WT7PYO

They are a great way to make eye blasting LEDs easier on the eyes and keeps your electronics looking factory and clean. They got black, white and silver depending on your gear color.

Personally, I've had good luck with these: https://www.amazon.com/Enerwave-ZW15RM-PLUS-App-Controlled-Automation-Interchangeable/dp/B07FKW42P6/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?keywords=z-wave+outlet&qid=1562176329&s=gateway&sr=8-2-spons&psc=1

As far as switches, I've got one of these (I figure the lights on the side help guests understand the functionality since it's not a standard on/off rocker switch): https://www.amazon.com/HomeSeer-HS-WD200-Z-Wave-Scene-Capable-Dimmer/dp/B079F38TPF/ref=sr_1_19_sspa?keywords=z-wave+switch&qid=1562176362&s=gateway&sr=8-19-spons&psc=1

That said, I've not yet installed the switch, so I can't vouch for it. Those outlets have been great with HA, though!

You want this:https://www.amazon.com/ENERWAVE-ZWN-RSM2-PLUS-NEUTRAL-REQUIRED-Version/dp/B07KQMGH7X/ref=sr_1_11?keywords=zwave+relay&qid=1551068633&s=gateway&sr=8-11

Manual:

http://enerwaveautomation.com/wp-content/uploads/products/zwnrsm2/ZWN-RSM2-Plus-0208160044-03.pdf

It's a little module you place inside the box (hopefully it's deep enough). You wire each of the two loads through it, then route the hot lines through the switches into the AUX1&2 inputs on the module. This way, the module can detect when you have flipped the switches and still provide local control, while connecting your your HA system.

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I was using one for a while that had a single channel, worked perfectly.

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EDIT: It's possible that this one is thicker, and maybe you can fit two single channel versions in the box if it's not deep enough. Good luck!

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EDIT2: I didn't assume the switches controlled those attached outlets- the above solution would work for both situations. But if you need to control those outlets and not switch internal wiring, you could use these, which are embedded Zwave relays in the outlets. One terminal is always on, one is switched, and there is a button on the front...


https://www.amazon.com/ENERWAVE-ZWN-RSM2-PLUS-NEUTRAL-REQUIRED-Version/dp/B07FKW42P6/ref=sr_1_11?keywords=zwave%2Brelay&qid=1551068633&s=gateway&sr=8-11&th=1


There are a few manufacturers for these, I haven't used the enerwave ones

Yeah I got the warm white versions cause I wanted them less blue looking.

For dimmer this is what I got: http://www.amazon.com/LEDwholesalers-Dimming-Controller-LED-Lights/dp/B003L4KKF2/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1381518684&sr=1-1&keywords=led+dimmer

You're also going to need a power supply. I got this one:
http://www.amazon.com/Ledwholesalers-Power-Suppply-Driver-Transformer/dp/B0034GUEY4/ref=pd_sim_hi_1

However, I wired all my wires by hand. They do have jacks on them though as well.

Something like this: http://www.amazon.com/Ledwholesalers-Inline-Dimmer-LED-Strips/dp/B004T9ITQ0/ref=sr_1_4?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1381518743&sr=1-4&keywords=led+dimmer

And then you can use a generic laptop type power adapter as long as the wattage is correct. I plan on revamping my setup at some point to make it easier to setup.

I actually didn’t realize Leviton made anything but in-wall/installed hardware. Thanks for posting that.

Now to find an option that’s HomeKit compatible, as well. I’m fairly certain that doesn’t exist...but you’ve got me wondering.

Edit: I think this is it:Lutron Caseta lamp dimmer. I had seen this before, but in product photos I’d seen it appeared it was an in-wall switch. In that Amazon photo I now see its a smart plug that just looks like a wall switch.

But man that ~$50 price.

Edit, again: I was wrong; that Lutron plug isn’t WiFi.

You have terrible dimmers. Having to wait a couple seconds is a non-starter for me, wouldn't use them.

I've had all types, and my hands down favorite is the Lutron Diva. The Maestro look nice and have fade in/fade out, but I prefer having a paddle, and the slider on the Diva, while not as nice looking, allows you to adjust the dimmer before turning on - which is nice if you have one in a bedroom.

They're not cheap, and the difference between these dimmers and a smart switch is getting close enough that I mostly get smart switches, but I still have a handful of dimmers around. Depends on your layout of course, if you mostly have light fixtures it's probably not necessary. But with modern recessed lighting you have to have dimmers.

Have a look at remotes from RGBgenie and from AduroSmart .

The AduroSmart remote is better looking, but the RGBgenie remote offers more functionality. They both fit in a standard US electrical box with decora-style wall plate. Both use TouchLink to control Zigbee bulbs such as Hue and Gledopto. If you have a Hue bridge, you pair the remote to the bridge first, then pair it to the bulb(s).

I have both in my home and they work great.

If you want to use non-smart bulbs (she could take the ones from her current place?) in a built in light fixture, you can add a wired Zigbee dimmer. Most I have found say they are not Hue (bridge) compatible but this one says it is. Basically wire it in like a standard switch, then you add it to hue just like you would a new bulb and it shows up as light. You can also find Zigbee plugs and some have a dimming feature as well. All of these require a neutral wire and be careful because some won't work with the Hue bridge so look for hue compatibility.

There are number of scene controllers on Amazon. I am using this one with smart things

Enerwave ZWN-SC7 Z-Wave Scene Controller 7-Button Switch, 2 Free Wall Plates, NEUTRAL WIRING REQUIRED - White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00RY4LP5Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_4E05Ab4X1K73Y

Before you buy, check the smart things forum for other users and if there is a device handler.

Looks pretty good, I don't know if I need the functionality of multi tap. The other switches in the box go to outlets on either side of the bed, and a ceiling fan which from my understanding cannot be connected to these switches. So, without the need for multi tap, is the $10 price premium over the leviton worth it?

But Diva and Maestro are both Decora, right? Both models look so similar to me, I don't even really see an aesthetics difference!

We're redoing all of our wall switches -- many to Caseta dimmers, so I just want whichever matches best with that (and is cheaper).

It's so weird how the pricing is on Amazon. For example:

• Diva with wallplate is $23.
  
• Diva without wallplate is $28.
  
• Diva 3-pack is $60.
  
• Maestro is $24.
  
  So at the cheapest price points: Diva for $20 (in the 3-pack) vs Maestro for $24. Since I won't need to add on remotes or anything in the future, sounds like Diva is the way to go.

I just got this dimming plug today for my newborn’s nursery because the lamp is too bright. Works great by app or voice command. They have a in-wall switch too.


Leviton DW3HL-1BW Decora Smart... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N106YN7?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

This is the wall switch. I’m getting this for the overhead fan light switch:


Lutron Diva C.L Dimmer Switch for Dimmable LED, Halogen and Incandescent Bulbs, with Wallplate, Single-Pole or 3-Way, DVWCL-153PH-WH, White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004C2WTLU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_DIB4DbFVQ76DF

"Dimmable" LED bulbs are able to be dimmed with an external dimmer. This will work in any dedicated lamp but you wouldn't want to hook a dimmer to a lamp that also combined some other function as the other function might not respond well to the power being reduced.

The next step would be to buy a dimmer. The safest way to get started would be with a cord dimmer like this or this. Just make sure it explicitly says it works with LED bulbs - an "incandescent/halogen only" dimmer isn't what you want.

That's all you need assuming you aren't interested in a "smart" dimmer (controlled by a device). If that is what you are looking for you should head to /r/homeautomation.

Awesome. Thanks for posting this. I want to automate my home but have been stuck on how to handle the fan/light issue.

Do you think it'd be possible to use the lutron pico remote with this setup? Or better yet, two of them - one for the fan and one for the light?

You will need to get different bulbs. It says right on the package "non-dimmable".

Assuming this is not a 3-way circuit (there is only one switch controlling the fixture) it should be an easy fix.

Bulbs

Dimmer

Good luck.

I use Smartthings and really like it. You can find the hubs for less than $80 if patient and looking around. Ya that may seam like a lot but using the switch you picked out at $80 x 3 for a cost of $240 while Smarthings plus either these Leviton or these [GE] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MUCZA1C/ref=psdc_507840_t4_B01N4F487U) will end up being cheaper if you buy 3 or more. Z-wave is designed for exactly this, home automation stuff so I really prefer to use that over WiFi devices.

I don't have any switches at the moment, only Hue but I will be getting some eventually. For a Hub you have two real options if you are really new and not super techy, Wink and SmartThings. Both have different strengths. I've never used Wink but that seams to be a bit more user friendly, however Smartthings is by no means difficult and it has a very helpful community and is more customization. Someone will probably take issue with this but I liken Wink to IOS (cleaner UI, a bit smoother, just works) and Smartthings to Android (much more custimizable)

The Lutron Aurora is the circular wireless dimmer that goes over a toggle switch to control hue lights. From what you are describing this sounds more like an in-wall dimmer controlling a number of “dumb” lights. Can you clarify what brand/model of dimmer you are using for that?

I use the Lutron Caseta for all of my non-hue lights. In circuits where the residual voltage was an issue I’ve had good luck with the Aeotec Bypass resistor (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0716BDNFB) solving my problems.

I've installed these and the light and motion sensor portion of it is just regular pass through wiring. There's no way for them to add that functionality to older models.

Your best bet is to disconnect the light sensor and install something like one of these.

Then, if you want to add motion sensing in addition to being able to control it via Alexa, you'll need something like this.

You can get smart switches that dont require a neutral.

https://www.amazon.com/Jasco-Z-Wave-Dimmer-Neutral-45717/dp/B077VCKFKW/ref=sr_1_15?gclid=Cj0KCQiA5dPuBRCrARIsAJL7oegVhYYyHE6nOtYGYI0g6V2rGAZTmIc88u5-Za_Wm4nZThgrVSyKuFgaAtNVEALw_wcB&hvadid=358701067364&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=9053013&hvnetw=g&hvpos=1t1&hvqmt=e&hvrand=10257027078348991636&hvtargid=kwd-380975921971&hydadcr=10070_10948885&keywords=smart+switch+no+neutral&qid=1574271486&sr=8-15

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or do a small controller inside the box like someone else said. like this

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07FBD96DG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

+1 light and ceiling fan dimmers have different ratings. Personally, I prefer light switch fan dimmers vs remotes...it will never get lost. Check on Amazon or one of the box stores; they're fairly inexpensive and easy to install.
https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-dimmable-Incandescent-Single-Pole-TGCL-153PH-WH/dp/B0052EC160/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1517849617&sr=8-7&keywords=lutron+dimmer+switch

FYI I installed this today at the switch and the lights actually became brighter.

I then installed it at the closest light and it fixed! The Lutron has a buzzing sound though so I opted for this one and it has no issues. Reviews said it was better as well

Aeotec Bypass for Nano Dimmer, Load Resistor and Dummy Load for dimmer, TRIAC dimmer switches to fix light flickering issue https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0716BDNFB/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_bYCADb08XGYE3

I have always had the best luck with Lutron Diva series. It is my go to every time.

Amazon link

Your welcome.

There also smaller remotes that should work like this one AduroSmart ERIA Smart Wireless Dimming Switch Remote https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07HJHJWGT/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_lO21CbXYRXQGE

But that one would not change the colors.
I actually have it just won’t be used with Abode.

stick a pico remote to the wall and you'll get 5 buttons you can use to pass into Home assistant. then an IR/RF emitter to send commands to the fan from Home assistant. if you're already thinking about getting hue, you could get their remote and stick it to the wall.

If there's no switch on the wall then the fixture must be wired to always be on, or maybe there's a switch/relay in the breaker box itself, so smart bulbs could be a good fit. you'll still need an IR/RF emitter to control the fan though.

Thanks a lot for the reply! Someone also noted over in /r/HomeImprovement that a regular dimmer might not work on LEDS. I found this dimmer over at Amazon and think I'll buy it to give it a shot, especially since it says it's made to work with dimmable LED lights. Thanks for the link you posted too, I didn't even think about the fact that LEDs would be different from regular incandescent bulbs.

Every time we'd bring baby into the nursery for a change in the middle of the night, he'd startle from the bright light & my eyes would have a hard time adjusting when walking back out into the dark.

We added a dimmer switch recently & it's been great! It's also been good to have a tiny bit of light but nothing blinding when I nurse him in there - especially since the light's right by the chair.

It's not something you normally think of for a nursery, so I hope this helps someone!

Top 5:

• [Dimmer switch]
  (https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B004C2WTLU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
  
• Vinyl wall stripes
  
• Delta Emerson 4-in-1 Crib
  
• Ikea Årstid lamp
  
• Delta Emerson Nursery Glider Swivel Rocker Chair
  
  Paint color is Sherwin Williams snow mountain.

I've had this issue with Led recess lights flickering when there was a large load being pulled somewhere in the house. We checked every connection (neutrals/hots) down the line from the panel and all were good. We ended up putting in a magnetic LV dimmer and it solved the issue. Any other dimmer they would still flicker. Seems like some LED trims are just too sensitive with large load pulls throughout the house. Here's the dimmer we used

​

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Yeah later on I read some of the other posts and saw that you had just switched them out...

You wouldn't have fried out the dimmer using incompatible LED. And if you really want energy savings, I would highly suggest either swapping out for an LED compatible dimmer, or just return the LED bulbs and get a different brand that is more compatible.

edit: looked at lutron's compatibility program... the bulb you have isn't specifically listed, but other osram/sylvania bulbs are compatible with the CL line of dimmers. This one might work better for you.

ok so im sure you know by now that this will not fly for burningman but still want some mods to make it shine.

Here is what i would do,

get some 5050 lights and a battery pack and shine that bitch up. Im talking under the fenders to light up your wheels as well as follow your frame tubes so the whole things sparkles.
5050's
and a battery pack.
(a dimmer switch for all this cant hurt as it makes it less intense as well as saves battery life.)[http://www.amazon.com/Ledwholesalers-Inline-Volt-Dimmer-Strips/dp/B004T9ITQ0/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1404423151&sr=8-6&keywords=led+dimmer]

the whole setup should cost a little under 50 bucks and the led strips have adhesive backs, i would add zipties or clear packing tape for extra stability.

Then pop some small speakers and a sound system on it and your in business.

I assume the Schitty tape is because of the blinding light? Check out LightDims.

Nice setup though OP, enjoy!

okay, so why do universal dimmers have ratings like this one:

http://amzn.com/B0076HPM8A

while your statement is technically true, LEDs don't use power in the same way that incandescent bulbs do. The electrical characteristics are much different.

I have a winning combo:

These light bulbs dim very well with only slight flickering.

And this removes the rest of the flickering, I can't tell at all. You connect one end to the LOAD side of the switch, and the other end to neutral. Why they just don't put one of these inside the switch is beyond me... I ordered a bunch more for the rest of the house.

I have these dimmers Leviton 6674-P0W SureSlide Universal 150-Watt LED and CFL/600-Watt Incandescent Dimmer https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0076HPM8A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_Fgf7wb9GF6R83

Working well with Feit LED bulbs from Costco. No buzzing or anything.

Good luck!

You could always wire the Heater/Fan/Light with some of the Aeotec devices: http://amzn.com/B00FL06EZ4 and then put something like the Enerwave controller in the double-gang. http://amzn.com/B00RY4LP5Y
Bonus: You'd get 4 more controls/scenes in the same location.

I use Quasar Science A Series LED's in my room. They have a phenomenal CRI/TLCI/CCT measurement. Measurements can be found here: http://indiecinemaacademy.com/complete-led-color-database-cri-tlci-cqs-tm30-15/

Bulbs: https://www.quasarscience.com/collections/a-series-led/products/a-series-medium-base-household-bulbs?variant=3582653571

My walls are also painted with spectrally neutral paint: http://www.rpimaging.com/munsell-neutral-gray-paint.html

Edit: Also if you get those bulbs and want to turn them into dimmable "smart bulbs". Take a look at getting one of these. https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-P-BDG-PKG2P-Wireless-Lighting-Kit-Enabled/dp/B011PHGURS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1460642331&sr=8-1&keywords=B011PHGURS or if you just want a cheap LED dimmer look at this https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-TTCL-100H-BL-Credenza-Dimmable-Dimmer/dp/B004DZONXI/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1506395376&sr=8-9&keywords=lutron+led+dimmer

Lutron CL dimmers have no issues with Quasar Science LEDs and are recommended by them as well. You can even swap out your existing wall dimmers with them: https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-DVWCL-153PH-WH-Dimmable-Dimmer-Wallplate/dp/B004C2WTLU/ref=sr_1_3?s=lamps-light&ie=UTF8&qid=1506395557&sr=1-3&keywords=lutron+cl

Very, very easy. Heck the lamp modules look like this:

https://www.amazon.com/Caseta-Wireless-Lighting-Dimmer-PD-3PCL-WH/dp/B00KHSXB60/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1521211609&sr=8-2&keywords=lutron+lamp

And the wall plate adapters to make the remotes mount to the wall are just plastic plates that you put a normal switch cover on.

https://www.amazon.com/Caseta-Wireless-Wallplate-Bracket-PICO-WBX-ADAPT/dp/B00JZRAFEA/ref=sr_1_10?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1521211653&sr=1-10&keywords=lutron+switch+plate


You don't countersink them, just screw to a flat wall. Its amazingly simple.

Gladly! I actually followed THIS YouTube DIY for the most part. I would watch it, as it gives you a pretty clear picture of what it all entails. BUT, keep in mind that this video leaves SOOOO much out and is not very accurate. I used the exact measurements that the video used, and made it work, but ran into several issues along the way. Below I will list the parts that I used, and the flaws in the video that required a different process.

• First of all, the mirror size and light lengths just don't add up. In her video the lights mount flat to the wall, but for the sizes she SAYS she uses, you must overlap the lights onto the mirror a bit. No big deal at all. But you have to put something behind the light to fill the gap between the wall and light (I just used 1/4" trim, super simple)
  
  
• Second of all, THERE IS NO WAY that she got that dimmer to work. I purchased the exact same one and it wont fit in the light ballast. I ended up going with an outlet style dimmer, and it works great. Ill link it at the bottom.
  
  
• If I think of any other stuff that is not like the video, I will let you know.
  
  
• MIRROR
  
  
• BULBS
  
  
• TOP and SIDE light ballasts.
  
  
• DIMMER
  
  EDIT: Please forgive me if this makes no sense. I am running on no sleep and tend to ramble when I'm tired. If you have any questions, don't hesitate to ask!

I'm in the UK and I've used one of these ZigBee controllers to control none hue lights.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07FBD96DG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_6ke1CbFTC1F0R

Mines in a waterproof box outside switching a floodlight but it's easily small enough to install in a ceiling void.

Mines the non dimming on and off version but they do make a dimmable one as well which I've not tried yet.

I have a lot of switches without neutrals. I went with the Leviton VRI06-1LZ switches. No neutrals and they work very well. The only downside is incandescent only. I had lots of problems with the GE dimmers, I returned them and switched to the Levitons and am very happy with them. The GE dimmers cannot ramp up/down their brightness when controlled via zwave. The lights will just "snap on" to the brightness which is jarring with motion controlled lights. The Leviton dimmers smoothly ramp up and down when turned on/off via zwave.

Lutron Caseta Wireless Smart Lighting Lamp Dimmer Lutron Caseta Wireless Smart Lighting Lamp Dimmer

This is the controller I use at home for a single LED run for accent lighting under the glass coffee table in our theater. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GJMRLUY

I also have one for around the front door between the storm door and entry door, and I'll be adding one for the overhead accent lighting in the theater sometime down the road.


You'd need one for each run you want to do.

With the stock firmware and their app, you could control them from a mobile device. When you want to add them to SmartThings, you then have to open the device up, connect a programming module (FTDI) and run some commandline stuff from your PC to upload the new custom firmware. Once you've done that, the device is then ready to be connected to SmartThings. I control my units from Alexa/Google, and am able to turn on/off pre-programmed light patterns such as fireplace flickering, rainbow, lightning flashes, etc.

It's a great unit for the price when connected to SmartThings, and you may want to consider picking up the ST Hub right away in order to get them onto it. That way you never have to deal with the poor application that the stock unit uses.

I ran all my kitchen cabinet strips in series and they worked fine on a 12v 3amp power supply. This Lixada controller is nice because with the right tool you can flash custom firmware on it.

Does anyone know of a good RGB+Warm White strip? I've been looking for one, and a ton of the cheap chinese strips have reviews complaining that the white isn't really warm white.

ESP8266 is the ticket. But no need to reinvent the wheel.
The H801 and Arilux (goes by a bunch of names, just search for wifi led controller) are both ESP based and have several firmware options.

Some of the better firmware options I've come across:

Espurna Has a nice interface, but doesn't provide a dedicated white channel. I also had some problems with flickering on my white lights. Would look at again if I decide to do RGB.

Tasmota Works with the H801 for sure. No reason it shouldn't work with the others assuming you configured the correct pins.

ESPEasy I'm using this with the Lights plugin. Seems to work the best for the white channels. A little more involved as the standard release does not come with the Lights plugin.

Woot had these a couple weeks ago, I bought 10 of the switches and they seem fine. From what I hear this style of dimmer is hard to use and kind of garbage. Is it worth the savings vs these? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N4F487U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_hWDHzbVT7JG5Q

This.

Also, be aware that some LED bulbs get a lot hotter than you would expect given the wattage they use. In case you're looking for a decent LED/CFL dimmer, I installed this one with great results.

I've done a couple installs of under cabinet LED strip lighting and I've found these LEDs to be very nice for the price: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00R5NUUAK/. I used a 40W magnetic transformer like this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007KWVFXC/. If using a dimmer switch, you need to use one compatible with magnetic transformers, like this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0006UUI06. Electronic transformers are another cheaper option, but you'd want to look into the pros/cons.

I'm pretty sure theatrical dimmers ARE triac dimmers just rated for a higher draw. Could be wrong and they just operate on a similar mechanism.

The limiting factor is going to be how many watts the triac dimmer is rated for.

A typical PAR 64 bulb is either .5k or 1k watts. A quick Amazon search brings up a 600W dimmer. Just be careful how much power you try to pull through it.

Also feel obligated to mention, you won't be able to get PAR 64 lamps soon. Basically everyone is ceasing production.

My recommendation would be to have a normal switch in A and disconnect all the other switches and wires(you can probably just leave them cold in the wall) and then use pico remotes in the other two locations. They're great because they can screw in right into a standard cover plate. And be placed anywhere since they're battery operated. Sadly they only work with other lutron switches even through a third party hub like a wink hub so you'd have to replace your leviton switch with a lutron one.
Also the dimmable Lutrons don't require a neutral as they basically keep the circuit open just a tiny bit so the can stay powered(think powerdraw of like miliamps) but not enough for the bulbs to turn on.


Switch: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KLAXFQA/

Pico + bracket x 2:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KLAXFQ0/

https://www.amazon.com/Caseta-Wireless-Wallplate-Bracket-PICO-WBX-ADAPT/dp/B00JZRAFEA/


You can buy them separately if you already have existing ecosystem or you can get this kit:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M3XJUAD

It works fine. See my writeup. You just need to understand that it's on the same zigbee network and can control multiple lights but it doesn't interact with the Hue bridge in any way.

The Eria remote is similar, but only supports one group.

>you can “see” Insteon protocol traffic in some led lights. Its like a subtle flicker when a switch is flipped

If the flicker is significant enough, you can either try different LEDs or install a bypass such as this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0716BDNFB

Thanks for the info. Is this the same one?

https://www.amazon.ca/Leviton-VRI06-1LZ-Incandescent-Capable-Dimmer/dp/B001U3Z6YG

It mentions requiring a remote to program them.

I already have this:
https://www.amazon.ca/Aeon-DSA02203-ZWUS-Labs-Z-Wave-Z-Stick/dp/B003MWQ30E/ref=sr_1_cc_1?s=aps&ie=UTF8&qid=1463539102&sr=1-1-catcorr&keywords=zwave+usb

You need a Zigbee switch. Just searching Amazon for that term will find you a lot of options.

You can also do an inline switch that works with Hue like: https://www.amazon.com/110-240V-Controller-Compatible-Control-Automation/dp/B07FBD96DG/

If you're not married to the Hue system there's also Xiaomi Aqara switches. Or you can go with Z-wave and use Fibaro, which offer both regular switches (Walli) and inline switches.

I have this switch: http://www.amazon.com/Leviton-6674-P0W-SureSlide-Universal-Incandescent/dp/B0076HPM8A/ref=sr_1_12?s=lamps-light&ie=UTF8&qid=1462886691&sr=1-12&keywords=lutron+dimmer

It seems to dim fine. Be sure your bulbs are dimmable also obviously.

The Lutron Caseta PD-3PCL-WH meets your requirements. Works with HomeKit, Alexa and Google Assistant, and requires a Lutron smart hub.

https://smile.amazon.com/Lutron-Wireless-Lighting-PD-3PCL-WH-Assistant/dp/B00KHSXB60/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1540571565&sr=8-8&keywords=lutron+caseta

so not one of these.
http://www.amazon.com/Leviton-6674-P0W-SureSlide-Universal-Incandescent/dp/B0076HPM8A/ref=sr_1_2?m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1370921222&sr=1-2&keywords=LED

I'll see what I can do :)

a dedicated scene controller could work in this situation. for egample the 7 button scene controller

https://www.amazon.com/Enerwave-ZWN-SC7-Controller-7-Button-REQUIRED/dp/B00RY4LP5Y/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8

I used Limitless LED and they work great. Not Z-wave but works with most hubs via a plugin.

https://www.amazon.com/LEDENET%C2%AE-WiFi-Bridge-Controller-Light/dp/B00HCLRBZM/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1480619261&sr=8-4&keywords=limitless+led

https://www.amazon.com/LEDENET-Wireless-Controller-Changing-Brightness/dp/B00MGTVOSA/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1480619261&sr=8-6&keywords=limitless+led

The lack of a neutral wire in most wall enclosures can make this challenging.

I'd be inclined to remove the wall switch and put the control hardware somewhere else in the circuit. Then put a smart switch wherever is most convenient, without it having a physical connection to the light.

Edit: Something like this would work: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Controller-SmartThings-Lightify-Downlights-Automation/dp/B07FBD96DG/

I thought the same thing, until I got a strip. Now I have led's behind my game machine, my upstairs workstation, under my pool table, and in my safe. I'm also going to add them to the underside of the cabinets on a timer to turn on between 6pm-6am.

Parts:


LED Strip Light Connector Adapter: http://amzn.com/B00FXTBNFY

LEDwholesalers 16.4 Feet LED Light Strip

White: http://amzn.com/B002Q907EW

Red: http://amzn.com/B002Q8YRYY

LED PCB DC plug Connector: http://amzn.com/B006IWM1AG (You will need to re-query amazon for this)

110VAC to 12 VDC 2-Amp 24-watt LED Power Adapter Transformer: http://amzn.com/B007ME2HMQ

Inline dimmer: http://amzn.com/B004T9ITQ0

I don't have a pic of the pool table with the lights, but here's the upstairs computer. I used about 4' on that, way overkill. It's bright enough to light up the room. I had to get the dimmer to cut that down a bit. I could use less LEDs but I don't feel like taking the monitors down to re-do it.

If you were willing you could go Lutron Caseta with a pico remote at the second location. You'll need a lutron hub or wink to accomplish this.

Or, if you don't mind using incandescent bulb, these don't require neutral: https://www.amazon.com/Cooper-Wiring-Devices-RF9534AW-Incandescent/dp/B004DFEQQM?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage

Dimmer

Dimmer Add-On

Switch

Switch Add-On

Home Depot Link

The sale at Home Depot right now is really good for them. I used camelcamelcamel and just waited for a price drop on Amazon to buy them all at once. They seem to fluctuate in price quite often.

Lutron Caseta Wireless Smart Lighting Lamp Dimmer, PD-3PCL-WH, Works with Alexa, Apple HomeKit, and the Google Assistant https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KHSXB60/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_NC5PBb4VNT7GJ

Not sure I understand the question, because hardwired dimmer switches that allow remote as well as physical interaction are widely available.
Inovelli
GE
Leviton

Then you could get a zigbee switch like this or this and pair it to the Hue hub.

> I guess that one can be paired with the bulb directly.

Yup. You'd lose automation entirely - because that bulb can't be paired to another zigbee coordinator, but it would definitely be controlled by the Lutron CBR.

Here's an alternative suggestion:

Leave the bulb connected to your new zigbee coordinator. Then get one of these and pair it as a button controller to your new zigbee coordinator. Then you can use automations on the bulb, and setup automations to have the bulb controlled by the button controller.

I can't speak to the specific GE switch you have, but for my 3-way switches at home I used the Lutron Caseta switch w/ the add-on remotes.

They have worked for about a year now with zero issues. The nice part about the remote is it takes up no space in the box. The remote is battery powered (haven't had to replace any yet) and can legitimately be mounted anywhere you think is convenient.

https://www.amazon.ca/Lutron-PD-3PCL-WH-Caseta-Wireless-300-watt/dp/B00KHSXB60 it’s not pretty... lol

I do like the way it redirects to the side though.

If you don't find an easy way to mod, there's always stuff like LightDims.

There’s this: Quotra Wireless Smart Dimmer Zigbee Light Switch Dimmable For LED,CFL,Compatible with Alexa,Google Home,HUB REQUIRED https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CVL9SZF/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_vfjZBbN8R83D0

I haven’t used it yet, but I plan on getting it.

The lutron lamp dummer: https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-Wireless-Lighting-PD-3PCL-WH-Assistant/dp/B00KHSXB60/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1538859610&sr=8-3&keywords=lutron+dimmer+plug

is the only dimmable smart plug I'm aware of, but it only works for lamps. You need the Lutron bridge for this wot work.

You can use any Homekit dimmable switch to control your G9 bulbs.

Try this, I have one dimming some 100w equivalent 1600 lumen bulbs. It shows up as a dimmable bulb. Occasionally the app says it's unresponsive (as do my other third party lights), but it always responds.

Any dimmer rated for CFL/LED lighting should be fine.

I have an Echo, and will most likely use that. I was just wondering if there was something I could get in addition to the Echo.

Something exactly like this, but that will work with a GE Z-Wave switch. https://smile.amazon.com/Lutron-PJ2-3BRL-WH-L01R-Control-Favorite-Setting/dp/B00KLAXFQ0/ref=sr_1_48?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1478479617&sr=1-48&keywords=z-wave+remote

Not cheap by any means, but this will do what you want and more. You also need to get the Lutron SmartHub.

http://www.amazon.com/Lutron-PD-3PCL-WH-Wireless-300-watt-Plug-In/dp/B00KHSXB60/ref=pd_sim_60_6?ie=UTF8&dpID=31sB4nI-RFL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=0GB2Z08VQNW5WTFPD8MR

Not much to tell, really.

They're simply multi-button panels that you can read and react to. Unlike normal switches they don't really have an of/off state, but rather are just buttons that you can react from.

this is the dimmer i am using. would you suggest LED bulbs instead of incandescent with that dimmer?

these are the bulbs.

Mine came with a dimmer switch.

Quick search and I found this https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-Wireless-Lighting-PD-3PCL-WH-Assistant/dp/B00KHSXB60/

If you are looking to stay with Hue ecosystem and not investing on yet another hub, there is also: https://www.amazon.com/Quotra-Wireless-Dimmable-Compatible-REQUIRED/dp/B07CVL9SZF/ref=mp_s_a_1_15?ie=UTF8&qid=1541380508&sr=8-15&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=hue+wall+switch

Supposedly I need an ELV dimmer (as per the retailer). Is there any difference between this kind and this one.


There is only one switch on the wall that controls the light.

https://www.amazon.com/110-240V-Controller-Compatible-Control-Automation/dp/B07FBD96DG/ref=sr_1_6?keywords=zigbee+controller&qid=1555708943&s=gateway&sr=8-6

​

Might be what you are looking for, haven't tried it myself

You could purchase a ZigBee On/Off relay thing

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Controller-Compatible-Control-Downlights-Automation/dp/B07FBD96DG/ref=sr_1_7?keywords=zigbee+on+off&qid=1573656413&sr=8-7

https://www.samotech.co.uk/products/zigbee-ac-on-off-switch-compatible-with-philips-hue-amazon-echo-plus-and-echo-show-2nd-gen/

I'm not familiar with Wink, but seeing as how it's Z-wave what about this or this?

Since the luminaire is controlled from 3 locations you will need (2) 3 ways and (1) 4 way switch. Lutron

I have these lights and have tried this and this which didn't work. I have this one right now but haven't installed it yet. Mind you, the bulbs you have and how many lights are on the circuit will change what dimmer you need.

So you’re going to need a dimmer switch like this one. That black dial allows you to adjust the power to the bulb(s) at the lowest setting on the dimmer so you don’t have any flicker issues caused by being underpowered.

(reposting - amazon link got blocked)

I thought that getting a dimmer would require a more complicated installation, wall installation, or a special lamp, but someone at Home Depot recommended an in-line dimmer.

I got something like this:

> Lutron TTCL-100H-WH Credenza Dimmable CFL/LED Dimmer, White

amazon/Lutron-TTCL-100H-WH-Credenza-Dimmable-Dimmer/dp/B004DE5ONC/

> No wiring required, just plug in to any lamp

and I got an adjustable LED bulb.

The downside to some is that the dimmer is out (not neatly configured to wall), and might be lying around on the floor.

I don't mind at all.

Unfortunately there is none on the Canadian amazon site: https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B01GJMRLUY?ref_=sr_1_1&qid=1503540159&sr=8-1&keywords=H801&pldnSite=1.

EDIT: Actually there is one seller but it will take 1 month to arrive. https://www.amazon.ca/Lixada-Controlled-Dimmer-Wireless-Receiver/dp/B0746DRSJS/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1503543114&sr=8-1&keywords=5-24V+WiFi+APP+Controlled+Smart+Dimmer+Wireless+Receiver+Output+5+Routes+PWM+Data+for+RGBW+LED+Strip+Light+Lamp%5C

It's not the best. I'm looking to replace a dimmer in my dining room, I think I may go either the Leviton style or the GE touch sensitive dimmers.

I also have same problem for my track lights. This is the only option I found for me if you need smart dimmable plug.


Lutron Caseta dimmable plug

There are bunch of manual dimmable plug as well if you are looking for cheap option.

Lutron Dumb dimmable plug

You have to replace the smart bulb with a dumb one.

And if there's no neutral in the switch box (no bundle of white wires in the back?) then if it's an LED or fluorescent bulb, you'll probably have to install a "minimum load capacitor" bypass at the fixture - a Lutron LUT-MLC or Aeotec or Fibaro or something similar.

No-neutral dimmers operate by leaking some current through the fixture. This works fine with incandescent bulbs but not with LED or fluorescent - so they need a bypass to leak power. Inovelli says that "You will need to install a bypass (sold separately) if you want to use bulbs under 25W" - but it's the load type, not wattage, that usually matters.

I have a gas fireplace that was controlled by a switch on the wall. The switch was a low voltage switch that essentially just connected two wires together to turn on the fireplace and disconnected them to turn off the fireplace. The electronics that control the fireplace are behind a panel underneath the fireplace, and there is a decent amount of room and a power strip in there. I believe most gas fireplaces controlled by a switch on the wall have a similar setup.

So what I did was plugged in a Lutron Lamp smart switch (https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-Wireless-Lighting-PD-3PCL-WH-Assistant/dp/B00KHSXB60/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=lutron+lamp+dimmer&qid=1564055576&s=gateway&sprefix=lutron+lamp+&sr=8-3) to the power strip below the fireplace, and then I plugged in this AC/DC relay to that (https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B017743I7S?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title). What the relay does is just make a connection between its terminals whenever the outlet it’s plugged into (the Lutron Lamp switch in this case) is turned on. I then spliced the wires going to the switch on the wall and connected them to the relay. Then, the last step was to pair a Lutron Pico remote / switch (https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00KLAXOE8?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title) to the Lutron lamp switch, and then I replaced the switch on the wall with the Lutron Pico switch. Now I can turn the fireplace off and on from a switch on the wall still, but I can also control the fireplace from HomeKit, Google Home, Alexa, etc. I also set up some rules to automatically turn off the fireplace if it’s been on for 3 hours, and to notify me if it turns on and I’m not home. These are just in case we accidentally hit the button to turn it on while we’re in bed or away or whatever.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0076HPM8A/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1473895379&sr=8-1&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=led+dimmer+switch&dpPl=1&dpID=316wu8hAERL&ref=plSrch

Just stick with a reputable company for the switch.

Edit

And get real led bulbs not that untested Chinese crap.

Edit again

Those bulbs are not UL LISTED. And the comments on them are absolutely horrible.

dirty ass lutron switches https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-Incandescent-Wallplate-Single-Pole-DVWCL-153PH-WH/dp/B004C2WTLU/ref=sr_1_18?keywords=lutron+switch&qid=1571089567&sr=8-18