Reddit mentions: The best distribution wall plates & connectors

> I think I would like them wall mounted but in the back 2 top corners of the room. That way they are minimal and out of the way. Is that possible? Is one way "better" than another?

Ideally, they are placed like this, with the tweeters of the speaker being 2ft-3ft above the listener. If you want to wall mount near the top corners of the rear wall, that's fine, just not ideal.

> I'll get a center channel. I hear it's better for dialogue?

90% of the time, the difference 2.0 vs 3.0 is inaudible if just 1-2 seats in front of the tv, if you have 4+ seating, then the people at the edge will hear a difference. Also, sometimes you get a movie or tv show that was mixed poorly, so the ability to alter the dialogue level is helpful. So I'll put together a L/C/R option.

Receiver: Denon X1300 normally $600 with usually going down to $500, but it just recently (last week) went down to $400. It features Audyssey's MultEQ XT and is also the lowest priced Denon model that will get Dolby Vision and HLG support. HLG is a royalty free HDR format and is very likely what the tv industry and cable companies will use.

Fronts: two options:

• Option #1: SVS Prime bookshelf + center for $850 (don't pay the extra $150 for the other color). Take note the price for bookshelves is for 1 speaker, so your order should be for 2 of them and 1 center.
  
  
• Option #2: HTD Level Three bookshelves + center for $565-$626 shipped. These are front ported, so they don't need to be >1ft away from a wall like the SVS. Also, I feel these will be better for home theater while the SVS is better for music, the flared ribbon tweeter of the HTD will spread the sound out more, where a soft dome like the SVS is very directional, so it won't be as good for a decent sized seating area.
  
  Subwoofer: will depend on which fronts you get.
  
  
• If Option #1: SVS PB-1000 for $500, if you want specs, here's the product page.
  
  
• If Option #2:
  
  • SVS PB-2000 for $800
    
  • Rythmik 15" servo for $1000, while it'll go over $2000 total if you get this, this is a monstrosity and is well worth it. Here is Zeos' review, if you have speakers (car, headphones, etc.) that have good bass, watch this part.
    
    Surrounds:
    
    
• Option A: Sound Appeal 6.5 for $70, also get the mounting bracket shown/labeled in the photos, it's like $15.
  
  
• Option B: Kanto Ben for $90-$100, they use a specific screw size and their mounting bracket is $20.
  
  Speaker Wire: Good speaker wire (<18 gauge and oxygen free) is cheap, here is 100ft.
  
  Banana plugs: While not needed, it makes things easier to connect the speaker wire to the speakers and receiver. I don't think the surrounds will be able to fit them when against the wall, so that is 8 pairs (5 pairs on receiver and 3 pairs for front speakers). For <$13, get two orders of these. If you don't know how they connect, like this.
  
  Subwoofer connection: You need an RCA cable, ideally one specified as a "subwoofer cable" as it is better shielded. Just search on Amazon and choose between the AmazonBasics and the MediaBridge ones and the length you want.

I will probably get flak for doing this but here you go:

Sony SSB1000 ($55) These speakers are pretty good for how cheap they are. Much better than the Micca Covos.

SMSL-SA-50 ($68) I have this amp and it is awesome how much it puts out. I see the people all the time recommend the Lepai LP-2020 for cheap setups but ignore that amp. Get this one.

There you have it. Cheap setup that is entirely expandable. Get some Banana plugs and some cheap speaker wire.

Later on if you save your pennies you can buy something like the dayton sub for about 100 bucks and will fit nicely with that setup.

Ok. So, it looks like you are currently wired for phones. It looks like Cat5, but without reading the writing on the sheath, I can't know for sure. If it is, you are in luck and will be able to get hard wired data in each room.
It looks like there are 5 cables coming into the closet. This should mean that 5 rooms have wall jacks like the one pictured in the first picture, correct?

It also looks like you have an alarm system? It looks like there is some kind of access control or alarm panel that the phone line is connected too. Disclaimer: Disconnecting anything may render other low voltage systems inoperable. If you do not own the building, check with the owner to make sure nothing will be disturbed. Also, use common sense and exercise appropriate safety precautions. Also be sure to follow your local government's building and electrical codes where applicable.


What you will need (assuming 5 rooms)

• 5 RJ45 connectors.
  
  
• 5 RJ45 wall jacks with faceplate
  
  
• modem
  
  
• 8 port ethernet switch
  
  
• a three foot Cat5 patch cable
  
  
• punch down tool for jack termination (many jacks come with a little tool you can use)
  
  
• crimper tool for the connectors
  
  
• wire cutters/ strippers
  
  First, start inside your closet panel. Separate the 5 Cat5 cables (blue). Terminate each one with an RJ45 connector.
  See this for detailed info on how to do so.
  
  If the modem is not already installed, it can be, right inside your closet panel there with one of the white coax cables on the right (broadband.. not sure what to tell you about DSL). Have the ISP tech hook it up because I am not sure what is happening with all of those splitters and/ or filters on the coax. (If you are nice, they may punch down and terminate the Cat5 for you if you have the rest of the parts.)
  Using a patch cable, connect the modem to a nice Ethernet switch.
  Then, plug in each of the newly terminated RJ45s into each port of the switch. There will be empty ports. I always like to leave room for future expansion.
  Alternatively, if your modem has a built in switch (most modems are modem, switch, wifi router combos these days), you can use as many ports int the back of the modem as you can. You may need to get a separate switch and daisy chain it from the modem depending on how may ports the modem has.
  
  Then, go to each room and terminate a wall jack on each of the Cat5's coming up through the wall.
  
  Power up and test. Should be pretty straightforward pending any unfortunate happenings.
  
  Hope this helps. Feel free to PM me if you have any questions.

You might want to post to /r/cableadvice for more help.

Brocade Best Practices Guide: Cabling the Data Center

You haven't given much detail on what you're trying to accomplish. You seem to be doing framing, high voltage, and data runs for a data center. Here's some items that might be best suited for you:

1. Don't run power parallel with Ethernet. Additionally, when crossing power runs, do so at as close to a 90° angle as possible. If you don't follow this, the EMI will cause random packets to not reach their destination. A nice way to handle this is through the use of overhead cable pathways. Those will be very helpful in connecting to each rack's horizontal and vertical pathways. Also, it allows you to keep power down bottom and data up top (so they never connect).
   
   
2. I'm concerned that the high voltage is not running through some form of conduit. It's likely either you live in a place with very lax codes or an Electrician wasn't brought in.
   
   
3. It's great that the ends are labeled. Terminate the Ethernet cables at patch panels; not with RJ45 ends.
   
   
4. Are you using plenum cables or have otherwise reached the fire-safety codes?
   
   If you give more detail on where these runs start and end, as well as what the area is going to be used for, we can help with different suggestions.
   
   Edit: I also like /u/skifdank's suggestion of J-Hooks as a replacement for the cable pathways, if you insist on using the hot aisles, for some reason.

Unfortunately £100 is just around the lower limit of the very-entry level, not really mid-range if we're going to be honest.

The easy solution is M-audio AV-40s. They are 'powered monitors' so the amplifier is inside, all you have to do is feed them signal.

Alternatively, you could go for "passive" bookshelf loudspeakers and an amplifier. The advantage to this route is that you can upgrade the speakers or amp separately (edit: also each individual component is probably at least a bit better than the av40s, and if anything ever fails it can be replaced separately; it's just more flexible overall). There's some extra work involved but it's not difficult..

These Wharfedale 9.0 should be good for the price (the Diamond 9.1 were reviewed by Stereophile and they measure well for the price).

You'll need an amp, speaker wire, and some banana plugs are helpful. Oh, and probably a 3.5mm stereo to 2RCA cable to connect your 3.5mm source(s) to the amp.

How much better are either of these compared to tiny computer speakers like Logitech or Creative etc.? Much better.

You have already mentioned that size is a factor. In that case, I can recommend Denon SC-F109, which are almost the same size and about £10 more. Tried, tested and impressed. Never heard the QAcoustics so cannot say anything, but the Denon has a lot of fans in Germany apart from me.


Both of your amps are good enough for desktop use. Get the SA 50 if you also plan on using it for a small party.

The wire seems a bit expensive to me. For that price you could get 100 feet of speaker cable and banana plugs and attach them yourself. All you need is a wire stripper or a pocket knife. In fact, I don't even use banana plugs; they are only convenient if you plan to connect/disconnect speakers often. 12 AWG would be too thick for your purpose, 16 AWG (or even 18) is good enough. You could also save some money by buying per meter (or feet as you're in the UK!) from some sellers or check your local classifieds to see if someone wants to get rid of their extra speaker cable. Also, I can vouch for this 3.5mm to RCA cable. These are a little more expensive, but very well made and don't usually suffer from contact issues.

PS: Just wanted to add some more information about speaker dimensions. H x W x D mm

• Denon SC-F109 - 245 x 165 x 234
  
  
• Wharfedale Diamond 9.0 - 236 x 145 x 165
  
  
• Q Acoustics 2010i - 235 x 150 x 203
  
  So the Wharfedales really are the smallest of the lot, and the Denons the biggest but only in depth.

Great! Thanks for the tips. Haha the chairs are actually recliners...but didn't think the detail of the chairs mattered as much as location. They can and WILL be moved to best suit the environment.

I also am going to have a fairly large entertainment unit to house the xbox, cable etc. below the mounted TV and was going to use this to help hide the wires going from unit to TV. For that speaker system you mentioned (haven't had a chance to look through it all yet) are there going to be wires everywhere? Is that why you suggest having wires run all through the walls on the sides?

I'll be going through those other posts you mentioned and hopefully grow my knowledge base.

Yeah great choice.

As far as cables, it really depends on how you have it set up.

The ideal scenario would be (for me at least):

• All video sources into back of receiver with HDMI cables (premium high-speed if it's a 4K source)
  
  
• One HDMI cable from receiver to HDMI 2 in TV (that's the ARC one). This allows you to use the TV apps (Netflix, Amazon, etc) to take advantage of the sweet, sweet Dolby Vision.
  
  
• Speaker wiring. Depends on how you want to wire it. I did in wall wiring so I used CL2 rated wire for the in-wall runs which terminated at a banana plug wall plate behind the receiver and a banana clip wall plate behind F/L and F/R. Then I used clear 14 AWG speaker wire from the wallplates to the receiver and speakers. I went straight from the receiver to the center channel (which you don't have yet). I also pre-wired for surrounds and Atmos but haven't gotten the components (Atmos at least) yet.
  
  
• Speaker wire termination.
  The speakers and receiver have the ability to connect to bare speaker wire but I went the route of using these banana clips for a cleaner look.
  
  Really it all depends on your set-up I guess. I can post some pics of mine to help clarify stuff as well.

Umm, actual professional AV Installer here.

1. Customers hate being told they have bad ideas.
   
2. People will think this person is nuts if they don't put the tv over the fireplace plus it's kind of a small area so, yeah, the tv's going over the fireplace.
   
3. There's a ton of room behind the top of the fireplace opening because the entire FP unit itself if made of metal and placed in to the framed out wall. The key is what's below you, is it open or finished basement? I'm assuming open or drop ceiling.
   
4. What you want to do is get your cables (including romex) down the inside of the wall just to the side of the fireplace. It looks like about 6 inches wide there. There's an decent amount of wood so you can cut a 1 1/2 inch hole through the floor (inside the wall!). It looks like the right side will have the gas feed, you'll know this by the chrome key plate on the wall, so use the other side for your cables just to be on the safe side.
   
5. Depending on the tv bracket you get (and the weight of your tv), you may need to secure a sheet of plywood to the wall first. Better yet, I would cut out a good amount of sheet rock (2x4ft) so you can stick your whole head and shoulders in the wall to see where your cables are going. Then just cover that hole up with the plywood.
   
6. I'd go with a small cabinet just below those windows there to hold your cable box, xbox, av gear, etc. It looks like there's already a cable outlet there so when you're in the basement you'll want to come up right along side that with all your cables. Bring your romex up along there too but in a different stud cavity. You want to keep a minimum of 6 inches of space between high voltage and low voltage and if they have to cross be sure it's at 90 degrees.
   
7. Buy this http://amzn.to/O53Odf or something like it to extend the electric. This will pass NEC code. Extension cords are not allowed inside the walls. Plug it in to the wall under those windows or better yet get a good surge protector.
   
8. Sorry, just realized this is a 2month old post. How did it go?! haha

Hey Guys, I'm trying to create a some-what cheap and MODERN set up for myself with multiple use (but limited channels in the receiver, so I found a receiver with Bluetooth option) and high convenience... Am I missing anything? Or is there anything I should add?

Cheap Bluetooth w/ Limited Channels Receiver

Turntable, and I really love this one.... Really Jacks Up Price

Speakers that come with wire, but adding a spool from amazon anyways...

Wire and Plugs

Do I need anything else? Hi-Fi amp or something? The turntable comes with a phono-preamp and the speakers look decent and are at my price range. Any tips on how to set this up as well? Including the best way to use the plugs or if I should get different plugs.

With the current prices of this post, the overall price is... $462.88 USD and W/O the turntable, it is $213.88 XD

Replacement Turntable that is affordable which puts the new price at $298.88

Give me about an hour and I'll edit this comment with store links to what I got.

Edit: Here is the list

1. Receiver/Amp This is very basic and will only support the bookshelf speakers themselves. If you want to add a sub or center, your going to need a full on stereo receiver. WARNING - when plugging in the banana plugs into this receiver, i had to force them in a bit to make them stay in. I thought I broke it, but my friend who recommended me this receiver said thats how his is too. so if the banana plugs go in weird, its ok :).
   
   
2. Audio to RCA adapter. This is the wire to hook up to your PC. This could vary per setup. My setup goes from speakers to receiver, then receiver to PC with this cable. You could use RCA to optical cable as well. You have to make sure that if your PC is hooked up to your TV or monitor via HDMI to change the Audio input from hdmi to speakers.
   
   
3. Speaker wire This is how you connect the speakers to the receiver. and the best way to do that is with banana plugs
   
   
4. Bananna Plugs - Any kind will do and each banana plug hooks up to the wire differently. Some come with instructions, others you might have to google. I had to look at amazon reviews to see how mine worked.
   
   Total - about 40 - 50 depending on where you get your stuff.

If you already need to call an electrician to run an outlet, just ask them to make another hole for your A/V cables. If you are lucky they might do it for free. Will the cables just need to go from behind the unit down to the shelf that will hold the Apple TV?

I would ask the electrician to cut some extra holes for you, and you could tidy them up with something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/DataComm-45-0001-WH-1-Gang-Recessed-Voltage/dp/B00193U3O0/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1474998124&sr=8-3&keywords=1-Gang+Recessed+Low+Voltage+Cable+Plate

You would mount them to something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/iMBAPrice%C2%AE-Single-Voltage-Mounting-Bracket/dp/B00HYHEC38/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1474998033&sr=8-2&keywords=1+gang+mounting+bracket

I just got done mounting and installing a bunch of TVs and A/V cables for some of our branch offices, and that is pretty much what we did. The passthrough will easily allow the large tips of the cables through.

Of course you could also use a drywall saw and a cable fisher and do it yourself. If in doubt, call an electrician. Good luck!

Hi, I actually had the exact same dilemma as you and about a month ago went for a 2.0 setup.

In the past I've tried a variety of computer speakers and nothing cut it. I never tried a soundbar, but I am super happy with my 2.0 setup.

So here is my $200 set up (big thanks to Zeos for helping me learn and pick out the parts):

$109 manufacturer refurbished Denon AVR 1513 receiver:

http://www.accessories4less.com/make-a-store/item/denavr1513/denon-avr-1513-5.1ch-home-theater-receiver-3d-ready/1.html?_escaped_fragment_=specifications#!specifications

$80 Micca MB42x bookshelf speakers:

http://amzn.to/188rnsc

$9.43 Speaker wire:

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B006LW0W5Y/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=YEA53M3RQ14Z&coliid=I31E8R7IOVMB4E

This is the wire stripper I bought but it is no longer available for prime so I would get a different one:

http://www.amazon.com/Irwin-2078305-Vise-Grip-5-Inch-Stripper/dp/B000JNLUQ6/ref=sr_1_13?ie=UTF8&qid=1394413512&sr=8-13&keywords=wire+stripper

Maybe get this one (but any will probably be fine):

http://www.amazon.com/Gardner-GS-40-Milwaukee-Clipper-Stripper/dp/B00004WLJX/ref=sr_1_11?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1396936022&sr=1-11&keywords=wire+stripper

Lastly, banana plugs for the wires. Optional, but nice to have ($10.96):

http://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-109436-High-Quality-Copper-Speaker/dp/B0097JLQVC/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1394413889&sr=8-2&keywords=banana+plug

Total: ~ $250 with tax and shipping and whatnot.

One last piece of advice:

I originally tried the popular Lepai amp and hated it. I just couldn't get the volume I wanted from it.

I think they meant something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Mount-24-Port-Keystone/dp/B0072JVT02/

"Keystone patch panel" is the search term you want. And don't buy your keystone jacks individually, buy them in bulk. They'll be much cheaper:

https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-25-Pack-Keystone-Punch-Down/dp/B004D5PFGW/

If you look throughout your house where the ethernet ports are, there's a good chance they're also keystone jacks. Picture these, with those keystone jacks slotted in to them:

https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Plate-2-Port-Keystone/dp/B0072JVU8S/

Also, if you've never used it before, https://www.monoprice.com/ is your new best friend. I'd recommend always comparing prices between them and Amazon before buying something.

If you’re going to hang it, your best bet is it build an outlet into the wall where you will mount the tv. This way you don’t have to use an extension cord and you can hide the wires behind the wall. It’s pretty easy to do yourself. If you have the ability to mount the tv, then you are handy enough to do this as well. You can get a kit that has everything that you need like this:

DataComm Electronics 50-6623-WH-KIT Flat Panel TV Cable Organizer Kit with Power Solution https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JJ57CR6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_hDJVDbXNBNRN3

If you’re gonna mount it and not use that kit, I don’t know if the cord will be long enough without an extension cord (depending on how high you mount it).

Edit: it doesn’t have everything that you need. You’ll need some tools to go with that like a dry wall saw etc.

Ok m8, so after researching more, looks like MB42X is one of the best one out there and the bad review is from people who don't have subwoofer and they expect lower frequency from this speaker since I'm already going to get a Dayton 1000 sub, I believe MB42X is going to perfect for me. especially reviews say it performs really good on mid-range which is important for me since I watch a lot of movies. so here is my final list, can you tell me if I'm missing something like if the banana plug is correct (and how many of them I need?), and do I need the cable (no cable comes with the speaker?) and check for the AMP if it's good enough.

• Dayton 1000
  
  
• MB42X
  
  
• AMP 100w Fosi Audio TB10A https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B076P2VS9H
  
  
• Banana Plugs https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-109436-Plated-Speaker-Banana/dp/B0097JLQVC/
  
  
• cable https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-16-Gauge-Audio-Stereo-Speaker/dp/B006LW0WDQ/

Cat 5e unless your PS4 is capable of 10Gbs-1! Its cheap and dependable and most back boxes are designed for it. The e is important but it is quite unlikely that you will find only Cat5 which is only rated up to 100Mbs-1. If you only need one then run two and leave a foot or so in the wall at each end for the extra cable, just in case. If I was you I'd run three cables and terminate two of them and keep one as a spare coiled up in the back of the back box.

I assume US and let's see what Amazon.com offers. https://www.amazon.com/Ethernet-Plate-ESYLink-Cable-Female/dp/B076GLSN5J/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=wall+port+ethernet+2+port&qid=1565562692&s=gateway&sr=8-3

Ahh, it looks like you lot insist on Cat6 and have huge wall plates. So I'll change my suggestion to Cat6. Make sure you run an extra cable and don't stress them too much when you are laying them, especially when pulling through a hole, it is easy to kink them and try to use brute force to fix the problem. Buy solid core cable (not stranded) which is designed to work with "keystone jacks".

You'll need this tool https://www.amazon.com/CableCreation-protecting-jacket-Multi-Function-Ethernet/dp/B01FHBZJ20/ref=sr_1_12?keywords=ethernet+punch+down+tool&qid=1565563203&s=gateway&sr=8-12 to make the connections. You can practice on some off cuts of cable before going live. The hook on the tool makes it easy to pull the wires back out from the back of a jack. There are a lot of videos on the web about doing all this stuff.

Get low voltage old work brackets like this:

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Carlon-1-Gang-Non-Metallic-Low-Voltage-Old-Work-Bracket-SC100RR/100160916

​

Trace a rectangle on the wall and cut out with a drywall saw. Pretty easy to keep within the trim on the bracket, but the wall plate will cover more as well. From there, it's up to you. You could get a normal wall blank and drill a hole in it to run a wire through. You could get something like these that allow an assortment of wires to come through:

https://www.amazon.com/Wi4You-WI1007WH-2-Bristle-Voltage-Through/dp/B07F3TFMZ2/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1541523692&sr=8-2&keywords=decora+insert+low+voltage+wires

Or you could do it proper and get an ethernet wall plate like this:

https://www.amazon.com/Port-Ethernet-Wall-Plate-ESYLink/dp/B072J2RS43/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1541523753&sr=8-4&keywords=ethernet+wall+plate

Or decora style like this:

https://www.amazon.com/RiteAV-Decorative-Gang-Port-Plate/dp/B00ODFR6CS/ref=sr_1_20?ie=UTF8&qid=1541523792&sr=8-20&keywords=ethernet+wall+plate+decora

For just a single outlet they're a bit overpriced. But if you have multiple you can get something called a keystone plate and it allows you to put any assortment of low voltage connections in.

​

If you can fish it down the wall or come through from a closet on the other side of the wall, you could use a wall plate like this so it doesn't look quite as bad. https://www.amazon.com/Port-Ethernet-Wall-Plate-ESYLink/dp/B072J2RS43/

The flat cat-6 cables work pretty well, and I've had luck tucking them into the gap between the carpet and baseboards. I know I'll end up running a couple under the carpet the next time I have it replaced.

​

If you already had coax (from cable-tv) in those rooms, you could use Moca adapters. But I don't know if that'd be any better than the power line ethernet stuff.

​

Of course the best way involves making big holes all over the place so you can string the cables in the walls and then go back to patch everything and repaint. The easy way is you drill a hole in a semi hidden spot (in a closet or behind furniture) and fish the cables from there.

I think the MB42X are a good match with the SMSL SA36. If you're in a larger area, the SMSL SA50 would be better. The SA36 is good for smaller rooms or at a desk.

You will need speaker wire. I just use AmazonBasics. You'll also need an RCA to 3.5mm cable. Once again, AmazonBasics is what I use for those.

This will be a huge increase in quality over the Bose. Stereo separation is a lot of fun, and just for that reason I think they'll be better. In addition, the detail retrieval of the Miccas is better. You'll be hearing stuff in music that you didn't even know was there.

So, here's the shopping list:

Micca MB42X

AmazonBasics Speaker cable

SMSL SA36 or SA50

RCA to 3.5mm

Banana plugs are optional, they just make it easier to plug in and unplug the cables.

You can use a knife, but wire strippers might be helpful to strip the cables.

As /u/Grandsinge said - put RJ45 jacks in instead - either keystone jacks and wall-plates (with mounting brackets) if you can actually run it in the wall and you want a nice, professional look (this is what I did - a pain to do, but it looks great; plus I ran coax at the same time). Otherwise just go with surface-mount boxes.

​

In the basement, or wherever your switch is going to be - you can put more of the same (keystone jacks or surface-mount boxes), but if you are going to have more than 4 or so, maybe worth just doing a patch panel to keep things neat & tidy.

​

Edit - products linked are for example - not necessarily products I specifically recommend or endorse.

> My folks doesnt want me punching holes in their newly built house.

If you get AT&T and they have to bring a new line inside the house, they'll have to drill whatever holes they need AND you would need to run an Ethernet cable from the AT&T modem into the attic, and then into the wall into your room and you'd have to cut a hole into the wall and patch the cable in, well if you want ethernet. I had to do something similar for a friend's apartment and put one of these in the wall: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00F15CKQQ/

OR you can buy some powerline adapters and see if that works to bring internet to your room. Like this: https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Powerline-Adapter-Starter-TL-PA2010KIT/dp/B00AWRUIY4/

Running ethernet cables in the attic is much easier in a 1 story house, you just have to watch your footing and only step on the rafters, otherwise you'll fall through the ceiling. If you're in a 2 story house then good luck, not happening.


Powerline adapters are probably your best bet.

Assuming it's mounted to an inside wall, it's probably not insulated, meaning it's extremely easy to feed the wires inside the wall.

Using a keyhole saw, cut a small hole behind the monitor. I suggest using a stud finder with A/C detection to make sure you're not cutting into a stud or wires. Then cut another hole somewhere directly below that hole and just run the wires in one and out the other. It's super easy. You can get nice bezels to make the holes look pretty too:

keyhole saw

stud finder

bezel

I have no experience with some of these specific items but I wouldn't hesitate to buy them from what I've seen:

The cable:

https://www.amazon.com/Outdoor-Shielded-Waterproof-Ethernet-trueCABLE/dp/B01JAVN1C8/

The "ends" -- these are keystone jacks. You could put RJ45 plugs on, but I think keystone jacks are more forgiving, plus it's more flexible since you can plug a patch cable into this. Also, putting RJ45 ends on this direct bury cable will be tricky since it will have thicker shielding.

https://www.amazon.com/10-Pack-Cat6-Keystone-Jack-Compatible/dp/B07JRD69V6

The punchdown tool -- you could get by with a cheaper/simpler one like this -- you'll probably want this for stripping the jacket (it does both), though a razor blade will work too:

https://www.amazon.com/Mini-Wire-Stripper-Rj45-Cat5-Cable/dp/B07MQB7STL/

This is kind of a basic middle of the road example of a proper punchdown tool, though the previous one is fine for a small amount of work.

https://www.amazon.com/TRENDnet-Storage-Interchangeable-Reversible-TC-PDT/dp/B0000AZK4D/

Once punched down, you can plug those keystone jacks into wall plates like these:

https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-10-Pack-Profile-Keystone/dp/B074HGPH18

Or surface mount boxes:

https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-2-Port-Surface-Mount-107089/dp/B0069MDB9U/

You could even find a small patch panel.

I would likely use either 2x4 or 2x6 instead of 2x10.

• Drill pilot holes in those braces that you will drive the lag bolts through into the studs
  
  
• Finish the 2x4 or 2x6 you use before mounting it to the wall. When faced with this, I actually used a piece of 1" good quality plywood that I sanded down, routed the edges nicely, primed, and painted before sticking on the wall. Whatever you wind up using, make it look good even if you think you're never going to see it.
  
  
  
• Buy these and install them before hanging the tv on the wall. Read the instructions thoroughly.
  
  
  
• Buy these and stick them into the other things. Read the instructions thoroughly.
  
  
  
• You can get brackets that attach to the back of the tv mount that hide things like cable boxes, set top boxes, etc. We have Google Wifi hubs mounted behind our two wall mounted tv's to free up space on the surfaces the stands one stood on. They make brackets for everything, including generic brackets and even specific ones for like Nvidia Shield Console.
  
  
  
• Check cable length. If snaking cables through the wall, you may need to get longer HDMI cables.
  
  
  
  Some Links
  
  
• http://studs.m88play.com/wall-studs-too-far-apart-for-tv-mount/
  
  
• http://www.displays2go.com/Article/Common-Mistakes-When-Mounting-TV-10
  
  

I used one of these for the super clean look. Pretty easy. Datacomm 50-3323-WH-KIT Flat Panel TV Cable Organizer Kit with Power Solution - White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001PB7UVA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_uj5wCbWKSASAD

To start you need an integrated amplifier. Here's the one recommended in the purchase help thread. This unit will provide power to the speakers so they can play back audio.

Next you need a cable that runs from your phone's headphone jack (assuming it has one) to the amp. Here you go.

Now you need to connect the amp to the speakers. Since you have a sub, you will run speaker cable from the amp to the sub, and then from the sub to each of the speakers. Here's 50 ft of speaker cable which should be more than enough to get the job done. You'll also need a wire stripper tool to remove the casing at each of the cabling, here you go. Would also recommend some banana plugs to make things easier but they aren't required.

This gets you live audio to your speakers. Had you done some research ahead of time you probably would have landed on buying active speakers instead, which would have saved you the need for all of this equipment except the $7 audio cable.

>Hmm.. here are the plugs: Monoprice 24k Gold Plated Speaker Banana Plugs, Closed Screw Type (5 Pairs) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0097JLQVC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_86k8QtboC1QsA

Yup, those are mine as well.


>And here is my wire: C&E 100 Feet 14AWG Enhanced Loud Oxygen-Free Copper Speaker Wire Cable, CNE62761 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009EADB2Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_Sy9NGh8nFOROC

Same type of wire as well just 12AWG(14 is fine though.)

>Do I have to fan it out so it's really spread out ? Like no wires bunched together ?

Exactly. Plus make sure you're threading the 2 parts together gently with your fingers at first then apply more force once you get past the threads to the flat part with the wire. I check them once a month or so to make sure they haven't loosened up which is common for banana plugs. Not a big deal. Just tighten them down and go back to business.

I think those speaker stands you can do better for like 10 bucks more.
Now when it comes to AVR there is better option with really good discount like yours MSRP 300 the one bellow MSRP 550 and only like 40 bucks more with plenty of features and definitely a step up is Yamaha TSR 5810 it's only $209 and much better than that entry level receiver you picked.
Has even Atmos in and all the goodies in case you expand later.

Speaker wire is fine but for neater connection maybe add for 7 bucks banana plugs

Howdy, First, thanks for any help you can offer!
To answer your questions:

1. Yes, the TV works fine. But I will triple check when I get home that it's not secretly connecting to Wifi or something.
   
   
   
2. Yes, it goes straight there. I just installed the wire last week. We were having siding work done on the house and I took advantage of the studs being open from the outside to run the wire. It was just a normal Cat5 cable and I checked that it was working before and after I installed it.
   
   
3. I am not sure what you mean about the wires. Each jack just has a female connector on each side, and the cables plug into each side. This is the sort of thing I am talking about:
   
   https://www.amazon.com/Port-Ethernet-Wall-Plate-ESYLink/dp/B072J2RS43
   

If you are looking to do this yourself you need a combination of the following:

• Drywall knife (Something like Stanley 20-556 6-Inch FatMax Jab Saw https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00005QVQH/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_kw7Ezb2HJYX5K)
  
  
• Cordless Drill (Even a regular corded drill will work)
  
  
• Flexbit for drilling through studs if needed (Something like Eagle Tool US EA37518 Auger Style Flex Installer Bit for Wood, 3/16" Shank Diameter, 3/8" Head Diameter x 18" Length https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MTFTORA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_5x7Ezb81XWXP0)
  
  
• Glowrods (Something like 33' Electric Fiberglass Wire Pull Rods Fish Tape https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005LW4CFG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_pz7Ezb7YCC3GD)
  
  
• Stud finder if you don't know how to knock on the wall to find the studs
  
  
• Wire pass through vanity plates (
  DataComm 45-0001-WH 1-Gang Recessed Low Voltage Cable Plate (White) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00193U3O0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_VF7EzbAP6DKCZ)
  
  
• Tension bracket for drywall so you can mount the plates (Low Voltage Bracket Single Gang https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003ZWJGGE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_PH7EzbM4KHX9H)
  
  
  If you are just going to mount the monitors right in front of your desk and don't need to go sideways like OP then you can just cut the drywall where you are going to mount the monitors and then go down to where your exit point will be and cut there and drop your wires through.
  
  If you need to do some fancy stuff - Ideally you would want to see if where all your studs were, measure the distance you'll need to bore through studs and then get glow rods and flex bits with sufficient length to do the job. Also your flex bit will need to be a big enough diameter to fit your cables through. Flex bits are super easy to work with.
  
  Hope this helps!
  
  

sure! here it is: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JJ57CR6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


essentially what you're doing is using rome's, which is what is most likely powering all of the outlets in a modern home anyway. It is designed to be in thew all. This kit lets you add power to your new "outlet" by just plugging it into another working outlet, so what you end up with is a fancy, clean, legal extension cord in the wall that won't burn your house down. It is pretty slick if it meets your needs, there are several slightly different versions. Please look into your local safety codes etc. I'm just a stranger on the internet after all.

I used a pass through wall plate (I think it's called?). They come in different colours, but here is an example on amazon.com...
https://www.amazon.com/DataComm-45-0001-WH-1-Gang-Recessed-Voltage/dp/B00193U3O0/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1492543914&sr=8-2&keywords=pass+through+wall+plate

Hope that helps Mantis4g63 :)

FYI: Low voltage not required to be in conduit in Chicago. A friend of mine is an electrician in Chicago. Rest of electrical needs conduit that is true.
I have run coax cable, Ethernet, speaker wire and phone lines in my house through walls without conduit. Just make sure the wire you use is riser rated if passing from floor to floor or In-wall rated if keeping on same floor. Plenum rated if running via heavy ducts/returns. I have generally used riser rated for all my in-wall applications.
Don’t run an electrical cord from a tv or extension cord in the wall. You always use something like this: Datacomm Electronics 50-3323-WH-KIT Flat Panel TV Cable Organizer Kit with Power Solution - White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001PB7UVA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_wGA7CbQG8K63V

Get some banana plugs from Best buy. Easy to put the wire in them. Then just plug the banana cables into those holes. I got these. Work great! http://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-109436-Copper-Speaker-Banana/dp/B0097JLQVC/ref=sr_1_4?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1462989207&sr=1-4&keywords=banana+plugs

I'll be honest, I haven't had time to really do an A/B test on them, and my schedule hasn't afforded me a lengthy listening session, but I am much more confident in these new cables.

I had previously been using this wire! with these banana plugs. They did the job, and I will continue to use those cables when testing equipment for functionality or if I do a temporary setup for a friend or something.

The new wire is 12 AWG single-conductor. I had considered doing 14 AWG dual-conductor (honestly just for looks), but I decided to go with the cheaper option. I may upload some pics at a later date as my setup has changed and moved around quite a bit since my first setup post.

Feeding a power cord through the wall like that is likely an electrical code violation (US code for sure, but depends on the country). You would need to add another outlet behind the TV (extend the bottom outlet) which is the best long term solution, or you could pick up a kit like this. But this kinda looks like an apartment, so that would kinda make these suggestions useless.

I'm assuming, based on your other responses (and because you haven't specified) that you're hooking this up to a computer exclusively, and that you have limited desk space (meaning that standard bookshelf speakers won't fit). Also, I'm going to assume that you don't have SPDIF or optical connections, since you haven't said that you do.

My suggestion, then, would be:

• Micca MB42X, $80 on Amazon
  
• Nobsound Mini Bluetooth Power Amplifier, $31 on Amazon
  
• AmazonBasics Speaker Wire, $9 on Amazon
  
  At their price and size, the Miccas are great speakers.
  
  The Nobsound was reviewed by Zeos a while back, and he was pleasantly surprised. Note that you can attach the amp to your computer using USB, the 3.5mm jack, or bluetooth.
  
  The speaker wire is there just to remind you to factor that into your cost. You may already have some laying around, or you can probably find some cheaper than that, or in shorter lengths.
  
  Optional:
  
  
• The Nobsound comes with a 12v 5a (12×5=60W) power supply. So you're limited to ~25-30 watts per channel. This is more than enough for desk setups and small rooms, especially given the relatively efficient Micca speakers. But if you find yourself wanting more power, you can upgrade the power supply for around $15-$20.
  
• Banana plugs make hooking up speakers a whole lot easier. Monoprice banana plugs are $10 on Amazon. The only thing to pay attention to here is that most banana plugs will only accept 12 gauge to 16 gauge speaker wire.
  
• Subwoofer. Neither your Logitech speakers nor the Miccas really do low end (under 60 Hz). This enters an entirely separate discussion about price, performance, and what you want out of your setup, though. I will say, though, that with the Nobsound amplifier, you'll need a sub with high-level (speaker wire) passthroughs.

Really cool looking setup. Just want to point out a few things.

1. The power cord for the monitors is not rated for in-wall use and is against code. You should get one of these.
   
   
2. You're putting a lot of stress on the glass with that clamp holding up four monitors. It may look thick and secure, but it will shatter on you one day and break all four monitors when they fall down. Get a thin piece of wood and run it underneath your table along the back edge. Secure the clamp onto that piece of wood rather than directly against the glass. Home Depot, or any other home improvement store, will have really good looking appearance boards. Get a 1x4 cut to the length of the table right at the store and attach it to the bottom of the glass using contact cement. The clamp will keep it in place and distribute the load much more evenly.

It’s one of those outlet relocation and cable pass through things you can buy at a hardware store to run cables in the wall for a mounted TV. People who are afraid of adding an outlet will use this to safely/legally (within code) run power from the TV. You would connect an extension cord to the prongs on the wall and plug it into an outlet. AV cables pass through on the right.

Edit: like this product: Datacomm 50-3323-WH-KIT Flat Panel TV Cable Organizer Kit with Power Solution - White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001PB7UVA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_i0EACbK9RRKXQ


Honestly, I don’t understand why folks just don’t add an outlet up high above an existing one. It’s cheaper, cleaner, and just as easy to install as one of these things.

I plugged in the price of eSun White PETG ($25) into Slic3r and re-sliced two wall plates. It says $1.10. So that's $0.55/wall plate.

Amazon is currently selling a 2-pack of white keystone wall plates from Monoprice for $5.48 ($2.74/wall plate):

https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-106725-Plate-Keystone-White/

That's Monoprice though. If you need more than 2 you can get a 10-pack from Cable Matters for $9.99 (~$1/wall plate):

https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Plate-2-Port-Keystone/dp/B0072JVU8S/

Even with the best deal it's still like half price! I honestly wasn't really concerned with the price (GOOGLY EYES!) but it's good to know it's cheaper.

> Are wires supposed to run up to the TV from the thing lower down?

Yes
>Should I put in a piece of plastic pipe to make an easy conduit up to the tv now, while I can still get behind there easily?

No need for that.

>What is that wire up top?

As others have said, it looks like speaker wire. Probably don't need it.

I would get one of these for the top orange box., and replace the "speaker" cable with a 10' or 12' cat 5e cable. Plug the cable into the port at the bottom, run it through the wall, and plug it into the TV.

Are you getting all your source material from the network? Do you plan on having cable? Antenna? Xbox? Anything else on this TV? While you're at it, you might want to run some HDMI cables and a COAX cable along with your network cable.

They make kits that let you plug an existing outlet into a wall outlet, and it is then wired to the new outlet behind the TV. It is the easiest solution for your case where you can use the existing wires to pull the new wire into place.
sample on amazon

They make them in the rectangular style too to match the hole you already have in the drywall on the bottom. Here's one

Personally I'd try to run power to the new outlet behind the TV completely inside the walls to avoid having one outlet plugged into the other in such a visible spot - but if you just want it done quick and easy something like what I linked will work.

Something like this?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001PB7UVA/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

There are a lot of variations of this thing out there.

I don't have experience installing - we almost went this route, then decided a large enough media console would look better and be more practical than an on- or in-wall solution. But, it's very well rated.

Ok, I tried plugging my router in and it didn't work. The light for that particular Ethernet port remained off on both the router end and the modem end. And DHCP didn't managed to get an address. (I removed all the shorts beforehand.)

Next I'll try removing the whole Leviton jack and terminate it with a male T568B. Then plugging in my router and see if it works. If it works then I'll just use one of these female-to-female wall plates: https://www.amazon.com/Port-Ethernet-Wall-Plate-ESYLink/dp/B072J2RS43

You're a real lifesaver, man. Thanks!

The first two look fine but you don't want an ethernet patch cable, you want a box of cable like - https://www.amazon.com/NavePoint-Ethernet-550MHz-Unshielded-Twisted/dp/B072FR26V6. This way you can pull out at much or as little cable as you need, and it's solid wire (vs. patch cables which use stranded wiring) which is better suited for fishing through spaces and terminating the ends.

If you've never done it before, with a bag of ends and some Youtube videos you should be able to get decent results after a few attempts.

Depending on where the cable is going, sometimes it's cleaner to have it terminate to a wall drop, in which case you'd use a keystone jack and a face plate

https://www.amazon.com/TRENDnet-Cat6-Keystone-Jack-Termination/dp/B07KM75W67/

https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-10-Pack-Profile-Keystone/dp/B074HHDJWT/

If you can't get the cable through a wall, you may do a keystone in a surface mount box (https://www.amazon.com/Listed-Cable-Matters-Keystone-Surface/dp/B01J6JP6HC). Then use a regular patch cable to connect the AP the surface mount.

Lots of ways to get it done, just depends on your layout/desired results.

How do I know what gauge to get? I this sufficient Wire, Bananas and Wire Cutters. I think I will skip the DAC for now and see how everything sounds? As I can always buy one later and add it in but how do I know if I need one?
Edit: Thank you for the help!

its pretty common to run everything through the wall except for power. installing a new outlet is extremely simple and you should have no issues with that. as for the other cables I would recommend getting a nice faceplate to neaten it up a bit. Such as these:

http://www.amazon.com/Petra-PET0493-Single-Coaxial-Connector/dp/B0014KOI6M/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1370666032&sr=8-9&keywords=TV+faceplates+for+wires

http://www.amazon.com/Vanco-120614X-Custom-Two-Piece-Single/dp/B001702I16/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1370666032&sr=8-1&keywords=TV+faceplates+for+wires

Fyi man, that’s a pretty major fire hazard if your cables are just loosely running through your walls. They sell special kits that allow this sort of routing though, give them some thought!

Echogear in Wall Power Kit Includes Low Voltage Cable Management - Hide TV Wires When Mounting A TV - Includes Hole Saw Drill Attachment for Easy Install https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B07H9C1176/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_cJKgDb8YRMS0Y

Speaker wire for the speakers, digital coaxial or subwoofer cables for the sub.

It looks like binding posts for banana plugs for the speaker connections on the wall plate.

Amazon and monoprice are good places for speaker wire as well.

Banana plugs -5 pairs

Subwoofer Cable -8ft. There are plenty out there for cheap. Just search subwoofer cable.

50ft 14 GA speakerwire. The speaker wire connects to the bananaplugs.

Amazing work man!

If you own your own place (or don't care about large holes in the wall) might I suggest one of these.

Really makes a huge difference in how clean something looks.

Most ethernet networks have range of 100m without requiring a repeater or switch. That's a LONG WAY and almost certainly further than the location of your hub from your room.

Here is a really long ethernet cable for $30. I'd recommend actually measuring the distance and planning it with your parents.

In my house I ran cables from the attic down into the walls by the hub and in each room. You can either have the cables stick right out of the wall, or if you want to be nicer about it, cut open the cable and wire them into a wall plate, patching them into your PC with a short cable. Here is a howto video. In the video he has a cable TV jack right next to it, and if you have something like that you don't even need to cut a new hole in the wall; you can just use a dual plate like this one.

Didn’t know they. Thanks for the heads up. I’ll check the link out too.

So this Would be a better option?

Echogear in Wall Power Kit Includes Low Voltage Cable Management - Hide TV Wires When Mounting A TV - Includes Hole Saw Drill Attachment for Easy Install https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B07H9C1176/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_CZBDCbPY3ZDG8

If you own, I’d order one of the in wall kits from Amazon. They’re super easy to install and they make it look so much nicer!

Plug them all into a Pass through patch panel. Label it one for one with the labels on the cables. Should be pretty enough and functional. Then use patch cables and a nice 2u cable manager. Be nice of you to put some j-hooks on those shit studs about 2ft up and separated the cables from the power that its probably running on top of.

Heres a parts list.

Patch Panel

2u Cable Manager

J-Hooks

Patch Cables

Wall Rack Enclosure

Okay I bought one of these below. So I should buy one more, correct?
https://www.amazon.ca/Monoprice-109436-Plated-Speaker-Banana/dp/B0097JLQVC/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=banana+plugs+monoprice&qid=1558463443&s=gateway&sr=8-4

Also, Should I get a crimping tool for the wires? Never done this before so need some help.

Thank you.

Came here to say this. Something like this is super easy and it's $50. I guess 80% of the budget went to the chair. :p

FYI: Don't run the power cable through the wall unless you want to possibly invalidate your homeowners insurance. Make sure you get something like this.

You need speaker wire. Unless you need very long lengths 16 gauge wire is good enough.

https://www.amazon.com/Performance-Gauge-Speaker-Oxygen-Copper/dp/B01N6EF3GZ

And a wire cutter for a clean job:

https://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-3797-7-Inch-Stripper-Cutter/dp/B00AZWWY2K

You can also buy banana plugs to install at the tips. Once you do this you never have to waste time inserting bare wire carefully into the posts.

https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-109436-Plated-Speaker-Banana/dp/B0097JLQVC/ref=pd_aw_fbt_23_img_2/143-4216225-4180333?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B0097JLQVC&pd_rd_r=9abe4956-cd3f-4392-835d-422b349f4f55&pd_rd_w=w5ces&pd_rd_wg=578Lx&pf_rd_p=6e6afc8a-fbbd-4649-97cf-4e08f5113612&pf_rd_r=ZXGYDM5KD6H0FC4Z4S8M&psc=1&refRID=ZXGYDM5KD6H0FC4Z4S8M

I'm not sure how much a place would charge for this. If you feel capable of running a line inside the wall you could do it yourself. You would need:

The wall jacks. Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Dual-Ethernet-Jacks-Keystone-Plate/dp/B000X0UJSU

A punchdown tool, like this: https://www.amazon.com/InstallerParts-Adjustable-Impact-Punch-Blade/dp/B008NXK3GC/

Then you get like 100ft cable or however long you need, fish it through the wall, plug one end in the router, and cut off the other end and punch it down into the jack.

edit: there are some photos on this guys walkthrough: https://www.handymanhowto.com/how-to-install-an-ethernet-jack-for-a-home-network/

I used something like this.
It might not have enough outlets for OP, but he might be able to use something like this or this at the top part.

I have been looking at some wall mounting possibilities as well for my dot. I dont have a plug in a good place for power so I am thinking about something like this to route the cable to a power source.

Installed Legrand - ONQ / HT2102WHV1 Flat-Panel in-Wall Cable Management Connection Kit for Flat-Panel TV Installation https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003JUBMCI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_fcT2CbCQ52FFT

With an USB outlet https://www.lowes.com/pd/Eaton-White-15-Amp-Decorator-Outlet-USB-Residential/50029064

The case is Anti-Theft Tablet Security Case Holder - Metal Heavy Duty Vesa Wall Mount Tablet Kiosk, Mounts on Surface, Landscape/Portrait Mounting, Designed for iPad 2, 3, 4, Air, Air 2 Tablets - Pyle PSPADLKW06 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BH8TW7K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_ScT2CbDE70519.

Overall happy with everything. The case isn't the best cosmetically, but functionality is good.

Amazon prime! 2 day free shipping as well

edit: http://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-109437-High-Quality-Speaker-Banana/dp/B0097JLRFM?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00

I'd find a way to conceal the wire and go wired anyways. Wireless is good for phones and that's about it. They make kits to create an in wall conduit to run cables along with power.

[See here](Datacomm 50-3323-WH-KIT Flat Panel TV Cable Organizer Kit with Power Solution - White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001PB7UVA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_h4cQBb2KZ5705)

Okay so heres my new plans for the design:

250FT Stranded UTP Cat6 - $45

Cat6 Connectors for UTP Stranded - $11

12 Port Vertical Mini Patch Panel for Cat6 - $20

8 Port Gigabit Ethernet Switch - $29

10 Pack Wall Plate 2-Port Keystone Jack - $10

10 Pack Keystone Jack Cat6 - $14

Total: $129, but previously $131 (100ft cat6 + connectors + wall jacks) and this does much more. Would that be good?

Came here to say that, cable channels are da bomb, next level up is these things if you are allowed. Easy to install, run the cables down behind the wall and out the other side, totally hidden. Really nice clean look

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001PB7UVA/

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075343YSZ/

Also, I totally lol'd at "speel"

I did something similar in the house I recently bought. My house wasn't cable ready. I used gem boxes in the walls to make it simple and clean. After I cut the drywall for the gem box, I used a 1/2" paddle bit with and extension to drill through the floor inside the wall. My home is ranch style with a basement so this made the job very easy.

Here is what a gem box is. http://www.savvy-discounts.com/home_repair_hardware/electric_boxes_gem_box.htm

You simply put the face of the box against the wall, trace around it with a pencil,cut the drywall and use Madison clips to fasten it inside the wall. After you pull the cable, you can get a trim cover like this. http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000X0UJSU?cache=96dc013fd43c8879407c7f1d8064f7e2#ref=sr_sp-btf_title_1_14&qid=1393720009&sr=1-14

Hide them cables! These are easy to install on internal walls. Can be found in most home improvement stores.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00193U3O0/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_dp_ss_1?pf_rd_p=1944687642&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B00379L0AU&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=1J0DC3AVDDEKKEMKXV3Q

You'll need a long Ethernet cable. Run it all the way upstairs.

You can get fancy and run it through the walls, and then install Ethernet jacks in your walls--something like this, but with a single port if you prefer.

In other words:

Upstairs desktop ---- CAT5 cable ------ Ethernet wall jack upstairs ----- CAT5 cable terminated at (attached to the back of) the upstairs wall jack going through walls from upstairs to downstairs, then terminated at downstairs wall jack ------ CAT5 cable terminated at downstairs wall jack ----- Downstairs Ethernet wall jack ------ CAT5 cable ------ modem.

EDIT: Per what /u/tsdguy pointed out, use CAT5e or better, not just CAT5. CAT5 is not rated for anything higher than 100 Mbps. CAT5e can handle 1 Gbps up to 100 Meters.

This https://www.amazon.com/Yamaha-RX-V383BL-5-1-Channel-Receiver-Bluetooth/dp/B06XXR6JK3/ref=dp_ob_title_ce

with this cable https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-1-Male-2-Female-RCA-Y-Adapter/dp/B01D5H8RE0/ref=sr_1_4?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1499935753&sr=1-4&keywords=dual+subwoofer+adapter plug the purple end into the sub out on the receiver then run a left rca to one subwoofer and a right rca to the other(into the sub-in on the Pl-200). Run an hdmi from your Amazon Fire TV to an hdmi input on the receiver and then an hdmi out from the receiver to your tv. If you don't already have speaker wire I recommend https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HZWYP1G/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 and if you want banana plugs these are good https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-Plated-Speaker-Banana-Closed/dp/B0097JLQVC/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1499936973&sr=1-1-spons&keywords=4+pairs+banana+plugs&psc=1

I'm running from my LP-120 to my preamp into the receiver. Then the speakers into the receiver.

My main problem is where the wire goes. Do I put the wire directly into the the red/black terminals and then screw those down? Or do I need something like this to put the wire in before I plug it into the speaker/receiver?

Sorry for all the questions, I just want to get it right. Thanks for your help so far.

Just as an example, these are a type of banana plugs you can buy on Amazon. You can buy cheaper plastic plugs for sure, but I think for a radio of this build calibre, gold plated plugs would look the part. As /u/VE6LK mentioned, you would cut off the plug from the crystal earpiece and wire banana plug to each of the wires from the earpiece.

Alternatively, if you really are uncomfortable with stripping and connecting wires, you might look at an adapter like this one on Amazon. The only problem that may surface is that this adapter uses the standard spacing of 3/4 inch between the plugs, so you need to make sure that your father's radio is at the same spacing. You would also need a 1/4 inch to 1/8 inch reducer for this adapter to reduce it down to the size of your crystal earpiece plug.

I'm still looking for a better option for the pre-made cable - If I find something better I'll edit this comment.

Buy this kit or similar (They have similar kits at Home depot and Sams Club) and you do not have to splice into the existing wiring of your house. You should only let a licensed electrician, handyman or someone with basic electrical skills tap into your current electrical system.

I hope that helps.

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JJ57CR6/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_dp_ss_2?pf_rd_p=1944687622&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B00B7C07HG&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=096KPGAJWBNDN33R18VN

Mounted this under the desk for power to stay off the floor, and then they run from the PC through the wall to the monitor.

Great idea about drilling the hole...

https://www.amazon.com/Opentron-OT4126-Metal-Protector-Outlet/dp/B00O8NVPBI/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1527186399&sr=1-1-spons&keywords=industrial+power+strip&psc=1


https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00193U3O0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

If you're literally just running through one wall from one side to the other just run the cable directly through the wall. If you want to hide the hole then get a pair of the media plates used for TV's like these:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FQP5Y9Z/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_taa_EHYuDbVC2FJRM
Or
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079N2YHTG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_taa_5IYuDbTMGMTQM

Then run how ever many cables you want. Otherwise you'd literally have a 3" patch between one side of the wall and the other.

Honestly I'd run one cat6 cable to the switch you linked to and connect everything to that. It's unlikely you'll be using more than one or two devices at the same time, and it's also unlikely your internet is fast enough to keep up with the gigabit link anyway.

Ignore if you rent, or if you have lath and plaster walls (approx. 65+ yr old homes are in the pre-drywall era).

If i were me I'd run flexible conduit (a tube for wires) or just bare wires along with a kit like this behind the drywall to hide your current ones plus make future upgrades easy to hide, too. Here's a kit so you see what I mean.

Yes, it's a hassle to mess with drywall and potentially drill through a 2x4 or two that's in your way, but it's aesthetically pleasing if you don't otherwise conceal the wiring by modifying your layout as others have suggested.

Here's an overly comlex step-by-step so you can pick your strategy so you can pick the applicable parts.

Fwiw I have lath and plaster in my living room so I didn't bother wall-mounting my TV. Placing it on a quality stand avoids those hassles.

How does it work? I was under the impression that I could hook up the speakers to my AI usingsome of these through the L-R line out and the jobs a good?

Absolutely, there is always that option. But as fickle as I am about my setup, I wasn't putting a hole in the wall only to want to change the desk layout or something of that nature. I actually have this done with my tv and consoles, I have essentially floated the tv like seen here. But something like this is a for more affordable alternative.

Thanks for responding, but I was looking for something that allowed access to the speaker wires (need the wires to go to the wall to the amp). I think I have found what I need, something like this: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001C4BEOY/

How would "critters" get into the wall in the first place is more the issue you should be concerned about lol. The issue here should be there are "critters" in the house in the first place that can get into/out of your wall cavities.

In regards to drafts interior walls should not have any cold air in there. Exterior walls should be fitting with insulation so there should be no appreciable drafting. Most of the better kits to hide the wires behind the wall come with draft blockers for the holes as well.

I've never had any draft issues at all. TV is installed on an interior wall with this kit:

http://www.amazon.com/Legrand-HT2102WHV1-Flat-Panel-Connection/dp/B003JUBMCI/ref=sr_1_10?ie=UTF8&qid=1453132673&sr=8-10&keywords=in+wall+tv+wiring

Those look like 2mm straight plugs to me, not bannana plugs, which are:
http://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-109436-High-Quality-Copper-Speaker/dp/B0097JLQVC

Banana plugs have spring fittings on them. Electrode plugs don't. Easy mistake to make.

All the carbon, Amrex and TENS electrodes I have seen use straight plugs.

I just did a quick and dirty install of wired internet. I didn't really have a great option for a central location to set up my modem and router. What I ended up doing was keeping my router and modem in a bedroom I use as a home office.

I took each wall outlet for my coaxial cable and replaced them with ethernet/coax combo outlets to keep from needing to add extra outlet covers/boxes in the walls. The exception was at my router. I used a 4-port outlet like this in that room.

From there, I used my attic (and the help of my brother-in-law) to fish the ethernet cables down the walls in each room I wanted to wire (living room, master bedroom, guest bedroom), then each of those to the home office to connect to the 4-port outlet. Once I connected the outlets in each room, I labeled the ports in the office for convenience and plugged cables into the router for each room.

As far as the hardware, I have a Motorola DOCSIS 3.0 cable modem since I'm currently stuck with Comcast. I use a Netgear router with a USB port for connecting a hard drive.

My primary reason for setting all this up was to be able to access the full bandwidth of my internet connection and not need to be concerned with any wireless interference (granted, I probably wouldn't notice where I live). I also like the idea of minimal buffering with my home media server setup to multiple devices. I have a couple of gaming consoles and a PC all wired and I enjoy not dealing with wireless except on tablets, phones, or laptops.

I used this 2 years ago worked out great. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001PB7UVA/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Hey, so there are a few ways you can do that. If you already have a laptop, let's say a MacBook pro, you can use ROON connected to a streamer (such as the node 2i). YOu can then use something like Apple TV to screen share your MBP screen on the TV.

​

Regarding the TV.. I have it the wires running behind the wall using this..

https://www.amazon.com/Echogear-Power-Voltage-Cable-Management/dp/B07H9C1176/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?gclid=CjwKCAjw3c_tBRA4EiwAICs8Cr_unPDfFSTElHBlznJWpbfmLxN6Z1zHTAjONgHcKgozXZlceAg4ehoCCPEQAvD_BwE&hvadid=233518986929&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=9004358&hvnetw=g&hvpos=1t1&hvqmt=b&hvrand=7473189041772216981&hvtargid=aud-649564993678%3Akwd-26548716883&hydadcr=18887_10145554&keywords=in-wall+power+kit&qid=1572114371&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEyRkhSUU05WjJTVE8xJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwNzczNjAxRklZUVhHWU5JOVBaJmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTA4MTY5ODY4WVBZRVJDT1VMNkcmd2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGYmYWN0aW9uPWNsaWNrUmVkaXJlY3QmZG9Ob3RMb2dDbGljaz10cnVl

Standard Stripped Speaker Wire. You could probably add some banana's if you want it pretty.

The owner's manual can be downloaded as a pdf from Denon's website. I'd do that to start.

You'll want an audio cable to connect the CD changer:

https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B016QVZF06/

Speaker wire (recommended in the thread post):

https://smile.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-16-Gauge-Speaker-Wire-Feet/dp/B006LW0W5Y

And maybe banana plugs to connect the speaker wires. They aren't required but they make connecting stuff a lot easier:

https://smile.amazon.com/Monoprice-109436-Plated-Speaker-Banana/dp/B0097JLQVC/

Are you hooking up any other equipment?

If you are allowed to drill holes (I see the TV is mounted), you really should do something like this:


Datacomm Electronics 50-3323-WH-KIT Flat Panel TV Cable Organizer Kit with Power Solution - White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001PB7UVA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_rJ6mDb8BN2EDM

For the op, if you want to do this, get a punch saw, a couple low voltage mounts, and some cable pass through plates:
https://www.amazon.com/KCC-Industries-Recessed-Voltage-Mounting/dp/B07FQP5Y9Z

https://www.amazon.com/Stanley-15-556-Jab-Cushion-Grip/dp/B00002X21W

Trace the front (the wide part) of the low voltage mount on the wall, use the punch saw to cut about a quarter inch inside the trace and then screw in the mount. Put one mount behind the pc (won't need the pass through plate that way) and the other about 5 inches above your trim (or match other outlets). Make sure both are on the same side of the closest stud.

As long as you don't have fire blocks, it should be pretty easy. If you do, I'd say just get some of these https://www.amazon.com/Upgrade-Version-Cable-Management-Channel/dp/B07BLQPVFD unless you want to deal with plastering and drilling holes and stuff. Not worth it, imo.

Unless, of course, you're in an apartment and aren't allowed to mutilate your walls.

Another use posted this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001PB7UVA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_xyQHybSRV0P6H

I haven't looked to see if it is in accordance with the national electric code, but if it is, it would make the job a lot easier

cat5 is cat5, if you work in tech it's the exact same termination as a regular network. J hooks just screw into support beams, or roof, you hang cable on them. It's seriously easy, The only thing you'll have to remember is to either purchase a POE switch, to provide power to the POE camera's, or purchase POE injectors to send power down the cat5 cable

https://www.amazon.com/ICC-ICCMSJHK33-PACK-J-HOOK-16in/dp/B005EIFWKG/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1474644301&sr=8-5&keywords=j+hook

Just run a long wire through the wall. From computer to monitor. You can use wall plates like this https://www.amazon.com/Listed-VCE-2-Pack-Single-Brush/dp/B071X8RLJL/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1536469420&sr=1-3&keywords=pass+through+wall+plate&dpID=412EFMUa-uL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

https://www.amazon.com/DataComm-45-0001-WH-1-Gang-Recessed-Voltage/dp/B001C4BEOY/ref=sr_1_4?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1536469420&sr=1-4&keywords=pass%2Bthrough%2Bwall%2Bplate&th=1

​

​

for example: https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-16-Gauge-Speaker-Wire-Feet/dp/B006LW0W5Y/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1550053284&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=speaker+wire&dpPl=1&dpID=51nHodxMogL&ref=plSrch

you usually clamp them underneath those red/black caps. however, i’m seeing holes there so with some extra effort you could use these too.

https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-109436-Plated-Speaker-Banana/dp/B0097JLQVC/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1550053390&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=speaker+wire+banana+plug&dpPl=1&dpID=41FhV2Rcd6L&ref=plSrch

you clamp the cable into these plugs and then plug them into your speaker. looks very nice imo

You could also buy a longer cord, route the cord horizontally to the door frame and the down along it and then back over to the outlet. You could also buy a kit that would allow you to do the cable through the wall. Like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001PB7UVA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_kdJ2CbBYR4D6W

So you can see the row or red and black connectors on the back of the receiver, those are labeled for the available speaker locations. Standard speaker wire can be used on those as it kinda threads through then screws down tight (banana plug connectors can also be used if purchased). The backs of the speakers have a matching red and black connection that the wire screws into as well. So each speaker will have one red and one black connection.

In my case with this specific setup I am using the amplifier in a bi-amp configuration where I am utilizing the 'Front A' connections for left and right as well as the 'bi-amp' connections. The Klipsch speakers have 2 red and 2 black plugs on the back of them for this purpose. When Bi-amp'ed the speakers are able to use the extra power that another channel may use to give more clarity and over volume.

You can't tell but I'm using Echogear's cable and power management. It works like the product you linked, but the Echogear one has a smaller footprint.

https://www.amazon.com/Echogear-Power-Voltage-Cable-Management/dp/B07H9C1176/

This is what pretty much everyone uses for TV mounts.

https://www.amazon.com/Legrand-Q-HT2102WHV1-Management-Connection/dp/B003JUBMCI

Help:

For the Infinity R253s (2x), I need 8 banana plugs (2x of this item). Also 14G wire in your link, according to Crutchfield since these are 6ohm speakers?

No, generic is fine and I doubt they come with wire.

http://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-16-Gauge-Speaker-Wire-Feet/dp/B006LW0WDQ/ref=pd_sim_23_2?ie=UTF8&dpID=51IOxbn5fgL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR150%2C160_&refRID=1K56846XM9J6X17Y4N42

Banana Plugs are just an easier way to plug the speaker wire into the amp and speakers - making everything nice.

http://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-109436-Copper-Speaker-Banana/dp/B0097JLQVC/ref=pd_sim_23_1?ie=UTF8&dpID=41QxY56AvVL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=1K56846XM9J6X17Y4N42

Yes you can do this , heres a cat 6 one:

https://www.amazon.com/Ethernet-Plate-ESYLink-Cable-Female/dp/B076GLSN5J/ref=sr_1_25?keywords=ethernet+pass+thru+wall+plates&qid=1573232225&s=electronics&sr=1-25

​

<---ethernet cable---> Wallplate with ethernet passthru coupler <----ethernet cable---> Wallplate with ethernet passthru cable <-------> ethernet cable

They are all ran through the wall. I bought a kit to run the cable behind the TV stand to behind the tv. It is a certified power in wall kit from amazon. Datacomm 50-3323-WH-KIT Flat Panel TV Cable Organizer Kit with Power Solution - White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001PB7UVA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_62BDAb3KFC6R8. It’s a 25’ HDMI Cable from my computer to the TV and 15 footers for the stuff directly under it.

Yes. To go with it, you will want

• A wall plate: https://www.amazon.com/Listed-Cable-Matters-2-Port-Keystone/dp/B0072JVU8S/ref=sr_1_14
  
  
• Coax jack: https://www.amazon.com/VCE-Gold-Plated-Keystone-keystone-Connectors/dp/B06XKPKZ3J/ref=sr_1_6
  
  
• Ethernet jack: https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-10-Pack-Punch-Down-Keystone/dp/B00IO3HEN6/ref=sr_1_4
  

studs are always spaced 16" or 24" apart unless the framer was evil. this means you should be able to find one stud to mount the TV. if you can get 2, all the better - it'll be rock solid. if only one, then use screw-type or toggle anchors. they'll be plenty strong.

i prefer the TV mounts you can angle down like this one so you get a better viewing angle from the couch. every TV mount i've purchased comes with all the mounting hardware, including lag bolts. if you're feeling extra handy, hide the wires using a kit like this.

You might have some code issues if you are planning on running your tv's power cable behind the wall. If you are just doing a/v stuff what you posted is fine.

If you don't have a power receptacle already behind your TV, and you don't want to pay an electrician, these types of products work well. http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00JJ57CR6/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?qid=1420652387&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SX200_QL40

When I wall mounted my TV, I used one of these recessed wall plate to pass the power and HDMI cable through the wall to the TV:

https://www.amazon.com/DataComm-45-0001-WH-1-Gang-Recessed-Voltage/dp/B00193U3O0/

The cables can be positioned at any angle, so they don't stick out at far. Actually, if you look at a female HDMI wall plate, the cable is sticking out straight out of the wall and harder to hide behind a mounted TV.

Honestly, I don't see the benefit of a HDMI wall plate over a cable passthrough plate. Either way, you have a HDMI cable and power cable running from the wall to the TV. One isn't "cleaner" than the other.

If you want a power outlet instead of just the cord for some reason, this is also an option:

https://www.amazon.com/Datacomm-45-0031-WH-Recessed-Voltage-Receptacle/dp/B004GZ89N0/

http://www.amazon.com/Cat5e-Ethernet-Cable-500ft-Cat-5e/dp/B0092THNDW and 2x http://www.amazon.com/RCA-RJ45-Wall-Plate-TPH552R/dp/B00111AAZ2/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1425365235&sr=1-1 works better. I ran mine through the attic back when 802.11b was the standard, and haven't needed to upgrade it since.

Here's an easy way to run those wires in wall.

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B001702I16

OP from your comment sounds like you could use an old PC power supply since it puts out 12V, 5V and 3.3V.

Power supply ATX pinout board with fuses

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078XD1652/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_27GRCb4QZRJK6

TRS adapter

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N4N9MMZ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_x.GRCbA7GT44F

Banana tip

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0097JLRFM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_ecHRCb108B23B

DC socket

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079R9WCG2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_OdHRCbHH53TTS


On the ATX board just make sure to put some low amp fuses like 2 amps. Solder, Shrink wrap and LABEL to avoid plugging 12V into a mixing board.

EDIT: you could accomplish the same task much cheaper but using the 4 items listed above you would not have to modify the snake at all.

what? doesn't the walljack look like this on both ends of that run?

For those who are handy and with products like these, it could be simple and without an electrician:

https://www.amazon.com/PowerBridge-Recessed-Management-PowerConnect-Wall-Mounted/dp/B00GWGZKF6

https://www.amazon.com/Datacomm-50-3323-WH-KIT-Panel-Organizer-Solution/dp/B001PB7UVA/ref=pd_day0_hl_23_1?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B001PB7UVA&pd_rd_r=042b86e4-f3e2-11e8-acef-0dacba850be4&pd_rd_w=8CeM6&pd_rd_wg=6inpi&pf_rd_i=desktop-dp-sims&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=ad07871c-e646-4161-82c7-5ed0d4c85b07&pf_rd_r=4G8V7RY52GNZJ6D0JTMB&pf_rd_s=desktop-dp-sims&pf_rd_t=40701&psc=1&refRID=4G8V7RY52GNZJ6D0JTMB

​

I vote for OPTION 2. Seems like you get more for your money with the sub. You could trim a bit off these totals by going with less expensive cables. 14-Gauge, 99.9% Oxygen-Free Copper + Banana Plugs = $37.72

🤪 you run wire in from the end.......

these?

https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-5PRJX74047-Plated-Speaker-Banana/dp/B0097JLRFM/r

unscrew the bottom part , put wire thu bottom piece, fan out and fold the wire strands downwards around it, screw back together, wire strands are caught between the 2 pieces ......

watch this:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7H5fhtF9sEk

Do you own? I ran cables into a wall plate like this. Then down through the crawlspace (though attic would work too depending on the level of home) and out a similar outlet in another room.

Probably not something to do if renting though..

Hmm.. here are the plugs: Monoprice 24k Gold Plated Speaker Banana Plugs, Closed Screw Type (5 Pairs) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0097JLQVC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_86k8QtboC1QsA


And here is my wire: C&E 100 Feet 14AWG Enhanced Loud Oxygen-Free Copper Speaker Wire Cable, CNE62761 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009EADB2Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_Sy9NGh8nFOROC

Do I have to fan it out so it's really spread out ? Like no wires bunched together ?

It’s easier than you think.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07H9C1176/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_bVSJDbFHP884W

I’m not sure why you or OP might think external cord concealment would be faster or easier. The in-wall channel takes less than 10 minutes to complete.

External cable concealment does not blend in. Its a plastic channel you’ve painted to match the wall but, it’s still a plastic channel mounted in the wall.

Edit:
OP, look at this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FQP5Y9Z/ref=sspa_dk_detail_1?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B07FQP5Y9Z&pd_rd_w=njPne&pf_rd_p=8a8f3917-7900-4ce8-ad90-adf0d53c0985&pd_rd_wg=5VABh&pf_rd_r=7FZA7MV8N95PMPYF4CN7&pd_rd_r=9bcdbb23-a11f-11e9-b9fa-597a26e8a4d3

There are a lot of similar products on amazon including some that can integrate a standard outlet.

And run more than one wire. Maybe run 2-4 ethernet cables from one side of the house to the other. If you have your router or switch by your cable modem, then you won't need to manage those at the end with your TV and other devices.

Maybe put one of these by your devices for a clean connection.

Try banana plugs for a more secure connection.

Monoprice 109436 Gold Plated... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0097JLQVC?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Dunno where you live but an electrician should be able to wire and install one of these as well as one of these on an adjacent wall for about $200.

Yup, that subwoofer cable will work.


 

You can just buy a spool of speaker wire (like this) and that’s all you’ll need, although I recommend getting some banana plugs just to make it easier to unplug stuff if needed, but up to you.

>My question is; is the wall hollow in between the boxes?

Almost certainly yes.

> Would this be something that the technician would possibly be willing to do for me?

Most likely no, he/she probably won't have the tools and parts.

Just replace the cover? They are usually standard.

There are a zillion versions of this

https://www.amazon.com/d/Electrical-Connectors-Wall-Plates/RCA-RJ45-Wall-Plate-TPH552R/B00111AAZ2

If it is really Cat5e, you can get something like this to rewire it.

For the wall, I'd recommend a brush plate or cable plate.

I'd use something like this if I'm understanding correctly:

https://www.amazon.com/DataComm-45-0001-WH-1-Gang-Recessed-Voltage/dp/B00193U3O0/ref=sr_1_3?s=audio-video-accessories&ie=UTF8&qid=1472826412&sr=1-3

How about something like this?

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001C4BEOY/

you need something like this.

https://www.amazon.com/Datacomm-50-3323-WH-KIT-Panel-Organizer-Solution/dp/B001PB7UVA/ref=sr_1_cc_1?s=aps&ie=UTF8&qid=1523348881&sr=1-1-catcorr&keywords=tv+mount+wiring+kit

Any kit like this works - pretty easy.

Something like this can be used - https://www.amazon.com/Datacomm-50-3323-WH-KIT-Panel-Organizer-Solution/dp/B001PB7UVA/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1519927920&sr=8-3&keywords=tv+outlet+recessed+box

I'd also look into Ethernet drops into every room, mounted to faceplates like so: https://www.amazon.com/Ethernet-Plate-ESYLink-Cable-Female/dp/B076GLSN5J/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=dual+ethernet+wall+plate&qid=1557318562&s=gateway&sprefix=dual+ethernet&sr=8-3

Do you live anywhere near Phoenix?

If not they are not difficult. The ends are just keystone Cat(x) jacks that go into a wall plate.

You might borrow or buy a punch tool to make the connection.

Need this

Echogear in Wall Power Kit Includes Low Voltage Cable Management - Hide TV Wires When Mounting A TV - Includes Hole Saw Drill Attachment for Easy Install https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07H9C1176/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_mJsQDbE8THCHS

They usually don't include the wire for connecting them, you just need some speaker wire. You can also get banana plugs to make plugging the wire in easier but that's optional

Most of what lbstrange1 wrote is incorrect.

That is a 66 block. It is completely unnecessary unless you are planning on having multiple phone lines in your home. Pull off all of the wires and throw the 66 block away.

If you want to go the cheap route just crimp RJ45 male connectors onto the end of each cable. There are YouTube videos that will show you how to properly crimp them. Make sure you are using 568B configuration.

If you want to make it look nice buy one of these:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000067SC6

Use the previously mentioned punch down tool to terminate the wires. DO NOT strip the wires first. Make sure you punch it down as 568B.

I'm willing to bet that your home builder's contractor installed RJ11 phone jacks throughout your home. If so you'll need these:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00111AAZ2/

Install them at each wall jack location using 568B configuration.

Finally, you'll need a switch as was previously stated. However it does not connect directly to your modem. You need to connect it to your router.

If the property is yours and if you're ok using a saw, you can snake the wires behind the wall and get two of these for the entry and exits.

Everything you need:
KCC Industries 1-Gang Recessed Low Voltage Cable Plate with Mounting Bracket +UL/CSA Listed Safe+ (2-Pack, White) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FQP5Y9Z/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_i_6XGXCbV8Z9S7P

Also sold at home Depot, would save a few bucks that way.

I don't think you have a specific need to remove the coax, it won't buy you that much more space IMO. With such a small space and relatively low amount of cables I would personally just use keystone jacks without a patch panel and keep the cables bundled together to save space. You should have enough space to move the coax out of the way, terminate keystone jacks on each cable and just buy some small (a foot or less) patch cables to connect them all to a small switch.

Totally agree -- going for these https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00193U3O0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I don't trust the pass-through capability of the HDMI couplers for differing HDMI standards.

They have these kits on Amazon that work really well if you already have a dry wall saw and wire snake. First one took an hour but my upstairs TV only took 30 minutes.

Yea I see ones like this:


Echogear in Wall Power Kit Includes Low Voltage Cable Management - Hide TV Wires When Mounting A TV - Includes Hole Saw Drill Attachment for Easy Install https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07H9C1176/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_sQTuDb3T1AHNQ

Not sure how that also wouldn’t be a code violation though.

I just have the cords outside the wall with cable management stuff. For me it works fine and I rent so can’t really be opening up walls.

Looking sharp, lets get those wires hidden between your TV and tv stand.

I used the following to properly hide power and low voltage a/v cables:

https://www.amazon.com/Datacomm-Electronics-50-6623-WH-KIT-Organizer-Solution/dp/B00JJ57CR6/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1520456366&sr=8-6&keywords=tv+mount+wire+hide+kit

(don't hide the TV's power cord inside of your wall, it's not rated properly, either put an actual outlet or use something like I've linked).

There are more options than that available, I used that one because at the time it was most inexpensive on Amazon in Canada.

What I did was get a kitchen knife and cut a small square out of the dry wall behind the monitor and desk. I used this to make it look nicer (https://www.amazon.com/DataComm-45-0001-WH-1-Gang-Recessed-Voltage/dp/B00193U3O0/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1519388733&sr=8-5&keywords=wall+cable&dpID=31zbRYhgfxL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch) after that I just ran the cable through. Took about 15 min to do.

It looks much cleaner if you use thiskit to run the cables.

If that is the case then I would consider purchasing a number of the in-wall cable management gangs and running the wires though the walls as close to their intended location.

https://www.amazon.com/DataComm-45-0001-WH-1-Gang-Recessed-Voltage/dp/B00193U3O0/ref=br_lf_m_zqbbrywou2wx7aq_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&s=aht


Also, since you already have power running there, you can look for this type of in wall management system, and simply widen the existing holes.

Hide that cord.

Datacomm Electronics 50-6623-WH-KIT Flat Panel TV Cable Organizer Kit with Power Solution https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JJ57CR6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_.Le3BbPCCKZW6

Yes, that's what I was thinking. That or this I was worried about the keystone because reviews say you can't use two jacks next to each other.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001PB7UVA/ref=mp_s_a_1_sc_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1511231243&sr

Here is one I found on Amazon that should do the trick.

I would probably grab something like this. Yes, the pin type banana plugs are what I would recommend, but I have a speaker selector from monoproce and it didn't fit the pins, which I though was strange.

Something like this. https://www.amazon.com/Echogear-Power-Voltage-Cable-Management/dp/B07H9C1176/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=hide+tv+wirse&qid=1567642002&s=gateway&sr=8-1-spell

Have one hole behind the moitor in place that no matter how high or low i move the mount it's not seen. The other hole is right behind my desk. If you see the split towards the top that is where all the cables are. So there is only the one coming out of there going into the wall power.

One common option is something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/Datacomm-50-3323-WH-KIT-Panel-Organizer-Solution/dp/B001PB7UVA/

Power, ethernet, video, and any other low voltage wires are passed behind the TV into the wall, and then can come out at floor level behind furniture or similar.

Trim it up if you want. I have been very pleaed with my investment in banana plugs, in your case it would only be at the speaker end. You put them on the wire then can then just plug them into the speaker.

https://www.amazon.com/RCA-RJ45-Wall-Plate-TPH552R/dp/B00111AAZ2 Would be the correct way to terminate wiring in a room.

http://www.amazon.com/DataComm-45-0001-WH-1-Gang-Recessed-Voltage/dp/B00193U3O0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1381287060&sr=8-1&keywords=coax+wall+plate+recessed

check this variation out, just throwin out ideas

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00193U3O0/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001C4BEOY/?coliid=I49ING7UZK4CL&colid=1L22QJ6LPEZIK&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

I did this and just bought an oversized wall/face plate

http://www.amazon.com/Datacomm-Electronics-DCM450002WH-2-Gang-Recessed/dp/B001C4BEOY/ref=sr_1_12?ie=UTF8&qid=1422722959&sr=8-12&keywords=low+voltage+wall+plate

If the cables were longer I would do this.
https://www.amazon.com/Datacomm-50-3323-WH-KIT-Panel-Organizer-Solution/dp/B001PB7UVA/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1522771598&sr=8-8&keywords=wall+cable

Here is the one I used.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001PB7UVA/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_d0BDCbEZEYRZ0

I used this and it was a breeze.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001PB7UVA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001PB7UVA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001PB7UVA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This is what I use... keeps within code and all that too.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001PB7UVA/

consider one of these:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003JUBMCI?psc=1

I just bought this a few days ago, and plan on using it this weekend: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006N2U46O/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Banana plugs?
https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-Plated-Speaker-Banana-Closed/dp/B0097JLQVC/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1511706062&sr=1-3&keywords=banana+plugs

So, toning them out has been thoroughly answered but to answer how you connect your AVR to this, make some short speaker wires with banana plugs on each end to jump between the wall plate and the AVR.