Reddit mentions: The best electrical distribution products

Absolutely.

For your controller needs, if you want to use a DualShock4, DS3, Wii U Pro Controller or WiiMote, all you need is a mini Bluetooth dongle and a driver such as DS4Windows (google "[controller] driver windows"). With the proper driver they should be supported under most games, but they might require a button mapping tool to work with some stuff (we can help you with that).

If you want to go the easy route and have a controller supported by most games with no driver configuration as soon as you plug it in, an Xbone controller is your choice. However, it will require a special M$ dongle to work wirelessly, and be warned that this dongle only works under Windows 10. Alternately, if you can live with some inferior design features, you can get a 360 controller (which still works with nearly all controller games) and its corresponding dongle, which has the added benefit of working with all Windows's back to XP. However, be aware that both of these controllers require AA batteries rather than the rechargeable packs found in DualShock/Nintendo. You can buy a rechargeable pack for Xbox controllers but it obviously costs extra.

All of the aforementioned controllers will also work over USB with any operating system.

Now to the second part of your question. I assume that you mean you want to play on your TV–this can be accomplished one of two ways and is easy to setup. The first and most obvious way is to simply keep your PC in your entertainment center and hook it to your TV over HDMI, in much the same way that you would your PS4. Steam's Big Picture mode tries to emulate the homescreen of a console to make controller navigation easier, and does a pretty good job of it. Coming from the PS4 interface I'm sure you'll feel right at home–but you do still need a KB+mouse to get in Big Picture from a cold PC startup. This shouldn't be an issue as there are many cheap wireless keyboards with inbuilt trackpads on offer.

The second way is to use a Steam Link. This is a very handy little set-top box that will stream video input over the internet from a PC in the house–if you've ever heard of the PlayStation TV, this is similar. In order to use the Link you must have fast (at least 10mbps; check using speedtest.net) Ethernet on both ends (your PC and the Link) and a controller that connects over USB (either thru a USB cable or a USB wireless receiver. The Xbox receivers mentioned in a previous paragraph currently don't work with the Link but Valve says they are looking into it). It's very simple to setup–hook the Link to internet, plug in your controller and HDMI cable for TV connection, and pair it with your PC. Then you'll have total access to all your controller-supported PC games from the couch, with no loss of graphics.

Also, as a PC gamer, I have a word for you–there are some games that do play better with KB+M, especially shooters. Trust me, once you try something like Call of Duty with a mouse, you will never be able to go back to aiming with controller sticks. If you want this benefit but still find KB+M uncomfortable, there is the Steam Controller which features a more accurate trackpad in place of the right stick, and will work with most of the games that an Xbox controller works with.

One final word. If you are actually, legitimately serious about getting into PC gaming–please for the LOVE OF GOD do not buy a pre-built one. BUILD. YOUR. OWN. Seriously, if you are looking to surpass consoles and get value for money, I CANNOT stress this enough. Although it may seem daunting at first it's really little more than high-tech LEGOs–/r/BuildaPCforMe will furnish you with a parts list so you don't have to bother with that, and then the build will take two hours tops (even if you're inexperienced). There are tons of great videos on YouTube that will show you how–this is my personal fave, although I do advise you not to use any of those parts since that vid is considerably old.

If you have any questions feel free to reply to this and I can help you out.

For the people talking about having 6 vcrs to connect all these, that's definitely not the case. Although this is a dirty, dirty repost, I wanted to chime in to say that I have a similar setup. It's probably a little more than half as comprehensive. The easiest way to set this up is with AV switches that feed into HDMI switches. Then you just print out a handy chart so your room mates don't bitch to you about not being able to work the TV.

This is the AV switch that I use:

https://www.amazon.com/Panlong-Switcher-Composite-Selector-Consoles/dp/B00KXVBB7C

This is the HDMI switch:

https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-Blackbird-Enhanced-Equalizer-Control/dp/B01GCGKMTO/ref=sr_1_35?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1518976317&sr=1-35&keywords=hdmi+switch+5x1

The HDMI switch is very important because some of the "smarter" HDMI switches will only display video encoded in certain ways. This is a giant pain in the ass. I originally got an 8 way switch but had to return it because it wouldn't display the PC output.

So basically I have all the older systems (snes, n64, dreamcast, wii, playstation 2) feeding into the AV RCA switch, which is input 1 on the hdmi switch. Then I've got Playstation 4 as input 2, Nintendo Switch as input 3, a RetroPie/Kodi setup as input 4, and a full linux media server as input 5. The HDMI switch then feeds into an elgato capture card which connects back to the media server in case we want to stream some retro games.

I have all of this set up in the most efficient way possible so that I get access to the most games possible with the least amount of hardware. I specifically chose the physical consoles that I wanted because they were hard to emulate and because I knew I could soft mod them to get a ridiculous amount of games with little overlap in catalogs. To this end I use the n64, which is not possible to emulate well on the raspberry pi 3 because of the hardware limitations and because I would have to have a whole different controller setup. The n64 to usb adapters are not good. I have two of them. Eventually I want to get an everdrive for this, and even an hdmi mod, but for now my cartridge collection is pretty extensive. I also modded it to be region free. Most of my cartridges are for this system and for SNES. The SNES is there for two reasons: firstly because sometimes there is input delay on the Pi and so if you want to play mario or something precise it's better to do it on the real deal. Also I like having the super gameboy plugged into this all the time because I make chiptunes in LSDJ. It's nice to be able to do it on a decent and reliable screen with much better speakers then be able to move the cartridge over to the gameboy whenever I want.

Dreamcast has a very unique catalog and I can literally just burn cd's to work on it as much as I want. It's an extremely efficient and cost effective system to own. The Wii is there specificall for gamecube games. It's currently softmodded with homebrew and has a usb switch in the back with about 50 of the best gamecube games. The PS2 is a similar situation. It has a big ass spinning hard drive in the back with a bunch of PS2 games. I love these types of console mods the most, but there are significant space limitations and the setup is relatively complex. It's near impossible for me to switch out new ps2 games for example.

Anyway, anything older than that gets dumped on the retropie. It does everything up to ps1 near flawlessly. We have a usb hub permanently affixed to our end table that we can conveniently attach ps4 controllers to of we want to play retropie. We can even hook up a usb keyboard for infocom games and the like.

The rub here is that most of the fun is in setting this up and showing it off. You're gonna end up using it once a month for fifteen minutes and the rest of your time you're still gonna be playing PUBG.

A little quick research shows these things.

1. Adding AUX to the factory JBL unit requires soldering onto the main circuit board of the radio after disassembly. No professional installer is going to do that. Period.
   
2. You can use an inline AUX/antenna adapter. They're $25 most places. It still uses the FM transmitter model, but it fits inline between the antenna and the head unit. The inline models interrupt the signal from the external antenna and provide a much cleaner sound. iSimple IS31 is an example. Removal of your head unit is an easy job for any installer, and fitting that thing in there is pretty easy. Most installers will begrudgingly do this for you, probably cost you $100 in labor plus parts. They'll be more likely to want to do this step if you're buying speakers at the same time.
   
3. Research your car at Crutchfield. Find the parts you want to fit your budget. Then make the next decision:
   
   1. Buy from Crutchfield and install it yourself. A reasonably handy friend can help. Your car is stupid easy to work on. Doesn't take many tools. You might be averse to installing it yourself, but if you're talking about buying shit on eBay you're obviously on a budget. Consider it again.
      
   2. Use the research to set your budget. Take your new knowledge to a reputable shop. Most places I've been will have nearly identical pricing to Crutchfield for parts and will of course charge you time and materials to do the installation. Expect $75-$85 per hour for the install. Some shops have a standard like $100 for basic installation of a head unit and a per-door speaker cost. They'll do a nice job, but you'll pay for it.
      
      Speakers...
      
      

• Your car has tweeters in the dash, one in each door, and the sub in the rear deck.
  
  • There are no tweeters (dash) that I've found that will fit without modification. You'll either have to buy eBay/junkyard replacements or go surface mount. Or find somebody willing to do the modifications.
    
  • Front and rear door speakers are easy and are as cheap as $40/pair. Probably cheaper if you're in Walmart mode.
    
  • Subwoofer (center of rear deck) is also easy. Probably $70+ for a nice one, less for something that'll work.
    
    That "thing under the passenger seat" is the factory JBL amplifier. There are kits now that will either bypass that factory amp or interface with it, depending on what you want. If you bypass it, your factory subwoofer goes away. Again, Crutchfield research.
    
    Shout out to Real Time Audio & Accessories for their work. They're a touch north of Gwinnett, but close enough and not far off of I-985 at Spout Springs.
    
    ​
    
    Have fun with it and good luck.
    
    ​

Great gift, I wouldn't say the $300 gift certificate to U-Turn Audio is necessarily too limiting, though there are other better options for around $300.

U-Turn Orbit Custom

• Basic MDF platter, Ortofon OM5E, cue lever, $20 shipping, $275. Option to add the acrylic platter later for $90.
  
• Acrylic platter, Ortofon OM5E, cue lever, $20 shipping, $350.
  
  An alternative if you sell the gift certificate, is the Fluance RT82 with Ortofon OM 10 $300. Adds auto stop and an optical sensor speed controlled motor for lower wow and flutter and speed variation specs. Also adds adjustable anti-skate and a removable head shell. You can later optionally upgrade to the acrylic platter as seen on the $500 RT85 for around $90 when Fluance gets it in stock.
  
  Speakers and amplification:
  
  First look for everything used if you can find for less than refurb, new or sale prices below, or some parts used and what you can't find new.
  
  If you need a cheap setup to start out with, 6-1/2" Speakers and Am Bundle $50. Then you can later upgrade each part a time if you find a good deal on better used bookshelf speakers or a used stereo or AV receiver. With a Music Hall Mini phono stage/preamp $59 free shipping (open box audition). Add an RCA Switcher $11 to if you have more than one audio source.
  
  Receiver/Amp: Receivers are refurbished with a one year manufacturers warranty. The receiver options have built in phono stage/preamp phono input you can start out with and then upgrade to a better external later.
  
  
• Low budget mini amp: $52 SMSL SA-36A. With the phono preamp and optional RCA switcher from above.
  
• Stereo: ONKYO TX-8220 $135, or ONKYO TX-8140 $200 with WiFi.
  
• AV If also ever using with a TV even with just 2 speakers, 4K HDMI switching, high pass crossover for your speakers if ever adding a subwoofer. DENON AVR-S640H 5.2 $200, Audyssey Multi EQ room correction EQ speaker setup and HEOS wireless networking and smartphone app.
  
  Speakers: Speaker recommendations from AverageJoeAudiophile and r/HTBuyingGuide. On sale:
  
  
• 5.25" Infinity Reference 152 $140 refurbished, originally $350 MSRP or Boston A25 $150 bogo.
  
• 6.5" Infinity Reference 152 $175 refurbished. MSRP $450.
  
• 5.25" Wavecrest Audio HVL-1, and order on sale at Ascend $80 each + shipping, budget Ascends. Front ported. Neutral sound with a linear frequency response. Great mids which many speakers lack. To me, comparable to KEF Q100s. As with most bookshelf speakers, best with a subwoofer.
  
• 6.5" $200 a pair, JBL Studio 230 refurbished or Boston A26 bogo.
  
  Towers on sale: Pioneer FS52 $150 pair (note the long massdrop ship time) or Boston A250 $225 pair bogo.
  
  DIY speakers, build your own: Add around $50+ for tools and supplies. Kits includes pre-cut cabinets. Glue, solder, paint, assemble. Comparable to built speakers costing twice as much. C-Notes $100 are a great starter DIY speaker.
  
  Speaker wire: Pure Copper Oxygen Free 16 Gauge Speaker Wire 50 ft. and self adjusting wire strippers, optional banana plugs to add. Or already with banana plugs, Micca or DFWCableConnection.
  
  Speaker stands: Dayton Audio SSMB24, Monoprice Glass or Monolith by Monoprice and Audio Advisor where most are also available at Amazon.
  
  Subwoofer:
  
  
• Infinity Reference SUB R12 12" 300 Watt Powered Subwoofer $200 refurbished.
  
• Dayton Audio SUB-1200 12" 120 Watt Powered Subwoofer $150.
  
  Guides:
  
  Home Audio: Intro to home stereo systems • Zeos Tutorials, Diagrams and Videos • Guide to Home Audio • AverageJoeAudiophile's Guides • r/BudgetAudiophile
  
  Speaker Positioning: Speaker Placement for Stereo Music Listening • How to position your speakers for great sound
  
  Also see r/BudgetAudiophile.

Definitely use the Svideo, if you don't want to go the SCART to Component route. I used Svideo cables coming out of the SNES/N64 and they go into a switch that handles svideo and composite RCA(Red, White, Yellow) Cables. Then the switch outputs everything over one svideo cable into the svideo port and the sound I run into the red/white. [Switcher similar to mine] (http://www.amazon.com/C2G-Cables-28750-Composite-Selector/dp/B0032ANC8M)


Best N64/SNES Svideo cable is this one but there are cheaper ones out there too but your mileage will vary. Those cables can be found on ebay usually for more the $50 range. So Run your NES over the composite RCA into the switch, your SNES/N64 into the switch via svideo, and then use just the svideo out on your switch and the red/white audio out because svideo only carries video not audio.


If you really want to get into RGB/SCART/COMPONENT Setups, I'd look at the other posts and also here If you want to do that, you'll need SCART cables for your SNES and 64, then need to run them into a box like [this] (http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-SCART-RGB-to-YUV-Component-Video-Converter-Scaler-/221156873851) And you'll need to split out audio like [this] (http://forums.shoryuken.com/discussion/157395/adding-audio-to-the-cvs287-scart-to-component-converter) also you might need a SCART switch to run from the consoles into SCART switch then out put in SCART to the converter box then from the converter box to the Component on your TV. Also your N64 will need to be modded for RGB output and your NES will too.


The SNES is the only one in your setup outputting full RGB by default. Honestly un-modded Composite is the best you get for NES and Svideo for N64(some even say composite is better for N64 depending on the model and chipsets in the N64).



I've toyed with that setup but honestly Svideo on the old Sony Trinitron looks great to me. Also monster cables are well known for quality, good insulation, etc. So I have some RCA composite Monster cables, the Svideo ones, and a few random RCA ones too.

I will probably get flak for doing this but here you go:

Sony SSB1000 ($55) These speakers are pretty good for how cheap they are. Much better than the Micca Covos.

SMSL-SA-50 ($68) I have this amp and it is awesome how much it puts out. I see the people all the time recommend the Lepai LP-2020 for cheap setups but ignore that amp. Get this one.

There you have it. Cheap setup that is entirely expandable. Get some Banana plugs and some cheap speaker wire.

Later on if you save your pennies you can buy something like the dayton sub for about 100 bucks and will fit nicely with that setup.

FM transmitters will reduce sound quality. Bluetooth will reduce sound quality. You have both, so they're both reducing the quality of the sound.

Radio stations have huge towers to produce a strong signal, which you're picking up with the antenna of your car. The transmitter you're using produces a very weak signal, which is fine to produce a small "station" for your car, but isn't strong enough to transmit the bass and treble of audio.

So, there isn't any way to increase the quality of an FM transmitter (that I know of). Which leaves you two options.

1. Buy an aftermarket head unit for your car that has bluetooth or an auxiliary input.
   
   
2. Get an FM modulator. This is what I use in my car. It's sort of like your FM transmitter, but instead of producing a little bubble station to play audio over it you plug it in behind the radio and it takes over the stations. Instead of broadcasting a station, it's hardwired to play louder than other stations. It's CD quality audio. I'm not an audiophile, but I really like good quality sound and it sounds amazing.
   
   This is what I purchased. I've had it in my car for about 3 years and it's worked flawlessly the entire time.
   
   This one has bluetooth, but is a lot more expensive.
   
   Good luck!

Definitely spring for an inexpensive hdmi switcher that covers what you need! It's a great, cheap way to be able to add in more stuff in your setup. I have a couple of different ones and they work well for my purposes:

• The Fosmon pigtail only has devices hooked up to it that can be powered off (like the PS3). It doesn't support a remote, but it doesn't matter since the autoswitching wouldn't be affected by any continuous draw devices (like a Chromecast or FireTV). It doesn't require any power source.
  
  
• The Kinivo 301BN is a lot more flexible. I have it programmed into my Harmony and configured for a multitude of devices, like my 360, Chromecast, Fire Stick, VitaTV, and PC. Since it supports a remote, it doesn't matter that I have devices that are always on connected to it, and the auto switching works like a peach. It requires an external power source.
  
  
• Unfortunately, I ran out of ports on that sucker (it only has 5!), so I bought this TeckNet 3 port. Depending on how much power it can pull over the HDMI, it may not need a power source... I've used it in two setups, one where I was able to just daisy chain it to the Kinivo and one where I had to power it off the USB directly from a TV. Supports a remote, so I got it programmed into the Harmony and it works well for always on devices.
  
  ...also, if you haven't looked into unifying your whole setup with a Harmony-style solution, definitely give it a thought! Initial configuration can be a little annoying, but you kind of forget all about it once you're hopping between presets with single button presses. You don't need to go big money on it...the 650 is a great remote with a nice screen (basically like a fancier version of the Xbox 360 Harmony), or you can go with one of the higher dollar versions that uses your phone/tablet as the primary interface. Very customization, very cool.

Depends on how involved you want to get. Here it's all a matter of aesthetics, and if you want it to look good, you've gotta do the work. Fortunately, I did it for the first time myself, and it looks good and is worth it.

1. Take the TV off the mount. Go into the attic and assess the area directly above the fireplace. Should be easy to find based on the chimney, but if not (and there aren't any wires or duct work above it), drill a small hole in your ceiling right in the center of the fireplace, and poke a straightened wire coat hanger into it. This will penetrate the insulation and give you a good point of reference.
   
   
2. Buy and install a combo recessed plug and cable plate. If there's not much room behind the drywall, you can get shallower versions.
   
   
3. Run electrical power (12/2 Romex is sufficient for a flat screen) and a single long HDMI cable to your box. Wiring sounds difficult, but with a fish tape and a paddle bit, it's actually not that bad. DIY Network has a writeup here. If you're unsure of local code, or don't want to mess with electricity, you could run the power cable to the box, and then have a local electrician tap into an existing line with capacity (this should be much cheaper than having them do the whole job).
   
   
4. Run the other end of the HDMI cable to wherever you want your source boxes to be. Ours are in our coat closet. Use either an A/V switching receiver or an HDMI switch to control the source. Yes, modern TV's have multiple HDMI ports on the back, but for a clean and easy installation, doing 1 cable to the TV, and then switching at the sources is a much better solution than running a new cable through the attic for each device.
   
   Good luck.

I know it can be tempting, but you should never buy a console solely because of the hardware. Hardware is no good if it doesn't play the games you want to play. Crash Bandicoot: N-Sane Trilogy and the upcoming Final Fantasy 7 remake are both PS4 exclusives. And though nothing has been officially stated, many people assume a Spyro remaster is coming next, especially in the wake of Crash Bandicoot's critical reception and sales numbers.

The idea that PS5 will feature backwards compatibility is likewise only a rumor, however, it's backed by logical evidence. But it's worth keeping in mind that Sony has a business interest in NOT offering backwards compatibility, so that they can more easily sell Playstation Now subscriptions, classic digital titles (ala Nintendo's virtual console), and remastered classics. (In other words, just because they can, doesn't mean they will.) And if Sony does ultimately offer b/c with PS5 and copies Microsoft's approach to the tiniest detail, then the PS5 won't have b/c at launch but will have it patched in later, and even then only for the most popular titles. I still have my Xbox 360 hooked up because my Xbox One isn't a 100% replacement for it, and it probably never will be. So buying any console with backwards compatibility in mind is something of a crapshoot.

It might be worth mentioning that you do have options besides Playstation and Xbox. Nintendo Switch has been very popular since it launched in March, and remains perpetually sold out. To get one at this point in time, you'd either have to buy one from an eBay scalper or watch stock trackers carefully and be in the right place at the right moment. But it doesn't take advantage of 4K, and in what could be either a pro or a con depending on your mindset, offers less crossover with the catalog of games you already have access to on PC. However, Nintendo does have a stellar reputation for offering approachable games and single-system multiplayer, and is often thought of as a good choice for girlfriend gaming. Your other option is to run an extra video cable from your PC to your TV if your hardware supports it, and buy some wireless controllers. (I recommend wireless Xbox One controllers, or wireless Xbox 360 controllers if you're running Windows 7.) Then you can just play PC games on your couch, although it won't be quite as simple to start and switch between games, which might not sit well with your g/f.

Connecting multiple consoles to your TV is not particularly menacing, unless you just don't have the physical space for it. If you have a 4K set you probably have enough spare HDMI ports, and if not you can get an HDMI switch to expand the number of available ports, along with a power strip or two if need be. I have 6 consoles hooked up to my 4K flatscreen — PS4, PS3, Xbox One, Xbox 360, Nintendo Switch and Nintendo Wii U. That's why I don't worry about backwards compatibility.

The GV-USB2 is probably one of the best cheap cards out there. If you want an example of the quality, here's a recording from back when I was using it. I'm pretty sure it can look even better, as I was only using the RCA cables, and not the S-Video input. Just make sure you get a powered splitter like this or this (for S-video) so you can send the signal to both the TV and the recording device without lag.

Just make sure you set the device up properly and use some kind of deinterlacing. For ease of use I'd just recommend using the built in de-interlacing options in OBS.

Edit: If you're short on money and don't want to spend extra on a splitter for live capture, then you can just save your match replays using Legacy TE, and then record them through the recording device using your computer screen to navigate the menus. This requires extra work though, and it can be easy to forget to save your replays. I'd just recommend getting the capture device and the splitter so you can record it all in one go.

The one's I had you could tell if the one in your room was set to listen to you because there was a button like "passive listening" or something. It would stay depressed while active, but pushing it again would pop it back out.

Damn I miss good physical buttons. I currently have an hdmi switcher that has an awesome super clicky button that has 2 physical states.

It is the best button I have used since 80s video players. Just fucking click it in and it feels so damn good. And then clicking another button and having the other one pop out. So satisfying. The absolute best though, was probably pressing down the tape on those top loading video players.

Buy yourself Smash for 3DS!! It comes out on Friday (the day the contest ends! IT'S A SIGN!!) and it is going to be fantastic (Source: I've played the demo lots). Smash is addicting fun, and it lets you battle online, so you could even battle against your fellow RAOAers that get it! It's going to keep you entertained for a while, so what's to lost? Treat yourself and get it!

As for me, I would LOVE to receive this HDMI 3-port switch device. I just found out these things exist, and this would make my life insanely easier. I don't have enough HDMI ports on my TV, so I always have to flip it around, unplug, and replug to get things to work. This eliminates that! So, you're buying something that will get constant use and make my life a bit easier! :)

Thanks for the contest! This is awesome of you :) Batman Suit.

Here is the switcher that I use. My tv has s video input so it works great because I can use systems that output s video or composite with this one. Here is an s video cable that would work for both your SNES and your N64. Here is a composite cable that would work with your model 1 Sega Genesis, and Here would be am example of composite cables that would work with you NES.

As for the surge protector, here is the one I use and I really like it because it can hold a lot of the big power bricks that these older consoles like to use. Anyway hope that helped point you in the right direction. Of course it is a little bit of an investment, but overall I bet you will be much happier with a set up like this. I know personally I could never go back to constantly physically switching consoles out when I want to play them, this makes it so much easier to enjoy all my consoles with minimal effort. Good luck on your set up!

Unfortunately £100 is just around the lower limit of the very-entry level, not really mid-range if we're going to be honest.

The easy solution is M-audio AV-40s. They are 'powered monitors' so the amplifier is inside, all you have to do is feed them signal.

Alternatively, you could go for "passive" bookshelf loudspeakers and an amplifier. The advantage to this route is that you can upgrade the speakers or amp separately (edit: also each individual component is probably at least a bit better than the av40s, and if anything ever fails it can be replaced separately; it's just more flexible overall). There's some extra work involved but it's not difficult..

These Wharfedale 9.0 should be good for the price (the Diamond 9.1 were reviewed by Stereophile and they measure well for the price).

You'll need an amp, speaker wire, and some banana plugs are helpful. Oh, and probably a 3.5mm stereo to 2RCA cable to connect your 3.5mm source(s) to the amp.

How much better are either of these compared to tiny computer speakers like Logitech or Creative etc.? Much better.

GameCube and Game Boy Player is the standard setup. The startup disc for the Game Boy Player can be a bit pricey these days, but you can softmod the GameCube and use the free Game Boy Interface software as an alternative.

From there, you can get an HDMI adapter and HDMI capture card (lots of those to choose from). Or if you need to save some money, a good S-Video capture device like the IO Data GV-USB2, an S-Video splitter, and a GameCube S-Video cable will still get you a pretty decent-looking capture. Either way, set it up in OBS and you're good to go.

I'd suggest also getting an SNES controller adapter. I find it way nicer than using the GBA as a controller. There's also one for Wii Classic Controllers if you prefer.

You have a couple of options. These are the things you will absolutely need:

1. A capture card - For PS2, I highly recommend this one. It is the best SD USB card for the price.
   
   
2. The right AV cables. For a sharper image, use S-Video instead of the yellow composite video. For S-Video, you'll need a cable such as this one You don't have to use S-Video, but if you're going to stream, I recommend it.
   
   
3. A powered splitter - This is to take the video from the console and pipe it to two different sources, your capture card and your TV. I have two of these splitters and they work wonderfully. You will only need one. It is a one-in, four-out splitter, so two of your outputs will remain unused unless you have another source you need the video to go to.
   
   
4. AV cables to go from the outputs on your splitter to the TV and capture card. For the connection from the first output to your capture card, you can use a standard male-male S-Video cable. For the second output that goes to your TV, it just depends on what kind of TV you have. If you're playing PS2, I recommend using a higher-end CRT, in which case you can just use male-male composite cables. If you TV has a native S-Video port, then just get a second male-male S-Video cable.
   
   
5. A PC that can handle streaming - I know this sounds vague, but you wouldn't believe how many people attempt to stream even SD consoles with a GV-USB2 on laptops pre-2010. When OBS or XSplit is open and streaming, your processor will be in use. If you do not have a decent processor, streaming will bog your PC down.
   
   That's about all I can think of. It's daunting at first when you're trying to imagine how everything would be set up, but I promise it's not as difficult as it sounds. If you have any other questions, just reply here and I'll do my best to answer.

You have already mentioned that size is a factor. In that case, I can recommend Denon SC-F109, which are almost the same size and about £10 more. Tried, tested and impressed. Never heard the QAcoustics so cannot say anything, but the Denon has a lot of fans in Germany apart from me.


Both of your amps are good enough for desktop use. Get the SA 50 if you also plan on using it for a small party.

The wire seems a bit expensive to me. For that price you could get 100 feet of speaker cable and banana plugs and attach them yourself. All you need is a wire stripper or a pocket knife. In fact, I don't even use banana plugs; they are only convenient if you plan to connect/disconnect speakers often. 12 AWG would be too thick for your purpose, 16 AWG (or even 18) is good enough. You could also save some money by buying per meter (or feet as you're in the UK!) from some sellers or check your local classifieds to see if someone wants to get rid of their extra speaker cable. Also, I can vouch for this 3.5mm to RCA cable. These are a little more expensive, but very well made and don't usually suffer from contact issues.

PS: Just wanted to add some more information about speaker dimensions. H x W x D mm

• Denon SC-F109 - 245 x 165 x 234
  
  
• Wharfedale Diamond 9.0 - 236 x 145 x 165
  
  
• Q Acoustics 2010i - 235 x 150 x 203
  
  So the Wharfedales really are the smallest of the lot, and the Denons the biggest but only in depth.

It's a Sony PVM 20L2, technically I think it's a 19 inch, but the model number implies 20 inch and that's what everyone lists them as. Although it does seem a tiny bit smaller than my old 20 inch Trinitron it replaced. I'll measure them later and find out for sure.

The cables are a bit of a mess right now, going from my old CRT with SCART -> Converter Box -> Component -> CRT to this setup changed around some stuff, but once I clean everything up I planned on doing a full "Gameroom" post featuring all the shelves and stuff. I'll take a few photos of the cables as well. :)

But, basically for the RGB connected stuff (SNES, Sega, PS1 and PS2) they start with these cables from the console to the Switch:

• https://www.retrogamingcables.co.uk/nintendo/super-nintendo/super-nintendo-entertainment-system-famicom-snes-n64-rgb-av-scart-cable-ntsc-tv-lead-wire-cord
  
• https://www.retrogamingcables.co.uk/sega/mega-drive-1/sega-mega-drive-1-sega-genesis-1-stereo-rgb-av-scart-cable-tv-lead
  
• https://www.retrogamingcables.co.uk/sony-av-accessories/SONY-PLAYSTATION-CSYNC-COMPOSITE-SYNC-RGB-SCART-WTH-LIGHT-GUN-PORT
  
• https://www.retrogamingcables.co.uk/sony-av-accessories/sony-PLAYSTATION-2-rgb-scart-cables/SONY-PLAYSTATION-2-PS2-CSYNC-COMPOSITE-SYNC-RGB-SCART-WTH-LIGHT-GUN-PORT
  
  This is the SCART Selector switch I use, works like a champ. Switches automatically. I love this thing to death.
  
  
• https://www.amazon.com/Bandridge-Performance-Automatic-Selector-Switching/dp/B0015YYN2Q/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1503930304&sr=8-1&keywords=SCART+switch
  
  From there, it goes out a generic (Male) SCART -> (Male) SCART (Used as an extension cable basically)
  
  Then, into this (Female) SCART -> BNC connector
  
  
• https://www.retrogamingcables.co.uk/sony-pvm-scart-converter-bnc
  
  Then finally, into the Sony PVM CRT.
  
  For audio, I just use a Stereo Jack -> RCA cable off the selector switch into my little cheapo 2.1 sound system (This PVMs don't have stereo sound).
  
  Everything else is running off composite right now (Yellow Red White RCA connectors), going into a RCA switch and into the Sony PVM
  
  Composite -> BNC adapters for the video signal
  
  
• https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01L6GTXYU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
  The composite switch I use.
  
  
• https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KXVBB7C/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
  Audio is the same story as above, just goes from the switch into the cheapo 2.1 system directly. So I pretty much don't use the PVM's speakers.

I also got confirmation that the only two items I wanted were both disqualified for eligibility, which is bullshit. The promotional terms state video games are ineligible, but it's actually ANY ITEM LISTED IN A VIDEO GAME CATEGORY.
_


Initial Question: Inquiring about the 'BIGTHANKS' promotional code item eligibility.
>03:13 PM PST Pratik(Amazon): Hello, my name is Pratik. I'm here to help you today. Thank you for being a Prime member. NIce to meet you!

__

>03:13 PM PST Me: Hello
>03:14 PM PST Me: I noticed that today, there is a promotional code BIGTHANKS that should remove $8.62 from a $50+ order, however it does not seem to work on the items I am attempting to buy?



>03:14 PM PST Pratik: For the promotions all the items should be sold by Amazon. Here are the terms and conditions of the promotion :

>https://www.amazon.com/b/?node=15240005011&pf_rd_p=0033c189-b389-4340-a57b-3c3f1cb0d54d&pf_rd_r=QY61TM0PMM071R7W6XS0



>03:14 PM PST Me: Both of these items are sold by Amazon.com LLC



>03:15 PM PST Pratik: May I know if they are video games?




>03:15 PM PST Me: They are not video games - one is a controller and the other a Steam Link

>03:16 PM PST Me: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B016XBGWAQ/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

>https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GW3H3U8/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER




>03:16 PM PST Pratik: Thank you for the link. I am sorry to say that Offer does not apply to digital content, video games, or Amazon Gift Cards.

>Please read our terms and conditions and you will be able to see it.

>https://www.amazon.com/b/?node=15240005011&pf_rd_p=0033c189-b389-4340-a57b-3c3f1cb0d54d&pf_rd_r=QY61TM0PMM071R7W6XS0




>03:16 PM PST Me: But these items do not qualify under those categories




>03:17 PM PST Pratik: The steam link comes underthe digital content. Please read the terms and conditions :
>https://www.amazon.com/b/?node=15240005011&pf_rd_p=0033c189-b389-4340-a57b-3c3f1cb0d54d&pf_rd_r=QY61TM0PMM071R7W6XS0




>03:18 PM PST Me: I have read the terms and conditions, however the steam link is NOT a digital item and neither of these two physical items are VIDEO GAMES. As such, why are they not eligible for the promo code to be applied?




>03:20 PM PST Pratik: Please check the items one more time. The items comes under the video games category.




>03:21 PM PST Me: They may be in the video game category, however they are not themselves video games. The terms and conditions specifically says "video games" no?

____


>03:21 PM PST Pratik: Please try to understand that if the items comes under the Video games category then the promotion will not be applied.

The HDMI handshake always takes some time, and Windows is particularly annoying with displays in my experience. Even if I plug my display in directly without any interruption or switching, simply changing between "active" and "disabled" in Windows causes all connected displays to turn on and off for several seconds. Windows often scrambles which display has my icons and open programs, too. I see how that'd be a big problem for you. Its not home and not theater, but I'm looking into it.

The ideal approach off the top of my head would be to have the display already "on" and connection negotiated, then just not display the image until its needed. I've got a few ideas:

- There are fast HDMI switchers out there. They are the ones that have an option to display which ever input is currently active, but support only one output each. They are cheap, though. This product on Amazon claims that the connected PCs can have their output as "always on", then it simply displays either the first active one or the one selected via remote. $40 https://www.amazon.ca/Kinivo-501BN-Premium-wireless-adapter/dp/B0049SCB2Y

- Try looking into "presentation switchers" instead. They start pretty cheap at B&H, but would do more what you want. KannexPro, for example,even has UltraFast HDMI switchers boasting 0.2 seconds switching time. This particular one is pricier at $500, but it says it can pre-store the EDID information of multiple displays to switch HDCP signals faster: https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1424577-REG/kanexpro_hdmx42_18g_4x2_hdmi_2__4k_60.html

- Perhaps instead of connecting them as displays, have you tried adding a capture card to the PCs and connecting the output of that to a switch? This should at least negate Windows messing with it

- Or, alternatively have a PC/laptop/cheap Android tablet connected to the projector, and have it remotely display the content of one of the other PCs via wired LAN? You can probably get a sufficient connection going over LAN

For an HDMI switch, I use this: Kinivo Switch, and it works great. I have a PS4, XB1, Wii U, Switch and PS3 hooked up to it. I have no issues with it, and recommend it. I am running everything at 1080, though.


I also have 2 of the Pelican System Selector Pro 2.0's that I absolutely love. Each one has 6 inputs, capable of switching composite, s-video and component. You have to run the appropriate outputs, so you are really limited to using 1 type of output realistically. If you get fancy with the output wiring you can mix and match, but I like to keep it simple. I use S-Video for everything that supports it into the selectors and then into a Toshiba CRT TV. I don't see any on eBay right now, but that's pretty much where you're gonna find them. I really like mine and recommend trying to scoop one up.


I used to run the regular Pelican System Selectors that had push buttons to switch sources. They work, but don't look as slick as the Pro's and Pro 2.0's.


Mixing inputs gets tricky, and I typically run different switching units for different types of outputs (s-video, component, HDMI). Here is a link to my setup I posted on reddit a few weeks ago: my setup

Get a switch that has four or five HDMI inputs. Run everything through that. The trick, I suppose, is finding one that supports HDR across all of the inputs. Here's one for $50. There are undoubtedly lots of others, but this is the first I spotted that definitely has HDR support.

If the switch supports HDMI-CEC it will automatically switch to whatever the active device input is. The one I lined above doesn't specify HDMI-CEC, but it talks about "intelligent switching" that sounds like it either is HDMI-CEC or something equivalent.

Alternately, is a receiver and surround sound system an option? Even 5.1 will enhance your videogame and movie watching experience exponentially. It's obviously more expensive to implement but it can be phased in over time - get a used receiver and a couple of speakers, start with a 2.0 setup and add speakers as your budget allows.

I've got you covered for about $35, possibly cheaper depending on whether or not your turntable already has a pre-amp built in.

What you need:

• Pyle Phono Preamp for $15.42 - cheap, will get the job done. I have a feeling that you've got something already if you are listening to records at proper volume
  
• adapter cable like this - so your 3.5 mm input will be switched to RCA plugs
  
• Y-cable like this - this is for your computer
  
• This A/V switcher for $16.79 - This is where the magic happens. You could honestly buy any switcher that does the same thing as this at a local store, but here's what's cheap on Amazon.
  
  Here's how it works:
  
  
• 3.5mm on your speakers -> RCA adapter -> one of the outputs on your switcher
  
• Line out from turntable -> preamp -> input on switcher
  
• audio out jack on computer -> Y cable -> input 2 on switcher
  
  Now all you have to do is press a button to change inputs. And like I said earlier, if your turntable already has a pre-amp built in, or you already own a pre-amp or receiver, then you can knock $15 off the price and have everything you need for under $20. Possibly right now if you head to a WalMart or something.
  
  Edit: The bonus about this method is you keep the signal analog the whole way through. Also, as mentioned by /u/apapousek, a two channel system is the absolute best audio upgrade you can make at the moment.

/u/Gogo229 - For live events, I'd recommend a real camcorder like the [$1799 JVC HM200] (https://www.amazon.com/JVC-GY-HM200U-Professional-Camcorder-Handle/dp/B00V7LZTYI//ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&linkCode=ll1&tag=battleforthew-20).

This camera will cost you several hundred dollars less than a GH5 and give you built-in SDI out, which you can plug straight into the SDI input of a [$551 Blackmagic Web Presenter] (https://www.amazon.com/Blackmagic-Design-Presenter-Teranex-Pearstone/dp/B06X3W3HQS//ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&linkCode=ll1&tag=battleforthew-20) without an adapter.

With an [inexpensive 2 input switch] (https://www.amazon.com/Bi-direction-Manual-Switch-Passthrough-Supports-DotStone/dp/B01L8LLP2G//ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&linkCode=ll1&tag=battleforthew-20) for the Web Presenter's HDMI input, you'll have a slick 3 camera setup you can send straight to your laptop without spending $1000 for the Roland.

[Here] (https://youtu.be/LgLz5ba1aTE) is a nice summary of what the Web Presenter can do.

And here are a few examples of the image quality the HM200 (and its lower-end twin, the HM170) can produce:

Outdoors

• [A Fishing Story with Ronnie Green and Jen 4k by sam root] (https://vimeo.com/178128763) (2 camera show with a couple of color grading examples) (4k)
  
  
• [JVC GY-HM170 (4K) by Ferenc Kereszturi] (https://youtu.be/dgKV1rwyoc4) (2160p)
  
  Indoors (Non-studio)
  
  
• [JVC GY-HM170/JVC GY-HM200 - 2016 World of Wheels - Chicago by illdaddyrod] (https://youtu.be/fvm9UYQg8Bo) (1080p)
  
  
• [4K basketball by JVC GY-HM170/GY-HM200 test video in typical dark gym - Pinewood Girls Basketball 2016, by Rich Altmaier] (https://youtu.be/IDmpxSKo_Pw) (shot in a dimly lit basketball gym at -21dB - 2160p)
  
  Slow Motion
  
  
• [Paintball: 2016 January 31st practice @ Blitz Paintball Colorado Mile High Island] (https://youtu.be/BP95O4bn8os) (shot with JVC HM170 and DJI Osmo at 1080/120p)
  
  
• [Ian Howes - Broome Tioga MX (KTM 250 XC) | JVC HM170 Test Footage by Adamgmx24] (https://youtu.be/Zb3gPnjLjbM)
  
  
• [GY-HM200/HM170 1920x1080 120p footage by JVCProfessional] (https://youtu.be/5GxHLvXSFS0)
  
  For shooting live events, a real video camera will make your life a lot easier than shooting with a still/video compromise camera. If you want the large sensor, shallow depth of field "look" for some shots, you can shoot them with your G7.
  
  And if you ever want to do a single camera livestream, you can leave the Web Presenter at home and stream straight to the web from the HM200, which has a built-in IP encoder for live streaming from anywhere there's a hotspot with a [$7.99 wi-fi dongle] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003MTTJOY//ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&linkCode=ll1&tag=battleforthew-20).
  
  [Here] (https://youtu.be/lzF0XRSM4_w) is how streaming works with the [$2295 sports version] (http://adorama.evyy.net/c/60286/51926/1036?u=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.adorama.com%2Fjvgyhm200sp.html) of this camcorder (yours would be exactly the same, but without the scoreboard graphic overlays).
  
  [Here] (https://youtu.be/Y3oYNy47yYo) is the JVC promo video on this feature, using USTREAM as the example streaming platform.
  
  Hope this is helpful and good luck with finding the right camera for your needs!
  
  
  
  

Yeah great choice.

As far as cables, it really depends on how you have it set up.

The ideal scenario would be (for me at least):

• All video sources into back of receiver with HDMI cables (premium high-speed if it's a 4K source)
  
  
• One HDMI cable from receiver to HDMI 2 in TV (that's the ARC one). This allows you to use the TV apps (Netflix, Amazon, etc) to take advantage of the sweet, sweet Dolby Vision.
  
  
• Speaker wiring. Depends on how you want to wire it. I did in wall wiring so I used CL2 rated wire for the in-wall runs which terminated at a banana plug wall plate behind the receiver and a banana clip wall plate behind F/L and F/R. Then I used clear 14 AWG speaker wire from the wallplates to the receiver and speakers. I went straight from the receiver to the center channel (which you don't have yet). I also pre-wired for surrounds and Atmos but haven't gotten the components (Atmos at least) yet.
  
  
• Speaker wire termination.
  The speakers and receiver have the ability to connect to bare speaker wire but I went the route of using these banana clips for a cleaner look.
  
  Really it all depends on your set-up I guess. I can post some pics of mine to help clarify stuff as well.

I also have everything from an nes to the ps4/switch, and what I do is use an rca amplifier and splitter (to keep the signal strong, otherwise it looks dark on my TV), and then I run one video signal to my HD upscaler and then to my elgato capture card, and I run the other video signal straight to my TV. I then take the rca audio that would normally output to my TV, and instead pipe it directly to an analog mixer with USB. The other audio output goes to my upscaler so the audio and video is perfectly synced on the capture card. This gives me zero latency play on the TV and zero latency audio in my headphones, and furthermore allows independent audio control between the stream and my headphones, so I can crank the game volume if needed to listen for gameplay cues.

For hdmi audio, I use an hdmi splitter and run one to my monitor which has a headphone jack - I run this audio to my mixer using a 3.5mm to stereo rca adapter cable, and the other goes to my capture card. Same result, perfectly synced audio for the stream and perfectly synced, independent volume adjustment for my headphones.

You can do this without a mixer by just using a cable adapter to plug into your pc's line in, but there may be some latency involved and any adjustment you do for your headphones will also affect the volume on the stream. Still, a decent USB audio mixer is a good $100 or more, so it helps to do it that way instead if you're on a budget.

Edit: you can do the same with component video, s video, and rbg too, if you buy the right av distribution device. So an rgb modded nes or a ps2/GC can run at their best, if you have the cash to spend on the amplifiers/splitters and upscalers.

Here is my build list formated for reddit

Group | Name | Price | Quantity | Total | Link
--- | --- | --- | --- | --- | ---
Pc | (Everything Inside the case) | | | |
$1,601.62 | Intel Core i7-6700K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor | $347.00 | 1 | $347.00 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B012M8LXQW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| Cooler Master Hyper D92 54.8 CFM Rifle Bearing CPU Cooler | $44.80 | 1 | $44.80 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NXLYE4G/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| Gigabyte GA-Z170X-UD5 ATX LGA1151 Motherboard | $171.49 | 1 | $171.49 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B012N6EW6G/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| Corsair Vengeance LPX 32GB (4 x 8GB) DDR4-2666 Memory | $129.99 | 1 | $129.99 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00OTJZTZE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| Samsung 850 EVO-Series 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | $97.99 | 1 | $97.99 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00OAJ412U/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| Hitachi HD​S723020BLA​642 | $58.00 | 3 | $174.00 | EBay
| EVGA GeForce GTX 1070 8GB FTW Gaming ACX 3.0 Video Card | $459.99 | 1 | $459.99 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01I60OGUK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| EVGA 850W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply | $90.39 | 1 | $90.39 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KYK1CC6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| XFX AMD Radeon HD 5450 1GB | $29.99 | 2 | $59.98 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005IUW7YE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| PWM Female to 4 x PWM Male Computer Case Fan Splitter | $6.50 | 2 | $13.00 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DYQRFY6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| Sabrent 2.5" SSD & SATA Hard Drive to Desktop 3.5" | $12.99 | 1 | $12.99 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00UN550AC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| 80MM 5000RPM Fan | $0.00 | 2 | $0.00 |
| 92MM 5000RPM Fan | $0.00 | 4 | $0.00 |
Monitors | | | | |
$744.66 | Seiki Pro SM28UTR 28-Inch 4K UHD 3840x2160 | $195.69 | 1 | $195.69 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B013XWQF28/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| AOC e2460Sd 24-Inch Widescreen LED Monitor | $142.99 | 3 | $428.97 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C99MUHQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| Dell 17" 5:4 | $30.00 | 4 | $120.00 | EBay
Cables | | | | |
$137.77 | Cable Matters Gold Plated DisplayPort to DisplayPort Cable 10 Feet | $11.99 | 1 | $11.99 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005H3Q5E0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| Cable Matters Active DisplayPort to DVI Male to Female Adapter | $19.99 | 2 | $39.98 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EDT01TO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| DVI Male to Female 90 Degree Adapter Connector | $4.43 | 3 | $13.29 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008X0ZJZ0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| 15ft 28AWG CL2 Dual Link DVI-D Cable - Black | $10.47 | 3 | $31.41 | https://www.monoprice.com/product?c_id=102&cp_id=10209&cs_id=1020902&p_id=2760&seq=1&format=2
| 15ft Super VGA M/M | $5.69 | 4 | $22.76 | https://www.monoprice.com/product?c_id=102&cp_id=10201&cs_id=1020101&p_id=3622&seq=1&format=2
| 15ft USB 2.0 A Male to A Female Extension | $1.87 | 5 | $9.35 | https://www.monoprice.com/product?c_id=103&cp_id=10303&cs_id=1030304&p_id=5435&seq=1&format=2
| 25ft hdmi cable | $8.99 | 1 | $8.99 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00SKVMHI4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Desk Accesseries | | | | |
$263.49 | Perixx PX-5200 Cherry MX Blue | $72.91 | 1 | $72.91 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NY45NCY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| Logitech C310 Webcam | $31.93 | 1 | $31.93 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003LVZO8S/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| Lapel Mics | $6.50 | 1 | $6.50 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005DJOIHE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| FingerPrint Reader | $12.58 | 1 | $12.58 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000HHHP7C/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| Mouse Pad | $8.99 | 1 | $8.99 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GB0IF50/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| Headset Func HS260 | $79.99 | 1 | $79.99 | https://www.amazon.com/FUnc-FUNC-HS-260-1ST-fUnc-HS-260/dp/B00HH3H83U
| Altec ACS 54 - Speaker | $0.00 | 1 | $0.00 |
| Logitech G700S | $50.59 | 1 | $50.59 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BFOEY3Y/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Audio Accesseries | | | | |
$58.33 | BEHRINGER MICROAMP HA400 | $24.99 | 1 | $24.99 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000KIPT30/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| 5-Pack 6.35mm Male to 3.5mm Female Adapter | $7.99 | 1 | $7.99 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00XAQD4YA/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| 3.5mm Male to 2 x 3.5mm Female Splitter Cable | $3.99 | 1 | $3.99 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0081ZBNI4/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| Coupler 3.5 mm Female - 3.5 mm Female Stereo or Mono | $3.93 | 1 | $3.93 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000068O4N/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| 3 feet Slim 3.5mm Stereo Audio Cable - M/M | $2.71 | 2 | $5.42 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004G3UK5C/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| 3-Feet 3.5mm Stereo Male to Female Extension Cable, 5-Pack | $12.01 | 1 | $12.01 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00SWOJLSS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Lighting | | | | |
$86.88 | Studio Designs Swing Arm Lamp Black | $24.75 | 2 | $49.50 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00I2S7MHQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| Lutron TT-300NLH-BL Credenza Lamp Dimmer Black | $14.83 | 1 | $14.83 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00024BJZE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| Triple Outlet Swivel Adapter, White | $3.27 | 1 | $3.27 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000HJBENG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| Daylight LED Light Bulb 15W | $9.64 | 2 | $19.28 | https://www.walmart.com/ip/Great-Value-GVRLA1850ND-Great-Value-LED-15W-A19-Light-Bulb/38596922
Cable Managment | | | | |
$18.81 | 100 Velcro Ties | $5.00 | 2 | $10.00 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001E1Y5O6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| 100 Releasable cable ties | $2.47 | 3 | $7.41 | https://www.monoprice.com/product?c_id=105&cp_id=10520&cs_id=1052012&p_id=5795&seq=1&format=2
| Cable Clip nais | $0.70 | 2 | $1.40 | https://www.monoprice.com/product?c_id=105&cp_id=10520&cs_id=1052006&p_id=5834&seq=1&format=2
Power | | | | |
$53.13 | Monster MP AV 750 Audio Video PowerCenter | $18.99 | 1 | $18.99 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004ETIKH8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| AmazonBasics 6-Outlet Surge Protector Power Strip 2-Pack | $12.99 | 1 | $12.99 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00TP1BWMK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| 3 Outlet Single-Tap Wall Tap | $4.00 | 2 | $8.00 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007XQORTO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| 15ft 16AWG Power Cord Cable | $5.20 | 1 | $5.20 | https://www.monoprice.com/product?c_id=102&cp_id=10228&cs_id=1022801&p_id=5287&seq=1&format=2
| 10ft 18AWG Right Angle Power Cord Cabl | $2.65 | 3 | $7.95 | https://www.monoprice.com/product?c_id=102&cp_id=10228&cs_id=1022809&p_id=7677&seq=1&format=2
Network | | | | |
$33.98 | TP-LINK 8-Port Gigabit Desktop Switch | $22.99 | 1 | $22.99 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001EVGIYG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| 5-Pack, Cat6 Ethernet Patch Cable in Blue 3 Feet | $10.99 | 1 | $10.99 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C2B81K6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Monitor Mount | | | | |
$215.27 | Arm wall mount | $17.54 | 3 | $52.62 | https://www.monoprice.com/product?c_id=109&cp_id=10828&cs_id=1082821&p_id=12232&seq=1&format=2
| Top wall mount bracket | $4.80 | 4 | $19.20 | https://www.monoprice.com/product?c_id=109&cp_id=10828&cs_id=1082821&p_id=3005&seq=1&format=2
| Center Monitor Mount | $7.99 | 1 | $7.99 | https://www.monoprice.com/product?c_id=109&cp_id=10828&cs_id=1082821&p_id=4564&seq=1&format=2
| 2x8 | $7.47 | 3 | $22.41 | https://www.lowes.com/pd/Top-Choice-Common-2-in-x-8-in-x-10-ft-Actual-1-5-in-x-7-25-in-x-10-ft-Lumber/4082916
| 2x4 | 2.55 | 1 | $2.55 | https://www.lowes.com/pd/Common-2-in-x-4-in-x-8-ft-Actual-1-5-in-x-3-5-in-x-8-ft-Stud/1000074211
| 3" clamp | $5.98 | 6 | $35.88 | https://www.lowes.com/pd/IRWIN-QUICK-GRIP-3-in-Clamp/50214643
| 4" Hinge | $2.81 | 2 | $5.62 | https://www.lowes.com/pd/Gatehouse-4-in-H-Oil-Rubbed-Bronze-Interior-Exterior-Mortise-Door-Hinge/4772785
| Wood Screws | $9.00 | 1 | $9.00 | Lowes
| Assorted brackets/hardware | $25.00 | 1 | $25.00 | Lowes
| Case Rack Mount | $35.00 | 1 | $35.00 | EBay
Misc | | | | |
$35.97 | Steam Link | $19.99 | 1 | $19.99 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B016XBGWAQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| Bluetooth Adapter | $7.99 | 1 | $7.99 | GRANDCOW Bluetooth 4.0 USB Adapter Dongle for Windows 10/ 8.1 / 8/ 7 / Vista / XP
| 19 Key Numeric Keypad | $7.99 | 1 | $7.99 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005DJSAAU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Hey Guys, I'm trying to create a some-what cheap and MODERN set up for myself with multiple use (but limited channels in the receiver, so I found a receiver with Bluetooth option) and high convenience... Am I missing anything? Or is there anything I should add?

Cheap Bluetooth w/ Limited Channels Receiver

Turntable, and I really love this one.... Really Jacks Up Price

Speakers that come with wire, but adding a spool from amazon anyways...

Wire and Plugs

Do I need anything else? Hi-Fi amp or something? The turntable comes with a phono-preamp and the speakers look decent and are at my price range. Any tips on how to set this up as well? Including the best way to use the plugs or if I should get different plugs.

With the current prices of this post, the overall price is... $462.88 USD and W/O the turntable, it is $213.88 XD

Replacement Turntable that is affordable which puts the new price at $298.88

Give me about an hour and I'll edit this comment with store links to what I got.

Edit: Here is the list

1. Receiver/Amp This is very basic and will only support the bookshelf speakers themselves. If you want to add a sub or center, your going to need a full on stereo receiver. WARNING - when plugging in the banana plugs into this receiver, i had to force them in a bit to make them stay in. I thought I broke it, but my friend who recommended me this receiver said thats how his is too. so if the banana plugs go in weird, its ok :).
   
   
2. Audio to RCA adapter. This is the wire to hook up to your PC. This could vary per setup. My setup goes from speakers to receiver, then receiver to PC with this cable. You could use RCA to optical cable as well. You have to make sure that if your PC is hooked up to your TV or monitor via HDMI to change the Audio input from hdmi to speakers.
   
   
3. Speaker wire This is how you connect the speakers to the receiver. and the best way to do that is with banana plugs
   
   
4. Bananna Plugs - Any kind will do and each banana plug hooks up to the wire differently. Some come with instructions, others you might have to google. I had to look at amazon reviews to see how mine worked.
   
   Total - about 40 - 50 depending on where you get your stuff.

I ask because it depends on what you have. For various reasons, even though I have a receiver with multiple inputs, I wanted to have three sources run into one input but with the option to switch between the three sources easily. For that purpose, I bought this. It works perfectly. It was cheap, and easy to understand, set up, and use.


But, like I said, it depends on what the connection is like to the speaker.

I have been using this one for about half a year with a lot of success. I also bought a big pack of AmazonBasics long HDMI cables to go with it. I think at the beginning I had one issue with a screen flickering, but I unplugged and replugged and I haven't had an issue for a long time. My real issue is when I'm playing PS4 in the morning and my PS3 comes on to auto-update and this switcher auto-switches to the PS3. Gah! Wait a min switchy thing. Just have to push the button on it to force switch when that happens. I like it so far.

https://www.amazon.com/Kinivo-501BN-Premium-wireless-adapter/dp/B0049SCB2Y

If it helps, I have a PS4, PS3, Steam Streamer Box, PS2, and Wii all plugged into it going into a Samsung HDMI TV (not 4K).

If you're curious, I have HDMI adapters in the Wii and PS2, so that's how that works. They also are great and I got them off Amazon, can't recall which obscure brand. Though they do occasionally have their issues since they're all weird knockoff checp things.

You're gonna need a splitter- Signal comes from the console into the splitter, then a line from the splitter goes into the CRT TV and a line goes into your capture card.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B010EIK6K6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This is one of the more commonly used splitters. If you look in the "Frequently Bought Together" section, you'll see some extra cables you'll need. There's also a I-o capture card in that section. It's a small, cheap japanese capture card that's super easy to set up and use, and comes highly recommended for streaming RCA consoles. If your setup with the RCA to HDMI converter doesn't work or seems laggy for any reason, you might want to give that one a try.

EDIT: In addition, DO NOT BUY a CRT TV online. Online sellers have caught on to the fact that CRTs are fashionable as "retro gaming TVs", and have been jacking up the price. If you don't have one, ask around. Check craigslist. Go to Goodwill or a similar "junk I no longer need" store. You should be able to get one for next to free. Another side note is that some TVs have a "Game" or "Input" mode that there is no button for on the TV. You'll need a universal remote from Walmart/Best Buy/etc to access it. In general with old TVs, the more recognizable the brand name, the better.

EDIT EDIT: With the proper settings, MANY games will not give you problems playing on a flatscreen modern monitor. That said, if it's a game that requires a lot of precise execution/has anything pixel or frame perfect, you're still better off with a CRT.

If the radio doesn't have an "AUX" mode, then this really isn't possible to do. Given your car is a 2000, it's highly unlikely an AUX port was even an option.

Two solid alternatives:

1. Purchase an FM Modulator, like this or this. They're relatively easy to install, and you can probably do it yourself. It basically works like an FM Transmitter, but connects directly into your antenna port for a much cleaner signal. It can also be switched on or off, so you keep full use of your radio.
   
2. Purchase an aftermarket head unit. It's certainly cheaper to do an FM Modulator, but upgrading to a good aftermarket head unit will make you happier in the long run. Especially with a stock head unit from 2000, you're bound to start having trouble with it at some point in the near future.
   
   Hope this helps!

I have a similar problem to yours but instead of a PS4, it's a PC. Basically, I have 2 monitors and I like to switch one monitor from PC to switch and viceversa and my monitors only have DVI and VGA ports. This obviously sucks because I can't switch the monitor output from DVI to HDMI which would have helped a lot instead of the setup i got. I do however got a speaker set that does allow for multiple inputs, so that will work great with my switch and PC in theory. I have a discrete audio card, you should be fine unless you want to route the sound from the PS4 using TOSLINK (I do believe it has one).

So, all I can tell you from my experience... before you buy something like this, is that you do check that the device will let you add an HDMI to DVI converter to the end. In my case (the one I linked) it did not work. I wouldn't get a signal working out with the adapter... shocking i know, because it even says that it won't work with a passive HDMI to DVI adapter on the amazon listing. Anyway, I kind of lucked out because I had bought a capture card in the past and all I have to do is route it to my capture card and use the passthrough function of it (which essentially rebuilds the HDMI stream? I have no idea). I can then use my HDMI-DVI adapter and it works perfectly. The caveat though is that my PC has to be on while I'm playing. Which isn't much a deal because I actually use both most of the time.

But anyway, you obviously shouldn't be buying a capture card for this (unless that's what you want, then the above setup should work fine?), if you do end up buying something like I linked (2+ hdmi switchs with audio extractors) and it doesn't let you use the adapter for HDMI to DVI for your monitor then you can probably get something like this. I haven't test it out so I can't tell if it'll work but it should be doing the same that my capture card is doing. Obviously, it would be best if you could get a 2+ hdmi switch to DVI with audio extractor but there's none i could find.

If you do end up with a setup similar to mine, know this:

1. You'll end up with 2 devices that need their own power supply and both of them will be on while you play.
   
2. You'll need a considerable amount of hdmi cables (I'm terrible at cable management)
   
3. When there's no source detected the switch will be actively searching for a HDMI signal and that somehow prevents monitors/TV sleeping functions. I think it will depend on your monitor and hdmi switch but in my case I have to turn off the monitor connected to the switch when i'm not using it.
   
   And at last, with the amount of money you'll spend on a speaker setup, hdmi cables, passive adapters and the HDMI shenanigans you can probably just buy a 30" inch smart tv for like $100 bucks. Hell, I'm sure you could find old as hell gigantic hdmi tvs for $100 or less. My step dad couldn't get rid of his old as hell 55" tv and had to actually pay money to get rid of it.

\> Can you split the signal.. run one signal to TV and another to capture device?


Yeah, but if you don't want signal loss on either volume or color/contrast/brightness, you need a splitter amplifier. I used this one in the past, it's good stuff.


Radioshack 1-in/4-out Composite/S-Video Splitter.


\> I'd just let OBS do any upscaling.


OBS doesn't really upscale. It just stretches whatever is being casted to it. All the signal modifications have to happen via hardware.


\> Now if you were trying to get the highest quality possible. Then you would probably need to mod the consoles to get a HD signal. Then you can just use a camlink or elgato to capture the HDMI signal.


For the best quality, you need to have a line doubler/tripler/4x in-line somewhere (for most FPGA consoles, they're built in). Otherwise you're going to have the pixel bleed that you see when plugging a SNES into an HDTV present in your captured signal. The line multipliers introduce scanlines in the signal making it look more crisp, like you're playing it on a CRT monitor.

Hi, I actually had the exact same dilemma as you and about a month ago went for a 2.0 setup.

In the past I've tried a variety of computer speakers and nothing cut it. I never tried a soundbar, but I am super happy with my 2.0 setup.

So here is my $200 set up (big thanks to Zeos for helping me learn and pick out the parts):

$109 manufacturer refurbished Denon AVR 1513 receiver:

http://www.accessories4less.com/make-a-store/item/denavr1513/denon-avr-1513-5.1ch-home-theater-receiver-3d-ready/1.html?_escaped_fragment_=specifications#!specifications

$80 Micca MB42x bookshelf speakers:

http://amzn.to/188rnsc

$9.43 Speaker wire:

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B006LW0W5Y/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=YEA53M3RQ14Z&coliid=I31E8R7IOVMB4E

This is the wire stripper I bought but it is no longer available for prime so I would get a different one:

http://www.amazon.com/Irwin-2078305-Vise-Grip-5-Inch-Stripper/dp/B000JNLUQ6/ref=sr_1_13?ie=UTF8&qid=1394413512&sr=8-13&keywords=wire+stripper

Maybe get this one (but any will probably be fine):

http://www.amazon.com/Gardner-GS-40-Milwaukee-Clipper-Stripper/dp/B00004WLJX/ref=sr_1_11?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1396936022&sr=1-11&keywords=wire+stripper

Lastly, banana plugs for the wires. Optional, but nice to have ($10.96):

http://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-109436-High-Quality-Copper-Speaker/dp/B0097JLQVC/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1394413889&sr=8-2&keywords=banana+plug

Total: ~ $250 with tax and shipping and whatnot.

One last piece of advice:

I originally tried the popular Lepai amp and hated it. I just couldn't get the volume I wanted from it.

You mean a bidirectional hdmi switch?

https://www.amazon.com/Bi-direction-Manual-Switch-Passthrough-Supports-DotStone/dp/B01L8LLP2G

• Will it work? Yes
  
• Have it used one? No
  
• How do I know it will work? I read the product description and plan to use the same switch to hook us a NES and SNES to one monitor
  
• What if it doesnt work? Return it
  
• But...I spent $X.xx what if it does not work? Again, return it and stop asking the same questions. Laziness isn't an excuse and judging by your experience with analog signals I'll wager your old enough to help yourself. Time and effort spent finding a solution is part of the experience! Yes someone else may have done this already, or you could be the first! Take a possible solution and come back to this community with the answer.
  
  Edit: Given you have the disposable income to purchase a snes classic and free time to play said games.... You have enough money for a hdmi splitter and enough time (if you get a factory defect/ D.O.A product) to return it for a functioning one. Cheers
  

OP, be careful with the suggestions given by /u/JeremiS55. If you are running HDMI from the PS4 you will need a powered switch - unpowered switches tend to have trouble with the PS4's HDMI output. Here is an example.

I have a similar setup at home, here is what I do:

• PS4, PS3, and PC on HDMI switch.
  
• PC audio on a dedicated set of speakers
  
• HD monitor on the output of the switch
  
• Second (SD) screen on PC's DVI out that is always used for the PC
  
• PS3/PS4 audio through HDMI to monitor's built-in speakers
  
  This lets me hear audio from the console while also listening to music or watching movies on my PC. The audio output won't "switch" with the HDMI switch - not a cohesive, single-output solution - but it's pretty easy to turn off the PC speakers if they're not wanted.
  
  Edit: I use this switch which I bought at Best Buy after having issues with my unpowered switch. I wouldn't necessarily recommend it over other options for your needs but it suits mine just fine.

Ok m8, so after researching more, looks like MB42X is one of the best one out there and the bad review is from people who don't have subwoofer and they expect lower frequency from this speaker since I'm already going to get a Dayton 1000 sub, I believe MB42X is going to perfect for me. especially reviews say it performs really good on mid-range which is important for me since I watch a lot of movies. so here is my final list, can you tell me if I'm missing something like if the banana plug is correct (and how many of them I need?), and do I need the cable (no cable comes with the speaker?) and check for the AMP if it's good enough.

• Dayton 1000
  
  
• MB42X
  
  
• AMP 100w Fosi Audio TB10A https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B076P2VS9H
  
  
• Banana Plugs https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-109436-Plated-Speaker-Banana/dp/B0097JLQVC/
  
  
• cable https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-16-Gauge-Audio-Stereo-Speaker/dp/B006LW0WDQ/

Do you already have a nice gaming PC?

$50 - Steam Link

• Details - http://store.steampowered.com/app/353380/
  
• Amazon link for cheaper/faster shipping http://www.amazon.com/Steam-Link-Pc/dp/B016XBGWAQ
  
• Can use a wide variety of controllers and will use the power of your gaming PC. Xbox360/XBOne/PS4/WiiUPro/SteamController
  

• Wired ethernet at your PC and at the TV is recommended.
  

  
  

  --------------------------
  

  
  

  Don't already have a gaming PC?
  

  
  

  
  

  If act like a console, but play anything available on PC:
  

  
  

  PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
  

  
  

  Type|Item|Price
  

  ----|:----|:----
  CPU | Intel Core i5-4460 3.2GHz Quad-Core Processor | $181.83 @ Amazon
  Motherboard | Biostar Hi-Fi B85N 3D Mini ITX LGA1150 Motherboard | $71.98 @ Newegg
  Memory | PNY Anarchy 8GB (1 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 Memory | $32.99 @ Amazon
  Storage | PNY CS1211 240GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | $59.99 @ Amazon
  Video Card | Gigabyte GeForce GTX 950 2GB Dual WindForce Video Card | $149.99 @ Amazon
  Case | Silverstone Sugo SG13B Mini ITX Tower Case | $39.99 @ Amazon
  Power Supply | EVGA 430W 80+ Certified ATX Power Supply | $32.74 @ Amazon
  | Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
  | Total | $569.51

CRT stands for cathode ray tube, AKA an old, big, heavy, tube TV. Retro gaming enthusiasts generally consider them the superior way to play retro game consoles.

Yes, the NES only outputs mono audio just like the AV port on the back of the model 1 Genesis. The model 1 Genesis does stereo out of its headphone jack on the front so you can pipe it into your TV or receiver using a 3.5mm to RCA plug adapter. If you want to plug the mono audio source of the Genesis or the NES into a stereo receiver or TV and get sound out of both speakers you will need to use an RCA Y-cable or splitter. Specifically you will need one with a single female RCA style plug on one end and 2 male RCA style plugs on the other. These can be fairly easily found on sites like Amazon and eBay. Be sure you get one with ONE female and TWO male connectors though.

Something similar to this: https://www.amazon.com/InstallerParts-Stereo-Female-Splitter-Most-Audio/dp/B008NCD5WC/ref=sr_1_7?keywords=rca+mono+splitter&qid=1568118716&s=gateway&sr=8-7

If you use a switch box for your consoles you may consider not even sending the audio to the TV unless you want to control the volume with the TV remote. I have all my retro consoles connected to an 8-way passive switch box. I send the video signal to the TV and I have the audio sent straight to my receiver. It’s just one less thing to add noise to your analog sound signal.

The passive switch boxes are fairly cheap and seem reasonably robust. They can be found on Amazon and eBay as well. I use an 8-way model but you can get 4-way models as well.

I use this one: https://www.amazon.com/Panlong-Switcher-Composite-Selector-Consoles/dp/B00KXVBB7C/ref=sr_1_4?crid=UBDETJBPTMBU&keywords=rca+box+switch&qid=1568118835&s=gateway&sprefix=rca+box%2Caps%2C154&sr=8-4

Idk, but back in the day when I had this kind of setup I had great luck with inline antenna bypass unit, the sound was near perfect. However, that might be more work than you're looking to invest into this.

I have an 01' but Im pretty sure that this, or something similar, will work and it looks pretty stock, you also need an RCA to 3.5mm adaptor, I got this one
this thing basically bypasses your FM antenna and gives you an aux input, I put mine under the climate control and the input and switch are hidden behind the DIN pocket

it looks like the antenna size might be different in the 06(i cant really tell), but there are adaptors

The LP120 and A2+ are all you will need to start spinning records.

You won't need an external preamp, because the LP120 has one built in. You won't need a receiver/amplifier because the A2+ have built in amplification. You won't need an equalizer, unless you want to adjust the audio frequency for some reason.

The only thing you may need is a passive switch box and/or a passive volume control. The passive switch box will allow you to hook more than one input source (turntable, mp3 player, etc) to your A2+ speakers. A passive volume control will allow you adjust the volume more easily than reaching behind the A2+ speakers each time you want to change the volume level.

The passive switch box (aka A/V switcher) is available at nearly any big-box or online retailer. The passive volume control can probably be found at multiple places as well. Links for reference:

http://www.amazon.com/RadioShack-Auto-sensing-Switch-5--2-out/dp/B00DSQMVKU/

http://www.amazon.com/C2G-Cables-28750-Composite-Selector/dp/B0032ANC8M

http://www.amazon.com/RadioShack-Composite-Selector-Switch/dp/B005LT1CXO

http://www.amazon.com/Axxess-AALC-Controller-Discontinued-Manufacturer/dp/B003FPD3IS

http://www.amazon.com/PAC-LC-1-Remote-Amplifier-Controller/dp/B0002J226O

A KVM is possible, but the big advantage of a KVM is that it not only allows you to share a screen across two sources, but also an attached keyboard and mouse. Unless you intend to use a keyboard and a mouse with your Switch, I'd go for a far less expensive, 2-port HDMI switch. That's all you need if you're only concerned about video. Plus, I'd argue it has more future utility. It'll be smaller, because it has less ports and the ports it has are smaller. You could bring it with you when you travel and hook multiple things up to HDTV's at hotels or friends' places. Plus, most newer displays have HDMI ports. Buying a DVI KVM (or even a DVI-only video switcher) is going to be more expensive and clunkier.

Here's an example of stuff that would work. I am not endorsing these products at all, I'm just picking the first well-reviewed looking hit from my search results (on Amazon):

search terms: "2-port HDMI switch"

looks good: DotStone HDMI Switch Bi-Direction only $8.. You won't get anywhere near that with a KVM.

and then, with search terms "HDMI to dvi", you could probably use 1 or 2 of either these:

HDMI to DVI (cable)

or these HDMI to DVI (adapter)

If you have a ton of extra hdmi and/or dvi cables, you might prefer the adapter, otherwise you could use it on its own in cable-form. Keep in mind that in a typical setup, the Switch's audio is going through the HDMI cable as well, and whether you used a HDMI switch or a DVI KVM/switch, the connection to your monitor is going to have to terminate in DVI, and that DVI won't carry the audio. Does your monitor even have speakers? Even if it did, you most likely won't get any audio over DVI. I haven't tested this myself, but I just did a little research and found you can use the headphone jack on the Switch, while docked, to get it's audio, so depending on what's going to be playing your sound, you might need one or more things from this list:

stereo miniplug cable (male to male) - for going from Switch to portable speakers or anything with a line-in

miniplug couplers - handy if you need to plug the above into another male cable

miniplug to RCA adapter cable - for going from the Switch to a stereo system or similar

​

​

I think the MB42X are a good match with the SMSL SA36. If you're in a larger area, the SMSL SA50 would be better. The SA36 is good for smaller rooms or at a desk.

You will need speaker wire. I just use AmazonBasics. You'll also need an RCA to 3.5mm cable. Once again, AmazonBasics is what I use for those.

This will be a huge increase in quality over the Bose. Stereo separation is a lot of fun, and just for that reason I think they'll be better. In addition, the detail retrieval of the Miccas is better. You'll be hearing stuff in music that you didn't even know was there.

So, here's the shopping list:

Micca MB42X

AmazonBasics Speaker cable

SMSL SA36 or SA50

RCA to 3.5mm

Banana plugs are optional, they just make it easier to plug in and unplug the cables.

You can use a knife, but wire strippers might be helpful to strip the cables.

EDIT:
You might also consider an HDMI switch. which will allow you to just click a button and switch between PC input and PS3 input. Most of these (Unless expensive) don't include any alternative audio option, just HDMI <-> HDMI

.....

EDIT 2:
If you JUST want to record the video on your PC, and don't want to display it live, any capture card will do, whether internal or external, and is just about the only way to go - very, very few video cards have bidirectional HDMI ports, so you likely only have output on your PC

.....

The linked item (The Easycap) is along the right lines, but not quite there. The PS3 will not allow dual video output in this manner. it only supports one output, and you can only switch between the two, not have both.

The better way is to stick with HDMI, but install a video capture card with HDMI passthrough in your computer. Plug PS3 HDMI into the capture card, and plug the cards output to your monitor. I know they can be expensive, but it's the proper way in this case. The one I linked is relatively nice, there are probably cheaper options with passthrough capability - I just don't feel like searching through results for the best bang/buck ratio.

This should also allow you to use the capture card's audio output (3.5mm on this card) to connect to your speakers for sound that's pulled from the HDMI - meaning you can forgo the component cable entirely.

Without passthrough it'd still be possible, but you'd basically have to stream the video to yourself- meaning there's likely to be some video lag compared to passthrough or direct connection. The one you linked would require this kind of setup, which is not ideal.

This device already exists and you probably already have one... Don't you have an AV receiver? Just split the HDMI (using the splitter you said you already have) from the PS4 into two different inputs and then use your remote control to the select the one that you want to play-HDR or PS VR.

If you don't have an AV receiver and you don't want to spend the money on one, just get a HDMI switcher that works with a remote control follow the same steps but with the HDMI switcher instead. Kinovo some really good ones for less than $30, But there are a ton of different ones.

Specifically : PS4-> HDMI Splitter -> 1 hdmi to psvr processor and the 2nd one to either an AV reciever or something like this: Kinivo HDMI Switch 301BN Premium 3 Port Wireless Remote & AC Power Adapter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0049S6ZUS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_IpBCyb6BYC3J6

Then have the psvr HdMI out also go to a seperate input on the AV Reciever or the HDMI switch.

The output from the AV Reciever or HDMI switch goes to the TV. Both the AV Reciever and the HDMI port can be controlled by a universal remote - i use a logitech harmony but you can use almost any one.

Note: The Kinovo switcher in the link does HDR i think, but you should shop around to make sure. If it doesn't then choose one that does. If you use an old AV reciever then it may not do HDR but a newer one should.

>This cable functions as a signal transmitter, but NOT a signal converter.

No

You need a converter too, like this one:

http://www.amazon.com/Portta-WPETCHP-Composite-Converter-Scaler/dp/B008S7EYW2/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1417758155&sr=1-2&keywords=rca+to+hdmi+converter


Then, if you have a lot of RCA cable using consoles, and you don't want to mess with wires all the time, consider something like this:

http://www.amazon.com/MT-VIKI-Splitter-Selector-Adapter-MT-831AV/dp/B00DRGDBTG/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1417758265&sr=8-4&keywords=RCA+switch+box


With these 2 items, you can connect 8 things to an HDMI ready TV with RCA cables. It's going to look like crap though :( Best to just find an old CRT monitor.

To start you need an integrated amplifier. Here's the one recommended in the purchase help thread. This unit will provide power to the speakers so they can play back audio.

Next you need a cable that runs from your phone's headphone jack (assuming it has one) to the amp. Here you go.

Now you need to connect the amp to the speakers. Since you have a sub, you will run speaker cable from the amp to the sub, and then from the sub to each of the speakers. Here's 50 ft of speaker cable which should be more than enough to get the job done. You'll also need a wire stripper tool to remove the casing at each of the cabling, here you go. Would also recommend some banana plugs to make things easier but they aren't required.

This gets you live audio to your speakers. Had you done some research ahead of time you probably would have landed on buying active speakers instead, which would have saved you the need for all of this equipment except the $7 audio cable.

Thank you for all that! That was a useful YouTube video, too.

I had to make the purchases yesterday, since I'll be playing with actors in the studio on Monday. That said, I still have time to buy some things.

It's a comfort that I seem to be on the right track. The biggest difference between what I bought and your suggestions is that you suggested I buy the Dock-Kings and other pricier receiver/converting gear. I'd appreciate if you could look at my list of purchased items to determine if you think it will work, or if you see some some red flags.

I suppose in the long run, if this theatre show concept shows promise, we would then invest in more reliable gear, such as no-compression wireless HDMI tx/rx. For now, here it is:

​

4 cameras:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06Y5D8SPZ/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (1S LiPo)

2 x https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06Y56RL5P/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (1S LiPo)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0184DVN4G/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (2S or 3S LiPo)

​

3 receivers (should I buy different antennae?):

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0774SMGQN/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

2 x https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01H36AIGY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

3 AC/DC adapters for the receivers:

3 x https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01ISM267G/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

3S LiPo (for 3S LiPo camera and try battery-powered Receiver)

2 x https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07GF63645/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

Battery chargers

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00466PKE0/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/Battery-Charger-Channel-Inductrix-Connectors/dp/B074M6G2MD

​

Each receiver has an AV output + AV RCA cable. I'll plug in the RCAs from 2 or 3 receivers into this Switcher:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KXVBB7C/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

Using an RCA cable, connect the Switcher's Output to this RCA to HDMI converter:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07KTDG177/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

Then HDMI to projector.

​

Ta-da?

>Hmm.. here are the plugs: Monoprice 24k Gold Plated Speaker Banana Plugs, Closed Screw Type (5 Pairs) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0097JLQVC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_86k8QtboC1QsA

Yup, those are mine as well.


>And here is my wire: C&E 100 Feet 14AWG Enhanced Loud Oxygen-Free Copper Speaker Wire Cable, CNE62761 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009EADB2Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_Sy9NGh8nFOROC

Same type of wire as well just 12AWG(14 is fine though.)

>Do I have to fan it out so it's really spread out ? Like no wires bunched together ?

Exactly. Plus make sure you're threading the 2 parts together gently with your fingers at first then apply more force once you get past the threads to the flat part with the wire. I check them once a month or so to make sure they haven't loosened up which is common for banana plugs. Not a big deal. Just tighten them down and go back to business.

I think those speaker stands you can do better for like 10 bucks more.
Now when it comes to AVR there is better option with really good discount like yours MSRP 300 the one bellow MSRP 550 and only like 40 bucks more with plenty of features and definitely a step up is Yamaha TSR 5810 it's only $209 and much better than that entry level receiver you picked.
Has even Atmos in and all the goodies in case you expand later.

Speaker wire is fine but for neater connection maybe add for 7 bucks banana plugs

I have a Toshiba MD20F52 that I picked up at Goodwill a while back. Need to do a few color adjustments before choosing to go further, but had a question for the future of the set. Currently, I only really use my SNES (and very rarely N64 and GC), with S-Video going into a splitter (https://www.amazon.com/RadioShack-4-Output-Component-Distribution-Amplifier/dp/B010EIK6K6), with composite out to the TV and S-Video out going to a video capture device (this looks better than just composite from the console to the TV). Would it be worth trying to add S-Video to the set, and if so, what would that process look like? I haven't found a lot of information on this set online. Thanks!

E: Fixed link

I know it's been a month, but why do want 8 component inputs? This page has a list of consoles that do component output. Only 4 of the consoles on that list can't do HDMI (that are consoles people actually care about, sorry Zeebo): Gamecube, Wii, PS2, XBox. For everything weaker there is composite or S-video (or RF) and for everything stronger there is HDMI.

So to solve the problem I just created: here is a cheap 4 input component switcher. I have one that has the same functionality but a slightly different look and it is serving me well. I can just press the button on the front to choose the next input.

I guess the reason I am posting is because I recently bought a Pelican System Selector Pro and realized that it doesn't convert anything. If you want to plug component and composite things into it you will need a special cable to be able to send the audio to the component and composite inputs on your tv. And you would need a second special cable if you wanted to do S-Video at the same time as the other two. I.e. I would still be using three of my tv's inputs but they would all be coming from one device. I didn't see how that would be any different from my current setup except that it would be more confusing to figure out which input on the tv to turn to.

If I haven't convinced you, I returned my PSSP today and it should be back at the seller in two or three days. I imagine he is going to re-list it so here's a link to the seller's storefront.

I am planning to replace my current composite switch with one of these 8 input selectors. Then I want to add a 5 input HDMI selector to round out the whole deal. Composite, component, HDMI. I don't forsee needing to buy more switches for a while after that, but I only have 10 consoles right now.

It's "simulated surround sound" as with any headphones. But it uses the dolby bitstream over the optical signal. It does a very good job with directional sound (not great at above/below but excellent at 360 degrees around you) and it just sounds much better than 2.0 stereo all around.

The Mixamp plugs into the PS4 with an optical cable for system/game sound and with USB for power and chat function. Then my Sennheisers and Zalman mic plug into the headphone port on the Mixamp with the adapter we've discussed (I think the Mixamp actually came with one of those adapters IIRC).

I also have a small audio hub ran inline with my mic just for the mute function. But that's not required. Seen here...

http://www.amazon.com/Speaker-Headset-Switching-Manhattan-172851/dp/B000K8PH8C/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1451260216&sr=8-1&keywords=Audio+hub

1 and 2 are great ideas, definitely going to have to look into doing those.

as for 3 i already have some decently long cables

for 4, i have an 8-way rca jack and a 5 way hdmi switch

for 5, i have a case for controllers and remotes, its just on another wall so you cant see it.

for 6, both of the power bars are 10 port, and both have switches. the idea of vampire power drain is something i really didnt take into consideration, so i will definitely look into that.

thanks for all your ideas and feedback! :)

I can’t seem to find one on Amazon at the moment, but back in the day I bought a 4 input AV (you know, the yellow and red/white RCA connections) switcher that had an IR remote control, with this I was able to automatically switch it with a Logitech Harmony remote. By the end, I was using it just to switch audio into my amplifier,

Anyway fast forward to today with home automation. If I was in your shoes I’d get that exact same switch and use a Broadlink RM Pro with Home Assistant to Control the input source selection via IR commands sent from Home Assistant.

There was another passive switch I had before the one with the IR Control (I got tired of getting up and changing it) it was literally passive and the press of one of the 4 buttons would connect the RCA connections to the output connection terminals. Maybe a switch like this could be taken apart and connected to a bunch of relays controlled via your Pi’s GPIO.

Edit: here’s the passive switch that could be taken apart and wired to relays: C2G/Cables to Go 4x2 S-Video + Composite Video + Stereo Audio Selector Switch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0032ANC8M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_vnWNBbSJWG6VM

For digital audio you can get devices like this to convert it to analog and then connect it to the passive switch: PROZOR Digital to Analog Converter DAC Digital SPDIF Toslink to Analog Stereo Audio L/R Converter Adapter with Optical Cable for PS3 Xbox HD DVD PS4 Home Cinema Systems AV Amps Apple TV https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KNNSKV0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_5pWNBbPM4GDN8

(This is what I did back in the day with the third generation Apple TV’s optical output)

Most SD capture cards are intended for ripping VHS tapes to your PC. They're not intended for gaming. You'll never find one that will let you play on a PC monitor without display lag.

The solution is to get a television, and a splitter like this.

For a SNES your best bet is a CRT television, which you can get on craigslist for like $10 if you live in North America.

>980Ti DisplayPort > DisplayPort to VGA adapter > VGA to component conversion box > RF modulator (component to coax) > coax port on TV

A/V guy here.

I think I could have saved you some trouble.

Here are the steps I would have taken:

Edit: u/Egleu pointed out that an RF modulator is still required. Sorry but I'm a stoner.

-Get an HDMI to Composite adapter like [this] (https://www.amazon.com/ViewHD-Composite-Converter-Include-Adapter/dp/B00LK95VNQ)

-Get an RCA to BNC cable like [this] (https://www.amazon.com/SinLoon-1-8Meter-coaxial-Surveillance-Security/dp/B01M323UP7/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1486089391&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=rca+to+bnc&psc=1)

-Get a Female BNC adapter to RF adapter like [this] (https://www.amazon.com/Bluecell-pcs-Male-Female-Adapter/dp/B00QPN7YYQ/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1486089426&sr=8-6&keywords=bnc+to+rf+adapter)

-Get an RCA to RF adapter like [this] (https://www.amazon.com/RCA-Compact-RF-Modulator-CRF907R/dp/B0014KKV7W/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1486167190&sr=1-1&keywords=rf+modulator)

Plug everything in and it should work. Btw, you want to use the Yellow RCA from the HDMI to RCA adapter.

Tip: Screw the RF adapter onto the RF input on your TV first. Then all you have to do is twist the BNC part of the cable on instead of trying to twist that tiny little nut with your fingers while the cable is attached.

Can't offer any help on what you bought, but can recommend the approach I took to this....

FM Modulator

Pair that with a Bluetooth receiver and you can even have Bluetooth music at the flip of a switch. Have been using it for years, works excellent

Edit:

You'll probably also need this too... look into it... relatively easy install

If you're a hip hop fan you're probably going to want something with a sub. I see a few options for you.

1. Computer speakers - Altec Lansing Octane $85 This will meet your needs but may need a converter to hook up the TV depending on what audio outputs your TV has. This is more for a computer/phone on a desk.
   
   
2. Shelf system - Sony MHCECL99BT $170 This guy pretty has all your bases covered. FM, CD, Bluetooth, included sub and aux in. Again you might need a converter to get the TV hooked up but that just depends on the TV.
   
   
3. Assembled System - probably the best way to go for your money as you can use the speakers to build a HT as you move forward. However without going with an AVR you limited to one input. You'll have to switch out cables when you want to switch sources or get a switch box
   
   

• Amp - SMSL SA 50 $66
  
  
• Speakers - Micca MB42x $80
  
  
• Sub - Dayton Sub 800 $85
  
  
• Speaker wire $10

Hey guys, a couple of quick questions about some really basic networking:

1. There's a sale on Steam Links on amazon right now that I want to jump on. I'm aware that it works best hard-wired to your router, which my PC is also hardwired to. So, if I'm not mistaken, I need a network switch so that I can wire up my TV and my Steam Link both. Is this model what I need? I don't see the input port.
   
   
2. This is my current modem/router, which I rent from my ISP. It hits the speed tests in full (I only get 100mb/s internet here), so I haven't really thought about replacing it. Should I though, if I'm wanting to do the Steam Link thing with low latency, or is that not going to be as big of a factor?
   
   Also, if someone could very simply ELI5 network switches for me, that would be awesome. From what I understand, they can't all run at full speed at the same time, right? Not that that's an issue for me, I'll only be using one device at a time. I'm just curious.

I splurged and got a little pricier one: http://amzn.com/B0049SCB2Y

I was going to get a cheap 3 input one, but the 3 input from this brand wasn't much more. And then once I had that it wasn't much more for the 5 input. I too had three devices and one input, so I decided to get the 5 input switcher in case I added a device in the future. Now I'm glad I did since I'll be adding a chrome cast.

I've only had it for a few weeks so I can't give you a long term review, but so far it's worked great. I just have my Wii U and PS3 plugged into it right now and it automatically switches between the two. I don't think it will work with a Roku though, because the always on screensaver thing will make the switcher think it's always playing something. It comes with a remote control to switch manually. My TV has 3 inputs so I'll be putting the chromecast in one, Roku in one, and the switcher in the other for all my gaming systems and cable box.

Yes pretty much. If you want a monitor to share the PC and Xbox output, the you need a HDMI switch that supports 2 or more input and outputs to 1.

Just found this on amazon, this might do the job for you

HDMI Switcher 2 Ports Bi-direction Manual Switch 2 x 1/1 x 2 HDMI Hub-HDCP Passthrough-Supports Ultra HD 4K 3D 1080P By DotStone

It has good reviews too

> Because he enjoys playing on his Xbox from the comfort of his couch, and doesn't want to deal with the hassle of hooking his PC up to his TV.

> Or he is like me, and his PC is having issues and he would rather have the reliability and potentially better graphics than his older PC.

> I have purchased many games for my PS4 that I own on PC, just simply be cause I prefer playing some games on my ps4.

https://www.amazon.com/Steam-Link-Pc/dp/B016XBGWAQ

https://www.amazon.com/Switcher-Bi-direction-Hub-HDCP-Passthrough-Supports-DotStone/dp/B01L8LLP2G/ref=sr_1_4?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1521397665&sr=1-4&keywords=HDMI+switch&dpID=51NuwF1AMCL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

Looks like you don't have to plug it in with just two. HDCP is an encryption method. I have a switch that passes HDCP but only when external power is applied. Its was like 10 bucks extra for the plug. But the one I listed above claims to do HDCP pass through without the need of external power so It looks like your in luck on that end.

Get some banana plugs from Best buy. Easy to put the wire in them. Then just plug the banana cables into those holes. I got these. Work great! http://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-109436-Copper-Speaker-Banana/dp/B0097JLQVC/ref=sr_1_4?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1462989207&sr=1-4&keywords=banana+plugs

an hdmi switcher. Here is one http://www.amazon.com/Tonor-Black-Switcher-Splitter-Support/dp/B00SGWFCAM/ref=sr_1_1?s=audio-video-accessories&ie=UTF8&qid=1452158570&sr=1-1-spons&keywords=hdmi+switcher&psc=1.

I personally use this one: http://www.amazon.com/Fosmon-HD1832-Intelligent-Switcher-Supports/dp/B008D6YZXG/ref=sr_1_8?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1452158650&sr=1-8&keywords=hdmi+switcher

and love it. It has smart switch, so anytime I turn on a console it automatically switches inputs, in the rare case it doesn't it has a button on the device, and it comes with a remote. I have 3 consoles and a pc hooked up to one monitor with this thing and it's one of the best purchases I've made in a long time.

I'll be honest, I haven't had time to really do an A/B test on them, and my schedule hasn't afforded me a lengthy listening session, but I am much more confident in these new cables.

I had previously been using this wire! with these banana plugs. They did the job, and I will continue to use those cables when testing equipment for functionality or if I do a temporary setup for a friend or something.

The new wire is 12 AWG single-conductor. I had considered doing 14 AWG dual-conductor (honestly just for looks), but I decided to go with the cheaper option. I may upload some pics at a later date as my setup has changed and moved around quite a bit since my first setup post.

A switch is definitely your best option in this situation. Try this one out, I saw it posted on another sub with a similar situation. Hope that helps you out.

Ello! I have recently purchased an Elgato and I had the same issue as you. I run the Elgato's Out HDMI through one of these and mute my monitor. So far it works great and my sound doesn't seem any worse than it did on my computer. (on board sound if you have a sound card quality may vary :) )

Hope this helps!

Might be easier to just get an amplifier that has speaker-level inputs. The speaker wires from the head unit go to the amp, then run the amp outputs to the speakers you want. Usually the speaker level inputs on the amp have gain adjustments and some other switches.

For the mp3 player, I'd put an FM modulator between the antenna and the head unit. Like THIS. You select the radio frequency you want to 'inject' the aux signal at and tune to that station to hear it. I think some of these units even integrate bluetooth.

Also, check out /r/carav for possibly better info.

ive bought 2 of them over the past year or so.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B46XUQU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0030AZ44O/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

the one with the remote is the one i use now, both of them have auto sensing so if a device gets turned on, like a dvd player then it will switch it to. the one with the remote is a bit more useful as devices like the PS3, wont actually stop putting out an active HDMI signal. so the ps3 would have to be on port 1 and my xbox would have to be on port 2 so when i turn on the xbox it would auto switch to it, then once the signal is gone it would default back to port 1.

the one with the remote is nice because you dont have to worry about all that junk, and i never used the remote. i have a Dishnetwork universal remote and i learned the buttons for the input switching on that, the only downside is it doesn't seem very strong so pointing it directly at the little ir dongle is required.

This RCA switcher will take care of your RCA needs. I would then run the output from the RCA switcher into this [RCA to HDMI converter] (https://www.amazon.com/GANA-Composite-Converter-Adapter-Supporting/dp/B01L8GG6PW/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1510170964&sr=1-1-spons&keywords=rca+to+hdmi&psc=1).

Then maybe you'd want to consider picking up 2 of these 5x1 HDMI splitters. Just make sure you keep everything labeled so you know what's what. Hope that helps!

You'll need an rf modulator, like this one
https://www.amazon.com/RCA-Compact-RF-Modulator-CRF907A/dp/B0014KKV7W

If there's no coax connector on the back, you'll also need an antenna adapter like this one
https://www.amazon.com/RCA-VH54R-Matching-Transformer-VH54R/dp/B00005T3EY/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_23_lp_t_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=SCJBM46AQKFHHE22KS5W

That tv is really cool, good luck!

You're much better off going with a switch. I've personally bought several of these and they work great. I use one to swkfch between an Xbox and a ps4, and another to switch between an Xbox and a PC. They're cheap and they work great.

Hi there Steve! I had a similar predicament about six months ago when we set up a secondary HT system in our bedroom and I actually bought a different Konivo model that has three HDMI-outs. It's been working splendidly ever since; I should note that it replaced another splitter (the PORTTA PET0301S) that died after only a couple months, so the fact that our new model is working problem-free is a relief.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0049S6ZUS?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage

Edit: Forgot to mention the splitter I recommended is self-powered and also will auto-select the active port, which is definitely a nice addition.

Don't know if this is the right place to post.

• Looking to replace my wireless router Netgear WGR614v10 with something that has good range, is reliable and doesn't disconnect, and can handle 2 smart phones, a PS4, a Smart TV, a Chromebook, iPad, and 2 PCs. Really, I think anything will be an upgrade from this router that we have had for 10 years or so. I HAVE to use a powerline adapter in my room because I don't have any ethernet ports, but I experience drops frequently. Budget is no more than $100. How is the Nighthawk AC1750 or AC1900?
  
  
• If I want to connect my future GPU (probably a GTX 1070) to 3 monitors, how would I go about doing that? I see that some have 2 HDMI ports and 2 display ports but I don't know the first thing about display port. Should I look into a card with 3 HDMI ports?
  
  
• I want to connect my PS4 to one of the monitors, but the monitors only have one HDMI port (and a VGA and DVI port). Do I just need to buy a switch? I'm not against buying at least one new monitor that has multiple HDMi ports. If that's the case, can you recommend me a better 1080p 24 inch monitor?

I'm assuming, based on your other responses (and because you haven't specified) that you're hooking this up to a computer exclusively, and that you have limited desk space (meaning that standard bookshelf speakers won't fit). Also, I'm going to assume that you don't have SPDIF or optical connections, since you haven't said that you do.

My suggestion, then, would be:

• Micca MB42X, $80 on Amazon
  
• Nobsound Mini Bluetooth Power Amplifier, $31 on Amazon
  
• AmazonBasics Speaker Wire, $9 on Amazon
  
  At their price and size, the Miccas are great speakers.
  
  The Nobsound was reviewed by Zeos a while back, and he was pleasantly surprised. Note that you can attach the amp to your computer using USB, the 3.5mm jack, or bluetooth.
  
  The speaker wire is there just to remind you to factor that into your cost. You may already have some laying around, or you can probably find some cheaper than that, or in shorter lengths.
  
  Optional:
  
  
• The Nobsound comes with a 12v 5a (12×5=60W) power supply. So you're limited to ~25-30 watts per channel. This is more than enough for desk setups and small rooms, especially given the relatively efficient Micca speakers. But if you find yourself wanting more power, you can upgrade the power supply for around $15-$20.
  
• Banana plugs make hooking up speakers a whole lot easier. Monoprice banana plugs are $10 on Amazon. The only thing to pay attention to here is that most banana plugs will only accept 12 gauge to 16 gauge speaker wire.
  
• Subwoofer. Neither your Logitech speakers nor the Miccas really do low end (under 60 Hz). This enters an entirely separate discussion about price, performance, and what you want out of your setup, though. I will say, though, that with the Nobsound amplifier, you'll need a sub with high-level (speaker wire) passthroughs.

So, this is going to be somewhat of a silly setup, but you’re going to need an RCA splitter, an RCA to HDMI converter, and an HDMI splitter. I’ve used several hdmi splitters in the past and they’ve all been fairly solid, but I can’t vouch for the RCA splitters. Speaking from experience, the trickiest part is getting proper 5.1 audio if you have a surround sound system as most TVs only pass stereo. But, if you’re using the TV’s speakers you’ll be just fine anyway. Not sure what your budget is, but here’s something to get you started:


AuviPal 4-Way RCA Switcher 4 in 1 Out Composite Video L/R Audio AV Selector Box for DVD VCR VHS/AV Receiver/Game Consoles

and...

RCA to HDMI, GANA 1080P Mini RCA Composite CVBS AV to HDMI Video Audio Converter Adapter Supporting PAL/NTSC with USB Charge Cable for PC Laptop Xbox PS4 PS3 TV STB VHS VCR Camera DVD

Then as many male to male RCA cables as you need.

Finally the hdmi splitter:

HDMI Switch 4k,GANA Intelligent 3-Port HDMI Switcher,Splitter, Supports 4K, Full HD1080p, 3D with IR Remote

> I believe these speakers are active since there is a power switch

Yeah if they plug into the wall then they are powered.

> I assume I need some sort of pre-amp to boost the quality and volume.

EDIT: what adayinalife said, check your turntable for a built in preamp.

Yeah you do, Don't bother with tube preamps. A good quality one will be expensive and a cheap tube preamp will be a low quality gimmick. Just get a solid state preamp. The ProJect Phono Box range is worth looking at.

If you want to avoid manually switching you can get an audio selector box like this

Easiest cheapest simplest option is a 3.5mm splitter.

If you want to get fancy, you could get a 3.5mm switch box/selector with as many inputs as you'd like. Example 1 example 2

A switch box designed for rca would work as well, you'd just need an adapter cable from rca to 3.5mm, they're super cheap on Monoprice.

Your output from the HD60 pro is the same as its input. You've essentially added something in the middle of the connection.

Your computer isn't hooked up to your second monitor at all.

You could add a third monitor if you wish to keep your 2nd dedicated to the other HDMI source, or you could add an HDMI switch that you would plug your computer and HD60 pro into as input and then output to the monitor that would allow you to use it for both, but only one at a time.

Edit:
Fosmon HD1832 Intelligent 5-Port HDMI Switch with IR Remote and AC Adapter Supports 3D, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008D6YZXG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_jUsxyb17VX5Q7

This allows you to have 2 HDMI sources into your monitor (HD60 and PC) and toggle between them.

OK I totally forgot about these. It hooks into your fm antennae input. Pretty easy if you can do basic mods like drilling a hole for the switch. .. I suggest running it to your aux switch slots that most trucks have. Take pics of the interior if i don't make sense

http://www.amazon.com/iSimple-IS31-Antenna-Modulator-Aftermarket/dp/B002U5XPBE/ref=sr_1_1?s=car&ie=UTF8&qid=1449797521&sr=8-1&keywords=Fm+bypass+aux

Personally I run a Retrotink 2X and love the thing. As far as I know Mike Chi (The make of the 2X) is the maker of the RAD2X as well. So That's probably the best option (in the price range obviously).

You can buy HDMI audio extractors to get your line level out back. This way you can run audio however you want after the HDMI process. However, in your situation, it might just pay to go the 2X route and then never feed your audio into the unit and route it elsewhere.

Adding a subwoofer to studio monitors is difficult, especially for a moderate system like you are proposing. It won’t be pretty, unless splitting the RCA/TRS cables. You’d have to convert computer audio to RCA, the. Plug that into something like this, then go 2x RCA->TRS to speakers and 2x RCA to sub.

I would get a Rythmik LV12R (ported) or L12 (sealed) over that SVS, much better.

EDIT: It’s easier to go with SVS, as it has RCA outputs.

just ordered this one here http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00DRGDBTG?pc_redir=1409997011&robot_redir=1 had it for about a week now and it's awesome, works great. highly recommended

Some monitors allow for multiple inputs so that would be the choice you may want to look into. You can also purchase a switcher where you plug all inputs into one unit and choose between the inputs of choice :)

Something similar to this one: https://www.amazon.com/Fosmon-HD1832-Intelligent-Adapter-Supports/dp/B008D6YZXG/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1491504641&sr=8-9&keywords=input+switcher

Of course I'm sure there are better switcher options out there but that's what I retrieved on a quick amazon search haha

Here's a good, cheap switch that I like:
http://www.amazon.com/Kinivo-301BN-Premium-wireless-adapter/dp/B0049S6ZUS/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1419781384&sr=8-2&keywords=kinivo+hdmi

I use it to switch between all modern game consoles that currently live in my PC setup. Has been working great, had it for about a year or so. I've had other cheap china switches and my PS3 simply wouldn't play nice with those.
Edit: Didn't see you needed two outputs. I've got my hooked up to a cheap powered HDMI splitter, so there's one solution.

You don't want a splitter unless you want to have Destiny on both screens as the same time. If you want to choose which screen will display the image you need a switch/matrix that does 2in/1out or something like that. I've got a Rocketfish HDMI switch from Best Buy that I use and I haven't expereinced any lag that I'm aware of. But I'm using a pc monitor. Something like this should work for you.

I love monoprice, but I went ahead and bought this one:

4K@60Hz HDMI Switch 5x1 Awakelion Premium Quality 5 in 1 Out Switcher with IR Remote Support,HDCP 2.2,UHD,HDR,Full HD https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06WV5YJ6H/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_yJPSBbKNCCHEZ

Thanks for your help.

I have this one: link.

Works great with my harmony hub, after using it for a while and being impressed with it I even bought the 3 port version (also on amazon) for a different room.

He said it was in the software already, many devices are already in the Harmony database.

I bought this one back in 2012 and I still use it with my harmony, pretty sure it was already in the database.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0049SCB2Y

See the headphone lookin jack on the back labeled Ext Antenna? It's doable but you'll need some nutty adapter spaghetti.

• one of these - not sure where to get them these days but like this
  
• one of these
  
• and an rf modulator
  
  Put tv on channel 3 or 4 VHF and done.
  
  Good chance that it's only a black and white screen btw. Sony had portable color tvs of the same size back then but lesser known brands were B&W. There would also be more than three knobs on the back if it were color, those are the bare adjustments for grey scale.

No clue. Probably because it's a workaround. If you have 35 bucks to drop, I'd highly recommend this card:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00428BF1Y/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pd_S_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=19PXRWYDINS8Q&coliid=I2SHEBGBZQJW43

It's amazing quality, easy with drivers, etc. Works perfectly with OBS once you install the drivers, which there's a tutorial on how to do it in the amazon reviews (it's click a couple boxes, but it's all in Japanese lol).

I use that, with this splitter, and S-video. Here's an example of what it looks like with my setup: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RN9E1OSVgHo

I put this head unit in my accord recently and it's worked excellently. You can also get an antenna intercept like this and route it out the bottom of your dash and save some money. But I'd recommend getting another head unit if you're pulling the dash apart anyway.

Yes both are av switches. The one with s-video is http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00DSQMVKU/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1420291068&sr=8-1&dpPl=1&dpID=51uveTmBlCL&ref=plSrch&pi=AC_SX200_QL40 and the one with just composite is http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00DRGDBTG/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?qid=1420291068&sr=8-3&dpPl=1&dpID=41lebNURx6L&ref=plSrch&pi=AC_SX200_QL40

The S video switch has five inputs and two outputs, the composite switch has eight inputs and one output. The one with S video is autoswitching but requires power. If I had it to do again I would just buy two autoswitching S video boxes. They were cheaper and easier to use. Quality on both seems good.

I'm liking my Creative Fatal1ty headset, I'm hearing impaired so sound quality really doesn't affect me unless it's NOTICEABLY bad. I find this headset to be comfortable on my head and it works out pretty well. Also so I don't have to keep swapping between speaker and headset, I also purchased one of these to swap between the two with just a button press.

Good choice on an amp :). This route might be better anyway since I can't find any audio switches that has good reviews. You might go through more hassle troubleshooting with a switch than plugging/unplugging into an amp.

The only one I can find that has decent reviews

https://www.amazon.com/Speaker-Headset-Switching-Manhattan-172851/dp/B000K8PH8C

The easiest is probably going to be a composite video switcher, something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Panlong-Switcher-Composite-Selector-Consoles/dp/B00KXVBB7C

The video quality isn't fantastic, particularly on an HDTV, but it's way better than RF and all your consoles support it.

Good eye. Yes, that's a Cambridge surround system w/woofer I've had for years. It's perfect.

The white remotes are for Phillips Hue bulb sets. One is for the ceiling lights and the other for the light strip behind the desk.

The silver box is an audio splitter I use to select from two sound sources to feed to the Cambridge system: PC sound, or my Sonos system sound, using a Sonos Connect.

Wrist pad.

Your other option which I personally use is buying an s-video distribution amplifier. It helps maintain signal strength and gives the best clarity and results for both the stream and your CRT (unless you wanted to really go out and buy an upscaler). Essentially think of the powered splitter like a water pump where unpowered splitters are water lines to multiple homes. The pressure is maintained with a pump where as the multiple home connections will drop pressure. Another plus with the box is having the option of running multiple audio outputs without needing more splitters, which I use for my audio interface setup but you could also run the audio into speakers for casual play offstream.

This is the one I bought but there are a lot of other ones on amazon that have lots of positive reviews. I got this one only cause it had the remote as well.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0739GSKV2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_ZSn0AbCXEZY4G

Here is one with 5 HDMI ports
https://www.amazon.com/Kinivo-501BN-Premium-wireless-adapter/dp/B0049SCB2Y

but yeah an AV Receiver is probably the best bang for buck since you can plug in mostly everything into one device.

This is definitely possible, but depends on your current setup. If you are using RCA cables for your audio signal, a simple box like this should do fine. That box also handles video, but won't work for newer cables such as HDMI.

Once you get into digital audio and video things get more complicated, but it sounds like that shouldn't be an issue for you.

If you post exactly what audio and video equipment you have, I can be more specific.

For me, and I completely understand that this is a full throttle first world problem, it's about clutter and inputs. I already have 4 HDMI devices "connected" to a 3 HDMI input TV - and have to go pull cords when I want to use the extra one. A 5th would just add to that annoyance. That plus, more controllers I'd have to have laying around, more TV cabinet space I'd need to have to fit both devices... I understand these aren't deal breaking obstacles, but it would be nice to just replace one system with another and that be that.

Edit: took everyone's advice and got a switch. Just arrived: http://i.imgur.com/aDvMzUD.jpg

Here's the details of what I went with, for anyone curious:
Kinivo 501BN Premium 5 port High speed HDMI switch with IR wireless remote and AC Power adapter - supports 3D, 1080p
http://amzn.com/B0049SCB2Y

PORTTA PET0301S 3x1 Port HDMI Switch/Switcher 1080P Supports 3D with IR Wireless Remote Ultra High... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00B46XUQU/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_IA28tb1635VYP

Good reviews works great with ps4

Two options I can think of...

If your TV or monitor has a headphone out, grab a 3.5mm cable and run it from the screen to your speakers. Added bonus is that the speakers will then work for whatever you have connected to the screen, not just the Xbox.

Alternatively, you'll need to use a converter.

I have a HDMI switch that has a 3.5mm out, which can be used with a pair of speakers much like the ones you have (https://www.amazon.com/Proster-Extractor-Switcher-Converter-Include/dp/B073TTS9QG). They're relatively inexpensive, and don't degrade the sound quality.

But ultimately, whether you go with the screen headphone out, the HDMI converter or the controller, each of these three methods is effectively converting the signal somewhere down the line.

I've had good results with Kinivo HDMI switches and Harmony remotes. I haven't used the UHD ones, but the FHD ones work great.

Kinivo FHD HDMI switches

Kinivo 301BN (3x1)

Kinivo 501BN (5x1)

Kinivo UHD HDMI switches

Kinivo K300 (3x1)

Kinivo K500 (5x1)

You need a vga to composite video converter and an RF modulator. I’ve never seen them packaged in one unit.

You take the two units and daisy chain them, hooking the ‘coax out’ of the RF modulator to the TV. Then you turn the TV to channel 3 or 4.

It will look like crap. 640x480 resolution is highly optimistic, 320x240 is more realistic. Several resolutions will work but the quality of the display will make the finer details disappear.

Results will be highly dependent on the content, viewing distance and expectations. Low res photos will look ok if you stand back a bit. Text will not be legible except with large font sizes.

Good luck, here are some sample items like what you’d need.

Sewell Direct SW-22050 PC to TV Converter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002PXFJ2O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_I2HbBbWFBPHVD


RCA Compact RF Modulator (CRF907A) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0014KKV7W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_c6HbBbFPPREXX

Source: was geek in the 80s

A splitter would not work in this situation. You need an active HDMI selector switch, tons of them on Amazon if you search for that. This one seems to be pretty popular: https://smile.amazon.com/Kinivo-501BN-Premium-wireless-adapter/dp/B0049SCB2Y/

While battery powered transmitters do exist, the best solution for you is going to be a wired FM modulator. Hardwired behind the factory radio and gives you undisputed better sound quality than any transmitter ever could.

https://www.amazon.com/iSimple-IS31-Antenna-Modulator-Aftermarket/dp/B002U5XPBE/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=isimple+fm+modulator&qid=1571349152&sprefix=isimple+fm+m&sr=8-3

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B46XUQU/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I have this one and it works great. I have my chromecast and PS4 plugged into it. My favorite thing about it, is its ability to automatically switch sources if my ps4 is turned on.

Thanks mate. Probably will just use this one: https://www.amazon.com.au/Proster-Extractor-Switcher-Converter-Include/dp/B073TTS9QG

I'm really liking that it has usb power. Most likely my computer will be on anyway, so my monitor will be able to power something via usb. It also has optical out, which means I can save my analogue in on the amp for something later down the track!

Doesn't have 4k or 1440p at 60Hz though...

Just started doing this 2 days ago and so far have won

3 steam games ($60 combined)

Lifetime dvd software license ($50)

Magnetic Chore chart ($15)

Fosmon HD1832 Intelligent 5-Port HDMI Switch ($12)

Limited Edition Naismith Memorial Basketball Hall of Fame Tie

Someone can probably chime in with a better answer, but I'm in the same situation (2 computers, one main monitor). As far as hardware, pick up a simple switch from Amazon/ebay for about 10 bucks. The link is for one on Amazon for HDMI. If they are both DVI or VGA, you could probably find one on ebay for 3-5 bucks. They're called 'KVM switches', I believe.

Otherwise, what I am doing now is, I have my main PC attached to my monitor. On both computers I have TeamViewer installed (but you could use any 'remote desktop" software). Then you login using a generated ID and the monitorless-computer screen is sent to and mirrored/displayed on your main computer monitor.

Keep in mind, using a software solution instead of a hardware solution will cost memory resources.

EDIT: Now that I think about it, "Plex/Sonarr/Radarr/torrent downloader" probably all have a web interface. For example on any computer on your network go to

• http://[IP of media server]:32400 for plex
  
• http://[IP of media server]:8989 for sonarr
  
• http://[IP of media server]:7878 for radarr
  
• http://[IP of media server]:8181 for plexPy
  
• http://[IP of media server]:8112 for deluge
  
  Then you might very rarely have to actually use a monitor with the server. You might want to login to your router and give your server a static local IP. Otherwise to find it on the server, open terminal and type: 'ifconfig -a' or if that doesn't work, try 'ip addr'. show
  

I bought a 5x1 4K switch just for this purpose and it's been great. That way I have a single input to my 4K tv, but can switch between the sources with the remote that comes with the switch.

This is the one I got:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06WV5YJ6H

Make sure you get good high-speed HDMI cables for each connection, too:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GCGKI3O

​

These work great. Goes between antenna and radio for the best quality possible.

https://www.amazon.com/iSimple-IS31-Antenna-Modulator-Aftermarket/dp/B002U5XPBE

Most HDMI switches only changes the input based on power state changes and not on modern CEC commands that Chromecast uses when you start casting.

Chromecast is always on so it won't work, it will only forward the command to set the correct input on the TV and not on the switch itself, unless you're willing to pay more for a CEC-Enabled Switch. And I think at this point you should be looking to upgrade your TV/AVR so you can have CEC built in instead.

Then if you need more HDMI inputs, you can get a cheap one like this. Using it for more than a year and ARC and CEC passthrough works perfectly. It also switch back to the last active device in order when you shutdown one and never needed to use the remote!

Splitters are going to be more of like a 2 to one sort of thing and my experience are not as reliable, if you’re looking to use it for game consoles I’d definitely go with an HDMI switch box like this one and that way you can utilize auto-switching features (if you were playing your PlayStation last and then you come back later and want to play your Xbox, you can turn your Xbox on and it will automatically switch inputs). You can also get more consoles hooked up with a switchbox (most switch boxes are 3 in 1 out, I have a 4 in 2 out, some even go up to 8 in). Just a thought!

Another redditor had suggested This and it's been a great switch box, it has s-video inputs on all of them so you can get great quality out of it.

Get a GV-USB2 capture card! It's basically the go-to for standard definition console gaming.

He'll also need a video/audio splitter. I use this one and it works wonderfully. You'll need an extra set of composite cables as well. (That's just an example. Get whatever will ship on time for you)

If he wants to stream on twitch, consider getting him a webcam and mic. Let me know what your budget is and I can recommend some options for you.

I know it's been a few days since you posted this, but I have a question maybe you can answer. What is a good HDMI switcher? I had one from Amazon a while back that crapped out on me pretty fast, and I've been hesitant to get a new one.

Edit: This is the one I had.

How do I know what gauge to get? I this sufficient Wire, Bananas and Wire Cutters. I think I will skip the DAC for now and see how everything sounds? As I can always buy one later and add it in but how do I know if I need one?
Edit: Thank you for the help!

Someone told me about this when I asked the same question about my suburban. Haven’t ordered it yet to try but I like the idea

(https://www.amazon.com.au/dp/B002U5XPBE/ref=cm_sw_r_fa_awdb_c_Q2FNCbSR43HPF)

It’s an fm transmitter that wires behind your unit into the antenna. I would assume the reception would be superior with this setup as opposed to a cigarette lighter one

Yeah, I suppose a little rig info would have helped. I have a

Samsung js7000 suhd tv with one UHD port.

>PS4 pro > single Ibis input

>Ibis output 1 > second switch(to TV)

>Ibis output 2 > PSVR "TO PS4" hdmi port on processor unit.

>Processor unit to second switch(TV)

These and these are the cables I've tried in various combinations with the PS4 pro hdmi that came with the system.

Like I said, all of the hdmi cables from the ps4 to tv support RGB and HDR.

HDR is not supported on either channel of the Ibis switch on a tv that is HDR capable. Both channels on the switch shows that HDR is not supported and can not work due to the vr processor, which leads me to believe that the only signal being picked up is the vr processor, and not that of the ps4 pro.

http://www.amazon.com/C2G-Cables-28750-Composite-Selector/dp/B0032ANC8M?ie=UTF8&keywords=s%20video%20switch&qid=1463513498&ref_=sr_1_1&sr=8-1

i use this one, it works fine and i haven't had any issues with it. also, your SNES will have the most improvement over your other consoles, like a real noticeable difference. the N64 and Gamecube will have slightly better resolutions, but mostly just better colors.

I'm planning my PC setup, and I want to connect my PC to a TV, problem is I don't have enough HDMI slots to connect my PC, ps4, cable box and Nintendo switch, so I need an HDMI switcher, this is the one I found on Amazon; Kinivo 501BN Premium 5 port High speed HDMI switch with IR wireless remote and AC Power adapter - supports 3D, 1080p https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0049SCB2Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_iGHizb09E00MA Anyway my question is, will this work? Are there better options for a better price? Also, I am going to get a dedicated monitor down the line but until I have the money for it and I can find one I like, my TV is going to be my primary monitor, so no answers along the lines of "just buy a monitor"

And my point would be that those “deficiencies” don’t matter. Yes better hardware exists if you pay more, but do you really need those extra bells and whistles? My TV was $199 on Black Friday five years ago. It’s a 42” 1080p with vaguely acceptable built in speakers and two HDMI ports and a USB power port. At one point I experimented with using both ports, but quickly gave it up when I realized my Apple TV does everything I need. If it didn’t have two ports and I had two devices, like maybe a satellite box or a game console, I could make up for that with an $11 HDMI switch device.

I've had this one for about a year and a half. What I like about it is that one port is designated as the default port. If no other ports are passing signal, it is selected. When another source starts displaying signal, it switches to the new device.

This is good for devices like the AppleTV that tend to remain powered on. It's set as the default so when my Xbox is turned on, it overrides the AppleTV.

Cheap and effective.

Yes but you'll need some adapters.

You need to convert the display output of your mac to RCA Composite. Something like this might work: https://www.amazon.com/Tendak-DisplayPort-Thunderbolt-Composite-Converter/dp/B0196EAAF0

Then you'll need an RCA to RF modulator. https://www.amazon.com/RCA-Compact-RF-Modulator-CRF907A/dp/B0014KKV7W

After that it's just turning the TV on and tuning it to the correct channel, usually 3 or 4, and hoping the TV still works.

You can probably even put the two adapters fairly close to each other in the booth and run coax to the TV.

This is the best one you can get and works the best.

You need to have a HDMI Switch with a dedicated power supply, otherwise it wont run the signal for the PS4. Trust me, I had some trial and error till I found this one.

You understand correctly. Something like the Cables to Go audio/video selector switch or Recton VS1002 A/V switcher would work well, but have a look at some other options as there may well be something a little more compact or that looks better. Also search for "a/b switch". You could even use this tiny Sescom A/B switch.

https://www.amazon.com/GANA-Intelligent-Switcher-splitter-Supports/dp/B0739GSKV2

Nothing special, but does the job perfectly fine. It's fairly small and the remote is just added convenience.

If none of your consoles are modded for RGB, then S-Video is not a bad alternative. S-Video looks great for 240p consoles. Beware that the N64 might still look pretty bad without an RGB mod to enable de-blur, but as far NES/SNES/Genesis/PS1 and those consoles go, S-Video is pretty damn good! GameCube and PS2 will look alright through S-Video, not great. Another plus is that decent S-Video cables are a hell of a lot cheaper than decent RGB cables, so the 14N1U is a very good budget choice for going the S-Video route.

Just add a switch like this for your S-Video setup, and you're good to go: https://www.amazon.com/C2G-Cables-28750-Composite-Selector/dp/B0032ANC8M?ie=UTF8&keywords=s%20video%20switch&qid=1463513498&ref_=sr_1_1&sr=8-1

Of course, make sure the geometry, colors and contrast on the PVM you buy is decent. If not, it will be disappointing no matter the input.

Speaker wire for the speakers, digital coaxial or subwoofer cables for the sub.

It looks like binding posts for banana plugs for the speaker connections on the wall plate.

Amazon and monoprice are good places for speaker wire as well.

Banana plugs -5 pairs

Subwoofer Cable -8ft. There are plenty out there for cheap. Just search subwoofer cable.

50ft 14 GA speakerwire. The speaker wire connects to the bananaplugs.

Not a specific TV recommendation, but remember that you can just buy a cheap HDMI switch if the model you want doesn't have enough HDMI ports. At that budget that's a real possibility. Honestly, I would recommend one anyway because many will automatically detect what input is being used and switch for you.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008D6YZXG/

I use this one. Switches automatically as well as with the included remote. Had it about a year, works great.

Kinivo 501BN Premium 5 port High speed HDMI switch with IR wireless remote and AC Power adapter - supports 3D, 1080p https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0049SCB2Y/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_xQTfvb00CX835

Buy a HDMI Switcher. You can get some on Amazon that some with remotes.

Like this:

HDMI Switch 4k,GANA Intelligent 3-Port HDMI Switcher,splitter, Supports 4K, Full HD1080p, 3D with IR Remote

In the spirit of this sub, there is a circuit diagram included in that article that shows how to build a summing box :-)

I've never used one myself so I really can't speak to how cheap you can go without it being trash.

That being said, it's a super simple device so this will probably work fine: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073GWCRP3/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Well If I had 15 conference rooms I would probably do something a little more "official". Look into the wide world of Crestron and Extron products. If its on a conference table I would look at something like the Fliptop tied into an HDMI switch/scaler for your different digital and analog formats with a single HDMI running back to the screen. Of course you can always start going over the top by tying in audio and lighting but its all about $$$.

Or if you like quick and dirty, ScottRaymond has the right solution except put all the clutter under the table and get an auto sensing HDMI switch like this one

Source: A/V at a conference center is one of my hats

You could get powered speakers that have both optical and bluetooth inputs - like these:

​

https://www.amazon.com/Edifier-R1280DB-Bluetooth-Bookshelf-Speakers/dp/B0719C132V/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1550988904&sr=8-4&keywords=powered+speakers

​

Your TV likely has optical out - even if it doesn't you can use analog out. If your computer can output via bluetooth, then both inputs would be digital. There's also powered speakers that accept a USB connection.

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Problem with powered speakers is that it's hard to set up a sub. If you wanted to go with a sub as well, you could get this:

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https://www.amazon.com/rolls-SX45-Tiny-Stereo-Crossover/dp/B00102VWJK

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And run the low frequencies to the sub and rest to the mains.

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If you want to run a separate amp, I have heard that the TPA311X series class D amplifier chips sound good. See: https://www.amazon.com/Nobsound-TPA3116-Channel-Digital-Amplifier/dp/B00WTOAC1M

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Then run speaker level output to your sub, and from your sub back to your mains. You could use an RCA switcher to control inputs to the amp. Like:

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https://www.amazon.com/d/Selector-Switch-Boxes/Panlong-Switcher-Composite-Selector-Consoles/B00KXVBB3Q/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1550989665&sr=8-4&keywords=rca+switch+box

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(You won't need the video connections).

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If you don't want to replace your radio, but really want an aux cord - this is the best choice. It plugs into your antenna and won't get bleed through unless you're under the station.

It's not a splitter, you're looking for a switch. And yes, they exist on Amazon.

https://www.amazon.com/Awakelion-Switcher-Wireless-adapter-Supports/dp/B06WV5YJ6H/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1509739924&sr=8-3&keywords=hdmi+switch+hdr

I use it, works great.

Beware : I've bought 3 HDMI switches in as many weeks. All lasted 1-4 days before I had to return them. Only good thing from this experience is that even though I was refunded via Amazon Prime, one Chinese vendor is still sending me a free one. Although I suspect it will last as long as the others lol.

The one linked below has the accommodating vendor.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0739GSKV2/

Actually yes it can, technically anything that can be converted to HDMI can be played on a Xbox One including all Playstation consoles, all Nintendo Consoles and any media device you throw at it. It really is the all in one device.

http://www.amazon.com/Mini-Composite-CVBS-Converter-1080P/dp/B009A6PJKQ/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1376082378&sr=8-2&keywords=vcr+hdmi

To add even more support:

http://www.amazon.com/Portta-PET0301S-HDMI-Switcher-Support/dp/B00B46XUQU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1376082873&sr=8-1&keywords=hdmi+switcher

One of these:

iSimple IS31 Antenna Bypass FM Modulator for Factory or Aftermarket Car Radios https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002U5XPBE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_k2YVCb4TM22NZ

Basically it goes inline with your antenna wire, and then plugs into the stereo jack on your phone (as an interrupt). I haven't touched my radio in YEARS.
Tune to the station the device is set at (around 87.3 or something) and you're set.
It DOES (hardly) interfere with signal, but it's minimal and goes back when you turn it off. I have the power to mine go on when I turn my stereo on.


Pairs well with one of these, which allows you to rid of the wire all together by using bluetooth.

There are cheaper ones, but this is the one I've got.

Bluetooth Car Adapter with 2 Built-in Mics, 15 Hours Hands-Free Talking Bluetooth Receiver https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CPL947B/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_G4YVCb82Q0PTN

As a bonus, while you've got your dash disassembled, this works well too. Get rid of your cigarette lighter, and replace it with a permanent USB Quick Charge jack. This one is silver, but they have others.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07MNDDTP6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_PhZVCbD77DPB3

This is my current one https://www.amazon.com/Bi-direction-Manual-Switch-Passthrough-Supports-DotStone/dp/B01L8LLP2G/ref=redir_mobile_desktop?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&ref_=yo_ii_img

(Using my cell phone so I don't know how to hyperlink it)

I don't have the link to the last one. It was a Rocketfish from Best Buy. Thanks for the recommendation!

I pretty much have the same set up. After a lot of searching this is what I found and it works great. MT-VIKI 8 Ports 8-In 1-Out AV RCA Splitter Selector Switch Adapter MT-831AV by MT-VIKI http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DRGDBTG/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_hKF6tb0XEKTZA

I would use something like this, if you want a nice clean look.

http://www.amazon.com/iSimple-IS31-Antenna-Modulator-Aftermarket/dp/B002U5XPBE

So the reason this is needed is SteamVR gets confused when two headsets are plugged in at the same time...

These are the exact two bits I ordered:

https://www.amazon.com/Bi-direction-Manual-Switch-Passthrough-Supports-DotStone/dp/B01L8LLP2G/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1510945708&sr=1-3&keywords=hdmi+switcher&dpID=51NuwF1AMCL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-Individual-Switches-included-HB-UMP3/dp/B00TPMEOYM/ref=sr_1_5?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1510945749&sr=1-5&keywords=powered+3.0+hub

But any bi-directional HDMI switch, and any powered USB 3.0 hub that lets you turn on and off connections should work.

I tried plugging my two Rift cameras into the hub but Oculus software was spitting out "Poor Communication" issues, so those have dedicated ports into the mobo (and it's OK to leave them connected while using the Vive)

This will make QA across platforms a lot easier :D

>https://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B016XBGWAQ/ref=dp_olp_new?ie=UTF8&condition=new

Awesome, thanks!

One more thing. I have an older version of this modulator. https://www.amazon.com/iSimple-IS31-Antenna-Modulator-Aftermarket/dp/B002U5XPBE/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1500437530&sr=1-2&keywords=isimple+fm

You can see that the back of it has a gain adjuster. And the toggle switch is 87.9 and 88.3 fm. It works really well. I use the older ipod 30 pin connector instead of the aux because the previous owner had installed this for me. I then use a 30 pin to aux then an aux switcher to switch between the aux and bluetooth. I can give you a guide to do that later if you like

Your best option is to plug directly into your receiver if it has an HDMI port. If it does but they are full, you can get an external switch to change sources, like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00B46XUQU/. If neither of those options work, an audio extractor is your next option, like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BIQER0E/. This will still output HDMI video, but also send the digital audio out an optical port so you still get surround sound, though you will probably get a few milliseconds of lag, probably nothing too noticeable. In the magical event you don't even have optical, it still has stereo outputs which, for music, will be just fine.

There's a couple third party hardware pieces that are basically an array of inputs and you physically "switch" to the one you want being sent to the TV. Thankfully there aren't many that use HDMI so we avoid having to figure that out (though I'm sure there are solutions).

I think the one he uses is this: https://www.amazon.com/Panlong-Switcher-Composite-Selector-Consoles/dp/B00KXVBB7C

That splitter plus an HDMI switch (like this one https://www.amazon.com/PORTTA-PET0301S-Switcher-Supports-Wireless/dp/B00B46XUQU/ref=sr_1_13?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1474643366&sr=1-13&keywords=hdmi+switch) might be your best option.

My only concern would be the splitter supporting HDCP.

So I just went through all of this myself and I can let you know what I used. After doing some research I decided on this 8 Way Composite AV Switch (MT-VIKI 8 Ports 8-In 1-Out AV RCA Splitter Selector Switch $22 - Amazon)

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DRGDBTG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

And I currently have 7 consoles running through it perfectly into my trinitron as you can see here: http://i.imgur.com/48CJdIn.jpg

That is one RGB cable coming from the selector (on top of CRT) into the TV and all the RGB cables from my consoles plugging into the selector. There are toggle switches on the top to choose between systems.

Currently connected: SNES, PS2, GC, Dreamcast, N64, Saturn and Genesis w/powerbase adapter and I still have room for my TG16 once I find space for it!

EDIT: I re-read through the thread linked earlier and I am using the same models they have suggested.

Install an FM modulator

The difference is that the direct input bypasses your antenna and plays your music on a certain frequency. In an FM transmitter, the transmitters uses the antenna.

In my experience, the sound quality is very excellent.