(Part 2) Reddit mentions: The best electrical distribution products

The standard elgato may not be a great choice for twitch, since there is a ~2 second delay that can be a bit of an annoyance.

You basically need:
A capture card
GV-USB2 is pretty great quality for SD, but installing the drivers is entirely in japanese. They're pretty easy to figure out by just hitting random buttons and guessing, but people have made guides for "hit these buttons in this order". Once you set it up, it'll work perfectly from then on. The Dazzle DVC 100 used to be a pretty common choice, but I think the GV-USB2 is honestly better (I have a Dazzle, and even I'll admit the GV-USB2 is better).

As far as a splitter/switch, unpowered splitter cables would be fine, such as these plugged into the side of your NES, just make sure you get RCA cables that match up to go to your TV and to your capture card. If you want to get the best picture quality, a powered splitter/switch like this one will give a slightly better picture and will give you room to hook up more consoles as well (since it is a switch as well).

As for software, the standard entry-level streaming software is OBS, and for free software, it honestly is pretty great. If you want to spend money, there's some other good stuff out there, but OBS does everything you'd probably want to do. If you want something a bit better for a timer than your iPhone, try LiveSplit. You can setup splits to keep track of your pace (though considering how short the WR is, just a basic timer is probably fine, this will just allow you to let people watching on youtube or twitch see your timer too).

If you need any help otherwise, let me know.

It sounds like you got a nice upgrade. I've never heard the Dali's but I know they come well reviewed so I'm not surprised that you are happy with your new setup.

You know I'll Sony credit that their AVR's are usually pretty easy to setup. They don't have a lot of knobs and dials under the hood but I have liked the few Sony's that I've had over the years. If you're a tweaker of the settings guy they aren't for you (Get a Denon) but if you want just a set and forget they excel in that area.

Now as far as you're TT/AVR issue I would look for something like this speaker selector $50. Yeah it's more expensive than some but it takes banana plugs and it's labled for exactly what you're trying to do. I don't know if you can get that one in the UK but it's at least something to go on.

>My dad's 70th birthday is coming up and he just got a new TV, a Samsung 55" Class Q7CN QLED Curved Smart 4K UHD TV (2018). The problem is that he's partly deaf and needs headphones to hear the TV. We need to get both speakers and Bluetooth headphones to work with the new TV. I'm just looking to get 2 speakers (one for each side of the room) and Bluetooth headphones (for my dad). I live in the US. My budget for the headphones is up to $200 and the same for the speakers but if I can get them cheaper, that's even better. He doesn't need the best audio quality, he just needs to be able to hear the TV. Thank you for any help.

Is the reason for both headphone and speakers at the same time because both your dad and mom are watching the TV?

Bluetooth does not usually work with more than 1 headphone or speaker at a time.

As what others have said, FiiO D3 (D03K) Digital to Analog Audio Converter will work with the optical out port from the TV to analog RCA Sennheiser RS 120. You may or may not be able to have the optical out and HDMI or TV speakers on both at the same time. Or use an optical splitter to split the signal for headphones and a speaker system.

Another option is an HDMI extractor. You have the wrong analog to HDMI converter and not the correct HDMI to analog converter. The extractor may also allow you to have both headphones and a speaker system at the same time.

For good Bluetooth headphones under $50, Monoprice.

To add speakers to a TV, use an AV receiver with 2 or more passive speakers or a pair of passive bookshelf speakers with an optical input.

One option to get sound from the headphones and external speakers at the same time is to use the optical out from the TV with a used AV receiver with pre-outs. It should allow you to use 2, 3 or 5, sometimes 7 wired speakers and also use the headphones at the same time.

Are you looking for wireless speakers? Denon has HEOS or Yamaha has Muiscast wireless systems.

Wireless is not needed for 2 speakers anyway since the speakers get placed on either side of the TV as far apart from each other as they are from the listener, not anywhere around the room. See Speaker Placement for Stereo Music Listening.

Sound from the TV speakers and external speakers at the same time is duplicative and does not have any advantage. The left and right external speakers should be on either side of the TV as far apart from each other as they are from the listener. Also having the TV speakers on does not add to the volume or quality of the sound. Adding a center channel speaker will allow you to boost its level for better dialog and the center channel gets placed directly under the TV where the TV speakers point to anyway. If you want 5 speakers all around the room, that is surround sound or you can play the same sound from all 5 speakers in mono mode.

See Speaker Placement for Home Theater • How to Set Up a Basic Home Theater System - Lifewire • How to Set Up Your Home Theater Receiver • r/HTBuyingGuides FAQ • r/hometheater.

There's lots of different routes to get to good audio. Depends on what you want.

The JBL LSR 305 suggestion will sound great, and you can probably add a sub to it later to get even more powerful and deeper bass. But it's somewhat limiting in that there's not much that can be upgraded.

If you'd like to roll your own, a popular and great sounding kit are the Overnight Sensations at parts-express. More info on reddit here.

And then pick up a compact amp like the SMSL SA60, (or the older SMSL SA50) and it's a great little system, and you get to do some modest woodwork (no sawing), but also some light soldering, too.

You can add Bluetooth connectivity to it by selecting an amp that takes BT, or by getting a little device like this Avantree (which I have, and like a lot). Be sure to get something that supports aptX (some Android phones and desktops) and/or AAC (for Apple products).

Lastly, you may wish to have multiple wired inputs. For that, with one of these mini amplifiers, you'd need an audio selector switch, such as this.

Posted this in /audio and /hometheatre but got nothing yet, thought I would try in here and hope someone can help me.

 

I have speaker cables coming from my old B&O amp for my Turntable; and I have speaker cables coming from my Sony STRDN1080 receiver - both going to the front Dali speakers.

 

Most of the time I just have my AV receiver connected up to all the speakers, and when I want to listen to my Hi-fi I unplug the two fronts and plug in the cables from my turntable.

 

Obviously I would like a more automated solution, but I'm not even sure if there is a specific product name I should be looking for. I have googled various combinations of 'speaker selector','speaker switch', 'audio splitter' even '2 in 1 out speaker switch' And haven't found anything really. Most results are for feeding multiple speakers from one source, and very few are banana plug inputs, most are audio sources (optical, rca) or spring loaded speaker clips.

 

The closest I have seen that would do the trick is this from the US amazon site linked from my upgrade thread. But I can't find similar in the UK, and auto switching would be great if possible.

 

Is there anything out there available from UK i can look at? If I had any hair left I'd be pulling it out by now. ;)

Cheers,

I currently have the Alienware on my desk. Win10 and macOS both run at 120Hz with mine just fine right now. FreeSync/G-Sync only apply to games when running under Windows. The biggest feature lets the monitor refresh the screen at the same frame rate as the game, avoiding tearing and smoothing things out a bit, up to the max rate the monitor supports. So if a game is running at 96 FPS, the monitor could refresh at 96Hz to match, and keep changing as the game does. The Mac can use the display, it just doesn’t get the benefit of things like that in games under macOS. So if gaming on macOS, it makes no sense to spend extra on a gaming monitor that includes it. It’s fine for sharing with a Mac though. 120Hz in macOS makes for some smooth scrolling in Safari with a trackpad, and smooth animations. Not a huge deal, but nice.

The trick though is that you really need something like this for the Alienware: https://www.ebay.com/itm/NETmate-NM-DPS21-Displayport-2-Port-Monitor-Selector-Switcher-Apple-Sharing-A-r/223464074360

Amazon has a version for twice the price: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ZK2S71W/

The HDMI port on the Alienware can only do 50Hz, and I’d rather be able to use the full 60-120Hz for both computers. It’s “rated” for DisplayPort 1.1a on eBay, but the same model is on Amazon listed as 1.2 compatible and Delocke also sells it as 1.4 compatible. It’s entirely passive, so there shouldn’t be any real difference, and the eBay version is half the price to the one on Amazon. It doesn’t come with cables, and you will want to use good quality cables as short as possible (I use 6ft to the switch, 3ft for the monitor, cables rated for DP1.4) to avoid signal issues. But it’s been flawless for me for gaming and at 120Hz.

By "TV based," I assume you want to listen to HDMI sources rather than USB. There are a couple of cheap/simple solutions to this, but a receiver w/pre-outs would benefit your existing setup in several ways.

First, the cheap solutions:

1. Audio out from your TV. If your TV has analog outs, connect your powered speakers directly. If optical out, use your existing DAC if possible.
   
   
2. HDMI switcher with audio output. Here's one for $40. This is similar to #1 above but in an external box. HDMI auto-switching is a nice feature. However, because of HDMI EDID, you'll be limited to only those audio formats which the TV can handle (typically 48khz stereo PCM and Dolby Digital). There's a way to allow high-res formats but it'd add $80 and a second box.
   
   Now, a receiver with pre-outs would optimally integrate your Paradigms and sub. You'll have one, master volume control for all speakers (b/c each Paradigm speaker and the sub all have individual volume knobs. Right now you're prob adjusting volume on your computer or DAC/HP amp). You'll also gain centralized crossover control, time-delay adjustments, level-matching between sources, more inputs and the possibility to integrate your existing computer audio setup alongside. Unfortunately, as you've found, pre-outs aren't generally found on receivers below $300. Good luck.
   

Thank you so much for replying! I'm following what you're saying at a really basic level but that sounds a bit like another language to me. I don't mean to take up much more of your time but could you possibly send me a couple of links for the products needed for whichever of the two options you described above would be cheapest (I'm guessing the second option)? I'll hop online now as well to try to find products that match your description. Thanks again friend.

EDIT: Would this work?? It seems like this has a 3.5 mm out so I might not need a phono L/R to 3.5 mm socket adapter (not exactly sure what that is yet)?? https://www.amazon.com/avedio-links-Extractor-Splitter-Converter/dp/B07H94D77V

Do you have a setup where say your rear speakers are plugged in all the time, and then when you want to use a headset (say gaming or voice comms) you plug in the headset to the front panel jack?

Kind of guessing this may be the issue. If so, you may benefit from the solution I went for. Basically the headphone jack is getting worn out from many mates/demates. Every connector has a rated number of mates/demates before it starts to give. The ones used on the front panel are frequently not really good in this respect. So we'd like to come up with a setup where you don't have to keep fiddling with Windows audio output utilities, and don't have to keep plugging jacks in and out. (I know there are some very good audio control utilities, it was just nothing I wanted to deal with personally.)

I ended up going with this: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NTJET10/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1. It's inexpensive and it does exactly what it was meant to, and cheaper than I could have made it myself. Basically it's a stereo switch between one common and 4 ports. Thus, I wire from the rear panel to the common on this little switch, and then port A is my desktop speakers and port B is the headset. My headphones came with a little extension cord for both mike and speakers so I use that to run from the rear panel, and then I use a short male-male stereo to adapt to the common in. That puts a mike jack right by the box so there no cable length issues.

Anyway, maybe this will be of some use. That product is one of those "so simple it's hard to find" products. I've made a stereo switch in the past but once you get the box and setup the jacks and mounting and everything -- honestly it was not a project I wanted to take on, so finding one for low cost was perfect.

Hope that helps.

My wife and I currently live in a small apartment, so, admittedly, we sit WAY to close to the screen given how big I have it set (it's about 85in and we sit maybe seven feet back, which is a bit too close). The good thing about a projector, by the way, is that the screen size is variable. We've taken it places before and blown it up to its max height (130 inches, I think?), and I've taken it places and set it MUCH smaller as well.

Speakers aren't hard to set up. There are really two options for setting them up. The first is to go into your device (Playstation, BR player, whatever) and tell it to output the audio through a cable other than the HDMI output (which is what they do by default), you'll then have two cables running out of your speaker: 1. HDMI going to the projector, and 2. one of the various sorts of audio cables going out to the speakers. This can get messy if you have multiple devices, however, as you'll need an audio switcher, and you may run out of HDMI ports on the back of the projector.

Your second option is to buy something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Switch-Optical-Extractor-Splitter-Supports/dp/B01K7BZ1XC/ref=sr_1_10?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1484149764&sr=1-10&keywords=hdmi+switch

With this you plug in each of your devices via HDMI. You then run one HDMI cable to the projector and one sound cable to the speakers. The box splits the HDMI single for you and it acts as a switch between your devices. I personally use this box and love it (I run a firestick, PS3, and a region free blu-ray player into my projector and speakers).

And feel free to keep asking questions, please. =)

Umm, actual professional AV Installer here.

1. Customers hate being told they have bad ideas.
   
2. People will think this person is nuts if they don't put the tv over the fireplace plus it's kind of a small area so, yeah, the tv's going over the fireplace.
   
3. There's a ton of room behind the top of the fireplace opening because the entire FP unit itself if made of metal and placed in to the framed out wall. The key is what's below you, is it open or finished basement? I'm assuming open or drop ceiling.
   
4. What you want to do is get your cables (including romex) down the inside of the wall just to the side of the fireplace. It looks like about 6 inches wide there. There's an decent amount of wood so you can cut a 1 1/2 inch hole through the floor (inside the wall!). It looks like the right side will have the gas feed, you'll know this by the chrome key plate on the wall, so use the other side for your cables just to be on the safe side.
   
5. Depending on the tv bracket you get (and the weight of your tv), you may need to secure a sheet of plywood to the wall first. Better yet, I would cut out a good amount of sheet rock (2x4ft) so you can stick your whole head and shoulders in the wall to see where your cables are going. Then just cover that hole up with the plywood.
   
6. I'd go with a small cabinet just below those windows there to hold your cable box, xbox, av gear, etc. It looks like there's already a cable outlet there so when you're in the basement you'll want to come up right along side that with all your cables. Bring your romex up along there too but in a different stud cavity. You want to keep a minimum of 6 inches of space between high voltage and low voltage and if they have to cross be sure it's at 90 degrees.
   
7. Buy this http://amzn.to/O53Odf or something like it to extend the electric. This will pass NEC code. Extension cords are not allowed inside the walls. Plug it in to the wall under those windows or better yet get a good surge protector.
   
8. Sorry, just realized this is a 2month old post. How did it go?! haha

I love everyone mentioning the card hehe, thanks! :) So you're saying just pop in a USB keyboard for starters and that's it?

Yeah I was wondering about a fan. I'm being told by a majority a heatsink will be fine, I don't really sit for extended gaming periods, not with a toddler and newborn lol, so I figured for now, this case/heatsink will do until my needs change

I planned to get this to help with my connections to the TV. Wondering if anyone else has tried it.

There are so much better TVs than The Frame and we all would heavily advise you that you look elsewhere. Build a custom frame around the TV yourself to keep the frame aesthetic if you have to, that’s what we recommend. If you still want that Frame though then that’s your call.

Also, your goal is zero wires but you will have wires. That Samsung One Connect wire cannot be ran through the wall since it was not legally rated to be in a wall. So you’ll be having a visible wire from your connect box In your shelf to your TV whether you like it or not. Sorry.

Bookshelf speakers are gonna look amazing aesthetically. Unless you have a really big room room you don’t need towers at all since it will be overkill. Also you’re already aware that no one is going to take a music room with a soundbar setup seriously, so that’s good.

Also, as far as your amp goes, how about a Sonos Amp with an adaptor to connect to the HDMI? Like this? it has an optical port as well as an aux port. may not be two six ports but I’m still looking. Also with that amp you get the benefit that you would get with a Sonos system with your bookshelf speakers. Idk, don’t know much about 2.1 amps tbh.

Also, pics when you’re done. I would love to see that room in its final form.

If you already need to call an electrician to run an outlet, just ask them to make another hole for your A/V cables. If you are lucky they might do it for free. Will the cables just need to go from behind the unit down to the shelf that will hold the Apple TV?

I would ask the electrician to cut some extra holes for you, and you could tidy them up with something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/DataComm-45-0001-WH-1-Gang-Recessed-Voltage/dp/B00193U3O0/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1474998124&sr=8-3&keywords=1-Gang+Recessed+Low+Voltage+Cable+Plate

You would mount them to something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/iMBAPrice%C2%AE-Single-Voltage-Mounting-Bracket/dp/B00HYHEC38/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1474998033&sr=8-2&keywords=1+gang+mounting+bracket

I just got done mounting and installing a bunch of TVs and A/V cables for some of our branch offices, and that is pretty much what we did. The passthrough will easily allow the large tips of the cables through.

Of course you could also use a drywall saw and a cable fisher and do it yourself. If in doubt, call an electrician. Good luck!

I have a similar setup and, as a first-time buyer, it took me quite a while to make sense of how everything was supposed to connect together. I didn't get much help from the posts I made at the time, but here's my setup:

• Epson Home Cinema 3700
  
• 3x1 V1.4 HDMI Switch with TOSLINK Optical SPDIF
  
• MAXIMM Ultra Flat HDMI High Speed Cable
  
• Polk Magnifi Mini
  
  Your thoughts on Question 2 are correct as far as hookups, but the key (at least with the Magnifi Mini setup) is that you use the Optical Output from the splitter to the soundbar.
  
  So, for you, PS4/Apple TV/DirecTV --> Splitter --> HDMI Out to Projector, Optical Out to Soundbar.
  
  Also, I have a really bright room and a beige spackled wall. Not sure what your room situation is like, but I don't use a screen and it looks great, so if you're looking to save a few bucks, you might try the setup without the screen first and see if you can get by.

You probably should punch down those ends on a "better" patch panel like this:

https://www.amazon.com/TRENDnet-Unshielded-Wallmount-Rackmount-TC-P24C5E/dp/B00008AWL3/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1466713111&sr=1-3&keywords=patch+panel

It doesn't have to be the exact one, it's just for reference. Keep in mind to keep interference down that can mess with your transfer rates that you will want to keep the amount of wiring that is untwisted to a minimum. Once you are punched down you can get a ton and probe kit, relatively cheap to check that you punched down the wire correctly and that it is terminated correctly on the other end as well, presumably in a keystone jack for a wall. This will also allow you to find which wires go where in your house. Also, you will have to determine which standard for wiring was used, T568A or T568B. You can check this before punching anything down by taking a wall plate out and investigating how the cat5e was terminate at the wall plates.

You can get a cheap line tester like this that will do the job fine.
https://www.amazon.com/Tonor-RJ45-Network-Cable-Tester/dp/B00OUFX38W/ref=sr_1_18?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1466713437&sr=1-18&keywords=tone+and+probe

I've actually used this exact one at home when I've left my commercial fluke equipment at work. It feels cheap, but it does the job. Good luck, once it's done and done correctly it's very nice to have a wired home with the ability to add wireless access points throughout your home.

Couple of questions, Does your keyboard have a bluetooth switcher build in? the biggest issue would be the mouse. If you are okay with switching your peripherals when you with OS then all you really need is a switch. I do it with my gaming PC and my MacBook, but I use the input switch on my monitor.

If you want a physical button:
https://www.amazon.com/HDMI-Switch-4K-Splitter-Bi-Directional/dp/B079JQ9XXV/ref=sr_1_1?crid=2FE4FZP2XI49L&keywords=hdmi+switch+2+input+1+output&qid=1573494794&s=electronics&sprefix=hdmi+switch+2+in%2Celectronics%2C159&sr=1-1
^^^This is a nice elegant switch you could stick under your desk and push to switch.

If you want a keyboard that switches I personally like Logitech stuff and I am not sure about a mouse that switches. Hope this helps let me know id you have any more questions!

Maybe that's what you're looking for?

Someone in the review section is using it successfully with his 348Q @ 100hz but another one isn't, apparently. But maybe it's worth a shot? Seems rather inexpensive to me considering the alternatives..

Good luck :)

https://www.amazon.co.uk/LINDY-Port-Manual-DisplayPort-Switch/dp/B00ZK2S71W

Your optical solution will work, but loses the HDMI-CEC aspects of the solution. Meaning, if you control your soundbar with the TV remote right now then you will now have to use your soundbar remote to control the volume since optical won't send those commands to the soundbar. Also, your TV may or may not output 5.1 channel sound via the optical port.

This might be a good time to invest in a Harmony remote, if you don't have one already. Then you could get an HDMI splitter/hub (link below) with an IR sensor. Setup the Harmony to control the HDMI hub and it will change inputs from Roku to PS4 via the harmony automatically.

https://www.amazon.com/Zettaguard-Wireless-Switcher-Switches-ZW410/dp/B01BV1XBIY/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1511967570&sr=1-3&keywords=4k+hdmi+hub

The LP120 and A2+ are all you will need to start spinning records.

You won't need an external preamp, because the LP120 has one built in. You won't need a receiver/amplifier because the A2+ have built in amplification. You won't need an equalizer, unless you want to adjust the audio frequency for some reason.

The only thing you may need is a passive switch box and/or a passive volume control. The passive switch box will allow you to hook more than one input source (turntable, mp3 player, etc) to your A2+ speakers. A passive volume control will allow you adjust the volume more easily than reaching behind the A2+ speakers each time you want to change the volume level.

The passive switch box (aka A/V switcher) is available at nearly any big-box or online retailer. The passive volume control can probably be found at multiple places as well. Links for reference:

http://www.amazon.com/RadioShack-Auto-sensing-Switch-5--2-out/dp/B00DSQMVKU/

http://www.amazon.com/C2G-Cables-28750-Composite-Selector/dp/B0032ANC8M

http://www.amazon.com/RadioShack-Composite-Selector-Switch/dp/B005LT1CXO

http://www.amazon.com/Axxess-AALC-Controller-Discontinued-Manufacturer/dp/B003FPD3IS

http://www.amazon.com/PAC-LC-1-Remote-Amplifier-Controller/dp/B0002J226O

Assuming it's mounted to an inside wall, it's probably not insulated, meaning it's extremely easy to feed the wires inside the wall.

Using a keyhole saw, cut a small hole behind the monitor. I suggest using a stud finder with A/C detection to make sure you're not cutting into a stud or wires. Then cut another hole somewhere directly below that hole and just run the wires in one and out the other. It's super easy. You can get nice bezels to make the holes look pretty too:

keyhole saw

stud finder

bezel

Last time I checked, Ubiquiti uses a different voltage for PoE so I had to use their included injectors. Made for a messy wiring setup but is fine otherwise. I never ended up using the PoE ports on the switch. You're also going to want to get a patch panel and a punch down tool. That way your home wiring goes to a patch panel (which you should test and label each port when you wire them- trust me), and then you use super short cables to go from the switch to the patch panel. This is much cleaner long term. Also, get a wall mount rack. Black looks cooler, but is much harder to see into:

Rack:
https://www.amazon.com/Tripp-Lite-Enclosure-Switch-Depth-SRW6UW/dp/B00DROZC04/ref=sr_1_20?ie=UTF8&qid=1491773209&sr=8-20&keywords=wall+mount+rack

Patch Panel:
https://www.amazon.com/TRENDnet-Unshielded-Connectors-Color-Coded-TC-P24C5E/dp/B00008AWL3/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1491773263&sr=8-3&keywords=patch+panel

I would likely use either 2x4 or 2x6 instead of 2x10.

• Drill pilot holes in those braces that you will drive the lag bolts through into the studs
  
  
• Finish the 2x4 or 2x6 you use before mounting it to the wall. When faced with this, I actually used a piece of 1" good quality plywood that I sanded down, routed the edges nicely, primed, and painted before sticking on the wall. Whatever you wind up using, make it look good even if you think you're never going to see it.
  
  
  
• Buy these and install them before hanging the tv on the wall. Read the instructions thoroughly.
  
  
  
• Buy these and stick them into the other things. Read the instructions thoroughly.
  
  
  
• You can get brackets that attach to the back of the tv mount that hide things like cable boxes, set top boxes, etc. We have Google Wifi hubs mounted behind our two wall mounted tv's to free up space on the surfaces the stands one stood on. They make brackets for everything, including generic brackets and even specific ones for like Nvidia Shield Console.
  
  
  
• Check cable length. If snaking cables through the wall, you may need to get longer HDMI cables.
  
  
  
  Some Links
  
  
• http://studs.m88play.com/wall-studs-too-far-apart-for-tv-mount/
  
  
• http://www.displays2go.com/Article/Common-Mistakes-When-Mounting-TV-10
  
  

I used one of these for the super clean look. Pretty easy. Datacomm 50-3323-WH-KIT Flat Panel TV Cable Organizer Kit with Power Solution - White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001PB7UVA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_uj5wCbWKSASAD

HDMI Switch,GANA 3 Port 4K HDMI Switch 3x1 Switch Splitter with Pigtail Cable Supports Full HD 4K 1080P 3D Player https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06VX1PKQ7/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_0HDFDbR79D3RS

I used this one when I was using PC and Switch with HDMI with only one HDMI port, and it worked well for me.

However, just because it worked for me doesn't mean you shouldn't look further. Browse some HDMI switches and see if you see one you like more, or if you want to try a different solution. Good luck!

1080p60:

Expensive but works great: Magewell (I've used/owned both of these)https://www.amazon.com/Magewell-HDMI-Video-Capture-Dongle/dp/B00I16VQOY/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1538331502&sr=8-3&keywords=magewell+usb+3.0+hdmi+video+capture+dongle

https://www.amazon.com/Magewell-USB-Capture-HDMI-Plus/dp/B01N16ZM2M/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1538331502&sr=8-4&keywords=magewell+usb+3.0+hdmi+video+capture+dongle

Cheaper but works great: iMillet (archtoasty uses this)https://www.amazon.com/Imillet-Capture-USB3-0-Drive-Free-Windows/dp/B07BSC3P7L/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1538331556&sr=8-1&keywords=imillet%2Busb%2B3.0&th=1

Note: with the first magewell and the imillet you'll also want an hdmi splitter:https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0089DSLMY/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

I don't know of any decent 4k60 PCIe cards for linux. Magewell maybe but I've not been able to get my hands on one. With linux as far as PCIe goes I wouldn't trust anything except magewell. Plenty of USB devices around that work for 1080p though.

$40 This is what I use, it's working great. I love the remote. It support 2.1 and 5.1 I believe.

Tendak 4 x 1 HDMI Switch with Audio Out Optical SPDIF Coaxial & RCA L/R 4 Port HDMI Switcher Box Selector Audio Extractor Splitter with IR Remote Supports 4Kx2K, ARC, MHL, Full 3D https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HM1RP6G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_DtRgzb59G9006

$30 There's also this one, I think they both have the same audio extraction system:

Tendak 4K x 2K HDMI to HDMI and Optical TOSLINK SPDIF + 3.5mm Stereo Audio Extractor Converter HDMI Audio Splitter Adapter(HDMI Input, HDMI + Digital / Analog Audio Output) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017B6WFP8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_ZuRgzbQKSPMR6

I have a dual PC setup and use an Elgato 4K60 Pro and use the Fosmon 1X2 bidirectional splitter.

Fosmon 2-Port HDMI Switch, HDMI 2.0, 4Kx2K, 60Hz, 2x1 or 1x2 Bi-Directional Splitter Hub Switcher, 2 Input 1 Output, Support UHD 4K 3D 1080p HDCP for HDTV, PS4, Xbox, Apple TV 4K, Roku, Fire Stick https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LFX1UDM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_z2B1Db98YXH97

I stream Switch/PC games and plan to also stream from my Xbox One and PS4 at some point so it was an easy choice to buy one of these and I use it everyday. It works great and saves you from having to switch HDMI cords and ruin your cable management. Best part is it’s only $13

Hope that helps.

Sounds like a potential issue is that the sound coming out of the optical output of the TV, which may only be 2.0 or 2.1, rather than 5.1. I have this problem with my TV.

You can instead use the optical outputs of each device and send them to an adapter that accepts multiple optical inputs, which then sends the audio off to one optical output based on the input you select. Here's some examples after very quick searching on Amazon (I would definitely search around Amazon/Google a lot more, if you can find one that has more reviews and/or best sellers):

https://www.amazon.com/Portta-APET0403T-Toslink-Digital-Optical/dp/B00SX0QKGM/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1480443591&sr=1-3&keywords=dual+optical+input

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01IP8IQOU?psc=1

I imagine they make better ones with remote capabilities also. In fact at least one of these has an IR Extender port which might be used for remote capabilities, not 100% sure though. Not sure if this works for you but it might be an option, and these devices should preserve the 5.1. :)

EDIT: found one with a remote!
https://www.amazon.com/Portta-APET0301T-Toslink-Switcher-Dolby-AC3/dp/B00KDZEWWO/ref=pd_cp_23_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00KDZEWWO&pd_rd_r=YZV7EBB60HT6Y3N3397R&pd_rd_w=IOYG5&pd_rd_wg=WfBLB&psc=1&refRID=YZV7EBB60HT6Y3N3397R

...and some others.

https://www.amazon.com/ViewHD-TOSLINK-Digital-Optical-Switcher/dp/B00G188Z7A/ref=pd_cp_23_3?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00G188Z7A&pd_rd_r=YZV7EBB60HT6Y3N3397R&pd_rd_w=IOYG5&pd_rd_wg=WfBLB&psc=1&refRID=YZV7EBB60HT6Y3N3397R

https://www.amazon.com/Panlong-Digital-Optical-Control-Toslink/dp/B00HTYBPPY/ref=pd_cp_23_4?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00HTYBPPY&pd_rd_r=YZV7EBB60HT6Y3N3397R&pd_rd_w=IOYG5&pd_rd_wg=WfBLB&psc=1&refRID=YZV7EBB60HT6Y3N3397R

I totally agree. People blew that way out of proportion. Sure, i wish there was a lot more, but it's not as bad as some people let on. Nobody should be unplugging cables though. If you get an HDMI switch and short hdmi 2.0 cables(3 feet) you can play VR or hdr with the push of two buttons. The most important thing is to make sure the cables are short otherwise blackouts occur. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06WP755QH/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_1JUeAbMGP5JP8

Yeah, you'd want something like this HDMI switcher. There's a 3 way switch there too. There are plenty of companies selling them. This is just one of them, so see where you can find the best reviews. This is just the first came across. You'll be able to plug everything in at once and press the button on the switch or on the remote to cycle between them. Keep in mind that there's a good chance your monitor doesn't have speakers, this would complicate things a bit for your consoles.

If you are looking to do this yourself you need a combination of the following:

• Drywall knife (Something like Stanley 20-556 6-Inch FatMax Jab Saw https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00005QVQH/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_kw7Ezb2HJYX5K)
  
  
• Cordless Drill (Even a regular corded drill will work)
  
  
• Flexbit for drilling through studs if needed (Something like Eagle Tool US EA37518 Auger Style Flex Installer Bit for Wood, 3/16" Shank Diameter, 3/8" Head Diameter x 18" Length https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MTFTORA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_5x7Ezb81XWXP0)
  
  
• Glowrods (Something like 33' Electric Fiberglass Wire Pull Rods Fish Tape https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005LW4CFG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_pz7Ezb7YCC3GD)
  
  
• Stud finder if you don't know how to knock on the wall to find the studs
  
  
• Wire pass through vanity plates (
  DataComm 45-0001-WH 1-Gang Recessed Low Voltage Cable Plate (White) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00193U3O0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_VF7EzbAP6DKCZ)
  
  
• Tension bracket for drywall so you can mount the plates (Low Voltage Bracket Single Gang https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003ZWJGGE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_PH7EzbM4KHX9H)
  
  
  If you are just going to mount the monitors right in front of your desk and don't need to go sideways like OP then you can just cut the drywall where you are going to mount the monitors and then go down to where your exit point will be and cut there and drop your wires through.
  
  If you need to do some fancy stuff - Ideally you would want to see if where all your studs were, measure the distance you'll need to bore through studs and then get glow rods and flex bits with sufficient length to do the job. Also your flex bit will need to be a big enough diameter to fit your cables through. Flex bits are super easy to work with.
  
  Hope this helps!
  
  

This:

http://smile.amazon.com/AVerMedia-Definition-Commentate-Recorder-C285/dp/B00F890KXU?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01

Plus this:

http://smile.amazon.com/BG-520-splitter-switcher-XBOX360-Blu-ray/dp/B0089DSLMY?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00

Equals Awesome Capturing.

I have a Toshiba 500 GB External plugged into front USB and just one press of record button and it records. Press the record button again and it stops. The light blinks so you know your recording.

It's easy to use, easy to setup. The on screen menus are slow to load but I don't need them as I only press one button on the remote ever. It has a built in editor but it didn't work that well. I just record on hard drive. Then take hard drive to my PC and edit footage.

I love this thing. If you use the splitter I linked it removes HDCP and you can even record streaming apps like NF and PSV.

Active speakers are typically designed to be used by one device. That's their main benefit...you don't need a full receiver to connect them to...you can just plug them directly into whatever audio source you want and be done.

If you want to use powered speakers with multiple inputs, you need to figure out how to switch between the multiple inputs. One option is to just run both into one input using Y-splitters. That means you'd have your computer and your turntable plugged into the same inputs at the same time.

This is the cheapest solution...but obviously you'd want to avoid playing both at once.

You could also buy an actual switch as well:

https://www.amazon.com/Fosmon-A1602-Splitter-Connecting-Devices/dp/B00HNCPR92/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1493661472&sr=8-1&keywords=rca+input+switch

So that solves the speaker portion, but not the headphone side. So you still need a headphone amp (since it appears those speakers do not have headphone outputs). So you could get another switch and essentially have the ability to switch the inputs (turntable v computer) and then on the other side a switch to change the outputs (powered speakers v headphone amp).

At that point, however, you may want to consider going back to a good ol set of passive speakers and a proper receiver that would include multiple inputs and headphone out for you. (Or, alternatively, get powered speakers that include a headphone jack).

I used a pass through wall plate (I think it's called?). They come in different colours, but here is an example on amazon.com...
https://www.amazon.com/DataComm-45-0001-WH-1-Gang-Recessed-Voltage/dp/B00193U3O0/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1492543914&sr=8-2&keywords=pass+through+wall+plate

Hope that helps Mantis4g63 :)

The monoprice hdmi switcher + toslink (optical) is what I use to send sound to my surround system, as well as quickly switch between HDMI signals (computer, PS3, PS4). It works great except for one thing... the frequency used by the W1070's remote control is the SAME as that of the monoprice box. That means I can't control the projector without switching the signal on the HDMI box! So maybe your best bet is to find something similar, so that you don't frustrate yourself.

http://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-105557-Toslink-Digital-Coaxial/dp/B003L14WB8/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1420416934&sr=8-3&keywords=monoprice+switcher+hdmi

FYI: Low voltage not required to be in conduit in Chicago. A friend of mine is an electrician in Chicago. Rest of electrical needs conduit that is true.
I have run coax cable, Ethernet, speaker wire and phone lines in my house through walls without conduit. Just make sure the wire you use is riser rated if passing from floor to floor or In-wall rated if keeping on same floor. Plenum rated if running via heavy ducts/returns. I have generally used riser rated for all my in-wall applications.
Don’t run an electrical cord from a tv or extension cord in the wall. You always use something like this: Datacomm Electronics 50-3323-WH-KIT Flat Panel TV Cable Organizer Kit with Power Solution - White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001PB7UVA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_wGA7CbQG8K63V

This one is the one I ha e and for the price it works great! The 4K on it works great as well! I have Nintendo Switch, my cable box, and my Xbox one s hooked up to it no issues at all!

I highly recommend this one. Its been working great for me and the best part of it is it has an automatic switch so when ever you turn a system on it will automatically switch to that system.

Rca splitters or selectors. Super cheap ones on Amazon, or shell out a bit more for a nicer one.

Like this: Hosa YRA-104 RCA to Dual RCAF Y-Cable https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000068O4Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_JOz7xbWBZ5BPZ

Or: Fosmon Technology 3-Way Audio / Video RCA Switch Selector / Splitter Box & AV Patch Cable for Connecting 3 RCA Output Devices to Your TV https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HNCPR92/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_yPz7xbR6BCQ6B

Nicer: Four Input Source Tabletop Control Switch Box Internal Pc Board Design Metal Case https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0056EK7Q2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_-Qz7xbAK8CJFZ

Done new afraid to get one made for AV, there's no difference. You just won't use the video rca jack.

That is workable. Here is what you need

1. First, you need a dedicated DP 1.4 cable for your central monitor, due to bandwidth requirements of 2k 144hz gaming at 8bit.
   
   
2. Secondly, you need a display port 'switcher' like this:
   https://www.amazon.com/LINDY-Port-4K-DisplayPort-Switch/dp/B00ZK2S71W
   
   Your first wire (dedicated one), goes from your gfx card to display port switcher and then on to your central monitor.
   
   Your second wire (daisy chaining) goes to all 3 (or just two of them, depending on what you want) of your monitors (as it does normally) .. except for your central monitor .. where it would connect to it .. via the switcher
   
   This setup (so far) should allow you to game at the central monitor at 144hz and connect your laptop to all three of them..
   
   
3. Lastly, you can get a USB-C to displayport 'adaptor' .. so that your lovely fiance can use her laptop as well.. to connect to all 3 monitors.
   
   Using a display port 1.4 cable at each place, should ensure everything goes smoothly, since these cables are suppose to be backward compatible. And also provide lower latency.

Okay, I would suggest an HDMI splitter. I do this same thing, I have an Xbox, and my PC running on the same monitor, sometimes I’ll even hook my laptop up to the monitor if I have something on it that I need to access that isn’t on my PC, the HDMI splitter is exactly what it sounds like, it’s a single output, multiple input splitter that, with the press of a button, changes the input routing to another HDMI, I use this for switching between Xbox and pc without having to unplug cables, and it sounds like it would work well for you also. They’re about $10-$15 on Amazon


edit: here’s a link to a nice little $10 splitter!

Nope. Unfortunately the monitor's menu is "isolated" and can not be controlled with anything but the buttons. If you want an easier solution, you could get an HDMI switch, like this one

Really cool looking setup. Just want to point out a few things.

1. The power cord for the monitors is not rated for in-wall use and is against code. You should get one of these.
   
   
2. You're putting a lot of stress on the glass with that clamp holding up four monitors. It may look thick and secure, but it will shatter on you one day and break all four monitors when they fall down. Get a thin piece of wood and run it underneath your table along the back edge. Secure the clamp onto that piece of wood rather than directly against the glass. Home Depot, or any other home improvement store, will have really good looking appearance boards. Get a 1x4 cut to the length of the table right at the store and attach it to the bottom of the glass using contact cement. The clamp will keep it in place and distribute the load much more evenly.

It’s one of those outlet relocation and cable pass through things you can buy at a hardware store to run cables in the wall for a mounted TV. People who are afraid of adding an outlet will use this to safely/legally (within code) run power from the TV. You would connect an extension cord to the prongs on the wall and plug it into an outlet. AV cables pass through on the right.

Edit: like this product: Datacomm 50-3323-WH-KIT Flat Panel TV Cable Organizer Kit with Power Solution - White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001PB7UVA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_i0EACbK9RRKXQ


Honestly, I don’t understand why folks just don’t add an outlet up high above an existing one. It’s cheaper, cleaner, and just as easy to install as one of these things.

not all headsets require an optical output. Some of the 5.1 or 7.1 headsets don't work that great either.

But that's one reason I have bigger model rather and a slim. All you need is a splitter off of the HDMI if you need optical.

https://www.amazon.com/avedio-links-Extractor-Splitter-Converter/dp/B07H94D77V/
I'm not sure if that's the cheapest or best one. just found one to link for you.


Some headsets are not comfortable and get hot. I'd give it a little more research but I think your best solution is some open back sennheiser headsets and mute your mics.

No TV is going to have more than one RF port. You can either daisy-chain the RF adapters for the consoles (I'd try this, and stick with it as long as the image doesn't look any worse), or you can get an RF switch. I've only ever seen 2-port RF switches. https://www.amazon.com/RCA-VH71-B-Slide-Switch/dp/B00009W3F2/

For composite, some TVs will have more than one, but an easier solution is to just get a composite switch box. These are incredibly common, and can probably be found at a local store. You can get them in anywhere from 2-5 inputs pretty cheap. Here's a 3-input one: https://www.amazon.com/Fosmon-Technology-Selector-Splitter-Connecting/dp/B00HNCPR92/

As for PVMs, they do not have TV tuners in them, and therefore do not take an RF input. You can connect any standard VCR, however, and this will enable you to input RF into the VCR and output this signal to the PVM as composite video.

Except this one does the opposite, it broadcasts from one input to two televisions. I didn't really care about that because it wasn't why I was buying it for. I guess it's good for like sports bars with multiple tvs playing the same thing.

Edit: I think you would want one that is called a "switch" something like this. I don't know it this one is any good or will bypass HDCP, just the first result on google.

> Are wires supposed to run up to the TV from the thing lower down?

Yes
>Should I put in a piece of plastic pipe to make an easy conduit up to the tv now, while I can still get behind there easily?

No need for that.

>What is that wire up top?

As others have said, it looks like speaker wire. Probably don't need it.

I would get one of these for the top orange box., and replace the "speaker" cable with a 10' or 12' cat 5e cable. Plug the cable into the port at the bottom, run it through the wall, and plug it into the TV.

Are you getting all your source material from the network? Do you plan on having cable? Antenna? Xbox? Anything else on this TV? While you're at it, you might want to run some HDMI cables and a COAX cable along with your network cable.

Over 90db is efficient enough. That is why the Lepai worked with them. The Q5 issues are a bit of a downer but my set is good so I have to wait and see if I also get plagued with issues. The SA50 is still a solid choice for powering what you have but with only one input you would have to add an RCA switch like this to accommodate.

Yes you need a switch or a receiver to split the audio. I have a projector too and a Sonos Beam via optical. There are probably better ones but this is what I bought last year and it works great.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003L14WB8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Are these computer-style speakers where you just plug the 3.5mm cable into the computer (or TV)?

Cheapest would probably be an audio selector switch but you'd probably need some adapters to get it connected properly; AND you'd only be able to listen to one at a time.

Something like this: http://smile.amazon.com/Stereo-Manual-Selector-Sharing-Switch/dp/B00NTJET10/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1464403851&sr=8-5&keywords=audio+selector

If you want to hear both at once, you're probably best buying a cheap mixer and feeding that into the speakers. You could try a simple Y-adapter into the speaker, but I think you'll get some weird stuff going on as the audio will be feeding back to both devices.

Yes both are av switches. The one with s-video is http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00DSQMVKU/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1420291068&sr=8-1&dpPl=1&dpID=51uveTmBlCL&ref=plSrch&pi=AC_SX200_QL40 and the one with just composite is http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00DRGDBTG/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?qid=1420291068&sr=8-3&dpPl=1&dpID=41lebNURx6L&ref=plSrch&pi=AC_SX200_QL40

The S video switch has five inputs and two outputs, the composite switch has eight inputs and one output. The one with S video is autoswitching but requires power. If I had it to do again I would just buy two autoswitching S video boxes. They were cheaper and easier to use. Quality on both seems good.

They used Cat5 because it's about the same price as Cat3, but you can reuse it for Ethernet which is a major advantage.

Any reputable brand of panel should do and yes you will need a switch if you want all ports to work.

Something like this would work : TrendNET patch panel

I've never done this, but there are switchers to change between sources for a pair of stereo speakers. Presumably it would work for a single speaker. I'd definitely use a solution like that instead of trying to splice or split cables myself.
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B0796KGVXT/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_6Do3Db70JN83Z

My original plan was to build a small Ryzen server to run some VMs on. That plan eventually turned into looking at small racks and deciding I want to run ethernet throughout the house, so naturally I need it all to come together at one location. I bought a 6u rack (can technically hold 8u), a pdu, a tplink patch panel, and I got a free switch poe from Aerohive that I plan on using to power some security cameras. I found a 3u short rack mount computer case that can be mounted "backwards", which helps with air flow in these short racks and allows easy access to all of the io ports.

My Ryzen idea turned into a Theadripper build because of some crazy deals I got, and ended up being its own stand alone build. So I still don't really have a machine setup in the 3u case. I have a Dell board installed with an i7, but the psu has some weird proprietary connectors and the cables are too short for where the psu mounts, so I'll just look into replacing the board and psu at some point in the near future. I then plan on running proxmox and having this run part of a test lab, and maybe eventually act as a router.

I really, really like the pdu, but it's way over kill for this thing, so I'll probably just replace it with a nice surge protector, which will plug into an external battery backup.

I installed two exhaust fans into the top of the rack which run directly off the pdu. I could mount the patch panel 1u higher but the cables running into it would clash with the extra long screws the fans came with, so I will probably Dremel those screws in half when I get time.

The rack itself isn't bad. I had to get the first one replaced because it got destroyed during shipping. Other than having to tighten a few screws on the second one, works very well and came in great shape. I like this rack because it can be mounted on a wall or you can mount wheels to the bottom, which is comes with, and it looks nice while not weighing a million pounds.

Parts I'm using so far:

• Rack: V7 RMWC6U-1N
  
• Patch panel: TRENDnet 24-Port Cat5/5e Patch Panel
  
• PDU: CyberPower CPS1215RMS Surge Protector
  
• Fans: AC Infinity Axial 1225
  
• 3U case: PLINKUSA RACKBUY 3U
  

Check out this one: http://www.amazon.com/ViewHD-TOSLINK-Digital-Optical-Switcher/dp/B00G188Z7A

While I haven't used the optical switcher, I have used their HDMI switcher and it worked perfectly. Seems to have great reviews!

For the soundbar, they're generally not recommended on this sub.

That being said, if you absolutely have to have one and don't want recommendations for a receiver/speaker setup, Vizio is probably the best value for the money. This 3.1 model is $220 and will have a wireless sub.

As for the switch you posted, that won't work for your setup because it only has 3 inputs. You want one that does 4X1, which will be something like this.

Something like this?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001PB7UVA/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

There are a lot of variations of this thing out there.

I don't have experience installing - we almost went this route, then decided a large enough media console would look better and be more practical than an on- or in-wall solution. But, it's very well rated.

ViewHD SPDIF | TOSLINK Digital Optical Audio Switcher 3x1 with Remote (Three Inputs to One Output) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00G188Z7A/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_gze2tb11FJ23X9YX


This is what I used. And then plugged the USB into my TV USB port. Works great. Passes 5.1 to the transmitter perfectly.

Hi. Will this be a good HDMI splitter to strip the HDCP signals with a PS4, so I can make animated gifs of Blue Ray discs with? https://www.amazon.com/HDMI-Switch-4K-Splitter-Bi-Directional/dp/B079JQ9XXV/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=hdmi+splitter&qid=1557621608&s=gateway&sr=8-3


It does say PS4 / Xbox on it already, but I really want to make sure this doesn't get screwed up so I wanted to run it by you first to make sure, you being more knowledgeable than me about this subject. Thank you very much.

Xiaomi Mi Box is great value at only $69 USD, and it comes with optical (but not TOSLINK, so you'd need an adaptor), but good luck getting it outside of US... There are "international versions" from Chinese online resellers, but I just got the US version from eBay.com

There is also a thread on official forums that discusses all the possible hardware you can get:
http://forum.kodi.tv/showthread.php?tid=252916
You should really start there

However, I wanted to point out that you don't need to be restricted in your requirement for optical. I was in the same situation, with older "sound system" without HDMI input and not wanting to spend $300 (...and that's without speakers) on an AVR overkill

Then I found this https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01HM1RP6G/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

No need for an AVR, and you don't need the source device to have optical out.

Just got the 500 on refurb and needed this to use the HDMI output of my cable box, so I pick up this lil splitter. Working like a champ! I have one output to the TV in my guest room, and the other to the Slingbox, which is hooked up via looong HDMI to a TV in the next room (office). The LEDs on it are really bright, I may tape over or remove them completely.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0089DSLMY/

You don't need a mixer unless you want to play the piano and the turntable at the same time. You can simply plug whichever one one you're using into the receiver, and unplug the other.

This is a bit of hassle, so you can buy something like this switch to switch between the TT and the piano.

Since you have a receiver, you're looking for passive as opposed to active speakers. Since you're playing the piano, you'll want accurate sound reproduction, so studio monitors would be a good choice.

With decent speakers, you don't need a subwoofer to play the piano. You might want one for your music. There aren't really any speakers that don't need a subwoofer - it always helps. (I don't have one because the 5.5" drivers in my speakers give enough bass for what I listen to, but I would get one if I listened to more EDM for example.)

Yeah, I suppose a little rig info would have helped. I have a

Samsung js7000 suhd tv with one UHD port.

>PS4 pro > single Ibis input

>Ibis output 1 > second switch(to TV)

>Ibis output 2 > PSVR "TO PS4" hdmi port on processor unit.

>Processor unit to second switch(TV)

These and these are the cables I've tried in various combinations with the PS4 pro hdmi that came with the system.

Like I said, all of the hdmi cables from the ps4 to tv support RGB and HDR.

HDR is not supported on either channel of the Ibis switch on a tv that is HDR capable. Both channels on the switch shows that HDR is not supported and can not work due to the vr processor, which leads me to believe that the only signal being picked up is the vr processor, and not that of the ps4 pro.

Amazing work man!

If you own your own place (or don't care about large holes in the wall) might I suggest one of these.

Really makes a huge difference in how clean something looks.

I use https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00LFX1UDM/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I it's manual (button to toggle) so perhaps not exactly what you're looking for but it is bi-directional so has more uses if you ever want to repurpose. It is also a full switch, not a splitter so it passes through the control signals etc so you shouldnt have any communication issues (so long as your wires are good enough, can be finicky for some people on some cards.


To be clear I use it to switch between rift and tv on my HDMI port (for audio to the tv and fewer adapters to the rift). I use the vive off dvi port through a dvi to HDMI adapter (and then a long extension to its box, without issue).

Ah good point, forgot about the two HDMIs! I've scoured and they seem to be really hard to find on ITX* motherboards (mine is a high end ITX that cost about $120 mainly due to overclocking capability, on board wifi, etc and it only had one also) - though you can pick up a splitter for like $10 on Amazon if that helps? https://www.amazon.com/Switch-GANA-Splitter-Pigtail-Supports/dp/B06VX1PKQ7/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1504964746&sr=1-2&keywords=hdmi+splitter

• Motherboards typically come in three sizes: ATX which is the biggest, MATX which is 'micro' ATX and the next one down, and ITX (or MITX some call it) which is the smallest - this case runs on ITX.

I'm not sure why you would want to do that, but I'd imagine a better option for that would be using an HDMI + Audio Splitter. Just switch your monitor/speakers/headset to the other input when you want to switch without trying to force it through the PC.

Something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/Tendak-Switcher-Selector-Supports-Automatic/dp/B01HM1RP6G/ref=sr_1_29?s=audio-video-accessories&ie=UTF8&qid=1503496042&sr=1-29-spons&keywords=Audio%2B%2B%2BHDMI%2BSwitch&th=1

Don't show them as duplicated because they will both display at the same time. If you want something cool and remotely controlled check out the below link. If you want something free then just right click the desktop go to graphics settings or display settings and only enable one at a time. But this switch is cheap for how cool it is.

https://www.amazon.com/EnjoyGadgets-Switcher-Selector-Support-Switching/dp/B003AQD5W6

It works quite well honestly. I'll try to detail it out as best I can.

So ideally you need 2 PSN accounts. You don't need to have PS Plus on both. Log both your accounts in on your PS4. Set your PS4 as your primary PS4. Your main PSN account is logged into your PS4, your alternate account is used on the remote play app because you cannot log into one account in two places (PS4 + remote play). The alternate account is streaming the video + audio from the primary account.

My PS4 feeds into an HDMI splitter which runs to my TV and to my monitor. When playing on my monitor I log into remote play using my alternate account and log into my PS4 on my primary account. This starts the audio feed to my PC where my headphones + amp are. Then I switch my monitor display over to its HDMI port and then I have the video. There is absolutely no delay for me on the audio or any input lag. I have noticed some people mention input delay, but that I believe is only if you use a Dualshock 4 within remote play hooked up to your PC instead of the controller still being connected to your PS4 if that makes sense.

I wouldn’t buy it.
Depends on your needs but something like this
ViewHD SPDIF | TOSLINK Digital Optical Audio Switcher 3x1 with Remote | Three Inputs to One Output | Model: VHD-TS3X1 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00G188Z7A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_K9cHDbDQ2HJZ4

Gets the job done.
Just search for an audio switch online. Cheaper and just as effective options exist.

This is what I use for my Xbox/PC/Laptop. Can be a little finnicky sometimes but for the price it works pretty damn well :)

threesome

• get an optical switcher 2x1 or more
  
  
• very few TV'S pass-through digital 5.1+ surround signals via its optical out. most strip it down to stereo. read the manual. so the mixamp won't get true and untouched DD 5.1, but instead down to a stereo 2-channel signal.
  
  
• if mixamp receives either signal then it outputs the following: 1) Stereo = virtual DD5.1 2) True and pure DD5.1 = true virtual DD7.1
  
  http://www.amazon.com/ViewHD-TOSLINK-Digital-Optical-Switcher/dp/B00G188Z7A/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1396290965&sr=8-1&keywords=optical+switcher

So I use all 3 with the Pro Wireless as well, but FOR STRICTLY AUDIO, no chat.

USB > PC

Then Optical > Console

I use this to connect my xbox and ps4 to, then run the optical out to the base station. Hit 1 for xbox, 2 for ps4.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00G188Z7A/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I get sound simultaneously through both (Can balance which is louder as well. I believe Voice is usb and Game is optical) Technically I get 3 sources of audio using BT to my phone. All works great.

I use https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B003L14WB8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 for that exact reason. It works like a charm and did not break the bank. On the plus side, if you use a Logitech Harmony remote, it will control the switch for you.

Came here to say this. Something like this is super easy and it's $50. I guess 80% of the budget went to the chair. :p

The transmitter comes with an optical in port as well as an optical out port. Not sure if you could connect to your receiver via optical out, I've never tried that. You could also use the analog in as well, but you probably would want the optical connection I assume. In this review it mentions that he connected the transmitter to the optical on his t.v. and got all audio through headset without switching a thing(scroll down)
http://theslanted.com/2013/12/12663/steelseries-spotlight-rival-mouse-9h-headset-h-wireless-headset/
Switches are cheap and work great:
http://www.amazon.com/ViewHD-TOSLINK-Digital-Optical-Switcher/dp/B00G188Z7A/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1394144689&sr=8-1&keywords=ViewHD+SPDIF
Sorry I couldn't be more help on that issue.

this is the one that I have, it works fairly well. There are plenty of threads on here about what the best switch to get is if you want to look into it more

Not sure why they recommend that one since it seems to only output 2 ch stereo audio. I just bought this last week for a different reason and it works great. There's also 4 way splitters to hook up all your HDMI devices.

I used something like this.
It might not have enough outlets for OP, but he might be able to use something like this or this at the top part.

I have been looking at some wall mounting possibilities as well for my dot. I dont have a plug in a good place for power so I am thinking about something like this to route the cable to a power source.

I do this as well, but I do have concern about the replug endurance of the HDMI cables. I was considering an HDMI switch but figured none would likely work.

would like to use something like this http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LFX1UDM

I am using the Elgato HD60 S witch is an external capture. It has been working great. The only reason I got an external card is to be able to move it to a different PC easily.

Lag is only an issue if your playing the game by watching the video through the capture card. This would be like connecting the console to the card, the card to the PC, and using the recording software window as your screen. This will be where lag comes into play.

To fix this delay on my setup (and to eliminate the pesky HDCP from my Yamaha receiver) I bought an HDMI splitter. This lets me bypass the capture card when connecting to my TV. I connect the console to the splitter, then I send one HDMI cable to the capture card and one directly to the TV. This setup allows me to eliminate any possible lag from my capture card in my game play. You could setup a monitor on the streaming PC to monitor the recording. I use Teamviewer on my laptop to connect to my streaming PC and control OBS.

Here is the splitter I got. I don't know if it is avaliable in the UK.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0089DSLMY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The capture card does not need to list support for each console. If it captures HDMI it will work on any device with an HDMI port.

I'd find a way to conceal the wire and go wired anyways. Wireless is good for phones and that's about it. They make kits to create an in wall conduit to run cables along with power.

[See here](Datacomm 50-3323-WH-KIT Flat Panel TV Cable Organizer Kit with Power Solution - White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001PB7UVA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_h4cQBb2KZ5705)

> I'm also going to set up some kind of whole home audio, and it occurs to me that the atmos speakers would be great for that.

The AVR doesn't have the ability to setup those speakers for both Atmos and whole home audio.

One thought I've had though, was to get a speaker switch like this https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B0796KGVXT

So that your whole home amp setup and the receiver both plug into that box, and you can manually switch between the two setups when needed.

Now is nearly to late to make this decisions. - Or better said some fundametal decisions hae already been made...


Your ethernet Ports will likely terminate in some kind of network cabinet.


if you are lucky they already installed a Patchpannel for you - If not that would be the first task.
Count the ports in the rooms - that is how many ports you will have there

You Need additionally a switch with the same number of ports there - better have some spare to put additional Hardware like a NAS there.

​

This is also where the router is placed. Please get a deacent router and not a cheap consumer grade...

​

WiFi will be distributed via Acces Points AP - either on the ceiling (better option) if not available (because someone did't put the neccesary cables there) some in wall APs

​

Here is a List of some hardware - please nothe they are purely guesswork because you did't speccify what is there and has been installed:

I quessed not to big an install with nothing installed but also no ceiling mounted ports for APs...

​

24 Port Patchpannel 28$
https://www.amazon.com/TRENDnet-Unshielded-Connectors-Color-Coded-TC-P24C5E/dp/B00008AWL3/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=patch+panel&qid=1558956172&s=gateway&sr=8-5

Network Rack 6U 98$

https://www.amazon.com/TRENDnet-Unshielded-Connectors-Color-Coded-TC-P24C5E/dp/B00008AWL3/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=patch+panel&qid=1558956172&s=gateway&sr=8-5

Switch 24 Port PoE 399$

https://store.ui.com/collections/routing-switching/products/unifiswitch-24-250w

Router/firewall (no modem) 344$

https://store.ui.com/collections/routing-switching/products/unifi-security-gateway-pro

3x inn wall AP - Relpacing a network port 3x199$

https://store.ui.com/collections/wireless/products/unifi-ac-in-wall-pro-wi-fi-access-point

https://www.amazon.com/Auto-sensing-V-Switch-5-2-out/dp/B00DSQMVKU

This is what I have. I got a pair of them on ebay a bit cheaper, you can hunt around. It works great, if all you need is s-video or composite.

One downside is adding yet another AC wart to your probably already crowded power strips.

Ironic bonus: Came with several dozen different labels for the buttons.

This one auto switches for me. It's powered off my TVs USB and has been pretty good for two years now.

Came here to say that, cable channels are da bomb, next level up is these things if you are allowed. Easy to install, run the cables down behind the wall and out the other side, totally hidden. Really nice clean look

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001PB7UVA/

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075343YSZ/

Also, I totally lol'd at "speel"

I had the same issue with a black Friday special Samsung TV. Luckily I don't watch TV and use all external devices, Roku, BluRay and PS4. I used the monoprice receiver to output audio to my amplifier

Monoprice Blackbird 4x1 HDMI 1.4 Switch HDCP 1.4 with Toslink and Analog Audio Extractor 1080p@60Hz https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003L14WB8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_wCf3CbM1XSPFZ

This. We use the HDMI to HDMI with audio jack for the hen we do competitions. Works great!

Edit: here is what we use!!

avedio links HDMI to HDMI + Optical Toslink SPDIF + 3.5mm AUX Stereo Audio Out

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07H94D77V/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_1tqqDb9H14FQM

Just need an HDMI switcher. Your inputs would be your game pc and the PS4 pro. The output goes to your elgato, with the passthrough going to your monitor.

Since you're only talking about 2 inputs, you can go as simple as this thing. There's a whole sea of options though, so depending on what you want, you can have switchers with more inputs, multiple outputs (in case you want to do away with the need to use the elgato's passthrough to send to the monitor), and even optical/analog audio extraction.

This is what we use for our living room setup (6-input, 2-output, optical and analog audio extraction that's selectable between A/B outs). Obviously overkill for your needs, but this is just an example of what's out there, and it's pretty reasonably priced.

I got a splitter and it works pretty well. Pick up some short hdmi high speed cables as well.

Sewell IBIS 4K HDMI Switch Box, 2x1, White, 4K 60 Hz, HDCP pass-through (HDCP 2.2 support), 2x1 or 1x2 HDMI Bi-Directional Switch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06WP755QH/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_j7vBzb82KYH1A

So hdmi 1 is hdr/4k, while hdmi 2 is for psvr. I'm still figuring out a good way to get the tv to recognize it half the time, since the toggle on the switch doesn't refresh the hdmi signal. Turning on the psvr seems to do the flip.

And no, other than toggling the button on the switch, there's no plugging and unplugging.

I just did this a couple of weeks ago, running Nuforce STA200 paired with Emotiva UMC-200 and Kenwood KD-2070 paired with Sony 7065 powering SVS Prime Towers.
I bought this from Amazon ton make switching between amp faster.
Works great for me.

Hide them cables! These are easy to install on internal walls. Can be found in most home improvement stores.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00193U3O0/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_dp_ss_1?pf_rd_p=1944687642&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B00379L0AU&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=1J0DC3AVDDEKKEMKXV3Q

You don't need a full KVM switch, just a basic HDMI one.

This is the one I got to switch between my Switch, hacked PS3, and any other random device I want to plug into my monitor. Works great. It's especially nice since it autoswitches to the first device that tries to output something; so if I was using my Switch, put it to sleep, and turn on my PS3, it switches without me having to press the button or anything.

I am using this and it works pretty well. Kind of tough to get to the middle position though...

You can get switches that can handle 4K at 60Hz (making them future-proof in case you upgrade your TVs at some point) for less than half as much as your device cost and there are even cheaper ones that are equivalent to your device, starting at around 15 bucks. Some of these have more advanced features, like picture in picture. This is quite handy, I've used this to watch over a download on a games console while watching something else on most of the screen, just to name one application (my screen already comes with this feature).

What I noticed is that most manufacturers appear to avoid naming the specific HDMI standard their devices support, at least on shop pages (it's often only in the manuals). However, by looking at the specs and comparing them to this table, it's usually not that hard to figure out which version of HDMI is being supported.

What you are looking for here in my mind is something like a switch box that you can use to switch between multiple HDMI devices with only one input going to the TV? Those are pretty common. Look at this: https://www.amazon.com/EnjoyGadgets-Switcher-Selector-Support-Switching/dp/B003AQD5W6

If by virtual monitor you mean you want to display the Switch gameplay on your PC desktop using the same monitor, you would need something like one of the Elgato capture cards to receive and display the image. This tends to introduce a good deal of latency, however, as it takes a few milliseconds for the device to receive the signal and pass it to your PC for display. They also aren't cheap.

Alternatively you could get a cheap HDMI switcher. Plug both your PC and your Switch into the switcher, plug the one HDMI output into your monitor, and now you only have to push a button to swap between them instead of going through your monitor's settings.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06VX1PKQ7/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_13F1BbTPSWVXA

This one is rated to support 4K devices and the reviews seem to be good.

I bought a simple reversible HDMI cable switch for this. So if I want to use the Rift, it's a single button to press to switch it. Perhaps if you do a little research you might find a KVM switch that works to not only switch the HDMI, but also to switch the USB. This also can save on the sensitive pins on your cables. You might also consider a 3 way switch, so that you can switch over to nothing at all, and have everything disconnected, if you can find such a thing.

There you go: http://www.amazon.com/Certified-Switcher-Toslink-Digital-Coaxial/dp/B003L14WB8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1322747964&sr=8-1

(I was on my phone before)

edit: Like I said, it didn't last long. Also, I remember my PC video card didn't like it. All other devices seemed to work fine. It was even programmable through my Harmony Remote.

Or would something like this work if I keep the 8800GT in there?

https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-DisplayPort-Active-Adapter-Converter/dp/B00A493CNY

Or a KVM Switch like this?

https://www.amazon.com/LINDY-Port-4K-DisplayPort-Switch/dp/B00ZK2S71W/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1481773724&sr=8-1&keywords=displayport+switch

Mounted this under the desk for power to stay off the floor, and then they run from the PC through the wall to the monitor.

Great idea about drilling the hole...

https://www.amazon.com/Opentron-OT4126-Metal-Protector-Outlet/dp/B00O8NVPBI/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1527186399&sr=1-1-spons&keywords=industrial+power+strip&psc=1


https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00193U3O0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

A friend had me set up 4 $30 11in chineese tablets from amazon in a frame and put one cam on each tablet, worked great

(Crappy tablets but ran the nest app fine)




You could set up multiple Raspberry Pi, bring a cam feed up on each pi, and connect their video output through a multiplexer and connect that to your TV

Orei Quad Multi-Viewer 4x1 HDMI Switcher 4 Ports Seamless Switch and IR Remote Support 1080P for PS4/PC/Stb/DVD/Security Camera https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07H5TF6X2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_rmYWDbEZCFB3E

Zettaguard 4K x 2K 4 Port 4 x 1 HDMI Switch with PIP (Picture in Picture)and IR Wireless Remote Control, HDMI Switcher Hub Port Switches for PS4 Xbox Apple TV Fire Stick Blu-Ray Player (ZW410) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BV1XBIY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_4mYWDbWYRC2DZ

I don’t have it but I see this one on Amazon which looks fine: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NTJET10/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_AAOHAbXFB8ZMP


There are a ton available, just look up “3.5mm audio switcher” on Amazon and you’ll find a bunch.

You could just run a splitter in reverse...

I know you said that you don't want to flip a switch, but you can save a lot of dough if you don't do an auto-sensing swithch: http://www.amazon.com/RadioShack-Auto-sensing-Switch-5--2-out/dp/B00DSQMVKU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1418433036&sr=8-1&keywords=av+switch

The best way to go about this is to get some sort of RCA stereo switch. You don't need anything fancy. I use this:

Fosmon A1602 RCA Splitter with 3-Way Audio, Video RCA Switch Box + RCA Cable for Connecting 3 RCA Output Devices to Your TV https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HNCPR92/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_34T4Ab1ZHH6BA

You'll go:

Turntable to pre-amp to switch
CD player to switch
Switch to speakers. Then just click the button to whatever source you're using.

I’ve found this switch to work pretty well. It’s a dumb switch and just physically plugs the cables in. There isn’t any internal logic. But I haven’t tested it with a Pimax yet. I use it to switch between computers for my 4K monitor. But I’ve been able to overclock my display to 70hz so the switch doesn’t seem to care what is going through it.

amazon link

If you get an hdmi switch with audio extraction, any dac will work with it. In the case of the modi, just run an optical cable from the hdmi switch to the modi. You'll get the best quality audio that way.

Lmao $30 for an hdmi bidirectional splitter?! It's under 10 on [Amazon] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079JQ9XXV/)

Oh that's easy then! You can get splitters like this where you can just flip back and forth between the inputs when you want. Some others may come with a remote.

If you really want to just have both always on I believe you'd need a mixer like this one but they are more expensive than a simple splitter.

First of all, no splitter will allow you to use the two displays independently, it will always duplicate displays.

The best value switch I can find is this one for HDMI

https://www.amazon.ca/Fosmon-Bi-Directional-Switcher-Passthrough-Nintendo/dp/B00LFX1UDM/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=display+port+switch&qid=1562088158&s=gateway&sr=8-4

​

Or this one (more expensive) for DP

https://www.amazon.ca/Lindy-Port-4K-DisplayPort-Switch/dp/B00ZK2S71W/ref=sr_1_6?keywords=display+port+switch&qid=1562088158&s=gateway&sr=8-6

​

For both of these you would need two adapters.

​

If you already have the USB splitter, maybe try USB to display port, but those are very expensive 60+ each

I used this 2 years ago worked out great. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001PB7UVA/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I bought this one and it works great. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00G188Z7A/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I bought this about 9 months ago. It's works great and can be powered off the tv's usb port.

I just got a Sony Bravia and set up my psvr version 1 last week with a PS4 Pro.

If you don’t want to keep unplugging HDMI cords you could get this:

Sewell IBIS 4K HDMI Switch Box, 2x1, White, 4K 60 Hz, HDCP pass-through (HDCP 2.2 support), 2x1 or 1x2 HDMI Bi-Directional Switch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06WP755QH/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_zVg3Ab9HCQR82

These cables support 4K HDR as well:

4K HDMI Cable 6ft (2-Pack) - Atevon High Speed 18Gbps HDMI 2.0 Cable - HDCP 2.2 - 4K HDR, 3D, 2160P, 1080P, Ethernet - 28AWG Braided HDMI Cord - Audio Return for TV, Monitor, Blu-ray Player, Apple TV https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XP129CT/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_u1g3Ab1WD5A27

I'm using this. It works great. HDMI 2.0 and HDCP 2.2.

I bought this cheap one a few months ago to switch between a PC and Nintendo Switch. Works great. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B079JQ9XXV/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

3.5mm switches will be tough to find, as the ONLY place that's really used is in headphones or old computers. Use something like this


Something like this is also an option also using 3 3.5mm to RCA adapters, you just won't use the video portion.

If you get another component that needs 4K 60Hz, you can always grab a cheap HDMI splitter(one that supports 4K 60 Hz). Like this one.

3 to 1 HDMI pigtail switch - $8, no remote, it should auto sense, but you will likely need to use the button to swap inputs. Does not require external power.

3 to 1 HDMI switch box - $18, remote control, requires external power. This one is much nicer because all the cables plug into the back, so you'll have a much cleaner set up. You can also leave it right in front of your monitor and simply push the button to switch inputs.

Does it look like this?



HDMI Switch,GANA 3 Port 4K HDMI Switch 3x1 Switch Splitter with Pigtail Cable Supports Full HD 4K 1080P 3D Player https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06VX1PKQ7/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_3yGHzbTQBETZ3

You are looking for something like this switch


edit- to say i used the search term:

2 amp one speaker switch

in case you'd like to refine or otherwise use it to look at other sites

After a billion hours of reading...I figured out my audio issue, and understand it.

An HDMI input carries sound back to a device, which gets read, converted, and pushed back out.

My particular TV pushes Dolby Digital Plus (DD+) over HDMI. Most device support Dolby Digital (DD) but but DD+, so it has to be converted to DD, or else it gets bumped to Stereo.

Some TVs convert and pass it through as either, but not mine.

A fire stick and Apple TV do the decoding and convert DD+ to DD for you, so everything works fine.

Chromecast, Sonos, and the old Shield (another device I've been looking at) can't convert the signal from DD+ to DD, so my audio gets scaled down to Stereo.

The new Shield that just came out yesterday CAN do the conversion.

So.... To fix my problem, I can by the new Shield.

Or

I can buy something like this....

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07H94D77V/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_i_TW6TDb1QVHB6G

Setup: From TV to HDMI Out on this box > Chromecast would go to HDMI In on this box, SONOS would plug into the optical out on this box.

or go super lazy like me and get one that has a remote to swap inputs. remote optical 3>1

sounds like you want something on these lines.
http://www.amazon.com/Stereo-Manual-Selector-Sharing-Switch/dp/B00NTJET10/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1463941099&sr=8-2&keywords=3.5mm+switch

1 input from source, and 4 options for output controlled by the button interface. it is not exactly aesthetically pleasing imo.

the one you were looking at seems to be a full out/in switch, aka switches between out/in 1-4, so yes you would need to unplug and plug things in, which if you are going to do that anyways it makes it rather pointless (it would be easier and cheaper just to buy a 3.5mm extension cable instead, since thats what it would essentially be for you at that point). that one serves a specific need, of someone with multiple sources and multiple outputs.

First: Canada, or US?

Second: Online, or in-store?

Third: Warranty possible, not necessary?

Fourth: Edge-lit or not, the difference when it comes to LED's is very minimal, unless you're a TV or A/V purist/tester.

I think /u/vitras has a good option, since the 350$ card can buy you a set of speakers...

If I may ask though... why 3 HDMI? You can just get one of these

If you are allowed to drill holes (I see the TV is mounted), you really should do something like this:


Datacomm Electronics 50-3323-WH-KIT Flat Panel TV Cable Organizer Kit with Power Solution - White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001PB7UVA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_rJ6mDb8BN2EDM

You already have a Modi right? I would just leave that connected to the PC and pick up an SMSL 793ii and use that with the PS4. If you want to keep using the Magni as the amplifier then I would get a FiiO D03K or SMSL 192-Pro and a stereo RCA switcher like this. Otherwise, yeah you'd be looking at selling the Modi you have and picking up the uber version instead unless you have some other use for two Modis.

I haven't tried it but what if you use something like this: https://www.amazon.com/avedio-links-Extractor-Splitter-Converter/dp/B07H94D77V/ref=pd_sbs_23_t_0/144-5444921-2325455?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B07H94D77V&pd_rd_r=902ed8e7-fc83-4fd9-a571-45cf1f2f7bc9&pd_rd_w=hJI8M&pd_rd_wg=V0FyX&pf_rd_p=5cfcfe89-300f-47d2-b1ad-a4e27203a02a&pf_rd_r=YKADZBMQABMM1VBSJZBG&psc=1&refRID=YKADZBMQABMM1VBSJZBG

​

Use a chromecast (the normal hdmi one) and adapt it to this for 3.5mm out ?

Another use posted this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001PB7UVA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_xyQHybSRV0P6H

I haven't looked to see if it is in accordance with the national electric code, but if it is, it would make the job a lot easier

Cable i'm using :

https://www.amazon.com/Cable-supports-FullHD-Ethernet-KabelDirekt/dp/B00SVE6YF2

Switch you need:

https://www.amazon.com/Sewell-Switch-pass-through-support-Bi-Directional/dp/B06WP755QH


Works perfect

Not sure how much, if any, lag this might introduce, but have you thought of a display port switch?
https://www.amazon.com/LINDY-Port-4K-DisplayPort-Switch/dp/B00ZK2S71W/ref=sr_1_2?s=audio-video-accessories&ie=UTF8&qid=1492470189&sr=1-2&keywords=display+port+switch

Cheers.

Get something like this - https://www.amazon.com/Stereo-Manual-Selector-Sharing-Switch/dp/B00NTJET10

Plug your speaker into the in/out port, then everything else into the 4 selector stereo in/out ports, then use the selector buttons to switch. You'll need some male to male 3.5mm cables as well.

First, questions.

• Why are your monitors all using different connections? Are they all different models? If they're the same, why not just have them all use Displayport?
  
• How far away will the TV be away from the tower? Would you need a cable longer than 6ft to connect them? Considering that the cable will need a good amount of slack for cable management, as well.
  
  Now, a suggestion.
  
  
• If your monitors all have Displayport... ports, just hook them all up to Displayport. If for some reason you can't, or just really don't want to, you'll need a way to connect your HDMI TV to a Displayport. You don't even have to get an adapter box, you can just use a wire with HDMI on one end, Displayport on the other.
  
  Anyway, some options.
  
  
• Software Switch - I'm assuming you use Windows 10. If you do, you can just switch your active screen without having to do anything more than using a Keyboard shortcut. Display Switch (Windows button + P) will allow you to quickly switch your display option, allowing you to quickly turn your TV's input on or off. However, I don't know if this will mess with any of your display settings, it might. If it does, you'd have to fiddle with the other two screens' settings every time you switch back to your desk. If you do this option, by the way, and you keep a keyboard on your rig, you can just use the shortcut to switch between displays.
  
  
• Hardware Switch - An adapter box that switches your output between two screens (like this, for example). You'd have to have to physically press the button each time you switch between your desk and TV (though they do make ones that have a remote), but this way you wouldn't have to worry about any software issues. You'd connect this to your main monitor and the TV, and simply press the button to switch between them. Your PC would re-adjust the resolution for you (it would detect that the screen its outputting to changes), but other than that it wouldn't have an affect on it, it would just think that your middle monitor is now the TV. You'd still only be projecting the game screen to one display at a time, so it wouldn't have any affect on the game's performance.
  
  
• Software Mirroring - Exactly as it sounds. One of the options in the Display Switch panel is Duplicate, which mirrors your main monitor's output to your TV. You could just leave this on, and just turn your TV on or off as needed. The only problem is that since your system would be outputting the game to two displays, it may have a negative affect on the system's performance. This is the option I don't recommend.
  
  
• Hardware Splitter - A box that takes one input and mirrors it to two outputs (example). It wouldn't be a switch, it would just constantly mirror the output to two displays. The difference is that your GPU would only be making one output, the box is just sending the signal to two displays. This way, it shouldn't have an affect on your PC's performance. Just turn the TV on and off as needed.
  
  
• Separate System - This is the extreme option, having a separate PC for your rig entirely. If the only games you play on your PC are racing sims, you could just use your current PC for the rig and have a new PC for your desk, its specs depending on what kind of work you do with it. While this is, again, the logical extreme solution... it's not necessarily unreasonable to have separate systems for work and play.
  
  
  
  ^(Notes)
  
  ^(- None of these options should introduce lag, but if you get a splitter or switch box, make sure they're noted with low-latency and check the reviews.)
  
  ^(- You could stream the game to your TV with something like the Steam Link... but your TV is in the same room as the PC-- hell from the sounds of it, it's within the same arm's reach as the TV. Streaming it is alright if the system and the TV were across the house, but its a needlessly complicated and clunky idea in this situation.)
  
  ^(- If you do use a hardware solution, keep in mind that the small consumer boxes can only use cables of a reasonable length. Generally speaking, you shouldn't use a cable longer than 9ft from the box to your TV, or the wire won't carry the signal to the display. Longer than that, you'll probably need a) ^(signal repeater)^(.)
  
  
  
  If you have any questions, let me know. I hope this helps you find your answer.
  
  EDIT: More info.

I use this guy: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DSQMVKU/ref=s9_simh_gw_p23_d0_i3?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=desktop-1&pf_rd_r=19B33HS2JN0SW9M4CB5B&pf_rd_t=36701&pf_rd_p=1970559082&pf_rd_i=desktop

Requires to be plugged in (which is the only down side) but it auto-switches so I don't even need to push a button, just power on the console I want to play and BOOM

If you plan to do wireless access points you can use a poe switch to power them. With a managed switch rebooting the access point is as easy as turning the port on and off from the switch management. Always run 2 cables at least to each location. You will always find more things to plug in.

You will need a punch down tool for the keystones. Also to make it correct you should have a patch panel at the switch location to terminate the cables. punch down tool
Patch Panel
Patch Panel mounting bracket

You could also buy a longer cord, route the cord horizontally to the door frame and the down along it and then back over to the outlet. You could also buy a kit that would allow you to do the cable through the wall. Like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001PB7UVA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_kdJ2CbBYR4D6W

Alright. How many input are you looking for?

There's quite a few different ones of that variety out there, actually. Look up with "stereo switch" or something along those lines. For example, here's a 1-4 switch with RCAs, and here's one with 3.5mm sockets. No idea of the quality of these, though.

Or you could always build one yourself (or have someone put it together for you). Really easy and cheap little DIY project! I'm currently using in my setup a 1-3 switch I built myself for switching between desktop speakers and two headphone amps.

Bluetooth can sound pretty good, but it's variable depending on the specific protocols each piece of equipment supports. Ultimately, though, using wireless for a permanent connection is sort of silly. You'd be better-off with an HDMI ARC extractor.

Do you have pre-outs for the main channels themselves, rather than Zone 2?

If so, use those and just run the stereo amplifier even for the HT use. I do this in my own setup, but the stereo receiver runs my subwoofers rather than my mains.

You can use the Zone 2 pre-outs, but you can't have two amps connected to the speakers directly. You would need a switch, something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/Amplifier-Receiver-Speakers-Selector-Switcher/dp/B0796KGVXT

/u/_Asthenos

Actually there are some ways you can do this. A KVM would be best (not sure how you can afford an alienware tower and a macbook pro, but not a simple peripheral device...)

These are just examples of the device types im talking about, i have not used these and will not suggest using them. Do your own research before buying stuff:


https://www.amazon.com/UGREEN-Selector-Computers-Peripheral-Switcher/dp/B01N6GD9JO


and


https://www.amazon.com/HDMI-Switch-4K-Splitter-Bi-Directional/dp/B079JQ9XXV/

I haven't tried it myself, but I've been told if you buy something like this, you can use it on the PSTV.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0089DSLMY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

AFAIK you'd need a converter like this one. Or if you don't want to mess around converting video signals, an HDMI switch would also work.

I went ahead and got this switch. Seems like a combo of what you described. It has a 3.5mm jack that will hopefully play nicely with my 2.1 speakers.

 

Regarding the audio out from the projector, I've read in numerous reviews that the audio chip on the projector is low quality and that the bass/treble are severely lacking coming from the projector. Also there were several reports that the projector adds hissing sounds/glitches. I decided to avoid it altogether.

 

I'll report back once I get everything up and running.

You need an HDMI switch with an audio extractor. I've successfully used this switch before: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01K7BZ1XC

I can output either as Optical, Emulate ARC return or Analog Audio.

Be that as it may, with the push to 4K older HDMI switching receivers are quite cheap on the used market. It might not be that much more just to get a used Denon that's about 3-4 years old.

Thanks! I ended up going with this one. http://www.amazon.ca/EnjoyGadgets-Switcher-Selector-Control-Switching/dp/B003AQD5W6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1347161136&sr=8-1

You need an HDMI splitter like this: https://smile.amazon.com/HDMI-Switch-4K-Splitter-Bi-Directional/dp/B079JQ9XXV/ref=sr_1_3?crid=1GXEWZW5WU4M8&keywords=hdmi+splitter&qid=1573659955&sprefix=hdmi+split%2Caps%2C165&sr=8-3

​

That is a simple one, if you are worried about HDR going through the splitter, you may need to look for a splitter that supports HDR.

Are you sure you're gaming at 4K? I don't think that is the case if you're getting 90-100fps with a GTX 970, unless you're playing some less graphically intense games.

You can go for an HDMI A/B switch and use that to switch the HDMI input between the rift and the TV so you don't have to reconnect the cables every time. When you switch to use the rift, change the TV Input to the display port/HDMI adapter just to get a picture and keep that at 1080p.

I recently bought this by mistake, but im sure they come in other flavors.

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00LFX1UDM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

HDMI Input ---> Button Swaps between two outputs. But the setup you are looking for might be kinda hard to setup.

You could get a switch. I'm not sure that this one would work, but something like this.

Would something like this work? https://www.amazon.com/Switch-GANA-Splitter-Pigtail-Supports/dp/B06VX1PKQ7/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1519836368&sr=8-3&keywords=hdmi+port+extender&dpID=51lwkqsTIfL&preST=_SY300QL70&dpSrc=srch

Something like this?

https://www.amazon.com/Amplifier-Receiver-Speakers-Selector-Switcher/dp/B0796KGVXT/ref=sr_1_41?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1538313300&sr=1-41&keywords=speaker+selector+switches

They are all ran through the wall. I bought a kit to run the cable behind the TV stand to behind the tv. It is a certified power in wall kit from amazon. Datacomm 50-3323-WH-KIT Flat Panel TV Cable Organizer Kit with Power Solution - White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001PB7UVA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_62BDAb3KFC6R8. It’s a 25’ HDMI Cable from my computer to the TV and 15 footers for the stuff directly under it.

HDMI splitters that happen to be HDCP strippers. Stuff like:

https://www.amazon.com/BG-520-splitter-switcher-XBOX360-Blu-ray/dp/B0089DSLMY

But you need to carefully read the reviews, as models change over time, and some of items are less reliable than others.

Sorry, no. It doesn't work that way. This switch is $11. If you don't have prime I'm sure a friend or coworker will buy it for you and you can give them the cash.

When I wall mounted my TV, I used one of these recessed wall plate to pass the power and HDMI cable through the wall to the TV:

https://www.amazon.com/DataComm-45-0001-WH-1-Gang-Recessed-Voltage/dp/B00193U3O0/

The cables can be positioned at any angle, so they don't stick out at far. Actually, if you look at a female HDMI wall plate, the cable is sticking out straight out of the wall and harder to hide behind a mounted TV.

Honestly, I don't see the benefit of a HDMI wall plate over a cable passthrough plate. Either way, you have a HDMI cable and power cable running from the wall to the TV. One isn't "cleaner" than the other.

If you want a power outlet instead of just the cord for some reason, this is also an option:

https://www.amazon.com/Datacomm-45-0031-WH-Recessed-Voltage-Receptacle/dp/B004GZ89N0/

Yep looks exactly the same.

Edit here is the Amazon link for the monoprice one I posted. This one just actually claims Dolby TrueHD and DTS. Still need to find a tinting tape for those LEDs. Maybe sugru

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003L14WB8/ref=redir_mdp_mobile?pc_redir=T1