I have an Ecobee4 thermostat (although Alexa doesn’t work as well for me as I hoped) w/ Ecobee remote sensors mounted in every room. Not only is this great for managing the temp in the house overall, but now I can include temp changes in my automations and geo-fencing.

In addition, although I find them a bit slow to respond when using them as room entry motion sensors, the Ecobee remote sensors are great for automatically turning off the lights when a room is no longer occupied.

I also recently added some non-HomeKit “smarter” switches in my bathroom and laundry room. In the laundry room, I put a simple Lutron (not Caseta) motion sensor switch to auto turn the light on/off when someone comes/goes from the laundry room. Works fantastically, it’s simple, and not too expensive.

In my bathroom, I added three new Lutron (not Caseta) switches.

• 1 is a dimmer w/ motion sensor... I use it for the ceiling fixture to come on automatically at 50% brightness (if the room is dark enough). It also turns the light off automatically.
  
  
• 1 is a fan controller with a built-in timer. This thing is great. I set it to a 30-minute default countdown when turned on. The time can be adjusted from 5-60 minutes. Double tapping the fan switch turns it on until someone turns it off.
  
  
• 1 is a plain switch to control the vanity mirror light bar. Manual on/off... that’s it.
  
  The first two of those switches are far more programmable than I thought... reading the instructions really paid off! :)
  
  The Lutron Claro wall plates are really great as well. They are very clean, simple, and modern looking... and their 2-part design makes it really easy to adjust all your switches for a precision installation (i.e. flush and straight).
  
  In my bedroom, my bedside lamps are controlled by 1 Lutron Caseta lamp dimmer w/ remote. I use the same style Caseta lamp dimmer for a few other standalone lamps... and even used one to automate (just on/off) my outside LED holiday lights last winter (the dimmability of which was fantastic, as they are normally way too bright).
  
  In conclusion, before spending a bunch of money, my advice would be to think carefully about how you/others use certain rooms and if a motion detection switch would suffice or if a more complex automation control is needed. Also... do the math. As others have pointed out, one alternative may be way more cost effective over another when you factor in the number of bulbs and/or switches involved.
  
  One last thing... I am renting a room to a guy who's on a totally different schedule than me and as such, I never knew if he was in his room sleeping or out of the house elsewhere. So... since I had previously added him to my HomeKit household... I use a combination of geofencing with his phone, and the Ecobee motion sensor in his room, to switch on/off a particular lamp when he comes & goes. That way... it's easy for me to know if I need to be quiet, or if I can rock out with my socks out.
  
  *EDIT: Added a bunch of links and more...

Non-abode cameras are limited as to what will work directly with Abode. Not a major loss in my opinion. I have one Nest camera, from my girlfriend's old apartment install, tied in to abode but it doesn't do too much with abode. It only seems to pull a single capture upon me manually telling it to. There are only a few that intergrate with abode.

That said I haven't delved to deep into it. I personally mostly use poe IP cameras with the feeds piping to a local computer running Blueiris. Cheap, local, and pretty robust software.

Automation is fairly good with Abode. Check the list on the sidebar of this sub-reddit. Use that list for official and unofficialy supported devices. Not all zwave devices are automatically compatible. I have most of my light switches with zwave connections and a garage door controler. Beyond that and Abode's devices I use other individual apps to control it. Neato vacuum and Rainmachine sprinkler controls for example I'd rather have their own company's interface.

I've gone with the Leviton brand switches. I liked the feel and control of their dimmers, while still being similar to a regular switch. This is a plus when the tech illiterate or guests come over and try to use them. They synced up first time with no issues. Fast and responsive when commands are sent. Dimming works well through Abode. I also have a Phillips color light strip that works just as well.

For my "dumb" ceiling fans on or off control (no stage or variable speed remotely):
Leviton DZ15S-1BZ Decora Smart Switch with Z-Wave Plus Technology, White/Light Almond, Works with Alexa https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MZ0WVKH/

Leviton DZ1KD-1BZ Decora Smart 1000W Dimmer with Z-Wave Plus Technology, White/Light Almond, Works with Alexa https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MQX5L8P/

For bedside lamps, and a few other lamps:
Leviton DZPD3-2BW Decora Smart Plug-in Dimmer with Z-Wave Plus Technology, White, Works with Alexa https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N7NPRSB/

I have other Wemo switches in the bathrooms that don't interface with Abode. I did this because they offered a more direct way to put automated countdown trimmers on exhaust fans. I really couldn't find a way with Abode & IFTTT to do countdown timers based on when I clicked the switch. Abode with IFTTT can do sun up, sun down, specific times, and other triggers but not count downs from when the switch was clicked on. There may be a way but I'm not much for programming. I also liked the wemo dimmer switch look, but only for the bathrooms since they couldn't do a two/three way switch. I don't normally need to control the bathrooms remotely, but can through the Wemo app if I need to.

I can't speak to voice automation. I have an Alexa pod but don't like to use it for other reasons.

Beyond that I went with Abode sensors. They work very well. I got onto Abode in part because of the water leak sensors. They work and saved me some water damage when the AC froze over and started leaking in the attic. The occupancy sensors are neat but I haven't made good use of them. The temperature sensors work but I wish they kept a running history of temps.

Windows and doors I used the old security system's reed switches and wiring soldered into individual abode door sensors. Works like a charm and is completly hidden. Added in acoustic and vibration/glass break sensors in various rooms for added layer of sensing.

Smoke alarm detector works well with my existing smoke alarms. They call you pretty darn fast with the monitoring service. I'd like to upgrade to something like Nest's smoke alarms but they currently are expensive to replace a large home's worth of fire alarms and don't automatically call the fire department through Abode.

Let me know what other questions you have and I'll try to answer them.

Oh wow, I have non-24 and not very much money, so I've actually been working on doing basically the same thing! Right now I have some fluorescent grow lights plugged into a wemo switch, and let me tell you..... it's certainly not the same.

The bad news is that from what I can find, there's no real good way to do it cleanly if you want dimming, since most smart plugs are a simple binary on/off. I have found a few options though!

(I'm sure you know but please note the requisite be super careful around AC voltage, it'll make you dead)

The first is something along the lines of this, what's meant to be an in-wall dimmer to replace a 1-gang light switch. That's probably gonna be the easiest way to do it -- just attach it to the wires in-line, and you're good to go. There are other, similar options that may be cheaper, especially if you can use something like z-wave.

I don't have a link atm, but I also know that I've seen someone take a normal cheapo wall dimmer and just... hook a lil servo motor up to it. That's also an option?

After some searching, I did find what seems to be the one plug-in smart dimming outlet that doesn't require a hub. Heads-up though, it's only rated to 100W with LEDs so you'll wanna be careful. Not having look much into this, I make no promises, but my cursory googling actually seems really promising. Price isn't horrible, either.

So here's where I thought to check the wonderful world of Sonoff. It's not the CLEANEST solution visually, but they actually do make a smart socket -- if you're willing to drop $60 and be done, just get six of these guys here.

EDIT: Just kidding, those bases also do not have dimmers, so they won't work. But here's a video of someone using one of their surprisingly cheap wall dimmers to do just what you want!

Here are some things to put on your WL. :)

First, an indoor [grow light.] (http://www.amazon.com/Hydrofarm-JSV2-2-Foot-Start-System/dp/B0006856EQ/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1422226251&sr=8-4&keywords=grow+light&pebp=1422226264209&peasin=B0006856EQ) This one is quite good; the hanging apparatus lets you raise and lower the light to the best level for the type of plants you're growing.

Second, a [timer] (http://www.amazon.com/Hydrofarm-TM01715D-7-Day-Digital-Program/dp/B001BPOBTY/ref=pd_sim_lg_2?ie=UTF8&refRID=0E2RX335ER9JP2WTKJX5) to turn the light on and off. This is a surprisingly good timer for only $16; I use these for everything -- grow lights, heat mats, the pump for my mantis humidifier...

Next, a little [growing center.] (http://www.amazon.com/Hydrofarm-TM01715D-7-Day-Digital-Program/dp/B001BPOBTY/ref=pd_sim_lg_2?ie=UTF8&refRID=0E2RX335ER9JP2WTKJX5) I linked this one because it has a 7" dome -- I think that's immensely useful. When you're just getting seeds to sprout before putting them outside you can use a smaller dome. However, if you're going to grow them inside longer, it helps to have a taller dome.

That germination station comes with a heat mat, which is why it costs $40. I'm rather ambivalent on the heat mat. Many people swear by them, and I do think they help certain types of seeds. (And they help keep up the humidity in the dome.) If you decide to forgo the mat, though, just look for a growing station with a 7" dome.

I like [this one,] (http://www.amazon.com/9GreenBox-Starter-Germination-Station-Complete/dp/B00IMP1HVQ/ref=sr_1_6?s=lawn-garden&ie=UTF8&qid=1422226397&sr=1-6&keywords=germination+station&pebp=1422226594696&peasin=B00IMP1HVQ) incidentally. Notice that it has an outer tray, and you put the seedling pots in it -- this is perfect; it allows you to use whatever size seedling pots you want.

And then the fun part -- search for seeds and put them on your WL. Since you're growing inside, you can grow virtually anything!

However, I recommend NOT starting carnivorous plants from seed. CVs are notoriously fickle, and they're extremely difficult to raise from seed. If you're interested in CVs, you can have young CVs sent to you. Before you do, though, do some reading so you know what to expect -- caring for them is very different from other plants. I can give you some help there, too. :)

General list is:

• CO2 bottle (5# / 2.6 kg bottle).
  
• Regulator with solenoid.
  
• Needle Valve.
  
• Some way of dispensing the CO2. This varies from Atomiser, Reactor or Bubbler.
  
• Tubing.
  
• Light timer.
  
• Drop checker.
  
  I am planning on doing this. Buying a 2.6kG CO2 bottle, Getting a cheap UP Aquarium Regulator, Getting a Needle Valve, Building a Cerges Reactor or going with an Inline Atomiser, Drop Checker and hooking the solenoid through a Light Timer.
  
  Only extra is CO2 tubing, which can be gotten from pet stores or home brew (beer) stores, and teflon tape for wrapping the regulator stuff with. This can be obtained at hardware or plumbing stores.
  
  The drop checker measures the amount of CO2 in the water via it's acidity. If the indicator is too yellow then you're running too much CO2 and the water is too acidic (< 6.5 pH I think). Green is good (6.5 to 7 pH) and Blue is not enough CO2.
  
  You want around 30 parts per million of CO2 in your water which equates to that drop checker being a nice light green (light as in close to yellow).
  
  In the end you'd get a crappy version of this awesome system. Cheap but it would still work. You just need to program CO2 to turn on an hour before your lights turn on and an hour before your lights turn off.
  
  Edit: This is often referred to as a "high tech tank". When you are injecting CO2 and have good lights and added nutrients then your ecosystem will do well.
  
  At the moment I have high lights but no added CO2 or fertilisers. My tank does well but not great. I still have issues with algae occasionally and plants that aren't dark or vibrant green.
  
  Think of a tank in this way. It's like a stool with 3 legs on it. You want all 3 legs to be even to make a nice seat.
  
  The 3 legs of a well maintained planted tank are Lights, CO2 and Fertilisers. If you're not providing enough of one of these "legs" then your stool becomes unstable and you won't get the best use out of it. What you want is to balance the addition of CO2, Fertilisers with the amount of light so that you get great plant growth, no algae growth and the fish are happy and breathing well. It's a fairly hard thing to get perfectly balanced, but when you do you end up with something like this. (You can see the drop checker in the top left corner and the ceramic disc "bubbler" in the right lower corner). Or this.
  
  http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/index.php is a great resource to read though too.

That's pretty awesome and certainly very powerful/customizable. Nice job!

> I just couldn't justify dropping $60 for a circle with 3 buttons on it, and no dimmers.

I just wanted to clarify, the Hue Tap switch can, in fact, have one of the its buttons assigned to a dimmer mode, via Hue Labs. It cycles through three levels of (adjustable) brightness. There are a handful of Android and iOS apps too, that can make the same assignment.

Also, the Hue Dimmer switch is just $25. Or $35 bundled with a white bulb.

Lastly, many don't realize this but the old Philips "LivingColors" remotes work perfectly fine (now) with Hue bulbs and hub.

Image of a compatible model here:

I've just set up my second one, and have them both working in different rooms of my house. And for less than $15 on Amazon or eBay, they're the cheapest (and actually most versatile) physical, light switches for a Hue system. You can even select the desired color right from the remote. I love them! (Discussion here.)

Thanks for sharing your ideas and work here, and enjoy!

Home assistant will interface with all sorts of products you can look at the Home Assistant website to see all things it interfaces with.

I will also say that this is the most active community and the fastest to incorporate new products. Over the last five months I have been tinkering with HA many new products have been incorporated.


As for the Iris Smart Plug it is a zigbee device that contains a Zwave radio. It will connect to your Zwave network and be an always on device (meaning that it will extend the reach of your mesh network) but you will not be able to control the on and off of the plug. I have two of them and they work great if you use something that has Zigbee radio.
If you are only going to utilize the Z-Stick you will want to use something like one of the following:

[Leviton VRPD3-1LW Vizia RF] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JFF4RG4/ref=twister_B01JJKURQS?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1) I have this one for my Christmas tree

GE Lighting Lamp Module with Dimmer Controller

[GE Z-Wave Wireless Lighting Control Outdoor Module] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0013V8K3O/ref=twister_B017SOTBJG?_encoding=UTF8&th=1) I have a few of these outside

As for the GE Duplex outlet, I have one or two of them but I really like the design and functionality of the Leviton VRR15-1LZ Vizia RF + Split Duplex Receptacle better.

As for light bulbs, I own Hue, Link, Cree, and maybe one more. They are all Zigbee bulbs so I connect them to the Hue hub and let it interface with HA. They work fine for my uses but I really don't care about the colors. When Lifx put its bulbs on sale a few weeks ago I almost bought some of the BR30 but didn't because they don't interface with Home Kit. I really don't need them since the fixtures already have a zwave switch but I thought it would be nice to change colors if I wanted to. Also I have found that some of the Zigbee bulbs loose the connection with the hub if they are turned on and off from a switch. I was hoping the Lifx being wifi would not do that.

Would anyone be interested in some youtube videos explaining my setup and discussing my experiences with products?

Remember what matters is the protocols that the hub supports.

I also like to think of some devices as 'accessory' or 'auxiliary' devices, which provide a function or connectivity to gadgets (like light switches, outlets, locks, etc.) versus 'main' or 'hub' devices, which serve to unify/centralize your accessory/auxiliary devices and give you a central interface.

Insteon is a little different, since it's more of an auxiliary device (since you need the Hub/Modem to communicate with Insteon devices), but the Insteon hub also tries to be a 'main' device--not that it's a bad thing. You can actually use this to your advantage and switch to an Insteon Modem to use your Insteon devices with other 'main' hubs like Vera and Smartthings.

Anyhow, the Wink 2 supports, Bluetooth LE, Kidde, Clear Connect, Z-Wave & ZigBee. You are not limited to the Wink-branded modules! You can get any Z-Wave module. That said, the Wink site pushes the Leviton DZC Series Z-Wave lamp dimmers, but you can just as well go with a different Leviton or a GoControl/GE/Linear.

That said, you may also want to double-check the web to ensure that whatever you get will work out of the box with the Wink itself. This site shows both of those I listed as working.

As for recommendations, I've heard good things about the Smartthings hubs as of late. Winks have mixed reviews, but I think most are happy with them, especially for an easy, 'turnkey' device.

Why not just use the tumble dryer - then the clothes come out all nice and warm!

But the best way might be to get a timer swtich, a space heater and build a large-ish sized box that can fit a complete load of laundry on --- maybe 3 ft long, 3 feet deep, 6 feet tall --- with stainless steel pipe or plastic pipe that can be used to lay the clothes over.

Put the space heater in the box, hook it up to the timer switch however you'd like, connect electrical power to the big box however you'd like (by creating a cord with a plug that you plug into the house power or by running house power directly to it) and then test it.

The space heater should have some temperature safety setting to make sure it doesn't get too hot. The switch ensures you don't forget and leave the heater on when you leave the house. The box keeps the warm air in the box to help save power.

With a temperature safety on the space heater you can set the heater to a specific temperature to avoid shrinking wool clothes. You'd have to do some research into the proper temperature.

Based on what you described, this is what I'd do, in general terms.

EDIT: Here's a Picture of what I was thinking of. A small exhaust hole at the top would probably help equalize temperature so the top of the box didn't get substantially warmer than the bottom (which you probably happen without a small exhaust hole at the top.

EDIT: Suck air from basement and try to exhaust it out of the house. Thanks to /u/iproblywontpostanywy for pointing out you'd end up with a lot of humidity in the box.

The only keys I've seen are those ugly toggle things you see in schools.

I would highly suggest the motion sensor route. I know what you're thinking, but the ones I recommend work pretty good and are not annoying.

If the switch is located near the door where you come in and is not obstructed, you can put one of these in there: http://www.amazon.com/Lutron-MSCL-OP153M-WH-Single-Pole-Multi-Location-Occupancy/dp/B00CAO4NUM/ . It's pretty smart and if someone turns it off, it will reset itself and after 5 minutes turn the motion sensor back on.

If it's a long hallway and you want to make it failsafe, you can get one of these ceiling attached motion sensors that runs off a battery that lasts at least 5 years: http://www.amazon.com/Lutron-LRF2-OCR2B-P-WH-Wireless-Ceiling-Mounted-Occupancy/dp/B005LPET0G/

That motion sensor should be paired up with Maestro RF switches and dimmers like this one: http://www.amazon.com/Lutron-MRF2-600MHW-WH-Wireless-Multi-Location-Wallplate/dp/B003U8Y9NS/ so it can work like any other dimmer, but will go off after a few minutes if nobody is there. You can set it to where it only works at night and if anybody is in the hall, it won't go off. It's very very accurate. Again, if someone turns it off, it will reset itself if nobody is around. If you are there, it will assume you turned it off for a reason and will keep it off. The logic in it is flawless.

Bonus, you can buy a pico remote switch (http://www.amazon.com/Lutron-PJ2-3BRL-GWH-L01-Maestro-Wireless-Control/dp/B00IZCQVO4/) and also pair it up with the switch and just keep it in your car and turn the lights on from your driveway or bedroom (30 feet). It's kind of like a poor man's home automation.

I use one of these with ST. I use a single LED bulb with it, and there is no leakage (where the bulb stays very dim when the device reports that it is off).

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JFF4RG4/ref=pd_lpo_60_lp_t_4?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=B2DSVATDP5S4G02RR64P

I have also used the MonoPrice Z-Wave dimmer, and that works fine with my lamps that have multiple bulbs, but on single bulb fixtures it leaks and leaves a dim glow.

Third option, like /u/breakfastbeerz points out, is to use Smart Bulbs. I have GE Link, and those are pretty good. I also have some Lightify Bulbs, and have had some Hue bulbs. The Lightify are just as good as the Hue, but half the price (and work natively with ST). I really like Lightify color bulbs, but the tuneable whites are nice for areas that you dont want or need color.

Daisy chain 2 smart plugs? Call it S and L. S is plugged into outlet controlled by switch. L plugs into outlet near your lamp. Lamp is plugged into L. Set your condition to if S is on then turn on L. and If S is off, then turn off L. it's alot easier to do with a hub.

or get one of these
Philips Hue Smart Dimming Kit, No Hub Required & Installation-Free, Exclusive for Philips Hue Lights (Works with Alexa Apple HomeKit and Google Assistant) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B016AEHU70/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_0ZEBDb3233Y9X

Awesome.


Is it something like THIS that is needed over what I PREVIOUSLY HAD?


$100 difference so it must "do something," right? LOL. Or do I need that dimmer plus a converter of sorts...?

Side note: You electricians are the best. My grandfather was one. Good man. Respect.

Hub: Wink Hub 2 -- very similar functionality as the SmartThings but more device type compatibilities (Lutron, etc.) and I'd recommend it since it seems to have a nicer user experience / easier setup, etc.
https://www.amazon.com/Wink-WNKHUB-2US-Hub-2/dp/B01KW8WGZQ/ref=sr_1_1

Lamps: I would recommend these since they are easy (no wiring). https://www.amazon.com/Leviton-VRPD3-1LW-Capable-Dimming-Module/dp/B00JFF4RG4/ref=sr_1_2 -- I prefer this to smart light bulbs since light bulbs can break and every bulb doesn't fit every fixture.

Voice Echo or Echo Dots, but that's mostly personal preference

TV Harmony

I got a family member very into home automation by simply purchasing a Wink Hub 2, an Echo Dot, and a Leviton Lamp Dimmer.

Thank you for the detailed response. For me, I will likely be using just basic white LEDS, not RGB, so color space isn't a factor in this particular project (just wanting better lighting in my garage).

I was planning on using these modular LED enclosures attached to the ceiling, and then I wanted to control their on/off capabilities with something compatible with the Hue app. For that I think the Gledopto Dimmer Switch might be able to work, I'd need to adapt it somehow from the three prong power outlet that's included in the enclosures.

Ideally I was hoping to find something like this smart outlet, but from the recent reviews it seems that it's not compatible with Hue. I have yet to find one that explicitly states that it is verified Hue compatible. This would be nice because then I wouldn't have to worry about rewiring like I will with the Gledopto dimmer.

It don't know much about the flickering, I will have to research that some more.

Again, thank you for the response, if I ever want to do more Hue projects with proper RGB lights, I will keep your advice about color protocols in mind.

Be very careful when buying smart switches to ensure that they will work with LED bulbs. The Leviton switches listed by abode as compatible will NOT work with LED bulbs.

If you want to use Leviton switches that WILL work with LED bulbs, this is their newest Z-wave switch.

Leviton DZ15S-1BZ Decora Smart Switch with Z-Wave Plus Technology

I have that switch and it works fine and dandy; just got it about a month ago. I'm assuming the dimmer would work just as well, but it's just a guess.

Others here have had good luck with the GE switches and LED bulbs. I started down the Leviton route and didn't want mixed brands, so haven't gotten any GE switches yet.

Also, it might be worth it to make sure you have neutral wiring in whatever location you want to install a switch. I have neutral wiring throughout my house, but there is one room where it looks like the electrician got lazy and the switch was wired from light, and therefore I don't have a neutral in that one.

Last I checked, the only color options were Hue and Lifx, but there may be more competition these days. I know GE Link was an option for Hue-bridge-compatible bulbs, but I think they are only white dimmable light, no color. They also weren't compatible with the HomeKit Hue bridge (if that's of any concern) but I feel like that may have changed in a firmware update. Cree is another one, but I have no experience with them.

Personally I've avoided wifi/bluetooth based (e.g. non-hub, like Lifx) options because it puts a lot of reliance on wifi which is already a crowded space typically. For areas where I don't need color Hue, I just bought this kit because it's only like $10 more than just the dimmer and gets you a white bulb at the same time. The dimmer can be programmed to control other bulbs, you can even set it for things like two taps sets a scene vs just on/off.

Ultimately, there's no real cheap way to get into this, especially if you want color bulbs. Go with kits where you can, they tend to be cheaper for what you get, like the hub and the dimmers, but it is going to be a bit of an investment either way. I'm not a big fan of mixing brands if there's a chance of inconsistency, but people seem to have good luck with GE and Cree if you're willing to take that chance. But again, with the dimmer kit, you're basically paying $10 per Hue, which offsets any savings of those brands anyway.

I was kind of hoping for a batteryless switch, but the Hue offering doesn't really look like a traditional light switch.
However, the remote control with a wall mount looks good and the batteries are supposed to last for 3+ years. That's good enough for me -- Phillips Hue it is.

(In case anyone is curious, the switch and the bulb are all that are required. However, I purchased separately so I could get a color bulb ($45), the switch ($25) and a hub ($50) to retain control from Google Assistant.)

Thanks a lot for the help!

To answer the bonus question, yes, definitely get a timer. They're inexpensive and make the lighting management very easy. I got this two-pack from Amazon (one for my basking light and one for the UVB tube) and they've worked great for several months now. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005WQIDHY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Great start for a low tech tank! I really like your stone placement. I think that it would be better if you grouped similar plants together. If it were me, i would put all of the java ferns in the back right, the grass in the middle and the anubia in the back left.

1. Did you bury the java fern? The rhizome needs to be attached to a rock or piece of drift wood and not buried or else it will start rotting and die.
   
   
2. With that anubia ensure that the 'crown' is exposed or else it will rot and die.
   
   
3. What kind of grass is that?
   
   
4. I think that if you had some smaller crypts and anubias with color that would look incredibly nice. You need at least two to three more mid ground plants and some smaller foreground plants like anubia nana 'petite to complete it. This will increase the depth and overall perspective of the tank.
   
   
5. Are you using osmocote root tabs? At a bare minimum since you are goin low tech, you will need to use this to fertilize the heavy root feeders in the inert substrate that you have. Here is a link for more info on why its important to use them!
   
   Quick run down of osmocote root tabs
   
   
6. what is your lighting time like? For low tech 8-10 hours is recommened so get a timer to automate the lighting a little bit like this one: Light timer
   
   
7. Any questions feel free to ask.

We are in the process of doing this now. We decided to go the smart dimmer option. Bought the switch because it doesn't require a separate hub, works great with Alexa but that's it, hoping that expand ability will increase over time with software revs. Also note you will need a neutral wire for the dimmers, we are retrofitting an old house so that required an extra day in the attic to re-wiring and running our power line appropriately.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01NASBN1V/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Ah completely different topic than I was expecting. The 12 solution I showed for the $18 battery seems like it would a perfect rechargeable replacement with significantly longer battery life.

Something like this:
http://www.amazon.com/Directed-Electronics-8601-Magnetic-Switch/dp/B0009SUF08

May be an alternative solution with a magnetic switch. You could put one end of the magnet on the trunk. As this magnetic package isn't the best, you can probably take any strong magnet and paint it black and adhere that in some fashion you see appropriate to the back of your trunk, and the light will turn on upon opening of the trunk.

I'm surprised they didn't put a light in that compartment for when you open the trunk, my civic hatchback has one back there which I've considered replacing with high end LEDs.

Heh, it's just my work office building. I guess I could try and use a spare ethernet at an unused desk to plug in the hub, but I'd rather just get something on the wifi.

I found this thing that says it can connect to 5 ghz in the user manual. Little expensive but probably my fastest option.

I'm just having some fun. It's something in a friend's office to tell them that I'm heading to lunch. Probably going to be some kind of lamp or laser projector. Just want to be able to turn it on and off from anywhere. Wish list would be something with an app that plays nicely with tasker too.

I did this to my house a few months ago to three bedrooms, all three fans had one switch for power but in order to turn the fan on/off we had to pull the chain. I ended up adding a dual switch box and adding an additional switch and running 12/3 wire so I could adjust speed control. All of the fans had to be removed and I had to go up in the attic which is never fun and locate the wiring in the fan in blown in insulation. I had to also add junction boxes because the wiring to the fans was a mess. There was 3 different wires per fan going in. The fan is just on a regular switch now but I will eventually add these https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-Wireless-Single-Pole-PD-FSQN-WH-Assistant/dp/B07N1GXM38/ref=sr_1_4?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIs4WZ5Lqr5AIVTvDACh2F6QFYEAAYAiAAEgKmt_D_BwE&hvadid=338638128383&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=9022848&hvnetw=g&hvpos=1t2&hvqmt=b&hvrand=2184929728076076276&hvtargid=kwd-584282680984&hydadcr=6949_9591722&keywords=lutron+caseta+fan+speed+control&qid=1567197826&s=gateway&sr=8-4

so that I can adjust speed on fan as well as control them with our iphones and have them turn off automatically in the mornings.

You mentioned he's going to stack the switch, so something like this? https://www.build.com/fanimation-wc2/s1631826?uid=3871881&source=gg-gba-pla_with_promotion_3871881!c1710655136!a69464684849!dc!ng&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI9KXIo7ur5AIVwcDACh3b6AiAEAQYASABEgIdpfD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

I don't know if you're paying too much, depends what the cost of living is where you are. You could get another estimate and compare but don't always go with the cheaper guy because it's cheaper.

I did for my cfl set up, I got the one recommended on growweedeasy: this one

Now that we upgraded our system it looks like it can't handle the power. It has no power turning it off at the right time but it doesn't turn it back on. And no the timer isn't broken, we tested it on the cfl lights and it works, so I'm assuming the current from the ballast is too strong?

After some googling, it appears that they aren't for ballasts and that it could be a fire hazard. I tried searching for a strong digital one but it seems like they all say "not suitable for ballast" so hoping to find someone in the community that uses one that works for them.

I google'd and Amazon'ed before coming here, I promise ; )

If you want to use SmartThings AND just want to turn lights on/off with motion, I don't see a need for wired sensors.

If you really want wired sensors (because of battery/network concerns), I doubt SmartThings would be the best choice for your platform. You'd need an extra device that would receive then sensor communication and then it would need to relay that to SmartThings. I don't think there's much "off the shelf" options for this, except maybe ADT. I'm sure there's some custom options you could build with a PI or other board but then you get into major customization/time/effort. But, some others on the sub may know of some more options.

You may want to check out some more "professional" HA platforms besides SmartThings.

edit: This GE zwave sensor will accept wired USB power.

If the bulbs are in light fixtures you can use smart wall switches like this: https://www.amazon.com/Leviton-DW6HD-1BZ-Incandescent-Required-Assistant/dp/B01NASBN1V/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?keywords=leviton+decora+smart+wifi&qid=1550146868&s=gateway&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1 If they are in lamps you can use a smart plug like this: https://www.amazon.com/Leviton-DW6HD-1BZ-Incandescent-Required-Assistant/dp/B07H3JVZJZ/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?keywords=leviton%2Bdecora%2Bsmart%2Bwifi&qid=1550146868&s=gateway&sr=8-1-spons&th=1

There are cheaper options as well.

1. You don't mount fans to light boxes. You mount them to fan braces like this. They are SUPER easy to install.
   
   
2. When you do this, install a wireless remote control or a basic wall switch with remote (I use these) or a crazy voice-activated one like this. You have to do this BEFORE you mount the fan to the ceiling.

Never heard of the device, but I can speak from personal experience with light as an alarm/ waking up naturally with light: it works for me. I started with one of these wake up lights and because I liked it (and my apartment had very little natural light) I decided to buy an additional full spectrum bulb and put it on an electronic timer, like this It turns on at 7 am and shuts off at 6 pm. As a result, I developed a rhythm for waking up that didn't require a noise-making alarm. Additionally, it's much easier for me to get out of bed in a "sunny" room. Light wakes you up, or at least it does for me.

A few thoughts:

• Pick up a timer for your light. It'll give the tank a regular light cycle every day of the week without you having to do anything for <$10 (probably cheaper at a local store than Amazon).
  
• A lot of algae means there's a lot of nutrients in the tank your plants are unable to use. In the case of the dwarf baby tears, they probably need more CO2 than is available in the water column; if they don't have enough CO2, it doesn't matter how many other ferts you dose -- CO2 will be a bottleneck for its photosynthesis and it's going to struggle; meanwhile then the algae will happily use those extra ferts. Keeping up your Flourish Excel would help this situation if you didn't want to go all out and inject carbon. IIRC the correct dose for Excel for your size tank would be about 1ml every day. Flourish should only be dosed once or twice a week; I can't speak to Iron. Simply take whatever the recommended dose on the label is and divide it to match your tank. Example: if label says 5 ml per 50 gals; that's 1 ml per 10 gals, or 0.5 ml for 5 gals. I use graduated eyedroppers to dose my nano tanks.
  
• I think your substrate looks fine for plants (because you're not trying to plant in the sand). If it's not a fertilized substrate, consider getting some root tabs like /u/thefishnoob suggested.
  
• The dwarf baby tears also probably needs more light -- consider getting a higher-output fixture, or add a second of the one you already have. (But wait until after you knock down your algae.)
  
• Another tactic when it comes to knocking down algae can be reducing your photoperiod -- again something a timer can come in handy for.

They're not that expensive. I use this one and it's only like $6. Mine looses time after a bit - I think it speeds up around 5 minutes a month but it's still working good and I've had it running 24/7 since last May.

Grant it, I don't use it for the phones - I have it set to a light for my leopard gecko. There's this more expensive one that you can set multiple times a day. I have one that looks like it but is much older but I can't seem to find it.

>Do you struggle to wake up? Find yourself hitting snooze for hours on end? Sure, you could try one of those light-up alarms that simulates the sunrize, but those things cost anywhere from $50 to $200+. Here's my $5 solutions.
>
>Buy one of those plug timers (like this one on Amazon), and plug in a lamp. Set it to turn on about 10 minutes before your alarm every day, and set to turn off around sunrise. Now, never change it. It will blow your mind how easy waking up becomes.
>During the week, I get up at 5am. I'm also leaving this setup on durring the weekend when I sleep in. That way, my body is naturally starting to wake up on its own even when I don't have to. On Saturdays, I just sleep with the lamp on and feel like I'm sleeping through the morning. When I actually get out of bed, its only like 8am!
>
>If you couldn't tell, I'm way too proud of this discovery.
>
>edit: Fixed link to Amazon: http://www.amazon.com/401A-Mechanical-Multiple-Lighting-Polarized/dp/B00435FRXS/
>
>edit 2: To clarify, the lamp isn't supposed to wake you up on its own. You should still have an alarm set. For me, the lamp pulls me from a deep sleep into a light sleep (no pun intended), so the snooze button is no longer appealing. Makes waking up suck less. ☺ In time, I hope to wake up every morning at the same time, lamp or no lamp, without the alarm.

Probably the best $40 home improvement I've made so far! I have a Lutron Maestro LED Dimmer switch with motion sensor on my kitchen lights. It senses when I enter my main doors so if my hands are full of groceries the lights come on automatically. I frequently enter and exit my kitchen area and it feels great to not have to walk to where the switch is located every time. YMMV. You can program the dimmer level, sensitivity, and timer settings depending on the room. It always works like a normal switch so no loss in functionality. It's 100% reliable even my dog trips the sensor. I've had a great experience with the 1 Lutron I have. I just picked up a Lutron Smart Lighting kit but I have a feeling the dumb occupancy sensor is going to end up better overall at 1/2 the cost.

I’ve been very happy with TPLink switches like this one


TP-LINK (HS220) Kasa Smart Dimmer WiFi Light Switch, Neutral Wire, Works w/Alexa & Google https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079775ZZQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_08pSDbP8TW630

For a dimmer switch to work the LED fixture needs to be dimmable, you can’t just use it on a fixture that isn’t designed to be dimmable. Many LED fixtures and bulbs being sold now are dimmable, so you may be lucky and they work for you.

Ok so here is the breakdown of what I am doing and a couple more photos of the UI and videos of it in action.

Here is the configuration.yaml and ui-lovelace.yaml files on Github.

The main components that are currently being used on the front end are:

• TP-Link/Kasa WiFi switches/outlets
  
  • HS100, HS105, HS200, HS210, HS220
    
• TP-Link/Kasa WiFi bulbs
  
  • LB130, LB200, LB230
    
• Ecobee 4 with 4 remote sensors
  
• August Lock and Connect
  
• Automatic
  
• Harmony Hub
  
• Foscam cameras
  
  • C1, R2e, FI9928P, FI9900PR
    
• Abode security system
  
• Darksky forecast
  
• Speedtest
  
  I intend for the UI to be displayed on a few Fire HD8 tablets. One that will be centrally located on the main floor of the house. Two others will be used as nightstand clocks in the master bedroom.
  
  At a high level, all I have done is drawn the floor plan and layouts in Sketch and exported individual assets as pngs and position them within a picture-elements card mostly utilizing image and its state_image. I would basically just plop down the button or icon or whatever with style: "top":50% "left":50%. Once the asset was in the UI I would inspect it via Chrome's dev tools inspector and select the parent container that the style was being set on. I would then manually adjust the top and left percentages until I was satisfied. I would then update ui-lovelace.yaml to include the new values and double check them in the browser.
  
  For the buttons, currently the button background and button text are baked into the image but I intend to change that soon. Basically the indicator light is actually the same size as the whole button its just 95% of it is transparent.
  
  Here are some screen caps (since i just posted photos from my phone last night)
  
  Here are a couple videos of it in action:
  
  
• Flipping a couple switches
  
• Switching between tabs
  
  Thats all I can think of for now to answer the basics... I am more than happy to go deeper into anything anyone has any questions about

The only thing I don't like about this is the smart switch. I'd love if they could fade off and on. Any ideas for a smart controller/smart dimmer? Maybe there's a smart outlet that has dimming capabilities.

Edit: Found one

I use leviton all over. In single pole and 3/4 way applications. They don't require a hub either, which is nice. BTW, Both the regular and the dimmer have "Remote" switches that are needed for the 3 way applications.


I love these things.

Leviton DW15S-1BZ Decora Smart Wi-Fi 15A LED/Incandescent Switch, No Hub Required, Neutral Wire Required, Works with Amazon Alexa and Google Assistant https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MU9SH77?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf


Leviton DW6HD-1BZ Decora Smart Wi-Fi 600W Incandescent/300W LED Dimmer, No Hub Required, Neutral Wire Required, Works with Amazon Alexa and Google Assistant https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01NASBN1V?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

Sure! It's pretty basic, actually. The table is a 4x2' stainless steel table from IKEA. Pretty cheap, but you could do cheaper, I just already had it. The heating pad is the same size (happy coincidence.) The cups are regular solo cups, most expensive element was the lights. You'll also want a timer, I use this one. And finally, the most ghetto part of the whole set up, the tent! I made it out of cardboard, tin foil and duct tape. Gotta save that paper.

Consider doing some homework first, e.g. take a look at Home Security Projects for Raspberry Pi. That will give you some basic ideas and some direction that you may want to explore. Remember, the Raspberry Pi is more of a general purpose single board computer and needs sensors and coding to get it where you want it. I would strongly suggest you look at some websites dealing with Python coding on the RPi. Don't be afraid to explore. What you are looking at doing has been done by many people over the years, just in different ways. An example sensor (for the door kicking) would be to mount a magnetic reed switch and sense the opening or closing of the door using the GPIO pins on the RPi. Good Luck!

So to add to my previous comment, im not sure about commercially, but if you latch this onto the gate where it swings out it will keep it in place with a little handy work and depending on the gate style.

https://www.amazon.com/27-5A-Spring-Plunger-Solenoid-Electromagnet/dp/B00S4U3WWQ

Combine this with a Zwave plug or a timer to power it on when you want the gate to become free. You could angle the gate or spring load it from the opposite side to free open.

https://www.amazon.com/General-Mechanical-Multiple-Lighting-Polarized/dp/B00435FRXS/ref=sr_1_4?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1479876032&sr=1-4&keywords=timer+plug

https://www.amazon.com/GE-Lighting-Control-Receptacle-Wireless/dp/B0013V1SRY/ref=sr_1_cc_1?s=aps&ie=UTF8&qid=1479876060&sr=1-1-catcorr&keywords=GE+zwave+outlet

^ This - just setup an aeotec zwave dry contact sensor ( https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0155HSUUY ) connected to a magnetic reed switch ( https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0009SUF08 ). Had to drill a small hole for wiring in the bottom of my metal mailbox and mounted the sensor outside the box (for reception) - put the sensor directly underneath the box and it seems to be well hidden and protected from the elements with excellent long distance range.

The setup has been a game changer for me - i get an immediate smartthings alert the second the box is opened. I startled my neighbor the other day when he put mis-delivered mail in my box and i was outside 10 seconds later to greet him.

GE's toggle-style switches (12727, switch; 12728, add-on switch; 12729, dimmer) will fit into an existing toggle setup, but they don't stay up and down like a regular toggle switch does. They're always pointing straight out in the middle and you press them up or down to turn the light on and off (or hold the dimmer up or down to brighten and dim, respectively). They return to their center position as soon as you let go.

I like the decora series a little better (12722, switch; 12723, add-on switch; 12724, dimmer). They have a little LED on them that indicates the current status of the light. The toggle-style switches don't have any indication of whether they're on or off, which is kind of a bummer for outside lights.

One thing to be aware of for the add-on switches: they require a traveler wire, but can only be paired with GE primary switches. The traveler doesn't carry full line voltage; it's just used for the add-on switch to signal the primary when the add-on's been pressed.

Sounds like you need a smart dimmer plug

If you don’t have a hub you can use a WiFi one like this: https://www.amazon.com/Leviton-DW3HL-1BW-Decora-Required-Assistant/dp/B01N106YN7

Otherwise I would recommend a zwave one, I use the one from GE and it works well.

Hi, I know its not exactly what you are asking, but I just picked up two of the ge z-wave motion sensors for $12 (all the ge z-wave stuff was marked down) at walmart a few weeks ago. They are battery operated and work really well. I saw some complaints about battery life, but I've had them for a few weeks and its still showing 100%, I think just RTFM and set good rules and then they are good devices. I have one on my front porch which turns the house on reliably and one inside to activate dimmed lights inside at night. They work really well- my cats don't set them off, but humans always do.

Here is the model: https://www.amazon.com/GE-Wireless-Activation-Monitoring-34193/dp/B01KQDIU52/

I don't know the Wink system, but I use Smartthings which is similar. You should be able to pick up a compatible z-wave/zigbee plug, or outlet and a zwave/zigbee button and set up your hub to trigger the outlets when the button is pushed. I use a Samsung motion detector in my kitchen to trigger the lights on/off automatically and it works pretty well. I haven't used the Sylvania stuff, but it looks like it should do the job.

https://www.amazon.com/Sylvania-Smart-Home-72922-LIGHTIFY/dp/B01M6UM8QD

https://www.amazon.com/SYLVANIA-General-Lighting-E21266-Lightify/dp/B01LXPGXQ1/

https://www.amazon.com/Sylvania-Smart-Home-74099-Functions/dp/B01M3OK6J7

Ok. Maybe smarter to make the switch smart rather than the light bulbs. Do you have a separate switch on the wall that turns the light on/off today? Or is it one switch for both fan and light? I'll assume you do have a separate switch:

TP-Link dimmer if you don't have a controller.
GE Dimmer if you do.

If you don't have a separate switch, I have a different idea.

Awesome. Really appreciate you taking the time to help me.

I'm assuming this guy, labeled "add-on" will work?

For the smart bulbs and wireless remote, any good solutions that dont look off. Only one I have seen is the Philips Hue solution:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B016AEHU70/ref=twister_B01N6EHCL4?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

I am not in love with how these look attached to the wall.

I did see somewhere someone used a lutron remote to connect to the philips bulbs and then used a wall bracket that looked really good. Only issue, they no longer make those lutron remotes that work like this.

You seem to be doing it backwards. The dimmer on the wall should control the light. Heres a link to a great dimmer for that purpose.
Dimmer

The fan should be controlled by the 3 speed pull chain. You have three wires going to your fan. White is neutral, black is for the fan, blue is for the light.

Yeah, your thinking of it wrong. Just get a switch like a Kasa dimmer wall switch. That will give you voice control for on/off and dimmer to different percentage amounts. I use both, but in diff places in the house. They aren’t the cheapest, but sure works great when your wife wants the two dinning room chandeliers each with 8 candle bulbs to be able to dim.

On sale for $34.99 now.
https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-HS220-Dimmer-Switch-1-Pack/dp/B079775ZZQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=kasa+dimmer+switch&qid=1568226846&s=gateway&sprefix=kasa+dimmer+&sr=8-3

But Diva and Maestro are both Decora, right? Both models look so similar to me, I don't even really see an aesthetics difference!

We're redoing all of our wall switches -- many to Caseta dimmers, so I just want whichever matches best with that (and is cheaper).

It's so weird how the pricing is on Amazon. For example:

• Diva with wallplate is $23.
  
• Diva without wallplate is $28.
  
• Diva 3-pack is $60.
  
• Maestro is $24.
  
  So at the cheapest price points: Diva for $20 (in the 3-pack) vs Maestro for $24. Since I won't need to add on remotes or anything in the future, sounds like Diva is the way to go.

I went through the following tutorial recently and got my after market pedal working on RB4.

http://www.instructables.com/id/DIY-Custom-Rock-Band-Pedal-just-like-the-Destroye/

I bought the following magnetic switch and it works great.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0009SUF08/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


Depending on how you run the wire, you can use normally closed or normally open. There were instructions for each setup on various sites, so I went with one that can do either to make sure I was set.

All you have to do is buy a mono plug cable (as opposed to stereo), strip it, hook it up to the magnetic switch, glue one side of the switch to the pedal, the other side to a point on the pedal where the sides are close to touching when the pedal is pressed, and you're good to go.

I just got this dimming plug today for my newborn’s nursery because the lamp is too bright. Works great by app or voice command. They have a in-wall switch too.


Leviton DW3HL-1BW Decora Smart... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N106YN7?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

This is the wall switch. I’m getting this for the overhead fan light switch:


Lutron Diva C.L Dimmer Switch for Dimmable LED, Halogen and Incandescent Bulbs, with Wallplate, Single-Pole or 3-Way, DVWCL-153PH-WH, White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004C2WTLU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_DIB4DbFVQ76DF

I have built some larger modules for lighting the interior of a hydroponic setup (1200 sq ft of lit area). It was quite an undertaking even though I'm apt at electronics.

For smaller setups such as yours I'd recommend combining several different wavelengths of these LED ribbons and control the light cycle with a timer such as this. It won't really matter which timer you choose, although i prefer the simpler mechanical ones with pins as they are simpler to program and adjust than some of digital ones, which can be a headache. You'll have to do a lot of window shopping to find the LED ribbons that offer the right balance of colors for what you want to grow.

Have you given any consideration to the PAR spectrum your aiming to provide? If your not trying to grow top shelf medical marijuana, I'll be honest its not worth getting to crazy about. A simple formula I've used to make LEDs for some of my house plants was to split up the total LED count into 1/5's, with 2/5's being red, 1/5 being blue, 1/5 warm white, and 1/5 (hyper)violet. Violet is highly overlooked and especially important in making things taste good, ultraviolet light is better at this but harder to find in general purpose lighting so I left it out of this.


Any more questions you have I'd be happy to answer. Shoot me a PM anytime

These are great, simple systems. You can order additional bulbs and pair them to a single switch (up to 10 bulbs).

We have plaster walls in our living room and wanted dimmable lights without having to pull new wires. Works great.

https://www.amazon.com/Philips-455386-Hue-Wireless-Dimming/dp/B016AEHU70/

I have three of these GE sensors and can vouch for the detection range. Haven't had issues with false positives. I heard battery can be an issue, but I plug these into a micro-USB charger and they work just fine. I use them with Home Assistant, which technically works requires a little more setup in reading values (it's not a simple on/off state).

Amazon link for reference: https://www.amazon.com/GE-Wireless-Activation-Monitoring-34193/dp/B01KQDIU52

You can sometimes find deals on eBay for $25 during the 20% off coupon periods. I try not to pay more than $28 for these.

Lutron makes some of the best dimmers out there. Can't hurt to try a current spec Maestro 153 digital dimmer made for LEDs. I've put about 10 of these in recently and they've worked with cheapie Commerical Electric LEDs from home depot (NEVER EVER BUY THOSE LEDS, BTW), Lithonia, GE, etc.

https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-MACL-153M-WH-Maestro-150-Watt-Multi-Location/dp/B008X3CHM0/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1466452719&sr=1-1&keywords=maestro+153


If those bulbs don't work with that dimmer, they are pretty crappy as Lutron is pretty much where it's at for non-home automation switchgear. Home Depot will take back an open dimmer if you don't like it, so it's pretty low risk.

Also, if you get the Maestro, it has all kinds of programming ability that is not talked about in the basic installation guide in the package. You can set max brightness, min brightness (useful if the LEDs blink at low power), fade on time, fade off time, etc.

http://www.lutron.com/TechnicalDocumentLibrary/048459.pdf

I've been very happy with the zwave plus GE motion sensors: https://smile.amazon.com/GE-Wireless-Activation-Monitoring-34193/dp/B01KQDIU52

Love that the can be USB powered or battery. And are configurable for reset time and sensitivity.

My crock is the simple Off-High-low manual switch type, but I use a simple lamp timer to have it start while I'm gone or asleep.

Please have common sense about food safety if you do this- ie don't leave chicken in the crock at room temperature for 6 hours. However, putting refrigerated ingredients in at 8am and having it come on at 10 or 11 is fine.

This is the style timer I have:
https://www.amazon.com/Intermatic-TN111K-15-Amp-Appliance-Timer/dp/B00LBHBLEU?ref_=fsclp_pl_dp_3

I use these: http://amzn.com/B005WQIDHY

They allow two on/off periods per day and work great for me. There is an easy override too.

I may have misdirected you on the relay part... what I meant was an actual relay Vs the Wink Relay.
https://smile.amazon.com/Enerwave-ZWN-RSM2-Z-Wave-Convert-Enabled/dp/B00JWVNH4Y/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1468877628&sr=8-2&keywords=zwave+relay

I can control two existing dumb switches with one device. So in my case I have the outside porch lights and porch outlets in the ceiling (for holiday lighting) controlled by the one relay. Saves space and money.

As for the Wink Relay, I could see how it would help, I just don't have the right setup for it. Most of my boxes where it would make sense are 3 gang or more.

I have a couple switches depending on the config.

for the foyer chandelier, the switches are still toggle and it is a three way switch. So I used the GE Zwave with add-on switch to help it blend in a bit.

Dimmer switch - https://smile.amazon.com/GE-12729-Wireless-Lighting-Control/dp/B00PYMGS3C/ref=pd_sim_60_2?ie=UTF8&dpID=51mGs2T1eYL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL320_SR164%2C320_&psc=1&refRID=GB18YZVF9J9DR1F95J6W

Add-on switch - https://smile.amazon.com/GE-12728-Wireless-Bluetooth-Connected/dp/B00PYMGYY0/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1468877971

For the single pole switches I used the Leviton Zwave switches

Dimmer - https://smile.amazon.com/Leviton-DZMX1-1BZ-Controls-Capable-Universal/dp/B01GONGX3O/ref=sr_1_4?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1468878067

Regular Switch - https://smile.amazon.com/Leviton-DZS15-1LZ-Decora-Controls-Capable/dp/B00LEWQYHG/ref=pd_sim_sbs_60_3?ie=UTF8&dpID=31bJcKzR1ML&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&psc=1&refRID=3RGMQDRFX87WN0GFGVB5

There are cheaper alternatives out there, I just used these cause I had gift cards and were located locally so I could return them if there was an issue.

Edit: spelling and words

I personally be like the failsafe a physical switch provides. I've had those controls go haywire, or get damaged, or lost.

Plus I like having the option to control this or a future fan with something like this

Lutron Caseta Wireless Smart Fan Speed Control, Single-Pole, PD-FSQN-WH, White, Works with Alexa, Apple HomeKit, and the Google Assistant https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07N1GXM38/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_taa_aWYzDbFFE4NYG

Plug for anywhere you sleep. After a power outage, bulbs will come back on full strength (they think you just flipped the wall switch on). I have 2 of these and love them. In my kitchen I have just bulbs though.

Yes, it helps. You could just as well plug something like this into an outlet. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JFF4RG4/ref=pd_lpo_60_lp_t_4?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=785TVZQTG3NA6RMN08QY

And then plug a dumb power strip into the outlet, and all of your lights into the power strip. On/off/dim would be conrolled by the smart outlet and feed to everything else. Note however, the limitations on wattage, 100w for CFL/LED 300w for incandescents. If you have 6 60w incandescent bulbs, it won't work.

Thats what I'm trying to get away from, more hubs. Half wish I went with a more expansive system like Insteon.

Reading the reviews on Amazon, sounds like only the older model works directly with the Hue hub, is that what you have?

I run a super budget setup as close to professional lighting as I can. Well it's budget in comparison to pro set ups.

I start with one of these.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B014H2P89O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_wSnezbPMKMHMZ

It's dimmable so I can adust the brightness for any time of day and turn it off without messing around with switches.

I plug that into this.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HX2EVPS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_TVnezbVVQ3QQB

Well in reality I have a small desk lamp with a clip on it. It attaches to my monitor stand. But we'll get what ever lamp work for you.

Then I bought this soft box. Modified it slightly (just cut it open a little)

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ENSKUUK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_eYnezbNZ9D1XR

Then bam. Simple and adjustable set up for my setup. I can make the light as bright or dull as required by the remaining room lighting.

Go for a larger softbox if you have room. I don't as I have all my monitors on a 2x2 stand!

(Not referral links)

The Diva C.L can dim anything.. you're fine.

I hope you enjoy your lighting.

If you want digital dimming:

https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-Incandescent-Single-Pole-Multi-Location-MACL-153M-WH/dp/B008X3CHM0

SYLVANIA SMART+ ZigBee Indoor Smart Plug.

I was able to add them to my system through the native Hue app, using the 6-character serial number printed on the switch, and they work perfectly.

Desk lamps are great for small tanks. Get a cheap plug-in timer and you won't even have to turn it off and on. ☺

I use my Hue bulbs almost exclusively in the numerous lamps we have around our house. I got so tired of having to walk around to each lamp to switch it on (first world problem). Now, I just have one of the Hue dimmer switches in each room which turn on all lamp lights for that room.

Yes, you have to leave the lamp's switch in the on position, and yes, it can get annoying when guests visit and don't know to use the Hue switch. The light acts like a normal bulb in that it'll go on a off with the lamp's switch, but Hue dimmer switch will only work when lamp's switch is in the "on" position.

I've enjoyed it a lot, especially since the Hue dimmer switches are magnetized to their mounting plate and can be used remotely, say from bed or the couch.

You can get a smart switch to go with your smart plug. Maybe something like this....


https://www.amazon.com/Leviton-DW6HD-1BZ-Incandescent-Required-Assistant/dp/B01NASBN1V

Try TP-Link. About $ 28 as well but very good and compatible with just about everything. Of course the dimmer is a bit more expensive.

​

Switch: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01EZV35QU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

Dimmer: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B079775ZZQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

The user guide and other PDFs are in the description.

​

I've had 3 regular switches and 1 dimmer installed for about 2 months now.

Do you use SmartThings? I ran into the same scenario with as you with the freezer/garage GFCI. I run this automation to ping a zigbee outlet to make sure it is running.

Sylvania Smart Home 72922 Sylvania LIGHTIFY Smart Plug, 1 Pack, White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M6UM8QD/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_1me5CbY46XR1S

https://community.smartthings.com/t/release-device-monitor-get-notified-if-devices-stop-reporting/41141

First I just had lamps on something like this: http://www.amazon.com/Woods-50007-24-Hour-Digital-Settings/dp/B005WQIDHY/ you probably can find something like this much cheaper.

I ended up installing a switch like this: http://www.amazon.com/Honeywell-Econoswitch-RPLS740B-Programmable-Switch/dp/B004AP92N2/

This Zigbee switch should be compatible with the Hue bridge, but I can’t personally vouch for that as I don’t own any of these.

Here’s a helpful Amazon review for it, “After experimenting with adding this plug to my Philips Hue system, I finally figured out how to add it without any trouble. I held down the power button while inserting the plug into a wall socket. I kept the button held down for about 6 seconds and then heard a ‘click’ sound. I was then able to find the light with the iConnectHue app’s ‘Search’ feature. It could probably also be found this way with the Philips app, but I didn’t try that.”

I don't sell anything yet. My profession is software-development, and I'm not very good at sales, so I'd probably spend more effort on trying to sell, versus what I could get otherwise.

If I had more land, and a green-house, I might be able to scale it to the point it would be worthwhile selling.

> I'm just eager checking the plants twice a day to turn the lights on and off etc.

Get a timer, turning lights on and off manually is not sustainable. I have 2 of these and they work quite well, and are inexpensive. That said, if you're only growing basil, darkness is not really needed, unless you're trying to conserve energy.

It sounds like you want a timer not a thermostat

Intermatic FD60MWC 60-Minute Spring-Wound In-Wall Countdown Timer Switch for Auto-Off control of Fans and Lights, White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00002NAPD/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_5r-kDbWPVAFP5

Can have one for cooling and one for heat, would just take a bit of wiring

If you want a smart one you could use some zigbee relays and IFTTT to make it do what you want.

Because the nest thermostat is not going to do what you want

For dumb switches the Lutron Maestro are the best I've tried.

​

For smart switches I use the GE Dimmer, though that's the only brand/model I've bought so I can't compare to alternates. But mine works quite well and if you have SmartThings it offers some customization.

The switch is a standard light switch. With HA switches you have to make sure they are fan compatible, but many are. This one is the one I used for 75% of my switches, whether light or fan.

The switch itself needs to support Google Home in it's firmware. The Leviton Homekit version of the switch does not appear to support Google Home. The regular version of the switch looks like it does: https://www.amazon.com/Leviton-DW6HD-1BZ-Incandescent-Required-Assistant/dp/B01NASBN1V/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1517444728&sr=8-3&keywords=leviton+switch+google+home

So, you may need to find another Homekit switch that supports Google Home.

7-day Digital Program Timer

I think you're looking for too complicated a solution for something that is easily (and cheaply) performed. I get it, but...Just seems like a lot.

It turns your lamp (or any electronic device) on/off based on the time of day.

http://www.amazon.com/15076-24-Hour-Plug-In-Mechanical-Timer/dp/B002HEY300/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1418253308&sr=8-3&keywords=lamp+timer

It's a pretty clever device.

Get a HydroFarm Timer next time around ;) Love mine and only a couple bucks more than a decent analog

i'd check craigslist first. you can get some really good deals there.
having a timer is a nice feature but it can be easily replicated by adding a plug timer. I couldn't find exactly what i was looking for but this gives you an idea: http://www.amazon.com/401A-Mechanical-Multiple-Lighting-Polarized/dp/B00435FRXS/ref=sr_1_4?s=lamps-light&ie=UTF8&qid=1409237089&sr=1-4&keywords=light+timer

So I had several closets that were very dark and hard to see in. None had outlets and I didn't feel like getting anything wired in. So I made these lights using AA batteries. You can find everything on Amazon. Perfect for apartments too! One closet comes in at around $30, less if you don't get nice rechargeable batteries like I did.

Switch
Lights
Case

You need one that is "Normally closed" or "N.C."
This one has both "Normally closed" and "Normally open" and will work
https://www.amazon.com/Directed-Electronics-8601-Magnetic-Switch/dp/B0009SUF08/
.
I really like this line -- Ships from and sold by Amazon.com.
.
There is also this type that uses a button that is pressed when the door is closed.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008YDT2MC/ref=psdc_13397451_t1_B00M0YP1PS
From the picture, you can see "COM", "NC", and "NO"
COM and NC are electrically connected when the button is NOT pushed, but
COM and NO are electrically connected when the button is pushed (<-not important to your design)
.
Btw, something to consider before you go too far. Plan ahead and verify things will work.
There is an old saying "measure twice, cut once". In woordworking I learned a term "dry-fit",
which means to fit all the pieces together without glue or nails to make sure things will fit properly.

Unfortunately there is no all in one switch to control the fan and light at the same time but lutron makes a smart fan speed switch below

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07N1GXM38/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_v3VCDbBDH99Y1

A hub setup sounds like overkill for a dorm room... I would consider returning what you have now, and instead getting one of these kits. I'm pretty sure you can add a few other bulbs to it later too - no hub required - bulbs just sync to the dimmer switch.
https://www.amazon.com/Philips-455394-Wireless-Dimmer-Generation/dp/B014H2P89O/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1483494943&sr=8-1&keywords=hue+dimmer+kit

Air out that thing.

Open all Windows and doors at least once a day for 20+ minutes to reduce the humidity.

Get a induction cooktop, instead of the Gas burner - burning with Gas produces a huge amount of water vapor.

Leave the cabinets cracked open.

Every time you use the bathroom - use the fan

- get a fan timer: https://www.amazon.com/Intermatic-FD60MWC-60-Minute-Spring-Wound-Countdown/dp/B00002NAPD

So anytime you use the bathroom - put it on 10-15 minutes.

Just DIY the PID ones. Those turn on immediately once it's powered on. Then all you have to do is connect it to something like this:

http://www.amazon.com/15076-24-Hour-Plug-In-Mechanical-Timer/dp/B002HEY300/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1394517371&sr=8-7

Although if you were looking to reduce the cooking time for meals after work, just cook all your portions before hand and refrigerate/freeze it if it's longer term. Then when you get home, throw one of the pre-cooked meals into the water bath. Should only take 20 min or so to reheat back up to temp since it's already cooked.

Here is the timer I just bought for my 20g long. it works very well. However, it does buzz from time to time, but over all I'm veryhappy considering the price I paid. :)

http://www.amazon.com/401A-Mechanical-Multiple-Lighting-Polarized/dp/B00435FRXS/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1415111796&sr=8-4&keywords=light+timer

So I dug a little deeper and it looks like I need to combine this dimmer: https://www.amazon.com/Enerwave-ZW500D-W-Wireless-NEUTRAL-REQUIRED/dp/B01G7MFQ08/ref=sr_1_7?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1486947973&sr=1-7&keywords=zwave+3+way+dimmer

with this add-on switch: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00PYMGYY0/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

to accomplish matching what's there now.

If you can find a compatible hue bulb, you could get one of these and that would probably be your cheapest route. It can control up to 10 hue lights without a bridge, depending on what kind of fixture you have and how many individual bulbs would be used.

you could even wire nut the two wires that currently go to the switch to make the outlet and the light always on and then put a blank wall plate over the gang box and use the adhesive on the back of the hue switch over that. That way it would look very clean and still be able to be used like you would normally be used to using the switch.

You can buy a timer you plug into the wall, that you then plug your lamp into, making the light come on and go off whenever you want even if you're not there. There are a lot, but here's a pretty basic one: https://www.amazon.com/15076-24-Hour-Plug-Mechanical-Timer/dp/B002HEY300/

Ok, I'll tell you what you can do to get a few oz's of shroomy delight for yourself for a measly ~$150.

This is going to be my take on growing, or in other words - pofs' tek. Yea...I like the sound of that. Except it's not going to be very detailed.

Pofs' Tek - A guide for the partially lazy

So, basically, I cut out a few steps - that of making your own substrate and and sterilizing it and prepping a bunch of jars and grain spawn. I use Out-Grow's bulk supplies package which consists of 4 quart jars of sterilized rye grain, and 4 lbs of compost (manure-based substrate) and it costs $35 + shipping which was $15 for me for a total of $50

Then I used a 13.5qt clear bin I bought from amazon made by Iris, which cost $5/ea + $4 shipping (which is a steal in bulk, but you'll only need 1 for this guide) which will cost $9, or $59 total

I did this inside so I used a Timer($7), a Lamp Cord ($9), and a 6500k cfl ($8) for a total of $24 on this part (which can be replaced by sunlight if you have a room with natural lighting) and a total of $83

I used spores from lilshopofspores.com - b+ to be specific. I've switched to thehawkeye.com's spores since, because they are cheaper and come with a lot more spores inside the syringe. You'll run around $15-$30 for spores no matter where you get em and bring the total to $113 assuming $30 for syringe and shipping.

I also bought Polyfill ($7) for a total of $120 bare minimum start price.

And now you have all of the essentials.

I'll write the growing process later.

You can not use a dimmer switch with a smart bulb. Smart bulbs require unattenuated, unmodified line power to function.

Hue sells a proprietary "dimmer" kit that sends commands to the bulb to dim.

May I suggest the GE Portable Motion Sensor?

On sale for $28 right now on Amazon, runs off battery and USB power which helps if it is in a high-traffic area. I have one and use it for my kitchen when I arrive home to flip a few lights on as well. It is fairly quick and SmartThings has it integrated into their hub.

It’s also possible to do with a zigbee plug such as

Sylvania Smart Home 72922 Sylvania LIGHTIFY Smart Plug, 1 Pack, White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M6UM8QD/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_mFh9BbDQ3RJ4N

It shows up as a light on the Philips hue bridge.

For pump control first check the draw on the pump. Then start looking for plug in timers that can handle the load. Pump looks pretty small so just about anything will likely work. (better safe!)

If you go cheap, you can probably get a 30 min increment timer like this.

My setup is outdoors so I use something like this, but you could go all out and do this.

Of course if you are techy type, look into an arduino project you can program to the second or based on flow or a float. For inspiration!

Well, I was talking to a friend and a wireless dimmer switch + light bulbs (Phillips Hue) is gonna cost $30-$40
https://www.amazon.com/Philips-455394-Wireless-Dimmer-Generation/dp/B014H2P89O/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1495478231&sr=8-1&keywords=Philips+455394+Hue+wireless

And plus an overhead might come out to $100 or so. But I'm not sure if it'll give enough lighting in the room given the length of the room. THoughts?

For bathroom fans, as much as I love tech, I use old school, because it works:
Intermatic FD60MWC 60-Minute Spring Loaded Wall Timer, White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00002NAPD/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_vN7OybPXX2KN0

I have this timer and it works great. < $6 too.

Unless you need massively heavy duty, these are great:

http://www.amazon.com/Woods-50007-24-Hour-Digital-Settings/dp/B005WQIDHY/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1457973938&sr=8-3&keywords=digital+plug+in+timer

I use them on 2 aquariums and a basking light for our snake.

I have these with LEDs and their great, you can even program them: Lutron MACL-153M-WH Maestro 150-Watt Multi-Location CFL/LED Digital Dimmer https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008X3CHM0/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_cbWkub03B9HK3

Yes. Buy a cheap plug timer like this and set it to run during the hours you want to set as "daytime" for your fish. Generally 8 hours or less is advisable to keep down on algae growth, but if you want you can go up to 12.

Smart switch is in fact the solution. I'm using this Leviton to do exactly what you described.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MZ0WVKH/ref=sr_ob_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1492107608&sr=8-1

A magnetic switch, like the kind security systems use to see if a window is open.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0009SUF08/ref=sxts_kp_bs_lp_1

One side mounts on the door, the other side mounts on the door frame and has wires running to it. When a magnet gets close to the wired one it opens/closes a contact (depends on how you wire it). So wire it to be open when there's a magnet and the circuit will close (thus the light turns on) when the door is opened and the other part moves away. The circuit opens again when the door is closed and the other part gets close. Works for both sliding and regular doors.

Two of these (one for each door) could be your sensors. I recommend you connect them to a little 2-chip electronic circuit that you've built, which

• detects when one or both doors are open
  
  
• watches to see that a door has been open for 30 consecutive seconds
  
  
• then beeps a beeper
  
  Glue the sensors to the fridge using removable glue, such as silicone caulk. Now you can resell the fridge in pristine original condition if you so desire

> an Arduino/relay/thermistor system

I guess when all you have is a hammer, everything looks like a nail.

Here's a simpler solution for $9:

http://www.amazon.com/Intermatic-TN111K-15-Amp-Appliance-Timer/dp/B00LBHBLEU/ref=sr_1_13?ie=UTF8&qid=1454108954&sr=8-13&keywords=timer

Lutron makes a fan switch, if you want to go that route. It will work with google home, but you would have to have a separate switch for the fan and light for this to work though. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07N1GXM38/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_FzE7CbSMX6SF7

I have been happy with https://www.amazon.com/Intermatic-FD60MAC-60-Minute-Spring-Loaded-Lights/dp/B00002NAPD/ - I tried an fancier electronic one that didn't work, now have two of these in two different bathrooms.

I bought mine from Home Depot down the street. It was the same price, and it was a spur-of-the-moment idea. :) EDIT: here's the link on Amazon: http://www.amazon.com/401A-Mechanical-Multiple-Lighting-Polarized/dp/B00435FRXS/

Yeah, looks like this is my only option right now...just so big and bulky :P

https://www.amazon.com/Leviton-DW15S-1BZ-Universal-Incandescent-Required/dp/B01N106YN7/?th=1

You mean like this?

GE 12728 Z-Wave Wireless Lighting Control Add-On Toggle Switch, White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PYMGYY0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_NchvxbTE9G4DR

Btw I am just showing you the GE/Jasco switches. There are other brands as well.

Hooray!

So, with a 3 gang box, you can put in anything. Wemo make a light switch and also a dimmer switch. Leviton has a few switches as well.

Keep in mind that you'll need a neutral line available for all of these switches. If you have the kind of switch where there's only a single wire and the switch sits in the middle to cut off power flow, you'll have a problem swapping in a smart switch.

I use these in a 3-way configuration but the instruction manual had configurations up to 6-way I believe.

Leviton DZ15S-1BZ Decora Smart... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MZ0WVKH?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Paired with:

Leviton DD0SR-DLZ Dual Voltage 120/277VAC Decora Digital/Decora Smart Matching Switch Remote https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01AFU1JTK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_se6jDb6S0K3JB

I bought a laser crosshair that runs off of a 5V wall-wart. It's mounted on the garage ceiling and lined up to a point on my dashboard. I combined that with a simple magnetic switch wired from the garage door so it only comes on when the door is open.

The laser lines are long enough so I can use it to guide me in.

This has allowed me to place my car within 1/4" of where I need it to be so I can open the doors and trunk without banging into something (There is literally 1/2" clearance for a couple of the doors).

Hope this helps.

It's not hubless, but I'm using this ge zwave switch https://www.amazon.com/GE-Dimmer-Z-Wave-12724-Amazon/dp/B00PYMGS3C/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1485394880&sr=1-1&keywords=ge%2Bdimmer%2Bzwave&th=1

This plus the add on switch https://www.amazon.com/GE-Dimmer-Z-Wave-12724-Amazon/dp/B00PYMGYY0/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1485394880&sr=1-1&keywords=ge%2Bdimmer%2Bzwave&th=1 works very well for me.

OKay, so for each 3-way, I'd need something like one of these:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PYMGOHM/ref=asc_df_B006LQFHN25032304/

and one of these?:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PYMGYY0/

(And the hub of course)

Can you provide a link to the product on Amazon? I don't see any Sylvania smart wall plugs in the "simple setup" list.

edit: nevermind, I see it now, I'm just blind. That should definitely work with Echo Plus.

https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B01M6UM8QD/

i'll never buy anything but these. i use them on all my tanks and they've never failed. tried the mechanical ones but they just stick and sometimes flicker annoyingly. these allow you to even set a siesta for your photoperiod (on for a while, off, then back on before going off for the day).

Well I ran into this while looking.. i present you the HS220 (not yet available)

TP-Link Smart Wi-Fi Light Switch, Dimmer, No Hub Required, Works with Amazon Alexa and Google Assistant (HS220) https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B079775ZZQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_E5zPAbNE49M44

https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-Wireless-Single-Pole-PD-FSQN-WH-Assistant/dp/B07N1GXM38/

https://www.amazon.com/MOES-Ceiling-Control-Compatible-Required/dp/B07HQ95N69/

???

don't see why it would be any different than controlling a ceiling fan.

Ah, you'd think the switch would be waterproof given it's designed location, but unless it specifies it I wouldn't put it in a wet location. You could bypass using the one supplied and put in a mag like this one https://www.amazon.com/Directed-Electronics-8601-Magnetic-Switch/dp/B0009SUF08/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1484926127&sr=8-7&keywords=pin+switch

You'd need a separate hub. The Hue hub is Zigbee only, no Z-wave. Or you could do more Hue bulbs and use Hue dimmer switches:

http://www2.meethue.com/en-us/productdetail/philips-hue-dimmer-switch
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B016AEHU70

The Hue switches are cheaper than the GE z- wave ones. But if you plan on adding other HA devices besides lights later on, you'll need a hub anyway, so you might wanna make sure that whatever hub you think you would get will still work with the Hue dimmer switches if you do that for now.

If you can lock the massager ON then it should be trivial to wire up a timer switch. Better yet get one of these and just set it for whatever time you want to get up.

Hey! Get a WiFi bulb! Like a hue and switch pair (you won't need the hub for that) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B016AEHU70

I have it on a timer, like this. I absolutely cannot wake up when it's dark. Having the light turn on 10 minutes before my alarm really helps me.

Is there a reason for not using a plain old outlet timer like [this] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005WQIDHY/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?qid=1426488604&sr=8-3&keywords=outlet+timer&pi=AC_SY200_QL40) ?

Dimmer

Dimmer Add-On

Switch

Switch Add-On

Home Depot Link

The sale at Home Depot right now is really good for them. I used camelcamelcamel and just waited for a price drop on Amazon to buy them all at once. They seem to fluctuate in price quite often.

Why are you using expensive philips hue light bulbs? An LED BR30 in Warm White would work just fine.

Why not just use something less expensive and install a single dimming light switch

I found this: GE Enbrighten Z-Wave Plus Smart Motion Sensor. It has a USB or battery.

https://www.amazon.com/GE-Wireless-Activation-Monitoring-34193/dp/B01KQDIU52

Leviton DZ15S-1BZ Decora Smart Z-Wave Plus On/Off Wall Switch https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B01MZ0WVKH/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_4fs0CbYMVYCF0

This is the exact one I purchased

Yes. Leviton Dimmer switch

Maybe the X-10/Z wave?

We also used this for our hallway lights.
http://www.amazon.com/Lutron-MSCL-OP153M-WH-Single-Pole-Multi-Location-Occupancy/dp/B00CAO4NUM/

It was a light switch we'd never turn on if walking through (leaving the hall dark), and generally the only time we'd turn it on was the middle of the night. So essentially, the light is a spot that's usually dark, but not dark enough to always require light. Because it's on a dimmer, we have it set on a low setting so in the middle of the night it isn't jarring. It eases on, and after a preset amount of time fades to half the dimness you have and a minute later off. Overall, Fantastic.

Whats the timer for? If you dont have to use it for any fancy control and it is just a bath fan or something you can use a mechanical Timer

I entered to amazon thru US VPN and its shows same things.

How didn't you found?

1. Hub + 4 bulbs for $85.
   
2. Hub + 2 bulbs ($50) and 4 bulbs ($42) = Hub + 6 bulbs for $92
   
3. Hub + 2 bulbs ($50) and Dimmer Switch + 1 bulb ($30) = Hub + 3 bulbs + Switch for $80 (this is what here costs $100)

These are the actual ones I have. They are a little wonky to set up but they work well.

Woods 50007WD Indoor 24-Hour Digital Plug-In Timer, 2 Pack, 1 Polarized Outlet https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005WQIDHY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_iD9dBb60SSZ94

Awesome.

https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-Wireless-Single-Pole-PD-FSQN-WH-Assistant/dp/B07N1GXM38

I know this is a reach, but what else would I need to make this work with HomeKit? HomeBridge? I do have an extra raspberry pi I could use.

My use case is really simple. No light, only ceiling fan. I currently use this switch:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0011E5WXE

This is what I have at my house. It is an on/off switch with a little dimmer rocker and indicator lights that do stay on when you turn the light off. The indicator lights will get very dim when the light is switched off, and are brighter when you turn the light on

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B008X3CHM0/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1466895048&sr=8-1&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=lutron+led+dimmer&dpPl=1&dpID=51aViAG9viL&ref=plSrch

I think I'd rather have a spring-loaded model like what is currently there, apparently they still sell them: http://www.amazon.com/Intermatic-FD60MWC-60-Minute-Spring-Loaded/dp/B00002NAPD/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1420672697&sr=8-5&keywords=wall+timer+switch

Mount a magnetic switch on the outside of the door. Something like this

Of course there is. It's just a standard timer. You can get it at any Target, Home Depot, etc. It will look something like this: http://www.amazon.com/Intermatic-TN111K-15-Amp-Appliance-Timer/dp/B00LBHBLEU/ref=zg_bs_495340_3

Or you can get a fancier digital one with more options.

What about something like this?
Intermatic TN111K 15-Amp Lamp and Appliance Timer https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LBHBLEU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_uHeGwb95EM0PE

I like GE switches. You could put 2 regular ones in and two of these

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PYMGYY0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_2vLAzbJ03NMYD

They act as a second switch for a 3-way wired circuit.

Cheapest that I can find these for is around $50. That seems like a lot when I compare to the hue switches. Why are they so much more?
e.g. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B016AEHU70/

something like this should do the trick

Yeah, I probably could and I was actually kinda debating between that one and the Leviton Decora switch. I was just looking to get more input before pulling the trigger.

EDIT: fixed link

Also, I highly recommend replacing your light switches with these motion detecting ones from Lutron. Turns off the lights after 5 minutes of nobody in the room, and even has a light sensor so they don’t auto-on when there is already enough light in the room. This solved all my problems with the kitchen and living room lights being on all the time.

Seems like maybe the place to ask this, anyone know how to increase the brightness of one of these? I've gone through the manual, and no matter what I do, the voltage on the output maxes at 110v. Is there no way to "bypass" the dimming?

I am an experienced cook myself and have been discouraged by slow cooker recipes in the past. For a long time, it seemed that no matter what I cooked it never turned out just right and most times (despite using different seasonings and ingredients) even smelled the same while cooking. I really think it boils down to (pun totally intended) temperature and cooking time. If the food is mush, it just means that even on a low setting it was cooked too long. I suggest getting a timer to shut it off earlier. I find 5-6 hours sufficient for many recipes that call for 7-8 hours. OR hacking your crock pot into a sous vide, capable of producing unbelievably better food. Experiment with different styles of food from well reviewed recipes as they are not created equally. Here are a few I like from a reputable source. I've recently made this lentil sweet potato stew and a pesto lasagna that turned out incredibly.

This one https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001BPOBTY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

is rated for 1725w 15a. I'm using it now and it works good but I am only using 450w not 1000w.

I have a TP-Link Smart plug that I don't use.

Shortly after I bought it, I replaced it with a SYLVANIA Smart+ plug because you can set those plugs up to show up as lights and work with the Hue apps.

I can turn everything off with Google Home without IFTTT involved at all.

Not exactly what you're looking for, but maybe it is an option for you.

Here’s the top result on Amazon

I just searched for WiFi Dimmer Plug. The listings in the search will show if it’s Alexa certified.

Go with universal switches/dimmers that work without hubs, instead of lights. I personally like the Leviton Decora. They're a little pricey @ ~$50 per switch, but if you do the project in phases it should be affordable.

I assume you could use a reed switch setup (a magnet on the gate, the switch on the fence)... the same thing you see on doors and windows in security systems. The pushbutton in your wireless remote would be replaced with wires running to the reed switch. I'm making a lot of assumptions about how that remote works, but just an idea.

Multi plug timer

Have two of those, no issues. Easy to program.

The newer ones are Z-Wave+, the older ones are just Z-Wave. I run the Leviton Decoras (Z-Wave+) for switches & dimmers. I've added a few of the new GE Fan Controllers, but those have had a rough time being detected correctly by OZCP / HASS.

They sell dimmer switches and they have a bundle deal. They also work with Amazon Alexa. Right now I'm just using my phone and like you implied it's kinda bothersome but I think I'm going to invest in some of the dimmers or an Echo Dot

No, just a few simple parts.

Tape

Power Supply

Connectors (Technically optional, you can solder the cut ends of the tape. But this is much easier.

Magnetic Switch

Dimmer (Optional)

You'll also need basic wire nuts and spare wire.

I had 3/4" thick shelves with 1 1/4" MDF trim fronstpieces. Then I cut a small 45-degree piece to fit hidden behind the front trim. The tape then goes on that 45-degree piece so it's pointing down and back. I hope that makes sense.

I use these for my planted aquariums.

Cheap and easy, and very reliable. The only time they've ever messed up is when my cat walked across it and pushed some of the pegs down.

Also they're analog so if the power ever goes out I know for how long it was out for by how far off the timers are.

You can get a gen 1 hub and then use any other gen bulbs with it.

The white starter kit comes with two white bulbs and a hub, for $70.

https://www.amazon.com/Philips-White-Starter-light-bridge/dp/B014H2OZAC


This kit comes with a switch and one bulb for $40. You wont have voice controls, but you can connect up to 10 bulbs to it and buy a hub later if you want more lights/more control.

https://www.amazon.com/Philips-455394-Wireless-Dimmer-Generation/dp/B014H2P89O

Leviton wifi plugin dimmer should meet those criteria. No relay noise as it's a dimmer, and the LED light can be turned off in the settings.

https://www.amazon.com/Leviton-DW3HL-1BW-Decora-Required-Assistant/dp/B01N106YN7/

This one is a better form factor, but has the relay noise and is not a dimmer
https://www.amazon.com/Leviton-DW3HL-1BW-Decora-Required-Assistant/dp/B07H3JVZJZ/?th=1

you can get a basic magnetic switch if you want the lights to always be on when the door opens. check this out.
https://www.amazon.com/Directed-Electronics-8601-Magnetic-Switch/dp/B0009SUF08/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1520624376&sr=8-4&keywords=magnetic+door+switch&dpID=41DVM6RPZAL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

Wire this into the power lead from the power supply, or even after the controller, on the 12v lead to the LED strip, that way controller is always powered and keeps it's settings 100%, and you rely on the door switch to complete or disconnect the circuit.

I really wouldn't recommend the pi/arduino. You are highly overengineering the problem. I would imagine one of those timer plug ins would be more than sufficient if you needed to power something to get water to the plants (or to regulate water flow). http://www.amazon.com/401A-Mechanical-Multiple-Lighting-Polarized/dp/B00435FRXS/ref=zg_bs_6291363011_9 (as a quick example)

set it to run for 15 minutes every day to turn on a pump/open a valve to allow water through and set up some drip tubing.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/DIG-Corp-Raised-Bed-Garden-Drip-Irrigation-Kit-ML50/202614215 (as another quick example)

Entire setup will take maybe an hour or two of cutting tubing and testing water flow, maybe an hour to make it look pretty and possibly some additional time (depending on needs) to refine the pump/valve.

I'd go with a magnetic reed switch and some LED strips:

• https://www.amazon.com/Directed-Electronics-8601-Magnetic-Switch/dp/B0009SUF08/ref=sr_1_2
  
• https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HSF65MC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
  I did something similar with my liquor cabinet but with a leftover LED strip from an aquarium.
  
  Out of curiosity: where in Texas are you? I'm in Austin.

I used this one in my closet, behind a bifold door.

So far so good, been working reliably.

I have lights in mine and used a magnetic switch to have them turn on automatically when the door is opened.

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0009SUF08/

Maybe this could be a shortcut for those without circuit literacy.

Amazon Link to wall timer

Things I forgot to buy were:

Syringe 10ml

extension cord


strong tape

timer


room temp monitor