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Reddit mentions of AmazonBasics 4 Port USB to USB 3.0 Hub with 5V/2.5A power adapter

Sentiment score: 32
Reddit mentions: 100

We found 100 Reddit mentions of AmazonBasics 4 Port USB to USB 3.0 Hub with 5V/2.5A power adapter. Here are the top ones.

AmazonBasics 4 Port USB to USB 3.0 Hub with 5V/2.5A power adapter
Buying options
View on Amazon.com
  • Package includes: 1 USB 3.0 4 Port Hub / 1 5V/2.5A Power Adapter / 1 built in 9 inch USB 3.0 cable / 1 Owner's Manual
  • Compatible with USB 3.0 and backwards compatible with USB 2.0
  • Support Low speed (1.5 Mbps)/ Full speed (12 Mbps)/High speed (480 Mbps)/ Super speed (5 Gbps)
  • Support auto switching between self-power and buspower mode
  • Check your device loading current when used for charging (e.g. iPads/Tablets) or for high-power devices (e.g. hard drive); insufficient current may lead to slow charging or other failure
  • Max output per port is 900MA; max output across all 4 output is 12.5W(5V/2.5A)
  • For maximum output, apply power adapter
Height0.63 Inches
Length3.57 Inches
Number of items1
Release dateNovember 2017
Weight0.359 Pounds
Width1.59 Inches

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Found 100 comments on AmazonBasics 4 Port USB to USB 3.0 Hub with 5V/2.5A power adapter:

u/onastyinc · 11 pointsr/Roku
  1. Your TV needs to support HDMI CEC, most newer TVs do.

  2. get a powered USB hub

  3. Never used it, but I think it is bluetooth based so is somewhat distance sensitive?

  4. it all depends what you have subscriptions too. Content cost money so free channels tend to be much worse than amazon/hulu/netflix etc.

u/squrr1 · 6 pointsr/wiiu

You probably want a powered USB-A hub. This will allow you to plug everything, but also charge any devices that are plugged in. Does your hard drive have external power, or does it rely on the USB for power?

Something like this.

u/Cool-Beaner · 6 pointsr/raspberry_pi

What kid of power supply do you have? I wouldn't try to overclock the Pi with less than a solid 2.1 amp supply, and I do mean solid. Many people have found that some of the cheap 2 amp supplies don't really give 2 amps. This is also going to make the Pi more stable when overclocking. Google it if you want specifics.

Rather than buy a different WiFi dongle which may or may not work with your Pi, buy a powered USB hub.

u/phoenixdigita1 · 6 pointsr/oculus

The simplest solution if you have a desktop is grab the Oculus supported card.

Supported Inatek 4 port card (1 Fresco controller) – Don't get the 5 or 7 port card as the design is not really suited for Rift sensors as it has daisy chained controllers in the design.


Use the Inatek for your two front facing cameras and nothing else. Plug your third or fourth USB 2.0 camera and Rift HMD into your motherboard.

USB 3.0 Hubs

If you have a laptop and can't get a PCI card then you have no other choice but to get a hub. Ideally try to put as many non Rift devices on the hub and keep the Rift devices as close to the PC motherboard as possible.

The main concern with hubs is that there is an additional USB controller in the chain and if one of those controllers is not compatible then you might have tracking issues. The issue with compatibility is VR needs low latency and high bandwidth which is required for good tracking.

So you have something like this using a hub.

PC -> PCI Bus -> USB Controller -> Hub -> USB Controller -> Sensor.

If anything in that chain is sub standard you have issues. If you have good USB Controllers in that chain you wont see issues. Just remember a quality hub is only as good as the USB port on your PC you plug it into.

It is also recommended to get a powered USB hub if you have to go the hub route. People sometimes encounter not just a bandwidth/latency bottleneck but a power bottleneck. Importantly some PC USB ports can't push out enough power to power all the devices plugged into the hub. Get a powered hub to avoid this possibility.

Below are two brands Anker and Amazon Basics which are the hubs I commonly see people say have worked for the Rift.




u/outbound · 5 pointsr/openwrt

I seriously doubt that there's enough power for two USB drives. But you'll be able to make everything work with a powered USB hub.

That link is for a 2.5A powered hub. If you've got older (or more power hungry) drives, you may want to get one with more power.

u/tvtb · 5 pointsr/mac

Literally any hub that follows the USB3 spec should work. Try to get one that's powered (comes with a power brick you plug in) and isn't the cheapest thing you can find. This one works fine.

u/Teamyuss · 3 pointsr/xboxone

I use this one AmazonBasics 4 Port USB 3.0 Hub with 5V/2.5A power adapter

u/plutPWNium · 3 pointsr/WindowsMR

This happened to me a few times after getting extansion cables for my hmd(O+). I read a powered usb hub can fix it, so I got one off amazon. It seems to work. I also had my usb microphone plugged into the hub after I got it, and for whatever reason my pc wasn't recognizing the mic, so I stopped using the hub and plugged it directly into my pc(along with the HMD). I got the static sound again, and plugged the HMD back into the hub, and hasn't happened since, so I'm pretty sure its not a placebo.

u/remembertosmilebot · 3 pointsr/wiiu

Did you know Amazon will donate a portion of every purchase if you shop by going to smile.amazon.com instead? Over $50,000,000 has been raised for charity - all you need to do is change the URL!

Here are your smile-ified links:



^^i'm ^^a ^^friendly bot

u/upcboy · 3 pointsr/Surface

I don't use a Case or a Sleeve so I can't comment on that, But for a USB port I use this Amazon USB 3.0 Powered Hub. I also have a StarTech Gigabit network Adapter that works Great! I've tried several different External Controllers(I assume you mean Game Controllers) and the best I've found is my PS4 Controller. It connects to the SP3 and works with out any real setup. I also Purchased this last night to carry it in (it wont be in for a few days so I can't comment on the quality) STM Alley Small

u/Hothabanero6 · 3 pointsr/Surface

Sounds like a power problem however, an SD card shouldn't need that much power.
The Surface USB port provides the standard base 900ma only.

I use the Amazon 4 port powered Hub with my SP3 & S3, mostly unpowered unless I specifically need to plug in the power.

u/ShowerBeer- · 2 pointsr/iphone

no... that is a good thing (i have one), and it will charge multiple devices, but OP wanted it to be able to sync them all to his computer too. a simple powered usb hub like this would do it:


note that it has both a power adapter and an "upstream" usb connecting it to the pc. if you have only usb, it probably won't charge all devices full speed. if you have only power, it obviously won't connect the devices to the computer.

u/GlarnCurious · 2 pointsr/techsupport

You need a USB HUB.

Amazon have their own brand that is very well built.
There are many cheaper alternatives but you run the risk of not meeting electronic safety regulations which could result in:

A) A house fire.
B) Fried USB ports.

Link to the hub

Source: USB Hub owner

u/baby-alligators · 2 pointsr/WeAreTheMusicMakers

Depending on the cost of a fourth, the best option could be to buy a powered USB hub as you mention. This one seems like it could be decent. The only inconvenience is that you need access to a power supply and it is a laptop (meant to be portable). I suppose with equipment etc. this wouldn't be a huge problem though. I use a similar hub (forget the name, I can check for you later if you're interested) and it works fine; they are very much plug-and-play items.

u/adio_v2 · 2 pointsr/WindowsMR

I was nervous reading about issues with extending the cables of my O+ that I had just got since my pc is behind a wall in another room. I got mine to work first try by going:

PC 3.0 USB <- Male- USB 3.0 10 Feet -Female-> <- Male USB Powered Hub Female-> <-O+ USB

GPU HDMI <- Male HDMI 2.0 10 Feet Male -><-Female HDMI Coupler Female -><-O+ HDMI


I got the usb 3.0 Male/Female cable from a local store. The rest from amazon. The usb hub is plugged in with 5V power supply and the extension cord HAD to be plugged into the hardwired male cable on the hub. It does not work by plugging the extension and odyssey into the 4 hub slots.





u/poorscribbler · 2 pointsr/raspberry_pi

Lots of good suggestions here. Just make sure you also get him a powered USB hub. It can't handle having more than two devices hooked up to it. I bought this one:Amazon Basics USB 3.0 Powered USB Hub It works great, and it gives the ability to hook quite a few more devices to the B+ model.

u/nukedorbit · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

3x 4-way USB hubs, powered.

Edit: Actually, there is a 10 port model. I would just use that, and the 5 or 6 others on my case/motherboard would suffice.

u/demonlag · 2 pointsr/Steam

Probably closer to 10 to 15 bucks for a powered usb hub. A non powered hub powers itself and all attached devices using the power from the USB port on the PC. A powered hub has a dedicated power input and provides its own power for itself and all attached devices.

An Xbox 360 wired controller looks to be listed as around .48A, and a standard USB2 port is usually rated for .5A total draw. USB 3 I believe is .9A, so an non powered hub may not get you four working controllers.

Something like this should be a safe choice for you:
AmazonBasics 4 Port USB 3.0 Hub with 5V/2.5A power adapter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DQFGH80/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_BK1nybA3V46AS

u/Kiriesh · 2 pointsr/applehelp

While I don't have specific experience with that writer, generally if an external device has 2 usb ports (like usb cd drives or usb external hard drives) 1 is for data and 1 is for power. You should be fine using something like a powered usb hub.

u/Dora_De_Destroya · 2 pointsr/Rockband

I use this for mics and works great


u/ton2010 · 2 pointsr/PS4

While true in theory, for my own use it doesn't apply because I don't need it for anything other than this specific usage. On top of that, I like things to be neat, and hiding the USB hub wouldn't work too well in my setup, much less having the extra power plug/wire to deal with.

It's just a small annoyance and I'll probably end up getting it anyway, but I've definitely been finding it to be one of the few gripes I have with the PS4 (#1 being no support for the official Bluetooth headset from PS3, despite the wireless chip in the PS4 having the ability to function exactly the same as its predecessor).

u/tubeguy · 2 pointsr/audiophile

Looks like it doesn't actually come with the adapter, which is not uncommon. This one would be better as it does come with the wall-wart supply.

u/MrMunchkin · 2 pointsr/techsupport
  1. You should download the Windows Assessment and Deployment 8.1 (ADK 8.1)

  2. Read the Windows ADK Quickstart

  3. Create a WinPE boot disk with "Image capturing and services" feature installed (specificially for the DISM utility)

  4. Get a USB 3.0 powered hub because the Surface 3 has a low-powered USB port

  5. Use DISM to capture your existing SSD and you can apply it to any other disk you want
u/rtechie1 · 2 pointsr/gadgets

Buy a 4 port KVM like this one, attach a 4 port USB hub to the input, and then attach your 3 USB devices to the hub. You might need to buy a powered hub instead.

u/itwasonlyjustadream · 2 pointsr/PlaystationClassic


Is this good to buy? And can I still use the usb cables the PS Classic gave us to connect it to the hub?

u/ACM_ONE · 2 pointsr/PS4

AmazonBasics 4 Port USB to USB 3.0 Hub with 5V/2.5A power adapter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DQFGH80/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_zgE4CbC4ERKGD

Plug your hub into port 1 on PS4. Plug ext. hard drive into port 2 on PS4. Anything else goes into the hub (charging cables, headset usb, etc..)

u/not-an-AI · 2 pointsr/PS4

USB devices like a headset or a controller use power from the device they are connected to. As for a USB hub there are two types: Those getting power from PS4/PC and those having a small separate power supply.

The important part is that power is limited on a USB hub without power supply to what you get from one USB port of the PS4. It might not be enough for headset plus controller and thus one of them might not work.

With power supply multiple (or even all) connected devices can use the maximum power allowed for USB.

An example for a USB3 hub with power supply/AC adapter is this one:


If I were looking for one that's what I would get for my PS4.

u/faz712 · 2 pointsr/Surface

you may or may not need a powered usb hub depending on the type and number of things you want to use

u/onliandone · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Describe a bit more about the unit you want. Is it supposed to be a PC of its own? In that case one would get an ITX case that fits three 5.25" drives, like https://www.amazon.com/iStarUSA-S-35-Compact-5-25-Inch-mini-ITX/dp/B00DJ7T3YK. If you want something that connects to other PCs I'd glue three external drives together and just use USB. And yes, connecting those to an USB hub is a good idea (maybe an USB 3.1 Gen 2 hub to avoid any bandwidth issues).

If you have to use the internal drives without a PC of their own I'd get three of https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-SATA-Drive-Adapter-Cable/dp/B00HJZJI84/ + a powered USB 3.0 hub like https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Port-USB-Power-Adapter/dp/B00DQFGH80/.

But I haven't build something like that yet. When I still used optical disk writers there was always the issue of having to keep the system calm to not produce write errors. I'm not 100% certain having three connected to a hub won't be without issues - but it's not too expensive to try out.

u/Scotsmania · 2 pointsr/PS4
u/N0rthernWind · 2 pointsr/buildmeapc

Cant you just add a USB hub to the back? Something like this. That is likely the cheapest option.

u/twoElectricBoogaloo · 2 pointsr/raspberry_pi

Best Buy, Fry's, Microcenter, Walmart would all sell powered USB hubs. I use a few of these around my house. Cheap, effective, safe.


u/technofiend · 2 pointsr/nexus6

With a direct connection via on-the-go cable (USB Audio Player Pro) says a device is attached but that the phone can't drive enough power through the port. According to the JDS Labs (blog) the solution is to use a powered hub. I've tried two different powered hubs including a brand new (Amazon Basics) with a 2.5 Amp power supply, which should be more than enough, but still get no audio from the amp.

I've also tried using (SoundAbout) to force Google Play Music to route through the USB DAC. Doesn't work in host or client mode. Anyone have this working and if so what hardware did you use to bridge from the Nexus 6 to your amp?

u/devil_yager · 2 pointsr/Surface

Good thing because the one the other poster suggested wouldn't have worked for a Surface Pro device - that one is specific to the Surface 3 (non-Pro).

As far as USB hubs go, the problem with wanting to run an external drive via a USB hub is that the hub itself typically has to be powered, reducing its portability. It might be easier for you to use a Bluetooth-enabled mouse like Logitech MX Anywhere or Surface Arc Mouse or Razer Artheris - basically any wireless mouse that doesn't depend on a dongle to work.

If portability doesn't matter to you, then maybe AmazonBasics 4 Port Hub would work. It's cheap, powered and has tons of positive reviews.

u/TheMarknessROCK · 2 pointsr/oculus

Good old Amazon Basic's 4 port powered USB w/ an Apple USB-C to USB adapter.


One I had from before using a Surface Pro Hackintosh, works great for the Oculus with 3 sensors. All the USB goes into that Rift, and 3 sensors. Long as I keep the 3rd sensor on USB2.0 using the monoprice cable I get no tracking issues related to sensor hookups.

Yeah I love the setup, I had a 2015 Macbook Pro which ran great for work / OSX needs. It made sense to dump the gaming laptop Razer and consolidate the Macbook and Razer into the new one. eGPU made that possible, TB3 rocks speed wise the hit isn't terrible long as you use an external monitor. Works great here.

u/EHP42 · 1 pointr/WindowsMR

I had a similar issue with everything going janky and then the headset shutting off with a blue screen. I bought this powered USB3.0 hub and everything seems to work well now.

u/hiding_from_my_gf · 1 pointr/raspberry_pi

I had the same scenario. usb powered hub and i never really got it working the way i wanted, but i had power hungry stuff. I bought this one.

In the end, it really depends on the adapter. Some of them just won't provide enough power, even with that usb duplicating wire you are referencing in your other post.

What model is your USB hub?

u/ReproCompter · 1 pointr/HelpMeFind

Amazon has one at a decent price it seems.

u/Apatay- · 1 pointr/techsupport

I don't wanna burn this thing though by giving more than its need. So, should I go with 5V - 2 Amps? What happens if you put more amp or less?




This one looks similar and using 2.5A.

u/Shabbypenguin · 1 pointr/oculus

2x USB Hub - https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DQFGH80

PCIe card - https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01G86538S

2x Extension cable - https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DMFB5OK

HDMI cable - https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B014I8TC4E

HDMI repeater - https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GHL72XS

illustration of my setup.


i have a 5M cable running to each usb hub that is powered that then handles either 2 sensors or a sensor and a headset. obviously im not stretching the distance you are, but i think your major hangup here is going to be that hdmi signal being repeated over such a distance.

also, why two usb 2.0?

u/glah · 1 pointr/Surface

This is the one that I am considering getting. It is fairly compact but has an option power supply for desk use if/when you need more power. Gets good reviews and is only $19.

u/highs_n_lows · 1 pointr/Surface


This is the one I have. It comes with a power adapter but I havent had to use it.

u/RC-Compton · 1 pointr/DIY

Hello everyone!

I've seen a couple floating bed on /r/DIY but I decided to design my own with a slightly more "modern" look. I'm currently also looking into how to bind my LEDs to my Phillips Hue if anyone has anyone ideas. I hope you all enjoy it!

Here is the TinkerCAD I Designed first.


And here are some of the things I got off Amazon for the bed.

RGB LED Strip.


USB Charging Hubs


u/CyberJeeves · 1 pointr/SuggestALaptop

If you like the T300, then we recommend you get the Transformer Book T300LA-XH71T, which has a dual core i7 4500U processor, 8GB ram, 256GB SSD and a 1920x1080 13.3" detachable screen. It only has 1 USB 3.0 port, but you could easily buy an AmazonBasics USB 3.0 hub to obtain additional ports. It has a micro-HDMI port, so you'll need a microHDMI-to-HDMI cable in order to plug into other devices.

For your games, you don't necessarily need a dedicated GPU because they aren't very intense. You may need to dial back some of the graphics settings, but Civ tends to be CPU intense, and this dual core i7 should have enough power to play comfortably.

u/LordCryofax · 1 pointr/ShieldAndroidTV

4 should work fine. Especially the 310s (which I own and love!) which don't use rumble at all. However a powered hub is super cheap so there's no reason to skimp really. Here's a link to one:

u/Panasonicy0uth · 1 pointr/battlestations

If you're averse to drilling into your desk like I was, here's what I used for my cable management with less room to work with than you, OP.

The Basic Stuff

2 x 40" Cable management sleeves- $14

30 x adhesive cable management clips- $7

50 x reusable velcro ties- $8

2 x Cable management bins- $23

The strongest double-sided 3M tape you can find- $10 at your local hardware store

Optional, but highly recommended

AmazonBasics Premium Dual Monitor Stand- $190

AmazonBasics 7 Port USB 3.0 Hub with 12V/3A Power Adapter- $27

AmazonBasics 4 Port USB 3.0 Hub with 5V/2.5A power adapter- $17

  • The cable management sleeves should be pretty self-explanatory, but they have the added benefit of having holes cut out already for more efficient cable routing.

  • The clips are useful if you have to route any cables under your desk or just need something to hold individually-wrapped cables in a convenient location under your desk.

  • The velcro ties are useful for organizing your cables before routing them through the sleeves. I prefer to group mine by audio, video, and peripherals, but you may prefer otherwise.

  • Use the cable management bins to hide your messy powerstrip and whatever else you may want to hide. They can also come in handy for routing cables in more complex A/V or music-production set-ups.

  • Powered USB hubs can be really helpful for reducing the number of cables you have to routing from your desk to your PC or from your desk to an outlet. They're also really convenient when you have a phone that needs charged, a new wireless dongle to plug in, or just plugging in your basic peripherals vs. having to reach around the back of your PC to do it. I keep the 7-port Amazon hub on my desk for my mouse/keyboard BT dongles, charging my phone, and when I need to occasionally plug in my mouse/keyboard. Meanwhile, I keep the 4-port hub 3M-taped to the bottom of my desk for when I need to plug in external HD/USB drives.

  • If you have the room in your budget and your monitors support VESA mounts, mounting your monitors would do wonders for your cable management and organization. I recommended Amazon's because I use their VESA mount for my 34" Viotek and it's sturdy as hell, so I imagine their double mount is just as good. That said, there's cheaper alternatives out there, but I just can't speak to their quality.
u/PostmanPat47 · 1 pointr/WindowsMR

If you use a powered hub out of the screen for the headset it should resolve that issue, something like this...
Then you can probably still use the extender.

u/LittleHelperRobot · 1 pointr/WeAreTheMusicMakers

Non-mobile: This

^That's ^why ^I'm ^here, ^I ^don't ^judge ^you. ^PM ^/u/xl0 ^if ^I'm ^causing ^any ^trouble. ^WUT?

u/megaz221 · 1 pointr/raspberry_pi

Get a USB hub like this one. Since you are on an A+, a powered USB hub may be a better option, but either will work.

u/Phrozenstare · 1 pointr/PlaystationClassic

I am actually reusing an old 7 port insigna hub I bought from bestbuy a few years ago but this 4 port hub from amazon looks good. when looking for a powered hub make sure it comes with an AC adapter


u/adamz01h · 1 pointr/buildapc

This is an example of a powered hub. It comes with a powered adapter. https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Port-2-5A-power-adapter/dp/B00DQFGH80

u/cainsiphon · 1 pointr/raspberry_pi

I have a rpi3 and a portable usb ssd. Of course I get the low power problems. I want to buy this hub

Will this solve my low powered problems? The device says it supports auto switching between self-power and buspower mode. But if I connect my rpi will it use its buspower or use the power adaptor for the hub? Obviously I will need the hub to use the power adaptor power.

u/baobrain · 1 pointr/buildapc

Amazon basics also has some nice USB hubs.

Not sure if they're better or on par with the Anker recommended in this thread, but Amazon Basics always makes quality stuff for cheap, similar to monoprice.

u/kenmacd · 1 pointr/raspberry_pi

I don't think you have to go very fast on the drive, especially if you plan to push that data off the Pi over wifi/ethernet. The Pi is not going to keep be able to push data at full speed from a 5400 rpm drive. Have you considered boards with SATA (like the cubieboards)?

If you don't buy a drive with it's own power then the easiest way to do these setups is to buy a USB3 hub (USB3 because they typically have better power supplies). That way the voltage drop from the drive spinning up is less likely to affect the Pi. If that's not an option then you can add capacitors to help as well.

> I just don't want to buy something that turns out it won't work.

Well, there's always a way to make it work. At worst you'd have to buy a $17 hub. I would do a little research to make sure you're going to get the performance you want though.

u/Rorwig123 · 1 pointr/localmultiplayergames

This is the one I used for my laptop: https://www.amazon.com/Anker-4-Port-Portable-Aluminum-2-Foot/dp/B00O0KISQE/ref=pd_sim_147_1?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00O0KISQE&pd_rd_r=489QEWG9DFFXEM0F6PWJ&pd_rd_w=usKGN&pd_rd_wg=cAAL4&psc=1&refRID=489QEWG9DFFXEM0F6PWJ

Idk about the one you were looking at personally, but I can vouch for the one I just put up there. However, I have since switched from laptop to tower gaming and have been using this one since the power adapter didn't matter to me: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DQFGH80/ref=twister_B00FB50S0Q?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

I have never tried an extension of the USB cable, but I have actually used a longer HDMI cable. You could potentially get a longer HDMI cable to plug your laptop into a central location or a location near your chairs and then plug the controllers in that way. Unfortunately I have no experience with USB extensions so I don't want to misguide you with any guesses.

u/O-Deka-K · 1 pointr/WindowsMR

I have the Odyssey+ and just got extension cables for it recently. The AmazonBasics gear all worked fine for me:

u/SpacePeanut1 · 1 pointr/buildapc

I would suggest a powered USB hub if you plan on plugging a lot of things into it. Here's an Amazon Basics one I found.

u/clupean · 1 pointr/buildapc

The X99-A II has two USB 3.0 headers and two USB 2.0 headers: one for the case, and another for the back. You just need header cable adapters to use them, no pcie involved and it's only $5 for 3.0 and $7.20 for a dual 2.0 header cable.

With this, you've got a total of 9 USB 3.0 ports and 8 USB 2.0 ports and if that's still not enough you can simply use a powered hub (still no pcie).

u/MichaelScott13 · 1 pointr/WeAreTheMusicMakers

AmazonBasics 4 Port USB to USB 3.0 Hub with 5V/2.5A power adapter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DQFGH80/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_BVQNDbAKTX3F4
This is the hub i use. I’ll try and snap a pic sometime and send you.

u/Kichigai · 1 pointr/editors

There's actually a number of Amazon Basics USB 3.0 hubs. There's a little 4 port one, a 7 port one, and a 10 port one. I'm assuming the underlying tech is all pretty similar, so it's mostly just a question of how many ports one needs.

u/Element0f0ne · 1 pointr/PS4

I use the Gold headset w/ dongle, and a wireless keyboard with dongle.

I use this USB adapter WITHOUT the power adapter plugged in. All 4 ports work fine using just the PS4 power: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DQFGH80/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I charge my controllers when not in use with this: http://www.amazon.com/DualShock-Controller-Charging-Station-PlayStation-4/dp/B00ENFVJJO/ref=sr_1_1

On the occasions I have to charge controller/headset while playing, I just purchased a long USB cable: http://www.monoprice.com/Product?c_id=103&cp_id=10303&cs_id=1030307&p_id=5139&seq=1&format=2

u/esm8m · 1 pointr/wiiu
  1. I haven't played either one, so I can't comment. Sorry!

  2. Nintendo's list of tested drives (http://en-americas-support.nintendo.com/app/answers/detail/a_id/1359/p/431/c/563) includes a couple of 1 TB. Of the links they provide, it looks like you can still get a 1 TB one here: http://www.seagate.com/external-hard-drives/desktop-hard-drives/expansion-hard-drive/. But it doesn't necessarily need external power for you to use it. If you get a USB hub that can plug into a wall (like this: http://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Port-2-5A-power-adapter/dp/B00DQFGH80/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8), even one without its own power supply should work. That's what I use, anyway.

  3. Assuming you're in the US, the Nintendo online store sells them for $15 + shipping. (https://store.nintendo.com/ng3/us/po/browse/productDetailColorSizePicker.jsp?categoryNav=true&navAction=jump&navCount=0&atg.multisite.remap=false&productId=prod400003&categoryId=cat160004)
u/DarkGremio · 1 pointr/ipad

I just looked at the Microphone it's powered by USB.

You can buy a powered USB hub to run independently to a wall outlet so you can use the microphone


u/rambunctious · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

You want ones that have an external power supply. Like http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DQFGH80/

u/justlikeUNIBLAB · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

woah. that sounds clever. Not sure if I've ever used one of those. Is this the type of thing you're thinking of? https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Port-2-5A-power-adapter/dp/B00DQFGH80

u/freakingwilly · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace
  1. Get a powered USB hub. 4 port or a 10 port.
  2. Get a USB extension cable with a built in repeater. This one works great.
  3. Repeater cable goes in your PC and plugs in the hub somewhere in your room.
  4. Keyboard, mouse, and Xbox one controller plug into the hub.

    It's important to use a powered hub so that the USB port doesn't shut off when trying to pull the necessary voltage.

    This moves the access point right to your room and sends the data over the USB to your PC in the other room.
u/DRKMSTR · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

Are they powered separately? (with their own power adapters?)

I'd go with the powered USB 3.0 hub Link

If they are portable drives, you'll need more power, something like this: Link or this Link

Hope that helps :)

u/konzy27 · 1 pointr/steelseries

Powered USB hub? Switches from bus power to power adapter when PC is off.


u/Thatoneguy97xx · 1 pointr/GalaxyS8

You'll need a powered hub then. The phone itself doesnt supply enough power to turn it on itself.

Should do the trick just fine

u/disord3r · 1 pointr/laptops

The purpose you're trying to use it for definitely doesn't call for a TB3 dock; you'd be able to get by fine with just a USB-C dock. The difference can be a hundred bucks or more. The main reason I'd recommend a TB3 dock specifically is for a laptop that only has one TB3 port (the dock will then give you an additional TB3 port for chaining more devices together) but since your Carbon has 2 thunderbolt ports, you can use one on a USB-C dock and then have one left over for any TB3 devices you might also wish to connect later on as you acquire them.

For maximum benefit, I'd recommend a USB-C dock that has at least 3 USB-A ports and an HDMI connector. Two come to mind - the Satechi 4k which also lets you plug in an ethernet cable and is beautiful. A personal favorite of mine for laptops that can do USB power delivery is the Iogear. That one would let you have a single cable solution to connect all your devices and get power over a single cable (you just have to have a USB charger to plug into the dock, too). Both roughly the same price.


If you don't care about having everything running over a single cable to your laptop, you can save yourself some pesos and just get a regular hub instead of a dock. It could even be a USB-A hub since your laptop has one of those.

u/kronkifer · 1 pointr/buildapc

That's good the motherboard ports still work. There's a couple things you can get for more. There's just a simple external usb hub, an internal 3.5" sata hub, or an internal pcie hub ( if you're case/motherboard will support either of those).

That cpu is definitely no slouch, I don't think it needs an upgrade.

The 750 ti is a little under-powered nowadays, but it should still run those games somewhat ok. If you wanted to upgrade it I'd say an rx 470 would be a great idea. If you check r/buildapcsales you can find them for about $140 sometimes. Need to make sure your power supply and case will fit it though. Do you know what the power supply is? The case is probably fine as long as it's not one of those tiny ones.

A second monitor (or just nicer, what's the one you have?) could certainly be nice for just everyday use / multitasking. It wouldn't really make gaming a ton better unless you got a high end one like 144hz or even 1440p (which you would also need a better video card for). An i5 3470 + rx 470 should play pretty much any current game on med-high settings at 1080p 60fps.

If you don't already have an SSD I'd say that should definetly be part of the upgrade. It's one of the best things you can do to make a computer feel faster/snappier. It won't improve gaming fps. But putting the OS and most used programs/games will make the whole system feel super quick.

$800-1000 could definitely build a pretty beast rig. But imo it's not really worth it for your needs. Some good upgrades would be best I think.

u/MrRogerius · 1 pointr/XIM

This one: AmazonBasics 4 Port USB 3.0 Hub with 5V/2.5A power adapter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DQFGH80/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_p.dwCb1JT23AG

u/jebner2 · 1 pointr/homelab

No worries! I think I am overloading the 5V rail on the RPI as my Samba share is a little unstable while streaming movies off of it. I might get something like this to help out: https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Port-2-5A-power-adapter/dp/B00DQFGH80

u/inarashi · 1 pointr/oculus

Hmm, there is another option: Externally powered Amazon Basic USB 3.0 hub

I'd only be effective if the root cause of your problem is power and not chip set incompatibility, but it's worth a try.

u/SchwizzelKick66 · 1 pointr/HyperX

Try plugging it into a powered USB hub. This one would be fine:

AmazonBasics 4 Port USB 3.0 Hub with 5V/2.5A power adapter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DQFGH80/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_d1uYAb7H9P593

u/angusvombat · 1 pointr/headphones

Thanks a lot for your response.

when you say "powered" do you mean something like that https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Port-2-5A-power-adapter/dp/B00DQFGH80 ?

When you say "better" do you refer to something like Schiit Bifrost?

What part of the specs is responsible for that noise? I assume it is not "noise floor"? Would something like that even show up in specs?

After spending 30min obsessively clicking through Spotify audio library I also realized that intensity of white noise varies from track to track. So I might be actually having two issues..

  • recording quality. The "tone"/"volume" of the noise is changing from one recording to another. I never realized that could be an issue :\
  • cheaper dac.. (I hear it even on the latest David Bowie album, so it is not just due to age/quality of recordings).

    My current MDR-7506 have 63 Ohms impedance, so I was concern that there
    won't be much difference between my current headphones and 80-ohm version of DT 770.. I guess another learning that I should stop buying audio equipment online without listening to it first :)

    PS the actual set up I have in front of me is fulla 2 (works in DAC only mode) + magni 3 (I assume I should have gotten Modi, instead of fulla, but it is a whole different issue. I am now trying to figure out whether there is any meaningful difference between modi and fulla).
u/tbone13billion · 1 pointr/ipad

From what I understand, no. The power goes to the iPad, the power to the USB device stays limited. You can get around it by using a powered hub, such as:


u/b_beck614 · 1 pointr/PlaystationClassic

Thank you for the quick reply! If I go with a simple, externally powered USB hub such as the one I have listed below, what are the benefits of OTG? Can I use the USB hub for a second controller? Why OTG vs. a hub?

AmazonBasics 4 Port USB to USB 3.0 Hub with 5V/2.5A power adapter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DQFGH80/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_bETiDbQTT1139

u/shinobi3432 · 1 pointr/Surface


I was looking in the same issue of having a usb that is both externally powered and usb powered. i know its amazon brand but if this works out well, then this might be the best one for the price.

u/MD5isShit · 1 pointr/buildapc

Here is the way I would do it:

  1. Have the internal usb 3 to usb 3 adapter(link) plugged into the motherboards internal usb 3 header

  2. Plug a usb 3 hub (link)
    into the usb 3 from the previous adapter.
  3. Plug 2 of the adapters (link) that go from usb 3 to usb internal headers into the hub.

  4. Plug the NZXT usb hub splitter(link) into this usb 2.0 header to usb 3.0 header(link) and plug that adpater into the usb 3 internal header(#3)

  5. Plug your case usb into the usb 3 header attached to the hub (#3 adapter) and the H110i and Nzxt Hue to the Nzxt usb 2.0 hub splitter(#4).

    There are different adapters you could use but you get the general idea. Tons of adapters but it works.
u/HeyBossBehindMe · 1 pointr/buildapc

So I did a little digging. I'm nearly positive I have this, 2012 Macbook Pro

I'm going to get the following with it, but cannot decide on a monitor.

USB Splitter

Keyboard and mouse

Then the following of two monitors,

Monitor 1

This has a Mini DP cable, which according to the spec's of my laptop I can just plug it directly in.


Monitor 2

with a HDMI to lightning port.

I'm struggling to see the difference between the two monitors. Why is one so much more expensive when they are roughly the same size/quality and the cheaper one even has speakers! Just don't want to fall for any Black Friday scams trying to get a high quality item.

I figured with my last lightning port i can get another adapter to a monitor or another monitor similar to this.

u/fireball8931 · 1 pointr/techsupport

This PC wouldn't happen to be a laptop or tablet would it?
I have found that portable computers will generally keep USB peripherals on if the computer is getting power from the mains
Though, a powered USB hub is your best bet for this anyways.


u/Tchrspest · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

I'm talking about something like this.

u/adam105 · 1 pointr/PS4

Just a quick side note. I bought this from amazon and it kept disconnecting my external hard drive.

I used the external drive on the USB port on the PS4, and the 2nd port was used for this hub. For some reason, whenever I had this hub plugged in, the hard drive would disconnect and i'd have to repair it constantly. It happened constantly so I had to remove to USB hub in the end as it was un-usable with a hard drive plugged in too.

As soon as I unplugged the USB hub, the hard drive has not disconnected once. It sucks because I can't have two guitar hero Bluetooth adapters plugged in and working at the same time, which is why I bought the game in the first place. I only have one port spare, and if I want to charge the controller, I can't use my gold headset.

Maybe there is a better one that actually works, or maybe my PS4 USB slots are faulty. Just wanted to let you know.

u/Not_There_Onii-Chan · 1 pointr/headphones

Something like this? https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Port-2-5A-power-adapter/dp/B00DQFGH80

I'm guessing the power needs to come from wall plug since the power provided by PC is already not enough.