(Part 3) Reddit mentions: The best music recording equipment

Okay this is going to be a long post, so here goes.

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If you really want to get into sound design, youre going to need a few essentials. A DAW (Digital Audio Workstation), an audio interface, a handheld recorder, and a microphone.




DAWs

As far as a DAW goes, there's a few alternatives you can go with. I personally use Avid Pro Tools for near everything I do, but also mess around with Reaper. I've found that most studios will use one of these two. Most DAWs will have a pretty steep learning curve, so be ready for that.

Pro Tools First is the free version of Pro Tools. It has a lot of limitations, but for starting out it should be fine. If you want less limitations it costs big money, but I'm sure you can find a crack or two as long as you don't use it commercially.

Reaper is starting to grow on me lately. You can customize it to your needs, and the full version is only $60. You can also just deal with a popup everytime you open the program for ten seconds and use it for free. I mainly prefer Pro Tools over this because the video engine in Pro Tools is much better. But for batch editing multiple sound files, Reaper is muuuuuch better.

​

Audio Interface

This basically takes over as an intermediary between high quality audio and your computer. You can plug a microphone right into it to record sound straight to your computer. You can do this with a USB microphone as well, but the quality is a million times better with one of these.
I would recommend either the Behringer UMC22 or the more advanced Focusrite Scarlett Solo. Both will do the trick, I just prefer the mic pres on the Focusrite a bit more.


Handheld Recorder
Handheld recorders allow you to record anything you want to without having to deal with any cables. They should be compact but durable.

The Tascam DR-40 is a great intro recorder. It was the first recorder I got 5 years ago, and it still holds up. I've dropped this thing so many times and it still powers through.
Another favorite is the Zoom H4N. This was a favorite among most of my classmates as it was the one my school supplied, but I didn't feel like going through the checkout process all the time so I saved up and got the Tascam. It has a newer version, the Zoom H6, which is pretty slick, but comes at a higher price point. It also comes with some interchangeable microphone capsules so you can get different types of recordings. I'll cover more of this later.
I'll leave off with the recorder I have now, the Sony PCM-M10. This thing is a godsend. It's discontinued due to a newer version coming out, but you can find this guy on eBay for around $300-400. It's smaller than a phone, and the sound quality is amazing. If you have the money to shell out for this guy, definitely go for it. Every sound designer inn the industry I know swears by it.


Microphone

So the first thing you need to know is that there's a load of different microphone types. Its a lot to cover, so I'm just going to link you to this article that will cover the basics of what you need to know. Basically I would recommend different microphones for different things, all depending on what you're trying to capture.
A good all-around microphone is the Shure SM57/Shure SM58. They're essentially both the same microphone. But these things will LAST. Like,people have run over them with trucks and they sound fine. Definitely a good starting point

For vocal recordings, I would recommend the Rode NT1A. This mic is a great starting point for capturing voice, and is durable to boot.

For capturing foley/field recording, I would go with the Rode NTG2. Its a shotgun mic with great quality for the price, and never let me down in all the years Ive been using it. I won its successor, the NTG3, in the Riot Creative Contest a few years back, but still use the NTG2 from time to time when I need to.


Some Extra Stuff


Theres a lot of cool, free plugins out there. I've used both Blue Cat's and Melda's plugins, and they all get the job done with a bit of tweaking.

As far as building up a sound library goes, I would recommend recording literally everything you can around you and playing with those sounds with plugins as a good starting point for building up a library. There's a few resources out there that give out free SFX every once in a while, GDC has had a bundle go up for 2016, 2017, 2018 and 2019. You can also check out the BBC Sound Effects Library. Be careful about getting libraries and bundles though, as they add up quick. I have to go through my sound library soon, and I probably have around 500,00+ files but only really need a few thousand.

For all your sounds, you're going to want a file manager. A great and free one is Mutant. You just add the directory where you downloaded your sounds to, let it load them in, and voila. You can search easily for what you need.


Hopefully, all this was somewhat helpful to you, or to anyone else reading this who's interested in sound design!

Hey here! I'm a professional podcaster who streams full-time on Twitch. I hope this will lend some authority to what my answer is I'm about to give you.
First, on the microphones you've chosen. Both are REALLY pretty phenomenal microphones, but they do serve slightly different purposes.
In proper conditions, a broadcast microphone and a condenser microphone can be nearly indistinguishable in quality to each other. Condenser Microphones tend to be a bit more versatile, but also a lot more active in what they pick up. Dynamic Broadcast Microphones on the other hand tend to be a bit less versatile, but also pick up less.
If you have a room that is noisy, has lots of echo/bouncing (hard floors, tall ceilings, hollow desks and walls, I'd HIGHLY recommend looking into a dynamic microphone like (but not limited to) the SM7b.
If you have a well-treated room with little bouncing, echoes, fans, etc. You can probably get a LOT done with a condenser microphone. Please keep in mind, these are GENERALIZATIONS, and not all-out rules on how these microphones work.

 

My recommendation: Neither. Let me finish though. I owned an SM7b for about a year. It sounded great, but is EXTREMELY low impedence so you'll need something like a Cloudlifter CL-1 on top of your 2i4 to drive it properly without a gross amount of noise. Now, I own a CL-1, and it's an amazing little piece of equipment that you can use on just about any microphone to get a nice 15db push of clean gain.
Why not the 2035? Honestly, the 2035 is a fine microphone. Timthetatman (my favorite streamer) uses it from time to time. It's easy to drive, sounds good on the right voice, and with proper treatment is relatively forgiving. If you want to stay in that $150 budget, I love the AT-2035. However, there is one microphone I'd recommend looking at - the Heil PR-40. Podcasters like myself, Garrett Weinzierl, Pat Krane all use this microphone. If your budget can really go up to $350 for a microphone, this baby is pretty amazing. Despite it being a condenser microphone, it picks up less, has rich bass and highs, and is really versatile.

 

All in all, for $150, the 2035 is an amazing microphone that is tried and true. However, if you can push the envelope a little bit on the budget, the Heil PR-40 is an AMAZING microphone I would take a second look into. The SM7b is temperamental, requires a lot to drive, and I worry you wont get out of it what you really want.

1. He needs to be entertaining to keep viewers. If he's not at the 99.9999th percentile of skill, it's highly unlikely he'll build a following without being highly entertaining. So manage your expectations and help him manage his.
   
   
2. For someone to be entertaining a big part of it is to have a varied life. Conversation about a wide variety of subjects, being happy, healthy, clean, accomplished, etc... As a couple you should be helping each other achieve those things regardless, so maybe take a step back and look at that big picture.
   
   
3. AFK his stream, invite friends to watch it, etc...
   
   
4. Make him his chicken tendies, mountain dew, and open his doritos. Just kidding...
   
   
5. As for equipment and setup... This all depends. The next things I would usually advise would be the best quality camera you can get in your budget, like an actual HD camcorder and figure out how to hook that up. Maybe an IRL streaming backpack setup? Sound treatment for the room can be good, but majority of products you buy for this are snake oil, so do your research. I'll just list off some things that I recommend people as ideas:
   
   https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MWNYGUS/ - Adjustable clamp-jaw mount for cameras like the Logitech C920/922 (the most recommended cameras). Get a better or more unique angle.
   
   https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ACFAULC/ - Pop filters help a lot with audio quality.
   
   https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017WNJS3M/ - Green screen it up and you can do all sorts of wacky or cool stuff, or it just cleans up the presentation of the stream in general.
   
   https://www.amazon.com/Elgato-Stream-Deck-Mini-Customizable/dp/B07DYRS1WH - The streamdeck mini just came out, pretty useful for doing goofy on-demand stuff with programmable buttons. Some people swear by these.
   
   For higher end stuff for audio, put this stuff in a wish list if he does start to take off:
   
   https://www.amazon.com/Shure-SM7B-Dynamic-Microphone-Cardioid/dp/B0002E4Z8M - Probably my most recommended mic for people wanting to get into the more serious stuff.
   
   https://www.amazon.com/dbx-286s-Microphone-Preamp-Processor/dp/B004LWH79A - Probably the best entry level audiophile grade mic preamp. This is endgame for streamers personally, it's way beyond what most people have and it will give him an edge.
   
   https://www.amazon.com/Cloud-Microphones-CL-1-Cloudlifter-1-channel/dp/B004MQSV04 - Cloudlifter CL-1. This is a must if you ahve a Shure SM7B, excellent high end filter that will absolutely remove all noise.
   
   https://www.amazon.com/Furman-M-8X2-Outlet-Conditioner-Protector/dp/B003BQ91Y6/ - Further eliminates noise from dirty power. Everyone who wants a decent XLR high-end setup wants something like this.
   
   https://www.amazon.com/Allen-Heath-ZEDi-10FX-Compact-Interface/dp/B01ATAK5MS - This is an excellent mixer+audio interface combo, if you are going XLR you'll want a mixer. It's 4x4 USB, which for the price is a great value, and it's preamps and lines are notoriously silent. I bought the last version of this which was a 4x2 interface on a great sale, and couldn't be more pleased.
   
   There's a lot more you can get of course. A simple small table rack to rack mount these things... But it all depends, the sky is the limit with this stuff. Just giving you ideas of how you can go nuts with it.
   
   But at the core of it, if he's not organically growing by being consistent and working hard at it and trying to improve... Maybe he's just not entertaining enough? It is what it is. Don't think that buying this stuff really makes any difference, it only does if you are already able to gain viewers in the first place.

(continued from previous post)

The DAYUM Build (AKA The You Spend Irresponsibly Build) ~ $5500

Price breakdown by merchant

Type|Item|Price

----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel Core i7-4930K 3.4GHz 6-Core Processor | $554.98 @ NCIX US
CPU Cooler | Corsair H100i 77.0 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler | $89.99 @ Amazon
Motherboard | Asus Rampage IV Black Edition EATX LGA2011 Motherboard | $391.98 @ Newegg
Memory | Corsair Vengeance 64GB (8 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 Memory | $594.99 @ Amazon
Storage | Samsung 850 EVO-Series 500GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | $229.99 @ Amazon
Storage | Western Digital Red Pro 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $139.74 @ SuperBiiz
Storage | Western Digital Red Pro 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $139.74 @ SuperBiiz
Storage | Western Digital Red Pro 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $139.74 @ SuperBiiz
Storage | Western Digital Red Pro 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $139.74 @ SuperBiiz
Storage | Western Digital Red Pro 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $139.74 @ SuperBiiz
Video Card | EVGA GeForce GTX 980 4GB Superclocked Video Card (4-Way SLI) | $549.99 @ Amazon
Video Card | EVGA GeForce GTX 980 4GB Superclocked Video Card (4-Way SLI) | $549.99 @ Amazon
Video Card | EVGA GeForce GTX 980 4GB Superclocked Video Card (4-Way SLI) | $549.99 @ Amazon
Video Card | EVGA GeForce GTX 980 4GB Superclocked Video Card (4-Way SLI) | $549.99 @ Amazon
Case | Fractal Design Define XL R2 (Black Pearl) ATX Full Tower Case | $124.99 @ NCIX US
Power Supply | Corsair AX1500i 1500W 80+ Titanium Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply | $405.98 @ Newegg
Optical Drive | Asus DRW-24B1ST/BLK/B/AS DVD/CD Writer | $16.98 @ OutletPC
Optical Drive | Asus DRW-24B1ST/BLK/B/AS DVD/CD Writer | $16.98 @ OutletPC
Wireless Network Adapter | Rosewill RNX-N150UBE 802.11b/g/n USB 2.0 Wi-Fi Adapter | $11.98 @ OutletPC
Case Fan | Corsair CO-9050017-WLED 66.4 CFM 140mm Fan | $13.98 @ OutletPC
Case Fan | Corsair CO-9050017-WLED 66.4 CFM 140mm Fan | $13.98 @ OutletPC
Case Fan | Corsair CO-9050017-WLED 66.4 CFM 140mm Fan | $13.98 @ OutletPC
Case Fan | Corsair CO-9050017-WLED 66.4 CFM 140mm Fan | $13.98 @ OutletPC
Case Fan | Corsair CO-9050017-WLED 66.4 CFM 140mm Fan | $13.98 @ OutletPC
| | Total
| Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available | $5407.40
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-01-28 05:09 EST-0500 |

This shit is gonna blow any Mac Pro away. In fact, it'll blow everything away. You better have a backup generator. And you better know what you're getting into smh. Btw, I have no idea whether this is Hackintosh-compatible. Asus motherboards can be tricky but if you're going to invest this much money you might as well invest the time to set it all up. Or hire someone. Whatever. Oh, and still cheaper than a "comparable" (lol, it doesn't compare) Mac Pro by like, $4000. Buy yourself a render farm. Or more than one computer. Or the Apple Store.

RENDER NODE ~ $500

Price breakdown by merchant

Type|Item|Price

----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel Core i3-4150 3.5GHz Dual-Core Processor | $104.99 @ SuperBiiz
Thermal Compound | Arctic Silver 5 High-Density Polysynthetic Silver 3.5g Thermal Paste | $6.49 @ OutletPC
Motherboard | Gigabyte GA-H87N Mini ITX LGA1150 Motherboard | $96.98 @ OutletPC
Memory | G.Skill Sniper 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory | $61.99 @ Newegg
Storage | Samsung 840 EVO 120GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | $82.99 @ NCIX US
Case | Fractal Design Node 304 Mini ITX Tower Case | $78.99 @ SuperBiiz
Power Supply | Corsair RM 450W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply | $88.99 @ Directron
| | Total
| Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available | $521.42
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-01-28 05:18 EST-0500 |

Time for the render node! You only really need a processor and stuff that fits with it. I went barebones with this, and stuffed it all into the smallest case I could while leaving breathing room for cooling. You can stack these on top of each other. Better yet, buy an IKEA drawer set and put them in drawers. Remember to carve out the back to allow for air to escape and to manage cables. Voila! Your own render farm, nicely tucked next to your desk.

Disclaimer: I got the render-farm-in-drawers idea from this guy. I saw it on a blog like year or two ago, I had no idea he started a website. Check it out!

RECOMMENDED PERIPHERALS

For video editing, gaming, and general use, I recommend the following monitor because it isn't glossy (fuck glare!), is LED-backlit, has IPS technology for amazing viewing angles and color reproduction, is HDMI-compatible, 1080p, has a fast response time (5 ms), and is relatively affordable (about $160 USD street.)

If you want headphones, check these out. They're great middle-range headphones that are good for music, gaming, and other general use.

If you're doing audio work, I recommend using monitors for accurate sound-reproduction and to avoid coloring your mixes. A ton of people I know swear by these. Remember to treat your room! There are great tips and guides for all genres of music over at r/edmproduction. Don't let the name fool you; they have some great stuff for everyone.

In terms of mice, any will do; I personally recommend this one, though.

In terms of keyboards, use whatever you're comfortable with. I know a lot of people swear by mechanical keyboards, especially keyboards that have CherryMX keys. I personally hate them because I'm far more accurate with chiclet keyboards. However, I plan to change my key caps to some that are shallower/need to be pressed harder to register (I currently have Cherry MX Reds, want to switch to Browns). The great thing about mechanical keyboards is that they are customizable! If you are used to Apple Keyboards, this keyboard should provide a good balance between the feel of chiclet keys and that of a mechanical keyboard.

If you're balking at these prices, you're not alone. Unfortunately, quality products mean shelling out hard-earned moolah. If you can afford it and think it will be valuable to you, I think these products should work well for their intended purposes and have good quality. I have personally used all of these products. Of course, don't take my word for it; look around r/buildapc, r/headphones, and r/edmproduction for more recommendations.

(continued in final post)

Here's my two cents:

If you're trying to record drums, you can get away with just two mics, but you'll need a pretty stellar drummer, and a really nice sounding room. If you want to get a more dry, studio sounding recording, you'll need more than the Scarlett 2i2. You'll want at the very least, 4 inputs, all with mic preamps. Then you can set up a standard kick, snare, overheads setup and get a decent stereo drum sound.

As for kick mics, honestly, neither of those are going to sound great. You're best bet for getting a decent sounding kick is to replace it with kick samples. Kicks are pretty much the easiest drum to replace, and a lot of software has made it extremely simple to do it. When you blend in a decent kick sample with a room mic, it's pretty easy to make it sound natural and yet halfway decent.

For the mics, you really aren't going to get much cheaper than that MXL bundle. I would possibly recommend going to Monoprice and getting their large diaphragm condenser, and a pair of their small diaphragm condensers which will only cost you about $40 more, but will give you a stereo pair of small diaphragm condensers.

The one thing you're forgetting is that you'll definitely need to get something to listen to your recordings on. I'd recommend a pair of Sennheiser HD280 headphones for that. Since you'll be doing site recordings, you'll need some headphones that offer good isolation, can be tossed in a bag, and sound fairly flat. The HD280s are great for that, and they only cost $100.

Once you get the basics down, I'd highly recommend getting one or two Shure SM57s. They're pretty much everyone's "desert island" mic, and can be used for almost anything. They're $100 a piece, but can pretty easily be re-sold for $80 or so. Or you can go the cheap route and buy some ES57s for about $35 each. From what I've heard, they sound about the same, but aren't as rugged and indestructible as SM57s.

Sooo I just finished the entire rest of this post after an hour or so and looked back at your video and noticed something.. uuuhh you likely can fix your problem by placing your mic differently. If so, you can disregard all the other info below, and I wasted time, but hey, maybe you'll find it interesting regardless. (fml.. I actually enjoyed refreshing my memory on the subject though.)

So your mic is a cardioid mic, meaning it picks up sound from the front and sides. You want to have it facing towards you (your new arm will help with this) so you're speaking directly into the 'top', for the best effect. It could be that your mic is picking up more of the room because you have it facing the wrong direction. Also, it has an internal pop filter so you might get slightly clearer/crisper sound if you remove the foam filter you have on top, but maybe you've tried both already and liked this better which is fair!

Anyway, I hope this or the rest of the info here helps you out! Good luck.

here's an example of the proper placement - https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_continue=95&v=S35OcGu2ULY
____
Hey man,

Just listened to some of your VODs, and while I don't think it's disturbing I can hear what you mean. The effect you have is reverberation. By the way, very good quality stream otherwise, even the sound quality is great otherwise because your mic is awesome! Threw you a follow (TingaTV here). :)

Anyway you for sure don't have to worry about your monitors, as your microphone doesn't pick up sound from that direction (it's frontal/side), and I highly doubt it would reflect noticeable sound anyway. The green screen could be doing something to the sound depending on placement and what material it is but it probably wouldn't make it worse, but I can't hear it for myself so hard to tell.



I found some good sources to look at:

https://www.gikacoustics.com/product-category/diffusion-products/

https://www.gikacoustics.com/basics-room-setup-acoustic-panels-bass-traps/

• The first has great examples of diffusers and other acoustic treatments, which is one of the ways to reduce echo. Also has a ton of products but I can't recommend them as I don't know the company (and it seems very expensive). The second link is more information on acoustics, but keep in mind it's mostly for music and not streaming, the difference being that with music you need to hear the sound in the room clearly yourself without headphones (throwing thick foam all over the walls for example would make the room sound dead as it absorbs everything.. there's actually rooms made to have perfect silence and it's freaky as fuck haha).
  
  https://www.acousticsciences.com/solutions/reverberation - This site has a ton of information and a sidebar with more.
  
  If I were you the way I would tackle it would be getting more furniture for the room to fill it in. That way you could make the room nicer to be in and at the same time basically 'treat' the acoustics organically. Doesn't even matter where you put things but essentially the more you have in a room, the less echo/reverb you experience. Then I'd hang a cheap thick(ish) cloth curtain about 2m wide on a wall, which would do a far better job of absorbing sound than foam panels and is simpler too. You can see that in that first link I shared too, and I've seen it in professional studios myself. The safest bet for where to place that would be the wall behind you. Also, a curtain like that alone might be enough to fix your issue.
  
  If you hate the curtain idea you could try foam panels, but avoid these kinds https://www.amazon.com/Pack-Acoustic-Panels-Studio-Wedges/dp/B010GPFRUQ - these are the ones that I'd call scams, and referred to in my first reply, because they don't do what they say. To be clear the idea of them is based on good foundations, but you need far thicker foam to have any desirable effect unless your goal is to deaden very high frequencies, a very niche situation even in music studios.
  
  To conclude I'd likely recommend for you to return the panels you got, although I don't know which you got. You could try them out and see if it does anything for you but obviously I don't have a very high opinion of them.
  
  

Oh, interesting. You know, dynamic microphones can be interesting things. I vastly prefer them to condenser mics, but some dynamic mics need additional gain while others are perfectly fine without. Looks like yours need a little extra gain.

If it is the microphone that's the source of your troubles, you might instead look at returning the mixer and either getting another microphone, or get something that'll help provide extra gain to your mic.

For nothing more than gain boosting, the CloudLifter is a good item. However, it's expensive and that's all it does. Alternatively, a vocal processor might be another good way to go. I use a DBX 286s and swear by it. Rock solid, does compression, gain boosting, noise gate, all sorts of stuff in one. Looks like that Amazon link doesn't have good options for purchasing one, but I imagine you could find one in a local/online store (I'm not familiar with what you have in the UK, so I'll leave that to you).

I suppose the alternative to the alternative is to just edit stuff in post. That's always viable and it's the least expensive option. Now that you know it's the mic and not your mixer, it at least points towards what you may want to do in the future. In the interim, I'm not sure how friendly Audacity is to use with screen readers, but that's a good piece of software that's free. I apologize if we've already discussed Audacity, but I'm writing this on the fly.

And of course, grab another mic (swipe a friend's or something) just to be sure it's the mic and then you know you're set and can decide what direction you want to go.

Cheers.

Oh! You don't need to wait on the other stuff - well, unless /u/DMZ_Dragon says to, but like, nothing on the audio side is contingent on the PC setup.

I'm presently slightly grappling with how the recording and monitoring should work here - on a PC, you'd just route the audio output through your audio interface and live monitor your recording audio through the same device. However, since you want to do voice coms over the console, you'll need to use an input that works with it - which will either be a console-compatible ADC (if these exist at all? I'm not sure if such a market exists) or the normal input.

For a headset with a mic and TRRS output - let's say as an example Kingston's HyperX Cloud, because that's a fairly reasonable headset that's a common pick - [you can just connect it directly to an Xbox one controller so long as it's CTIA, which it should be in 2019] (https://support.xbox.com/en-US/xbox-one/accessories/wired-headset-help). This means you'll only be getting whatever audio the game outputs, however, and you won't be able to monitor your stream mic. [Here is a very rough paint sketch of how things connect in that case] (https://cdn.discordapp.com/attachments/244316047258288128/602717684538540032/unknown.png).

Ideally, then, you'd want to connect your headset to your audio interface/your PC, monitor the game audio (so you can hear what's happening), but connect just its mic to the Xbox. From what I can tell, however - ex [Antlion's support page for their modmic] (https://antlionaudio.com/blogs/faqs/how-do-i-use-my-modmic-with-a-ps4-or-xbox-1) - it looks like normal TRS mic pinouts aren't compatible with the CTIA TRRS port on the Xbox controller (which makes sense). To get around this, you could use [a CTIA adapter] (https://antlionaudio.com/collections/accessories/products/antlion-audio-y-adapter) with just your mic plugged into it. [Here is another very rough paint sketch of how that connection would work] (https://cdn.discordapp.com/attachments/244316047258288128/602718385351950347/unknown.png).

That there will be latency on the monitor audio is also a factor - that is, getting the audio output from your PC's monitoring of the recorded stream may introduce enough delay to be annoying to you. Only you'll be able to figure that one out, however, as I can't find much in the way of data on loopback time for this sort of chain - I recommend getting a headset with a TRRS output, however, to ensure that worst-case you can use the console normally.

Assuming you took my advice on that front, my recommendation would look something like the following:

Headset: A [Kingston HyperX Alpha] (https://www.amazon.com/HyperX-Cloud-Alpha-Gaming-Headset/dp/B074NBSF9N/) for about $90 which is a pretty decent pair of headphones with a microphone for voice coms, good accessories, and a reasonable price. You can do better in audio fidelity, but given that you want a mic as well, you'd be paying more to do so and facing some somewhat kludge-y options for putting things together - if you do want to allocate more to headphones, just let me know. [This is the aforementioned splitter you'd need to plug the already-split mic output into] (https://antlionaudio.com/collections/accessories/products/antlion-audio-y-adapter).

Speakers: Either a pair of [JBL] (http://noaudiophile.com/JBL_LSR305/) [305s] (https://www.amazon.com/JBL-LSR305-Powered-Studio-Monitor/dp/B077N2GQXC/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?keywords=jbl%2Blsr305&qid=1563770412&s=musical-instruments&sr=1-1-spons&th=1) for $260~ (also [cheaper] (https://www.guitarcenter.com/Used/JBL/LSR305-Powered-Monitor-115397315.gc) [used] (https://www.guitarcenter.com/Used/JBL/LSR305-Powered-Monitor-115397316.gc)) or a pair of [Behringer] (http://noaudiophile.com/Behringer_Truth_B2031A/) [B2030As] (https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-B2030A-High-Resolution-Reference-Monitor/dp/B000Q6EHA2/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_267_t_0?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=P1M0M5HXNZ7C6A61SH0G) for about the same (as before [cheaper] (https://www.guitarcenter.com/Used/Behringer/Truth-B2031A-Powered-Monitor.gc) [used] (https://www.guitarcenter.com/Used/Behringer/Truth-B2031A-Powered-Monitor-115370730.gc) and you get the higher-end model as well) if you want higher output and waveguide/directivity quality is less significant to you. The JBLs, being rear-ported are better kept at least a moderate distance from the walls, whereas the Behringers are a bit larger and more cumbersome - I'd go the Behringer route myself, but there's something to be said for not buying from plagiarists.

Sub: [Dayton SUB-1200] (https://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-sub-1200-12-120-watt-powered-subwoofer--300-629?AID=1457483&PID=7112509&SID=45704X1167592Xb49ec94690de9baa7a1d4ac21fc74245&cjevent=f1446ac8ac0811e9805601c10a1c0e13) for $150. I'm historically a bit skeptical of cheap subs, but [Butterworth's Wirecutter review has in-room usable low-frequency output under CEA2010 standards being pretty decent] (https://thewirecutter.com/reviews/best-budget-subwoofer/#how-we-tested). You might need a bit of EQ (shill for EQualizerAPO as an option there) to flatten in-room response, depending, but the sub seems like a damn decent value for the money.

The budget is a tad bit tight at this point (unless you choose to avail yourself of the used options on the speakers), so for the mic and audio interface I'm only going to throw out some used recs unless you'd specifically like to reconfigure on that front. For the interface, [this Presonus Audiobox] (https://www.guitarcenter.com/Used/Presonus/Audiobox-USB-Audio-Interface-115552996.gc) should work (although Presonus' weird monitoring level knob always struck me as weird...), and an entry-level condenser mic like [this Audio-Technica AT2020] (https://www.ebay.com/itm/AUDIO-TECHNICA-AT2020-CARDIOID-CONDENSER-MICROPHONE-P48-PRO-COMPANY-CORD-2245/113826761993?hash=item1a809a8d09:g:ADIAAOSwCJ9dEBDw) would put you at or above the norm for professional streaming (seriously, why do so many professional streamers use headset mics??).

Depending on the calls you make there, that should sum nearish to 600, but there might be some slack - just wanted to throw this out now since it looks like you're holding off on buying parts on my account, which uh, please don't feel the need, we should be able to get things working with your PC audio wise regardless, so please proceed.

I'm going to assume you're talking about electric guitar, and you want to record on to your computer.

We'll go with the simplest/cheapest way (Note, you won't want to run an electric guitar directly into a computer, it'll generally sound like crap)

First off, you'll need a microphone. The Shure SM57 is an industry standard for recording many things, from guitar cabs to snare drums, and more. It's only $100, too! There's a knockoff of that mic, for half the price, that's supposed to be just as good (some people even prefer the sound), the GLS-57. Both of these mics are "dynamic" mics, and either of these mics will work.

You'll need to get a mic stand to place the mic in the proper position on the amp, which is a separate lesson in and of itself.

Next, you need a way to get the mic signal into your computer. The quickest, cheapest, but least featured way to do so would be something like the Blue Icicle. You would plug it into your computer, plug an XLR cable into it, and plug the mic into that cable.

For software, the most basic, and free software is Audacity. It really is pretty basic, but you can plug your stuff in, hit record, and it'll record. If you want something more powerful, check out Reaper. It's really good, and pretty cheap (and has a more or less unlimited trial period if you're that kind of person). It is somewhat complex though, and it'll take a decent amount of time to get comfortable with. If you have a Mac, Garage Band is just peachy.

inally, the last important part is hearing what you're recording. At the low-end, you're probably better off with headphones. I recommend either the Sennheiser HD280s or the less expensive Sony MDR-V6s (mostly identical to their professional MDR-7506s). If you want to get some actual monitors, check out the Behringer MS16s.

Unsurprisingly, you can spend a hell of a lot more money on any of these things. Feel free to ask any questions!

Bonus advice! If you want to record an acoustic guitar, instead of the SM57, you'd want to get a small diaphragm condenser (SDC) mic, like the MXL 603S.

For 300 bucks personally I would go with decent Powered speakers. Make sure you pick up a phono preamp as well if you go this route as opposed to using an amp+passive speakers (which is much more expensive, unless you go used). That's the setup I did, minimalist, clean, decent value, but still relatively cheap. Here's my setup for example...

https://www.amazon.com/rolls-VP29-Phono-Preamp/dp/B0002BG2R2 - Rolls VP29 Phono Preamp

https://www.amazon.com/Edifier-R1700BT-Bluetooth-Bookshelf-Speakers/dp/B016PATXSI - Edifier R1700BT Powered Speakers with Bluetooth - For the value these sound really awesome. Only downside is there are not great with lots of bass, they flubber. In retrospect I might have gotten something different, but most stuff I listen to isn't bass heavy so I'm not torn over it. I also wanted bluetooth in this room because it's a guest room.

https://www.amazon.com/Pro-Ject-Elemental-Gray-Turntable-Grey/dp/B01CZW826Y?th=1 - Pro-Ject Elemental Turntable - Great value turntable on the low-end if you buy new.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0000513O4/ - Tripp Lite Isobar surge protector - Because I'm paranoid about this stuff and these are high end surge protectors that we use at work. They are bulletproof.

----------------------------------

So anyways... for 300 bucks you can pick up the same phono preamp and these...

https://www.amazon.com/Edifier-R2000DB-Bluetooth-Bookshelf-Speakers/dp/B01CDU3IAI

I hear the R2000's don't have the same bass issue that the r1700 does, but they cost a lot more. Edifier is kind of one of the best in value right now, it's "Chi-Fi" good. The hardcore audiophile kiddos are often brand-whores, so take their allegiance with a grain of salt and try to remain objective, read reviews, technical analysis, etc..

https://www.amazon.com/Audioengine-A2-Powered-Speaker-System/

The A2's always get good reviews in this price range, I have no personal experience, but there are recent reviews that show problems with quality control, maybe the company is getting worse?

https://www.amazon.com/Klipsch-2017-R-14PM-Powered-Monitor/dp/B075JRF295

A lot of people swear by the Klipsch powered monitors once you get into this price range, but I don't have any personal experience, maybe someone else can chime in, just showing it here because you might want to consider it, read about them more.

https://www.amazon.com/Polk-Audio-Signature-S20-Bookshelf/dp/B01LVWWXQG

These are just barely in the price range, definitely consider them, my friend has a Polk setup and he loves it. These seem to get good reviews from hip hop heads too, so the bass response must be good.

It really depend on your musical taste, the room, what kind of setup you are wanting to go with overall and for what purpose though. If you want to be able to handle everything, up the budget, or buy used honestly. If you stay on a small budget and buy new, you are going to have to have compromises. I was wiling to have that compromise, but others may not.

All shipping accounted for, and it comes out to be $981. I'd probably buy extra guitar strings with the leftover cash.


$125 Onxy Blackjack interface - Best preamps in an interface in its class. Simple coreaudio drivers.

$30 GLS ES-57 - Compares incredibly closely to the sm57, I've heard several mic shootouts online and was impressed.

$6 xlr cable

$229 Rode NT1A kit mic, filter, mount, cable - This is just a steal considering everything it comes with. I once heard a shootout between this and a u87 in a multi-million dollar studio, and I could definitely tell the difference, but I would not hesitate to buy this mic.

$38 two mic stands

$0 garageband - Incredibly powerful for what it is. Great plugins, takes au plugins, automation, limitless tracks, great instruments. I don't use it anymore, but when I knew every keyboard command and every feature, it was actually a dream to work with. Keep in mind that is it better than nearly any reording setup from 20+ years ago.

$98 sennheiser hd-280 pro - While these might not be the best to mix on, they are the best to track on no doubt. That said, I have been listening to music through these almost exclusively for years now, so I know them incredibly well.

$130 m-audio oxygen 49 - Never owned this keyboard, I have a dinosaur of a 90's yamaha workstation I got off craigslist, but those midi controls look so tempting, and I'm not that good at keyboard anyway.

$120 squier strat - I play a squier now that I got for free from a friend, and I am sure that I haven't pushed it as far as it can go. With a little setup, tlc, and eventually new electronics, they are great tools.

$200 project reflexion filter - I plan on getting the pro version which is $100 more, but in this scenario I would settle for the project version. This and using headphones to mix are my way of sidestepping acoustics and room treatment. Not ideal, but pretty effective.

$5 Guitar cable

i don't have this exact one, i have the the X1204USB and its ok. perfect for the average studio musician/performer.
http://www.amazon.com/Behringer-X1204USB-BEHRINGER-XENYX/dp/B0039PPW60/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1416593544&sr=8-7&keywords=mixer+usb


here's the setup, routing:

http://www.reddit.com/r/Elektron/comments/2m7n2g/show_us_your_elektron_setup/cm7mq1o

wish i'd gotten that one, but its a lot more monies. i will probably upgrade in due time. that mixer looks fucking amazing. has amazing features. great price.

i'd pick the xenyx ufx1204 with the overload of features, good quality, and great price over the overpriced, great quality, but subpar featured mackie. i feel like mackie fandom is a bit of the monster cable/gold tipped crap... not much different in quality in the cheaper stuff... mixers are super easy circuits...

I've used Kontakt for some film scoring (I've dabbled in short film scoring) for its great third party plugins. Lots of nice stuff dedicated strictly to different genres and styles of film.
I'd definitely recommend it although it's sort of in the mid price range, you do get what you pay for.
In my opinion I think you're best off upgrading your DAW. For film scoring in particular, ProTools is industry standard and it works wonders and has a plethora of beautiful utilities with a buttload of support for it.
In my experience Ableton Live has worked great too if you're a little tight on the wallet. So you could pick that up for quite a bit cheaper and is still very good.

Ableton's layout and workflow works great for me personally, especially when it comes to the automation timeline, it's extremely easy to sync up any of your cues / effects and you can have the video play on it's own time line within the program.

As far as monitors go you're one hundred percent going to want to invest in a decent pair. Using headphones in place of monitors for mixing isn't ideal especially if you're soundtracking someone else's work.
There are many monitors you can easily afford with your budget that will be considerably better, if you decide to go with Ableton.

So just in my opinion, with your $1000 or so you'd be best off going with:

Ableton Live 9
Standard edition for about $160
or Suite edition (comes with more effects/instruments and features but not entirely necessary as you can buy those down the road)
for $400
-------------------
Pair of half decent monitors, KRK or Yamaha have some that are in the 160 - 250 price range.
I've linked to a pair on Amazon that I used to use that I really liked that are on for $300
KRK Rokit 5 Gen 3 - http://www.amazon.com/KRK-RP5G3-NA-Generation-Powered-Monitor/dp/B00FX7MMRO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1425278863&sr=8-1&keywords=krk+rokit
-----------------------------
If you opted for Ableton standard edition you should have some money left over to purchase Kontakt if you were still interested. Then pick up some third party plugins and samples along the way.

Hope that helps!

Since I saw other people wanting to do voice acting and you yourself might be unsure about what gear to buy, here is advice from a musician:

Try to practice with what you have, when you start to feel more secured about your skill, try to buy a better microphone, do NOT buy a condenser microphone, those are too sensitive if you are starting out, buy a dynamic microphone instead!

Recommended microphones, both made by the brand 'Shure':

SM58

SM7B (If you really can afford it)


To be able to use a microphone that is from an XLR cable to maintain quality you need an audio interface, there is a market solution that brings you to a prosumer level very cheaply and it is called a 'focusrite scarlett solo' it is one of the cheapest but also most durable and stable interfaces in the industry that is worth having! You can hook your electric guitar too if you want to.


The interfaces:


Focusrite scarlett Solo

Focusrite scarlett 2i4 (If you really can afford it, options like the Pad button make it amazing for general use outside of recording)


Now you need a DAW if you want to upgrade from audacity, a DAW (Digital audio workstation) is your workfield, it is what provides you what you want in terms of FX or samples (if it delivers them)


Good cheap DAWs:

Reaper by Cockos

Ableton live 10 intro (more expensive but you get more fx to it, it is less userfriendly for beginners from my experience though)


VSTs are what you will be using in your arsenal for FX and voice processing, you got tons of free VSTs that work like a charm and you got tons of paid ones that obviously work better but you can get them for cheap at plugin boutique! or sign in for emails of the sellers! PM me to request the list for free VSTs, if the demand is high, I'll make a list for it here and edit the post!

The plugin boutique website

Kyle's Setup

Microphone (Shure SM7B) - https://www.amazon.com/Shure-SM7B-Dynamic-Microphone-Cardioid/dp/B0002E4Z8M/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=shure+sm7b&qid=1549674292&sr=8-2

That runs into a clean gain booster, Cloudlifter (I didn't know he wasn't running this since he got his Shure in 2014. Once I learned that, I had him get one and he's been running that for about a month and a half now) https://www.amazon.com/Cloud-Microphones-CL-1-Cloudlifter-1-channel/dp/B004MQSV04/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=cloudlifter&qid=1549674274&sr=8-5

Which goes into his mixer: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CTKI10A/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Now if someone wanted to run this setup, I would say don't get the Behringer, they have problems but most of the time they're fine. But you want to get a Focusrite Scarlett https://www.amazon.com/Focusrite-Scarlett-Audio-Interface-Tools/dp/B01E6T50LY/ref=sr_1_12?keywords=cloudlifter&qid=1549674274&sr=8-12 or Mackie Onyx https://www.amazon.com/Mackie-Producer-Interface-Bundle-Polishing/dp/B07GJWQQM3/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?keywords=mackie+onyx&qid=1549674443&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1 (I recommend the Onyx but they're both fucking great, used both, currently running the Mackie in my new studio setup)

Taylor's Setup

Same exact setup as Kyle, even though I told them to get him this Blue Micrphone TUBE arm: https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Compass-Premium-Tube-Style-Broadcast/dp/B078MLBGRM/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=blue+microphone+arm&qid=1549674585&sr=8-5

It's a way better arm. Kyle is using the standard Rode arm & either that's what Taylor's got now or he's using a super cheap ass one. But no way that cheap ass one would work with the Shure's weight, so he probably got a rode. But I recommended they both get the Blue tube arm.

Woody's Setup

Microphone (Electro-Voice RE20):

His preamp/mixer is all in his rack that's mounted with his PC which is down by his knee. I forget what he's using cause it's been many, many years since he built that thing.

The microphone arm he is using is the cadillac of microphone studio boom arms the K&M 23860: https://www.amazon.com/23860-Microphone-Desk-Arm-Black/dp/B00AXMM0L2?tag=paidinsi-20

-----------------

The Shure SM7B and Electro-Voice RE20 are the gold standard for radio and podcast production in studios. You can't go wrong. But if you get the SM7B then you need a pre-amp or something that's going to give you an additional 20-40db of clean gain.

If you don't have that Cloudlifter and just use it with that mixer, then you have to crank the fuck out of the gain which greatly increases and raises your noies floor. So you'll be audible and sound good, but you'll still get lots of white noise/background noise.

In my setup it's the Shure SM7B, Mackie Onyx, Cloudlifter, Blue Mic arm and quality XLR cables. When I plan to expand and add more microphones to do several people in studio productions. I'll create a rack unit VERY similar to what Lefty is currently running. With an electricity conditioner and the same preamp he has that I researched on my own and it's perfect for getting the clean gain added that you need so you don't need the cloud.

I'll give this a go, open for suggestions from others to improve. This is obviously higher than you asked for at $833 after rebates, but it's good value. You can save maybe about $130 by going down to 8gb of ram, GTX 950, and dropping the SSD. It would still be a great pc.

You can easily add RAM later. I really like the speediness of putting the OS and your main software for production on the SSD, and using the HDD as storage for all your recordings. It's slightly more involved if you add an SSD later and move your OS/software over, but doable.

For using your digital piano and MIDI, I highly suggest getting a good interface like this Scarlett which is basically an external sound card with excellent preamps and midi in/out.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

Type|Item|Price

----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel Core i5-6600 3.3GHz Quad-Core Processor | $209.99 @ SuperBiiz
Motherboard | Gigabyte GA-B150M-D3H DDR3 Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard | $73.99 @ SuperBiiz
Memory | Corsair Vengeance 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 Memory | $66.99 @ Amazon
Storage | Samsung 850 EVO-Series 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | $77.99 @ Amazon
Storage | Seagate Barracuda 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $45.99 @ SuperBiiz
Video Card | MSI GeForce GTX 960 2GB Video Card | $179.99 @ SuperBiiz
Case | Cooler Master N200 MicroATX Mid Tower Case | $44.99 @ SuperBiiz
Power Supply | Corsair CX 600W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply | $52.99 @ Amazon
Operating System | Microsoft Windows 8.1 OEM (64-bit) | $80.89 @ OutletPC
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total (before mail-in rebates) | $863.81
| Mail-in rebates | -$30.00
| Total | $833.81
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-12-02 15:15 EST-0500 |

Ideally you need to purchase a musician's Audio Interface and a Microphone. A tested, tried and good enough quality for beginners is the Focusrite 2i2. A brand new, but unknown how good it will be since it is brand new budget interface is the Behringer UMC204

This will have XLR interfaces and provide phantom power.

Then you also need a microphone. You need to choose a condenser or dynamic. A condenser mic is fragiale and very sensative. You can't hold them while singing. They need a stand. They are better for quiet locations. They do a better job of capturing dynamics (both soft, quiet sounds and loud sounds). Condensers are more often used in studios to get the best quality. A good beginner condensor is the MXL 990, another good choice that is a little more flexable is the AT2020.

If you use a condenser (recommended) I also recommend a mic shield. Condensers will pick up all the noise of the room as well as any reflections (Dynamic will too but to a lesser degree). The mic shield will block a lot of the reflections at least on one side.

A dynamic microphone is one you can hold, this is what is usually used in a live situation. They can take more abuse such as being dropped. They don't do as good of a job with both quiet and loud at the same time they do better when the overall performances is similar volume. A good budget dynamic is the Shure SM48. A better one is the SM58.

I do not recommend a USB mic. It will dramatically limit you in the future and usually has a much lower quality preamp and AD converter than even the budget behringer interface I linked above.

All of this is way over your budget - but unfortunately that's about as cheap as I recommend even for a hobbiest getting into this.

Depends on your total budget, but my best advice for a relatively cheap starter set for bringing your audio setup up to a solid standard on a stationary desktop PC goes like this:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XCKGLTP/ - Fifine cardioid USB condenser mic

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GRMF5ZE/ - Neewer mic boom arm and pop filter

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BDX1IVW/ - Status Audio CB-1 closed back headphones

Total price - $111 USD

Don't worry about an external audio interface until you're looking at a proper professional setup or are having specific audio issues that require you to move your audio processing solution to the outside of your PC case. I've been into desktop audio for a few years now and this is my ultimate "bang for your buck" setup I recommend to people looking to get away from gaming headsets while keeping to a gaming headset budget. I have a couple of friends now running this setup and they love it. The mic is nice and clear, the boom lets you get it out of the way and have it wherever you like and the headphones sound great and are incredibly comfortable for long ass listening or gaming sessions. There's no XLR adaption to worry about and everything will plug straight into your PC as it stands right now.

That monitor is 144Hz stock, and it is overclocking up to 180Hz but not all panels may hit that speed. I recommend paying $20 more and getting a 1440p panel that is 144Hz stock but usually goes up to 165Hz.

R5 2600 is a $25 more and gives a nice performance bump.

That CPU cooler is overkill.

Get some faster memory for Ryzen.

The Crucial MX500 is a better value SSD.

Over $300 is too much for a GTX 1060 6GB.

You can get a fully modular and gold rated PSU for $5 more, that also has higher power quality.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

Type|Item|Price

----|:----|:----
CPU | AMD - Ryzen 5 2600 3.4GHz 6-Core Processor | $199.99 @ Amazon
CPU Cooler | CRYORIG - H7 49.0 CFM CPU Cooler | $34.99 @ Amazon
Motherboard | Gigabyte - X470 AORUS ULTRA GAMING ATX AM4 Motherboard | $139.99 @ Amazon
Memory | Team - Dark 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory | $159.99 @ Newegg Business
Storage | Crucial - MX500 500GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | $121.99 @ Newegg Marketplace
Storage | Seagate - BarraCuda 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $44.28 @ Amazon
Video Card | EVGA - GeForce GTX 1060 6GB 6GB SC GAMING Video Card | $299.99 @ Amazon
Case | NZXT - S340 (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case | $69.99 @ Amazon
Power Supply | EVGA - SuperNOVA G3 550W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply | $69.99 @ Amazon
Monitor | Dell - S2417DG 23.8" 2560x1440 165Hz Monitor | $369.95 @ Amazon
Keyboard | Corsair - K95 RGB PLATINUM Wired Gaming Keyboard | $169.99 @ Amazon
Mouse | Corsair - M65 PRO RGB FPS Wired Optical Mouse | $49.99 @ Amazon
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total | $1731.13
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2018-04-26 16:03 EDT-0400 |

Those Logitech speakers are junk, same with pretty much everything intended for PC use. Use some decent headphones or studio monitors. You get what you pay for with audio. Keep them a bit away from your wall and desk surface for best sound, this goes for all speakers.

https://www.amazon.com/Mackie-CR-CR3-Reference-Multimedia/dp/B00KVEIY4E - $100.

https://www.amazon.com/PreSonus-Eris-E4-5-Powered-Monitors/dp/B00GP56OYA - $200.

https://www.amazon.com/JBL-2-Way-Powered-Studio-Monitor/dp/B077N2GQXC - $300 (you need 2)

/r/budgetaudiophile if you want more recommendations.

Not an expert and can't handle all of these but I can have a stab a it...

> What do I do about windows volume?

I haven't used much audio stuff under Win 7 (never 8) but I think there's a way to set the relative levels of different applications relative to the system sound, isn't there? I think it's the "Mixer" link under the volume thing in the system tray?

> I have pretty sensitive ears and after an hour or so of producing, my ears feel really weird.

This sounds kind of like ear fatigue. Is there a particular frequency that stands out? Are there other sounds besides just your speakers?

> I really don't have the volume that loud.

You can get an SPL meter from Radio Shack for about $25. I'd recommend it, as "that loud" seems to be awfully relative. I generally hear to aim for 85 dbSPL, I think C-weighted (that's what I use at home)

> The speakers vibrate a fair bit and make the table vibrate lightly too.

Any chance this has something to do with your fatigue?

Speakers will transmit low frequencies into whatever they're standing on. Generally this isn't super-desirable (although it can sound cool) because it's not going to be as precise as the monitors themselves. There exist little foam risers designed to alleviate this problem.

> How far away should I be from them? / How far apart should they be?

For accuracy, you want (roughly) an equilateral triangle between your head and the speakers, and you want them at ear height if possible. This isn't always possible in small setups (and the acoustic space is often unpredictable/bad enough that these small advantages are eliminated anyway, for example, that reflective glass window right in front of you) but you can experiment. The ideal result is the best accuracy and clarity of sound, not necessarily the most pleasing sound.

Take a look at various pictures of studios and you can get an idea where people tend to put them. Read the comments too, as monitor placement is something a lot of people will comment on when it's suboptimal so hopefully between the two you'll get an idea where they "should" be.

> When I put my ear right up to the woofer, I can hear a light hiss/hum. Normal?

Not necessarily. For some speakers, yes, and in some setups some hiss is unavoidable due to line noise. Read reviews, maybe contact the manufacturer. I don't know anything about the hum - does it do that when no audio cable is plugged in?

Enjoy your new setup!

I am no expert by any means, but even low end producer monitors will cost more than that.
There are some DJ monitors you can get for the money, which should be fine if you are just djing. But if you plan on making music, I'd suggest you way a bit and save up some money to get something like this
https://www.amazon.com/KRK-RP5G3-NA-Generation-Powered-Monitor/dp/B00FX7MMRO/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1479260183&sr=8-3&keywords=monitor+speakers

They are pretty common and loved as a beginner set of monitors.
Yamaha HS series is also much loved, an upgrade compared to the ones above if you ask me.

You will probably be better off getting some good 2nd hand speakers for now while you save up.

Just a comment about the audio:

What it sound like in this video is that you're a bit far away from the mic, that may not be the case, but you should try to stay as close as you can to the mic so that you can pick up clear consonant sounds for more crisp audio. The other case is that you're recording in a place that has a decent amount of open space with no sound absorbing material. Consider recording in a closet with clothes or under a blanket if you're unable to afford things like sound foam to cover a recording space(I use sound foam, it really helps take the reverb out). When recording or making content, the ends justify the means.

If you're able to afford something like Adobe Audition, it has an Amplitude tool called Dynamics Processing which lets you modify sounds that go above or below a certain dB level, which can boost the volume of your voice. This can help you out a lot because when people hit the end of a sentence, they tend to go lower in volume. Also you can use Dynamics Processing to eliminate those pesky room tones.

Loved the video! Definitely well written. Keep up the good work!

-Gamebomb

I would say that the Klipsch is a lot better and worth the extra $216, but then again, you would also need an amp and that would cost you a lot more. You just need to really determine if you want to go the passive route and have the ability to upgrade more down the road or get a simple powered system that will work just fine for what you need and sounds great, but not have the ability to upgrade components.

​

Here a few good options in either category though that would fit your budget:

​

Passive Setup:

Speakers:

Fluance Signature - $269 CAD

Polk S20 - $350 CAD

Elac Debut B6.2 - $343 CAD

Elac Uni-Fi UB5 - $522 CAD (Considered to be just as good as the Klipsch RP-150M)

Klipsch RP-150M - $289 US (plus shipping and taxes to Canada [$unknown])

SVS Prime - $629 CAD (Can’t tell if this listing is for a pair)

Amps:

SMSL AD18 - $174 CAD

Yamaha RX-V385 - $279 CAD

Denon AVR-S540BT - $377 CAD

​

Powered Setup:

Fluance Ai40 - $225 CAD

Fluance Ai60 - $403 CAD

Edifier S2000 Pro - $500 CAD

Vanatoo Transparent Zero - $359 US (plus shipping and taxes to Canada [$unknown])

​

Studio Monitor Setup:

Monitors:

JBL 305P MKII - $440 CAD

Interfaces:

Behringer UMC202HD - $104 CAD

Focusrite Solo 3rd Gen - $159 CAD

Steinberg UR22MKII - $180 CAD

​

The studio monitor setup is one of my favorites. The JBL’s sound amazing on a desktop, but I would not get one without an audio interface with balanced inputs to help reduce noise.

Best piece of advice Ive ever heard is this: Buy used, buy smart, buy once.
$1000 will go almost twice as far if you follow this advice.

In terms of new equipment, I'd by two GLS ES-57's and the Karma K-micro double pack. Thats two very respectable 57 knockoff's and two awesome SDC omnis for a total of about $110, where as just one brand new sm57 would cost you about $100. In terms of used mics, I would search on craigslist for a decent prosumer-lever LDC. I am fond of the AKG perception line when it comes to this. The Perception 420 has dual one-inch diaphragms and three selectable polar patterns. Super versatile, and you can probably find one for around $120. At $330, that is a pretty useable mic list.

The PreSonus Firestudio is great, and I bet you could find one for under 300 lightly used. Great thing about the Firestudio is that you won't need to buy a DI box to record bass direct in. The Firestudio has two hi Z instrument inputs, so you can just plug right in.

This potentially leaves you with about $370 left. I don't know too much about monitors honestly, but I'd stay away from the KRK Rokit monitors, personally. Friend of mine has some KRK's and there's just no control on the bottom end, and really not much in terms of high end. They can make any mix sound like crap, and for that reason, I wouldn't use them for my main monitors. I know you could find something better for 300 bucks, and still have about 70 left over for stands and cables. However, as someone has already said, make your own cables, and you will save a ton of money, as well as learn an incredibly valuable skill. You will need to by the tools to make the cables though.

I use Shure SM57 running through a Forcusrite Scarlet 2i4 2nd Gen. My oldest technique was using Voice Record Pro 7 on my iPhone, and strategically recording in certain rooms, or setups. Afterwards, I edited in Audacity, but I've since moved over to Reaper.

Some mistakes I made along the way (and extra):

• Smartphones are perfectly acceptable and money conscious way too record. The catch is you'll need to be good at editing to get the sound quality your probably looking for.
  
  
• I researched a ton, before I bought, and when I finally had the money to purchase it, I still didn't feel comfortable (there's a reason why). Even if you think you're done, research it more. Be absolutely 100% with no maybes, while also being realistic.
  
  
• What I was paranoid about what the Scarlett 2i4 having some sort of issue of being quiet/compatibility issues, or the mic would break easy. Well it turns out neither of those are true. That is unless you pair them together and then everything seems true. The SM57/58 don't work well with the Scarlett 2i4 without a preamp to run between the DAI and microphone, such as a Cloudlifter CL-1 or CL-2.
  
  
• Know what your mics do, and what they excel at. Seriously, know your microphones well.
  
  
• Don't cheap out on a stand; buy something of quality. You don't want to drop a $500 condenser mic, because you wanted to save $20 on a stand.
  
  My wishlist is annoyingly long, so I'll refrain from posting it.
  
  E: I'm not sure if many will see this, but it's still worth posting. I did a walk through of my house using my iPhone 6+ and Voice Record Pro 7, showing off how different rooms sound, as well an unedited recording can be (you should always edit). Blanket monster is your friend.

Glad I could help! And no, just putting your mic in the corner won't help. You have to find a way to get that corner and ceiling padded with something. I've made vocal booths out of cardboard and cheap sound proofing. Not recommended. Something I bought not too long ago has been working surprisingly well.

I use that, then put a sound proof panel over the top. I was certain I was wasting my money on a quick fix but I don't regret it in the slightest. Put THAT in the corner and you've got some results. Need a good quality heavy mic stand though so it can add up for me when I was dirt poor haha. Obviously if you're screaming a loud main vocal line from 6 feet away from the mic you're still going to get room sound, but is worth the investment for the improvement I saw.

I hear you with the intonation problem. Bought a cheap classical 6 months ago that sounds beautiful, but the cheapness shows through there. It's a shame you would have to change any bit of that song to compensate for quality equipment.

I honestly don't know which mic to recommend for you. Sound like you're using a condenser? I usually recommend dynamic but I love how lo-fi it sounds. You've heard of Dr. Dog right? That song screamed early day Dr. Dog. Lo-fi for a reason, not because you don't know what you're doing. (even if you don't lol)

I'm shocked you are using garage band. Biggest mistake I see with people new to production is everything is too loose and floppy with the starts and stop of instruments. Yours is very tight and holds the idea of the song very well. I can groove on it without cringing at slightly misplaced strums or bass lines. For not knowing much about mixing this is very impressive.

It has a very intimate "I'm talented and getting by with what I can to make good music" feel. The only issue I see is that this seems like the song on the album that deviates from having a full band and is a novel clap and snap acoustic bit to shake things up. I hope to hear you change it up enough through out your material because that might be difficult. I didn't say that though. No obstacles. Keep making it!

EDIT: Don't go buying the link I sent you without researching what you're getting, I might have linked you one to sit on a desk or something. But that is the brand I have.

There is really no good "cheap" solution, but there are a couple that would likely work well.

1. This might not be entirely practical, but you could make a few sound deadening panels (plywood, and sound deadening foam with a base of some sort) that can be set up and taken down easily -- maybe stored in a closet, or under a bed. This is a solid DIY that provides a cheap and effective solution. What you could do is expand on the idea and make and put them on stands and place them around your recording area. You can't do much about ceilings, but it should still cut down on the echo significantly.
   
   
2. If it doesn't mess up your flow with your co-hosts too much, you could build (or buy) something like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017AI3B32?th=1
   
   This seems to be the most popular option: https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-602650-Microphone-Isolation-Shield/dp/B00GR9W1MS/ref=sr_1_3?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1491281681&sr=1-3&keywords=Microphone+Isolation+Shield
   
   Obviously, this creates a problem because you can't look at your co-hosts, but it could dramatically increase the quality of your audio and save you a lot of post-production clean up.
   
   [edit] Just realized you're recording both you and your co-host at the same time on the single mic. As others have noted (especially with that mic) this is going to be noise no matter what. So, just reconjigger my comments so that they better apply to your set up. Or something. I'm so tired I have no idea what I'm saying.
   
   

The Sure SM7B takes around 60-65db to get good levels, so while you can run it directly through an entry level interface, you won't get the best results that way. However, there is a solution (apart from starting with a higher cost interface). You can always buy a Cloudlifter or Fethead in the future if you get a gain-hungry dynamic, as they provide about 15db of clean gain before it gets to the preamp, essentially making 50db gain interface have 65db of gain, allowing you to use the SM7b or RE20 without a new interface.

​

As far as what is "good" it really depends on what mic you are using. If you are only using condensers, it would only need ~50db at the most, and likely that would be higher than you would ever use. If you plan on using a dynamic, having 60+ db is best, although they get expensive as you get into preamps with 70-75db of gain. Using a cloudlifter can help overcome that limitation though, so don't worry too much about high gain unless you plan on using it soon.

GLS ES-57s. Essentially the same frequency response as the SM57 (the difference could be attributed to the grille, slight changes in the body), to my ears sounds nearly precisely the same. It's got a bit more of a high mid boost but I like that about it. This was one of the best investments I've ever made.

Those would be your tom and snare mics. 4-5 of these and you'll be good.

Not sure what your budget is, but the MXL SP-1 is pretty well regarded for their sound as overheads. Overheads are the mics you put on stands over the drum kit to, primarily, pick up the cymbals, but they pick up the rest of the kit as well.

As far as kick mics go, if you're low budget, my thinking is to just go really low budget and replace your kicks. It's not difficult to get a good drum sound out of low-end kick mics, but your budget may not allow what I consider the minimum. If you can swing it, I suggest picking up a Nady RSM-4 for the resonant side of the kick, and any arbitrary dynamic mic for the beater side of the kick. That way you can get the attack of the beater with the dynamic, and the thump of the kick with the ribbon. If you can't, or do not want, to swing for a ribbon, any typical kick mic would do, but in my experience a better sound could be got from just replacing your kicks by triggering with your beater side mic.

I'd be happy to answer any specific questions you've got about drum miking. I'm not good at just talking.

one stop solution :

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Edifier-R1280DB-Bookshelf-Bluetooth-connections/dp/B01NCTNZRC/ £119.00

i haven't heard Edifier equipment, but their stuff is well reviewed on amazon.

​

two step solution:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/PreSonus-Eris-E4-5-4-5-inch-High-Definition/dp/B00GP56OYA/ £139.00

and

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Bluetooth-Streaming-Wireless-Receiver-Speakers/dp/B01CZVCYU0/ £19.50

or

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Nobsound-MC403-Mini-Bluetooth-Amplifier-4-0-Receiver-Black/dp/B07CHHN9MF/ £54.50

i have Eris e3.5's and they're great. the 4.5's will easily fill your room.

there may be better / cheaper audio source selectors w/blue tooth.

i'm not sure what connection option you mean when you say play using your phone.

with the nobsound selector you can plug your HA into one of the input ports, if your HA has an audio out option?

​

you could go passive speakers w/a small receiver

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Wharfedale-9-1-Diamond/dp/B002WJAQY2/

and

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Sabaj-Bluetooth-Optical-Digital-Amplifier/dp/B01N10PF4B/

IF you arent trying to spend too much money on it, I'd recommend just heading to a local studio and renting some time to record what you need. That is, unless you are trying to make this a regular thing.

I'll go ahead and throw some links up on what I list as good, low-budget options to get you going.

I'd recommend getting a cardioid condenser mic (AKG AT2020 ~$100), an audio interface with at least one mic preamp and phantom power (Scarlett Solo ~$100), and a pop filter (Audio 2000s AWS4071 ~$10). You'd also need a DAW to edit the tracks, such as cutting out long pauses and words you didn't intend to make into the final cut, and adding a bit of compression and EQ changes. Most likely the audio interface will come with an intro DAW that'll do just enough for what you want to do. For better results you can also pick up an acoustic shield (Monoprice 602650 ~$65) to help isolate the sound, which doesn't seem important just getting into it but once you hear the difference you'll see why its important. Oh, and you'll need to get an XLR cable (~$8) to plug the mic in, but you may or may not want one that's a bit longer than the one I linked.

Something I want to throw in there as well is you'll also probably want to learn how to get on de-essing. In a vocal take, often times an "s" sound will come out very harshly if left unedited. A method to avoid this is to not talk directly into the mic, but slightly off center. Alternatively, you can buy a VST or program that can do it automatically for you. Also, a good thing to do is to reduce noise either through careful automated eq cuts or by using a program such as reafir which can be downloaded for free from the developers here.

If you do get involved with all this craziness, and I know its all pretty intimidating, I'd be happy to help you get on your way to making some great recordings. Just send me a message any time.

The two types of mic stands that would likely work best for you would be either a desk mounted boom arm, or tripod boom arm

The most popular I believe would be this one here from Neewer, which I have personally used and is quite nice (and comes with a pop filter as a bonus)

https://www.amazon.com/Neewer-Microphone-Suspension-Mounting-Windscreen/dp/B01GRMF5ZE/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1520786135&sr=8-5&keywords=boom+arm

But if you willing to dish out a good bit more money Rode makes one that overall just tends to have a little more quality to it

https://www.amazon.com/RODE-Swivel-Mount-Studio-Microphone/dp/B001D7UYBO/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1520786135&sr=8-4&keywords=boom+arm

Alternatively, you could get a tripod boom arm, which doesn't require being attached to the desk but is a tiny bit more difficult to get situated in a better spot.

https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Tripod-Boom-Microphone-Stand/dp/B019NY2PKG/ref=sr_1_3?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1520786232&sr=1-3&keywords=mic+stand

I might add though that none of these come with is called a shock mount, which is an anti-vibration mount that actually connects the mic to the stand

https://www.amazon.com/Mugig-Recording-Broadcasting-Suspension-Microphone/dp/B078Z75C8W/ref=sr_1_3?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1520786604&sr=1-3&keywords=mic+shock+mount

This one will work, and on the upside also comes with a slightly different kind of pop filter if you wanted to try something a little different, or if the stand you choose doesn't come with one.

For keyboards, the smaller in size you go often the cheaper the keyboards become.

https://i.pinimg.com/originals/5c/40/ab/5c40abb3225a2d4dbcfcbffbf547e094.jpg

Corsair keyboard are some of my favorite pre-built keyboards because their new CUE 2 software lets you program any key you want and have as many key profiles as you want, so if you get a smaller size keyboard you can always program in the extra keys you may have lost.

to which end this keyboard is likely one of the cheapest ones I can find right now.

https://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Mechanical-Keyboard-Certified-Refurbished/dp/B00S9AAKA8/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1520787827&sr=8-2-spons&keywords=corsair+keyboard&psc=1

Alternatively, there are a good number of budget options listed here on this buying guide on r/mechanicalkeyboards

https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyboards/wiki/buying_guide

As for mousepads, you can just search "extended mousepad" or "full desk mousepad" and you'll get a good number of options.
A few companies I know that make quality ones are Corsair again, reflex labs, ankor, steelseries, and glorious pc gaming race

The last mention there from what I've heard seems to be the highest quality overall, though personally, I use this pad here as it's got a little more height to it

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B072BQH7R8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Once again, I'd be glad to help with any further questions or anything!

A few things:

Rehearse, rehearse, rehearse. The story and the actors' performances are #1 in any film. Go through all your dialog and blocking in a quiet place with no pressure. Be sure your actors know their lines and know how you (as director) want them to deliver the lines. Get a performance out of them that you think is good before you shoot. Don't just rehearse the dialog, rehearse the blocking and the camera positions, what shots you are going to get. Practice with all the equipment to be sure it is going to work. Then when you get in the real location it will be a lot easier to know what you're going to do and how to do it. This is especially important since you're trying to be director, cinematographer, and everything else. When actually shooting, you should not be worrying about your actors' performances. They should know this top to bottom.

Be sure your location is quiet enough for sound recording. Otherwise be prepared to do dialog replacement (ADR)--a lot of extra work. If shooting in a public place, try to look like tourists, not filmmakers. Don't use tripod (some places you need a permit if you do). This will keep you less visible and passers-by are less likely to stare at you.

Get plenty of coverage. Since you're a one-man band, run the entire scene from several angles--a couple of wides, a couple of mediums, a couple of different closeups for each character. Also get a couple of very wide establishing shots of the location. I'd suggest you use a zoom lens if you possibly can. That's because you will have too much to think about to stop everything to change lenses. You are also better off not trying to get shallow depth-of-field shots that are so popular. There's nothing wrong with shooting f/8 to f/16 to get the right exposure in a daytime exterior. This is much better than risking an out-of-focus shot because you don't have a focus-puller on your crew. Also, don't try to shoot anything telephoto without a tripod. Move in closer if possible.

Be sure you have a good way to get the sound you need. In a public location and without a sound man, this will be harder. You will not get good sound with a shotgun mic mounted on the camera, especially in a noisy location. Also, the shotgun will not give you good sound perspective because the wide shots will sound totally different from the closeups. A shotgun on the camera is only good for closeups with a fairly wide-angle lens.

If you can't get a sound man/boom operator and a good shotgun mic, I suggest getting a couple of these cheap lav mics for iPhone and record dialog with them. Get the free Rode Rec app for the phones. This combination is capable of professional-quality sound. Learn how to hide them. Practice with them. Avoid wardrobe that is going to rub against them. When you're actually shooting, I suggest you let both phones continue recording sound for the whole shoot time. If you stop and start the camera, have the actors clap their hands twice at the beginning of each take. Two claps are easily seen and you can identify the takes by looking at the sound waveform while editing. Be sure to get plenty of ambient sound (tone) for each part of the location. Use your camera's built-in microphones to get stereo ambience. This will sound better than a single shotgun mic. For noisy locations, this sound can be a life-saver.

Since you have post-production experience, you will know how to sync up the sound.

These are just a few ideas. I hope you have fun and get a good film!

I would recommend staying away from audioengine, there are better options for the price.

$120 - Micca PB42x: These will sounds better than the Audioengine A2+R, but the build quality is not the greatest. These are 'the baseline' for cheap speakers that sound decent.

$200 - PreSonus Eris 4.5: These will provide more bass and sound better overall than the Audioengine A2+R. Build quality is very good on these as well.

$283 - JBL LSR305 + $120 - Scarlett 2i2 + $16 - 2x(XLR to TRS cable): This setup is amazing for the cost. I have been using the JBL LSR305 for quite a while now and they never disappoint. I've heard better, but those speakers are way more expensive. These can be connected directly to your computer through a 2xTRS to 1/8" cable, but I don't recommend it. When I tried that the speakers produced a terrible hissing noise. I recommend the Scarlett 2i2 over other audio interfaces due to its reliability, balanced speaker outs, and great mic pre-amps if you ever decide to get a XLR mic down the road. The cables are needed to connect the speakers to the interface.

I've been thinking about your request all day as I replaced the water pump, alternator, thermostat and belt in my son's car. I'm not sure I can give you an option to fit your requirements for $300 mostly because the recorder alone is going to eat the majority of your budget.

Since you need three microphones I thought about the $270 Zoom H5 Portable Digital Recorder plus the $70 Zoom EXH-6 Dual XLR/TRS Capsule but that is $340 total plus you lose your ability to record the "ambiance" sounds you are looking for.

Instead I would recommend the Zoom H6 which you can find occasionally on sale for $299. But this would give you up to 4 XLR microphone inputs AND the ability to record the factory sounds with the X-Y microphone capsule or the omni-directional capsule that comes standard with the H6.

Now because the budget is COMPLETELY blown on the H6 recorder I can offer a 3 pack of Behringer XM1800S for $40. These microphones are serviceable but if you are looking for much better sound I'd opt for one of these four microphones:

Knox Podcast Microphone

Audio Technica AT2005

Audio Technica ATR-2100

or a Samson Q2U

The Knox goes for $40. each one of these microphones come with a stand which you'd need plus they all have USB capability so you could use them with your mobile device in a pinch - but you can only use one of them at a time.

If you are interested in looking completely professional I'd recommend the $200 Sennheiser MD-46 interview microphone with these [Nu-Era Tabletop Microphone Stands) for $7 a piece. I used the H6, MD-46 and Nu-Era Stands at a convention last weekend and it worked sweet indeed.

If you need another microphone solution that better fits your budget let me know. I have dozens that i can recommend depending on what you are willing to spend.

I feel like I must apologize for not being able to stick to your $300 budget. The recorder is the tough part and I'm finding it difficult to work around it for your need case.

Did I hit the mark or miss it completely?

Thanks for the insightful responses... much appreciated to someone like me who is still learning a lot right now (although we never really stop learning)

As for the headphones, I picked these up: https://www.amazon.com/OneOdio-Adapter-free-Headphones-Professional-Telescopic/dp/B01N6ZJH96/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1512002855&sr=8-3&keywords=oneodio+headphones

They had really good reviews (although they are now lower than when I bought them) and so far I'm happy with them, but they are a lot less comfortable than they look, which I am pretty sure is due to me having a really big head. I've had them for a couple weeks though and they've started to break in and feel more comfortable on my head/ears now. Sound is pretty balanced, for a 30 dollar pair of headphones. With that said, I don't have a lot to compare it to other than some other consumer class stuff in my house/car which I know is all really unbalanced. In the next month or so I might pick up a pair of Mackie cr5bt monitors so I have something other than headphones to mix on, but we'll see. If you have any recommendations I'm open.

I'd highly suggest XLR mics and an Audio mixer. For voice effects, you'll have best quality with a hardware voice transformer. There are lots of software options available, but they typically have limitations and quality issues.

Here's a few suggestions as to what you could use...

• Audio Mixer
  
  
• Microphone
  
  
• Voice Transformer
  
  Getting a good audio setup isn't cheap as you'll quickly see. lol. The microphone I linked is what I currently use and I love it. The Audio Mixer and Voice Transformer, I recently ordered myself so I can't fully say how good they are. But, they do have great reviews.

Hello dear saints of the audio world,

I go by the name of TheBirdReich (you can call me Bird) and I do a lot of broadcasting on Twitch. Recently, I've been looking into upgrading my audio setup from my USB Blue Yeti microphone to a XlR microphone. I have a lot of questions because the transitional phase from the plug and play usb mics to XLR mics is pretty hefty. My budget is for the new setup is about $500.

1. Dynamic or Condensor?
   
   For my application of "in home live audio streaming", which would be most applicable? (Disclaimer: I yell a lot)
   The mic I was intending on purchasing was the NT1-A. Link is here:
   https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002QAUOKS/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER
   
   
2. Necessary equipment?
   
   a. Is it a good idea to purchase a preamp to supply the phantom power, and adjust audio before it reaches my computer? Is it necessary?
   This was the one I was looking at:
   https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004LWH79A/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A25IRTXJ3Y3DFH
   
   c. Will I need an audio interface to convert the line output of my microphone to a digital output to my computer no matter the type of mic I use? Do you have any budget friendly recommendations?
   
   Overall I'm really unsure about what to even purchase, mainly because of the lack of knowledge, and I don't want to end up spending more than I have to. I know the creed for audio engineers is to spend no more on equipment that meets their requirements. :) I greatly appreciate your input and the fact that you're taking time out your day to help!
   If you have recommendations on gear or items that you know would be good for my application I'd be happy to hear from you on them!
   
   Thanks ahead of time!

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

Type|Item|Price

----|:----|:----
CPU | AMD - Ryzen 5 2600 3.4GHz 6-Core Processor | $199.88 @ OutletPC
Motherboard | Gigabyte - X470 AORUS ULTRA GAMING ATX AM4 Motherboard | $139.99 @ SuperBiiz
Memory | G.Skill - Trident Z RGB 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory | $209.95 @ Amazon
Storage | Samsung - 850 EVO-Series 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | $99.99 @ Samsung
Storage | Seagate - Barracuda 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $59.79 @ OutletPC
Video Card | EVGA - GeForce GTX 1050 Ti 4GB ACX 2.0 Video Card | $189.99 @ B&H
Case | NZXT - S340 Elite (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case | $59.99 @ Newegg
Power Supply | EVGA - SuperNOVA G3 550W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply | $53.98 @ Newegg
Monitor | LG - 24UD58-B 23.8" 3840x2160 60Hz Monitor | $270.88 @ Amazon
Keyboard | Corsair - STRAFE Wired Gaming Keyboard | $69.99 @ Amazon
Mouse | Logitech - G502 Proteus Spectrum Wired Optical Mouse | $49.99 @ Amazon
Speakers | Logitech - Z323 30W 2.1ch Speakers | $44.97 @ Amazon
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total (before mail-in rebates) | $1489.39
| Mail-in rebates | -$40.00
| Total | $1449.39
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2018-05-02 13:59 EDT-0400 |

I bumped it up a little to do a little future proofing. This should be able to handle everything you need; games at 4k Ultra Settings @60+fps and some busy FL Studio files. If you wanted to come in cheaper, I would search for a different monitor (unless you are committed to 4k, you could easily save $200 here to just go with 1080p), drop to 2x4GB RAM instead of 2x8GB (If you have LARGE files on FL Studio, you MIGHT need 16GB; dropping would save around $60), and you could probably even get away with the 2GB 1050 instead of the 4GB (would save you $50).

As for the keyboard/mice/speakers. I'm a snob about speakers and don't care for mice and keyboards. I would rather do some nice headphones and cheaper/basic mice/keyboard.

# EDIT:

I double backed, removed the peripherals and doubled down on some other things. If you truly want a machine that works for both, I would recommend adding some nice Studio Monitors, Open Back Headphones, a Mechanical Keyboard, and then a basic mouse with a few bells and whistles.

I really like this combo Ryzen + Mobo. There is also a Ryzen 2700 variant too if you do want to go all the way with the CPU. Again I'll say you could do 2x4GB RAM and not notice any issues.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

Type|Item|Price

----|:----|:----
CPU | AMD - Ryzen 5 2600 3.4GHz 6-Core Processor | $199.88 @ OutletPC
Motherboard | MSI - B350 TOMAHAWK ATX AM4 Motherboard | $77.39 @ Newegg Business
Memory | G.Skill - Trident Z RGB 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3200 Memory | $209.95 @ Amazon
Storage | Samsung - 850 EVO-Series 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | $99.99 @ Samsung
Storage | Seagate - Barracuda 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $59.79 @ OutletPC
Video Card | EVGA - GeForce GTX 1050 Ti 4GB SSC GAMING ACX 3.0 Video Card | $229.72 @ OutletPC
Case | NZXT - S340 Elite (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case | $59.99 @ Newegg
Power Supply | SeaSonic - Platinum 400W 80+ Platinum Certified Fully-Modular Fanless ATX Power Supply | $95.64 @ Newegg Business
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total (before mail-in rebates) | $1072.35
| Mail-in rebates | -$40.00
| Total | $1032.35
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2018-05-02 23:32 EDT-0400 |

I am looking at powered speakers. I will be using these mainly for listening to music in my office. Source will be my PC, and hopefully, eventually a vinyl setup. I have max $150 to spend. I am looking at a powered setup for simplicity. I could probably be swayed into an amp/non powered combo, but I think it's a stretch at $150. I need something good for all genres of music, good bass, I understand a 2.0 bookshelf setup won't be like have a separate subwoofer. I have been going back and forth among about 10 pair of speakers and I just can't make a decision.

Here's the list:

Thonet and Vander Kurbis BT Bluetooth Bookshelf Speakers, Hi-Fi Wooden Bluetooth Stereo Speakers with Enhanced Bass, 300 Watt Peak Power, Integrated Amplifier and RCA Input, 1 Pair, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HG1JOVC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_DSHAzb60E38WB

Edifier R1280T Powered Bookshelf Speakers - 2.0 Active Near Field Monitors - Studio Monitor Speaker - Wooden Enclosure - 42 Watts RMS https://www.amazon.com/dp/B016P9HJIA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_kTHAzb4S1S3GF

PreSonus Eris E4.5 2-Way Powered Studio Monitors (Pair) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GP56OYA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_YTHAzbJ09ARQC

Mackie CR4 (Pair) Creative Reference Multimedia Monitor - Set of 2 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KVEIY4O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_iUHAzbAVD4RB0

Edifier R1010BT - 4" Bluetooth Wireless Creative Reference Multimedia Monitors - Studio Monitor Speaker (Pair) 24 Watts RMS - Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071YV97LK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_zUHAzbNHTFE9G

Plugable 4" Subwoofer Bluetooth 2-Channel Powered Bookshelf Studio Monitor Speakers - Optical & RCA Aux Inputs, 55W Output Power https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01KGPEW70/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_2UHAzb0R24FK0

Presonus Ceres C3.5BT 2-Way Powered Speakers with Bluetooth https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00N55NS4W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_uVHAzbATXGVCP


Pair Rockville APM5B 5.25" 2-Way 250W Powered USB Studio Monitor Speakers+Pads https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01D3Z3FGY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_MVHAzbKMSC2QP


Please help me stop going in circles. I know some of these are more than $150...just hoping to catch a sale.

Thanks for the question--I've gotten more ideas from the comments! I have to record here and there, so yeah, noise is always a concern. Since you already use Audacity, you know about the noice reduction effect. There are also some effects that can moderate larger background noises which you can google and try out. Otherwise, here are two tips I have used:

1. In a pinch, try kneeling and recording over your bed. The blankets and mattress really absorb a lot of noise. You can even use pillows to build a kind of fort/wall around the mic. Bonus: Helps you to kind of physically get into the voice acting.
   
   
2. I bought this portable sound unit -- it's on sale under $60. Yes, it's an expense, but using this and setting it on a square piece of foam, on a table top virtually eliminates most if not all background and louder random noise. You can use this about anywhere and it folds up for storage. It's smaller and just great for a table, desk or counter top. When I have the time and privacy, this is what I use. It's an option if you don't mind spending a little $$.
   
   I agree that background noise is not a huge issue. With Audacity, the hiss and such can be eliminated so easily for a cleaner sound. I'm finishing up what is supposed to be a kind of lab setting scenario series of audios and I've been handholding a recorder, mostly because of lack of time, but the residual noise gives it a more realistic, live sound (I think). Hope this gives you a few more options! Happy recording!

I did my research ~1 yr. ago, and decided to buy a U-Turn Orbit Basic. I haven't been disappointed. They are considered the best budget TT around unless you get really lucky and find a nice vintage turntable in good condition. The Orbit plays 33 1/2 and 45, can take any cartridge you may want to upgrade to, and costs $179 for the "Basic" (that's what I have, although I did get the cork mat for $20). you are going to need a good budget phono preamp with that though, either opt for the Orbit with the Pluto amp built in (+$70), get the Pluto separate (+$90) or check out the Rolls VP29 ($49) or another from the link. If you already have speaker(s) to plug into, great! If you only have headphones, you'll need a headphone amp. I love my American made Shiit Magni 2 ($99).

Budget - ~$60 Australian dollars, I can spend a little more if there are more suitable headphones out of my price range. For Australian prices try ebay.com.au

Source Windows Desktop (realtek drivers), Macbook, Combination Record player/Amplifier from the 70's, phone occasionally, Headphone amplifier for Bass Guitar

Requirements for Isolation - None

Will you be using these Headphones in Public? - No

Preferred Type of Headphone - Full sized/on ear, comfort is a must

Preferred tonal balance - U-shaped, but bassy preferred

Past headphones - Sennheiser HD202, good headphones but they were not bassy enough. Also the construction of the headphones weren't that strong but they were comfortable enough. Current headphones - Sony MDR-ZX660, they've suited me exceptionally well for my needs, the bass is decent but not overpowering and they can also handle human voice pretty well. The only downside is they do get uncomfortable after long periods of use

Preferred Music - It has to stand up to the use of my Bass Guitar, as I run it through a headphone amplifier, A Vox AC30, I don't use any distortion effects. I usually listen to let's plays or streamers most days so it's mostly just the human voice. When I do feel like music it's sometimes chillstep or stuff like this Benga and Coki - Night. My vinyl collection is 80's pop mostly with some pink floyd and jethro tull.

What would you like to improve on from your set-up - My must haves are: A detachable headphone cord as I've broken my last 2 other sets because of the cord. Durability wouldn't go astray. Comfort, I use them everyday for 5+ hours. Ability to handle bass guitar would be a plus.

Notes I've looked through the $30 and $50 guides, I'm not sold on the Koss Portapro. The Superlux HD668B look pretty decent for what you get but reading the reviews I'm not sure how it'll handle my bass needs

oh sorry I was thinking of the snowball, but it's the ICE version, cheaper and it's just the same mic, but without the different modes, Microphone Link and here are accessories, the boom stand is much better than the tiny stand they give you, and it's better for freedom, and it comes with extra bits for future proofing Suspension Stand Here's some medium quality padding if needed Padding and a nice pop filter to stop the P's and S's slipping through Pop Filter This is all the same stuff I use and it is a wonderful starter kit, I highly recommend this to you!

The Podcaster is a decent mic. The XLR version, Røde Procaster is better and, along with the EV RE20, and the Shure SM7b, are genereally considered some of the best broadcast mics on the market, so any of those should be a safe bet if you want that round, warm, radio host sound.

The Focusrite 2i2 is a decent interface for the price, it will however need a preamp, as it alone lacks the gain to run these mics. You can save money by buying an inline preamp, like the Triton Fethead or the CL-1 Cloudlifter. They will up your gain something like 20db, giving you more than enough.

This will all be expensive though, so maybe space the purchases out over a few months and just keep using the Podcaster in the meantime?

Here's everything for equipment, so hopefully this answers any questions:

---

Wall:

• TV
  
  
• Lights/Nanoleaves
  
  
• Whiteboard
  
  ---
  
  Desk:
  
  
• Top (74x1 1/2")
  
  
• Drawers (can't see in picture) (2x, in brown-black)
  
  
• Top Legs (Supports top off of drawers)
  
  I also made modications to the desk, including installing a grommet with 2 USBs and 2 outlets, as well as a wireless charger.
  
  ---
  
  Audio Setup:
  
  
• Shure SM7B
  
  
• Rode Arm Stand
  
  
• Behringer Xenyx X1204USB
  
  
• Dbx 286s Microphone Preamp
  
  
• Sennheiser HD 660 S
  
  
• Headphone stand (Not sure if I can recommend. Headphones leave a lot of marks on the stand and can make the transparant plastic look foggy)
  
  ---
  
  Peripherals:
  
  
• Glorious Model O (White, might want to wait for the Model O- to drop if you have smaller hands)
  
  
• The Glorious GMMK (Full sized, white keycaps, Kailh Speed Silver switches)
  
  
• Mouse Bungee (White)
  
  
• Mouse Pad (XL)
  
  
• Monitors (2x)
  
  ---
  
  PC specs:
  
  
• 2080ti
  
  
• i9-9900k
  
  
• 64 GB Ram
  
  
• 4 TB SSD
  
  
• 3 TB HDD (Unsure what exactly, bought a long time ago. Pretty standard HDD though)
  
  
• 1000w Power Supply
  
  
• HZXT H500i Case
  
  
• Asus ROG Maximus XI Hero Z390 Motherboard
  
  
• Corsair Hydro Series H150i Water Cooling
  
  ---
  
  
  Any other questions, feel free to leave them and I'll try to respond :)
  
  ---
  
  Edit: Thank you for the gold random kind redditor!

I would recommend [Auralex] (http://www.amazon.com/Auralex-Studiofoam-Inches-Wedgies-Charcoal/dp/B0002D05KA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1396896193&sr=8-1&keywords=acoustic+foam) if you don't have a tight budget.... but if you do, I'd go with [this kind] (http://www.amazon.com/2x12x12-BURGUNDY-CHARCOAL-Acoustic-Soundproofing/dp/B00ATP5KF6/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1396896193&sr=8-2&keywords=acoustic+foam). I have both types in my set up and they work quite wonderfully together. The colors are nice accents as well!

Also, you will want to pull your table out from the wall a bit... and make sure you have the monitor tweeters at an equilateral triangle with your ears!

Somewhere down the line you can invest in bass traps as well. [Here are some yoga blocks as well] (http://www.amazon.com/YogaAccessories-TM-Foam-Yoga-Brick/dp/B000OFBC12/ref=sr_1_7?s=exercise-and-fitness&ie=UTF8&qid=1396896353&sr=1-7&keywords=yoga+block). Just make sure they will adequately support your monitors (aka being large enough).

If you have any questions, pm me whenever.

Thanks for the reply.

I recently bought a pair of Audio Technica's, but playing through headphones just doesn't quite feel the same. The thing is, the amp simulating on the POD XT Live is pretty old, and you can really hear it when you play through headphones. The tones sound a lot better coming out of the monitors. I barely record, too. I just make guitar covers and upload them to YouTube for fun.

Wouldn't buying something like this and just pasting it on the wall somehow do the trick? Or is there more to it than that? I apologize if I'm coming off as a total noob, but I really am one lol. I've been living in this apartment for only a year and I sometimes don't even bother picking up my guitar because of my current setup. 2015 was a pretty frustrating year because of that.

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That is very very lean for a GOOD Audio system. Personally I don't like the typical computer (Logitech, Creative Audio, etc...) 2.1 speaker sets. If you want a good system get full sized bookshelf speakers like these -

Edifier R2000DB - Walnut - $250/pair -

https://www.amazon.com/Edifier-R2000DB-Bluetooth-Bookshelf-Speakers/dp/B01CDU3IAI/

5" bass driver, very good power, Analog and Optical In, Bluetooth capability, and a Remote Control.

The are more basic, but good quality Studio Monitors that would fit your needs.

The KRK Rokit 5 are very popular, but $299/pr but with fewer features -

https://www.amazon.com/KRK-RP5G3-NA-Generation-Powered-Monitor/dp/B00FX7MMRO/

Mackie MR5 MKII are also considered good at $299/pr -

https://www.amazon.com/Mackie-MR5mk3-5-Inch-Powered-Monitors/dp/B00EUISUGE/

In this style of speaker you want at least 5" (130mm) bass driver. Some are available in 6.5" and 8". But that is our decision to make.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p2pfwukoW2Y

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y7zWz6kKm4s

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1uhvI5HKos0

I'll try to answer your questions in one post [Referrals]:

>would you say that I need headphones to monitor what my sound is even though I can't wear them while actually i'm actually making videos?

Yes - you can do a sound check with your headphones on before you get in front of the camera. You can miss a lot of problems by just looking at meters.

> I found these https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N6ZJH96

OneOdio makes very popular headphones, but you can do better for about the same price. I recommend a $39.99 set of Senal SMH-500 headphones instead. They are more sensitive than the OneOdios (101 dB versus 110 dB) and Senal products have a 3 year warranty (versus 2 years for the OneOdio brand).

I have Senal SMH-500 and SMH-1000 headphones and they are a great value for the money.

> since the hn5 has a headphone jack I should need anything extra, right?

That is correct.

> the azden comes with everything that I need to hook it up to my recorder?

Correct again.

Again, hope this is helpful!

Hey man just wanted to say thank you for taking the time to respond with so much detail.


Your answer pointed me in the right direction and what I've found is that my mixer (Behringer 1202fx) only exports 1 channel. My understanding is that although I have 12 channels going into my mixer (that I can adjust, e.g. adjust gain on each) when it goes out of my mixer and into my mac, it's all one channel (this video helped me understand this: https://youtu.be/1VC1Dho7nh0). One of the next versions (Behringer 1204fx usb https://www.amazon.co.uk/Behringer-X1204USB-Xenyx-Input-Mixer/dp/B0039PPW60) looks like it would be able to record to 2 channels, but mine can't.


I had to bite the bullet and look into another option - either go for the 1204 (or another mixer with the 2 channel input) or an audio interface. It looks like the Focusright Scarlet 2i2 audio interface is a good option (https://www.amazon.co.uk/Focusrite-Scarlett-Audio-Interface-Tools/dp/B01E6T56EA). It records 2 channels, so in audacity I can record both mics on a separate channel. This seems worth it to me, because if someone speaks over the other or if someone starts coughing or their mic picks up noise or one person is louder than the other (and I don't pick this up when recording), I am assuming this means I can edit each mic's audio independently, so that when combined it's better quality.


If my understanding looks wrong, please let me know and thanks again for taking the time :)

Either the aforementioned Focusrite, or the Presonus Audiobox USB are both good choices. The Focusrite has more honest preamps, but lacks the midi connections that the Audiobox has. Both come with very good DAWs (The Focusrite comes with Ableton Live Lite, the Presonus comes with Studio One Artist), but you can also download the ShareWare Reaper if you prefer. DAW choice is like picking a sports team. People are passionate about their choices. For a mic, I'd look at one of these. It's an excellent SM-57 clone that some audio engineers prefer to the SM-57. I have a pile of them in my mic cabinet, and it's probably my most used mic. It's like a swiss-army mic. If I were limited to one, it would be this one.

I couldn't agree more with /u/SativaGanesh 's comment below. I'll add that when you start learning to record, your focus should be on signal flow, gain staging, microphone technique, and learning how to edit and mix audio. Until you have a handle on the basics, a tape machine won't be beneficial to you. And when you DO have a handle on the basics, consider getting an internship at an analogue studio. If you're sharp and likeable, you'll probably have an opportunity to learn how to use a tape machine and console.

Here's what I suggest for your home setup. You can get a perfectly usable interface for around $150. That apparently comes with Pro Tools, but Reaper is a full-featured DAW that sounds great and supports most plugin formats out there. It's $60 for a full license. Here is a perfectly adequate microphone made by Rode. (Or if you can spend $600 go for the K2, it's awesome.) These speakers are halfway decent and will get you started on the right foot.

Hi!

Congrats on venturing into filmmaking, I think you'll enjoy the process, especially as you move forward and have more resources available.

Based in that you're filming this all in one room, and it seems as though your actors will be the main focus, you can probably get away with using lavs instead of a boom for the dialogue.

Here's some more affordable options that plug directly into a phone for recording:

1. https://www.amazon.com/Professional-Microphone-Omnidirectional-Smartphones-Cancelling/dp/B016C4ZG74/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_267_bs_t_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=SRY6S3S5MRQHCRCVCHJJ
   
   
2. https://express.google.com/product/16207512241843047473_8115836838679463239_1057813?mall=WashingtonDC&directCheckout=1&utm_source=google_shopping&utm_medium=product_ads&utm_campaign=gsx&dclid=CNiX55y7ytYCFdgGNwodoosD-g
   
   For capturing the room audio, I'd reccomend getting a used sound recorder. As you mentioned, the Tascam DR-40, or the Zoom H4N, are both great choices.
   
   Best of luck and have fun!

Those are definitely some of the best value speakers I think you can get for a desktop system.

You definitely don't need to drill any holes for stands. You have a few options.

Auralex MoPads (If you buy the 4pk you'll get some extra inserts that will allow you to either angle them up to point them more towards your ear.)

Iso-Acoustics small desk stands. I'd recommend these even at their price. They work really well to decouple the speaker from your desk and the amount of adjustment you can do will work for any setup you use now and in the future. Read a few reviews and I think you'll justify the costs ...

Good luck.

Shure SM57s for snare and toms.
Shure Beta 52a for the kick.
Shure sells a pack of 3 SM57s and a Beta 52a with case and mounts at a great price: Shure DMK57-52 Drum Microphone Kit

If you are on a tighter budget, GSL makes a great 57 clone at a much better price: [ES-57]
(http://www.amazon.com/dp/B001W99HE8/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=2V28EB8MDJ41G&coliid=I2JVKE3SMLZA6O)

For overheads you are going to want the best condenser mics you can afford. I use and recommend Shure KSM32s. If those are outside of your budget, there are a lot of good suggestions in this thread on gearslutz.

The sound you get is going to depend much more on how you tune your drums and place your mics, and the room you record in, and less on the mics you use (although it will affect it somewhat).

Hey all,

I'm getting ready to go big on a microphone setup, but I want to get a few extra opinions on the hardware that I have selected to make sure it is both sufficient for each other as well as the best price to performance. I'm really looking for some GREAT quality but not needing something for full on production.

-----

Here is a list of the items and below is a screenshot of the cart if people don't want to click on the individual links.

Audient iD14

Shure SM7B

CL-1 Cloudlifter

RODE PSA1

LyxPro Balanced XLR Cable 6 ft

LyxPro Balanced XLR Cable 1.5 ft

-----

https://i.imgur.com/T08p76s.png

IMHO: A subwoofer isn't optional when it comes to dubstep. You'll be missing all the low-end (which let's be honest, is why we're all here) if you omit a decent sub from you set up. As far as amps (I call these receivers) go, you'd probably be best off visiting your local pawn shop or anywhere you can get pre-owned electronics and picking something up. I got mine for under $100CAD and it has power to spare. For ease of set-up I'd suggest finding something with dedicated subwoofer outputs on the back. As for speakers, these or these will do right by you. Personally I use this subwoofer, and it has the juice to have my entire house shaking. Wires are pretty much standard in my experience as long as you're talking about a simple home listening system. These wires would do fine for your needs. If you want a proper listening experience dont use bluetooth speakers, and dont skimp on a subwoofer.

Hope that helps, my dude!

I'm loving my DBX pre-amp processor that has a Compressor, De-Esser, Small range EQ but great for vocals and a Expander/Gate. If you check out my VODs you can hear how it works with someone who's not so yellie but more muttering like lol. I was using a new mic yesterday so I had to keep messing with the settings till I found the sweet spot.

Before the SM7B I was using yesterday I was using an AT2020 for all other streams.

Yeah I know these aren't REAL bass traps or broadband absorbers, but considering the benefit that this simple kit gives, its a pretty good value:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00TT7BGQM/

and
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B010GPFRUQ/

I made my own bass traps which outperform these and cost less. But if you were on a budget and wanted a noticable improvement, I would buy these.

The Audio-Technica ATR2100/AT2005/Samson Q2U are very good podcasting microphones, and are versatile by having both USB and XLR connections.

The Zoom H6 is a good recorder. If you want to save money, get a Behringer mixer (1-XLR, 2-XLR, 4-XLR) and a Zoom H1 to record with.

The Audio-Technica ATH-M30x or ATH-M40x are good headphones.

Get any pop filter that fits your price. A Neewer boom arm is OK for podcasting (that's what I use), but the next step up is a Blue Compass, Rode PSA-1, or Heil PL-2T.

The Neewer boom arm comes with a plastic shock mount.

Monoprice.com has pretty good quality cables for cheap, but price almost equals quality for audio cables.

Audacity is a good audio editor.

Check out Better Podcasting, The Audacity to Podcast, School of Podcasting, The Feed, and Podcasters' Roundtable for podcast advice. Pod Squad is a Discord server that I help moderate where you can also get more help from other podcasters.

Well here's where it depends on what you want to do with the recordings after the initial recording. If you aren't looking to mix and edit the individual instrument tracks afterwards, you could use the 8 mic inputs on your mixer, and output the audio to your pc via a usb interface like the Focusrite 2i2:
https://www.amazon.com/Focusrite-2i2-GENERATION-USB-Recording/dp/B005OZE9SA

Now miking exerything up: You've got Bass and keys which could easily be lined directly into the mixer. For vocals, you're looking for a straightforward dynamic micropohone, a common workhorse is the SM-58 or SM-57, now at around $100 this might be more than you are looking to spend, but then again, you can never go with a 58 or 57. If you wand a good budget clone, I'd look at the $35 GLS ES-57 https://www.amazon.com/GLS-Audio-Instrument-Microphone-ES-57/product-reviews/B001W99HE8/ref=cm_cr_dp_see_all_btm?ie=UTF8&showViewpoints=1&sortBy=recent
For guitar, again the industy workhorse is the SM-57, so again you could grab another ES-57, and move on to the Drums.
You've got 4 channels left, so You're probably going to want Kick, Snare, and 2 overheads.
Kick drum you probably want to go with something with a larger element, and while nothing extraordinary, Cad makes a couple kick mics for around 40 bucks https://www.amazon.com/CAD-Audio-KBM412-Microphone-Cardioid/dp/B0002D0Q7W/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1474769856&sr=8-1&keywords=Kick+drum+microphone
Snare, grab another ES-57, as an SM-57 would be the go to.
Overheads, If your mixer can supply phantom power, there's a plethora of small diameter condenser microphones to choose from. For $100 you can get a set of Monoprice condensers and while you're not going to blown away by the sound, for $100, they'll be more than enough in this situation. https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=600700

Add in 6 15' mic cables at 10 bucks a piece via monoprice https://www.monoprice.com/category?c_id=115&cp_id=11509&cs_id=1150902 - 4 1/4 cables for the bass, keys and to go from your mixer output to the audio interface and thats about it.

1 - Focusrite 2i2 - $125

3 - GMS ES-57 - $120

1 - Cad kick drum mic - $40

1 - Stereo Pair Monoprice condensers - $100

6 - Xlr microphone cables - $60

4 - 1/4 Cables - $30


Grand total $475.


With this, whatever comes into the mixer is what you're gonna get, so you'll need to make sure you have all your panning, eq, and levels set the way you want them, because aside from some post production eqing, that's pretty much what you're going to get. If you're looking for individual tracks for individual instruments, thats going to take an audio interface with at least 8 inputs, and probably set you back 400-500 on the low end.

I'd say just get one of these. It's a great interface for your computer as almost no computer soundcard can handle things like XLR/TRS connections and you're going to be using exactly those for those JBLs. It says ProTools but you can use Ableton or really any midi software as the Focusrite Scarletts are really popular and have a lot of support for both PC & MAC.

Also, if you're going to produce, either get a sub or get 8" monitors. You need the low end for bass, and headphones can't show you what a good system set up can. I know this isn't a music/producer sub, but I hate when people buy the expensive gear and it doesn't meet their needs. Considering it sounds like you're setting up a home studio, getting an interface and a good monitoring situation set up is crucial.

Edit: To answer your build question, I do think getting 32gbs of ram is a bit much unless you plan to do a bunch of things at once. Also, since you have a balls to the wall budget it seems, adding a boot ssd will help you get fast boot times out of programs like Ableton/ProTools. I'd say keep both HDs if you can. One can hold music projects and the other, games, music, & other documents.

Nope, it would absolutely be perfect. Get a Scarlett 2i2 to start you off with a really nice, but basic set-up.

You can gradually move on from there.

Even just buying a second microphone, like a dynamic mic for other applications (plug for a SM57 clone) would make your versitility unbeatable on a budget.

You will learn a ton, and achieve pretty great sound if you work hard.

I do couch coop stuff with 2 mics but can do up to 4.
Best solution is expensive ish and that's to get a mixer that will handle multiple mics and several inexpensive (but decent) dynamic mics.

Like 4 Pyle pro PDMic58s and a BEHRINGER XENYX X1204USB.

And don't forget to sound treat the room a little.

I have done a couple of things to minimize the noise coming from my DS916+. First, I have it sitting on the middle shelf of one of these types of racks with another Mini-ITX server on the top shelf, a USFF server next to it, and a UPS on the bottom rack. I had thought it was part of the problem initially causing vibrations that caused increased noise so I endeavored to isolate the vibrations from the machines themselves. But I first started with the Velcro fix I found in another Synology thread here on Reddit. That actually helped quite a bit but I wanted to do more with the other devices so I bought some sound proofing foam on Amazon and cut individually sized portions for each device and placed the device on top of it. Overall I am pretty pleased with the reduction in noise. I can now here the drives themselves working which is a whole other issue but I did mitigate quite a bit of sound overall.

Good luck and hope this helps!

Hello!
I am personally using a mic with a cardiod option and I found I was getting a lot of echo as well. I'm in a carpeted room with my desk up against a wall.
After a bought a windscreen:
https://www.amazon.com/Windscreen-Audio-Technica-Other-Microphones/dp/B00I8XYTNK
and a pop filter:
http://www.guitarcenter.com/KM/Pop-Killer-Double-Layer-Pop-Filter.gc
I found that my audio quality was quite a bit better. My girlfriend and I started our channels close to the same time and she is using sound proofing foam on top as well:
https://www.amazon.com/2x12x12-BURGUNDY-CHARCOAL-Acoustic-Soundproofing/dp/B00ATP5KF6
After she started using the foam her audio sounds great. (I'll buy some one of these days)
If you're curious to see how the sound has changed in my videos let me know and I can send you a link to a video I made before I got the pop filter and windscreen and one after. Good luck!

Oh in that case I would switch up it

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Interface - The one you had didn't have Phantom Power (48V), which is required for 90% of condenser microphones, I wouldn't buy an interface without it. Focusrite is going to offer better preamps, expandability, and is just a better offering. Yes this adds +$20 but if I were to compare value add I would say the Focusrite interface adds $100 if not more over the Line6.

https://www.amazon.com/Focusrite-Scarlett-Audio-Interface-Tools/dp/B01E6T50LY/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=Focusrite+Scarlett+2i4+USB+Audio+Interface&qid=1565645877&s=gateway&sr=8-3

Microphone - while that AT2020 is a nice microphone, I wouldn't be an audio nerd if I didn't recommend consider trading it out for a Shure SM58. It's a rite of passage mic, it's going to sound good out of the box, but you can learn how to make it sound even better. It's also going to pick up less unwanted noise (mom yelling that hotpockets are ready, cops bursting in your room when you been swatted.

https://www.amazon.com/Shure-SM58-LC-Cardioid-Dynamic-Microphone/dp/B000CZ0R42/ref=sxin_4_osp1-d1fabffa_cov?ascsubtag=d1fabffa-c2ec-4fa0-ae31-2e07a178f49c&creativeASIN=B000CZ0R42&cv_ct_id=amzn1.osp.d1fabffa-c2ec-4fa0-ae31-2e07a178f49c&cv_ct_pg=search&cv_ct_wn=osp-search&keywords=sure+sm58&linkCode=oas&pd_rd_i=B000CZ0R42&pd_rd_r=a40496d4-0539-4f37-a1f5-06c41f3afb62&pd_rd_w=zLA9w&pd_rd_wg=YvsDi&pf_rd_p=c501273b-119a-4fc9-ad78-eda5006b0be9&pf_rd_r=K79XXEN93XVP9C4Z5Q2R&qid=1565646518&s=gateway&tag=popularscience_os-20#customerReviews

​

The boom arm you have will work with any mic so you leave that.

​

If your budget is strict here's a bundle that has the Scarlett Solo and the AT2020, which has solid reviews.

https://www.amazon.com/Focusrite-Scarlett-Interface-Bundle-Microphone/dp/B07V4MNBMX/ref=sr_1_10?keywords=Focusrite+Scarlett+solo&qid=1565646973&s=gateway&sr=8-10

If you go with the interface, your speakers should be "studio monitors", i.e. something that doesn't color the sound with "bitchin' bass" or whatever the cool kids are using on their 7.1 surround sound gaming rigs.

Same goes for the headphones. AT has some options that are a good bang for your buck.

For speakers that get loud but sound great at any volume I can highly recommend a pair of Yamaha HS5's, but you can certainly get decent monitors for less.

The Scarlett is a good choice. Spring for the 2i4 over a 2i2, because the PAD button will come in handy, allowing you to roll down the decibels without affecting the tone. Key if your guitar has hot pickups.

For that budget, you're gonna have a hard time getting a really good setup going. Not to worry though because you don't need a ton of money to have a decent thing going. First, I wouldn't get a USB device for any reason. There's no reason to limit yourself to whatever cheap electronics they threw in that thing. So that leaves us with needing a mic, a cable, and a mic preamp/interface solution. For the mic, I would pick a widely used favorite of the Shure SM57. It'll do the job fine of recording your voice and acoustic guitar. Sure it's not ideal, but your budget won't even let us get one. We'll have to look at even cheaper alternatives. Did someone mention the GLS Audio ES-57? It's ridiculously cheap, decently built (mine has survived a bunch of falls,) and best of all, it sounds almost exactly the same as a Shure SM-57. Go ahead and grab a $10 XLR cable, since that's about all you can afford at this point. If it breaks, you'll have to scrounge up another $10 in the future, but we worry about that for now.

Onto the interface/preamp unit. I honestly don't know that much about low end interfaces, but I can recommend the Scarlett 2i2. I have a Saffire 6 USB which uses the same Focusrite mic preamps, and they sound pretty damn good in my opinion. It's outside of your budget new, but you can probably find a used one without a problem. If you can't find a Scarlett 2i2 used, try looking up the Saffire 6 USB. The Saffire 6 USB is basically the same thing as a Scarlett 2i4, but with a few more features. It's discontinued as far as I know, but there are plenty on Ebay I'm sure. As far as other alternatives, you're on your own.

Now that you have a mic, cable, and preamp/interface, all you need is a DAW like Reaper and you're all set for recording.

Edit: no idea why I'm being down voted for this. Please provide some constructive criticism before just down voting without providing a reason.

Thanks so much for the info! I noticed that I can get a used Focusrite 2i4 for about half the price on amazon, but it is listed as the "old version". Is there any significant difference in the old and new version?

This is the one:
https://www.amazon.com/Focusrite-Scarlett-2i4-USB-Interface/dp/B009B15N0Q/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1482653729&sr=8-2&keywords=Focusrite+2i4

Also, what is your thought on something like the Yeti mics that have a built in dac? I use one mostly for voice and it sounds great to me. But it a focusrite with rode mic going to just be world away better?

This is what I was considering: https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Yeti-USB-Microphone-Silver/dp/B002VA464S/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1482653965&sr=8-2&keywords=yeti+mic

Okay, so probably a small USB or Thunderbolt interface with a couple built-in mic preamps and monitoring via headphone and 2.0 speakers.

I like Focusrite's interfaces - very good mic preamps with hardly any noise, 24/192 recording and playback, and very low latency. the two I would suggest are the Scarlett 2i4 ($200) and the Clarett 2Pre ($500).

The Scarlett 2i4 is a pretty "no frills" interface - USB, 2 inputs (1/4"/XLR combos with phantom power), and monitoring/output via USB, headphone, RCA out, or line out (to powered studio monitors). It also has MIDI i/o, if that matters. It's compatible with just about every DAW or multimedia editing software out there.

The Clarett 2Pre is the Scarlett on steroids. It communicates over Thunderbolt, has 2 even better mic pres that include an analog model of Focusrite's legendary ISA mic preamp (which is great for VO), even lower latency, and is expandable via ADAT optical link to 10 inputs.

TBH, the Scarlett is probably more than enough, but the Clarett's excellent preamps will get you very close to pro/studio VO results if paired with an equally-good mic. As far as playback, mixing, and monitoring, I didn't notice much of a difference when I upgraded from the 2i4 to the 2Pre because I monitor and play back at 24/96 most of the time (though I could probably push the Clarett to 24/192 and it would be fine). I think either one paired with good studio headphones or powered monitors should work.

I use anchor its awesome, the support team is always really helpful and quick, plus they post almost everywhere.

If you already have a mac book tho you can record right into it. if your budget is around 1000 you can get some nice stuff. My set up rn is just a zoom H6 and two audio technica mics and a pop. If you want a nice headset thats not too expensive I like these.

The zoom is nice because it can double as a mixer and it portable, the mic can plug into your computer through usb so your not just stuck recording into the zoom.

Hey, I'm looking to buy the JBL 305s for sale on Amazon today. https://www.amazon.com/JBL-305PMKII-Powered-Studio-Monitor/dp/B077N2GQXC
I want to pair them with a turntable and also have the ability to play music from a phone or computer via a 3.5 mm input without switching cables constantly.

Would something like the Mackie big knob monitor switcher be a good choice to switch inputs and control volume? Or would going with a more traditional receiver and passive speaker setup be a more expensive but better choice?
https://www.musiciansfriend.com/pro-audio/mackie-big-knob-passive-monitor-controller/j49165000000000?cntry=us&source=3WWMWXGP&gclid=Cj0KCQiA597fBRCzARIsAHWby0G-V7o4TGThzlno4Sr-vVLEXdk9NW0ydvlKt3Erlv8BX20Wu0TqFaIaArPmEALw_wcB

I'm also looking for a turntable but this JBL deal is what I want to buy first, and what I need feedback on if active monitors are the right choice for me.

The space is a living room that opens into a dining room and a kitchen behind it.

Thank you!

Thanks for the information.
I've read shaky things about the 2i2, but I don't have enough knowledge to know just how bad/applicable to my case they are.
Could you tell me in detail why you'd prefer that Behringer audio interface over the 2i2? They both look great and in my price range.

Also, could you recommend some studio monitors to works as my cabinets?
Do you think a pair of PreSonus Eris E4.5 would be good for djent/modern metal, jazz, classical tones?

I'm using a Strandberg Boden 7 Standard if that helps.
https://www.amazon.com/PreSonus-Eris-E4-5-Powered-Monitors/dp/B00GP56OYA

You need a proper preamp because the rode procaster needs about 32 dB of gain. Your interface should not be used as a preamp......

I have the same mic but mine goes to a dbx 286s that has a preamp and processor where I add the needed gain then feed it into my mixer where the gain knob is not used.

Try getting a cloudlifter from amazon as a cheaper fix which will add the needed gain before it goes into your interface.

Links to a cloudlifter and dbx 286s preamp/processor linked below

Cloudlifter - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MYNBPZS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_1Fl0CbAA8JG9J

$70 more and get

Dbx 286s - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004LWH79A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_aHl0Cb9C8GW7M

A good affordable mic for vox and guitar is a Shure SM57. They make versions specific for vox and for guitar, but they are pretty good for both for the money.

​

It's a solid industry standard.

​

But depending on your interface you may want to also pick up a Cloudlifter or a Dynamite to get a better signal.

​

Lots of people do just fine with the Shure SM57. I'd start there if I were you.

I get this problem, because I like to run my Aguilar head without a cab into my mixer or audio interface and plug the headphones in there. At least, that's how I can practice silently with some reasonable sense of my tone, since that's the head I play through live. I usually run my pedals on this setup, too, so that's more gear I'm tied to / tangled up in.

When I'm focused on running sets, though, and only worried about my hands (and not so much the guitar's controls or my amp tone) I use a vox amplug. It's the v2 bass model, if anyone is interested, I've recommended / discussed it in this sub before. The tone is acceptable, but the real benefit is that this battery powered unit plugs into the bass, and my headphones into it - no other gear required. So I'm only tethered to the instrument and not to the board or my amp head. Plus it's cheap and the battery life is pretty darn good. The tone and beats to play along with aren't really for me, but might suit some players.

At least, that's what works for me.

Watched both videos and I enjoyed being invited into your life! Seems very honest and not forced, I enjoy authenticity.

My only training outside of high school has been in audio engineering, so my only critique would be to suggest possibly investing a small amount of money in a microphone. It's not only to hear you better, but to cut down on the "white noise" in the background. Makes it better for headphone users, all around.

You can find lavalier mics (the ones that clip to your clothing) for remarkably affordable prices, this is just the first one I found from googling: https://www.amazon.com/Professional-Microphone-Omnidirectional-Smartphones-Cancelling/dp/B016C4ZG74

Best of luck with your new channel!

I can find only fragments of the other thread you're referring to, but the TS-to-RCA cable is legit. It's not an adapter or coupler or anything like that. It certainly won't be the best connection option, but again, it works (it wouldn't damage the audio interface or the speaker), and it would cost far less than a pair of new monitors.

I looked at those speakers you have (or had). They're these? Those are more like bookshelf speakers, not active studio monitors. And $400 for the pair? You can do better than that for less money.

The JBL 305P monitors are another popular choice. They cost $150 each, and taxes/shipping could push the cost of the pair past your $300 budget. But both the Presonus and JBL monitors are fine choices.

You should really consider one decent mic for each person. And you should consider carefully before locking yourself into the USB ghetto.

I'd really suggest a recorder and a few decent dynamic mics unless you were planning on recording a Skype guest or something similar.

The Zoom H6 ($399) would let you just press record and then you can remove the SD card and import the four XLR tracks (and even a couple ambient tracks if you like or replace the supplied mics with two more XLR ports for a total of six). It also does allow you to act as an audio interface straight into your DAW as you see fit. But honestly, why would you? Unless you needed to mix in a Skype call or something similar it would be simpler.

http://www.amazon.com/Zoom-H6-Six-Track-Portable-Recorder/dp/B00DFU9BRK/

The default inexpensive dynamic mics that do a decent job are the Audio-Technica ATR2100-USB ($60) and AT2005-USB ($50) or the Samson Q2U ($38-52, the price varies), all essentially identical mics with the 2100 having a Limited lifetime warranty. They do a decent job of reducing crosstalk and ambient noise, especially for the price. All have USB or XLR interfaces.

http://www.amazon.com/Audio-Technica-ATR2100-USB-Cardioid-Dynamic-Microphone/dp/B004QJOZS4/

http://www.amazon.com/Audio-Technica-AT2005USB-Cardioid-Dynamic-Microphone/dp/B007JX8O0Y/

http://www.amazon.com/Samson-Handheld-Microphone-Headphones-Accessories/dp/B001R747SG/

The Samson's price has been varying from $38 to $52 of recent. For the money they sound good and do a decent job of reducing the ambient noise. Plugged into a Zoom H6 they work well (never used the Q2U myself)

!

These would absolutely help if your apartment is echo-ey. It just depends how nicely you're trying to treat your room. Auralex makes some professional grade panels that will end up costing you a bunch, but you'd really only need those if you were doing some serious recording. If you're just wanting to cheaply treat your room a little then I'd check out something like this. They look cool and they'll help with the reverb in your apartment a little bit, but the change won't be super noticeable. I mainly just don't want people buying these thinking they will be able to watch porn on full blast without their roommates hearing. They definitely won't sound proof anything.

So I produced this series and I was shocked at how high quality the stream from Skype could be with a wired internet connection.

I simply set up a webcam in the living room of an apartment, placed a 70d directly on top of that for eye line, and ran the audio from the computer to an earpiece.

On the computer side, I used Open Broadcaster set to record the highest resolution possible (on a 1080 screen).

Everything was edited together in Premiere

The audio was something of a crapshoot. Sometimes it was great, sometimes it was garbage. Depends on the machine they are speaking on, but if you send them something like this, you might get a better result.

Most important thing I have found is a very strong internet connection, and a powerful machine to do your recording on.

Nah, hand size won't mess you up. A lot of people say "My hands are too small for bass", when in reallity hand size doesn't affect too much (there are a lot of bass exercises that will allow you to properly extend your hand on the fretboard)

The Hal Leonard method is a pretty good book, go with it.

​

Also, if you're not getting an amp I reccommend to get a Amplug or something

Dynamics mics can be good with that kinda stuff because they don't pick up a lot of the other noise that's going on. The flip side is they're quiet, if you use a mic like the 58 you may find yourself wanting a hotter signal, you can remedy that with something like the Cloudlifter which is used frequently in conjecture with the Shure SM7B (probably the most popular mic for voiceover stuff).

If you're going for a top tier professional setup the Cloudlifter+SM7B is probably where you'll end up anyway so it might be worth it to just go there now. The AT2035 you linked is another Condenser mic and will be pretty much as sensitive as your Yeti, that's kinda their mo.

If you're strictly wanting a mixer for the very basics of streaming, then I'd honestly recommend using some sort of virtual mixing software. Most users would disagree, but I think that reason is because a lot of streamers jump to using actual mixers because that's what they "hear other streamers doing" and they also want to appear more professional. But some sort of virtual solution would be my first recommendation. If you actually want to start implementing and building upon your setup other than the basics though, then obviously that wouldn't be a smart decision.

However if you really want a mixer, then I agree that a Behringer would be the most logical solution in my opinion. Most models give the user a lot of control and functionality, without a hefty price point. I personally have the X1204USB I use for recording music, and sometimes streaming. I wouldn't think someone only streaming would need that high of a model as I don't really suspect you needing that many inputs / control. That being said, you could possibly look into the Q802USB.

A very important thing to note is that you need to remember that mixers are typically used to convert analog to digital (while I do realize there are methods / adapters to create a digital to digital solution), so the fact that your microphone is a USB essentially means it's not going to plug into that mixer. You would need to invest into a standard condenser microphone that uses an XLR connector. Some might recommend purchasing some sort of USB to XLR adapter, but I've never found that to make much sense as it's regression.

... So that the designers can match the unique characteristics of the drivers in the enclosure with non-linear responses of a network of caps, varistors/log pots, inductors, etc. in a controlled way, for the user to tune the speaker to the listening space and equipment with better results and less effort.

This $100 "Sonart 10" 300W Powered Active Subwoofer" calls the adjustment "frequency":

https://www.amazon.com/Sonart-Powered-Subwoofer-Front-Firing-Surround/dp/B07KN3MQKZ

This $150 JBL LSR 305 calls the adjustment "Boundary EQ" and "HF Trim"

www.amazon.com/JBL-305PMKII-Powered-Studio-Monitor/dp/B077N2GQXC/

The $1,250 Verus III Grand Tower Speaker has an option called the "treble mod" which is probably a $3 resistor and/or capacitor in a $$-$$$ plastic case:

https://www.aperionaudio.com/products/verus-iii-grand-tower-speaker

The $3,600 Dynaudio Xeo 30 Floorstanding Speakers have adjustable active digital crossovers:

https://www.dynaudio.com/home-audio/xeo/xeo-30

Several of the $$$$-$$$$$ Infinity IRS speakers use an outboard device dedicated to adjusting low-pass and high pass filters, and other related settings:

https://tmraudio.com/product/tmr-1172

There are also plenty of good speakers that don't have on-board adjustable crossovers, into which the user can throw whatever EQed signal is desired.

First off, make sure you have a decent soundcard. My laptop's soundcard is balls so I use an external audio interface -the difference is huge. If your soundcard isn't up to snuff, look at grabbing something like this. You can get them used (or other versions) for cheaper, and they're a good utility to have around. You can also look for simple USB DAC (Digital to Analog Converter).

For speakers, if you want really good sound, look for powered speakers, they have built in amps to drive them so that you don't need to worry about an external amp hanging out on your desk. I use reference monitors, these have an excellent frequency range and soundstage that's hard to produce with a two-way desktop speaker otherwise. These are what I use currently, and you'd be hard pressed to find something cheaper that can produce the same sound. Also of note are the Rockit 5's at about the same price point. These are pretty future proof, if that's your thing. The next step up from a setup like this would be a sizable chunk of money more.

Of course, this is just my opinion, so take it with a grain of salt and all that. This focuses largely on clarity of sound, frequency range, and small footprint at this specific price range. There are certainly other setups that use subwoofers, forgo DACs, etc.

This setup will, at the very least, blow the Klipsch speakers you have listed out of the proverbial water, but the extra cost is there. If you have the money, I'd buy better speakers now, rather than upgrade in the future when you decide yours aren't doing it for you anymore.

I wouldnt get either. I would go for something with better, more accurate sound like....

https://www.amazon.co.uk/M-Audio-BX5-D2-Production-Pair/dp/B005F3H6Q8/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1496239879&sr=8-5&keywords=studio+monitors

or
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Presonus-Eris-E4-5-active-monitor/dp/B00GP56OYA/ref=sr_1_10?ie=UTF8&qid=1496239879&sr=8-10&keywords=studio+monitors

Or better yet stretch your budget to 250 and pick up something like....

https://www.amazon.co.uk/M-Audio-BX8-D2-Professional-Production/dp/B005F3H6MC/ref=sr_1_1?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1496240238&sr=1-1&keywords=studio+monitors

These will definitely play low and sound a lot better than the mackies listed. You have to get into their true studio lines before they really sound good.

KRK's are good because you can find them used for cheap online due to their popularity. Yamaha HS series is well respected and has a flatter response, will probably translate better on other systems.

But I've been seeing fantastic reviews on the JBL monitors, I'd check these out aswell.
https://www.amazon.com/JBL-305PMKII-Powered-Studio-Monitor/dp/B077N2GQXC/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1543356952&sr=8-3&keywords=jbl+monitor

The six inch model also happens to be on sale.

Hi, New subscriber here. I have a basic setup and want to upgrade some of it. I have a Uturn turntable, Orbit basic, a Rolls Preamp and a old Sony receiver that I run TV, game system, apple tv, ect... into.

My question is if I have roughly $500 to spend would I be better off getting powered speakers dedicated for the turntable or $500 for a dedicated amp and new speakers for the turntable or $500 for new speakers to hook up to existing receiver.

I appreciate the help and feedback. Thanks!

plug the headphones into the interface input and see if one of them works as a dynamic mic. it should. (headphones in reverse = microphone). PS there is a ton of XLR dynamic mics available for ~$20. SM57/58 copies. You might look up GLS microphones. Cost a couple bucks more, goods review, well made. I think the models are ES57 and ES58.

PS Why does your Tonor brand mic have a trs 3.5mm 1/8" connector. What is that about? Why the third wire? That is some pretty questionable looking format, looks like a video camera format. Someone else posted about this format and had to get a specialised adapter cable to split off a working feed.

> I think it should be pretty much plug&play,

Might want to re-think that. Audio world likes XLR for mics and direct box output to mixers, interfaces, etc. Take it up to 4.5 star reviews.

Here's what I'd suggest (as podcaster with ten years experience). If you can afford it buy a hardware recorder. The Zoom H6 has four inputs, and each one can support phantom power. It'll do multichannel recording on its own - no laptop required, and is infinitely more reliable than any software solution. Then buy four cheap as chips mic (e.g.: something like this) - whatever kind you like. If you stick at podcasting you can upgrade the mics later, but the Zoom will still be an excellent recorder / preamp, and will stand you in good stead for years (as well as being mobile). If you want to hear sound quality of this solution check this out this episode of my podcast from a couple of months back.

Hey there, I was told to post my question here, so here it is.

What are some good alternatives to the Audioengine A5+ speakers? Under 400 dollars.

I like the audioengines because they're small and they have a nice classy reserved look to them. But I hear they aren't the best and I could do better, for cheaper.
It's been suggested I pick up the Rokits over here:
http://www.amazon.com/KRK-RP5G3-NA-Generation-Powered-Monitor/dp/B00FX7MMRO/ref=pd_cp_MI_1
They're much cheaper than the Audioengines. The thing is that they're hideous. The yellow ruins them for me.
Also the Audioengines seem to come with all the cables, a remote and a front volume knob. Not sure the Rokits have any of that.
Alternatives would be within 400 dollars. Preferably less.
Unless I pick up an amp and bookshelf speakers, but again, I have no idea what's good.
Note I'm not looking for any big boomy bass. I just want the music to be clear, and sound much better than what I've heard before. Which have been a pair of Beats my brother bought me (I know they are overrated, but he gets a huge discount on them).
I also know that Audioengines are desktop monitors, but I'd be using them to fill a small living room kitchen combo (16' - 2" x 18' - 8"). Source is a turntable. Maybe the occassional iPod or laptop.

Hello! I have a noob question for my setup that probably isn't relevant enough to warrant its own post but it might be simple enough that you could answer real quick.

I just bought these studio monitors:
https://www.amazon.com/Mackie-CR-CR3-Reference-Multimedia/dp/B00KVEIY4E and have the top left L and R inputs connected to my Scarlett 2i4 audio interface (https://www.amazon.com/Focusrite-Scarlett-2i4-USB-Interface/dp/B009B15N0Q) in the balanced inputs 1 and 2 on the back right with TRS cables, but now I don't know what to do to actually be able to get my computer to "recognize" them and use them in my DAW or otherwise be able to control them through my audio interface. The monitors themselves work fine because I can still use them with the auxiliary cable plugged directly into my laptop, but that is a temporary fix because then I can't use my audio interface to control them. No idea what to do and I feel so dumb!

Any help would be huge. I'm using a PC with Windows 10 and my DAW is Reason 10 if that helps at all. Thanks!

best bang for buck, without a lot of overhead




Throw in one of these and youre good

Personally these are what I use, but I had them prior to getting the rift, it jsut worked out nice. They fit over the rift PERFECTLY

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07CDZD8B7/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It's odd because I find the modmic4 to be a bit bass heavy for my voice.

AT2020 is very popular as is ATR-2500. This seems like a good starter pack though I haven't heard that mic personally. Pick up a mic boom and pop filter as well. Room acoustics can play a bit to it too, if you want to improve the sound from there look into a mic shield, though I'd go the DIY route, from there the sky is the limit with room treatment and an empty wallet.

Hit youtube and search best USB microphone and go from there. There's tons of videos.

These should help a little bit, if you don’t have them already. Also, the less surface area your speakers have to the floor, the better - less surface for low freqs to travel through. Speaker stands on another soft material would help.

Then some bass traps and iso pads too. As mentioned bass is tough to isolate, but the more absorbing material the better.

I saw the comment about having her check it out, if it’s possible to hear it from their space that’d help your perspective too, and possible defense. I’m super sensitive to bass, and can sympathize with her, but have also had to deal with noisy neighbors with no solution. Just gotta deal with it.

It depends on the size of the room, your vocal range, the materials the walls, floor, and ceiling are made of etc... Generally speaking, right behind the mic is the best place to position panels because early reflections bounce and generate even more destructive interference on the recording by generating secondary and tertiary reflections, if you have the budget, a reflection shield is likely a good place to start or if you have a closet with clothes in it, that can also be used to "dampen" reflections.

Example of a reflection shield: Reflection shield on Amazon

The sound cloud link will do, but, I'd recommend just recording a cover of something you like with backing if you can (You can buy backing tracks to a lot of tracks on iTunes)

Make sure not to get too close to your mic btw, the proximity effect can be really bad. 20-15cm or 6-8in is usually the sweet spot for a natural vocal sound in a cardioid large-diaphragm mic like yours.

I don’t know all the tricks about amping a bass, but I use this and I love it! It’s perfect for my use in my apartment and I can bring it anywhere easily.

First of all, thank you so much for such a helpful and detailed answer! I wasn't expecting this kind of awesome comments from everyone!

About the virtual instruments, I was thinking that I would really get inspired if I bought the expensive ones, but you are absolutely right. I'm just starting and probably should try learning everything with the free tools that are available (which don't sound that bad actually). I'll check out everything you recommended, including the audio interface. I just have one question about that. I'm about to buy a new digital piano (This is one of the reasons I started to take interest in the computer compatibility), and since (as you said) those have MIDI ports, should I avoid this interface and buy this one instead, since the first one doesn't appear to be compatible with MIDI? Sorry if this is a very obvious question. I'm a real newbie to this fascinating world and I would really want to make the right decisions, especially since I'm about to spend on a piano already and have limited money for this project (at least for now).

Mic stand

Pros

• Can be used anywhere, even when you are not at a desk
  
• Is not attached to desk so any vibrations from you hitting the desk are not transferred.
  
  Cons
  
  
• Vibrations from the floor will be transferred.
  
• May be harder to position around your desk to get the mic where you want it to be. Harder to adjust.
  
• Can be knocked over, which can damage your mic.
  
  Mic arm
  
  Pros
  
  
• Easier to adjust to get the mic exactly where you want it to be. Can easily be moved out of the way when not in use.
  
• Vibrations from your floor will not be transferred (unless they also vibrate your desk).
  
• More stable than a cheap floor stand.
  
• Mic can't be knocked over onto the floor, potentially breaking it.
  
  Cons
  
  
• Vibrations from desk will be transferred.
  
• Must be mounted to a desk (unless it was other mounting options).
  
• Some desks do not have the lip necessary to mount with a clamp.
  
• Can be difficult to position sometimes.
  
  Personally I prefer the boom arms that attach to your desk. I had a cheap Neewer one for a while and then bought a Heil HB-1, which I definitely recommend. The Rode PSA-1 is a good choice as well, and botha re a little over $100 or so. There is also the On Stage Stand which is nice because it's heavy and the arm doesn't get in the way of your monitor, but it might get in the way of your keyboard and mouse and be harder to position. If you are getting a floor mic stand the ones with the heavy round base are nice because they don't fall over as easy and absorb some of the vibrations, but they are also more expensive and are hard to find with a boom arm.

I have a Denon AVR 1803. Because most new DVD and Blu-Ray discs do not work with this receiver anymore you can get it on ebay for less that $100 shipped and it has a phono input. You dont have to go with this unit specifically but there are many receivers like this on the second hand market. You can also get any receiver with a line in and add This: http://www.amazon.com/rolls-VP29-Phono-Preamp/dp/B0002BG2R2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00

If you want to go new I think Checkerdamic has a great recommendation with that Onkyo.

RE320 is a dynamic microphone and does not need phantom power.

You don't need a cloud lifter at all but a dedicated preamp hurt nobody. See here

For a mixer, the MG10XU is a great choice. But saving money is always fun, so you should check out this which is essentially the same mixer with less channels. If you aren't using more than 2 inputs on the 10XU no point in buying it.

quick edit: if you do end up purchasing a DBX 286s, there's nearly no point in buying the mixer. You'd have better luck investing in an audio interface such as a Mackie Onyx Blackjack or Scarlett 2i2

You might be best off picking up a field recorder like the Zoom H6, and using Reaper. With $400 you're going to have a hard time getting a quality interface, mics, and a daw, but I think the setup I mentioned would get you started nicely with the added benefit of being able to record anywhere very easily.

Everyone else seems to have covered the basics about the answers to your questions so far. Might I offer some advice, then?

Most of your problems seem to come from you living in an upstairs apartment (at least on the second floor, if not on the top floor), with people below (and possibly above) you, with the sound transferring down through the ceiling. I know you said that you invested in sound dampening casters for your piano, but it doesn't sound as if they worked; I know from playing violin (and having my sister play the drums) that these dampeners only dull music. They don't silence it completely, so your neighbours will still be able to hear you practice. Would it be possible to work out a compromise with your landlord to transfer your lease to a ground-floor apartment, and then use a dedicated room in that apartment as a practice room (complete with you putting up soundproof tiling like this along the walls and ceiling? If you take those steps (ground floor apartment + soundproof tiles), your neighbours should barely hear your practice.

Apartment living is all about compromises. People who can't stand hearing footsteps above them have to learn to look for top-floor apartments. People in general have to learn not to be jerks (i.e., not hammering nails into walls at 3AM, etc), and further have to learn that others in the building do have different schedules (and so might be doing laundry at 10PM at night, for example). People who practice musical instruments have to learn to soundproof their practice spaces, which... in the case of heavy instruments, like pianos and harps, may include having a solid ground underneath them if sound-casters don't cut it. If this isn't possible in your current place and you do end up having to move, it's something you'll want to keep in mind while looking at new places...

:Edit:: Subject/verb agreement are hard, y'all

I like what the 57 does to the mids on a snare. A flatter mic on a guitar cab is nice, but the 57 will usually work fine for me. If you do want a flatter mic, don't fuck with your good 57, get another flatter mic! Something like the ES-57 works great and it's cheap as hell.

My only experience with this being a problem was using Windows XP and an Akai mpk49.

Using just straight usb there was considerable latency. So I bought a midiman 2x2 and used an old school midi cable, and everything was great.

I have a much newer keyboard and I'm now on MacOs, and I haven't had any problems with midi over usb (in other words no old school midi cables).

Hope this helps, but if you do have problems with usb to midi, I'd try a midi man (even though it uses usb as well it seems the drivers are better).

If I were you I'd definitely get an interface with old school midi, just in case.

If you ever expand your set up it'll be there.

edit: Regardless, get a dedicated audio interface, it will make a world of difference.

I'd get this one: https://www.amazon.com/Focusrite-Scarlett-Audio-Interface-Tools/dp/B01E6T50LY

You might want to look into headphone amps. They won't replace your regular amp, but they are inexpensive, and great for when you want to practice without disturbing others.

For example this one. I have an older model and I'm am happy with that. There are also other makers.

It does look great for such a small space. I do have some suggestions to make it better.

First the mirror on the back wall will make the entire room light up when you're watching a movie. It might be better to cover that up or have some sort of shade you can pull over it.

Secondly I have a feeling there is quite a bit of acoustic issues with sound bouncing off the walls. It may not be a bad idea to invest into some acoustic panels that adhere to the wall. Maybe something similar to this: http://www.amazon.com/2x12x12-BURGUNDY-CHARCOAL-Acoustic-Soundproofing/dp/B00ATP5KF6

Overall nice use of the space!

I personally use [these] (https://www.amazon.com/OneOdio-Adapter-Free-Headphones-Professional-Telescopic/dp/B01N6ZJH96) headphones. They can let you hear two audio sources at once, so both phone and switch audio, or PC/laptop and switch audio combined. I don't use discord while playing on my switch but if I did, these would be pretty handy I imagine. I only bought these because my other pair of cans were wearing out but they're pretty good sounding too.

When I go all hardware, I used to record to the Tascam DP-008EX and then bounce the track to my Tascam 424.

Recording to tape can sound different depending on the type of music you are recording and how you mix and level the individual tracks. For reference, here are 3 tracks I recorded to cassette:

• Angband
  
• 7h22
  
• Snow
  
  These days, I use the Zoom H6 pretty exclusively for my hardware recordings (because I can do overdubs and record ambient sounds with the microphone). If you are looking for a hardware device for your recordings, anything from the Zoom R line you might like. And if you have any interest in the cassette sound, I am sure you can find some cheap(er) options than online around you area. Check thrift stores and Craigslist.
  
  Also, your 2 tracks are nice. Keep writing music!

If you want to manage 3-4 inputs, you will be better off getting an AVR. Accessories4less has really good prices and options.

An AVR will let you switch between multiple sources - whether they are HDMI video sources (gaming for example, or Roku) or digital audio sources, or analog audio sources. Besides this, an AVR will also amplify the signal, and also has an inbuilt DAC, so you can hook up passive speakers that are a lot less expensive than powered speakers. For example, you could hook it up to Pioneer BS22 bookshelf speakers for $130, or buy the FS52 floorstanders for $250 a pair (in which case you will not need a separate subwoofer)

Most entry level AVRs will not have a phono preamp. Assuming your TT does not have an inbuilt phono, you will likely need to buy a separate one. You can buy a Rolls VP29 for $50 from Amazon, or if you want to spend more, you could buy Schiit Mani or the Pro-Ject Phono Box - both sell for $130.

AVR plus speakers plus phono - you could still pull this off for under $500 and get decent sound quality. You can also look at used AVRs - they can often be had for half price or less (especially if they are slightly older - as AVRs are all about latest and greatest features - so now, AVRs that do not support 4k will sell for steep discounts). Look at usaudiomart for example.

Check their website, there may be some software you can get there. Also, using a muff or pop filter can help to reduce the background noise.

Another thing is that you have a condenser microphone and it functions differently than a dynamic mic. Here is a Youtube video about the differences: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y01N_L1VA4I The part you want to pay attention to is after 2:14 but the first of the video is a good education into the actual differences.

Lastly, if you are using it for streaming or video editing types of activities, you should invest in some sound deadening material for the surrounding area. Things like the foam you see in the radio studios, really absorb sound well. Here's a suggestion for that: https://www.amazon.com/Pack-Acoustic-Panels-Studio-Wedges/dp/B010GPFRUQ/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=noise+foam&qid=1572765375&s=musical-instruments&sr=1-4

Thanks for the advice!

I have a basement room so there is concrete behind the drywall. I have some parallel walls but I have lots of furniture to help bounce around the sound. The floor is carpet.

Walking around my room and clapping has a pretty consistent reverb all around. Nothing major but noticeable if you're listening for it.

Would something like this make a difference?

First time posting here. I'm thinking of moving from a 2.1 speaker setup to monitor speakers. Right now I have a Microlabs FC330 setup (16 watts), and I'm looking to buy a pair of Mackie CR5BT speakers (50 watts). I plan on using them for my desktop PC but since it has Bluetooth, I could use my phone or laptop with them, probably. Is this a good purchase? There's a cheaper version that uses 4" drivers, and I want to know if it's worth going for the full 5" drivers for around £50 more.

There's also an alternative: PreSonus Ceres C4.5 BT. Apparently Mackie have a good reputation, so I thought I should ask in a sub where people understand sound and sound quality.

Also, do I really need a subwoofer? Would these monitor speakers serve me well compared to my old setup? Thanks in advance.

Nice video!

Only thing I would suggest is to pick up a clip on / lavelier microphone. Doesn't need to be a super expensive fancy one, a cheap one from Amazon / EBay will give you a big boost in audio quality over the in camera microphone. Something like this would be fine to start out with - https://www.amazon.com/Professional-Microphone-Omnidirectional-Smartphones-Cancelling/dp/B016C4ZG74/

These aren't probably the best quality, but I was very impressed for $20

Link

I got two different colors and made it look fresh. At least take care of first order reflections, you'll be surprised by the results.

Squier by Fender Affinity P/J Beginner Electric Bass Guitar Guitar - Rosewood Fingerboard, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00C5QMW3A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_taa_IQBnzb0JSKX78

VOX AP2BS amPlug Bass G2 Guitar Headphone Amp https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NAUKJTY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_taa_MRBnzb275JB51

Learn how to set the bass up from Dave's World of Fun Stuff on YouTube. Learn to play your favorite songs from YouTube. Learn to tune your bass by ear from YouTube. Good luck.

You can buy 20 square feet of soundproofing to put on your walls for around 20 dollars on amazon I believe. I'd buy maybe 2 or 3 of that just for good measure and maybe put in a groovy shag carpet for the floor. If you plan on having drums, you'll definitely need to fill them with rags or pillows and just hope no one calls the police hahaha.

This sounds good and ought to do

I haven't bought the foam yet, so right now I'm still trying to figure out what to buy and how much. My goal is to buy something that works well and will last, but I'm also not looking to spend more than I need to. So understanding the quality of what I'm buying is pretty important to me. I don't want to spend extra money because the package the foam comes in says Auralex when I could have just as easily bought some generic company's foam for the same purpose. Also, how much do I really need? And do I need those corner things?

What I was looking at listed from cheapest to most expensive.

• $60 http://www.amazon.com/2x12x12-BURGUNDY-CHARCOAL-Acoustic-Soundproofing/dp/B00ATP5KF6/ref=pd_cp_MI_1
  
• $100 http://www.amazon.com/Auralex-Studiofoam-Inches-Wedgies-Charcoal/dp/B0002D05KA/ref=pd_sim_MI_3
  
• $150 http://www.guitarcenter.com/Auralex-D36-Roominator-Kit-102475969-i1417965.gc
  
  _
  
  
  The Room is a square 14x12 with hard wood floors. My mic is against the north wall (for the purposes of this diagram), and I sit maybe 1-2 feet from the mic with it pointed at my face.
  
  . = wall
  
  & = mic
  
  ^ = me talking at mic
  
  \ = The side where the celling joint is a 45 degree angle
  
  
  
  ......
  
  . & . \
  
  . ^ .
  ......
  
  
  
  __
  Oddly, the upper right celling joint is at a 45 degree angle instead of a 90 degree angle, so it looks like this.
  
  
  .........
  
  \
  \
  \
  .
  .
  .
  .
  .
  
  
  

No problem. You also may want some acoustic foam around your recording area, like this https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00TP7C9YY/ref=pd_aw_lpo_267_bs_img_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=DKFBYPREFAA84ZEKF401 , or this works really good as well https://www.kaoticaeyeball.com/ . If you want a more expensive set up, you can get these professional Studio standard speakers https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00HHZUTQQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1500445723&sr=8-4&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=krk+rokit&dpPl=1&dpID=41i5K-Wru6L&ref=plSrch and these monitor headphones https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00HVLUR86/ref=mp_s_a_1_12?ie=UTF8&qid=1500445753&sr=8-12&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=monitor+headphones . Good luck with the recording man, hope this helps!

I was just about to! Thought someone could use this in an apartment or spare room.

1.) Get a screen room divider off of Amazon. I used a 6 panel with a paper film on it for $80, but you can pick up 4-panels for $60. I shopped around a bit for it, YMMV. The panels determine the size of your space that it encompasses. I stand and record and found that 6 panels is comfortable enough to enclose the shelf and I and leave plenty of elbow room. W/o the shelf it'd probably fit two people sitting, if a little snug.

2.) Buy some 12 inch acoustic foam squares. Double check the dimensions of each panel to determine size (mine was 15 inch, so I cut some squares into 1/4s to cover the whole panel). I originally started with 24 1x1 squares and eventually picked up another 24 to cover both the wall and the bottom 2/5s of the divider. Most manufacturers come with sticky tabs for mounting.

3.) When you mount, give the tabs an hour on the acoustic panels to set, then another hour set on the divider. Only had two pieces come off the first time and just reapplied spare pads I had laying around.

Overall, came out to be $150 for something I can save space with and take with me if I need to move or record elsewhere.

I've been hearing the latest Windows 10 update hasn't been playing nice with Focusrite's USB interfaces. Can't confirm, I am Mac based and I love Focusrite's products, so I don't want to bash them. They make amazing products.

Just throwing this out there, however... adding just an USB interface may not satisfy the upgrade bug if the sound is already acceptable.

Regardless, there are lots of other options to act as a preamp (volume controller) in the middle, perhaps with additional inputs and outputs, headphone amplifiers, Microphone inputs, and/or the ability to to add some EQ. Below are just some examples I've found that all have balanced outputs (either XLR or 1/4" (TRS)) and these all have USB interfaces (DACs) built in too for direct PC/Mac connectivity! -

-------------------


DJ style mixers:

• https://www.amazon.com/Numark-Professional-Four-Channel-Metering-Channel/dp/B0041206UW (Has balanced XLR outputs, just not shown in Amazon's photos)
  
  
• https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-VMX1000USB-BEHRINGER-PRO-MIXER/dp/B003E1LEBG
  
  -
  
  Desk style mixers:
  
  
• https://www.amazon.com/Mackie-PROFX8V2-8-Channel-Compact-Effects/dp/B00VUU77XW
  
  
• https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-X1204USB-BEHRINGER-XENYX/dp/B0039PPW60
  
  
• https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-Q802USB-BEHRINGER-XENYX/dp/B008O517IC
  
  
• https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-Q502USB-Xenyx/dp/B00CTKI10A
  
  -
  
  Monitor controllers:
  
  
• https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-MONITOR2USB-BEHRINGER/dp/B01DV237NA (My pick for a nice inexpensive monitor controller)
  
  
• https://www.amazon.com/Mackie-BIG-KNOB-STUDIO-Studio/dp/B01N9QNWRY
  
  
• https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-CONTROL2USB-BEHRINGER-Power-amplifiers-Black/dp/B01KJ28QZE (Not a "Power Amplifier" as shown in the URL text)
  
  -
  
  Other style interfaces:
  
  
• https://www.amazon.com/Focusrite-Scarlett-Audio-Interface-Tools/dp/B01E6T56EA (the 2i2 or above is the affordable industry standard)
  
  
• https://www.amazon.com/M-Audio-M-Track-2X2-Interface-24-bit/dp/B01FFH5XMC
  
  
• https://www.amazon.com/Native-Instruments-Interface-Recording-Production/dp/B004YPRPJ6
  
  
• https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-UMC22-BEHRINGER-U-PHORIA/dp/B00FFIGZF6
  

We used to record on a Blue Snowball mic and then upped our game, and we did it without using a mixer based on some tips we got from this subreddit.

We have 4 people recording, and chose to use a Zoom H6. It can record up to six tracks (but the most we've used is 4). Our microphones are Samson Q2Us, which is the same as an Audio-Technica ATR-2100 mic. (We chose the Samson Q2Us instead because they came with headphones and cheap stands and cost less.)

We decided to get boom arms with shock mounts and pop filters in order to reduce noise. To be honest, the Zoom H6 alone, using the capsule mic, produces better sound than our Blue Snowball. I also like the H6 because I can take it on the road and record mobile interviews clearly, even in noisier environments.

Here's one of our latest podcasts recorded with this setup, and here's an old one with the Blue Snowball for comparison. (Jump around the episodes a bit and you'll see the difference.)

Good luck with whatever you choose!

You can do something as simple as acoustic wedge panels:

https://www.amazon.com/Pack-Acoustic-Panels-Studio-Wedges/dp/B010GPFRUQ/ref=sr_1_4?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1518027589&sr=1-4&keywords=acoustic+panels

Mount them to cardboard first, then to the walls just to quell those reflections you may have from the ceiling and walls. I would really only concern myself with the wall/ceiling behind the speakers, and the wall behind your listening position since it looks like the room has a shallow depth.

Other than that, I would just sit back and enjoy. Hopefully to your ears its the best sounding system you have heard, because that's all that really matters.

What would be the difference between these Phono Preamps? They all vary in price, and I've seen them all talked about on this sub, and I've researched review sites/videos on Google and YouTube, etc. And I really can't find someone saying one or the other is clearly better. There's just so many preamps I see that are recommended, and I keep asking questions in this thread to get a better idea so that I can purchase one.

Schiit Mani -- http://schiit.com/products/mani

Music Fidelity V90 LPS -- https://www.amazon.com/Musical-Fidelity-V90-LPS-Phono-Preamp/dp/B00E5BY9SO/ref=sr_1_2?s=aht&ie=UTF8&qid=1475180747&sr=1-2&keywords=schiit+mani

Rolls VP29 --https://www.amazon.com/rolls-VP29-Phono-Preamp/dp/B0002BG2R2/ref=sr_1_6?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1475183493&sr=8-6&keywords=bellari+phono

Pro-Ject Phono Box MM -- https://www.amazon.com/Pro-Ject-Phono-Box-Preamplifier-Black/dp/B000YEK1AQ/ref=sr_1_2?s=aht&ie=UTF8&qid=1475183640&sr=1-2&keywords=project+phono

Hackerman Bugle 2 -- https://hagerman-audio-labs.myshopify.com/products/bugle2

Pro-Ject Phono-Box S -- https://www.amazon.com/Pro-Ject-Audio-Phono-preamplifier-Silver/dp/B007I961IQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1475184602&sr=8-1&keywords=project+phono+preamp+s

These are all phono preamps that I've seen that are pretty popular on the Internet and on forums, reddit, etc, but I don't know the difference between all of these. If it helps, I just purchased a Pro-Ject Debut Carbon DC and I already have Audioengine 5 speakers.

For budget, I'd want to stick between $100 and $200, but I'm willing to go to $250.

I may be too late but I'm really enjoying the Oneodio Adapter Free DJ's.

https://www.amazon.com/OneOdio-Adapter-Free-Headphones-Professional-Telescopic/dp/B01N6ZJH96?th=1&psc=1

Plenty of bass and enough mids/highs. They're comfy and light. As a gaming or portable headphone, you could do much worse. Great budget option.

I'm also using the focusrite +AT2020 combo. I used just these two pieces of hardware for about 2 years and then added a DBX 286s. It's a bit on the pricey side - around $200.00 (your whole budget I know :\ ) unless you can find one used or on sale.
DBX 286s

It's a dedicated preamp and audio processor. You get more gain before clipping occurs (when compared to just using the Focusrite) and the 286s has a load of features (compressor, de-esser, enhancer, and my personal favorite the noise gate.) All applied to your audio signal before it arrives in your computer.
Obviously this has all been just my experience/opinion so take it with a grain of salt.

So maaaybe not something you are going to get now, but just wanted you to be aware of it for the future.

Good luck in your endeavors!

JBL LSR350P are $140 CDN each: https://www.amazon.ca/JBL-2-Way-Powered-Studio-Monitor/dp/B077N2GQXC

Here is a nice set of Edifiers for $249 CDN https://www.amazon.ca/Edifier-R1850DB-Bookshelf-Speakers-Bluetooth/dp/B073W1R4XQ/ There are also less expensive Edifiers that are good values for the price (check what's on Amazon and look at the reviews)

Micca PB42X are excellent for the money if you'd rather not spend as much https://www.amazon.ca/Micca-PB42X-Powered-Bookshelf-Speakers/dp/B00NXAEPDC/

I don't like August. It's my our anniversary, which is awesome, and it heralds the return of the NFL season, which is spectacular. Beyond this, in south Texas, it is HOT and humid. Disgusting. Walk out to check the mail? Sweating. Want to have a comfortable temperature inside your house? There goes the electric bill. I enjoy cicadas as much as the next guy, but hearing them happily singing while I'm trudging through mowing the yard again is almost a taunt! :-)

31 days for Augustus Should I be so fortunate this is on my main list.

I think a shotgun microphone should help here along with some blankets or acoustic treatment. You can pick up this shotgun microphone and some isolation to try and get that noise dampened. This will work if you are recording to a camera with a mic input, but if you don’t have a microphone input you can pick up this recorder which will also double as a recording interface. If you need to place your mic further away from your camera or recorder, this cord will give you some length to position it where you need. This is really nice if your camera is a few feet or more away from where you’ll be while shooting, as an added bonus the closer you place your microphone to your subject, the better it will pick sound and reject sounds you don’t want.

The shotgun mic should reject sound coming from the sides and pickup clear audio from the front. Place this close to your mouth and you’re good to go. I use a shotgun microphone to record voiceovers and videos at my desk because just like your place, it seems like my neighbors are always doing something loud. It’s useful to check your audio with some headphones to hear what background noise you might be picking up, then adjust.

If you’re still getting noise you’ll need to pick a time where you can record that you know to be more quiet. It’s a bit of a pain but unfortunately most home productions have to work around some sort of obstacle, just don’t let it keep you from making some videos!

I have a Focusrite 2i4 and this thing is very nice for the cost. Great inputs, clean sound, and good hardware.

I've been with them since my first build and no complaints. In my rookie years I flashed the BIOS from Windows and bricked it. Of course flashback worked and fixed it. At work, I a crappy fan that shorted and blew the regulator on the board (literally put a hole in it) and the system still works - just not the fan header. So forgiving.

I'm not the biggest on the microphone side myself, however case fans are no good either but I think there could be ways to notch out the sound. How silent is your case? Another cool thing you may like are acoustic panels for your wall. They come in different verity to suit your taste. Also you have isolation shields and boxs but it's a little clunky. Cutting the wall reflections help.

Yeah true enough, you'd be surprised the things you hear coming across peoples mic's. Keyboard clack is the least of the worry.

Here is a popular one, I am getting the DBX 286A which is basically the same hardware but with some visual tweaks.

It gives you an easy way to control, improve quality, and modify the vocals in sort of an all in one solution. So you don't need several pieces of hardware to achieve a single goal.

Focusrite 2i4

Seriously, save up a little more money. You will be far happier than with the Behringer, the Mackie, or the Yamaha. You will most likely discover you get what you pay for. Also, you will probably be replacing the cheaper products sooner rather than later.

The Focusrite will allow for a single headphone monitor mix for the engineer, as well as two balanced 1/4" TRS outputs to speakers/FOH, as well as 4 RCA outputs, which could be used for monitors/wedges.

Also, the Focusrite preamps sound way better off the bat, so less EQing.

The GLS audio mics are really good Shure SM57 and SM58 clones. I've A/B tested them and the GLS ones have a flatter frequency response higher and lower than the Shures. The quality of the audio is nearly indistinguishable in the ranges where they have similar frequency response. That will save a huge portion of your budget for other gear (get a better preamp sooner). http://www.amazon.com/GLS-Audio-Instrument-Microphone-ES-57/dp/B001W99HE8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1373061154&sr=8-1&keywords=gls

EDIT: the Shure mics roll off more dramatically in higher and lower frequencies. You can mimic this sound (if you want it) by just rolling off higher and lower EQ frequencies. I've bought several Shure SM57s and a Shure SM58 and since I've discovered the GLS mics, I'll never buy another Shure mic. The build quality and sound quality of the GLS mics is as good or better than the Shures.

r/audiophile recommends the JBL 305 mkII active speakers.

I would try to listen to this and take it from there.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/JBL-Professional-Powered-Studio-Monitor/dp/B077N2GQXC/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1543073436&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=jbl+306p&dpPl=1&dpID=41fc1u-32OL&ref=plSrch#&vs=1

If you're looking for passive speakers, mind you will need a decent amp to power them.

I own an Audio Technica lp120 record player with a Denon AVR X1100-W receiver and Bowers & Wilkins 685 s2 speakers.
I am very happy with the speakers. I recommend these if your room isn't too big.

I will be upgrading the cartridge to a Nagaoke MP110 in the future and I will be looking for a decent phono preamp as well. I would like to have more warmth in the sound. Perhaps tubes, but no decision has been made.
Someday I would like to upgrade the amp as well.

I know egg crate foam like /u/YouHadTimeToWaste suggested is popular for DIY soundproofing. You could also just buy tiles which are meant for the purpose
I'd also suggest doing something like this to pad the floor, both for the kids' safety and for soundproofing. You could also lay rugs over that if you feel like it.
You could also keep some blankets and pillows out for fort building.

I just got these and they are pretty great for the price. If you're looking for a temp fix for a great price, get these. Read the reviews on them.

https://www.amazon.com/OneOdio-Adapter-free-Headphones-Professional-Telescopic/dp/B01N6ZJH96/

I am so lucky!

I just ordered all new audio stuff and by luck I got a cardioid Mic, a mixer with phantom power, and a pop filter.

Thanks so much for doing this! If you have a chance could you do a tutorial type post on how to adjust settings on a mixer? I bought this one: Mixer with this Mic: Mic

Just sent you a tiny tip on your channel. Thanks man!

Assuming you mean acoustic guitar, the cheapest setup I would recommend is these three items:
GLS Audio ES-57 which is $40 and very similar to the legendary SM57.
AT2020 condenser microphone for $50.
Focusrite Scarlett 2i2 recording interface for $150.

You'll then need cables and stands, which will run you $40 at the cheapest, but you might want to get some better cables which can be around $10 each.

I recommend cables with rubber connectors like this, the ones with smooth metallic ends generally have really terrible soldering and are very breakable.
(Ones like this are okay).

This is a lot better than just getting a microphone that already has USB, and the AT2020 for $50 is a steal.

I just purchased this same set-up (Pro-ject + Audioengine A5+) and think it is an excellent combination. As mentioned previously, you will need a preamp. This is the one I picked up, and I am very happy with the sound. Enjoy! http://www.amazon.com/Rolls-VP29-Phono-preamplifier/dp/B0002BG2R2

It's the neewer arm but I would definitely recommend going with a Rode arm instead. This one is pretty flimsy.

Amazon is your best bet. I bought mine here: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00TP7C9YY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_PtzwDb9S23MJN
Even though 2 packs don't fully cover my walls, they do fine in my rather spacious make-shift walk-in closet booth. There is no echo unless I'm at the other end of the closet and yelling.

Be warned, foam boards are NOT sound proofing, they ABSORB sound. Most people don't realize this, so before you spend money don't think that this will solve those pesky outside sounds. If you do want sound proofing you need special walls, but that is too pricey for most people.

Anyway,s good luck.

Looks like you already got some, but worth mentioning to anyone else who is looking....

This pair is around $30US and the cool thing about them is that they have 2 separate inputs. So, for RS you could plug one cord into your PC and the other set into your amp/FX rig if you like to play with a separate amp.

Check on the earcup. It should say 250 pro if it's the 250ohm version.. the box could've just been a mistake, but the earcup decides all.

also because it's 250ohm, you'll need an amp to get the good stuff out of them. There are a ton of "budget" amps in that range, so here are a few that I recommend. Schiit Magni ,Objective 2 , and if you can spend the extra 50$get the Scarlet so you can get a good microphone input later down on in the line.

Well I mean it's the difference between a $30 and $150 mic setup lol, trust me you'd be hard pressed to hear differences on discord or teamspeak between these two. I honestly recommend the cheaper CAD U37 over the ATR2500 that I have if you have the space for the stand and I seriously suggest a mic arm to help dampen vibration from the keyboard. Otherwise if you don't have the room for it the Boom Pro is what I would go for.

Ok, now to explain this mess.

On the top, we have my work laptop, a ThinkPad T470

Underneath that, we have a Magnavox CDB 482 CD Player, cira 1989.

Both of those are sitting on a 22" Monoprice glass shelf

Attached using Command strips, under the shelf are:

1. Massdrop O2 Headphone Amp
   
2. Massdrop SDAC
   
3. Rolls MX 51S Mixer
   
4. Insignia A/V Switch Box
   
   And in the front:
   
   Massdrop HD6xx Headphones
   
   Not pictured:
   
   JBL LS305 MkII Studio Monitors
   
   Amazon Echo Dot
   
   

   How is this disaster wired?
   

   
   

5. The SDAC is connected to the laptop via USB
   
6. The SDAC line out has 2 RCA Splitters on it.
   
7. The CD Player has 2 RCA Splitters on it.
   
8. One pair of the splitters for the CD Player goes into the Rolls Mixer
   
9. One Pair of the splitters for the SDAC goes into the Rolls Mixer
   
10. The Amazon Echo goes into the Rolls Mixer
    
11. The Rolls Mixer goes out to the studio monitors
    
12. The second pair of the splitters from the CD player goes into the Insignia switch box
    
13. The second pair of the splitters from the SDAC goes into the Insignia switch box.
    
14. The output of the Insignia switch box goes into the O2 headphone amp.
    
    

    Ok, now why the **** did you do this?
    

    
    First off, I work from home 90% of the time, so I don't need to worry about disturbing my coworkers.
    
    Second off, I wanted to hook up my CD player on my desk and start listening to my CD collection.
    
    Third off, I wanted to plug some speakers into the Echo Dot to get better sound out of it.
    
    So, this kind of evolved. First I bought the Rolls MX51S and used it to mix the laptop, CD Player and Echo together, and that was awesome. Was exactly what I wanted.
    
    Then I deciced I may want to use my headphones with the CD Player. So, I bough the A/V switch box to let me hook up the CD Player and the ODAC to the O2 at the same time, and sat down on Sunday wired the whole thing up.
    
    The only downside is that I need to turn the volume down on the mixer whenever I want to use the headphones.
    
    Overall, I am happy with the setup

Beaky is right, at that price you can find an interface with built in pre's. Way better.

120 shipped with prime refurb:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B005OZE9SA/ref=dp_olp_refurbished?ie=UTF8&condition=refurbished

Model up new shipped with prime for 138
http://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B009B15N0Q/ref=dp_olp_new?ie=UTF8&condition=new


These act as offboard sound cards, headphone amps, dacs and can drive 2 xlr mics in stereo. Way better deal/upgrade overall. You could probably find em even cheaper, I just searched 'focusrite' on amazon. The focusrite scarlet series is fantastic for the price.

I don't have one myself, but a friend loves his:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NAUKJTY/

Preamp suggestions please as I'm going insane over getting something crappy... >.>

Here are 2 that I've seen browsing the reddit:

https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-Microphono-Pp400-Ultra-Compact-Preamp/dp/B000H2BC4E/
https://www.amazon.com/rolls-VP29-Phono-Preamp/dp/B0002BG2R2

My powered speaker system has 3.5mm, so I was thinking of using an RCA to 3.5 (http://bit.ly/2rlrIw5 said I don't lose quality). Opinions on that setup?
Player -> Pre-Amp -> RCAto3.5 -> Powered Speakers

And which of the two preamps or other suggestions? Trying to stick under $75-100 and I'm not audiophile, but I definitely want it to be clear/no hum (as I've heard that in some Amazon reviews of preamps)

Also..Thank you for any help at all!! :)