(Part 2) Reddit mentions: The best network adapters

Mine was sold with an antenna, but there's other inmarsat traffic to poke at after Outernet moves. :)

I like the $49 price point, that's sort of a psychological magic spot. Under $50 for a board that's similar to any of the $30-40-ish embedded boards plus a $20 rtlsdr plus a $5 USB hub all built in? Yeah, that's pretty sweet. Somebody's gonna pair that sucker with a PoE splitter and put it tower-top.

Okay, so here's my logic: Let's assume a single SKU doesn't make sense long-term. You want to get the cost down on the 256MB, Outernet-specific version. So make that one. What's the most sensible configuration for the other(s)? Can just one additional SKU bring broader appeal?

I feel like making the 512MB version with 1090-specific RF parts might be the best route for general-purpose functionality. It still has the bypass path for "everyone else", the ADS-B market seems pretty active, and it would seem to minimize module count and soldering for the largest number of users. I never even looked to see if the bypass path also has bias-tee functionality, but that would be good.

And for those of us who want to build our own filters right into the thing, since we're comfortable with soldering already by definition, we can always scrape off the 1090 parts and reuse the pads. :)

The only folks left out in the cold by that split would be those who want to do L-band stuff but need the big RAM. Which is definitely a few people -- but I think most of 'em already have a Dreamcatcher, probably? Or just do another run of those and set 'em up as a while-supplies-last third SKU. Which may have been what just happened with the clearance sale. They had their chance!

Could (all) the alternate version(s) be offloaded to rtl-sdr.com or someone? So the only one you'd be on the hook for supporting would be the "official" Skylark-specific board, and everything else is for experimenters, here's a schematic, here's the radionerds page, figure the rest out.

I'm a really big fan of Hikvision cameras. They feel really solid for the price and image quality is very good. I'm looking pretty hard at an Amcrest for my next cam. They're getting decent reviews for the price too.

If you do get a Hikvision, look closely at whether the seller is an authorized distributor. I've gotten a grey-market camera and it was ok, but for a few $ more you can also get support and english firmware updates.

For myself, I have one of these in my garage
DS-2CD2332-I-2.8MM

I have one of these on my front porch.
DS-2CD2142FWD-IS-2.8MM

I have one of these powering them both NETGEAR ProSAFE FS108PNA

An unfinished basement and vinyl siding makes mounting exterior cams more tolerable. http://imgur.com/a/qufyW

For setup / testing, I keep one of these around TP-LINK Gigabit PoE Injector TL-PoE150S

I've also installed many more cameras for friends and family.

One 16 cam setup used a dedicated Hikvision DVR unit, DS-7716NI-SP/16-2TB. It has the PoE switch built in. Setup was pretty quick and he's still really happy with it. Runtime on a 1500VA UPS is pretty respectable too.

• 1x DS-2CD2132F-I-4MM
  
• 10x DS-2CD2032-I-4MM
  
• 1x DS-2CD2232-I5-4MM
  
• 4x DS-2CD2112F-I-2.8MM
  
  I've got a buddy with 8x DS-2CD2032-I-4MM powered by a Passive 10/100 Power over Ethernet PoE Injector. He's having pretty good luck with that setup.
  
  At work we install mostly Axis cameras, but we're trying 24 Avigilon cameras for one section of student housing. They seem pretty well built too. This is a mostly positive post, the only cameras I HATE are made by Arecont Vision.
  
  If you haven't decided on software, I've got an opinion on that too.
  
  I'm running Milestone XProtect Go on a spare PC. It's free for up to 8 cameras, up to 5 days of retention, no charge for the clients. I am familiar since I manage an XProtect Enterprise install at work, but it can be a pain to set up at first.
  
  I've also played with Blue Iris and ZoneMinder. I think Blue Iris is the way to go for most folk.

> My router is downstairs and across the house, so direct ethernet is not an option.

Wifi mostly likely is not an option either - at least not with JUST a WiFi card in the PC..

802.11 2.4Ghz my reach but that frequency band is so over saturated these day you will be lucky to minimal speeds and high latency on it..
and 802.11 AC 5GHz band probably will not have enough signal strength to reach..

So your entire WiFi configuration comes into play..

The Gateway that is used from your ISP to broadcast the WiFi signal... How far the device that wants WiFi is from that Gateway.. How much OTHER Wifi Signal (from all your neighbors) is clogging up the airways.. What building / appliance / stuff is between the far reaching device and the Gateway..

To combat these issues Mesh WiFi networks are being implemented more and more - So I would look into those..

https://www.pcmag.com/roundup/350795/the-best-wi-fi-mesh-network-systems

Ethernet over Powerline is also an option, but due to it being across the house they will not be on the same circuits and that adds some complication to the system..

Ethernet over powerline basically transmits a signal over your power lines to modules on either end.. Home wiring / power panels and appliances on the lines can effect the quality of the Ethernet of powerline signal..

These solutions are one of those try it and see if it works and works well in your situation.. They can either work GREAT or be a complete nightmare,

If you get a cheap set of adapters that were made a while ago with older EOP technology it likely will not work - They keep refining the process..

https://www.lifewire.com/best-powerline-network-adapters-4141215

With all that out of the way..

If your WiFi solution is decent then the Maximus X Hero(wifi-ac) will be adequate..

If it is not or you need faster transfers with a WiFi gateway that supports Multi-User MiMo Multiple in Multiple outs.. Which would aggregate more than one WiFi data streams..

You can get a card like this: https://www.amazon.com/ASUS-802-11AC-Wireless-AC3100-Adapter-PCE-AC88/dp/B01H9QMOMY

If the Ethernet over powerline works out then your Built in Ethernet would work..

So how do you know if your WiFi as it sits will even reach?

Use your smartphone as a WiFi signal detector..

Here are some Android APPS - if you only have Apple your on your own lol..

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.vrem.wifianalyzer


https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.pzolee.wifiinfo

I would download them all and try them out and learn how the WiFi signals in your area are and what the traffic looks like..

Then go up to where the PC would be check the signal strength and traffic..

While up there run a Speetest

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=org.zwanoo.android.speedtest

and see what kind of speeds you get...

you can take your phone around to various areas to see how this changes..

Oh and good luck WiFi is all witchcraft and magic so it is not an exact science (unless you have the knowledge and equipment for proper evaluation)

With these simple tools you can gain a better understanding of your WiFi and what works and what does not..

Off the top of my head:

• First aid kit (used it more than I thought I would that year)
  
• Extra seating (foldable chair(s) at least)
  
  Quick tangent: the coolest room on my floor in FT was a double. They bunked their beds and arranged their beds to be bunked together. They then put a futon and chairs in their room and had plenty of space for friends to hang out. You will not regret trying to be like these guys.
  
  
• Desk chair cushion (I recommend this one; stay away from Walmart/Target's shitty ones)
  
• Cool lamp or some form of alternative to the flourescent lighting when you're just hanging out
  
• a few small knick-knacks to liven up the place
  
• WALL DECOR. Get a cool tapestry (urbanoutfitters.com has cool ones), some sort of poster -- anything!
  
• A twin XL mattress pad
  
• Extra sheets
  
  Another tangent: I had a darling girl over one fateful night in FT, and I'm really glad I met her. After she left, however, I was even more glad that I had an extra pair of sheets because I noticed that she managed to smear her face makeup all over my sheets and pillowcase.
  
  
• Some sort of speakers with a sub. I can recommend some good speakers, but an even better idea if you have existing ones is to buy an adapter like this, and use bluetooth to connect your speakers to your phone and laptop.
  
• Fan(s). If you're in a double, you can get away with 1-2 fans. If you're in a triple, I recommend 2-3 fans. Vornado is a good brand. If you're living on campus and not in FT, I would get a small fan with a clip. You'll want to attach this to your desk shelf (FT doesn't have these shelves).
  
  
• Sleeping bag/blanket(s)/extra pillow(s). These will be useful in case someone crashes at your place and you don't want to cozy up with them in your tiny bed.
  
• Shower caddy and shower flip flops
  
• Baskets of some sort to organize your stuff
  
  I know you are trying to reduce costs, but I included some seemingly unnecessary things on this list because your dorm room is your home for the year. Having a little bit of decor and extra seating makes all the difference in terms of your happiness.
  If you have any questions, feel free to ask; good luck!

1. My advice would be to buy a separate router and access point to get the best performance possible. Depending on your budget, you have multiple choice. What I would recommend is for you to get a Ubiquiti EdgeRouter Lite and a Ubiquiti Unifi AP AC Lite, both together are going to be the same price of an R7000, but you will get so much more performance and flexibility. If you want to make sure to always get 150Mbps, you could add a second access point if you can wire them.
   
   
2. Make sure to get one with at least AC1200, and if possible, Beamforming. Something like this Netgear AC1200 or this TP-Link Archer T4UH would probably work well.
   
   
3. If you don't need 867Mbps on that PC, you might be ok with a USB dongle that supports N instead of AC. Another option would be to install a USB 3.0 card, you can get a PCI Express USB 3.0 card for about $20 on Amazon.
   
   
4. Yes, and no. The technology has advanced a lot but most consumer routers don't fully implement things to limit the cost. This is why I would recommend using Ubiquiti products instead of Netgear. Of course, if you have the budget, there are many more options that are "enterprise-grade" and that would allow you an even better connection. You could get a Ruckus R600 and get an incredibly powerful signal, but the access point is over $600. The Ubiquiti access point is a very good compromise between features and performance versus price.

Yes I do (Althought I always recommend Cable over Wifi ,but I'll just assume that isn't a possiblity for you :P )

The Archer T series are good. The 3 models come up as top, T6E , T8E , T9E. Some do 802.11AC wifi others don't. Depends on your router and home network if you would have any use for that.

Those are all PCI Cards you place inside your PC. The Asus PCE-AC68 also deserves a mention if we are talking about High performance Wireless cards. Althought its expensive.

You can also go the USB route, you'll end up with dongles like this Netgear AC1200 which is a excellent USB options, but once again pricey (See the trend, dont worry we are getting there)

A more affordable PCI Options would be this TP-LINK WDN4800 N900 or a USB dongle like this TP-Link WDN4200 N900

And if you are really low on funds you could go for something like the Asus USB-N13 for 18$ or TP-Link N300 which is only 11$.

Personally I'd recommend you grab the TP N900, either the PCI or USB variant would do fine , PCI is faster, USB is probably a bit more versatile as you can use it with any PC/Laptop. N900 gets great reviews all around and it supports 802.11N , should be plenty fast for gaming. One issue the N900 seems to have is Digital signage with W10 ,so you need a different driver than the official one to get by this issue and use 5ghz. Not sure if thats relevant for you.

Either way ,you see the trend, Asus and TP-link are really my go2brands for anything networking.

I realize I still gave you a ton of choices, might not be the most helpful, but atleast you'll have some direction to look.

Thanks. So, my Blu-Ray player doesn't have wifi, now that's not that big of an issue, I usually just unplug the HDMI cable and hook up my laptop. Granted, I could also just get an Ethernet cable, but I don't know if I want to mess with contacting the college to set up a physical connection (it's probably not actually that hard and I could always get something like [this thing from amazon] (https://www.amazon.com/IOGEAR-Universal-Ethernet-Adapter-GWU627/dp/B004UAKCS6), but whatever, I'm getting off topic). Anyway, my main question is about headphones. I would need something like [this] (https://www.amazon.com/Extractor-Cyelee-Optical-Splitter-Converter--Include/dp/B01D1680O2/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1466101106&sr=1-1-spons&keywords=hdmi+audio+extractor&psc=1) as well as an additional HDMI cable to do what I was asking, correct? I just want to be sure, I bought the adapter without really looking into it and I want to be sure before buying anything else. So, to be absolutely clear, I would connect and HDMI cable from my Blu-Ray or computer to the stereo, use my adapter with the RCA output, and use a second HDMI cable to hook up to my TV, which I mute. I'm pretty sure I got it, I just like to make sure, I apologize for being redundant, but I am very thankful for your answer.

Hello,

I kinda had a problem like this a while ago, and it took me quite some time to determine what was going on, which, as it turns out, wasn't related to Steam or CSGO. Despite what others have said, for me it was a hardware (or firmware) issue. Anyway, here's what I figured out...

I run a Wifi setup because where I'm located I am not physically close to my router for LAN. My problem was similar to yours in so much that attempting to download updates would either corrupt the game, or end up with saying the download was corrupt. In any case, it turned out to be my primary WLAN card. To fix the situation, I swapped over to my secondary WLAN card and, go figure, update downloads started working just fine again with no corruptions of any kind. Not entirely sure what the issue is, considering the primary card works just fine for every other application, but this is the root of the problem, so changing up your cards is your best bet. If you don't have more than one, or if you use LAN vs WLAN, here's what I'd suggest you do...

For WLAN setup:

• First off, try using LAN over WLAN if feasible. If not, keep reading...
  
• Change to a different wireless card. If you don't have one, buy another cheap one from Amazon. [This] (http://www.amazon.com/Panda-Wireless-PAU06-300Mbps-Adapter/dp/B00JDVRCI0/ref=sr_1_6?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1463330990&sr=1-6&keywords=usb+wireless+adapter) USB wireless adapter works just fine. I don't recommend things I haven't used myself.
  
• With the two cards installed (once you have two), make sure you are using the new one.
  
• Go to Control Panel > Network and Sharing Center > Change Adapter Settings > Right click on the OLD adapter > Disable > Now make sure you can connect with the new adapter > Restart Steam and try downloading updates again
  
  For LAN setup (physical cable from router to PC):
  
  
• Given that most computer only have one ethernet port, you options are limited.
  
• Try wireless like above, recommendation on wireless adapter still stands.
  
• Try a USB ethernet adapter. In this case, [this] (http://www.amazon.com/Plugable-Ethernet-Network-Adapter-Chromebook/dp/B00484IEJS?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00) one should do just fine. I use it for my Chromebook in areas with only LAN access.
  
• With the USB adapter installed, make sure you are using it.
  
• Go to Control Panel > Network and Sharing Center > Change Adapter Settings > Right click your built in LAN port > Disable > Now make sure you can connect with the new adapter > Restart Steam and try downloading updates again
  
  If none of that works, the only other option I'd suggest to you that I didn't see listed here already is changing your download region in Steam.
  
  
• Go to Steam > Settings > Download > Download Region > Change this to any region WELL AWAY from your current one, which is typically the one closest to you.
  
• After change, restart Steam and try downloads again.
  
  The region change did not work for me, but did for many others, so that's the only reason why I mention it. In any case good luck!
  

I submitted the following comment when I made this post yesterday. Unfortunately it got blocked because I accidentally included a couple referral links which I just copy/pasted off the piratebox website. Thanks to the mods for promptly getting back to me about why it kept getting deleted.

SD card and shipping & handling not included.

pi zero - $5.00

pins - $8.95

[wifi adapter](https://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-WN722N-Wireless-Adapter-External/dp/B002SZEOLG?ie=UTF8&ref_=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top) - $13.33

right angle USB ports - $5.64

USB battery - $3.99

micro-mini usb cable - $2.89

Total: $39.80

*I used an Alfa AWUSO36NH but the TP-LINK TL-WN722N should work. More information on compatible network adapters here.

The optional Illuminated LED shutdown switch makes this device easier to use but costs an additional $16.99

About

PirateBox software runs on inexpensive hardware to connect users over an offline wifi network. Join it and your browser redirects to a simple interface where you can share files, chat, and stream video.

Pifm is a small program you can install in a Raspberry Pi PirateBox, aka “pi(rate)box.” It can broadcast on FM radio to inform potential users about the PirateBox wifi network, play uploaded music, and with a USB microphone Pifm lets you talk live to your audience.

Improvements

The first version of this project was well received so I'm back to share design and documentation improvements. Pi(rate)FM Zero is now fully self contained. It turns on and off with a button press and can automatically broadcast information about the wifi network over empty FM stations at user defined intervals.

Controversy

Back in March I was told the FCC would raid me, disassemble my pi, fine me up to $50,000 and label me a terrorist. I'm happy to report none of that happened :) The FM signal may be messy but it's also short range. The Pifm developers claim it can broadcast up to 100 meters. In my experience (with a 20cm antenna) it goes no further than 40 meters.

To my understanding this device is legal in the US under 47 CFR (Code of Federal Regulations) Section 15.239 and the [July 24, 1991 Public Notice (still in effect)](https://apps.fcc.gov/edocs_public/attachmatch/DOC-297510A1.pdf]. From the FCC's website:

>Unlicensed operation on the AM and FM radio broadcast bands is permitted for some extremely low powered devices covered under Part 15 of the FCC's rules. On FM frequencies, these devices are limited to an effective service range of approximately 200 feet (61 meters).

Thanks to everyone who shared concerns over Pifm's legality. I took /u/QuirkyQuarQ's advice and experimented with a 100 MHz low-pass filter. Unfortunately, the FM signal leaks through the network adapter. I'll continue to look into it. Pifm may cause interference but there shouldn't be any trouble if you keep it away from airports and don't attach massive antennas to it.

Why not use a car/smartphone FM trasmitter?

You totally could. It might even be better in some situations if you don't mind a slightly larger, more expensive device with an extra battery to charge. Keep in mind you'd lose the ability to live broadcast with a microphone or play audio directly from the PirateBox.

Going forward

In my next version I'd like to improve the PirateBox interface and make a way for users to rate playlists while having Pifm automatically play the highest ranked tracks. Users could upload music and vote on which tracks gets played. It'd be your own personal short range interactive digital-analog radio station hosted on a private intranet.

Bonus**

Here's a .img file for your convenience. Just install it to an SD card (at least 4 gb) and run it in a Pi Zero to get started. Note: auto broadcast on FM isn't enabled by default so you'll need to add a cronjob as detailed in the guide if you want to activate this feature.

While Ethernet is best, if you must go with wifi, then look for a good USB wifi adapter (minimum 2 stream 802.11ac (AC1200) )

(Please, if you can, try to do a direct Ethernet connection, it will offer you the best possible experience)

Under ideal conditions, 2 stream 802.11ac, tops out at about 500mbit/s on the 5GHz band, and around 250-270mbit/s on the 2.4GHz band, though if you are far from the access point (even if just 20 feet + a wall, can easily drop the throughput to around 100mbit/s)

The main problem that PCI based wifi adapters on desktop PC's have, is the antenna location. The antennas are usually on the back of the case, and thus half of the signal path is being blocked by the case which acts as an RF shield.

While you can improve the signal by getting some longer coax cable and moving the antennas to a better unobstructed location, but you then get signal loss.
With a USB wifi adapter (USB 3.0 preferred), you can place the adapter in a good location and not have any signal loss since the analog signal is made digital before you suffer any line losses. (PS USB 3 wifi adapters will restart them selves if you connect to a 2.4GHz network, as USB 3 signals heavily at 2.4GHz, and thus the adapter drops to USB 2 mode to avoid raising the noise floor for the wifi)

If you want one of the fastest USB 3 wifi adapters, then you are looking at the netgear A6210
http://www.amazon.com/Netgear-AC1200-Wi-Fi-Adapter-A6210-100PAS/dp/B00MRVJY1G/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1416840946&sr=8-1&keywords=netgear+a6210

PS keep in mind that with both wifi, and powerline, as the signal weakens, the latency will increase.

If you want the best possible wifi connection, then the only option, is to use 2 wifi routers as a wireless bridge.

This is a benchmark of my R6300V2 being used as a wireless bridge http://i.imgur.com/3zK7rq8.jpg
(pretty much tops out at pretty much 702.7mbit/s, and due to the high transmit power on both ends (2 routers each pushing close to 1000mw ) the range is extremely good, which is another benefit of wireless bridges, a normal client will typically have around 100-200mw transmit power, while a good router will pump out close to 1000mw, they also tend to have better antennas, and better receiver sensitivity (which is usually why a higher transmit power router can improve range even though the client has a low transmit power)

You seem to be confused by marketing nonsense started at Linksys after Bill Gates suggested the phrase. There are two main integrated components here. One is the router (really a router + switch) and the other is the wifi access point.

You should return the model that you purchased. The best quality router that I could suggest would be the Ubiquiti ER-X, $50 and it has no integrated wifi access point. The reason why it is he best is due to the smart queue, which helps with bufferbloat. That does not solve your actual problem, but it makes as much sense as talking about stronger routers and makes my point that your wifi AP is a separate function that should be treated separately. Before I address that m, I should say that you will not regret getting the ER-X if you decide to do it. Its smart queue will fix the issue of web pages being slow when you are downloading things that you probably blamed on your ISP.

As for fixing your wifi, you will probably want multiple access points configured to use the same SSID and encryption. Then place them at strategic locations on your property and configure them to use non-overlapping channels. That will allow roaming between APs and allow your Netflix streams to go over the nearest one without causing one to step on another. Multiple Unifi AC Lite APs at $70 each would work nicely.

If for some reason you do not want to do that, you could try buying a used Ruckus Zoneflex 7982 off eBay. They get far better range than other access points due to their antenna array that does advanced beamforming and custom radio that had higher RX sensitivity than other radios. I have been testing one and I can get 140Mbps on 5GHz from about 40ft away with 4 to 5 ft of (drywall) walls in between my laptop and the AP. If you buy one, you will need to purchase a power supply separately because they do not come with them. They are mostly meant to be powered by 802.11af PoE and there are cheap adapters that you can buy to provide that. For example:

https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Gigabit-Ethernet-Injector-TL-PoE150S/dp/B001PS9E5I

You could be looking at ~$110 for the AP and a power supply. Note that those APs are EOL, despite being the best in the world 5 years ago. That is why you can purchase them used off eBay for between $90 to $120 rather than their original MSRP of $1099. They still work well. I gave one to my uncle for Christmas and set it up for him. A few days later, I asked him how he liked it and he replied it was the best Christmas present ever. He went across the street from his house and had a weak, but usable 2.4GHz signal on his phone. At 2.4GHz, it covers his entire property and likely his next door neighbor's entire property too. If I had to guess, his property is something between 150ft by 150ft and 200ft by 200ft. The Ruckus is located on top of a tall piece of furniture on the second floor to try to minimize obstructions.

That said, your mileage can vary, but either of the APs I suggested work nicely (especially if you go with multiple ones). In my experience, one centrally placed Ruckus zoneflex 7982 will cover the same area as two Unifi AC Lite APs, although top speeds are lower near the AP because the zoneflex 7982 is 802.11n while the Unifi APs are 802.11ac. I would expect the Unifi AP speeds to fall below the Ruckus unit at 25 ft with a couple feet of wall in between, although I did not verify it. I just know that they only do 110Mbps at about 30ft with 3 to 4 ft of wall and the Ruckus does 140Mbps at about 40ft with 4 to 5ft of wall. I did not explicitly measure distance and thickness, so those numbers are approximate and more accurate taken relatively than absolutely.

It's super easy. I never did it before either, and I'm a female who has zero experience with house repairs. I can build a computer but don't know a damn thing about house repairs like electricity, plumbing, or anything like that. Basically, my dad just used his drill, drilled a small hole and went into the basement and we snaked the ethernet cord up through to my room.

If you want to get a new router, I would recomend getting a Linksys WRT AC1200 Dual-Band and Wi-Fi Wireless Router with Gigabit and USB 3.0 Ports and eSATA. I have the model that's slightly higher, the Linksys WRT1900ACS Dual-Band Smart Wi-Fi Gigabit Router, but I don't think you would need to spend that much unless you wanted to.

Or you could get a powerline adapter or wireless range extender. You could get the TP-LINK AV500 AC750 Wi-Fi Range Extender, Powerline Edition (TL-WPA4530 KIT) which has both and currently has a $10 off coupon. Obviously, ethernet is always better than wireless if possible. Make sure what you get can handle the speed of your modem/router. You can do a speed test with any of these websites (I typically check a few different websites and then average the speed): Ookla Speed Test, CNET Speed Test, Source Forge Speed Test, Bandwith Place Speed Test, SpeedTest.Org, e-Speed Test, SpeedOf.Me Speed Test, Speak Easy Speed Test, Verizon Speed Test, Charter Speed Test.

Remember, if you make any purchase with Amazon, always use Amazon Smile which donates a portion of your purchase to a charity of your choice. So instead of going to http://www.amazon.com, always go to http://smile.amazon.com and help someone out.

Yeah, I say return that shit, you got taken in by very misleading marketing.

A wireless router can't transmit data any faster than what the client it's talking to is capable of.

Most modern clients are only capable of the 867Mbps or 1300Mbps max 802.11ac PHY rates, which, after typical Wi-Fi overhead, means 500-700 Mbps max throughput, and that's on a clean channel with the client in the same room as the AP, and no other devices taking up any airtime. The max PHY rate you can get drops off dramatically with distance and interference, so if you put a wall or a floor/ceiling between your client and the AP, you'll get far less throughput.

I could go into painful technical detail about how shitty TP-Link's marketing claims are for that router, but unless you're really ready to nerd out about wireless modulation and coding schemes, let me just leave it at this: Your "red beast" isn't going to improve over the "550 wireless, 900 wired" performance of your existing rented router unless you have clients capable of one or more of the following unusual speed-boosting technologies:

1. Support for 4 spatial streams. One ASUS PCIe WNIC for desktops supports this, but it's not common in laptops or tablets or phones because small devices don't have enough room for 4 separate antennas spaced out enough to be useful. Support for 4 spacial streams also adds power consumption (lessens battery life), increases thermal load (fans would have to run more, or throttle the CPU, GPU, or Wi-Fi more), and adds cost.
   
2. Support for using nonstandard 1024-QAM modulation with 802.11ac. 1024-QAM is part of the brand-new, just-barely-started-shipping 802.11ax/"Wi-Fi 6" standard, but some vendors added nonstandard 1024-QAM support to their 802.11ac devices. Your "red beast" doesn't actually support 802.11ax, so this speed boost only works with client devices that support this weird nonstandard mode. As it turns out, that same ASUS PCE-AC88 I linked to above happens to be one of the few WNICs that supports this. It seems Broadcom added nonstandard 1024-QAM support to one or two of their highest-end 802.11ac chipsets a couple years ago, so there are a few Broadcom-based client devices or WNIC cards that support it. I'm not aware of whether any other chipset vendors support it, or whether the support is interoperable between vendors (since it hasn't been standardized by the IEEE and the Wi-Fi Alliance doesn't certify compatibility for it).

I recently had to figure out broadcom drivers on a Lenovo Thinkpad with Debian...it took a while but was thankfully well documented...I'd recommend a known-compatible USB solution...although I'm ambivalent about wired-vs-wireless as long as you're mindful that WiFi-isn't-Ethernet™

Two known good (native support) solutions -

WiFi: https://www.amazon.com/Edimax-EW-7811Un-150Mbps-Raspberry-Supports/dp/B003MTTJOY

Ethernet: https://www.amazon.com/Plugable-Micro-B-Ethernet-Adapter-Raspberry/dp/B00RM3KXAU

Else, google will be your friend to find someone else who's figured out this specific hardware/software stack. Honestly, with all of the dependencies that you'll likely need to satisfy via a thumbdrive (or something??!), you probably really want a working network connection (or a lot of patience). I tried the Thinkpad's wifi without a network connection at first, and quickly decided to go find an Ethernet cable...

If you had another rPi with a working network connection, you could use that hardware to bootstrap the rPi Zero's sdcard && os && driver...

If you do get this adapter working, make sure to come back and update with how you got it up and running...you probably won't be the only person with this question :)

> I'm having an electrician come out to run Cat6 throughout my house. The idea is to have 6 pulls in the office/game room, 6 in the living room/media room, and 2 in each of 3 bedrooms.

Sounds good, but you'll also want drops for your APs. These go to the spots on your ceiling where you'll mount your APs, and the locations depend on the layout if your house. If you have one large spread out floor you'll want at least two that are fairly far apart and in rooms with heavy Wi-Fi use. If you have multiple floors you'll want one per floor, each centrally located. You don't need to run power to these as well as the APs will use PoE (power over ethernet).

> The cables will be terminated using RJ45 connectors on both ends. One end in pass-through faceplates on the walls and the other will terminate in a pass-through patch panel in a network rack. This will then hook into a Netgear Switch (linked below).

Don't do this. All permanently installed cables should terminate at punch-downs at both ends. Punch-down keystone jacks at one end and a punch-down patch panel at the other. Punch-down terminations are easier and quicker than RJ45 terminations and work better. The cable itself needs to be solid core copper, no CCA (copper clad aluminum) and no stranded cable. The only exception is the AP drops, these terminate in an RJ45 plug that will connect directly to the AP. Cat6 is fine as long as all your drops are under 180 ft.

> Second, is there anything I can do to lose the Verizon router if I plan to still use their television package? I may drop it in the future, but for now we plan to keep it.

Absolutely. You just get a MoCA adapter and connect it between your coaxial lines (just use the line that was previously connected to your Verizon router) and an Ethernet port on your switch/router. Before you install this you'll want to make sure to have Ethernet cable run from your ONT to your router and have your ONT set to use Ethernet rather than Coax for internet. This will not affect your TV service, and will already be the case if your service is 100 megabit or faster. Getting it done just requires a quick phone call to Verizon, but have the ONT to router ethernet cable in place before you do this.

> Third, is there any benefit to getting a different router if our wireless use is limited? We do a lot of gaming and a lot of people suggest getting a gaming router, but can I have 2 routers on the network? I don't fully understand what the second would do or how to use it for everything but TV usage?

Any typical home network always has exactly one router. The purpose of a router isn't to provide Wi-Fi, it's to act as a gateway and traffic cop between your network and the internet. It allows multiple devices to use a single internet connection, gives IP addresses to devices on the network, and blocks unwanted incoming traffic. Only one device, the device directly connected to your internet connection, can do these jobs.

The device that provides Wi-Fi is an Access Point or AP. A "wireless router" is just a router with an AP built in. In your case, you'll want to use dedicated APs. I already went over where they should be located and the cable that needs to be run to them. You do not need a PoE switch to power them, each one comes with a PoE injector.

As for the actual router, this will be your best choice. This is a router only, it is not a switch and it is not an AP. You just connect the WAN port to your ONT and the LAN port to your switch. It works particularly well with the APs I linked, as they're all on the UniFi platform they're all controlled with the same UniFi Controller software.

Here's my setup, which is pretty similar to what I'm proposing:

ONT. Nothing too special here, just notice that the Ethernet port is hooked up and the MoCA light is off, indicating the internet connection is not using the coaxial cable. The Coaxial cable goes to a 2-way splitter, one cable from it goes to the MoCA adapter (it used to go to the Verizon router when I used one), the other goes to a 4-way splitter, cables from there go to the cable boxes.

Front view of network gear. That's an EdgeRouter Lite at the top, it has the same hardware as the UniFi Security Gateway but uses its own web-based GUI rather than the UniFi Controller. Practically the same thing. The left port on it goes to the ONT, the right one goes to the switch at the bottom. In the middle is the patch panel, a punch-down one.

Rear view of network gear. There's a lot going on here. The back of the switch can be seen in the middle, above it are all the lines leading to the back of the patch panel and the outlet/surge protector. The MoCA adapter is at the top left, this takes the place of the Verizon router's MoCA hardware to give internet access to the cable boxes. At the top right are two PoE injectors for two UniFi APs.

A UniFi AP. Please ignore the wallpaper, it's not my decision. The Ethernet cable runs directly to one of the PoE injectors in the previous picture, then a short Ethernet cable connects the PoE injector to the switch. No other cable runs to the AP. The other AP is on the floor above. Mine are wall-mounted and work just fine, but they're designed to be ceiling mounted and will work better that way.

Radio is weird.
(tldr at end)
The overall power matters, but the concentration of that power matters. For example, if you're just talking normally, your voice can be heard decently near to you. But if you talk through a cone, your voice can be heard better, farther, but only in a limited area.

Directional antennas are the same way. They don't change the overall power being sent, but they change the concentration of it, making where they point effectively more powerful see: EIRP

So, yes, you may have a real problem wherein a directional antenna could get data to your laptop, but your laptop may not be able to get that data back to your antenna. One can focus its power, your laptop likely can't (Some newer standards and chipsets support beamforming, which is similar, but i'm discounting that).

Your distance is far, but it's possible. There are special setups for Wireless Internet Service Providers (WISP) that take distance into account, but easiest thing for you is probably to :

tldr: use a directional antenna like what you linked for your wireless access point, and something like this on your laptop http://smile.amazon.com/Alfa-AWUS036NH-802-11g-Wireless-Long-Range/dp/B003YIFHJY?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage . Point them at each other, and you might have a strong enough signal, though the distance is still at the edge of what will work without more special solutions.

I have a similar need and I tried using the wireless uplink feature and using a second UAP AC, but as noted in the other comments, the performance was not great.

I bought a Western Digital WD bridge from ebay for $35 and it works pretty well.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Western-Digital-WD-My-Net-AC-Bridge-4-Port-Gigabit-WiFi-Bridge-WDBMRD0000NBL/231070268555?epid=151851167&hash=item35ccdc7c8b:g:2AMAAOxyOlhSq59y

The throughput was about double what I was getting compared to a second UAP-AC-PRO and it only cost about $35. It is a little temperamental and needs to be rebooted occasionally.

I really wish there was a UBNT solution (AC bridge ) that didn't require going to their airmax products as the intermediate link.

Also as mentioned, the power line products have gotten much better. I just bought a couple of the AV2 power line adapters with mimo and get really good throughput on those. I had tried the previous generation and found them unusable. Something like:

https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Powerline-Pass-through-TL-PA9020P-KIT/dp/B01H74VKZU/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1517531244&sr=8-3&keywords=powerline+mimo

Project is mostly done - disappointingly simple.

We have cable internet coming in, 100mbs to a MTA modem/router. That sends out WiFi to the local room, (middle of house) but doesn't get the two far ends, the garage and master bedrooms.)

Directv is also installed, ran with coaxial everywhere. Nowadays Directv sets up a series of WiFi emitters, and each TV has a 'mini genie' box to pick up that WiFi and bring video/sound to the TV. This avoids the need for lots of cable drops, and lets you move equipment around easier.

Played with running internet through the coaxial used by Directv, played with running extra coaxial and using MoCA, running Cat6 and setting up drops, looked at Ubiquiti, looked at several other items.

Ended up with four of NETGEAR's Powerline adaptors: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01929V7ZG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Plugged the wireless one into the router and wall socket, dropped a WiFi capable powerline AP in the garage, Master bedroom, a couple on each end of the upstairs bedrooms. Deliberately didn't name them the same as the main router, but otherwise they all have the same SSID and password as each other. Go anywhere in the house, and you pretty quickly lose the signal from one but come within the range of the next. Due to the house construction there are sharp dropoffs between rooms so simply going through a door is enough to force your device to switch APs.

/shrug Cost $400 and was pretty painless. The house was built in 1965, and they're running rock solid.

I tried a few different brands, ended up liking Netgear's the best. And as they're sold in sets, I have a handful of wired adapters for any rooms or areas that need a hardline. (One room doesn't have wireless capability, but now I just pop one of these in the socket and run a ethernet cable.)

I almost wished I paid more for a pass-through plug.

I was really looking forward to setting up Ubiquity through.

To be honest I had a hard time finding the perfect wireless adapter. No amount of specs would show the real world usuage of an adapter. I went through three before getting this one.

Netgear AC1200 Wi-Fi Adapter High Gain Dual Band USB 3.0 https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00MRVJY1G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_bRWJAbGXH4XCA

It supports 2.4Ghz and 5Ghz. Has good range and data throughput. I would recommend it as the price has even gone down since I purchased it(I payed $95 after taxes, no shipping costs).

Never had an issue with it, never had to unplug and plug it back in. Great latency as all i ever did was play games using it. It even comes with a little dock and cable so you can place it on your desk if you like.

I would also encourage you to use an application like this:

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.assia.sweetspots

You see when using a wireless adapter the data transfer rate can change with every inch you move your wifi adapter. This was a very critical thing for me to learn as I could get 120Mbps in one place but only 40Mbps two inches to the right.

So I used this app to find the perfect sweet spot and taped the dock in place. So I could always have the best possible wifi.

So, after a good hour and a half of research, I decided I really liked the ones you linked me for the price, but I gotta go all out on this. Especially since I may be moving out with a friend soon who will also be a heavy Internet user (Destiny, anime, Netflix streaming, etc).

Ended up going with this model and some surprisingly cheap CAT7 Ethernet cables in the hopes that they will be heavy duty and future proof. From what I've read, both the top-of-the-line adapters and the high-grade cables are super overkill for what I actually have as an Internet setup. But after 3 years of being mocked as the lagging guy in raids, I will do anything for an upgrade.

If these work, I thank you from the bottom of my heart. Thank you for opening my eyes to this solution!

The old case will not fit the GPU and its generally outdated in terms of cooling and layout.Even if the gpu could fit,the case would run hot.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01929ESG6/ In order for it to perform well it must not be plugged into a power strip and it should be part of the same circuit breaker panel.

Gsync is used along with Vsync and also an fps limiter at 142 fps.This way input lag remains extremely low and screen tearing is eliminated.

If you disable Vsync then you get screen tearing.If you do not use an fps limiter with vsync on then if you reach 144fps Vsync takes over and you get huge input lag.(not that huge but big difference).

In overwatch at least,I cannot notice screen tearing on my 144hz monitor even if I try to.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ADYzuMe17q8 this video indirectly explains how to get the most out of the Gsync technology.Data at 8:20

Lastly by using Gsync you reduce the frametime variance.

I cannot vote against Gsync because I have never experienced it.I cannot vote for it also because i definitely do not need it.The monitor below comes with freesync(amd equivalent).Maybe amd can come up with a decent GPU that will be able to run 1440p144hz in the future.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

Type|Item|Price

----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel Core i7-7700K 4.2GHz Quad-Core Processor | $339.99 @ Amazon
CPU Cooler | Scythe Kotetsu 79.0 CFM CPU Cooler | $39.17 @ Amazon
Motherboard | MSI Z270 GAMING M3 ATX LGA1151 Motherboard | $112.98 @ Newegg
Memory | Team Dark 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory | $99.99 @ Newegg
Storage | SK hynix SL308 500GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | $155.99 @ SuperBiiz
Video Card | Gigabyte GeForce GTX 1080 Ti 11GB Gaming OC 11G Video Card | $684.79 @ SuperBiiz
Case | Corsair 270R ATX Mid Tower Case | $57.99 @ Newegg
Power Supply | EVGA 750W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply | $69.99 @ Newegg
Operating System | Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit | $89.99 @ My Choice Software
Case Fan | ARCTIC Arctic F12 74.0 CFM 120mm Fan | $6.48 @ SuperBiiz
Case Fan | ARCTIC Arctic F12 74.0 CFM 120mm Fan | $6.48 @ SuperBiiz
Monitor | AOC I2279VWHE 21.5" 1920x1080 60Hz Monitor | $99.99 @ Best Buy
Monitor | AOC I2279VWHE 21.5" 1920x1080 60Hz Monitor | $99.99 @ Best Buy
Monitor | AOC AG271QX 27.0" 2560x1440 144Hz Monitor | $429.99 @ Best Buy
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total (before mail-in rebates) | $2343.81
| Mail-in rebates | -$50.00
| Total | $2293.81
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-04-28 19:06 EDT-0400 |

You're right. I've never actually used an adapter, as I've always just had PoE switches available. It's nice working for a company with good available resources and funding for dev/prod upgrades often. Makes more sense to put the injector on the switch side. Still, makes no sense to use them over a PoE switch, though.

Why are you assuming I'm using Ubiquiti throughout the whole network? I have an ER-X, that's my only Ubiquiti product at home. I see tons of people recommend other brands, for instance like a TP-Link AC1750 as a decent cheaper alternative to Ubiquiti APs. And look, it doesn't ship with a PoE adapter!! Dang! https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Wireless-Supports-Technology-EAP245/dp/B01N0XZ1TU/ Only ~$80, instead of ~$130 for a UAP-AC-PRO (Which on Amazon it says it doesn't come with a PoE adapter either! https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Networks-UAP-AC-PRO-Access-Included/dp/B079DSW6XX/ ). So here's an one adapter for $20 https://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-PoE150S-Injector-Adapter-compliant/dp/B001PS9E5I/ but wait, it can only push 15W! My Aruba APs can draw up to 25W. So less flexible, gotta get adapters for every AP, gotta power them near the switch, what a hassle.

It'd almost be awesome if there are affordable PoE switches available! Oh, look at this 8-port Gigabit PoE Managed switch for only ~$65! https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Gigabit-Lifetime-compliant-TL-SG108PE/dp/B01BW0AD1W/ whereas a Unifi Switch 8 PoE is ~$110 https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-UniFi-Switch-60W-US-8-60W/dp/B01MU3WUX1/ Plus, you'll probably need the cloudkey if you're gonna use UAPs, so there's another $80. And might as well throw in a USG while you're at it for another $120, since OP needs a router anyways.

So, we could do your Ubiquiti stack:

• UAP-AC-PRO - $130
  
• PoE Injector - $20
  
• USG - $130
  
• Cloudkey - $80
  
• Still will likely need some switch, unless OP has one already. USG doesn't have enough ports. Could get a good ole' Netgear GS108 for $50, only $15 cheaper than the TP-Link PoE version above, which if you're paying $20 to get an injector (and more if you need multiple injectors) that doesn't make much sense does it?
  
  And we'd see that setting up your Ubiquiti network will cost somewhere around $400.
  
  If we do the other brands:
  
  
• TP-Link 1750 - $80
  
• TP-Link SG108PE - $65
  
• We can use an ER-X as our gateway since it's relatively cheap - $60
  
  Wow, look how much simpler that is! And it only cost around $205!
  
  So, remind me again in which section it's cheaper to use the PoE injectors? OP (likely) needs a switch anyways. PoE switch is $15 more expensive than non. But you're paying $20 for one injector anyways (PoE switch is like getting (Edit: 4, not 8) injectors for only $15). Did I miss anything here?

I see yours has a hard drive. That's really really cool--definitely not the usual 5155 fare.

You can do serial connectivity, which is easy and well documented, or you can do the slightly less well documented but way funnier and more future-proof method.

I used this to get my 5150 online.

1. Obtain an Ethernet controller like the NE2000--something that doesn't care too much about the extra lines on the 16-bit portion of the ISA bus. I have personally had best luck with the 3Com Etherlink series, 3C509C to be specific. If this is not an option, there exists Xircom ethernet adapters that plug into a parallel port and you can use one of those instead, though that isn't as fun as an integrated solution.
   
   
2. Install the packet drivers, set your IRQs and I/O ports accordingly. This may prove difficult if you have no way of getting files to it to start with. If you can't write 360K disks, you can attempt to transmit them over serial, which is another task in itself.
   
   
3. Set up mTCP (http://brutman.com/mTCP/) to use the packet driver.
   
   You now have a 5155 that can talk over ethernet. If you connect an external wired to wifi ethernet bridge like this one perhaps you can have a luggable computer with wi-fi access!
   
   Disclosure that I love doing ridiculous things like that--making an Apple II talk to the internet is just as much fun--so please excuse the bias.
   
   Serial transmission will be easier and more era-appropriate if that's what you're after, but ethernet gives you access to the Internet as well as being able to transmit files to it over HTTP or FTP, which is majorly convenient
   

Sorry for this late reply, but I just wanted to mention anecdotally that my experience with the TP LINK AV1200 powerline adapters has been pretty good with the Steam Link, FWIW. And I live in a house from the 1880s. EIGHTEEN eighties, with questionable wiring upgrades since then, but not designed with powerline network in mind.

I'm happy with it since rewiring the house or running cables all over the place are NOT options I would consider.

Definitely if you're going to try to use wireless or powerline rather than wired you'd probably want to lean more toward the newer faster more expensive equipment to have the best chance of a decent experience.

Just informing that this is the equipment I ended up with and my experience has been ok.

The model I used for a church is discontinued and replaced by newer, but the Ubiquiti PowerBeam series are quite nice. Our buildings were around 150ft apart and we have full speed at the receiving end:

Powerbeam

Connect a WAP at the receiving end of the antenna and you have WiFi 500FT away.

Edit: Yeah $200 plus some cabling and install time isn't "Cheap" to some, but you can repurpose them after the party or attach them if you ever do another party. I don't think powerline would do well at 500ft but you can definitely try PowerLine Adapters - Just make sure you catch the same run of electricity that is shared with the house (If the electric is a separate service than the house then these won't work at all

Just to clarify, you're powering it over PoE? I'm new to RPi...so forgive me. Are you using "The Hat" or something like this. The latter seems like a better, cheaper & easier solution to me.

Using any particular distro? Or just plain old Raspbian? And how are you viewing that on the RPi? Just browser session in full screen? RTSP via VLC or some equivalent?

Our office is offsite from this location (accessible over our private WAN though), so would like some ability remote in and troubleshoot if the feed is down or not displaying properly. I'm assuming VNC would be OK for that unless there's a more elegant solution.

Don't know why I didn't think of this before. Theoretically slower throughput than an internal card, but still should have enough to handle pretty much any modern wifi. I would recommend using the wire portion in addition to the stick to get it away from the pc a bit as USB3 and wifi can have interference. Should be fine if you plug the wire in and put the stick on your desk. Can def be more easily removed than an internal, then you can put it in a briefcase handcuffed to your best friends wrist when you don't need it.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

Type|Item|Price

----|:----|:----
CPU | AMD - Ryzen 5 1600 3.2GHz 6-Core Processor | $197.88 @ OutletPC
Motherboard | MSI - B350 TOMAHAWK ATX AM4 Motherboard | $81.98 @ Newegg
Memory | G.Skill - Trident Z 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory | $134.99 @ Newegg
Storage | Western Digital - Blue 500GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | $149.87 @ OutletPC
Storage | Seagate - Barracuda 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $59.99 @ Best Buy
Video Card | EVGA - GeForce GTX 1080 8GB Superclocked Gaming ACX 3.0 Video Card | $549.99 @ SuperBiiz
Case | Fractal Design - Focus G (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case | $59.99 @ NCIX US
Power Supply | EVGA - SuperNOVA NEX 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply | $89.99 @ NCIX US
Operating System | Microsoft - Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit | $92.99 @ B&H
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total | $1417.67
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-08-15 02:29 EDT-0400 |

Same build but 1080ti

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

Type|Item|Price

----|:----|:----
CPU | AMD - Ryzen 5 1600 3.2GHz 6-Core Processor | $197.88 @ OutletPC
Motherboard | MSI - B350 TOMAHAWK ATX AM4 Motherboard | $81.98 @ Newegg
Memory | G.Skill - Trident Z 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory | $134.99 @ Newegg
Storage | Western Digital - Blue 500GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | $149.87 @ OutletPC
Storage | Seagate - Barracuda 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $59.99 @ Best Buy
Video Card | Gigabyte - GeForce GTX 1080 Ti 11GB Gaming OC 11G Video Card | $724.98 @ Newegg
Case | Fractal Design - Focus G (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case | $59.99 @ NCIX US
Power Supply | EVGA - SuperNOVA NEX 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply | $89.99 @ NCIX US
Operating System | Microsoft - Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit | $92.99 @ B&H
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total | $1592.66
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-08-15 02:30 EDT-0400 |

Edit if you need a Wifi adapter this one will be good. Wifi is not recommend for online gaming thought. I would go with a powerline adapter if you have a free ethernet port on your router. I have some of these connecting the devices in my house and they work great.

I use an xbox one. My friend uses a ps4. They're both great and a honestly a lot more comfortable than their previous gen counter parts. Bluetooth also makes them a snap to just start and play. Also the cost has gone way down on them as time has past. If you dint have bluetooth on your computer I highly recommend getting an adapter for USB. https://www.amazon.com/Avantree-Bluetooth-Computer-Keyboard-Warranty/dp/B00VWEK4IG
This is mine, its 12 bucks, you just plug it in and it works. Good luck hoe this helps

I rewired the phone jacks in my house (built 2003). They were all going to a central point in the garage and the builders used Cat 5e, so were easily converted from phone (2 pins) to data (8 pins).

I don't think cat5 was around in the 90's, but not totally sure. If the wiring isn't already there, then yeah it will be a project to wire it, but not impossible if you're comfortable fishing wire and crawling through attics.

Powerline adapters also work great in many homes, depending on the quality of your electrical work and are plug and play. I used to use these as WiFi extenders (before switching to Unifis), and beside rebooting them once a month or so they worked fantastic.

Example of powerline adapter: https://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-Powerline-Pass-Through-TL-PA9020P-KIT/dp/B01H74VKZU/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=powerline+network+adapter&qid=1571690335&s=electronics&sr=1-3

Edit: WiFi has come a long way in the past few years. Invest in a high quality WiFi setup and you may not care about having wired connections anymore.

I was more asking how far the signal has to travel. The big bonus that more expensive cards give you is more range, but if he's only going to be a room away then the range matters a bit less.

If price legitimately doesn't matter and his PC is pretty far away from the router or there are thick walls between the PC and router, this thing gets great reviews:

https://www.amazon.com/ASUS-802-11AC-Wireless-AC3100-Adapter-PCE-AC88/dp/B01H9QMOMY

Never personally used that one, but a lot of people seem to like it. The drivers are a bit wonky though. If that's overkill, I own the card linked below and have never had any issues with it, and for the price I honestly don't know if you can beat it performance-wise. I would recommend it to anyone unless they need some serious range:

https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Archer-Heatsink-Technology-T6E/dp/B016K0896K

Always go with an external antenna on a wire, so you can get the antennas up above your desk, for better line-of-sight.

The Asus PCE-AC88 looks like the most capable offering I can find. 4x4 MIMO is compelling for future-proofing.

The slightly less capable, but also lower-cost Asus PCE-AC68 looks like good hardware as well.

I wish they were Intel-based WiFI, and not Broadcom. But Broadcom drivers have gotten better these past few years.


I'd re-ask this question in both /r/wireless and /r/homenetworking before you spend $100.

i found this excellent product and IT WILL ALLOW YOU TO CONNECT THE APPLE AIRPODS TO PS4!!! Finally a solution that works and is reliable and inexpensive!!!

Avantree aptX Low Latency LONG RANGE Bluetooth 4.1 Adapter for PC, Driver-Free Wireless USB Audio Dongle Transmitter for PS4 Windows 10 7 Linux Mac, M
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01G3J1I5M?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

Step 1 : HARDWARE SET UP
plug the usb dongle into the suppied usb cord and connect both to your Ps4 it will recognize under settings devices> audio devices > input and output both as “usb headset (avantree leaf)”

Step 2: PAIRING APPLE AIRPODS
“PAIR” the Avantree dongle to APPLE AIR PODS by first Placing the dongle in “PAIR MODE” by holding the button on the dongle for 2 seconds. Next MAKE SURE APPLE AIRPODS ARE IN THE CASE AND THE LID IS OPEN press the button on the back of the CASE and hold it until its in “pair mode” while close proximity to the dongle and it should connect automatically.

You will know its connected when the light inside the AIRPOD CASE Turns ORANGE AND the Light on the AVANTREE DONGLE pulsates BLUE.

note DO NOT Use the playstation bluEtooth set up to find AIRPODS

*if you have any issues try to make sure you dont have any other audio devices like Bluetooth speakers in discovery mode while pairing

Step 3: TESTING AUDIO

REMOVE AIRPODS FROM CASE And PLACE THEM IN YOUR EARS. AIRPODS will make a CHIME SOUND in both ears to let you know its they are connected to test the sound ON YOUR PLAYTION 4 controller hold the PS BUTTON FOR THE QUICK MENU Under SOUND DEVICES scroll down to “OUTPUT TO HEAD” and switch it to “ALL AUDIO (this is just to test you DO NOT HAVE TO STAY IN THIS MODE)” if you can hear system Sounds and game sounds you are all set up!

Step 4: VOICE CHAT
to voice chat in a party or in game you need to enable “TALK MODE” on the AVANTREE dongleDOUBLE CLICK the button on the side. The light on the dongle should now STAY SOLID WHITE! Doing this will enable the MICROPHONE on the APPLE AIRPODS for voice chatting.

To MUTE voice just DOUBLE TAP APPLE AIRPOD while in your ears (note doing this takes AVANTREE dongle out of “TALK MODE” DOUBLE TAP the button to enable the microphone agin)

Pressing the side button on the Avantree dongle ONCE reconnects AIRPODS if disconnected**

Any questions feel free to ask em. Enjoy.

I prefer not to recommend, as what may work for someone may not work for you. WiFi is a very situational thing. But I'll give some more information:

First, find out if your router is running (802.11) AC or N or other (G/B?). AC is the most modern, N is still OK. Are you running a 5GHz network or a 2.4GHz network? Is the PC near the router, or a fair bit away? All this makes big differences to your choice of stuff.

If you do not think signal is going to be a problem (eg your phone is full signal in your room), a USB dongle is probably the most optimal starting solution. Preferably one that works fine on default Windows drivers, so you aren't installing unnecessary junk. One with a good cable to reposition as well.

If you think signal will be a bit weak, try the PCIe option. Reason is the antenna's are bigger and better, and if needs be they are replaceable with more suitable ones.

This little guy appears to mix the best of both worlds. However, I think you'd want a USB 3.0 extension wire according to the top comment...

I personally use a bridge. If you don't have reasonable network knowledge, don't go near one. Mine took a few hours over the course of a few weeks to fully stabilise and tweak. However, if you want a little challenge in the future, have a go. It'll be able to overcome most all issues people have with WiFi if you get it right.

Best no hassle solution. A powerline adapter and a pair of suitable length ethernet cables.

Definitely a consideration for me. Having my son at the time crawling/walking/grabbing/chewing/slobbering on everything makes you put away anything you don't want broken real quick.

I ended up being so pleased with the little Topping amp and the Dayton speakers though it's what I still prefer over the older Carver stuff.

Haven't tried the a5+ so can't give any feedback there. For bluetooth though I bought [a little bluetooth receiver just like this one:] (https://www.amazon.com/Bluetooth-Streaming-Esinkin-Wireless-Speakers/dp/B016NUTG5K/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1486673883&sr=8-5&keywords=bluetooth+receiver) and it has worked great for me. So whatever you end up with adding bluetooth is super easy.

As you stated correctly, someone with a bigger wallet might not agree or understand. I've always gone by the logic though that a good stereo is one that gets listened to. My everyday life for the foreseeable future (7 year old kid, 3 month old puppy and not a huge house) doesn't really fit into having a dedicated listening room/area with high end components. So until then I want something that makes me want to listen to my music. The setup I have right now does exactly that.

Asus makes some excellent PCI-E Wi-Fi cards. I have a PCE-AC56 and it has worked flawlessly for me for over two and a half years. It's well within your price range and it offers excellent performance. If you're looking for something a bit more powerful, the PCE-AC68 is basically the upgrade to the PCE-AC56, and I can only assume it performs slightly better. A final choice is to go balls to the wall overkill with the PCE-AC88, which I find hard recommending unless you need massive range and signal strength, which doesn't seem to be something you require. It's also out of your stated price range, so this one is entirely up to you. Any one of these should handily solve your problem. If you're looking for a good quality Wi-Fi solution that doesn't take advantage of your wallet like a prison bitch, the PCE-AC56 is a great choice.

actually, IMO the best answer is a ethernet powerline adapter. The way this works is that it distributes the internet LAN signal through the electrical power outlets. The way this should be set up is when you purchase it you receive 2 units. 1 unit should be by the router, the other in the location of desired internet (in your case your room). It is extremely easy to set up and I was able to buy a unit for 30 bucks. I pay for 100Mbps service and constintatly have download speeds of 50 on my ps4 using this. If you go this route, which I recommend, I would make sure the unit is connected DIRECTLY to the wall, not to a powerstrip. The powerstrip acts like a "wireless booster" and reduces your speeds. IF you only have one outlet some products do have a jack built in so it doesn't even take up an outlet. Example below:

https://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-Powerline-Pass-through-TL-PA8010P-KIT/dp/B00Y3QPG1A/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1474644742&sr=8-3&keywords=ethernet+powerline+adapter

Please note I realize this one is not in the $30 range I just wanted to give you an example.

EDIT: TL;DR Poweline ethernet adapter > 1000 FT ethernet cable. Check out link for example - there are cheaper models that work great.

Few different build variants depending on your cousin's needs.

Note that this motherboard only has 2 PCIe slots, so you might not want to use a wifi adapter that's PCIe (I personally am partial to this IOGEAR ethernet-wifi adapter, but it's only 150mbps and the 300mbps version is more expensive at $44 bucks).

Special mention that the RAM is known to work with the motherboard.

　

4core/8thread CPU + 250GB SSD + 1TB HDD:

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

Type|Item|Price

----|:----|:----
CPU | AMD - Ryzen 5 1400 3.2GHz Quad-Core Processor | $157.49 @ SuperBiiz
Motherboard | ASRock - AB350M Pro4 Micro ATX AM4 Motherboard | $77.98 @ Newegg
Memory | GeIL - EVO POTENZA 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2400 Memory | $93.99 @ Newegg
Storage | SK hynix - SL308 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | $77.89 @ OutletPC
Storage | Western Digital - Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $48.44 @ OutletPC
Video Card | Asus - GeForce GTX 1050 Ti 4GB Phoenix Video Card | $129.99 @ Newegg
Power Supply | Corsair - CXM 450W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply | $26.99 @ Newegg
Operating System | Microsoft - Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit | $89.89 @ OutletPC
Wireless Network Adapter | Asus - PCE-AC55BT PCI-Express x1 802.11a/b/g/n/ac Wi-Fi Adapter | $31.90 @ Amazon
Case Fan | Cooler Master - R4-S8R-20AK-GP 28.9 CFM 80mm Fan | $4.99 @ Newegg
Monitor | Asus - VS228T-P 21.5" 1920x1080 60Hz Monitor | $89.99 @ SuperBiiz
Mouse | Redragon - Centrophorus M601 Wired Optical Mouse | $12.99 @ Amazon
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total (before mail-in rebates) | $887.53
| Mail-in rebates | -$45.00
| Total | $842.53
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-06-26 04:04 EDT-0400 |

　

4core/8thread CPU + 120GB SSD + 3TB HDD:

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

Type|Item|Price

----|:----|:----
CPU | AMD - Ryzen 5 1400 3.2GHz Quad-Core Processor | $157.49 @ SuperBiiz
Motherboard | ASRock - AB350M Pro4 Micro ATX AM4 Motherboard | $77.98 @ Newegg
Memory | GeIL - EVO POTENZA 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2400 Memory | $93.99 @ Newegg
Storage | Kingston - A400 120GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | $51.99 @ Amazon
Storage | Seagate - Barracuda 3TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $89.89 @ OutletPC
Video Card | Asus - GeForce GTX 1050 Ti 4GB Phoenix Video Card | $129.99 @ Newegg
Power Supply | Corsair - CXM 450W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply | $26.99 @ Newegg
Operating System | Microsoft - Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit | $89.89 @ OutletPC
Wireless Network Adapter | Asus - PCE-AC55BT PCI-Express x1 802.11a/b/g/n/ac Wi-Fi Adapter | $31.90 @ Amazon
Case Fan | Cooler Master - R4-S8R-20AK-GP 28.9 CFM 80mm Fan | $4.99 @ Newegg
Monitor | Asus - VS228T-P 21.5" 1920x1080 60Hz Monitor | $89.99 @ SuperBiiz
Mouse | Redragon - Centrophorus M601 Wired Optical Mouse | $12.99 @ Amazon
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total (before mail-in rebates) | $903.08
| Mail-in rebates | -$45.00
| Total | $858.08
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-06-26 04:12 EDT-0400 |

　

faster 4core/8thread CPU with better cooler + 120GB SSD + 2TB HDD:

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

Type|Item|Price

----|:----|:----
CPU | AMD - Ryzen 5 1500X 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor | $176.99 @ SuperBiiz
Motherboard | ASRock - AB350M Pro4 Micro ATX AM4 Motherboard | $77.98 @ Newegg
Memory | GeIL - EVO POTENZA 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2400 Memory | $93.99 @ Newegg
Storage | Kingston - A400 120GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | $51.99 @ Amazon
Storage | Seagate - Barracuda 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $66.89 @ OutletPC
Video Card | Asus - GeForce GTX 1050 Ti 4GB Phoenix Video Card | $129.99 @ Newegg
Power Supply | Corsair - CXM 450W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply | $26.99 @ Newegg
Operating System | Microsoft - Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit | $89.89 @ OutletPC
Wireless Network Adapter | Asus - PCE-AC55BT PCI-Express x1 802.11a/b/g/n/ac Wi-Fi Adapter | $31.90 @ Amazon
Case Fan | Cooler Master - R4-S8R-20AK-GP 28.9 CFM 80mm Fan | $4.99 @ Newegg
Monitor | Asus - VS228T-P 21.5" 1920x1080 60Hz Monitor | $89.99 @ SuperBiiz
Mouse | Redragon - Centrophorus M601 Wired Optical Mouse | $12.99 @ Amazon
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total (before mail-in rebates) | $899.58
| Mail-in rebates | -$45.00
| Total | $854.58
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-06-26 04:16 EDT-0400 |

If you purchased a PowerLine adapter a long time ago, you probably had a PowerLine adapter with the original HomePlug AV1 specification. In short, AV1 sucked hard, and gave PowerLine adapters a bad rap.

The new PowerLine adapters with the HomePlug AV2 specification are more than capable of providing stability to online games. I use a set of 1000Mbps NETGEAR adapters, and I do not have this issue in any other game, just Rocket League, which leads me to believe that the game sends information too frequently at higher framerates. I don't have any packet loss issues when capped at 60FPS, but because I have a 144Hz monitor it looks very choppy without at least 144FPS.

As for your solution, that's what I used to do when I had a larger bedroom closer to our networking gear. Now I do not; because I've been going to higher ed for the past few years, my sister has taken over my old room, which makes perfect sense since I'm not there most of the year. My new room is too far to pass an Ethernet cable to (and too small for a desktop), so I situate my desktop in our living room and use a PowerLine adapter.

Thank you for the suggestion though! I appreciate the politeness, your English is great for someone who isn't a native speaker.

If you've got a PCI slot on your mobo free you can get a wireless card to put in there for sure. Like this.
You could also get an Ethernet Over Power kit like this. You'd plug one into an outlet near your router, and run an ethernet cable from the router to it. Then plug the second one in near your PC, and connect to it with your ethernet cable. Voila. I've never used them, but I have a friend who uses one with great success.

I got you. I have a similar setup. So here’s what you need.


Wilson Electronics Wideband Directional Antenna 700-2700 MHz, 50 Ohm (314411) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00J14YEHQ/

Buy two of these. Place on a pole as high as you can get it. Mount them 45° and -45°. That’s how LTE is polarized.

Example: https://www.solwise.co.uk/images/images3g/4g-ren6702709-lpda-5.png


Heavy Duty Weather Proof Multi... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N4FSKZM

Put the M1 in this on the pole too.

Use this to send power up the Outdoor cat6 cable:


TP-LINK TL-PoE150S PoE Injector Adapter, IEEE 802.3af Compliant, up to 100 Meters (325 Feet) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001PS9E5I/

And this to pull the power out of the Cat6


ANVISION Gigabit PoE Splitter,... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07PW9FJNT

Then convert the mini to USB C:


ARKTEK USB-C Adapter, USB Type C (Male) to Micro USB (Female) Syncing Data Transfer and Charging Converter for Chromebook Galaxy S10 Note 9, Pixel 3 and More (Black/White, Pack of 4) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01I0ZAJXO/

Ok.

That’ll get you where you want. Don’t get a booster or anything else. It’ll make your signal slower.

Put the whole thing on the pole because if you leave it inside you’ll get a lot of signal loss along those long cables.

———

Now the M1 is a 4x4 MIMO which claims it can get you gigabit speeds. But once you plug in the external antennas you’ll get 2x2 MIMO. the only way to solve this is a bit hacky.

You’ll need this:

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F183651187710

(This isn’t me but it’s the only guy I’ve seen selling these wires)

Then you’ll need two of these:

weBoost Outdoor Directional Yagi Antenna with N Female Connector 301111 for 700/800/900 MHz Band https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0006H4FVM/

These will be you MAIN antennas. While the other covered ones will be your additional.

To explain. LTE towers send out 45° 800mhz, -45° 800mhz, 45° 2700 MHz, and -45° 2700 MHz You need an antenna for each. This will get you the fastest speed and best reliability. But this is hacky. I haven’t done this, YET. I’ve just planned it all out. I’m using a LB1211 with two covered yagis. I’ve gotten up to 70mbps with just that 2x2 setup (in a valley).

I plan on getting an M1 with 4 antennas soon, but right now my pole situation sucks. I need to figure out a better solution first. Then I’ll be comfortable spending that much more money. But just getting those two covered yagis and putting you M1 up until the pole, you’ll get a much better issue

If what you care about is picking up a weak wifi signal you are probably better off with an external USB wifi adapter with actual antennas. From my reading on these, these can make a huge actual difference, and transform a wonky connection to a rock solid one.

Something like this - this is just a cheap one, if you are focused on range, read reviews and get one with the best range. But key is, you want something with a big honking antenna on it.

There are also repeaters, although I think if you just have one device you need range on, you are better off the USB external adapter route.

There are also "pocket routers" like the HooToo TripMate that /u/age_of_bronze mentions, and I have on of these myself- a TP-LINK WR710N which from the look of it is pretty similar to the HooToo. These are great for setting up a private network or to share an internet connection that is limited to one device, and they may indeed provide a modicum of range extension, but if range, specifically, is your goal, you are better off with something with a significant antenna and probably a USB adapter.

I'm currently in the process of upgrading my home network and have a similar problem. I'm renting and understand not being able to run a cord across the house. I've been using the top end powerline adapter (TP-link AV2000) and getting 60-70Mbps. I've read that this can be much better or worse just depending on your house wiring. I just quickly tried an Ookla speedtest with a MoCa 2.0 adapter and was able to get all of my 200Mbps internet connection. So it's at least that fast. I have a MocA 2.5 adapter coming in the mail today and I'm going to run an iPerf3 test on all three solution to see their full bandwidth. MoCa was the best solution for me. Other possible solutions:

1. Move the router, NAS, and workstation all into the same room and wire them with ethernet
   
2. Put a nice 4x4 AC router in the middle of the house and use 4x4 adapters on the NAS and workstation (or hardwire one of them). This won't be gigabit but can still be pretty fast. There might be fastest Wifi 6 hardware out now, but it's hard for me to keep up. It's still very early days for Wifi 6.
   
3. If they insist on a wireless solution and can't get a good connection to their workstation with a single router, the Orbi RBK50 is the fastest mesh solution.
   
   So I'd rank possible solutions:
   
   Wired Ethernet > MoCa > 4x4 Single AC Router with a strong signal to workstation > Orbi > Powerline

Powerline adapters are not the greatest and you never get the speeds advertised on the box, but it is a cheaper solution and can be used to connect two routers via powerline. You'll also have to play with settings on the upstairs router (whether you choose the EA6100 or the comcast modem/router) to turn it into a wifi access point or not to assign DHCP.
Best long term solution would be to run the CAT6 cable inside walls and make jacks. (Same playing with routers will have to happen, but you'll have done it already for the powerline.) It's not a major remodel and can be done with some simple HomeDepot tools/supplies. It would add to the value of your building.

I don't own a Companion 2, so I can't say for sure, but I do own a companion 1 & wifi has always been super unreliable for me. I tried drivers for win 8, 8.1 & now 10 & it never wants to stay connected or connect at all. I finally broke down & bought a usb wifi adapter & it's been working perfectly ever since.

This is the one I bought back in 2015, they probably have nicer ones now:
https://amazon.com/TP-Link-Wireless-Adapter-Raspberry-TL-WN823N/dp/B0088TKTY2/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1484011701&sr=8-3&keywords=wifi+usb+tp+link

Hi Reddit,

I am not yet an audiophile, but have been doing some research as I'm inheriting a hi-fi system comprised of the following:

-Luxman M-113 stereo amplifier

-Luxman M-120A stereo amplifier

-Counterpoint SA-5000 Preamplifier with power supply

-2 VPMS RM1 speakers (8 Ohms)

-Pro-Ject Audio Debut Carbon turntable

I live in an apartment, so it is completely unrealistic to keep all this gear. I have the option to keep/buy more/sell existing hardware however I see fit in order to achieve the following two goals:

1. Ability to stream via Bluetooth audio from a record on the turntable to the VPMS RM1 speakers on the other side of the living room. I don't mind minor quality degradation due to bluetooth, but absolutely cannot run wire and the turntable will not be placed near receiver.
   
   
2. As small of a hardware footprint as possible. System does not need to be loud.
   
   After some research I have found these three products - will they, in combination, allow me to achieve my goals? Maybe I'm on the right track but chose terrible hardware?
   
   
3. A turntable preamp which the Debut Carbon will go directly into - something like https://www.amazon.ca/Pyle-Pro-PP444-Compact-Turntable-Preamp/dp/B004HJ1TTQ/ref=sr_1_2
   
   
4. Bluetooth audio transmitter which the preamp will out to - something like https://www.amazon.ca/Bluetooth-Streaming-Esinkin-Wireless-Receiver/dp/B016NUTG5K/ref=pd_ybh_a_4
   
   
5. Bluetooth compatible audio receiver - something like https://www.amazon.ca/Pyle-Pro-PDA5BU-Bluetooth-Amplifier-Readers/dp/B00LI4L1LO/ref=sr_1_4
   
   Also if anyone has any idea how much those amps & preamps might be worth used please let me know. I would probably lean towards keeping them in storage though, so I can appreciate them when I have room to actually have them out. The turntable and speakers I can keep as is I probably?

I would have chosen this one . Compare them and see which one you like.

Also, this card looks pretty good if you don't mind the money. I don't have a first had experience with it like I do with the rosewill.

If you want one that works almost as well but slower consider this one. Once again I'm only suggesting these from reviews/stats. Hope I helped you, and good luck with your build.

It's an EyeDro.

http://eyedro.com/home-electricity-monitors/

Basically, you install it in your load panel and then it gives you an estimate of how much power you use. It's not 100% accurate, maybe 95% or so (?), but it's good enough.

Don't get the wireless version, instead get the basic one and a wireless extender like this which is cheaper (although now you have two devices to plug in).

I now also have an Ecobee3 thermostat which has awesome reports, much better than my old Nest.

For an AC1900, get the Archer C9, it is the same price, but newer model, and it's amazing. AND it's on sale right now, didn't realize that!!! (I bought it when it wasn't on sale).

I typically recommend the Archer C7 AC1750 to people. The Archer C5 AC1200 for people on a budget, but I didn't realize that the C5 and C7 are about the same price now, so might as well get the C7 instead of C5.

Here is a good combo for you. Archer C9 + 16x4 Modem. You should get it while it's on sale! $149.39.

Controller companion is awesome but don't use it to use a PS4 controller for The Division. It emulates a keyboard so there's no aim assist and the speed it moves the camera and stuff is insane. Like a 10,000 DPI mouse. lol


Use DS4Windows IF you play The Division from the couch. It emulates an Xbox controller. Plays just like your PS4 then.

Get a good Bluetooth dongle. I have one that works anywhere in the house and another that struggles at 10 feet with clear line of sight.

This one has a 164 foot range. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00VWEK4IG/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B00VWEK4IG&linkCode=as2&tag=tcbse-20

I don't think anyone's helped you on your internet question, so here's some help:

I was in the same boat and what I ended up doing was after a few hours of research, getting a powerline adapter, this one to be specific, as a powerline adapter doesn't cripple your speeds as much as regular wifi or a repeater/extender does.

Regarding how and why I chose the TP-Link AV2000, it had really good reviews and it's apparently the fastest option if you need a good, reliable connection/speeds. You could cheap out on this but expect the opposite result. As a competitive FPS gamer (csgo, h1z1, pubg, etc), any potential loss of connection can ruin your game, so if you do these things, it will help to get a better powerline adapter.

Keep in mind you'll need two ethernet cables (CAT-4-6 should work, depends on your internet speed (one that connects from one of these units into your modem, and another one from the other unit into your ethernet port on your computer)), two unused wall-plugs (highly recommended not to plug either unit into, eg: a power strip, because then there will be interference which can cause issues), and of course the powerline adapters.

Also be aware that the closer the distance between the two units, the better the connection/speed. So if you're upstairs and the router/modem is downstairs like what it is for me, connect the first unit as close upstairs as possible (of course with the extent of how far your cable is (I had a 30ft one)) and the other one as close to it and to your computer as possible.

AMA if you need any more help regarding the above (or even build help).

That's an "N" router/WiFi and it's slow by today's standards. It advertises 300 Mbps WiFi throughput, which you will never get.

You need an AC protocol WiFi. A new router/WiFi, TP-Link C5 or C7 are both inexpensive, good and reliable.

There are other options but cost a bit more and are a little bit more complex to set up.

A few things to keep in mind when setting up a new WiFi. Always manually set the WiFi channel(s). For the 2.4 Ghz, choose channel 1, 6 or 11, whichever is least congested. For 5 Ghz, choose one that is least congested or empty. Android has a "WiFi analyzer" app that will give you this info.

Choose as best you can a central location for the new WiFi and use a ethernet cable for devices where it makes sense and is possible, AppleTV comes to mind as a good candidate. Video streaming is best on wire.

Can you find a display that is powered from the RPi itself? If so, then you can power the RPi from this device for $11.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MDLUSE7/

Here are two comments from this Amazon page:

I bought this for a FingBox (5v 2A, micro USB) and it works great! Also hooked it up to a RPi3 with the RPi touch display. Worked just fine, but I must admit I didn't leave it running long, just booted it up. Using this w/ the FingBox saves me from using an AC outlet in my server closet which are in short supply. Must use 48V POE on the switch.

Works perfectly. My switch recognizes it as a class 3 PoE device, and typically consuming 3.1 to 3.5 watts of power. It plugged right into my pi (with a 3.5" display) and so far I have not found any problems.
The only thing I'd mention is there's no clear indication of which network connection faces the switch, and which faces the client device. I took a guess that with the male RJ45 and micro-usb cable being the same length, that was where the pi should go, and I was correct. (I include a picture of the "correct" manner of connecting it.)

Hope this helps.

I'm not 100% sure on the rotation, want to say yes it still did, but don't want to give you any false info - I'm pretty sure it was not all or nothing, rather just alot of strange behavior - but it sure sounds like the same problem. The difference was night and day - once i switched, I now never lose tracking - for instance if I go out of headset sight, i don't notice because the controllers always pickup instantly - point being you'll know if you do something to get it corrected, it won't be "maybe it's better"

I should mention i went overboard to solve the issue - got rid of all wireless gadgets hooked up to the PC - keyboard/mouse (went wired), wifi off, onboard BT off, etc - but i can't confirm any of that made a difference since i did this all at once when i got the bluetooth adapter. But after doing all that, i've said in other posts tracking went from maybe 4/10 to a 10/10. Before it worked often enough to make me think that's just how it was.

I would def lose the extension, eliminate any variables.

for reference, here's the dongle i picked up - it might reveal something despite the fact yours is approved and should be fine.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00VWEK4IG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The CPU cooler is very pricey. Unless you want to be doing some serious overclocking or running really low temps, then you can save quite a bit on a Cooler Master Hyper 212 Plus or Evo.

Similarly with the PSU. Are you sure you want a modular PSU (i.e. you only plug in the cables you need.) If not, then something like this is cheaper and offers plenty of overhead for future crossfiring.

You will need to buy a PCI wireless card, you could get a USB one, but they're not as good. They're very cheap though.

P.S. I just bought that video card from dabs.com and although it hasn't arrived yet so I can't comment on the card itself, you can get it for £210 with the code SEPT10 and you also get a couple of free games, which makes it pretty good value for money.

As others have said, simply search Amazon for "Bluetooth Receiver" and pick one you like in a price range you can afford. You will find hundreds of them.

https://www.amazon.com/s?k=bluetooth+receiver&ref=nb_sb_noss_1

And then using, most likely, RCA-RCA cable of the appropriate length, connect the Bluetooth Adapter to the CD Input on the Amp, and logically select CD on the front panels source selector of the Amp.

https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-2-Male-RCA-Audio-Cable/dp/B01D5H8P0G/

Though there are many similar RCA-RCA Cables to choose from -

https://www.amazon.com/s?k=RCA+cable&i=electronics&ref=nb_sb_noss_2

You would prefer to have a Bluetooth Adapter that supports version 4.0 or higher, and that has the APT-X or APT-X HD feature.

The ESINKEN and the LOGITECH look pretty much identical, check the specs, but likely either one will do, both about $22 -

https://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Bluetooth-Audio-Adapter-Streaming/dp/B00IQBSW28/

https://www.amazon.com/Bluetooth-Adapter-Streaming-Wireless-Speakers/dp/B016NUTG5K/

Range on the above is pretty much standard at 30ft to 50ft line-of-sight.

There are better Bluetooth Devices, but they cost a bit more money -

https://www.amazon.com/Avantree-Bluetooth-Transmitter-Receiver-Certified/dp/B01H6I3YGK/

https://www.amazon.com/Avantree-Bluetooth-Transmitter-Receiver-Simultaneously/dp/B07BQYYDNJ/

Again, how far do you want to take it, because there are Bluetooth Devices that can go well above $100.

Some devices of the same class work better than others. A N300 adapter should be able to max out at around 30MB per second, which is plenty and probably higher than your internet bandwidth. If you transfer large files on a local network an AC wifi adaptor might be better.
I don't know any good Linux compatible ones off hand, but this N300 one might have better range.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JDVRCI0?m=A1K5RDMQ6V4659

Anyways good luck.

VDSL (aka extended reach ethernet) would be the most robust as you don't have midspan unit. I've had great luck with the startech units, these look like carbon copies of those units for $100 less--

https://www.amazon.com/Tupavco-Ethernet-Extender-Kit-Repeater-VDSL/dp/B01BOD8C9W/

Otherwise, PoE powered switch/repeater midspan sounds like the ticket. Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Extender-Gigabit-IEEE802-3af-Security-Splitter/dp/B07FMNHYP8

And an injector:

https://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-PoE150S-Injector-Adapter-Compliant/dp/B001PS9E5I

Having something that needs an outlet to plug into halfway just feels half baked. 398 feet I'd roll the dice on forcing 10/100 first to see if it works. I've had gigabit work over longer.

yes, if you would have gone for something like this, you would have got better numbers than A7000 which is limited by USB performance.

​

Internal cards are PCie based which is much higher performance than USB2.0 and even USB3.0.

one example,

https://www.amazon.com/ASUS-802-11AC-Wireless-AC3100-Adapter-PCE-AC88/dp/B01H9QMOMY/

​

I would not recommend any specific solution as everything has some or other problem.

​

other solution is you get a triband extender with ethernet port to get even better numbers. an example is NETGEAR EX8000 and plug in your PC to the LAN port.

https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-Nighthawk-Tri-Band-Extender-EX8000/dp/B074F3M2W8/

​

**Other big question** you need to answer is whether your ISP router is even capable of gigabit performance on Wireless. I think Zyxcel C3000Z has pretty crappy wireless performance. You are better off with 3rd Party router.

​

​

Correct, a more sensitive receiver will pick up those fainter signals from further away. The issue is that the higher dBi gain an antenna is rated for, the higher directionality it is. The problem with getting too directional is that the cone of signal it is looking at could move around too much while on a boat. Tide, boat wake, people shifting on boat, etc, could all move the cone away from the area the access point is. You could try the parabolic reflector antennas, but you would select a dBi gain based on what the current antenna is. For example, if the antenna in your device is 2dBi (pretty common), look for a 9dBi directional antenna.

Alfa networks make powerful usb wifi adapters that include decent omnidirecitonal antennas, and this one here even has a good directional antenna included as well.

Okay, last question lol. Becuase I'm tight on budget, the A2+ might be my best bet right now. If I go with that and buy a Bluetooth receiver, would any of the following suffice?

• Bose
  
• Inateck
  
• Logitech
  
  
• Esinkin
  
  Really appreciate your help with all of this!

Couple of options:

• To mooch wifi from free hotspots / friends, you can do that with a regular laptop / phone. To boost your range, you'll most likely want a wifi booster of some kind. Traditional wifi boosters would look like: Big wifi antenna -> black box -> smaller wifi antenna inside the van -> your laptop/phone
  
• A cheaper version of a booster is to "make" one. Get a Yagi wifi antenna + a wifi adapter then connect the adapter to your laptop via USB. It's a bit more involved to do this for your phone. Just remember you have to point the antenna to the wifi source to get the best signal
  
• Get a 3G/4G/Mifi box which will connect to a cellular network and output a wifi hotspot you can connect to. If the signal is sparse, you can try getting a 3G Yagi antenna and plugging it into the 3g box though I'm less sure about that and am currently looking into it myself since those boxes typically have two antennas (one for receiving and one for transmitting I believe)
  
• Tether your phone to your laptop and get 3G/4G internet that way

You don't need a $125 AIO cooler to prevent overheating lol. That cooler would be for if you wanted to OC that bad boy up to 5.0ghz or something.

With a 23in 1080p monitor, you really don't need much. If I were you, I'd upgrade to a 27in 1440p 144hz monitor for the best gaming experience. Key here is to get either a Freesync or Gsync monitor, coupled with the correct GPU. I personally use a BenQ 27in model that's 1440p/144hz with an rx 470 8gb GPU (freesync). I have never had such a good gaming experience as to 144hz and Freesync, honestly, it's that good! edit-it also has incredible color accuracy for being a TN panel, better than my IPS panel next to it.

Don't spend $2300 on something only to look at it through a 23in shitty monitor. That's just ludicrous.

I dunno what your homework entails, or how intensive your art would be, but my guess is the 7700k would do just fine for that. The 1700 really shines when it comes to video encoding, virtualization, multi-tasking, etc etc. It games perfectly well, but with an Nvidia GPU you'll notice better framerates on the 7700k (at the high end). The one key thing about 1700 gaming performance, and this is entirely subjective but often repeated by actual owners...is that the 1700 is really* smooth. Like...really smooth to game with. No lag, no jittering, it's really immersive that way. It's probably because the CPU has so much overhead to it.

Anyways, give this WiFi card a look if you absolutely demand the best signal. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01H9QMOMY/?tag=pcpapi-20

Laptops are nice because everything is wrapped up into one thing, so you don't need to buy everything (monitor, mouse, keyboard, etc). Unfortunately they just don't offer the same performance and reliability as a desktop does.

Do you have a desk to use for this? I think I have a decent computer picked out, but if your budget needs to factor in a desk we're in trouble. The desktop is on Newegg, but the rest is Amazon so you will be able to use your card.

Realistically I would expect this desktop to last 2-3 years until you might want to change something. This is the nice thing about desktops, you can generally add/change parts as you go instead of buying an entirely new computer. I wouldn't say you're expecting too much, but realize this computer is on the lower end but capable. You should be able to do everything you've listed to some degree. Some things (like editing video) may go slow because it does have a budget processor.

Here's the links to the parts so far. We can tweak things as needed.

Computer Adapter Monitor Speakers = ~$435

A note on the speakers, you may be able to get even cheaper ones (if you even need them), though usually cheaper speakers have a "buzzing noise." However, Amazon has these and the reviews seem great.

Another note, you could save $10 on the adapter too, since it seems you won't be needing a great connection. That is up to you though. Here's a cheaper one.

You know what, that's an excellent point. I'm thinking I might free up my M1 B+ now. Are there any particular adapter brands that you recommend for solid performance? (It seems the one you linked is out of stock currently.)

Edit: Seems like this is the most popular option currently. Any personal experience with it?

This question should be asked in /r/HomeNetworking not here but idgaf so...

A router can be used as an access point if you can connect them via ethernet, not wireless. That would be your best option. If you can't connect the two routers via ethernet then what you're after is called a range extender. This device will pickup your current signal and extend it. Here's one to get you started: NETGEAR N300 Wi-Fi Range Extender, Essentials Edition (EX2700)


Better than a range extender would be a powerline access point like these: 500Mbps or 1000Mbps

I think staying with 6 is fine. Most people will say if you are wiring now to go with 6a because the cost is similar but I find it is thicker and harder to bend. If you really want to future proof then you could go with 6a but right know 10Gbps is a little excessive.


AP wise you call Ubiquity expensive but the newest UAP-AC-PRO is the same price as the Linksys and will be much better, it is hard to find now because of limited supply. Sorry Its actually $20 more



I would spend a little extra for the Edgerouter Lite over the X but they are similar.



Unless I missed it I don't think you mentioned how many wall jacks you will have. So I will assume 24 drops. A good 24 port non POE switch is This normally $160 is on sale for $100
And This for POE only 8 ports though

EDIT

Sorry didn't release the netgear switch wasn't all POE you might be better off with a cheap 8-10 Port switch and POE Injectors


Like /u/topcat5 said you can get UAP-AC-LITE for $90.

You have your FiOS router plugged into the WAN1 port? Does you FiOS router have a WAN port of its own? I think technically the Ubiquiti ports can be configured for anything but you might as well use the suggested ports.

On my Ubiquiti switches it shows my modem/router as an uplink port. Does your USG show your FiOS as the same? I would definitely start by making sure DHCP and Firewall are turned off on the FiOS router. You basically want to turn it into a modem-only.

If it's anything like the crap Comcast tried to get me to use I'd suggest scrapping their setup and get yourself a replacement that just does modem duty. I have never used Verizon's FiOS so I am not sure the setup but I am sure a quick Google could link you to several verified alternatives. Maybe even something like this? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B013J7OBUU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_ep_dp_GYTLAbHZZ9SVJ

Okay I'm reading you now. That's helpful. You gotta understand, from the way your post was worded, it sounded like you were wanting to move off of CCA as a whole-house audio solution and wondering if Sonos could fill that void.

It sounds like you simply need a way to get PC audio to the Play:5 Aux port wirelessly. Assuming you can't find a used CCA (honestly, I think you'll be able to find these online for a long time if you look in the right places), you could just use a bluetooth adapter. I probably would've gone that route before using a CCA, anyway, since it's OS and browser-agnostic. It'll route ALL computer audio to the Play:5, not just those sources that the CCA can handle.

Good luck.

Wow, i feel like we are issue twins :D * excuse the humor *

I had exactly similer issue 6 monthes ago wifi was highly capped on my laptob at around 4 - 7 mb/s while my other devices are 40 - 50 mb/s

anyhow for me at least it was internal card issue maybe weaken over time or something,

another reason for you maybe that your intenal card is forced to use 802.1g/b please check next time you in hotel which gives you terrible bandwidth options ( go to task mamanger - > Performance tab - > wifi -> look for connection type ) .

MY SOLUTION :

i bought 2 cheap USB adapters : TP link's Wn722n and Wn823n each 24 $ or something

and Ta da, my speed was up to roof back to normal range of other devices (using the antenna based wn722n right now), i dont really suggest it unless u dont mind the size but overall i had better range with it than with wn823n, please hence both are single band 2.4 .
Links :

wn823n : https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0088TKTY2/

wn722n : https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-TL-WN722N-Wireless-network-Adapter/dp/B002SZEOLG

if money aint a big issue i still suggest the Alfa dual long range because its state of art and long term usage friendly and when you get bored of it easy sell used .

Sure, It has two modes:

• Screen Mirroring. What's on the screen is on the TV.
  
  
• Video Casting. Sends the video link to the Chromecast while freeing up the phone for other duties. (ie... Watch a video on TV and surf /r/nexus6 on the phone at the same time.)
  
  It's way better then using an HDMI cable and no wireless infrastructure is needed. Just a phone or computer and a TV with a Chromecast plugged in.
  
  Now if you want your mind blown? You can also plug a Chromecast into an Ethernet cable with:
  
  http://www.amazon.com/Plugable-Micro-B-Ethernet-Raspberry-AX88772A/dp/B00RM3KXAU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1452045205&sr=8-1&keywords=chromecast+ethernet+adapter
  
  Or a monitor or stereo system with:
  
  http://www.amazon.com/Belkin-Compatible-Chromecast-Chromebooks-B2B137-BLK/dp/B00Z4TQ64Q/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1452045205&sr=8-3&keywords=chromecast+ethernet+adapter
  
  It works well with games too. There is one caveat though. It's best used with a TV that supports 1080p,

There isn't really much to it. You can either use a PoE capable network switch or get a PoE injector. Just have that inside somewhere safe near a mains socket and the Cat5 plugged into the output will run outside and into the enclosure. The PoE splitter I linked above then splits out the power, regulates it to 5V and terminates in a RJ45 plug for Ethernet + micro-USB plug for power. Not all PoE splitters will regulate down to 5V so check before buying it. Just plug both wires into the RPi and you're good to go. The RPi doesn't know or care that it is using PoE because it is all handled before it sees anything. There is a PoE HAT for the RPi but it is far more expensive and you don't gain anything useful apart from it screwing onto the top of the RPi as a HAT.

> Enclosing stuff would be great, assuming you can also dissipate the heat.

I've not had any problems with heat buildup. If it is in direct sunlight and acting like a mini greenhouse then you might need to work out some way of shading it. You want a certain amount of heat anyway to ensure no condensation and so it doesn't get too cold during the winter.

Just get some actual PoE equipment. You can get a nice Netgear switch that does PoE for only $65. This would be a good choice if you think you might have more PoE devices in the future.

An cheaper solution would be to get a PoE injector.

There are a number of active PoE dongles out there, too that would work with the Pi, as far as powering it.

Another option on the Pi end is a HAT specifically designed for this purpose.

Depending on which way you go, it looks like you could do it as cheaply as $30.

I would recommend against what the other commenter has suggested, though. PoE standards are designed with Cat5/5e/6 cabling in mind and should include some over-current and over-voltage protection to prevent overloading the wires in the cable, which are meant only for low voltage and current. If you were to accidentally short something or have an electrical fault with a homebrew system, you'd run the risk of starting a fire, and given that a homebrew setup that was properly done wouldn't end up being all that much less expensive (after buying adapters and plugs and power adapters and such), it's better to go with a professionally made solution. It's unlikely that you'd have an issue, but better to play it safe than sorry. Besides, the purpose-built equipment is likely to give you fewer headaches over time.

No, you don't need a separate CPU cooler, the included stock cooler will work fine. However, it will provide a very tangible boost in CPU performance and longevity. I highly recommend it if you have the money to spare, and it's absolutely necessary if you want to overclock.

With that in mind, I don't think you should buy one for this build. It's probably worth it to spend more money on your GPU instead. Here's what I recommend:

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

Type|Item|Price

----|:----|:----
Motherboard | Gigabyte GA-990FXA-UD3 ATX AM3+ Motherboard | $109.99 @ NCIX US
Memory | Crucial Ballistix Sport 8GB (1 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 Memory | $77.98 @ OutletPC
Storage | PNY XLR8 240GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | $109.99 @ Amazon
Video Card | XFX Radeon R9 280X 3GB Double Dissipation Video Card | $259.99 @ Newegg
Case | BitFenix Comrade ATX Mid Tower Case | $34.99 @ NCIX US
Power Supply | Corsair CX 430W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply | $44.99 @ Newegg
| | Total
| Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available | $637.93
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2014-08-25 13:24 EDT-0400 |

+ this wifi adapter: http://amzn.com/B0088TKTY2

For a total of $653.93!

Breakdown:

The 990FX chipset provides great USB3 speeds, and will allow you to overclock if you get an aftermarket cooler later.

I prefer a single-channel 8GB stick to two dual-channel 4GB's, because, even though it's marginally slower, it depreciates MUCH more slowly, and allows for more future upgradibility.

The XLR8 is slightly cheaper than the 840 EVO you suggested, and about the same speed.

The 280X is a beast GPU. It should definitely be able to run CS:GO at 144fps.

The case is not the best, but it still looks great (IMO). Shouldn't give you any problems.

This PSU doesn't leave you much room to upgrade in the future. However, it is dirt cheap and semi-modular. Yay!

Let me know if you have any questions!

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

Type|Item|Price

----|:----|:----
CPU | AMD - Ryzen 5 2600 3.4GHz 6-Core Processor | $165.99 @ Amazon
CPU Cooler | Noctua - NH-D9L 46.4 CFM CPU Cooler | $51.89 @ Newegg
Motherboard | MSI - B450 TOMAHAWK ATX AM4 Motherboard | $99.99 @ Amazon
Memory | G.Skill - Aegis 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory | $135.98 @ Newegg
Memory | G.Skill - Aegis 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory | $135.98 @ Newegg
Storage | Crucial - MX500 500GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | $98.89 @ OutletPC
Storage | Western Digital - Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $43.90 @ OutletPC
Video Card | Gigabyte - Radeon RX 580 8GB AORUS 8G Video Card | $229.99 @ Amazon
Case | Fractal Design - Focus G (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case | $62.98 @ Newegg
Power Supply | EVGA - SuperNOVA G3 550W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply | $69.88 @ OutletPC
Optical Drive | Asus - DRW-24B1ST/BLK/B/AS DVD/CD Writer | $18.39 @ OutletPC
Wireless Network Adapter | TP-Link - TL-WN881ND PCI-Express x1 802.11b/g/n Wi-Fi Adapter | $17.99 @ Newegg Business
Monitor | LG - 29WK600-W 29.0" 2560x1080 60Hz Monitor | $243.90 @ Amazon
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total (before mail-in rebates) | $1395.75
| Mail-in rebates | -$20.00
| Total | $1375.75
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2018-09-05 22:45 EDT-0400 |

Webcam: https://www.amazon.com/Microsoft-LifeCam-HD-3000-for-Business/dp/B005BZNEKM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1536201556&sr=8-1&keywords=lifecam+hd-3000&dpID=31S7L1sv1cL&preST=_SX300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

Bluetooth: https://www.amazon.com/Bluetooth-Receiver-Transfer-Wireless-Keyboard/dp/B0775YF36R/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1536201601&sr=1-3&keywords=bluetooth+adapter&dpID=41gXomRdk7L&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

A case with more than 3 USB ports will cost more than 100$ extra, so if it's not a necessity, I would just deal with the 2. The LG UltraWide is one of the best color reproducing monitor at a resonable price, and not curved. A RX580 is plenty for the games you listed and frees up budget for 32GB RAM, so you can have those 90 chrome tabs open. I would recommend buying Win10 and MS Office from eBay, just make sure the seller is reputable.

>Will each line on the network require PoE or just the ones feeding the Aps?

Just the ones feeding the APs. The APs use PoE exclusively.

PoE stands for "Power over Ethernet", which is just like it sounds. Devices need to support PoE for the switch to send power over the Ethernet connection.

You can connect a non-PoE device to a PoE port and that would work fine, no worry you'll "fry" anything by doing that. But PoE devices need PoE ports, unless you want to use the provided injector (more below).

>
>Along those lines, a few of my LAN runs have small switches I used to feed other hard points. Rather than one powered switch for the network can i use individual/ PoEs for each AP?

You can indeed use what's called a "PoE Injector" to power each AP individually .

The ceiling APs (the ones that look like flying saucers - The nanoHD, Pro, and Lite models) come with this Injector free!

However, the In-Walls do not come with a PoE Injector. You'd have to buy one for each separately. The In- Walls use a PoE standard known as "802.3af", and you want to make sure the Injector you buy also supports gigabit speeds (some are only 10/100, make sure you dont buy these).

Here is one that would work:

https://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-PoE150S-Injector-Adapter-Compliant/dp/B001PS9E5I/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=poe+injector+af&qid=1574915029&sr=8-3


If you go with all Injectors, you don't need to buy the PoE switch at all

>I'm guessing you need the extra power to amplify the wifi signal. Does it work that way?

No, it's not "extra power to amplifi", it really is just simply powering the APs for regular use. There is no other way to power them; they do not have a "power plug".

Be sure to watch a few YouTube videos on how to set up the Ubiquiti gear you choose before you buy. Make sure you are comfortable with the technical skill you need to administer them. It's a step up from your basic home router setup.

Yes, but I think we need to get on the same page here. Your TV has a Toslink digital output - you're wanting to convert that digital to analog with a DAC. That analog signal needs to go somewhere, like powered speakers or a receiver.

In that case TV Digital Out -> DAC -> Stereo or Active Speakers

You also want a USB input for your phone. Is that for charging your phone? Most phones don't integrate via USB, they do wirelessly via Bluetooth or Airplay. If your stereo doesn't support either, you'll need a device that you can connect to via bluetooth, and send that signal to your stereo or active speakers.

In that case Phone's Bluetooth -> Bluetooth Receiver -> Stereo or Active Speakers

I've used this set before at a customers house for streaming Appletv and it worked great. I wouldn't get the cheaper one.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00Y3QPG1A/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1468775515&sr=8-2&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=ethernet+over+power&dpPl=1&dpID=41lTgRCVtIL&ref=plSrch

Just make sure you don't use an extension cord on it and make sure both outlets are on the same circuit breaker (which unless you have a huge house they should be). Was easy to setup.... Plug and play.

In my experience yes. I had a TP Link wifi adapter plug (basically sends Ethernet through outlets... Don't ask me how I don't know) connect one of those to the router and another one to the computer and you can get Ethernet. Well this worked for a while but eventually the internet just crashed. Replaced the TP Link with a router and the Ethernet works just fine again.

Note the TP Link was a few years old at this point so it is also a viable option. A lot better than rewiring your house anyways.

Edit: TP-Link AV1200 Powerline Adapter, Gigabit w/Power Outlet Pass-through, Powerline speeds Up to 1200Mbps (TL-PA8010P KIT) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00Y3QPG1A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_UAk8Ab7RV8MVD

Similar to the ones I had just newer. Would still research for best product though.

this seems like the kind of goodwill find that allows you to pass the love of vintage on to someone who will fall in love with it and continue the hobby. Buy it, do some cleaning, gift it. Get them some similar grade speakers and one of those bluetooth receivers from Amazon, and you will have done some good in the world.

What if I want my Bluetooth headphones to be amplified?

Pretty ignorant and still trying to figure all of this out and there doesn't seem to be a clear cut answer online.

How might I go about utilizing a headphone amp while still being wirelessly attached to my desktop? Apt-X LL is a requirement.

I'm listening through a pair of Beoplay H9s and I currently have one of these and one of these. Is it as easy as hooking up the former downstream from a headphone amp?

Would love some advice and/or product recs. Thanks!

This.

TP-Link Powerline Adapter AV2000 Mbps - Gigabit Port, Ethernet Over Power, Plug&Play, Power Saving, MU-MIMO, Noise Filtering(TL-PA9020P KIT) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01H74VKZU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_v30vDb5QPB7MQ

Best and easiest way to jump from one side of the house to the other. Was easy to set up and works awesome. Wired speedtest from the modem is almost exactly the same DL speeds as the TP-link. About 120 feet from the modem to the room it is used in.

Bit of a strange one. A cursory web search shows that it should work, but Broadcom cards can be finicky. So, if you're struggling, give this a go in the first instance:

Open up terminal and type:
>sudo apt install bcmwl-kernel-source

Hit Enter, type in your password, then hit Enter again. After that, restart your computer.

NOTE

If it is already installed (the output will tell you something along the lines of "package already installed") then do the following:

>sudo apt purge bcmwl-kernel-source

Restart computer, open terminal and do it again:

>sudo apt install bcmwl-kernel-source

/NOTE

If that doesn't work, you may find some help here, where someone has had a similar problem to you. In there, you may be able to find the correct package (driver) by following the links in that guide, or having a bit of an Internet search for them.

That being said, it seems to be a major problem with BT dongles across the board. Therefore, it might be ideal to get a dongle that is out of the box compatible. I have used TP-Link TL-WN823N in the past on Linux and it works flawlessly (it has also been supported in the kernel since October 2010). For the grand total of £6.99, it is a no brainer.

Best of luck!

I use the Wii U Pro Controller with the cheapest generic Bluetooth dongle I could find on Amazon. If your PC has built-in Bluetooth, you can use that instead. Regardless of what adapter you use, all you have to do is install the TOSHIBA Bluetooth Stack and WiinUPro.

Having been a Gamecube controller fanatic since 2003, I think the Pro Controller is the first controller I've used that is actually superior for general-purpose gaming (on Wii U or PC). The main advantage that I've noticed is the placement of the D-pad, which actually makes it feel just as important and easy-to-use as the analog stick; the Gamecube's D-pad was shoved out of the way and required the player to contort their hands if they wanted to use it (which very few Gamecube games did).

I'm surprised that Nintendo doesn't include a Pro Controller in any of its main Wii U bundles; having bought my Wii U about two months ago, the Pro Controller has been one of the highlights of the experience. If I were forced to use the Gamepad for all of the games, I doubt I'd play as often (Splatoon being the prime example of a good game that requires Gamepad use and thus sees little play from me).

tl;dr Get the Pro Controller! It's awesome!

I think you only really have two options if running cable is out of the question.

Wireless Network Extender

https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-Wi-Fi-Range-Extender-EX3700/dp/B00R92CL5E/ref=sr_1_3?crid=1V6VFPS74O1AY&keywords=netgear+wifi+extender&qid=1564151119&s=gateway&sprefix=netgear%2Caps%2C149&sr=8-3

This is what is called a wireless range extender, this on has a outgoing ethernet port on the bottom. Basically, what it will do, is connect to your wireless network, and send out the signal as a secondary wireless signal and/or a wired signal. I use these at my house, and they work great for my needs.

One con is that the connection speed will be slower than a direct connection, or somebody connecting to the originating access point.

Powerline Ethernet

Another thing you can try is powerline Ethernet, I have not used it myself, and do not understand the requirements as well as I would like to yet. I have heard good things about them, however. Basically what it does is use the existing power wires in the building to carry a ethernet signal.

https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-PowerLINE-1000-Mbps-Gigabit/dp/B01929ESG6/ref=sr_1_6?keywords=netgear+wireless+to+wired&qid=1564151336&s=gateway&sr=8-6

CPU fan: pick one of the 220W compatible models from the TDP page like NH-D14/15. When installing the cpu cooler, don't add the fans (0dB!). The heatsink is enough to cool a 95W+ cpu and you can even overclock a little. ALT. solution (if your mobo allows it): place 1 fan and configure it to turn itself off when it's under a certain temperature, like 60ºC.

GTX970: the ASUS STRIX has a 0dB mode when idle. The fans only start when the card needs to be cooled. The Gigabyte Windforce is the quietest under load. It also has a "0db mode" but it's not covered by the warranty.

Silent Base 800: remove the case fan in the middle front, leave the one in the bottom front. If you want to replace the 2 remaining case fans (bottom front and upper rear), buy two Noctua NF-S12B redux 700(6.8 dbA) or NF-S12A ULN(6.7 - 8.6 dbA). Don't buy the be-quiet pure wings. Don't buy more case fans. If the case contains more fans I didn't see, remove them.

Power supply: you could either buy a fanless Seasonic 520W 80+ Platinum or a model with a zero rpm fan mode like the Corsair RM650 or RM750.

If the computer case doesn't already have it, electronic components emit a high pitch noise than can be reduced by adding accoustic foam.
There are also antivibration screws for the case fans, but I think those are included with the Noctua fans, mine were.


Wireless card: Gigabyte GC-WB867D-I 802.11a/b/g/n/ac. Not about silence, just a better card. Consider powerline networking if possible.

If at one point you need much more storage space but SSDs are not affordable, noise can be a problem with HDDs. For this, place each HDD inside a HDD silencer. There are cheaper models, but you get what you pay for. Also, I'm assuming, you'll place a 2TB or 4TB HDD inside it. HDD price + silencer is still much cheaper than 2TB or 4TB of SSD storage.
Another problem with HDDs is interference. If you hear it, using a dedicated sound card may suppress it.

I do have devices that support 4x MiMo yes. Two computers in particular.

As to beamforming, I'm not an expert on radio signals and engineering, however enabling it client-side has shown a dramatic increase with the speeds I get on a computer located furthest away from the AP. Perhaps this is just a client-side benefit?
This is what that client machine is using to connect: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01H9QMOMY/

Speed tests showed a jump of 100% toggling it on/off.

The problem I have with the multiple APs is to be effective and IMO worth much more than say a tri-band router they would have to be placed in different parts of the house which would require running some wiring, drilling holes, etc and at that point I might as well just run wiring to every room. To be clear I agree multiple APs would work better, but it isn't something I can reasonably do. I have looked into wireless bridging but from what I can tell outside of external antennas and purpose-built enterprise equipment it works like crap.

Thanks for the info on the Ubiquiti APs.

I would really enjoy this seeing as I have slow internet and I absolutely adore gaming with my boyfriend (: Also. Elephant Barber :P Something about me. I'm working towards getting my GED so I can head into college. I wanna be a forensic specialist (:

Oh man, that's definitely not the best way to go but I do know how to do it. In fact, I can't even guarantee it will because I've technically never tried it this way (although once I did something similar to make Chromecast work in a hotel.) First, you have to realize that just plugging into that adapter isn't going to work because it's configured to be looking for an IP address instead of assigning one. So, the first thing you need to go is Google "Internet connection sharing for Windows 10." Look at the instructions for turning your computer into a hotspot because that's what you're doing. The computer is essentially turning itself into a router. Wifi adapter gets an IP address and acts as a gateway. It's really not that complicated but you do have to configure it properly. You could also take an old router and flash it with DD-WRT and turn it into a wireless bridge. Otherwise, the computer has to be on 24/7 with a connection. I'll be around if you have questions.

*if you aren't networking savvy, you could save a lot of time buying a cheap wireless network bridge instead of making one. It looks like they range for 20 to 100 bucks on Amazon. The bridge connects to Wifi and "bridges" that connection to an Ethernet port. Here's an example -https://www.amazon.com/Edimax-Smart-Dual-Band-Extender-EW-7438AC/dp/B015AMYCMO/ref=sr_1_17?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1494275684&sr=1-17&keywords=Wireless+bridge

Or one of these - https://www.amazon.com/IOGEAR-Universal-Ethernet-Adapter-GWU627/dp/B004UAKCS6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1494277810&sr=8-1&keywords=ethernet+to+wifi+adapter

You can using either the official Raspberry Pi PoE hat or an adapter like this one: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MDLUSE7/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_-VWFDbQP627W6

My home network is also all Unifi and about every Raspi I have on it is running off of PoE. It's a little more challenging making it look pretty with cable management but I'm always happy to save a power outlet where I can.

Ah I see. The ONT is the box that they installed in my home, right? That's in my basement (I think), so does that mean I would need to hook up an ethernet cable from that to my router? There's an ethernet port on the same coax outlet where the coaxial cable that connects to my current rented verizon cable is. Could that possibly also be connected to the ONT too? I guess only way to find out is to try it right? xD

Also, if you don't mind me asking (sorry for all the questions), assuming I have that the ONT stuff all set, I currently have this TP-LINK router that I was recommended by a friend. Would it be better to get this adpater or would this cheaper one work just as fine?

You shouldn't need anything else. For me I just got a powerline adapter for the xbox one the tv, don't ask I got a deal on it ($80) COMPLETE overkill but the wifi functionality is also very handy for where it is, internet used to be unusable there. http://www.bestbuy.com/site/netgear-powerline-wi-fi-1000-access-point-and-adapter-white/4760605.p?skuId=4760605&ref=212&loc=1&ksid=bac6a3e4-eb83-48c2-a7ec-46bf847acf9c&ksprof_id=401&ksaffcode=pg112537&ksdevice=m&lsft=ref:212,loc:2

Didn't even have a pair button, works like magic. Id get a gigabit one for sure but you can pay less than $100 for it... Highly recommend this option.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01929ESG6/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1484502846&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=powerline+adapter&dpPl=1&dpID=41vAVpQaRtL&ref=plSrch

This is probably better for you.

Im taking a look at your list.

Just confirmed the OTG cable/flash drive combo works with my wife's Moto G5 but not my Dell Ethernet adapter.

I tried another brand of type c to micro adapters but still nothing on my Z.

I found this adapter which specifically mentions Android support and the product page has a customer submitted compatibility table where someone used it with a Z Force -- https://plugable.com/products/usb2-otge100/

Amazon link -- https://www.amazon.com/Plugable-Micro-B-Ethernet-Adapter-Raspberry/dp/B00RM3KXAU

Good luck

> How reliable are the controllers compared to the Vive?

Fine, I've had no issues. Been playing Skyrim with my Odyssey+. Comfort wise about the same.

> Do you have a source for a cheap replacement controller?

Unfortunately the controllers aren't sold separately. Only option is new headset or eBay. YOu may be able to use standard WMR controllers, but same problem.

> Could you show me what extension cable I'll need to purchase?

You shouldn't need one, that said I've used these with my WMR headsets

> How about rechargeable batteries? Do you have a suggestion for a good set of rechargeable batteries and charger to use with the controllers?

Any AA batteries should do. I have no recommendations myself.

> Do you have a link for a reliable USB Bluetooth 4.0 that I should pickup?

Odyssey+ comes with built in BT. OG (Original Odyssey) does not, it will work with any dongle you have. Though its best to have it be line of side (and not under a desk or something. I used this dongle for my demo machines.

> I was told the Odyssey may require some kind of light blanket or cover??? What's the deal with this?

If its what I think you mean, there's a small gap on the side by your eyes for the O+. Which can let some light in. It's generally more noticable on the O+, the OG doesn't really have the gap. VR Cover makes face padding you can buy.

> Is there anything else I should know about this system prior to getting it?

In order to play SteamVR games you need the Windows Mixed Reality for SteamVR pluggin. Make sure that where ever your play area is has some things for the tracking cameras to see, along with adequate lighting and nothing to reflective. (Don't try and play in an empty room with nothing but beige carpet and walls and no light).

For me I solved that issue by getting this Avantree Leaf USB Transmitter Adapter for Switch & PS4 for $30 (though it was $29 when I got it)

I mostly play 99.9% of the time in docked mode after work or on my days off. So getting something like a Genki, Gulikit, or Homespot which is at least $10-$11 more expensive (and is more geared towards using it in portable mode) made little sense when those only worked for the Switch. I needed something that worked with the Switch & PS4 ideally so this was perfect for my needs.

But if you only want an adapter for the Switch then one of those 3 works just fine, & some of them come with USB adapters so you can use them in docked mode.

Does it kind of suck you need to buy an accessory to fix the lack of bluetooth support for wireless headphones? Sure, but thankfully 3rd party companies are making products that solve this issue at a mostly reasonable cost depending which one you get.

This is a great review site for networking stuff.

http://www.smallnetbuilder.com/

Best reviewed AC1200 router $90
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JZFG6QS?ie=UTF8&tag=small0c-20&linkCode=as2&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=B00JZFG6QS

Best reviewed AC1750 router $130
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00N2ROH0C?ie=UTF8&tag=small0c-20&linkCode=as2&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=B00N2ROH0C

If you go with a good higher AC router, you start pushing even closer to $200.

But check out that website, see some reviews. A 3rd ranked in any given AC category router will be solid, but who knows, might be a good bit cheaper.

considering this is for a beginner, this is a pretty 'advanced' build.

IMO they shouldn't be striving for overclocking their CPU, chances are neither of them fully understand it. They could save some money, skip the cpu cooler and thermal compound, and maybe get that 1440p monitor.

here is a tplink wifi adapter for $12 instead of the $30 one you linked. I mean we should verify with OP but I'd be surprised if they needed over 100mb/s...let alone 800+ that the gigabyte adapter you linked supports.

Could also just get the i5-6500 and save some more money there.

That's like $60 in savings that could go towards a bigger SSD than 60gb (which I think is necessary for a beginner who probably isn't too accustomed to changing file paths for literally everything)

If you can plug in using a wire, I recommend doing so, as it is faster and more stable. You can pick your color/length for solid price here.

If you're in a situation where you can't plug into your router/modem, then wifi is your next choice. Something like this will work just fine, but if you're comfortable attaching a card to your motherboard, this will provide a stronger and more reliable experience.

https://www.amazon.com/Actiontec-Bonded-Ethernet-Adapter-ECB6200K02/dp/B013J7OBUU

Moca 2 adapters that will do 1gb/s are fairly expensive, you need 2 of them so a total of $140 per link. However, this approach plus a cheap access point will give you better coverage than having a single more expensive access point.

https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Unifi-Ap-AC-Lite-UAPACLITEUS/dp/B015PR20GY

Measure the strength of your wifi and your neighbors at various points around your house. You want to set your access points to channels with the least amount of interference, for the best performance.

If you have an android phone I recommend this app:

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer

I’m all for neat DIY projects, but you really just need a new 5.1 channel receiver. If the budget is a concern, you can find a cheap receiver from a pawn shop, yard sale, Craigslist, etc. and then dedicate one of the inputs to a bluetooth adapter:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B016NUTG5K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_08ftDbCAB9VET

Alternatively, nearly all new home theater receivers come with Bluetooth and potentially Wi-Fi streaming capabilities, along with neat HDMI passthrough stuff your old home-theater-in-a-box likely lacked. More expensive, but worth looking into if you still want to keep those particular speakers.

And if you were looking for more of a distributed, whole-home audio set up, all you need is the aforementioned receiver and more speaker wire — cleverly hiding that can be quite the DIY project in itself. (That would likely require a dedicated streaming device or AirPlay-esque WiFi streaming to avoid Bluetooth range issues though.)

You can use a micro USB adapter like [this one] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00RM3KXAU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_73XKAb1Z0AJZE)

Although to be honest, part of the beauty of the Chromecast is how unobtrusive it is. If you really want the functionality of the device without adding more wires, I'd consider getting a gen 2 and seeing if that works better.

Thanks again for all the help. Would any gigabit router work, like these:

https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-AC1200-Wireless-Gigabit-Router/dp/B00JZFG6QS

Or

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B002YLAUU8/ref=mp_s_a_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1484172720&sr=8-7&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=gigabit+router&dpPl=1&dpID=41CDHg%2BLqdL&ref=plSrch

Would I need to get the AC router in order to maximize performance or would the N router work just as well, as long as they're both gigabit?

Also, would wireless speeds go up at all with a gigabit router? Can wifi speeds get close to max (like 100-120) with a better router?

Sorry for the late reply, but I thought it might still be helpful.

Something like these for instance.

Basically, it's a wallwart that plugs in, an ethernet port and (optionally) has a passthrough AC output. On the wall/house wiring side it accepts AC but also spits out an RF signal carrying the ethernet data, where another unit of the same model can decode it again, so you can send ethernet data over your existing wiring.

As the signal is going over wiring, it's less susceptible to radio noise and way more reliable than things like wifi.

Looks like one of the smsl models or something similar. There’s several micro stereo amplifiers out there these days that get pretty solid reviews!

I bought this for my dad to power some small Boston acoustics satellite speakers he found at a goodwill. Added a subwoofer and a Bluetooth receiver and he’s a happy camper.

SMSL A2 40Wx2 Audio Stereo... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07D2X3HFT?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Bluetooth Audio Adapter for Music Streaming Sound System, esinkin W29-us Wireless Audio Adapter Works with Smart Phones and Tablets, Wireless Adapter for Speakers https://www.amazon.com/dp/B016NUTG5K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_CLGyDbZRQTRYT

you really think BT sounds like garbage without AptX or AAC? i can't tell the difference in quality using this cheap BT adapter i got from Amazon vs. Chromecast vs. Aux connected laptop/phone.

https://www.amazon.com/Bluetooth-Adapter-Streaming-Wireless-Speakers/dp/B016NUTG5K/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1521756012&sr=8-4&keywords=bluetooth+receiver

as for an amp with BT with AptX/AAC, i don't know any. either way, someone is going to get a pretty neat gift!

Buy a new wireless card. Here is a cheap one:
https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Wireless-PCI-Express-Adapter-TL-WN781ND/dp/B0036AFAEW/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_147_lp_tr_t_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=ZG31YN21PDS12QZSKX6M
Here is a nicer one (may be unnecessary):
https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Wireless-Express-Adapter-TL-WDN4800/dp/B007GMPZ0A/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1498623987&sr=8-2&keywords=pcie+wireless


New GPU will be the biggest improvement. 1050 Ti is a quick and easy upgrade generally ($150).

SSD for OS wouldn't hurt.

Up to 16G ram if you are feeling like a boss.

I use tp-link power line adapters and they work really well for me but Im not sure how they would work in an apartment building. All you have to do is plug one into an outlet and your router then the other one plugs into the wall and wires to your xbox. They send the signal over the powerlines but the 2 outlets and power lines all have to be on the same circuit for it to connect. In an apartment your outlets may not all be on the same circuit like they would a house. You could definitely get some from walmart or amazon and return them if they dont work. They run about $50 for cheaper ones and 80-90 for better ones

Heres what I have
https://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-Powerline-Pass-Through-TL-PA9020P-KIT/dp/B01H74VKZU/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?keywords=powerline+adapter&qid=1568409038&sprefix=powerline&sr=8-5

I bought [this one] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01H9QMOMY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) . it is a bit expensive but to be honest I am enjoying it because there are no compromises . its very comparable to being hardwired. I went from hardwired to this for different reasons but I haven enjoyed this immensely for the past 5mo.

Great idea! These ones look pretty awesome.

The equalization and level on the phono inputs won't give desirable results.

I'd use one of the tape inputs with a Bluetooth adapter like this
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B016NUTG5K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_3RXQDbJKV9ZQ1

If your tape inputs are already in use, add an rca switch like this so you can connect more than one device to the same input.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MRPATRW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_gTXQDb4NKG0QT

There may be better versions of these devices out there. I just linked the first search results on Amazon to help provide clarity.

I found on Amazon a dongle with a BlueSoleil license for 12€ (french, sorry) : https://www.amazon.fr/Avantree-Adaptateur-Bluetooth-utilisant-Branchement/dp/B00VWEK4IG/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8.

I think i will go with this one. Do you think it's a good idea ? Thanks again for your help :)

Three options.

the first/PCIe one is the cleanest as the device will live in the computer and make the desktop act like a laptop in respect to how wireless networks function.

• wireless ac via PCIe
  
• wireless ac via PCIe
  
  The second/USB one is pretty much the same but will have less performance due to antenna diversity and the USB interface.
  
  
• Wireless ac via USB
  
• Wireless ac via USB
  
  
  The third/router is probably the most ideal as it will allow the computer to continue using the onboard ethernet, and give you additional ports to plug other things into. It does have the complexity of having to switch the router into bridge/client mode, but that isn't very hard.
  
  
• Router in bridge mode
  
  As of now the OnHub/GF equipment doesn't interop directly. They are separate business units, and operate independently. It's possible they will integrate in the future but as of now they are on distinct paths from each other.

A good way to gauge compatliablity is looking at Amazon reviews by using their keyword search.

It's has a couple reviews with Ubuntu users. Older reviewers (2013-2014) had problems. More recent reviews (2015-2016) seem to indicate it works fine. I'd imagine it's gotten improved kernel support since its release.

Edit: It's shipped and sold by Amazon. So if you do come across issues they'll refund and pay for return shipping within 30 days of purchase. So it's a good way to test it out without too many worries.

A powerline adapter is a system that allows you to transmit Ethernet through your homes in-wall power lines. For many, like myself, it is a great way to get ethernet from one end of a house to another to create a hardwired connection or add another wireless access point.

The reason it works better for some, is because it is reliant on the quality of your homes powerlines and potential interference in those lines.

Edit: To use, simply plug one receiver into an outlet near your modem, running a patch cable between the two. Plug the other receiver in a location you want ethernet, and run another patch cable from it according to your needs.

an example, and the one i personally use is
https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-PowerLINE-1000-Mbps-Gigabit/dp/B01929ESG6/ref=lp_1194444_1_2?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1494641806&sr=1-2

Yeah. Their racks are pricey for what they are and I dislike their functionality where it looks like the USB and Ethernet ports of the RPi are internal (based on the switch in this diagram) to the chassis.

I agree the PoE hats make it nice and clean in terms of cable management but this type of splitter is a wonderful, cheaper replacement that doesn't block the GPIO pins.

Are you referring to USB adapters? What is your price point?
The Panda PAU06 has good reviews on Amazon and is cheaper than most dual band adapters of comparable quality. I personally own the Linksys WUSB6300 and the TP-Link Archer T4U, both are good and the Archer works really easily with Linux as well, if that's your thing.

Any commidity ~$15-20 USB dual-band wifi dongle would probably do just fine. Depends on how congested your wifi bands are, you may want to take a look using something like Wifi Analyzer (mobile app). One with a proper antenna may do better if your signal isn't as good, but I've used the tiny pinky-sized ones before in more suburban areas without issue. If you're packed in an apartment or dense living with a billion WAPs you may want better equipment on both the router and adapter side.

ex.

https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-TL-WN725N-wireless-network-Adapter/dp/B0088TKTY2

https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Archer-T2UH-Dual-Band-Compatible/dp/B00UZRVY12

The cheaper no-name ones may still be just fine as well.

You can use a wireless bridge, I've used them multiple times with standalone wired only devices to great success.

https://www.amazon.com/IOGEAR-Universal-Ethernet-Adapter-GWU627/dp/B004UAKCS6

Hope this helps!

Ooh, laptop-as-wifi-bridge! I've done that. It works okay, definitely better than nothing.

If you're expecting to make it permanent, you should probably invest in one of these freakishly useful buggers, which is way more compact than your laptop and also not your laptop. Alternatively, you can get a PCIE wifi card for your desktop, though that's a less flexible solution.

I'm shocked! lol That's fantastic.

If there really is no good way to run the wire, you can also try using a powerline adapter instead. A decent 500Mbps adapter set should be pretty decent, especially if the 2 plugs it's connected to are on the same breaker. It will be far superior to the wireless issues you experienced, but may not be able to get you the full 95Mbps. Rent one from a local best buy to see if fixes the issue (30 day no hassle money back guarantee!)

EDIT - Turns out even the gigabit powerline adapters are a decent price now too:
https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-PowerLINE-1000-Mbps-Gigabit/dp/B01929ESG6/ref=sr_1_4?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1483846046&sr=1-4&keywords=powerline+adapter

You can get a Bluetooth reciever for like $20 that can plug into any existing speakers you already have. The Chromecast Audio is also very good as well, though I don't know how well it works with Audible.

This is the model I have and it works great.

As far as internet goes, I ran into a similar problem with my build, and I bought the motherboard that was suggested to you in this thread that has built in Wi-Fi Unfortunately, that device's built in Wi-Fi isn't strong enough to go reach from the basement to the second story of a house. Additionally, I read several Amazon reviews saying that it couldn't get signal even on the same level through several walls.

Can you elaborate on your internet situation? Originally, I bought a wireless USB adapter for my PC, and it was pretty solid, but as far as gaming goes, I kept getting random ping spikes, resulting in characters skipping around. I'd definitely suggest a Powerline Adapter if you're significantly far away from your router. I bought this one, but there are definitely cheaper versions of it out there. I'd highly recommend it. It's as close as you can get to direct wiring to a router that's far away. Gaming has been smooth sailing for me ever since.

I highly suggest this https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-PowerLINE-1000-Mbps-Gigabit/dp/B01929ESG6/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1485755658&sr=1-1&keywords=netgear+powerline its on sale and I am using the similar one but the 1200 and I have two, Been using for 2 years now as I switch from wifi and I'm getting the best ping and speed. Everything was 5x better.

The nice thing about PowerLine is that it either works really well, or it's complete garbage. As long as you don't have the type of AFCI breakers that mess with them, and if your outlets are on the same phase, they then to be rock solid. Buy them from someplace with a good return policy, plug them in, and see if they work in your environment.

I have two sets of these, so two that have built in wifi and two that are just the ethernet.

• Non-wifi 1: Connected to my router on the 1st floor
  
• Non-wifi 2: Cconnected to my wife's computer on the 2nd floor
  
• Wifi 1: In the living room, 2nd floor, ethernet port unused. Roku4 connects to this with wifi.
  
• Wifi 2: In detached garage/workshop, ethernet port unused
  
  The router and both wifi powerline adaptors are set to the same SSID and password, and laptops/phones switch between them as needed.
  
  You could get the pair I linked above, or you could skip the wifi part and just get this pair.
  
  I also had a pair of these that worked just fine. The only reason I replaced them was because I wanted to add the wifi capabilities.
  
  Remember that the default encryption is identical for every device shipped from the factory. That means anybody who owns the same device could access your network by plugging in to an outlet on the outside of your house, or in another apartment in the same building. Leave the encryption alone when you're first setting things up, but make sure that after you've got it all working and you're happy with the performance, you go back and change the encryption so that only your devices will work together.

You should try powerline adapters. You won't get quite the same speed as a hard wired connection, but it is a whole lot better than wireless. I have a few in my house, and they work great!
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00Y3QPG1A/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_DtAuxbZT3CKJ4

Do you already have FiOS service, or are you planning on ordering it?

If the ONT doesn't have an ethernet port then it sounds like it's a pretty old one. If you don't already have FiOS service then there's a good chance they'll upgrade the ONT when you call and order it. If they do that then the new ONT would likely have an ethernet port that they can provision for you.

If you're stuck with that ONT then one solution would be to purchase a MoCA bridge which would provide you with an ethernet port. Then you could use whatever router you want.

I have the HD4.40BT and I enjoy them. they've got some nice bass. you will need to buy a Bluetooth dongle to plug into the PC, unless you have a notebook as most of them come with Wifi/Bt card inside them.

the Bt adapter I use is this one:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00VWEK4IG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

it works wonderfully with Windows 10!

FWIW, I tried a bit to get my PS4 controller to work properly in a bunch of different games. I could get it to work after some messing around, but...

Once I broke down and picked up an XBox controller, I didn't have to mess with virtually anything. It just works.

WAY worth it, IMO (having gone through it). I've never owned an XBox, but for PC gaming with a controller, I would suggest saving up and getting a "Microsoft" game controller... So much easier.

I picked up a $13 bluetooth adapter for my PC to use it. Works great.

Definitely a solution. Use one of these. Basically it uses your power lines to send an Ethernet signal across your home. One module is plugged into the room with modem. The other module in your room. Then you sync and connect by ethernet for maximum throughput! Good luck!

Here is a post I found about what you're trying to do. Apparently it shouldn't ruin anything, but it may or may not work.

I'd say your best option would be to pick up something like this. As long as it's 802.3af or 802.3at compliant it will work with the AP.

If the patch panel you have says anything about 802.3af/at then it should be able to be used.

I bought this one and it connected like a charm. You can run it with micro USB cable, but to be completely honest, the input lag that everybody claims that bluetooth introduces is humanly non-noticeable. I play Rocket League, Dustforce, Dirt Rally with bluetooth, and it's perfect.

Here is a Netgear powerline kit that looks good: https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-Powerline-1000-Essentials-PL1010-100PAS/dp/B01929ESG6/ref=sr_1_10?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1480819075&sr=1-10&keywords=powerline+adapter

I have a friend who bought this and it works great for him. Let me know if you have questions OP

Yes, they have devices specifically for this. Here's one from amazon: https://www.amazon.com/IOGEAR-Universal-Ethernet-Adapter-GWU627/dp/B004UAKCS6

If your device has a USB port though, it might be easier to use a usb wifi adapter like another comment said. Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DKDAUAS

Cat5e should be plenty fast for home use.

Like the other guy said, you really need to get power here and a switch. If you want to do it right, you could terminate all the wiring into a patch panel, then attach those ports to your switch. That gives you a nice setup to centralize network equipment.

Examples:
Patch: https://www.amazon.com/Dshot12-Cat5e-network-Mount-Surface/dp/B00NTWK8VW/ref=mp_s_a_1_8?keywords=patch+panel&qid=1572791966&sprefix=Patch+&sr=8-8

Switch:
https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-TL-SG1008D-Unmanaged-Gigabit-Network/dp/B001EVGIYG/ref=mp_s_a_1_6?keywords=8+port+gigabit+switch&qid=1572792046&sprefix=8+po&sr=8-6



Edit:

Thinking more, if you absolutely can't get power in there you could probably do a PoE (power over ethernet) powered switch here, with a PoE power injector on another line.

Something like this in the closet: https://www.newegg.com/p/N82E16833122614

Then the port on there for power would need to lead to something like this in another room: https://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-PoE150S-Injector-Adapter-Compliant/dp/B001PS9E5I/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=poe+injector&qid=1572793212&sprefix=poe+i&sr=8-3

These are pretty crazy. Assuming that the wifi is sent by a decently powerful access point, and there is a pretty clear line of sight you can hit wifi at some crazy ranges. Now, the connection is going to be spotty and the the speed will be abysmal. Leeching wifi at 2km with a giant yagi would be a pretty sad life. I never said that it was a good idea, just that it can be done. Oh I forgot to mention, unless you have a license, it would be very illegal to use a yagi on a 2w transmitter since it would give unholy EIRP.

Think about it, our control systems are 2.4ghz and with directional antennas people can get like 5km. The taranis only has a transmit power of like 100mW which is comparable to many access points. All the things that our fancy dancy RC protocols do, was first implemented in wifi. We are basically flying drones with wifi.

That is a mediocre deal for $550. Building it new would cost $600.

I would ask him to lower the price to $500 at least. You're giving up a lot of quality and all the warranties you would get from a new PC.

PCPartPicker Part List

Type|Item|Price

----|:----|:----
CPU | AMD Ryzen 7 2700 3.2 GHz 8-Core Processor | $186.43 @ OutletPC
Motherboard | ASRock B450M-HDV R4.0 Micro ATX AM4 Motherboard | $64.88 @ OutletPC
Memory | *Crucial 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-2666 Memory | $63.99 @ Adorama
Storage | ADATA SU800 128 GB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive | $22.03 @ Amazon
Storage | *Hitachi Ultrastar 1 TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $33.03 @ Amazon
Video Card | Gigabyte Radeon RX 580 4 GB AORUS 4G Video Card | $169.99 @ Amazon
Case | DIYPC MA01 MicroATX Mini Tower Case | $25.97 @ Newegg
Power Supply | EVGA 400 W ATX Power Supply | $34.99 @ ModMyMods
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total | $601.31
| *Lowest price parts chosen from parametric criteria |
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2019-08-05 14:19 EDT-0400 |

Downsides
Memory is a horribly slow 2666mhz CL19 according to the reviews. This will lower cpu performance by ~15% compared to the 3000mhz CL16 memory we would normally pair with a Ryzen 2000 series cpu.
SSD. Smaller than you want.
PSU: One of the reviews said the PSU is only 400W so you have absolutely no room for future upgrades since this PC is ~351W according to PCPartpicker.
Video Card: The video card is a 4GB version of the RX 580 instead of 8GB. This is somewhat disappointing since we can get 8GB cards for the same price now, but it will only affect some games and the performance difference would only be ~10fps.
No warranty. Buying new would give you warranties on all of the parts.
Note: I didn't include wifi+bluetooth in the comparison build because you probably don't need them. If you do, you can get a wifi adapter for $15 and a bluetooth adapter for $7.

#Superior $600 New PC

Improvements: 500GB SSD, a reliable PSU with a 5 year warranty, better video card, faster RAM (so a faster cpu).
* Downgrades: We lost the 8 core cpu in favor of a 6 core cpu. However this has no impact on gaming, and the 6 core cpu will actually be better for gaming because it is paired with 3000mhz CL 16 RAM.

PCPartPicker Part List

Type|Item|Price

----|:----|:----
CPU | AMD Ryzen 5 2600 3.4 GHz 6-Core Processor | $132.90 @ OutletPC
Motherboard | ASRock B450M PRO4 Micro ATX AM4 Motherboard | $69.99 @ Amazon
Memory | *Team T-FORCE VULCAN Z 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3000 Memory | $59.99 @ Newegg
Storage | Team L5 LITE 3D 480 GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | $52.99 @ Amazon
Storage | Western Digital Caviar Blue 1 TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $42.85 @ OutletPC
Video Card | Sapphire Radeon RX 580 8 GB PULSE Video Card | $169.99 @ Newegg
Case | DIYPC MA01 MicroATX Mini Tower Case | $25.97 @ Newegg
Power Supply | *Corsair CX (2017) 450 W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply | $44.99 @ Newegg
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total | $599.67
| *Lowest price parts chosen from parametric criteria |
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2019-08-05 14:08 EDT-0400 |

I'd try out this powerline kit. It's more reliable than Wifi, and better for gaming (and pretty much better overall)

Get the 3 port one if well, you need 3 ports

In principle, a PCIe WiFi card is your best bet, and if you have the money, I highly recommend that.

In practice, you can use a dongle or an ethernet adapter (these are a lot less common than they used to be, since everything including your socks has a usb port on it these days).

However, like many people here, I'm going to suggest that you stick to cables if at all practical.

I have used "passive PoE splitters" like these along with a buck regulator similar to this to implement my own DIY PoE solution for remotely powering RPIs. This will only work with "Alternative B" PoE (see "Mode B" and/or "Mode A").

Alternatively, you could use something like this which is basically the above solution in a single device (and didn't exist when I built my system).

All the above product links are super cheap-o Chinesium units; you've been warned :-/

A great Wireless-N Wi-fi card is the TP-Link TL-WN881ND for under $20.

If you need bluetooth as well as a basic Wireless-AC (AC1200), then there's an Asus PCE-AC55BT that has you covered.

For higher performing 802.11ac with beamforming, an affordable option is the TP-Link Archer T9E AC1900 card. For top of the line, you should look at the AC3100 capable Asus PCE-AC88 card.

https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Unifi-Security-Gateway-USG/dp/B00LV8YZLK/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1511814229&sr=8-2&keywords=Unifi+Security+Gateway

https://www.amazon.com/Actiontec-Bonded-Ethernet-Adapter-ECB6200S02/dp/B013J7OBUU/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1511814273&sr=1-2&keywords=moca+bridge

https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-UAP-AC-HD-Unifi-Access-Point/dp/B01N15FSAG/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1511814368&sr=1-1&keywords=unifi+ac+hd

I like the sound of the USG one. Is this essentially all I need to get it set up? The MoCA 2.0 Bridge, USG, and the UniFi AC HD. And the software which I'm assuming is a free download. What is a switch and do I need one of those as well? And do the Verizon agents that come and set up everything work with these as well? I would assume not..

I have this one. I didn't do any research or anything, but it said "Amazon's choice" which seemed reassuring. It's worked well for me out of the box, with no configuration or fiddling necessary. There are probably better ones, but it works well enough that I haven't had any reason to comparison shop.

I would recommend the Alfa AWUS036NH. Does b/g/n and does it well. packet injection and all. I'm pretty sure it's industry recommended by now.

I might get that but this router also has got great reviews at half the price seems like a newer model and uses the same ac technology. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JZFG6QS/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_8D3Qub1WZRQ75

I was also looking to use a NUC as a Hackintosh (to replace a Mac Mini). I ended up using an HP 8300 USDT. But I did see that almost all NUCs have Intel Wifi cards that are soldered to the board. I started to use USB wifi for my HP 8300 but then got a $20 refubished AC1200 Wifi Extender (at a MicroCenter store) with an ethernet port and now I use that. The USB wifi did work but it was unstable with sleep/wake. Now my connection is faster and very stable. The USB bluetooth I got was a $7 CSR 4.0 dongle and it's working great - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0775YF36R/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

So - if you're still working on Wifi and Bluetooth for your NUC, I would recommend a wifi extender with ethernet and a cheap CSR 4.0 bluetooth dongle.

You might look into powerline adapters.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00Y3QPG1A/ref=s9_cdeal_hm_awbw_b50jE_i1?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=mobile-hybrid-11&pf_rd_r=5W3F5WDSNYF2R0DYT3X0&pf_rd_t=30901&pf_rd_p=1429b8ba-e75d-571e-9b71-9f4989516af7&pf_rd_i=1194444

I have a pair of something similar at home. Poke around to see what would fit you best, but me and my roommate are both very happy with them.

Its probably the chip set, I bet it is an atheros, those tend to play nice, some do others don't, why? Well you are going to need someone more techy than me to find out. My best guess is from a prior experience when I had to put a card into monitor mode, it didn't happen so I suppose its drivers are crap for linux.

Anyway I would also think its probably better to put a few more dollars in to get the external antenna variant, [here.] (http://www.amazon.com/Panda-300Mbps-Wireless-USB-Adapter/dp/B00JDVRCI0/ref=pd_sim_147_1?ie=UTF8&dpID=41aN7RPsG8L&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=0QPVQV93ZEDN2SRKPXD5)

Something like this might do the trick:

https://www.amazon.com/IOGEAR-Universal-Ethernet-Adapter-GWU627/dp/B004UAKCS6/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1468418411&sr=8-2&keywords=wi-fi+to+ethernet+adapter

It allows you to connect a device that only has an ethernet port to WiFi. Then you can join your Hue bridge to the campus wifi and your other devices on the campus wifi should be able to access it.

Of course, nothing is guaranteed, but Amazon has a fairly generous return policy so you shouldn't be screwed if it doesn't work.

Should be able to get this thing to join your wifi network from the hotspot and hand off a wired interface to the MoCA gear. Is the bluray player wifi only? Seems like ti would be easier to just connect it with a cable to the other end of the MoCA setup.

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B004UAKCS6

Did you buy him the card already? The RX 470 and RX480 are coming at the end of the month and will both feature better performance in battlefield and GTA and both are cheaper than that $250 380 you have in the cart.

But to answer your questions. No the 860k won't be much of a bottleneck in those games. Especially if you overclock it a bit with a good cooler. That cooler in your list only does a light overclock.

Can I also make a few suggestions?
You're building budget but went with a $200 monitor? Might as well spring for freesync and 1ms response time while you're at it.

Better Cooler - trust me it's worth it

2 Sticks of 4GB Instead for Dual Channel

Wifi Pci card over usb wifi

Why not a nice Micro Atx case to match the motherboard

Do you think antennas like this will work? (My area has trees, and where go does have walls, like I mentioned before) Should be able to work with a RPI if I can get an adapter

https://www.amazon.com/Aigital-Amplifier-Wireless-Reception-Omni-Direction/dp/B075JBG2R7/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=10dbi+wifi+antenna&qid=1569791802&s=electronics&sr=1-4

Could get something like this, and take the antenna off it and use the usb attachment

https://www.amazon.com/Panda-Wireless-PAU06-300Mbps-Adapter/dp/B00JDVRCI0/ref=pd_bxgy_147_img_2/136-3974745-3511228?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00JDVRCI0&pd_rd_r=32c59f8d-5c97-11e9-a2d5-e3eae196d506&pd_rd_w=BNLGa&pd_rd_wg=oUlAT&pf_rd_p=a2006322-0bc0-4db9-a08e-d168c18ce6f0&pf_rd_r=SKAY7NF7QVF07CJ8SX0Q&psc=1&refRID=SKAY7NF7QVF07CJ8SX0Q