(Part 2) Reddit mentions: The best passive components

This is still a work in progress

Details:

Essential shoping list (to me)

-[6" fan and carbon filter]
(https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008NYF8S4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1) works great, no smell, plenty of airflow, relatively loud at 100%, virtually silent when turned down to below 30% with some sound absorbing foam around the intake and fan. 4" would have worked for my small setup. I'm pushing through the filter which is outside my grow area with no problems. Don't forget some ducting and real duct tape. Clamps aren't really needed at these speeds and pressures if you have good tape, but they won't hurt.

-[Speed controller for fan.] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006NGI2RS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) This was definitely overkill, I just didn't trust cheaper voltage regulators, plus I can and have used it for other things. Pretty well made, works great.

-[pH meter.] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CMFVXMA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) I didn't want to cheap out on this since pH is so important. Meter works great. Only note is you probably want to get some extra storage solution, it only comes with a little, and after a few months you'll run out.

-Light was a Viparspectra 300 (130 actual watts). Worked well, had good growth. I added more light later but for my small space that would have probably given me decent yields.

-[This timer for lights] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MYOD58S/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) was super easy to program and hasn't failed. It has a bright blue LED indicating if the timer is sending power to the lights which is nice, but I had to tape over it because it was so bright. Also, the timer gets a little warm which makes me a little uneasy since I only have ~250 watts going through it.

-General Hydroponics FloraGrow, FloraMicro, FloraBloom, CaliMagic. I also got Fox Farms Big Bloom part way through flower but don't have any way to know its actual benefits so it's not an essential.

-Coco for growing medium. Most people add perlite, I didn't.

-7 gal smart pot

-Plastic storage container with a kitchen cooling rack to sit the pot into and onto and allow drainage without making a mess. Cooling rack allows for 1/2" of water to accumulate before the pot is sitting in it.

-[adjustable hangers for lights.] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0098R0600/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) Work great, easy to use



Set up and process

• In a closet that's 1.8' x 1.8' x 6'
  
  
• Temperatures between 72 F and 80 F. When I measure temp at the bottom of my canopy it's consistently about 5 degrees F below the temp at the top near my fan outlet. I have to use A/C in the room to keep it from moving up to 80 or a bit higher.
  
  
• Humidity between 40% and 60%
  
  
• Coco with about 30% peat moss which included time release nutrients. I didn't want the added nutes and tried running water through it for a few hours to clear it out, but I highly doubt that did anything. I wish I had waited a few days to ship pure peat moss so I could know exactly what nutrients were going into the plant. I picked peat moss because I wanted my pot to hold more water. I'm not sure if this was a good thing or not.
  
  
• 7 gallon smart pot, only ~5.5 gal full though. I'm glad I went with the bigger pot since my plant is so tall and top heavy now. I have read that if you want to go bigger for the pot it's better to go deeper than wider because of the root structure, but I don't know.
  
  
• I sprouted the seed using the paper towel method. Took a few days. Next time I'll probably use the water in a shot glass method.
  
  
• I put the sprouted seed right into the 7 gal smart pot which probably wasn't a great idea. I also watered the entire pot for the first couple weeks which probably was bad. I should have started in a small container and transplant, or at least only water a small area around the seedling at first.
  
  
• I put a bag seed in the same pot and sprouted it because I was dumb and bored. It sprouted and actually got to about 2.5 weeks old before I pulled the trigger and dug it up and transplanted it into it's own 5 gal smart pot. It wasn't happy for a few days because I know I damaged the roots in order to try to avoid the roots of the main plant. I let it grow in the new pot until about 4 weeks then I ran out of room in my closet and trashed the entire plant. Terrible idea all around.
  
  
• Viparspectra 300 initially, then around day 50 of veg I added ~100 watts of CFL. At 40 days after the 12/12 flip I added a galaxy hydro 300 and took out the CFLs (we'll see if that was a good idea...)
  
  
• Veg for 60 days after sprouting. Good idea if you have the vertical space and time. Veg took a long time because I waited too long and the first time I topped I took off like 3 or 4 sets of growth tips, it was like a whole mini plant. I don't know if waiting so long helped the plant develop more roots and a bigger stem which facilitated faster growing or if it was just wasted time. I'm going top it earlier next time though.
  
  
• I topped it twice to get kind of a manifold. The height and size of the colas were not dependent on where it's branch started which makes me doubt the need of a symmetrical manifold, which this was not.
  
  
• Defoliated a little around the 12/12 flip, a lot during about 20-30 days after flipping which left the plant with virtually no fan leaves with stems longer than 1". This was all great, next time I'll probably defoliate earlier.
  
  
• I had to go out of town for 10 days just after the 12/12 flip. I raised up the lights, but not enough and one cola grew into a CFL and killed the top. I cut the top off and now the lower flowers are growing a bit bigger and taller than their partners on other colas, just no top. Also, I only got an automatic watering system set up the night before I left and it didn't water as much as I wanted, plus the pH drifted a lot while I was gone. I started with the pH low to try to mitigate it rising, which I expected. I was expecting the plant to really be struggling, but she looked great actually.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  

Welcome!

Take this with a grain of salt because, I still don't really know what I'm doing (although I'm not sure anyone feels like they ever do); but, here's my experience.

For recommendations - skip to the -------------- Bottom Line ------------------ below

My first project was this little breadboard prototyping pedal box thingy I made out of stuff I bought at RadioShack (before all the stores closed):

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lJ5ws-Y9OPQ

There are much better ways to do this and I regret my potentiometer selections for this box but, I was really green and the Shack didn't have board mounted pots (I don't even think I knew there was such a thing at that point).

But, on that box, I built circuits that I found online and I was instantly hooked.

Fast forward many "wasted" hours and here's where I am:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zGNmA1YM3n8

Hah! - still building distortion boxes :P - well - and this:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iPrLFpkO9no&feature=youtu.be&t=48

----------------------------------------------------- Bottom Line -----------------------------------------------------

After all that here are the things I can suggest you stock up on (and I would bet you can find cheaper versions of any of these - but what's in them is what matters):

For IC's:

http://smallbear-electronics.mybigcommerce.com/op-amp-ic-kit/

For Potentiometers:

https://www.amazon.com/Logarithmic-Linear-Reverse-Potentiometer-Assortment/dp/B07SVMC3VK

Then you'll want a grab bag of diodes and transistors - look at different schematics of fuzz and distortion pedals and get an idea of what they're using - I just bought a bunch at RadioShack and some I got from Mammoth (also now defunct) and Small Bear (still rolling). I have em in a box and I swap em out on the breadboard to see how it changes the sound. That's the best part to me. When I'm on a breadboard - if I replace this guy with that guy how does the sound change? Definitely not the intelligent way but I enjoy that pseudo-creative process.

Finally - you should get some resistor and capacitor kits. My wife got me kits from amazon that have a label "JoeKnows Electronics" on the boxes. I haven't come across anything I've wanted for that wasn't in those two boxes.

Oh - as an added bonus:

https://www.harborfreight.com/toolbox-organizer-with-4-drawers-68238.html

This is my favorite storage box - find you a super coupon and grab one or two of these.

Anyway -

My sincerest congratulations and my deepest condolences for the path on which you are about to embark.

• Fire TV Stick, which is a lower-cost alternative to the awesome Fire TV. (think Apple TV, but actually good)
  
  
• Raspberry Pi which is a tiny fully-functional/fully-featured ARM computer.
  
  
• Arduino, which is an easy-to-use electronics prototyping platform, great if you're interested in learning how to make your own electronics and whatnot. (you might also want this, this, this, this, and this. Should be less than $40 altogether, though you could also probably find like a starter kit that comes with an arduino, book, and components.)
  
  
• Huion drawing tablet, great for if you want to do digital art. I haven't used this model specifically, but I do have the (bigger/more expensive) Huion 610 Pro, which I love.
  
  
• Amazon Prime student was like $40 IIRC, not sure if that has changed though.

You could actually make these pretty easily. You'd just need a blue LED, a photoresistor, and a couple of volts. I'd say go with an LR44 since they're cheap, small, a couple volts, and will lie flat in the shoe. Do the math or play around with them to see how many you'll need (Depends on how you set up the circuit, though I'm guessing one in each shoe will be fine).

So the circuit is pretty simple with the three circuit elements (LED, photoresistor, battery) in series. It's a little tricky though, since the photoresistor's resistance increases as the amount of light hitting it increases. So if you just wired everything up in series, the LED would turn on when it's light outside... that's the opposite of what we want. But you can make a voltage divider circuit and include the photoresistor in that, so that the brightness of the room and the brightness of the LED are inversely proportional, which is good.

Once you have the circuit, you just have to find a way to somehow put it in the shoe. Take the sole out, drill a hole in the tip for the LED, and drill a hole on the side for the photoresistor. Then lay your circuit flat inside the shoe, position the LED and photoresistor accordingly, and then glue them in so they stay in place. Cover the circuit with a strip of duct tape so it stays down, and then cover that with a Dr. Scholl's to maximize comfort and durability.

If anyone actually wants to do this, let me know. I've linked to the parts you would need, and they're all pretty cheap (the Dr. Scholl's are the most expensive part). I can draw up a circuit schematic if anyone's interested so then it would just be a matter of you soldering, drilling, and gluing it together.

Edit: Might also be a good idea to include a switch so you can save on battery life. There are all kinds of switches out there to choose from, and you can put it pretty much anywhere in the circuit where all the current flows through (so avoid putting it in the voltage divider section). So that part of the design is totally up to you. Maybe drill another hole in the side of the shoes for the switches, maybe have them be toe-activated, it's your call.

Honestly you can get a bunch of the individual stuff separately on amazon. Here are some recommendations I have:

Get a volt meter that can measure ohms and current (mA):

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KHP6EIK/


Red/Green/Blue LEDs:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0059H5Z5O/

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004UMA60S/

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0059H5Z5O/


Breadboards:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01258UZMC/


Jumper wires:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ZWEFWO8/


pir (motion) sensors:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B017HP88VI/


transistors:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00R1M3DA4


resistors:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0185FGTSS/

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0185FGN98/


The multimeter is great, you can make sure you wont fry your GPIO outputs. Try not to pull over 16mA of current per pin to avoid damage. Use a 1k or 330 ohm resister accordingly. You can also do a lot of cool stuff with a transistors and LEDs.


I've been documenting a lot of the electronics stuff I've been teaching myself; About six months ago I was where you were, setting out trying to learn how to use all these components. Feel free to reach out if you have any questions. I'd recommend going to the oldest post on my blog and reading in order if you want some ideas: https://supertechnologyknowledgequest.blogspot.com

PM me with any questions, I'd be happy to point you in the right direction for anything you are trying to do for which I can help! Best of luck!

edit: the multimeter is no longer on amazon, just find one that lets you read resistance AND current (milliamps).

OK, I get the picture. That certainly puts things in perspective. I think you're on a solid track but I tend to think in terms of implementation issues. Now that I understand the task, let me suggest a few things.

• Your enclosure/box for the animal. You probably already intend to use a separate manual door to place the animal inside. If not, I suggest strongly you consider having a separate (manually operated) door to place animal inside. I suspect the plastic door may need to run slowly to overcome the weight, not sure...
  
• For this type of project, I consider your limit switch approach to be fine. But looking over the actual switch, I can see it won't lend itself to hold extra wiring (like a diode, capacitor PLUS the wires). Instead, it appears you need to use special female-crimp-lugs to connect to the switch male-lugs. So that indicates the need for some kind of wiring area (a wood block or perhaps a terminal strip or a small PC board) for solid connections to be made. It makes sense to have two such wiring sections -- one proximate to each limit switch. So I think its wise to be prepared to do wiring mostly off the switches such that components (Cap, Diode) can be connected to wires and wires then sent to motor and switches.
  
• I consider the addition of the non-polarized cap to be important to protect the diodes from voltage surge (breaking connection to motor coil) and keeping the limit switch contacts from getting damaged by sparks. Think of it as the cap used in ignition systems to protect what they call "points". It should keep things reliable. You don't need a failure in the field with this type situation.
  
• Another thought, suggest you build this with an eye on being serviceable. If your project is a great success, you may be using it far more than you think you will. If that is possible, you want to have spare parts for servicing, and build the project with an eye on being able to service it quickly (for example, repair it in the field). If that is possible, you may want to evaluate your build plan to incorporate a modular approach for easy service and repair. Something to consider...
  
  So, that's my 2 cents :). When do you start construction? Do you have a plan for building the enclosure? What overall weight are you envisioning I wonder.
  
  hth

Well I tend to get carried away. You will use fewer LEDs than you expect. I have a pile of the things, and dont think I will need to buy more for a decade. The first thing I ran out of in the kit was 10k resistors, and the first thing I had to buy that the kit didnt have were a bunch of 2n2222 transistors. Best bet is to find a list of projects that interest you and buy the parts for them. Buy more of any parts that are present in multiple projects. I bought capacitor, transistor, and diode kits from amazon that have some of the most common of each.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XSFNYFP/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01H1W6VV6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B077KM7XTY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

If you plan on making your own circuit boards (which you will if you want to keep your projects,) there are cheap perfboard assortments that are handy too. Last thing, because this list is getting out of hand, when I first started, I had electrical experience, but no electronics experience. When I started making my out circuit boards, I was using stranded wire, and tinning each wire before inserting it in the board. Worked just fine, but "hook up" wire (which I had never heard of), is solid core wire that doesnt need to be tinned. Good gravy did that speed up the process.

I thought I was done, but then I thought of more. I2C LCD screens are cool too.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01K1N4XM6/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/Qunqi-Serial-Backlight-Arduino-MEGA2560/dp/B01E4YUT3K/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1522421759&sr=1-1-spons&keywords=i2c+lcd&psc=1

They only use 4 pins including ground and power, instead of 12 or whatever the crap the standard ones need. Super easy to set up and use. Alright Im done. You wont be able to get on the plane if you try to take home any more than all that. :D

The 50K should be log, but I don't see any such indication on the 20K. Maybe a different pot would help? I did exactly what you're describing with these: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002IABLF8/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I did mine with a receiver, so I think the input impedance may have been higher. I'm pretty sure you want the pot value to be between the impedance values, so the DAC looks like a short and the amp looks like an open, but I'm not positive.

Edit: Nevermind, I found the source of the problem. Measured the coil impedance across each terminal of the motor, and got 50 ohms from brown to black, and for a moment I had about 10 ohms from purple to black, but then my meter went up to 500k, then I spun it a few times and got an open circuit, then short circuit....I opened it up, hoping that one of the input lead solder connections had cracked or something (the female spade terminals all looked good) and found this:

http://i.imgur.com/2teBSc9.jpg

That black part does not look good. Previously:

*****

After tearing into it further, I'm not so confident it's the capacitor anymore :( I ordered one anyways from Amazon because it's $12 and I can have it here Saturday - I probably can't even have a tech here by then - but I don't know if it will help me.

I measure 5.00 uF with my DMM (which I trust) on the fan pins and 50.1 uF on the compressor pins across the capacitor with those components disconnected. This makes me think that the capacitor might be good.

Following your flowchart, the indoor fan runs, the outdoor compressor runs, but the outdoor fan does not run at all. And the condenser gets hot QUICKLY.

Also, when the unit is on (fan obviously not moving), I see 50VAC between the contactor output (black) and start winding on the capacitor, (brown) and 243 VAC between the contactor and capacitor common terminal (purple).

But I get absolutely no torque of any kind out of the motor, not even buzzing. It spins smoothly by hand, though!

It is a 17-year-old Trane unit. I uploaded some pictures to http://imgur.com/a/tLs50.

Thanks again for your help!

impedance is different than resistance in that impedance is AC and varies depending on volume and the signal output. as long as you're not blasting it you should be fine since an 6 ohm speaker is only rated 6 ohm at its highest (lowest value 0 being infinite impedance)

if you wanted to be extra safe you could simply add a 2 ohm resistor in series with the positive lead and sticky tack it to the back of your speaker.

2 + 6 = 8


Uxcell a14012100ux0202 2 Piece 2 Ohm 100W 100W Aluminum Housing Wire-Wound Gold Tone Resistor: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific - https://www.amazon.com/a14012100ux0202-Aluminum-Housing-Wire-Wound-Resistor/dp/B00LUTDYD0/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1540523845&sr=8-4&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=2+ohm+resistor+100w&dpPl=1&dpID=41Hec4XSQeL&ref=plSrch



ohms are basically wiggle room in terms of circuitry. the resistor will increase the "size" of the circuit which reduces "pressure" I. e. impedance

you can even do a cool mod and add another tweeter facing backward in reverse polarity in series as above, or grab a super tweeter. you can also fire it straight up and the polarity will just be up to you based on your ceiling height. this will add more spaciousness or "air" and make your speakers sound larger and present more separation

I added a set of emits that way to my Kefs and it sounds fantastic. it sounds like I added a digit to the sound value with no drawbacks since the stereo imaging is really based on what hits your ears first, the multipath signals that reach your ears just reinforce the imaging and add depth

I'm using a 2i2 and not having any issues like this. I just tested it, and even with using a Shure SM58 (very different mic, SM58 is a vocal mic) and plugging in my acoustic electric the first few seconds of the track are completely silent on both channels.

I'm not much of an expert here but you may have either electronic or literal background noise. I used to run a Dean Markley Soundhole pickup to amp my acoustic guitar and it would have interference, and I just picked up a couple of ferrite cores from RadioShack for like $5. They seem like some kind of magic, but the magnetic ferrite core just snapped onto the line cord fixed my problem. You can find them on Amazon for like $4.

http://www.amazon.com/Ferrite-Core-Cord-Noise-Suppressor/dp/B0002MQGE0/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1449275303&sr=8-4&keywords=ferrite+core+1%2F4%22

The second thing may just be the fans on the laptop or anything else in the room. I'd try changing the power settings on the laptop to low power, that uses less energy and will spin the fans at lower rpm making them quieter.

Finally, I'd try the Line and INST selector switches as I think that might be part of your problem. I'm not much of an expert, but here's the manual page on the two options.

> The front panel input sockets are Neutrik Combo®, which accept either an XLR male connector (you
will probably have one on the end of your microphone cable) or a ¼” (6.35 mm) jack plug. Note the
Scarlett 2i2 has no “Mic/line” switch – the Focusrite preamplifier stage is automatically configured
for a microphone when you plug an XLR into the input, and for a line or instrument when you connect
a jack plug. Set the LINE/INST switch next to the socket to INST if you are connecting a musical
instrument (a guitar in the example) via an ordinary 2-pole (TS) guitar jack, or to LINE if you are
connecting a line level source such as the balanced output of a stage piano via a 3-pole (TRS) jack.
Note the Combo connector accepts both TRS and TS types of jack plug.

I'm fairly sure if you're using the SM57 mic it's using an XLR connector, what you definitely don't want is some kind of adapter that changes it from XLR (the three prong cord) to a 2-prong TS or TRS jack. XLR is a balanced cable and shouldn't have as many problems with interference. It seems like with XLR it doesn't matter what the selector switch is set at.

Hope this helps, good luck.

whoops! thanks! just canceled. i thought i was making things easier! i found two resistor sets that ranged from 0-10M:

Pixnor

Cutequeen

The Cutequeen certainly looks like a better value but I don't think I need that many resistors, so I went with the Pixnor set. For capacitors I think these should fit the bill:

Capacitor set

I read a bit about the different kinds of caps and decided that I didn't want to deal with electrolytic caps since I'm just starting out and don't want to have to worry about polarity.

Hopefully I picked the right components this time! Thanks again for the help!

You have a 12V fan but a 5.5V power supply? This sounds like a problem to me. I'd recommend a 12V, 0.5A adapter - I use this one - with a 500 ohm potentiometer.

I usually have to turn the rheostat up about half way to get past the fan's stall speed, and then it runs very slowly, and ramps up smoothly to top speed as I turn the dial. At top speed the vortex is so strong the stir bar gets caught in it and jumps the field.

It also helps to use very strong magnets, spaced exactly as far apart as the ends of the stir bar. If your drive magnets are half an inch apart, don't bother with a 1 inch stir bar.

Small bear electronics will have everything you need pretty much, digitech(great for bulk. You can get a 100 resistors for a dollar), and mouser. All websites.
I started off with a resistor kit and a capacitors kit on Amazon that were about 10 dollars each.

As far as part quality goes I personally dont think it matters that much. The type of capacitors(film,ceramic, electrolytic) can make a little bit of a difference but hardly. If the guide your following calls a certain type of capacitors just stick to the guide. Don't cheap out the input and output sockets though. Switchcraft is the way to go on thoses(small bear has them)

http://www.smallbear-electronics.mybigcommerce.com/ (easy to order. although they don't label parts sometimes. That can be annoying if your a beginner)

https://www.digikey.com/ ( great for bulk but can be confusing to order from. you have pay attention to the the details.


https://www.mouser.com/
(Same as digikey somtimes cheaper)

https://www.mammothelectronics.com/
(Alot like small bear except they label their parts and are a little more expensive last time I checked)



E-Projects EPC-102 43 Value Resistor Kit, 1 Ohm - 10M Ohm (Pack of 1075) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00E3JGGF2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_Vgh0BbZEHX2J5

If you don't mind modding one you can get good value for money by buying this:

http://www.voxamps.com/us/pedals/wahwah_v845/

replacing the inferior pot with this

http://www.amazon.com/Jim-Dunlop-ECB24B-Potz-Crybaby/dp/B000EEL5W4

Then modifying it for true bypass with these instructions:

http://stinkfoot.se/archives/561

I've done these steps and got a good result.

Most any dimmer that works on "chopping" the AC cycle can cause buzzing. You'd have to go with a pretty fancy and more expensive one that could generate a cleaner signal if it bothers you.

Something like a variac would give you clean power with no possibility of buzzing.

http://www.amazon.com/Variac-Variable-Transformer-300va-Output/dp/B006NGI8VS

It would be pushing this one right to it's full rating, but this one should work.

Edit- Here's a 5 amp with a little more capacity to be safe:
http://www.amazon.com/Variac-Variable-Transformer-500va-Output/dp/B006NGI2RS/

I have a bunch of these on hand from some other projects... will they work as well?

It's not normal speaker wire, I'm using these (supposedly shielded) instrument cables, running to powered studio monitors. Will that work with the ferrite rods?

Thanks for the info! Just to make sure, do these work? https://www.amazon.com/eBoot-Photoresistor-Sensitive-Resistor-Dependent/dp/B01N7V536K/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?keywords=light+sensors+arduino&qid=1562689767&s=gateway&sprefix=light+sensors+&sr=8-5

is it a good radio station? If so, enjoy :-)

cable may be acting as an antenna, try using a [ferrite core] (http://www.amazon.com/Ferrite-Core-Cord-Noise-Suppressor/dp/B0002MQGE0) to suppress EMI. Make sure you get the right size!

In a pot there's a wiper on a thin disk of material. As the wiper moves along the disk, the value of the pot changes. If you move the pot a lot, eventually you'll start wearing down the disk. When this happens, the pot will make scratching sounds when you move it.

Normally this is not a big deal, you don't frequently play and move a knob at the same time. But, with Wah pedals it is, since the foot pedal is attached to a pot - when ever you move it it will make scratching noises.

edit: and because this is a common problem with Wahs, it is usually pretty easy to buy a replacement for ~$25 link (you may be able to find them for less somewhere)

https://www.amazon.com/Ferrite-Noise-Filter-Cable-3-5mm/dp/B01N0AV746/

Put one of these on each end of your USB and speaker wires. Your wiring is acting like an antenna and picking up his transmission. Ferrite beads/chokes will help filter that out.

[This] (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA2C50TC0036) or [This] (http://www.amazon.com/Ideaworks-Distance-USB-Powered-Antenna-72-6612/dp/B00BDE4IUK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1376887058&sr=8-1&keywords=ideaworks) We have had amazing results with the second choice.

I use this guy cheap and it works great

Welcome! The brains of the operation is a Raspberry Pi. Connected to the Raspberry Pi are a bevy of sensors: Moisture, Temp/Humidity, Sunlight

They get checked every 10 mins and stored in a postgres db on AWS

I'd like a solution too. I've added ferrite cores (https://www.amazon.com/Ferrite-Core-Cord-Noise-Suppressor/dp/B0002MQGE0) to the supplied audio cable and I still get hissing and popping.

I personally would go with something more like this. As the proximity to the socket and size difference of the posted cap may cause issues (8mm x 15mm this value is from the data sheet given on the link, not the description vs 6.3mm x 9mm this is more likely than the given 6x9 as that's the only size I found on aliexpress).

NOTE: I don't know what the code on the top is, I'm assuming production code (date / line / batch kind of info).

[Looks like this one.](New 5PCS 820uF 3V 820uF3V 3V820uf 69mm 6X9mm Solid Capacitor https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FYX2D7Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_rLf3Cb17KGAFN)

500 ohm surface mount pots:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/500-OHM-Linear-Taper-Rotary-Potentiometer-B500-Pot-/280672832335

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Alpha-500-OHM-Linear-Taper-Pot-B500-Split-Shaft-Solder-17mm-Potentiometer-EO-/121183474239?_trksid=p2054897.l4275

http://www.amazon.com/Parts-Express-500-Ohm-Potentiometer/dp/B0002KRE16

add a fancy guitar knob of your liking

Still can online, even cheaper. Pack of 1120 resistors, in 56 different values, costs 11 dollars. Less than 1 cent a piece

https://www.google.com/search?q=wifi+extender+400+ft&client=safari&hl=en-us&prmd=sivn&source=lnt&tbs=qdr:y&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwi9tMve0fPkAhWFq1kKHRGvCCMQpwV6BAgPEBE&biw=768&bih=858

The idea is to beam wifi at the roof level where you have line of sight, then use ordinary wifi access point in the cabin.

Several solutions exist. Basically two antennas pointing at each other, about a foot square.

https://www.amazon.com/Ideaworks-Distance-USB-Powered-Antenna-72-6612/dp/B00BDE4IUK

https://www.amazon.com/s?k=the+best+directional+wifi+range+extender&ref=nb_sb_noss

All over. Here's the first thing I see on amazon http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00E3JGGF2/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?qid=1408248180&sr=1-2 bit there's digikey, frys, jameco, eBay

Random shot in the dark, but...

Get yourself pone of these (or something similar - can always yank one off of an old power cord too) and wrap the USB wire through the center of the core twice.

Its possible there's some interference traveling down the ground wire/shield and into the speakers even if its not an analog audio connection.

Try a front USB port instead of a back one, or vice versa.

There is also the possibility that the card is dragging the system down and not giving the USB chipset enough resources to handle the audio stream. Try updating drivers for the USB device as well.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0185FGN98/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1500397995&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=330%2Bohm%2Bresistor&dpPl=1&dpID=41zlzAaQE-L&ref=plSrch&th=1&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/Ferrite-Core-Cord-Noise-Suppressor/dp/B0002MQGE0

Here’s a listing of all the included material

eBoot 30 Pieces Photoresistor Photo Light Sensitive Resistor Light Dependent Resistor 5 mm GM5539 5539 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N7V536K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_-wV6CbC6051BJ

Beadalon Artistic Wire 30-Gauge Bare Copper Wire, 30-Yards https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0048927RI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_vEV6CbC9KF2ZQ


MCIGICM 200pcs 2n3904 npn Transistor, 2n3904 Bipolar (BJT) Transistors NPN 40V 200mA 300MHz 625mW TO-92-3 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XRBLKDR/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_UEV6Cb66Z0SC2


3mm Diffused LED Diode Assortment Kit - Pack of Assorted Color LEDs and Resistors (1000 pcs) - Red, Green, Yellow, Blue and White Light Emiting Diode Indicator Lights from Plusivo https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GBFJ823/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_dFV6CbWBSS5AD

Buy some ferrite cores (check the right diameters), wrap them around the power cable(s).

I purchased this for a similar problem you have. Works very well. Plugged it into my PC and the wifi was just as quick as if I was next to the router.

https://www.amazon.com/Ideaworks-Distance-USB-Powered-Antenna-72-6612/dp/B00BDE4IUK/ref=sr_1_3?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1486736702&sr=1-3&keywords=long+range+wifi+antenna

Sorry it was late lat night when I posted. I have a AudioFire 2, and I found that if I didn't disable the onboard sound in my bios then I would get that sound. Even if OS X doesn't detect your sound (Realtek) it is still active on your motherboard.

I also have now added ferrite chokes to all audio and power lines going in and out of my computer to my amp. This includes firewire and usb cables. I actually bought new firewire and usb cables that had the ferrite chokes already in them, the link from below was for all of my power cables.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002MQGE0/ref=oh_details_o02_s00_i00