(Part 2) Reddit mentions: The best power strips

Reddit did not like my text. here it is. I wanted to replace my glass L-shaped computer desk as I had it for 10 years and wanted to fix issues I had with it. So I laid out my requirements:

1. I wanted a wood top, as glass, while easy to clean and maintain, is colder than wood.
   
2. Improve cable management to hide as many cables as possible. Glass/metal table not effective here
   
3. Hidden power strip
   
4. No table legs blocking me from moving back and forth between home and work computer.
   
5. Current glass desk is 30 inches deep, I like that depth.
   
6. I wanted the table height to be able to fit my file cabinet underneath to clean up the space
   
   I looked at roomandboard.com, and found a table I liked, but not cheap, with shipping, around $1700.
   
   http://www.roomandboard.com/catalog/office/desks/parsons-leg-l-shaped-desks
   
   So can i do it myself for less?
   
   I started by looking on r/DIY and came across pipe desks. Great idea, industrial look, and would fit in with my building as i live in a gentrified industrial neighborhood.
   Here was a great example:
   
   https://www.reddit.com/r/DIY/comments/2w3phn/pipe_and_butcher_block_ldesk/
   Shoutout to u/tylergarner as I stole some of his ideas, such as the powerstrip he used and the metal mending strips. Thanks!
   
   My issues with this DIY (not everyone has these constraints)
   
7. Having to strip/paint pipe - i live in a loft and have limited space, fumes/vapors will kill brain cells.
   
8. Loved the wood, but would have to sand, stain and poly it. Sand would get all over the loft and again, fumes/vapors.
   
9. I am not experienced with staining, so may screw it up.
   
   So i needed to solve the wood top issues and the legs problem.
   
   Solving the Table top issue.
   
   I looked online for options for wood, and found options besides Lumber Liquidators that have finished wood tops
   www.crosscuthardwoods.com (local portland, oregon store 2 miles from my loft) - they carried two brands
   
10. Michigan Maple Butcher Block http://www.butcherblock.com/products/residential-products/residential-counter-tops/
    
11. John Boos - here is an example on amazon
    http://www.amazon.com/John-Boos-Thick-Commercial-Butcher/dp/B005IZ2EZQ/ref=sr_1_19?srs=2594426011&ie=UTF8&qid=1450283655&sr=8-19&keywords=john+boos+maple
    
    Local companies in your city may be able to order these or maybe a different brand
    
    Benefits of buying finished
    
    1. looks great
       
    2. Quicker/less work
       
    3. can be ordered with poly finish (no chemicals)
       
    4. can be custom ordered with edge (e.g., bullnose, square edge) and size
       
       Issues - costs can be higher and staining is not possible
       
       Things to consider if you choose this approach - Ensure you know if you wanted finished (Poly) or unfinished. You can get it either way. John Boos will burn their logo into the wood unless requested not to have name.
       
       I decided on 60 by 30 by 1.5 inches thick Maple, square edge, poly and no logo. Good news is that crosscut had it in stock by both vendors.
       John Boos $328 and Michigan Maple ($298). I went with John Boos as the finish was smoother and the wood pieces were the length of the table, not the traditional butcher block style.
       I bought two.
       
       Solving the Leg issue
       
       I searched on line for "metal table legs" and found several vendors.
       http://www.tablelegsonline.com/table-legs.html
       http://www.tablelegworld.com/Table-Height-Table-Legs
       Ikea sells them as well
       
       I was unsure the height so i went with cheap and fast, adjustable black legs from Ikea. $15/each needed 7 ($105 total)
       One of the two tables is short a leg, below I talk about how i support the missing leg.
       https://us-mg5.mail.yahoo.com/neo/launch?action=showLetter&umid=2_0_0_1_344973_AIt2imIAABORVnERMgfrWKGy%2F3A&box=Inbox&src=td&.rand=1808515774
       
       The legs are ok, adjustable, and low shine black, but not as rigid as I wanted. Not an issue when assembled, but more just me knowing it could be better. I later found out that i could buy the cool square legs from Room and Board for $40 a piece.
       
       Connecting the two tables together
       
       I saw that u/tylergarner used a window sash to connect the two tables together and I was going to run with that, but I then saw this idea on the crosscut site.
       http://www.crosscuthardwoods.com/tite-joint.html
       
       I loved the idea of tite joint, but as I did not want to burrow into the table so i looked around and found this, which I installed.
       
       http://www.wwhardware.com/epco-joint-fasteners-e0026e $15 shipped.
       
       I bought a much longer screw from Ace HW to enable more space between the brackets so I am not screwing too close to the edge.
       You may be able to go to a countertop store and buy one from them as they use them to connect countertops together.
       
       Supporting the missing leg
       
       I installed two of the following
       http://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-10-in-Zinc-Plated-Mending-Plate-15390/202034036 ($3 each) I used #12 screws to mount these.
       These work very well, zero sag, even after sitting on it for a few mins (155lbs).
       
       Costs before my options (Around $800). So I saved $900 over the room and board solution. I am happy.
       
       Options I chose to install.
       
       Wire management - Ikea
       Cheap and highly effective. $10 each, bought three.
       http://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/30200253/
       
       Drawer to hold pens, paper and the like
       http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KWM8EEK?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00
       Love it, $35 from amazon - did not find many options here. Maybe searched on the wrong terms
       
       Power Strip
       http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0027D3LNG?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s01
       
       Lots of plugs and spaced out so no conflicts accessing them, $28 amazon
       
       Adjustable Keyboard Tray
       http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001B0DCOO?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00
       $95 and a crappy 3M design, sticks about 1 inch out from the edge of the table when installed as designed. would not buy again.
       
       How did i mount my PC underneath my desk?
       
       I had a smaller version of the following.
       http://www.storables.com/10-x-24-shelf.html
       I used 1.5 inch fender washers and screws where the legs go to mount to the table, then I used cable ties to hold of the PC (intel NUC) and USB drives.
       
       
       Note:
       I did not use any of the screws provided in the legs, or options i selected. Maple is very hard and the philip screws they provided strip very, very, very easy. I went to my local Ace Hardware store and bought my screws. 5 min walk and could by individually versus a whole box from HD/Lowes. Saved money and frustration.
       I generally got the biggest diameter screws I could get the fit the hole for the legs, and they are in there, zero issues. Ensure you drill pilot holes to avoid splitting the wood, I followed this guide for hardwood and was mostly successful http://engineershandbook.com/Tables/woodscrewpilotholes.htm
       
       Options to lower costs
       
       
12. Buy a solid wood door and rip to size. Lowes and HD sell them.
    http://www.homedepot.com/p/JELD-WEN-30-in-x-80-in-Woodgrain-Flush-Solid-Core-Unfinished-Hardwood-Interior-Door-Slab-THDJW160700464/202036255
    
13. Buy a cheaper type of prefinished wood than maple.
    
14. Ikea apparently sells some countertops that can/maybe able to be used, but I did not look into it.

This option is pretty pricey, but since you didn't list a budget, this is (in my opinion) the bar-none best desk money can buy. I have one and almost one year later I'm still freaking in love with the thing. It's built to last and I don't see myself ever getting rid of it (unless I move someplace where it doesn't fit, but then again, I probably wouldn't move to a place where it wouldn't fit :) )

UpLift Standing Desk: http://www.upliftdesk.com/stand-up-desk-with-bamboo-top/

A few of the nice points:

• Standing desk, so fully height-adjustable
  
• Comes in a variety of sizes up to 80"x30" with many different options (their other models come in different woods too)
  
• Vast, unobstructed desk space with plenty of room in the corners for accessories & lamp
  
• Desk legs are out-of-the-way (to the side) so there is nothing blocking your legs in or cramping your sitting/motion. Plenty of room for PC, paper shredder, subwoofer, trash can, etc. underneath without sacrificing leg space
  
• Desk thickness is perfect for monitor arms and microphone arms (and I HIGHLY recommend arms for your monitors, you don't realize how much desk space you get back until you own them!!)
  
• Built to be extremely solid and sturdy. No plastic anywhere and (as you'll find when you assemble it) the designers have gone a bit overboard on making sure the connections are rigid and plentiful.
  
• The motors are quiet, quick, and powerful
  
• Cable management on the underside of the desk via Cable Clips keeps everything sleek, clean, and beautiful
  
• Screw one of these babies into the desk underneath and towards the back to easily power all of your accessories (they also have offerings with more plugs, if you really need that)
  
• The underside is also perfect for a USB Hub or other accessory - just Command Strip it or screw it into the bottom, slightly recessed from the front lip of the desk to have a super slick, subtle, and clean IO panel for your phone, USB sticks, etc. Consider a second USB hub hidden elsewhere underneath for peripherals that are always plugged in (keyboard, mouse, microphone, headphone amp). This is great because only one cable needs to actually go to your PC, and new peripherals are really easy to add.
  
• The power strip + USB hub strat means that you end up with only a small handful of cables actually coming way from the desk, which you can feed through cable braid for a super-sharp and clean/tidy look
  
  If anyone is interested in buying one, don't bother getting their optional "cable management" kit, the recommendations above work way better in practice.

It's not that hard to do all by yourself if you're a bit handy. Here are some links to get you started:

Joystick and Button Kit. There are many on ebay, look for best price and type you want - be careful if you get buttons separate from encoders as they have different sized wire connectors. Also see the shipping time as many come from China and may take a month or more to get to you:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Zero-Delay-Arcade-Game-DIY-Kits-Black-LED-Button-Joystick-USB-Encoder-AC1473/232958201621

Raspberry Pi 3 B+:

https://www.amazon.com/RS-Components-Raspberry-Pi-Motherboard/dp/B07BFH96M3

You'll also need a raspberry pi power supply (micro usb), and microsd card (both easily found on Amazon).

There are a lot of monitor choices depending on what you're looking for. You can get an old LCD monitor for cheap but should check the viewing angles if you'd like to use it in portrait mode. If you go that route and the monitor is VGA you'll need a VGA to HDMI converter:

https://www.amazon.com/Adapter-CableCreation-Female-Converter-NoteBook/dp/B013G4C17G

The Raspberry Pi supports HDMI so any modern monitor would work without the converter.

Alternatively you can get a raw LCD panel by itself and drive it with a converter board:

https://www.amazon.com/Controller-HSD190MEN4-M170EN06-1280x1024-30Pins/dp/B06X9NJ2NR

though it's probably easiest to get an old or new monitor and take it apart or hide everything except the screen with a custom bezel.

In terms of speakers I like these Logitech Z213 2.1 speakers:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Logitech-Z213-2-1-Speakers-for-PC-and-Mobile-Devices-980-000941/181060190908

They are cheap and have good enough sound for the old games and with the sub-woofer it actually sounds better than the old games did. They are amplified and can just plug into a power strip inside the case so no raw wiring to do. Also they have a wired volume control that you could mount somewhere convenient. Just be sure to buy from someone that will accept returns or that is shipping you new product instead of refurbished as I've gotten a couple bad ones.

I also like this power strip as it has enough outlets and USBs to drive everything including the Raspberry Pi:

https://www.amazon.com/Protector-Charger-100-240V-Computer-Transformers/dp/B01JRXRTC2

For one of my builds I also bought USB extension cables and some USB LED lights to use behind the marquee. Using this approach the wiring for everything will be very straightforward. No special electrical stuff to deal with.

You may also want to add a coin door that you could even make work by connecting the coin mechanism to one of the inputs on the joystick controllers:

https://www.amazon.com/Arcade-Coin-Quarter-Acceptor-X-Arcade/dp/B005EN6SUY

Possible software to run:

https://retropie.org.uk/

http://blog.sheasilverman.com/pimame-raspberry-pi-os-download/

Also, there are other options that remove the need for software configuration and joystick calibration that you might want to look into if you're not very technical. Notably Jamma boards which are more ready to go:

https://retroactivearcade.ca/collections/jamma-game-boards

You'd use that rather than the Raspbery Pi and the joystick encoders but you'd still use the same joysticks and buttons. The wiring is a bit more complicated with a Jamma board than with those handy joystick encoders, but still pretty straightforward.

If you have any questions send them my way. I've done a few rebuilds, a brand new machine from scratch and am in the middle of another one from scratch.

It's very rewarding. I even bought a wide format printer so I could print my own graphics on adhesive vinyl and apply it to the cabinets instead of paint.

Also, poke around the net and you'll find PDF plans for your favorite old game cabinet which you can print out and piece together and use as a template to cut the sides of your cabinet. I don't know about you but I'm very nostalgic about the old cabinets, their unique shapes and the creative art from back then so I prefer having a specific machine than a generic one. But to each their own. :)

Good luck!

Oh heeyyy. I'm a Virginian as well! :D Didn't attend VT but being here in the Hampton Roads area, they're all about them Hokies! haha.

Hmm...little about me, I'm Christine. I'm a makeup artist. I do all kinds of things from prosthetics to beauty stuff. My favorite would have to be anything that involves any kind of blood and gore. I'm a bit of a weirdo, I know. :P I am recently engaged and very excited about it! So if I win, please pick something off of my wedding wishlist. :D

As for my suggestions, here is a little list I've put together for you:

http://www.amazon.com/Trademark-Poker-Maverick-Dice-Style/dp/B000WZPU9Y/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1408513313&sr=8-7&keywords=poker+set

• Because you know, loving poker you should probably have a set of chips yourself.
  
  http://www.amazon.com/Breaking-Bad-Better-Light-Large/dp/B00DQW52D4/ref=sr_1_18?ie=UTF8&qid=undefined&sr=8-18&keywords=breaking+bad
  
  
• Better Call Saul Breaking Bad TSHIRT, cheap and awesome.
  
  http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-WA850RE-Universal-One-button-Indicator/dp/B00E98O7GC/ref=sr_1_52?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=undefined&sr=1-52
  
  
• Ever have issues with spotty wifi? This works so well. I love it.
  
  http://www.amazon.com/Tripp-Lite-TLP606-Protector-Outlet/dp/B0000AI0N1/ref=sr_1_260?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1408514026&sr=1-260
  
  
• Surge protectors because with as many gadgets and systems you may have, it might just be super important! haha

For 300 bucks personally I would go with decent Powered speakers. Make sure you pick up a phono preamp as well if you go this route as opposed to using an amp+passive speakers (which is much more expensive, unless you go used). That's the setup I did, minimalist, clean, decent value, but still relatively cheap. Here's my setup for example...

https://www.amazon.com/rolls-VP29-Phono-Preamp/dp/B0002BG2R2 - Rolls VP29 Phono Preamp

https://www.amazon.com/Edifier-R1700BT-Bluetooth-Bookshelf-Speakers/dp/B016PATXSI - Edifier R1700BT Powered Speakers with Bluetooth - For the value these sound really awesome. Only downside is there are not great with lots of bass, they flubber. In retrospect I might have gotten something different, but most stuff I listen to isn't bass heavy so I'm not torn over it. I also wanted bluetooth in this room because it's a guest room.

https://www.amazon.com/Pro-Ject-Elemental-Gray-Turntable-Grey/dp/B01CZW826Y?th=1 - Pro-Ject Elemental Turntable - Great value turntable on the low-end if you buy new.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0000513O4/ - Tripp Lite Isobar surge protector - Because I'm paranoid about this stuff and these are high end surge protectors that we use at work. They are bulletproof.

----------------------------------

So anyways... for 300 bucks you can pick up the same phono preamp and these...

https://www.amazon.com/Edifier-R2000DB-Bluetooth-Bookshelf-Speakers/dp/B01CDU3IAI

I hear the R2000's don't have the same bass issue that the r1700 does, but they cost a lot more. Edifier is kind of one of the best in value right now, it's "Chi-Fi" good. The hardcore audiophile kiddos are often brand-whores, so take their allegiance with a grain of salt and try to remain objective, read reviews, technical analysis, etc..

https://www.amazon.com/Audioengine-A2-Powered-Speaker-System/

The A2's always get good reviews in this price range, I have no personal experience, but there are recent reviews that show problems with quality control, maybe the company is getting worse?

https://www.amazon.com/Klipsch-2017-R-14PM-Powered-Monitor/dp/B075JRF295

A lot of people swear by the Klipsch powered monitors once you get into this price range, but I don't have any personal experience, maybe someone else can chime in, just showing it here because you might want to consider it, read about them more.

https://www.amazon.com/Polk-Audio-Signature-S20-Bookshelf/dp/B01LVWWXQG

These are just barely in the price range, definitely consider them, my friend has a Polk setup and he loves it. These seem to get good reviews from hip hop heads too, so the bass response must be good.

It really depend on your musical taste, the room, what kind of setup you are wanting to go with overall and for what purpose though. If you want to be able to handle everything, up the budget, or buy used honestly. If you stay on a small budget and buy new, you are going to have to have compromises. I was wiling to have that compromise, but others may not.

Okay I have a few things I think would be good to have. First of all target sells these amazing sheet sets. They're inexpensive and they last a long time. Whether you're dorming or not its good to have one of these. Do yourself a favor and get one of these and maybe one of these as well so you're not fighting over plugs. I see you play some instruments so its good to have some of these. Do yourself a favor and get one of these but this one may be better for you. This would be great for all your laundry and accessories. And last but not least this is an amazing desk to have for your computer and books (plus its free shipping :D).

If I win I'd love this and this

Would you like a falafel with that?

I wish I could get that nuanced. I'm sure the tech will be there soon, but right now my setup is also just on/off for each fan. I have them plugged into a smart strip like this, and created commands like the ones below:

"Start workout"

• Turns on Kickr
  
• Turns on left fan
  
  ​
  
  "More wind"
  
  
• Turns on right fan
  
  ​
  
  "Less wind"
  
  
• Turns off right fan
  
  ​
  
  "End workout"
  
  
• Turns off Kickr
  
• Turns off left fan
  
• Turns off right fan

Personally I'm not a big fan of just power strips because most of them don't do much to protect your PC. So it depends on how good the power is in your home and how much you're willing to spend. If you have good clean power and rarely experience brownouts/blackouts then I would recommend a decent APC surge protector like this one. If however you have had a few brownouts/blackouts and/or would like your PC to maintain power should one occur then I would recommend an APC UPS. How much you spend will be dependent on how long of a battery backup you want. This one would give you a good 5 - 10 minutes (approximately, depending on your PC) of power while this one would give you around 30 minutes.

Here is my build list formated for reddit

Group | Name | Price | Quantity | Total | Link
--- | --- | --- | --- | --- | ---
Pc | (Everything Inside the case) | | | |
$1,601.62 | Intel Core i7-6700K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor | $347.00 | 1 | $347.00 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B012M8LXQW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| Cooler Master Hyper D92 54.8 CFM Rifle Bearing CPU Cooler | $44.80 | 1 | $44.80 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NXLYE4G/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| Gigabyte GA-Z170X-UD5 ATX LGA1151 Motherboard | $171.49 | 1 | $171.49 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B012N6EW6G/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| Corsair Vengeance LPX 32GB (4 x 8GB) DDR4-2666 Memory | $129.99 | 1 | $129.99 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00OTJZTZE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| Samsung 850 EVO-Series 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | $97.99 | 1 | $97.99 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00OAJ412U/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| Hitachi HD​S723020BLA​642 | $58.00 | 3 | $174.00 | EBay
| EVGA GeForce GTX 1070 8GB FTW Gaming ACX 3.0 Video Card | $459.99 | 1 | $459.99 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01I60OGUK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| EVGA 850W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply | $90.39 | 1 | $90.39 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KYK1CC6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| XFX AMD Radeon HD 5450 1GB | $29.99 | 2 | $59.98 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005IUW7YE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| PWM Female to 4 x PWM Male Computer Case Fan Splitter | $6.50 | 2 | $13.00 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DYQRFY6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| Sabrent 2.5" SSD & SATA Hard Drive to Desktop 3.5" | $12.99 | 1 | $12.99 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00UN550AC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| 80MM 5000RPM Fan | $0.00 | 2 | $0.00 |
| 92MM 5000RPM Fan | $0.00 | 4 | $0.00 |
Monitors | | | | |
$744.66 | Seiki Pro SM28UTR 28-Inch 4K UHD 3840x2160 | $195.69 | 1 | $195.69 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B013XWQF28/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| AOC e2460Sd 24-Inch Widescreen LED Monitor | $142.99 | 3 | $428.97 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C99MUHQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| Dell 17" 5:4 | $30.00 | 4 | $120.00 | EBay
Cables | | | | |
$137.77 | Cable Matters Gold Plated DisplayPort to DisplayPort Cable 10 Feet | $11.99 | 1 | $11.99 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005H3Q5E0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| Cable Matters Active DisplayPort to DVI Male to Female Adapter | $19.99 | 2 | $39.98 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EDT01TO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| DVI Male to Female 90 Degree Adapter Connector | $4.43 | 3 | $13.29 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008X0ZJZ0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| 15ft 28AWG CL2 Dual Link DVI-D Cable - Black | $10.47 | 3 | $31.41 | https://www.monoprice.com/product?c_id=102&cp_id=10209&cs_id=1020902&p_id=2760&seq=1&format=2
| 15ft Super VGA M/M | $5.69 | 4 | $22.76 | https://www.monoprice.com/product?c_id=102&cp_id=10201&cs_id=1020101&p_id=3622&seq=1&format=2
| 15ft USB 2.0 A Male to A Female Extension | $1.87 | 5 | $9.35 | https://www.monoprice.com/product?c_id=103&cp_id=10303&cs_id=1030304&p_id=5435&seq=1&format=2
| 25ft hdmi cable | $8.99 | 1 | $8.99 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00SKVMHI4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Desk Accesseries | | | | |
$263.49 | Perixx PX-5200 Cherry MX Blue | $72.91 | 1 | $72.91 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NY45NCY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| Logitech C310 Webcam | $31.93 | 1 | $31.93 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003LVZO8S/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| Lapel Mics | $6.50 | 1 | $6.50 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005DJOIHE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| FingerPrint Reader | $12.58 | 1 | $12.58 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000HHHP7C/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| Mouse Pad | $8.99 | 1 | $8.99 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GB0IF50/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| Headset Func HS260 | $79.99 | 1 | $79.99 | https://www.amazon.com/FUnc-FUNC-HS-260-1ST-fUnc-HS-260/dp/B00HH3H83U
| Altec ACS 54 - Speaker | $0.00 | 1 | $0.00 |
| Logitech G700S | $50.59 | 1 | $50.59 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BFOEY3Y/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Audio Accesseries | | | | |
$58.33 | BEHRINGER MICROAMP HA400 | $24.99 | 1 | $24.99 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000KIPT30/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| 5-Pack 6.35mm Male to 3.5mm Female Adapter | $7.99 | 1 | $7.99 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00XAQD4YA/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| 3.5mm Male to 2 x 3.5mm Female Splitter Cable | $3.99 | 1 | $3.99 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0081ZBNI4/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| Coupler 3.5 mm Female - 3.5 mm Female Stereo or Mono | $3.93 | 1 | $3.93 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000068O4N/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| 3 feet Slim 3.5mm Stereo Audio Cable - M/M | $2.71 | 2 | $5.42 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004G3UK5C/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| 3-Feet 3.5mm Stereo Male to Female Extension Cable, 5-Pack | $12.01 | 1 | $12.01 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00SWOJLSS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Lighting | | | | |
$86.88 | Studio Designs Swing Arm Lamp Black | $24.75 | 2 | $49.50 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00I2S7MHQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| Lutron TT-300NLH-BL Credenza Lamp Dimmer Black | $14.83 | 1 | $14.83 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00024BJZE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| Triple Outlet Swivel Adapter, White | $3.27 | 1 | $3.27 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000HJBENG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| Daylight LED Light Bulb 15W | $9.64 | 2 | $19.28 | https://www.walmart.com/ip/Great-Value-GVRLA1850ND-Great-Value-LED-15W-A19-Light-Bulb/38596922
Cable Managment | | | | |
$18.81 | 100 Velcro Ties | $5.00 | 2 | $10.00 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001E1Y5O6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| 100 Releasable cable ties | $2.47 | 3 | $7.41 | https://www.monoprice.com/product?c_id=105&cp_id=10520&cs_id=1052012&p_id=5795&seq=1&format=2
| Cable Clip nais | $0.70 | 2 | $1.40 | https://www.monoprice.com/product?c_id=105&cp_id=10520&cs_id=1052006&p_id=5834&seq=1&format=2
Power | | | | |
$53.13 | Monster MP AV 750 Audio Video PowerCenter | $18.99 | 1 | $18.99 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004ETIKH8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| AmazonBasics 6-Outlet Surge Protector Power Strip 2-Pack | $12.99 | 1 | $12.99 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00TP1BWMK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| 3 Outlet Single-Tap Wall Tap | $4.00 | 2 | $8.00 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007XQORTO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| 15ft 16AWG Power Cord Cable | $5.20 | 1 | $5.20 | https://www.monoprice.com/product?c_id=102&cp_id=10228&cs_id=1022801&p_id=5287&seq=1&format=2
| 10ft 18AWG Right Angle Power Cord Cabl | $2.65 | 3 | $7.95 | https://www.monoprice.com/product?c_id=102&cp_id=10228&cs_id=1022809&p_id=7677&seq=1&format=2
Network | | | | |
$33.98 | TP-LINK 8-Port Gigabit Desktop Switch | $22.99 | 1 | $22.99 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001EVGIYG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| 5-Pack, Cat6 Ethernet Patch Cable in Blue 3 Feet | $10.99 | 1 | $10.99 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C2B81K6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Monitor Mount | | | | |
$215.27 | Arm wall mount | $17.54 | 3 | $52.62 | https://www.monoprice.com/product?c_id=109&cp_id=10828&cs_id=1082821&p_id=12232&seq=1&format=2
| Top wall mount bracket | $4.80 | 4 | $19.20 | https://www.monoprice.com/product?c_id=109&cp_id=10828&cs_id=1082821&p_id=3005&seq=1&format=2
| Center Monitor Mount | $7.99 | 1 | $7.99 | https://www.monoprice.com/product?c_id=109&cp_id=10828&cs_id=1082821&p_id=4564&seq=1&format=2
| 2x8 | $7.47 | 3 | $22.41 | https://www.lowes.com/pd/Top-Choice-Common-2-in-x-8-in-x-10-ft-Actual-1-5-in-x-7-25-in-x-10-ft-Lumber/4082916
| 2x4 | 2.55 | 1 | $2.55 | https://www.lowes.com/pd/Common-2-in-x-4-in-x-8-ft-Actual-1-5-in-x-3-5-in-x-8-ft-Stud/1000074211
| 3" clamp | $5.98 | 6 | $35.88 | https://www.lowes.com/pd/IRWIN-QUICK-GRIP-3-in-Clamp/50214643
| 4" Hinge | $2.81 | 2 | $5.62 | https://www.lowes.com/pd/Gatehouse-4-in-H-Oil-Rubbed-Bronze-Interior-Exterior-Mortise-Door-Hinge/4772785
| Wood Screws | $9.00 | 1 | $9.00 | Lowes
| Assorted brackets/hardware | $25.00 | 1 | $25.00 | Lowes
| Case Rack Mount | $35.00 | 1 | $35.00 | EBay
Misc | | | | |
$35.97 | Steam Link | $19.99 | 1 | $19.99 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B016XBGWAQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| Bluetooth Adapter | $7.99 | 1 | $7.99 | GRANDCOW Bluetooth 4.0 USB Adapter Dongle for Windows 10/ 8.1 / 8/ 7 / Vista / XP
| 19 Key Numeric Keypad | $7.99 | 1 | $7.99 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005DJSAAU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Nearly every internally powered speaker that's of the budget range will have some level of hiss or sound floor because of the type of amp used. There's a number of downfalls of the LSR305's and the moderate sound floor is just one of them. Most people use them in rooms that aren't that quiet (computer or other fans going) or only turn them on when they're playing something to get around it. The LSR305's don't perform all that well when playing on super low volume anyway so it's just a poor choice for what you're trying to do. Possibly a solution to what you're doing is to get a power detecting power strip which shuts off certain plugs when no power draw is detected on the main plug. When your TV quits drawing power the plug that the LSR305's are plugged into also turns off. Something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/BESTEK-Protector-8-Outlet-Individual-Supported/dp/B01DP9M3DO

No experience with that specific one, just showing the type of thing that would appear to solve your issue. But if you don't like the speakers when they're in use then get something else, the LSR305's just do not do well as an always on component in a quiet bedroom, especially for a TV because they have all individual mechanical controls with no remote possible. My recommendation for any TV setup would be a passive setup with a proper receiver, but if space/budget is an issue something like the Vanatoo T zero's or the Kanto Yu's, Fluance Ai40's or even many of the Edifiers are much better than the LSR305's because they have a remote, front mounted controls, have bluetooth, have an internal DAC, have common power and a bunch of other features you'd want in a system based around a TV even if you do have variable RCA outs from the TV. Just remember that nearly all these all in one speakers with built in internal amps will have some level of hiss, it's just a matter of if that level bothers you. If it does, make sure you can easily turn it off when not in use and that goes for passive or active speakers.

So sorry! If you're interested in one alternative I came up with last year, here's what I did:

1. I bought "power strips" (surge protectors), kind of like these: http://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-6-Outlet-Surge-Protector-2-Pack/dp/B00TP1BWMK/ref=lp_10967801_1_4?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1452620174&sr=1-4. However, I got mine at Home Depot for cheaper than those. I forget how much, but maybe around $5?
   
   
2. Then I bought cheap plugs that hold light bulbs, that plug directly into the outlet, like these: http://www.homedepot.com/p/Leviton-White-Outlet-to-Socket-Light-Plug-R52-00061-00W/100170446
   
   
3. Then the cheapest superbright daylight bulbs I could find.
   
   It was a little hard to make the power strip not "roll over," so we cut out a square of cardboard and ziptied the power strip in place to keep the light bulbs facing up!
   
   Based on teh reading I did, I discovered that we all have a wide variability in terms of how much bright light we need, and how long we need to be exposed. If you're lucky, you may be on the low end.
   
   What I read is that SAD lamps usually need to be AT LEAST 2500 lux.
   
   I'm not sure if I did this correctly or not, but after playing with a calculator like this one: http://www.rapidtables.com/calc/light/lumen-to-lux-calculator.htm, I decided that if I sat REALLY CLOSE to the bulbs, about 10 of those 1600 lumens bulbs might be good enough!
   
   Some people only have to do it for I want to think about 15 minutes in the morning.
   
   You can also google "diy light box" or "build your own light box" (or substitute sad lamp for light box) and get some other great ideas for doing it affordably!
   
   EDIT: I neglected to say this, but our need for these things goes away in the summer when it's nice and bright outside. If you happen to be somewhere where it is already bright outside, you might just need to go outside!

How about a power strip with built-in overload protection?
Something like this with built-in 15Amp circuit breaker (overload protection) and GFCI (ground/short protection). I think a GFCI is a good idea in van 120v systems since we can't properly ground our inverters.
(And here's the specs for that specific power strip)

I don't see any problems with using an induction cooktop if you can support. I've seen multiple people use them with good results.

Also, this is a really clean mockup! What did you use to make it?


EDIT: I'd also like to point out that there's a difference between surge protected power strips and overload protected power strips. They don't all have both. Also if you wanted, you could get a regular overload protected power strip and use a standalone GFCI adapter.

You probably want to get one large power strip rather than two, I reccommend APC brand, which you can get on Amazon.

Since your desk looks wooden you might need to flip it over and install a metal bar or two on the underside so that you can velcro or ziptie everything there. What I did was I actually mounted the powerstrip onto the wall behind the monitors so that it was hidden there, but easy access.

As for the colored lamps (all very cool, btw) you can make any lamp cordless so long as you have a soldering iron (pretty simple to operate and pretty affordable as well).

Hope this helps you out!

Hi i would like to know if this is worth it https://www.amazon.ca/APC-8-Oultet-Protector-SurgeArrest-P8U2/dp/B017VXT1E4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1542745407&sr=8-1&keywords=P8U2 recently put a lot of money into my pc and im wondering if it's worth protecting my investment with such a device, feel free to recommend another model, thanks in advance :)

Pay attention to your heaters! According to my Amazon purchase history, I purchased this one 2.5 years ago. Not a bad run, I think. Pretty sure it got knocked into the glass a couple times, too.

Edit: Link to Pro Heater by Aqueon

Edit edit: Thank you for everyone's awesome comments and suggestions! You guys schooled me on how to avoid this in the future! After some research, I'm going to contact Aqueon to see if I can get the heater replaced, and purchase this GFCI safety power strip. Will also check out a thermostat controller.

Edit edit edit: Thank you, /u/carlthecarrot, there is a warranty on the heater. I sent Aqueon and email, and all they needed was a receipt and a photo. They are already shipping me a new one.

Not sure this is close enough to what you are looking for, but in my office i have a unit like this on my desk. One button controls desk lighting, next button controls monitors, next button controls the surge suppressor mounted on the side of my desk, next button controls my soldering iron, last button controls the bench power supply i built. Using the master button to turn everything off is a great way to make sure i don't accidentally leave my soldering iron on when i am done for the day.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0000512E1/ref=sspa_mw_detail_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I suppose you could do that, but it's definitely not ideal. You'd be essentially drawing power for up to 10 devices off of one outlet if you plug the 10 switch PDU into one of the outlets of the power conditioner. I assume it would probably be ok since both devices are rated at 15A, but I can't find any information on what one individual outlet on a power conditioner/strip is rated for.

If you're absolutely dead set on getting the 10 switch PDU and you still want a minimum level of filtering and surge protection, I would probably get something like this Furman power strip and plug the PDU into it. It still offers a standard level of EMI/RFI filtering and standard level surge protection and it's only $34. Plus, it has a built in circuit breaker so it would shut off in the event that anything did get overloaded. Along the same vein, this one has slightly better filtering and better surge protection for $43 and this one is the top-of-the-line one for both filtering and surge protection for $90. I would go with one of those if you want the filtering. (probably the $43 one if it were me)

Alternatively, you could forego the filtering and just get one of these for $10. That would at least give you the surge protection. The difference being, without the filtering you might notice a hum in the speakers or pick up radio stations in your equipment, etc. The filtering just lowers your noise floor to some extent and helps keep unwanted interference out. If you never use a microphone or electric guitar/amplifier you might not need it (except for the speakers). I would say surge protection is a must though.

Edit: I just found this two-outlet surge protector that has almost double the joules rating for surge protection as the $10 one-outlet surge protector I mentioned earlier and it offers EMI/RFI filtering (probably not as good of filtering as the Furman ones, but it still has some). That would probably be a good choice also.

Sorry for the wall of text, there are just so many options!

The i5-7600 is a great cpu for gaming and normal work. If you aren't rendering/encoding (or got an i7 at a steal) then there isn't really a point for it.

As far the lightning hit I'd recommend this protector or something similar to protect your computer and other tech :)

^ Never had an issue yet with that protector and I have had many, many, many lightning hits by my place in FL

I actually had everything plugged into one of the Tripp-Lite Isobar Surge Suppressors, so perhaps I should take my claim up through them. I've read that those types of surge suppressors aren't really that effective, but it looks like they have a lifetime warranty, so it might be worth checking out.

I agree with your rational regarding upgrading my MB. I'll see if I can't find a test bench somewhere to swap in my hardware and make sure everything is working as expected.

What problem are you trying to solve?

You can share multiple consoles on one tv input with a switcher -- like an hdmi switcher if that's how they connect.

In terms of power, maybe look for under monitor power centers. It's been years but the old ones had bright lighted switches. Might find one for free or cheap at a goodwill.

https://www.amazon.com/Tripp-Lite-Under-Monitor-Protector-MT-6PLUS/dp/B0000512E1

It's a good start.

A few tips:

• Let the top of your bench overhang about 1" past the front and ends of the support framing. It makes it much easier to clamp things onto your bench when there's an overhang.
  
• If you're planning to install a vise (very useful) plan the support members accordingly to accommodate the bolt pattern.
  
• Add more electrical outlets by either re-wiring the wall or buying one of those giant workshop powerbars (Example) and screwing it to the bench.
  
• Depending on your garage storage, hang a sheet of pegboard above the bench to hang your tools.
  
• Consider the height of the tools or storage bins you might store under the bench. Set the cross-brace height to accommodate those things so they'll slide underneath.

My wife and I are currently on a RTW trip for 1 year. She has a 38L pack and mine is 42L (Gregory z40). We aren't camping, but I couldn't definitely fit a sleeping bag in my pack if I wanted to (and I could strap a sleeping pad on the side).

For charging, get a set of adapters (you'll probably only need one or two) and get a power strip. This one has been awesome for us: http://www.amazon.com/Simran-SM-60-110V-250V-Universal-Protection/dp/B003UHYDYO/ref=pd_sim_e_3 - Check your devices, both they should already be friendly with european voltage, so you WON'T need a converter.

It's unfortunate, but true. Although theoretically, I shouldn't have a problem with the communication stuff, I know mine definitely does NOT do that. I'm using it just fine with this $12 charger off amazon (attached to this because I don't trust it that much.)

If you look at what /u/bradn said, do you think one of those supplies off ebay would work?

Good on you for taking such good care of your mom.

I have this Wi-Fi enabled powerbar, which lets you control the outlets via a web interface or a Windows/Mac app.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00CXWS848/ref=pd_aw_sims_3?pi=SL500_SS115&simLd=1

I used two strings of those here, and they work like a dream. There are a bunch of vendors on Amazon selling those, and just a warning that some of them (like the ones I got) come with a usb plug instead of a wall plug. I used an old Apple wall adapter I had, but the lights fried it. If you you have the same experience, I would recommend a wall adapter (like this ).

And thank you!

Just letting you know, I decided to buy new and am looking at these 2. Both seem to be rated great and I checked fakespot and others and they both seem to be legit in terms of reviews.

​

I found most cheap ones have 3 USB ports but 3A total output..

​

https://www.amazon.com/Separate-Control-iClever-BoostStrip-Charging/dp/B01LS5R6OS/ref=sr_1_47?s=electronics&rps=1&ie=UTF8&qid=1536890421&sr=1-47&refinements=p_72%3A1248879011%2Cp_85%3A2470955011%2Cp_36%3A1253503011

​

https://www.amazon.com/TROND-2-Outlet-Protector-Efficiency-Nightstand/dp/B07B4786FM/ref=sr_1_75?s=electronics&rps=1&ie=UTF8&qid=1536890628&sr=1-75&refinements=p_72%3A1248879011%2Cp_85%3A2470955011%2Cp_36%3A1253503011&th=1

​

Thanks for the info!

Smart power strip seems useful man, i added to the basket and will search it at the home, thanks. This is it right? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076VRH9WP/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_CCHIDbE20TXZYA

Seems a bit pricey. Try this one or better yet, the best of both worlds

Very cool, hadn't been aware of that information, so thank you for spelling it out for me.

If I understand correctly, I want something that is going to be able to handle voltage in the range from 100-240V? That covers me globally? And that is not always the case with every device?

If I have that right, then would something like this be adequate? It claims to have the 100-240V range. So then all I need is the adapter brick?

Or is that still off/overkill?

Awesome!
Thank you!

I'm gonna install this. HARD.

BTW it's much cheaper on Amazon

Here is my item.

Thanks for the contest!

Yeah, Mr. White! Yeah, science!

My girlfriend told me that at the end of the day she will buy everything in my amazon cart up to 300 dollars...

But I didn't really have anything I needed or even wanted all that bad.. Took me all day to find stuff lol.

So I got

Corsair Hydro Series H100i v2 $97

JD Fenix Limited Edition Xbox One Wireless Controller $55

Microsoft Xbox Wireless Adapter for Windows $21

Xbox One Play and Charge Kit $24

SanDisk 128GB Flash Drive $32

APC 11-Outlet Surge Protector $35

APC 8-Outlet Surge Protector $25

10 Nylon Lanyards for Small Electronic Devices $4

Still have 8 dollars left over haha.

I don't know about all that living as long as you but to lengthen the life of your CRT:

• Lower the contrast, if it's too high. That right there is tied to voltage and to how much phosphor activation you intend to "use".
  
  
• Keep it stored and also running in a nominal environment of room temperature 68-72ºF (20ºC) with the lowest humidity you can.
  
  
• Don't bring it in from the cold into a warm place or high humidity and then turn it on quickly. That accumulated moisture from either place will damage something or at least cause weird issues.
  
  
• Keep the screen face itself out of direct sunlight. Yes it does affect the phosphors.
  
  
• Keep the CRT itself out direct sunlight. Yes sunlight may get through vents and overtime can degrade things. Also unnecessary heat added if you have it running.
  
  
• I keep my CRT unplugged when I am done. Quality of power filtering, nature, and power companies sucking ass makes it a worthwhile thing to do.
  
  
• You still want to keep it plugged in huh? Get a Tripp-Lite Isobar or better. Don't daisy chain strips also be wary of cheap crap.
  
  
• If you are going to store it for a while, make sure to power it up every 2 months. Caps don't like sitting with stored energy as it shortens their life, especially the ones near the power section and the deflection circuit that get the most workout.
  
  
• Reminds me if your CRT is worth it, get the boards recapped and do a safe static-free dust removal a la can of compressed air. That will markedly extend the life of the whole CRT assembly.
  
  But really, otherwise, the less time a tube is on, the longer it will last.

I'd suggest looking into the Belkin proectors.

https://www.amazon.ca/Belkin-Outlet-Protector-Telephone-Protection/dp/B000HPV3RW/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1478094896&sr=8-4&keywords=surge+protector

Lifetime warranty beats out the ones you listed and is half the cost. The joule rating on any of these should be plenty. I can't really say how much anyone needs, more is better. I think the most important thing is the warranty. As long as the surge protector is being used properly then Belkin should honor any warranty claims.

Also, if you have your own home/renters insurance, this sort of thing should be covered even if Belkin doesn't honor a warranty claim.

Back in the day my aunt and uncle had something like this... https://www.amazon.com/Tripp-Lite-Under-Monitor-Protector-MT-6PLUS/dp/B0000512E1
Only it was like 20 years ago so it looked like a piece of 90s computer hardware.

Put the second monitor on a lazy Susan on the edge of his desk so he can rotate the screen and watch Netflix in bed on his computer. Should only cost $2 and vastly increases quality of life :D

Other things:

-- Ties for wire management - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001E1Y5O6/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_jqgbub0823QYK

-- Rotating Power strip and duct tape to tape that shit to the underside of the desk (beer will be spilled at some point) - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000JEACFK/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_Xxgbub0E3RY3J

-- Computer lock and cable to stop pesky thieves

-- LEDs that are daisy-chained and can be plugged into a USB

-- A USB hub for all his gadgets

-- Wireless bluetooth speaker (many uses outside of his normal computing)

-- Microsoft ergonomic keyboard 4000 - most comfortable keyboard ever - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004SUIM4E/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_Nygbub1ZK53VH

-- Bluetooth touch mouse - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0093H4VBU/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_9wgbub1542WT5

-- Exercise ball chair (also, with that weight limit... Lots of fun can be had doing.. Activities.. Of all sorts... Ahem..) - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DG9KIE0/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_wrgbub07AKZHX

-- Some sweet headphones - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008XEYT48/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_Gugbub07RHAXS

-- A handheld wireless keyboard/mouse (not what you think, this is badass. I have one. He can use it for presentations and stuff too) - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003UE52ME/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_Kvgbub004D1EF

-- Go to a pawn shop and get a third computer monitor (make sure his gfx card can handle it)

-- USB can cooler or 'hot plate' that keeps either your can of beer cool or your coffee warm

Anything with a link I own and definitely recommend.

I have a power strip with 8 outlets and 7 individual switches. The other one outlet is a control outlet that can control all the rest 6 outlets when you set the 6 outlets to "switched" mode. You can also charge USB devices as well.
https://www.amazon.com/BESTEK-8-Outlet-Individual-Protector-Extension/dp/B01DP9M3DO
Of course, you can also find one with both controlled outlets and normal outlets. Hope it can help you.

Something like this? ideally I don't wanna mess with the outlet, since it isn't even technically mine.

Mine is this one:
http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B006HFMDH0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
5 of the 8 slots turn off with the computer. Of the 2 that don't, one has my external hdd in it (which turns on/off with the mac) and the other is the lamp so it works pretty well - it's expensive but I'd recommend it.

Might I suggest adding a surge protector inside your mirror to protect your Pi and Monitor from basic surges? Something like this:

http://amzn.com/B00006B81E

Or do the splitting with a 2 way box like this (It also will take more of a hit than the previous one):

http://amzn.com/B00006B81D


I notice your weather was Philly (South Jersey here!) so thunderstorms may not be the biggest concern, but I think it would be worth adding.

Have ordered one of these -http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B006HFMDH0?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00

Will see if it's any good. :)

Happy with Ubiquiti mPower. 3 switched outlets (there's an 8-port as well, but at 15A, you're likely only able to run 2 PSUs off 1 strip). Power usage reporting as well.

https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-mPower-3-port-Power-Wifi/dp/B00CXWS848

> "clean up" the line and remove the noise. If you look around you also might be able to find a power strip that does this without the battery cost

Here are a couple of power line conditioners, without battery backup, that would help:

• APC ,
  
  
• Tripp Lite

Something like this would work, although I'd be shocked if you can't find that, and for cheaper, in Hong Kong. Just ask for North American plug adapters.

Check the adapters for your electronics (110–220 V?), but you probably won't need a voltage converter; that adapter is all you'd need. If you want to plug them in in the same place, you can bring a power strip. Something like this would work without needing an adapter for the wall.

The short list:

-a decent pair of ear plugs if you like to sleep in more than 1 hour increments bc Vietnam has to be in the top 5 for noise pollution,

-bring a surge protector or buy a 220v surge protector there ~$2.50 USD in the markets bc electricity in vietnam is sketchy,

-spare phone charger & cable bc electricity in vietnam is sketchy, unlock your smart phone before you go,

-forget the shoes and socks/dead weight, you'll be getting very wet more often than not, wear some throw aways on the flight and buy flip flops ~$2 usd when you get there bc tevas won't last

-long sleeve UV shirt bc you don't know hot until you've been in vietnam and sunscreen is useless

-I'd bring my own helmet bc I trust any [DOT rating](http://westwards.typepad.com/photos/vietnam_201302/helmets.html) more than the novelty baseball helmets sold as protection there. You might opt for a face shield also if you plan on riding in the rain,

-change money in the jewelry shops, the difference bt one versus the other is usually less than a buck,

-travel with soap and TP/wipes bc it's not readily available in most businesses

There's more but this is what I can think off the top of my head. Are you male or female? Are you backpacking or on a tour?

I always charge my batteries with a Motorola Cell Phone adpater and a surge protector like this one. That should help with the power issues.

https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-mPower-3-port-Power-Wifi/dp/B00CXWS848

Buy this, set up on your home network, now you can turn your PSU on and off from your phone, measure power usage, and control other things. They work great

1. Extension Cords
   
   
2. First Aid Kit
   
   
3. Hand Towels
   
   
4. Can Opener and Bottle Opener
   
   These are things that are a must in our house lol. Stuff you might not think of! :D

This is the surge protector I bought. It has a lifetime warranty and looks like it protects $200,000 of attached electronics.

Should absolutely ok people all around work don't even know this thing exist and their pc are still working.

There is also smaller solution you will just plug in socket and then plug anything in to it.
https://www.amazon.com/Huntkey-2-Outlet-Cradle-Charging-SMD407/dp/B01ALHQQU4/ref=mp_s_a_1_50_sspa?keywords=power+surge+protector+socket&qid=1561986768&s=gateway&sr=8-50-spons&psc=1

So you're suggesting I replace my eight outlet surge protector with eight 1' long extensions? Okay smart guy, just where am I going to plug those eight extensions into?

For the eight extensions alone it'd cost $22 and you'd still have to get a surge protector to go with them. Then compare that to the $20.88 it'd cost to just get the Belkin. Then there's the clutter issue because of all the extra cables you'd be adding to the mix. The choice is pretty damn obvious.

Extensions don't replace a surge protector/power strip. They're good for those one-off scenarios where you have a single bulky adapter you need to plug in to a pre-existing setup, but they're not a valid alternative in a new setup.

I've unplugged it for now— waiting to see if I should just plug it back in or wait to get an appropriate strip. I wasn't able to find an FCC ID but this is the information I found on the back of these:

Verizon: Max Load: AC125V 15A 60Hz Model:C2401 E257463 P/N ASBPB642BK

Belkin: "Surge Protective Type 3" Max Load: 15A 125-60Hz 1875w VPR: L-N 500V. L-G 500V

Also took what you said and am researching for some other strips, not sure if this one is overkill? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000HPV3RW/ref=twister_B0774PW9R4?_encoding=UTF8&th=1

Wish Verizon would tell me if the one they gave me is just their property or if there's some reasoning behind it but those wait times.

I had the same problem. On one of my televisions I was able to plug my Roku stick into a powered USB. When the TV shuts off, so does the Roku. My other, older TV doesn't have the powered USB. I bought this power strip that has a option to turn off certain devices if the master outlet isn't drawing power. Works great.

what i did: get a 3 or 4 ft power strip, like so: http://www.amazon.com/Prime-Wire-Cable-PB800012-12-Outlet/dp/B0027D3LNG

Screw into the rear underside of the desk, or in your desk's case, maybe onto the back near the top.

That would keep all your power cables up off the ground. Liberal application of velcro straps could remedy the rest.

When I was first trying to get it to work, Radioshack was trying to get me to pick up two battery packs which held 4 AA's each. I didn't want to deal with that so I found a charger online and hardwired it into the LEDs with a small switch.
Here's the charger I used

http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KZ2ZQE8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1I mounted a

I also picked up a heavy duty mountable surge protector that I mounted on the back so I would have a convenient place to plug in the fan, freezer and LEDs. This is what I picked up for that one.

http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0000513O4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This BIGGEST thing to remember is to make sure the volts and amps are enough in the plug in you are using. My LEDS need 12v and 2 amps. As far as I know, it's ok to have more amps than you need, but don't go over on volts

You're welcome even more

If your aim is just to power on/off these devices, you could use a master slave power strip, something like this: https://www.amazon.com/BESTEK-Protector-Extention-Energy-Saving-Individual/dp/B01DP9M3DO/ref=sr_1_10?keywords=master+slave&qid=1568905158&s=electronics&sr=1-10

https://www.amazon.com/APC-11-Outlet-Protector-SurgeArrest-P11U2/dp/B017VXU6GG/ref=sr_1_8?keywords=surge+protector&qid=1566081991&s=gateway&sr=8-8
do you know if they'll let me bring this?


Also, do you know if they allow me to just bring two regular surge protectors? (I know these are fine to bring, i just dont know about the one i linked.)
I know you can't plug one into the other, but can I plug two separate ones on the wall outlet since there's two outlets?

Not far into the comments section, I found this link:

http://www.amazon.com/Belkin-Pivot-Outlets-Telephone-Protection/dp/B000JEACFK/ref=sr_1_14?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1293128873&sr=1-14

Seems he could have saved some time in Photoshop with a quick Google search.

I use a ready-made product, but yeah I've seen some people go DIY with it, this is what I got:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B006HFMDH0/

5". The surge protector in that basket is this one https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000HPV3RW and it fits comfortably. This is the cable basket https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07GLZZ2RZ

Is that different from this power strip below in amazon?

https://www.amazon.com/Opentron-OT4126-Metal-Protector-Outlet/dp/B00O8NVPBI/ref=sr_1_20?ie=UTF8&qid=1480988313&sr=8-20&keywords=power+strip

https://www.amazon.com/Prime-Wire-Cable-PB800012-12-Outlet/dp/B0027D3LNG/ref=sr_1_18?ie=UTF8&qid=1480988313&sr=8-18&keywords=power+strip


https://www.amazon.com/Surge-Protector-Power-Strip-Workbench/dp/B01JDQPAB0/ref=sr_1_21?ie=UTF8&qid=1480987836&sr=8-21&keywords=power+strip

Pair any old ballast up with an Ubiquiti mFi device like this one

It's not an installed receptacle. It's one of those plug into wall socket with extra USB power add on plates, it just looks like a normal socket... https://www.amazon.com/Huntkey-2-Outlet-Cradle-Charging-SMD407/dp/B01ALHQQU4/ref=mp_s_a_1_52?adgrpid=55857320637&gclid=Cj0KCQiAno_uBRC1ARIsAB496IVpw-3Yp7w0nmagv_ZCE_WNWp52cEWNWMeHHb4qk8cVvK4RnfIgBsQaAhV7EALw_wcB&hvadid=274719587477&hvdev=m&hvlocphy=9031961&hvnetw=g&hvpos=1t1&hvqmt=e&hvrand=1305057526069853486&hvtargid=kwd-298397964177&hydadcr=25251_9902062&keywords=usb+wall+sockets&qid=1573163424&sr=8-52

I've not seen a built on with GFCI, unless the GFCI is done via a circuit breaker rather than built into the outlet.

But I would imagine you could use a plug in outlet adapter. Something like this or this

It says protected right on the product - so it must be good!


(But seriously - at least get an APC Surgearrest)

The only real source is opening these up and knowing what you're looking at, which is the main reason companies take advantage of the "surge protector" marketing. It has no standards, so anyone can say that for anything. Here is an example of APC marketing a piece of plastic with a capacitors and wiring as a "surge protector" when it protects from very little. https://www.amazon.com/APC-11-Outlet-Protector-SurgeArrest-P11U2/dp/B017VXU6GG/ref=sr_1_10?keywords=apc&qid=1559167869&s=gateway&sr=8-10

​

The price is the tell for general consumers, and lack of certain specifications is the tell for enthusiasts and electrical engineers.

​

Lastly, that $250k insurance on that $30 piece is laughable, they will give you the runaround until you give up. There's no way they would ever pay that much for something connected to a $30 power strip.

> The hotel rooms have far fewer outlets than US rooms, so a combination of an adapter and a surge protector with multiple outlets might be necessary if you have a few electronics or need to share a small space with several people and their devices. (And if you need a converter in addition to an adapter, keep that in mind as well.)

Example: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003UHYDYO/

Use a prong adapter to fit the NEMA 5-15P plug into the local wall receptacle. The universal outlets on the strip means you're still able to use whatever was filling the receptable beforehand (or any emergency local purchases, for that matter).

I use something like this

https://www.amazon.com/BESTTEN-12-Outlet-Wide-Spaced-Protector-Extension/dp/B01CCX0LJ2

(Not this exact one, but one very similar. Mine has the outlets rotated 90 degrees.).

Thank you again! The power strip is a: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017VXU6GG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_.3PiDb6Z8HKXJ

Not super cheap, but not a proper UPS either.

I'll read through the article in depth and give it a shot.

I got a Belkin a few years ago, but after more research it seemed that "Experts" state that if you are buying this for lightning protection then it's pretty much worthless. The lightning has too much energy (1 billion to 10 billion Joules) for a simple surge protector (few thousand Joules) to stop it or to redirect it. The only true protection is for your structure to be properly grounded, so the lightning strike has a low impedance path to ground and not into your electrical appliances or yourself. I still use a surge protector out of habit, but it's not a magic protection box that I first thought it to be.
https://www.newegg.com/p/N82E16812107193
https://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B000HPV3RW/ref=dp_olp_0?ie=UTF8&condition=all

https://arstechnica.com/civis/viewtopic.php?p=12036266&sid=28f6be70d6377c67732b75b90c78495e#p12036266

https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-mPower-3-port-Power-Wifi/dp/B00CXWS848/

APC 7901

http://www.ebay.com/itm/APC-AP7901-16A-100-120-1U-8-Outlet-Switched-Rack-PDU-Strip-/112257616741?hash=item1a23134b65:g:UiYAAOSwA3dYZCKN

any other number of networked PDU's.

No, get something like one of these ...

https://www.amazon.com/APC-SurgeArrest-Notebook-Pro-Suppressor/dp/B00066ISFM

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00006B81E

https://www.amazon.com/CyberPower-TRVL918-Protector-3-Outlets-Charging/dp/B003VTXY8M

Yup, which is why the one sold at amazon that has been out on the market longer than this art student has had a computer is clearly fake.

http://www.amazon.com/Belkin-Pivot-Outlets-Telephone-Protection/dp/B000JEACFK/ref=sr_1_14?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1293128873&sr=1-14

Ill try it out thanks. It makes A little sense. And appearantly they're actually called surge protectors. Been calling then multitaps my entire life :p
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0000AI0N1/ref=s9_top_hm_b3C6a_g23_i3

I'm using this: APC 11-Outlet Surge Protector Power Strip with USB Charging Ports, 2880 Joules, SurgeArrest Home/Office (P11U2) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017VXU6GG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_ni6jDbYY7Z6QW

I think they are still just surge protectors. Are you thinking of something like...

http://www.amazon.com/Tripp-Lite-MT-6PLUS-Monitor-Protector/dp/B0000512E1/ref=pd_rhf_pe_s_cp_3_D6VY?ie=UTF8&refRID=0395SQKF2S1YK2HM7BDC

I use one of these https://www.amazon.com/APC-8-Outlet-Protector-SurgeArrest-P8U2/dp/B017VXT1E4

Also has 2 USB chargers so that's nice

I got two of these for under 40$ combined at Frys.

https://www.amazon.com/APC-11-Outlet-Protector-SurgeArrest-P11U2/dp/B017VXU6GG/

Breh https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017VXU6GG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_v0bPzbBXZS4SB

I've decided to use this along with 2 of these

I also have an electrician coming to see about adding another wall outlet.

USB Stereo Sound Adapter

Wood Box

Chef Craft Paring Knives

Eyeglass Repair Kit

Tripp Lite 1 Outlet Portable

Scissor

Scissor

But i would wait till black friday.

You can use one of these for the washing machine 115V.

And as others have said, the 240 for the dryer should go in the breaker box. If you have spare breaker positions, you can get one that simply plugs in, and 1 wire to attach to ground.

Yup, i have a few old game systems and they all have big "wall wart" plugs. So you get one of these!!

Belkin 8-Outlet Pivot-Plug Power Strip Surge Protector with 6-Foot Power Cord and Telephone Protection, 1800 Joules (BP108200-06) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000JEACFK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_UYx7AbXDJ4H5Y

Or any other brands equivalent.

I use [this] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00006B81E/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1) for my laptop all the time.

3-outlet + 4-usb that i travel with.

6-outlet + 4-usb that i use around the house

Here is what I got for my charging station:

1. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LS5R6OS/
   
   
2. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0719DLVKS/

Go for this if you don't want the surge strip deal and just one outlet

I'd suggest an APC battery backup as a surge suppressor. In my experience the Cyberpower battery backups are not great.

The thing to keep in mind is that the VA rating is not how many watts the battery backup can supply. I have a 1300VA unit for my desktop on my monitor and it can supply a max of ~800 watts. If you put your system specs into PCPartPicker you can get a rough idea of what you will need.

If you want to spend less and don't have a lot of power fluctuations /brown outs in your area you could get this APC surge protector.

This APC one is very light, so velcro or command strips would work. I still put 2 screws into the desk.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B017VXT1E4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Ferrite core is a good place to start. Also if you can find a decent price on a Tripp-Lite Isobar power strip, these have EMI filters in 'em. Put one between the router and the wall. Put another between the HMW and the wall. And of course, put the HMW and the router on separate outlets, separate circuits if possible.

However, it might not actually be the wireless suffering here. I mean, 20 feet is a pretty short hop, it should make that even with a ton of interference. It might be the cable or DSL that serves the modem -- that circuit runs miles back to the provider, and might have a narrower signal margin. In that case, an Isobar between the HMW and the wall will definitely help, and to go beyond that, you'll want to talk to someone who has a clue about radio and have 'em check out your cable or DSL line.

(What they're looking for in cable: Bad or broken shield, loose connectors, ground loop between modem and entry grounding/bonding point. What they're looking for in DSL: Pair untwist at the demarc or jack, untwisted "b-wire" serving the modem, untwisted satin cord between the jack and modem itself, no splitter/filter between the DSL leg and the POTS leg.)

Can this onekeep parts from getting fried, if lightning strikes?

I see your problem, you need one with a black cord.

Stop as in freeze or stop as in reset? If it reset (and here we enter the realm of speculation) then it may be that OctoPi reset itself (brown out detection?) and as it was coming back to life it triggered the bootloader on the Anet to reset the main processor.

Anyway, something like this may be affordable. Won't supply power like an UPS but can help in some situations.

Be aware that surge suppressors that use MOVs can fail catastrophically. See here among others.

Would this do? (Note: am Canadian, must use Canadian Amazon lest it take longer than the rise and fall of nations to arrive and customs comes to my house to beat me with sticks) I have no idea how to calculate from length and gauge provided there. The Hanvex cables from Amazon.com are not available on the .ca site unfortunately. The Belkan surge protector there is though.

>-Will the timer handle two plugs pulling a total of 300w through it?
>-Will this, along with a fan and a pump, through an extension cord draw too much from an outlet (120v)?
>-Am I going to have problems with amps, volts, watts, heat, or grounding?

You plug them into a 120Vac wall outlet (extension cord), both outputs are switched on/off together, and can deliver 120Vac 15A (1800W) total for your lights, or radio/coffee-maker at 06:00.
You need two of those, one for each 'colour' power supply (19:00-24:00 and 00:00-07:00).
The fan and pump, like the LEDs, are low(-ish) power, you can connect those via an extension cord without problems, and when done properly there is no problem with grounding.

>What is the purpose of the voltage regulators (above the obvious) and do they go before or after the power supply?

The purpose of those boost converters is to increase the voltage, like when you need 18Vdc for your laptop and only have 12V from your car battery available, you don't need them in your setup, the LEDs require 12Vdc, those power supplies already deliver that.

Power supply:
With three strings at 36W each, that 100W power supply is too small for comfort, you need two of the 200W types (what you call " 150w transformers", they already give 12Vdc).

A possible way of wiring everything:
From an existing outlet you use an extension cord that has a power strip at the end, in which you plug the two timers.
There you have the option to plug the fan/pump into 24hr/day, 19:00-24:00, or 00:00-07:00.

>How likely am I to kill myself putting this all together?

It's a real possibility, maybe not during assembly (connect the wires before you plug them in), but the power supplies do not have a decent cover on the terminal strips, you could accidentally touch them during normal use.

>What effect will having these turn on and off every day do to their longevity/safety?

Not much, if any.

>Can I run a voltage regulator lower than the voltage it is made for? What about the power supply or LEDs (under watt/volt/amp)?

Adjusting the voltage to change the LED intensity does work, sort of, down is maybe no problem (depends on the 'adjust' range of the power supply), going up a bit too far will release the magic LED smoke.

Another option is using a micro controller like an Arduino with 'driver shields', you only need one 12V-200W power supply (no timers) and can program whatever you like, timing, intensity, fan, pump, whatever (see r/arduino).

fridge is rated at .85 amps at 115 volts, and this is the surge protector. My pc is actually just running old graphics cards that suck up a lot of power plus an overclocked cpu. i just launched a game and i was using 600 watts and i was only at 70% gpu usage and 60% cpu usage.

​

exactly what i have connected to the strip is my speakers 208mA, my dac and amp at 500mA, 8 watts; and 1500mA, 21 watts respectively, the fridge mentioned above, a phone charger (max 5V, 2 Amps), very small ethernet splitter with no label on it, and a 12 volt 3 amp usb hub. i was mistaken earlier, my monitors are actually connected to my ups not the strip. and at full load with all my monitors on, pc running at full speed, it will pull anywhere from 600 to 700 watts with occasionally around 850 if i also have my 3d printer connected to it.

No, but you can get a "smart" surge protector. You plug the TV into the "main" or "master" slot, then plug the Roku into one of the "controlled" slots. Then, when you turn off the TV, it will cut power to the Roku a second or so later.

The disadvantage is that the Roku will have to boot up again when you next use it, so it's not as fast as leaving it on.

Edit: I just looked online and I'm seeing a lot of new surge protectors and power strips being called "smart" because they have wifi or voice assistant compatibility; that's not what you want for this. The important feature for you is the "master" and "controlled" outlets.

I don't have experience with these specific models, but these list the features:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01D3VPJIA
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002K8S2J6
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DP9M3DO
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002XDQAC4

I actually have all Ubiquiti hardware connected to an APC Surge Protector. The CloudKey G1 is being powered by Ubiquiti US-8-60W switch. No battery backups. I've experienced power outages this past winter, but no database corruption to my knowledge. I've never had to rebuild the controller, database, etc. Just been having the weird "missing microSD card" error completely randomly.