Reddit mentions: The best powersports handlebars & parts
We found 232 Reddit comments discussing the best powersports handlebars & parts. We ran sentiment analysis on each of these comments to determine how redditors feel about different products. We found 109 products and ranked them based on the amount of positive reactions they received. Here are the top 20.
1. TALON 998R Grips Sheet (Rubber-Black, 5 x 7-Inch)
- TALON Grips are a US patented single piece wrap around adhesive grip
- Create a functional and positive interface between the operator and the firearm
- Available in rubber or granulate texture
- Only 0.5mm in thickness they create no perceptible increase in grip thickness
- Custom designed and manufactured for this specific firearm for an OEM quality fit and finish
- Easy to install within minutes
Features:
Specs:
Color | Black |
Height | 3.99999999592 Inches |
Length | 5.99999999388 Inches |
Weight | 0.1 Pounds |
Width | 8.99999999082 Inches |
2. Canyon Dancer 32505 Black Bar-Harness II for 32" Handlebars
- For use with handlebars up to 32 inches wide
- New design features glass filled injection molded polycarbonate cups with steel lay-in that replaces the old handlebar cuff and new webbing using heavier threads with more stitches for greater strength
- Cups eliminate possible damage to soft grips and hold the cross straps further out on the bars to clear a wider variety of fairings and prevent damage to switch housings
- Cups are sized to fit the fattest grips in the industry
- Steel D-ring lay-ins provide extra security to prevent losses even after many years of weather and abuse begin to weaken the polycarbonate cup
Features:
Specs:
Color | Black |
Height | 2.25 Inches |
Length | 8 Inches |
Weight | 1 Pounds |
Width | 8 Inches |
Release date | January 2013 |
Size | 32 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
3. RAM Motorcycle Handlebar Clamp Base with M8 Bolts
- Includes rubber ball, M8 x 55 bolt, M8 x 60 bolt, M8 x 65 bolt (1.25 thread pitch)
- Compatible with any motorcycle M8 threaded bolt; ball base allows for connection to any B size RAM double socket arm
- Made of marine-grade aluminum for durability and reliability in the most demanding environments
- Backed by a lifetime warranty
- 1" Rubber Ball "B" Size
Features:
Specs:
Color | Black |
Height | 1 Inches |
Length | 1 Inches |
Weight | 0.2 Pounds |
Width | 1 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
4. Grip Puppy Comfort Grips - The Original and the Best!
Over Grip - Fits over standard gripsSoft, squeezable, and tactile grip that provides greater riding comfortReduces engine vibrations felt through handlebarsMade of a special high tech material that is UV, ozone, and oxidation resistantDesigned to work well with heated grips
Specs:
Color | Black |
Height | 1 Inches |
Length | 6 Inches |
Weight | 0.09038952742 Pounds |
Width | 5 Inches |
Size | Original |
5. Profile Designs Boxer Bar End
- 6061-T6 forged aluminum construction
- Offset clamp design allows for more room on the handlebar
- Color: Matte black
- Weight: 170grams
- Country Of Origin : China
Features:
Specs:
Release date | July 2011 |
6. Yamaha 2C0262400000 Grip Assembly
- New OEM Yamaha Grip Assembly
- OEM Part Number: 2C0-26240-00-00
- Item only fits specific models listed. The picture could be generic.
- Message us with VIN/HULL for fast fitment verification.
Features:
Specs:
Color | Black |
Height | 1.1 inches |
Length | 4.7 inches |
Width | 3 inches |
7. BikeMaster Heated Grips (7/8)
For twist throttle applicationsThis new elegant grip design with revolutionary heating structure delivers heat faster than ever. The new five-level temperature controller allows you to accurately adjust the grip temperature. You no longer need to tolerate uncomfortable temperatures.Elegant, open-end...
Specs:
Color | Black |
Height | 12 Inches |
Length | 6 Inches |
Weight | 1 Pounds |
Width | 3 Inches |
Size | One Size |
8. Grip-Lock – The original and genuine Motorcycle and Scooter Security Lock - Yellow
- Fits 95% of all motorcycles. Twist grip sizes from 27-38mm and Grip-lock is forward facing.
- 18 Years Warranty - Made in New Zealand
- Hardened Steel Rods for Maximum Protection
- Light and Compact yet Robust and Sturdy
- Visible Deterrent - the Clean, Safe Solution
Features:
Specs:
Color | Yellow |
Height | 1.77 Inches |
Length | 5.91 Inches |
Weight | 0.69 Pounds |
Width | 1.97 Inches |
Size | Twist grip sizes from 27-38mm |
Number of items | 1 |
9. Handlebar Fat Bar Risers Mount Adaptor Exchange 7/8" to 1 1/8" ATV Dirt Bike
- Billet
- upgrade to oversize bar
- black anodised
- with bolts
- CNC Machined 6061-T6 aluminum
Features:
Specs:
Color | Black |
Weight | 0.661386786 Pounds |
10. Zeta XC Flasher WHITE Hand Shields (Pair) for Armor Handguards
- XC Protector with a flasher (Removable, orange lens)
- OEM# ZE72-3410
Features:
Specs:
Color | White/Orange |
Height | 2 Inches |
Length | 6 Inches |
Weight | 0.5 Pounds |
Width | 8.8 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
11. Progrip 714BK Black 125mm Dual Sport Gel Grip
- Popular pimple design
- Large diameter for maximum comfort
- Gel rubber absorbs vibration
- Measures 22-25mm inside diameter by 125mm length
Features:
Specs:
Color | Black |
Height | 3 Inches |
Length | 8 Inches |
Weight | 0.4 Pounds |
Width | 6 Inches |
12. Cycra Probend CRM Handguards for 7/8" Handlebar Black
- Revolutionary patent pending design
- Trademark Probend shape
- Replaceable integrated plastic abrasion guard
- Center Reach Mounts provide maximum bite to secure handguards and allows for superior clearance on a wide range of bars
- Made in the USA
Features:
Specs:
Color | Black |
Height | 3.3 Inches |
Length | 30 Inches |
Weight | 3 Pounds |
Width | 3.3 Inches |
13. TALON Grips Material Sheet, 5 x 7-Inch
TALON Grips are a US patented single piece wrap around adhesive grip custom designed for an OEM quality fit and finish on each firearmCreate a functional and positive interface between the operator and the firearmAvailable in rubber or granulate textureAt only 0.5mm in thickness, TALON Grips create ...
14. Senkauto Motorcycle Gloss Black Coffin Cut Hand Guards Customs Handguards for Harley 07 and up Electra Street Road Glide King Baggers Sportster
- Accepts 2 key Fit or Fit2 infant car seats (no adapter needed)
- 2 Standard stroller seats with reclining backrests and independent canopies
- Self-standing fold can be activated with one hand
- Interchangeable child arm bar and cup holders
- 3-Position padded handle and parent tray with 2 cup holders
- Folded Dimensions: 47.75" x 23.5" x 16.75"
Features:
15. Fyxation Bar End Plugs, Black
- Durable alloy bar end plugs
- Includes two expanding elastomers to fit most handlebars
- Work great with drop bars, bullhorn bars, straight bars or any grip with a thinner outside diameter
- Ideal replacement for cheap end plugs that ship with bar tape or open ended track grips
- Work great with drop bars, bullhorn bars, straight bars or any grip with a thinner outside diameter
Features:
Specs:
Color | Black |
Height | 1.57 Inches |
Length | 2.95 Inches |
Weight | 0.12 Pounds |
Width | 2.95 Inches |
Release date | October 2012 |
Number of items | 1 |
16. Round Handguard Cap Mil-Spec A R Standard Retainer OE Replacement
- REDUCES PULL:Tightens around barrel only when dog pulls, encouraging dog to slow pace. USE WITH KINDNESS. DO NOT JERK, YANK OR CORRECT YOUR DOG. VERY IMPORTANT TO PROPERLY FIT. MUST ALIGN BLACK STOPS WITH FRONT LEG TO PREVENT TIGHTENING ON NECK! REDUCES PULL: Gently tightens around barrel only. No tightening around neck. Utilizes a dog's own pressure against leash to encourage dog to slow their pace.
- ESCAPE RESISTANT: USE AS WALKING TOOL ONLY. DO NOT USE TO TIE DOG OUT DUE TO TIGHTENING ASPECT OF HARNESS. IT IS NOT CHEW PROOF. If dog attempts to back out of this harness, leash will tighten like a slip lead. Must be used according to directions.
- ADJUSTS TO ANY SIZE OR BODY TYPE: Align the movable black stops with front leg and it will fit any body perfectly. LENGTH OF LEASH VARIES ACCORDING TO SIZE OF DOG. S/M is 6 ft fro back to handle on a 20-30 lb dog. M/L is 6 ft from back to handle on a 40-50 lb dog.
- SUPERB QUALITY: Handcrafted, hand spliced in the USA.
Features:
17. TALON 998G Grips Sheet (Granulate-Black, 5 x 7-Inch)
- TALON Grips are a US patented single piece wrap around adhesive grip
- Create a functional and positive interface between the operator and the firearm
- Available in rubber or granulate texture
- Only 0.5mm in thickness they create no perceptible increase in grip thickness
- Custom designed and manufactured for this specific firearm for an OEM quality fit and finish
- Easy to install within minutes
Features:
Specs:
Color | Black |
Height | 3.99999999592 Inches |
Length | 5.99999999388 Inches |
Width | 8.99999999082 Inches |
18. Pro Taper Seven Eighths Handlebars - Standard 7/8 (Carmichael) (Black)
The Seven Eighths (SE) Handlebar represents the state of the art in 7/8" handlebar design.Its 2000 series aluminum alloy construction and five millimeter-thick wall design, combined with its cold-forged crossbar and CNC-machined clamps, make it perfect for riders who prefer solid, predictable feedba...
Specs:
Color | Jet Black |
Height | 2 Inches |
Length | 35 Inches |
Weight | 2 Pounds |
Width | 3 Inches |
Size | One Size |
Number of items | 1 |
19. Kawasaki KLR 650 Aluminum 7/8" Handlebar Risers 1.2 inch (30mm)
Fits all Kawasaki KLR650 1990 - 2017For 7/8" handle barsSpacers increase handlebar height by 1.2 inchesMade from billet 6061 T-6 aluminumComplete with strong 12.9 tensile strength Chromoly Steel bolts
20. Zeta Armor Aluminum Handguards (Pair) for 7/8" Handlebars Black
Mounting Bracket included: YesFits on: MotorcycleCompatible Brand: Fits Honda, Fits Yamaha, Fits Kawasaki, Fits Suzuki, Fits KTM, Fits Pitster Pro, Fits Husqvarna, Fits Konker, Fits HusabergColor: BlackMaterial: NA
Specs:
Color | Black |
Weight | 1.984160358 Pounds |
Number of items | 1 |
🎓 Reddit experts on powersports handlebars & parts
The comments and opinions expressed on this page are written exclusively by redditors. To provide you with the most relevant data, we sourced opinions from the most knowledgeable Reddit users based the total number of upvotes and downvotes received across comments on subreddits where powersports handlebars & parts are discussed. For your reference and for the sake of transparency, here are the specialists whose opinions mattered the most in our ranking.
God I hope this formats correctly - I am a neophyte.
Exhaust - http://www.ixilusa.com/ixil-l3xb-black-hyperlow-xl-full-exhaust-yamaha-mt-07-2014-2015/
Super deep and loud sound - videos online don't do it justice, its unbelievably loud when the baffles are out. Had to have the cat cut out of it. Be aware they have a cat in the V section before the end of the pipe.
Removed the snorkel covering the airbox - I was told its basically blocks airflow.
ECU Flash / Dyno by 2wheelDynoWorks - https://2wheeldynoworks.com/shop/ecu-flashing-service/15-17-yamaha-fz07-mail-in-ecu-flashing-service/
Nels himself worked on my bike - super stoked (shout out to Nate too) They have the best customer service.
Active Tune - https://2wheeldynoworks.com/shop/ecu-flashing-service/yamaha-activetune-afr-closed-loop-self-tuning-ecu-kit-2/
Tune as you go
Bike side harness - https://2wheeldynoworks.com/shop/ecu-flashing-service/ftlink-v1-1-6-pin-bike-side-harnesses/
For tuning later
Windscreen - https://www.revzilla.com/motorcycle/puig-touring-naked-new-generation-windscreen-yamaha-mt-07-2018
I got light smoke, I think it goes better with the bike and pushes wind over my shoulders even at 80+ mph
Protection - https://tstindustries.com/Womet-Tech-Total-Crash-Protection-Pack-for-Yamaha-FZ-07-MT-07-2015.html
Basically got everything from this except the bar ends
Bar Ends - https://motostarz.com/collections/mt-07-2018/products/rhinomoto-barends-mirror-mounts-for-yamaha-fz-mt-models
Super easy to replace mirrors etc with these - and they add protection
Throttle tube - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005C59NO2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
90 to 60 degree conversion - its amazing for the price
Dash Screen Protector - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B078SMP4ND/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Mirror stem deletes - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07BN8QGPV/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Current Mirrors - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N6GB7DZ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Mirrors in photo - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003RESHVU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I like the CRG Mirrors but they get bumped and are hard to readjust - the cheap ebay/amazon mirrors work great
Headlight replacement - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01H6NZ5QW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Signal replacement LED bulbs - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XK4PL33/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Super bright replacements for stock bulbs - used the original housings, they plug right in
Running light LED replacements - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JRE38EA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
For inside the headlight housing
Tail Tidy - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01BH5YGOM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Flasher Relay for LEDs - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00RM26LXO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Levers - https://www.ebay.com/itm/CNC-Brake-Clutch-Yamaha-MT-07-FZ-07-2014-2018-Adjustable-Engrave-Long-Lever/123350737715?_trkparms=aid%3D555018%26algo%3DPL.SIM%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20131003132420%26meid%3D17a37c1b2d204ffcba65903d19a97b4a%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D4%26rkt%3D12%26sd%3D122997203335%26itm%3D123350737715&_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851
Passenger peg deletes - https://www.ebay.com/itm/for-YAMAHA-MT07-FZ07-Footrest-Cover-Passenger-Footpeg-Removal-Delete-Kit-2014/253869999740?hash=item3b1bd4c67c:g:3qEAAOSw0JVbm1FQ:rk:1:pf:0
I removed the passenger pegs, needed a bracket to hold the brake fluid reservoir - also cleaned up the pegs
Havent done the brakes yet - going to replace the lines etc with steel braid.
Also want to do a sprocket / chain swap for acceleration
I used a quadlock phone mount for a little bit - but took it off because I was playing with my phone too much.
Find a way to mount a RAM ball to the bike. I like this guy personally.
After that, get something to hold your phone that works with a RAM mount. The X-Grip is super popular, however, I did a lot of research before buying and read loads of reviews from people who lost their phone on the highway, or had the thing twisting and turning every which way, and so on. Many people use it and seem happy with it but it's a big YMMV situation, and it made me shy on that product.
While I can't say for certain if the problems I read about the X-Grip are true, I can tell you that after a legit 60,000 miles with 2 different phones mounted in [THIS] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0088LL7UA?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage) mount, at a combination of city and highway, into potholes and over speed bumps, not once has my phone ever even wiggled. I have the utmost confidence in this thing. The only caveat is that you should use a TPU or hybrid style case because this is just hard plastic, so have something to save you from scratches and so on.
To go along with it you will need one of these for the back of the phone holder. You will also need a RAM arm, I use (and prefer) a 3 inch arm but they make 6 inch and other more complicated contraptions if that doesn't do it for you.
It's not exactly cheap. At the moment, from Amazon, that will cost you about $43 shipped (edit: before tax). However, I will say that this is exact setup has never failed me in 60,000 miles spread between multiple motorcycles and with 2 different phones of decent size. For your reference, those phones were a Galaxy S5 in an Otterbox Commuter and a Sony Xperia Z3+ in a clear Spidgen case. The mount does have room to grow a bit bigger than these if you need it, but not by a lot.
Good luck and happy riding! =)
Edit: Forgot to offer to take pics of the setup on my bike. If you wanna see it all together first, I can do that, just drop a reply.
The DRC Edge tail light seems to be pretty common. That's the integrated one with an upgraded circuit board but the one that's just a tail light can be bought here. The Acerbis supermoto fender seems to be popular for the front. My friend has a pair of these Zeta hand guards with turn signals that I really like. As far as racks, my favorite is the b&b rack but they're based out of Australia. Any all metal shift lever such as this or this will probably help with black marks from the rubber on the stock one. I have a Corbin seat from the previous owner and I don't really like it much more than stock. I'd probably get a Seat Concepts or a Renazco. As far as foot pegs, I had a bike with IMS pegs and I liked those for the short time I had it.
Get a pair of bar-ends. They even have ones that "convert" a flat bar to drops. But even traditional bar-ends will provide you with some additional variety of hand positions which will help alleviate hand/arm discomfort on longer rides. This is an inexpensive solution that may effectively alleviate your comfort problems.
As for any further upgrades, I would not bother with this bike. Keep it well maintained, and sell it and buy another used bike that may be better suited to the kind of riding you want to get into.
It's never worth it to upgrade a lower-tier bike such as yours (and actually most hybrids). It's barely worth it to upgrade even mid-tier bikes, but not all decisions are economical when you're comfortable on a particular bike or have an emotional attachment to it - upgrades in the "few hundred dollars" category might be worth it, and wheel upgrades are definitely worth it, as you can bring a good wheel to your next bike. Upper tier bikes rarely need upgrades, except maybe a wheelset.
I'd like to contribute my experience with adding engine mods to the WRR. It was very much NOT worth it for me. First it made the bike run like shit. It was always cranky to start compared to stock. It would stall way more on technical rock sections, and it would bog hard on whoops. Also it had worse bottom end torque, you can graph it up all day, but if you try to hold a hill in a high gear on modded vs stock, it's much worse with out the EXUP. I spent months trying to troubleshoot the fueling to make it better, but nothing helped. I had the PCV, I have also ridden a friends modded WRR with the FMF controller and it also bogged bad and stalled. You can try to make the bog go away by gearing the bike super low, that helps, but it's a band-aid.
Yes it was a faster WRR on the street, about as fast as a stock DRZ400. But if you spent the same money on mods on a DRZ you would be making nearly 50 HP easy. So IMO if you want power, get a DRZ.
I road my fully modded WRR back to back with a stock one off road, with the same gearing and tires, and it was not any faster. The only difference I noticed was that the power came sooner on the turn of the throttle. This got me thinking, so I put a quick turn throttle on my stock WRR and it was a huge improvement. I would strongly advise anyone looking to get more power from their WRR to try the R6 throttle tube mod first.
The throttle tube part #: 2C0-26240-00-00 is from the 2006 - 2015 Yamaha R6
Here is an amazon link:
http://www.amazon.com/Yamaha-2C0262400000-Grip-Assembly/dp/B005C59NO2
Looking at the clamps you are looking at, they are different than the ones I have. Mine are theprotaper universalones (with 3/4" lift that you are looking to avoid).​
Mine have two bolts that go into the top of the triple tree not the one bolt like the ones you linked. Which reminded me that the SM has the upside-down forks which must have a different triple tree. When I pulled that part number, it was for a DRZ400SM though.​
Last random link for ya, this is the post I used while shopping thatRAM mount, they all say its M8 here too.​
I think you are right (we're talking different bolts) , my S doesn't have a removable lower bar clamp like the SM; which makes sense, upside-down forks vs conventional so the upper triple isn't the same. This also explains why it's so dang confusing to pick out a scott's steering damper!
​
Anyway, good luck with the new bike! This is my first season on my DRZ400s and I love it so far. Huge upgrade over my xt350... haha
Yeah. It is possible to modify and fit Harley switches on any bike. The main problem you may face is that the Harley switches are made for a larger handlebar diameter - So, either you'd have to replace the handlebars for the larger ones, or use some kind of adapters/spacers.
Another option would be to use BMW R1100 or R1150 switches. These are costly (meanwhile, lots of cheap replicas of Harley switches). R1150 are very big and easy to press. The problem with these is that you need a more special flasher unit (while I think Harley does not). You press the button on each side to turn the signals on, and then press the third button to turn them off.
Personally, I think the Harley switches are actually more friendly to various modifications. The easiest way would be to fit a larger handlebar by using some handlebar risers that accept the larger handlebar (f.e. this).
Since I am a cheap person (and own a lathe) I'd probably do it this way: I'd make aluminium adaptor sleeves that would fit over the stock handlebar, and right under the new switches. I also have a knurling tool for the inside and outside, that'd make it grip well. I'd cut it in half with an angle grinder and use it between the new switches and the handlebar...
Woohoo! A fellow Space Horse rider!
My ride as of today: http://imgur.com/vruVzQu
Did a 17ish mile ride earlier from the most northern point of Manhattan, over the Manhattan bridge to my apartment in Gowanus, BK (my longest single, almost non-stop ride yet! ). It was great except for the fact that my Brooks needs to break in already. :(
One thing I will recommend is to replace the bar end caps, those cheap plastic ones kept on falling out. I got these Fyxation aluminum ones off Amazon and they are sweet.
Hope you like it as much as I do!
You need a ramp, ratchet straps, and I recommend canyon dancers. I've hauled my bikes/scooters around a million times using just those three things plus my truck of course.
Not sure if this is the exact kind you need, but it'll give you an idea as to what they are.
Make sure the tires are aired up appropriately otherwise the bike will be extremely difficult to push. If the ramp is small OR has holes in it like many ramps you should strap it down to the truck. You stay on the left side of the bike and cover the right brake lever. Have another person push from the rear. I usually do it in increments, but many people do it in one shot. I highly recommend increments as its easy to screw up and have the bike start going up at an angle - especially if you've never loaded one before. Hold the front brake and have the person on the rear start pushing. Release the brake and ease the bike up some then tell them when you're gonna press the brake again. Just go up a foot or so at a time. Once its on the truck put the kickstand down and put the canyon dancers on. Ratchet the LEFT side first and make the strap tight enough so that the bike can't lean to the right if you push it. Now do the same for the right and even the tension up. Now alternate tightening the left side and right side until you get a good dive in the front. Shake the bike - it should be one with the truck at this point lol. Tie up the strap so it doesn't beat the paint off of the bike in the wind.
As for maintenance - if you've done some work on cars the clutch job on the bike shouldn't be very difficult for you. BUY THE SERVICE MANUAL. This way you have exact measurements of everything such as oil capacity.
The 520 says its made for claw and the 530 for palm but I have a slight claw grip and I still liked the 530 better. If you do get it though, make sure to get something like this to put on the sides of the mouse: https://www.amazon.com/TALON-998R-Grips-Rubber-Black-7-Inch/dp/B01FLQO5IU/ref=sr_1_cc_1?s=aps&ie=UTF8&qid=1511975978&sr=1-1-catcorr&keywords=talon+grip
A 160 mile round trip is 80 miles each way. AAA RV+Motorcycle roadside assistance covers towing up to 100 miles for 4 instances. This is the cheapest way to get your scooter there, and you'll have 2 tows left for the year.
However, I do own this motorcycle carrier that I got from Harbor Freight for under $100, using a 20% discount coupon during a sale. It works fine. I've towed 50cc, 150cc and 500cc scooters on it. It has a lower 400lb carry capacity, but it's aluminum, so it also weighs a lot less to install and stow away afterwards.
I use a Canyon Dancer II bar harness to secure the front fork and wheel securely to the carrier. I also have this set of ratcheting tie downs to secure the back of the scooter. The bar harness and tie downs are important to tightly secure the scooter down by compressing its own suspension.
U-Haul also rents motorcycle trailers rather inexpensively, but not as cheap as using AAA or having your own carrier, if you expect to need to haul the scooter more than once.
If you did want to do this, you've got a few options, but none of them are good or cheap.
You could get your shifters to the tops of bullhorns by buying some thumb shifter mounts. These run $65, but you might be able to find some used. You can mount downtube shifters on those, which I bet you can find in a used bin.
For brakes, you'll need to switch to mechanical brakes. You might find hydro levers made for bullhorns, but they're usually sold as a set with brakes, and they won't be easy to find used. The current levers aren't the right diameter for bullhorns, so they'll need to go. You could probably find some cheap road disc brakes, and some TT levers for $50- $100.
So, all said and done, you'll be in between $200 and $300 if you go all used, and that's with the absolute cheapest parts you can find, all for a bar setup that will probably stretch you out more than you want (if your bike fits you properly), and with a downgrade from hydro to mechanical brakes.
What about just buying some barends for $15 to see if you like the position?
2010 Phantom here. I got pretty much everything on amazon, save for the seat and bags.
I just got done installing a Memphis Shades Batwing with lower deflectors, and a Ultimate seat with backrest on mine a couple weeks ago. The 6" recurve/spoiler windshield I ordered for the batwing is a bit to short for me (I'm 5'8"), which causes wind buffeting around my helmet. I'm still debating on going for a 9" spoiler or 11" standard. The seat, while being a bit more firm, is a lot more supportive than the stock one. I haven't had the chance to test out the backrest yet, but it seems like it will make longer trips much more comfortable/tolerable.
The Viking Bags I got for it should have been a bolt on affair, but they conflicted with the shock and seat so the bike is actually at a local shop right now getting them installed and the turn signals relocated. I should have ordered the shock cutout versions, but didn't check until after the return date, oh well, live and learn.
I'll take a photo and post it here when I get the bike back. If all goes well it should be tomorrow or wed.
Some other universal things I installed myself were Grip Puppy comfort grips, motorcycle bar phone mount, bluetooth remote control with bar mount.
Title | FZ-07 Progress Report
Description | The Build Parts so far, TwoBros "The Garden Snake" edition Exhaust - Danny@TwoBros.com Stage Two Filter and Lid Kit, https://www.e-dnafilters.com/product/Stage-2-and-3-Applications/Yamaha/DNA-1092/YMA-MT07/Yamaha-MT-07-(13-15)-DNA-Air-Box-Cover-and-Filter-TC-Y7N14-S2 ECU Flash Tune - http://www.veloxracing.com/ Core Moto brake lines - http://amzn.to/2iYwoR2 LED Relay - http://amzn.to/2iq0Mnj Pro Taper Carmichael Bars - http://amzn.to/2iGkCyz Pro Taper Pillow Top MX Grips - http://amzn.to/2j6VDFB Shorty CNC Levers - http://amzn.to/2iGe6It R6 Throttle Tube - http://amzn.to/2iGbJFq RAM Mounts - http://amzn.to/2hPo0aY Phone Mount - http://amzn.to/2iG7slt GoPro Mount - http://amzn.to/2j2EGrz Bar End Mirrors - http://amzn.to/2iGdouu Bar End Mount Kit for MX Bars - http://amzn.to/2hQqdRT Washers Needed for Bar Mount - https://www.napaonline.com/napa/en/p/RFD8071034B/RFD8071034B The Proton 500 blinkers SAVE 15%-http://hightechspeed.refr.cc/bullwacky Motodynamic Fender Eliminator - http://amzn.to/2iP0L0A Motodynamic Integrated Tail Light - http://amzn.to/2ircKkB Mini Fly / Windscreen (Its only $30!) http://amzn.to/2iz4Q61 Merch http://bit.ly/1Rxcefz Shirts https://teespring.com/stores/thegardensnake Support my Patreon here, https://www.patreon.com/TheGardenSnake TheGardenSnakes Second Channel, https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCjDp-bUClKTq8lzoC18iJLw TheGardenSnake on Instagram http://instagram.com/jake_thegardensnake TheGardenSnake on FaceBook http://www.facebook.com/TheGardenSnake TheGardenSnake on Twitter https://twitter.com/#!/thegardensnake and only if you want to, https://www.paypal.com/cgi-bin/webscr?cmd=_s-xclick&hosted_button_id=DSV4PQ4B2L28E Business inquiries, TGSBusiness@mail.com Cold Funk - Funkorama by Kevin MacLeod is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution license (https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0/) Source: http://incompetech.com/music/royalty-free/index.html?isrc=USUAN1100499 Artist: http://incompetech.com/
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Sure thing. First of all, this only applies if you chose the MOE SL and not the standard MOE handguard. Also, my understanding is that the issue only relates to most mid-length but not carbine uppers. So if you bought a mid-length MOE SL handguard then this may apply to you.
Basically it boils down to the fact that, due the slimness of the handguard, it will only fit into a round handguard cap. There is absolutely no way to make it work with a triangular cap. Unfortunately, roughly 80% of the mid-length uppers out there come with a triangular cap installed. This includes PSA's uppers. This means that you will likely have to swap out the hand guard cap in order to fit this particular guard to your barrel.
Although this can be done for really cheap (Round Handguard Cap Mil-Spec A R Standard Retainer OE Replacement - $6.33) it will require that you take most of your barrel apart. This requires some specialized tools. I recommend the following:
There are plenty of videos on YouTube on how to remove the front A2 sight post so I won't get into that. Do note that you will also have to permanently remove the front sling loop in order to have the SL handguard installed as it covers that area providing more forward grip area.
Broken wire caused a popped fuse.
The little inline breakers are nice for that sort of system on a bike that’s going to get beat up a bit.
You should consider getting rid of the blinker stubs for something that tucks in out of the way. I’ve used all these on various bikes over the years with great results.
Universal tail;
UFO PP01213001 License Plate Holder (TAILLIGHT with/Signals) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00311ZI3E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_22S2CbF2855S2
Handgusrd mounted front turn signals, universal;
Zeta XC Flasher WHITE Hand Shields (Pair) for Armor Handguards https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001LV0NG8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_z5S2CbN1WTKVK
Specific to your WR250R, tail;
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F321614542662
I’ve also used the little universal flush mount turn signals on handguards, front number plates, rear fenders etc with good results.
Heres a list of mods and aftermarket replacements I have done (with pictures of what I can show)
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Sargent touring seat(with home made seat heater)
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Short Windscreen(prefer smooth air to turbulent)
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BMW style side view mirrors
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ravetech skid plate
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Crash bars
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Cycra Handguards
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Handle bar risers and Protaper handlebars
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Oxford heated grips
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Aftermarket Fork Brace(cannot recommend this enough for improved handling)
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Home built Short front fender (basically just a bent and cut supermoto fender) attached to the fork brace
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aftermarket 2 bros Exhaust (sv650 slip on muffler with sv650 collector pipes)
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LED head and tail light replacements
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Tail light flasher unit
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home made Wireless charging Ram mount
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Now to the GOOD stuff..... Engine and performance modifications
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swapped the camshafts for 2nd gen SV 650 camshafts for a small HP gain
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Swapped to high flow K&N air Filter
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More Free Flowing exhaust
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Re-mapped the Fuel map using BAZZAZ unit.
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Added Dealer mode switch, Fuel map selector switch and ABS Switch to the dash.
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Raised the rear end by 2 inches using adjustable links.
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Changed out the progressive fork springs for straight rate with 10w fork oil(looking into gold valve emulators next)
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Made some home brewed Pelican case knock off side bags(pictures soon)
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Added skull cupholder for maximum beverage badassery
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Here are some shots from a motocamp trip to Central PA
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She's taken me all over the place, I went from NYC -Austin TX in march, and I only had minor issues.
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I ride my 883N sportster all year round in Norfolk, VA and that includes some 30 degree days. I got a set of these and installed them and they work great. They block the wind off my hands very well.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B079L27P4T/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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For gloves I use either a set of Alpinestar Drystar link below or a pair of heated gloves with my Heated jacket. Most of the time I am to lazy to deal with the heated gear and use the alpinestars though and they work great and are really warm.
https://www.revzilla.com/motorcycle/alpinestars-corozal-drystar-gloves
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As for speed i can tell you that on my 883N I ride everywhere at 80+ mph and the worse my gas mileage is down to is 39MPG. On longer rides i get in the 50s. I did however put in a stage 1 setup with new Vance and Hines short shots (they are loud), the Screaming eagle air filter and a Vance and Hines FP3 which lets me adjust the ECM. I have gone on a 380 mile trip with this bike at around 80 the entire way in 40 degree weather with no issues.
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As for the headlight i use a $50 variant of the daymaker from Amazon and have had it 3 years so far with no issues. I also installed a 6" lightbar on the front below the headlight in case i need extra light and to help me be seen during the day.
For the seat i have a 2up sundowner seat that is a little wider and i love it. I actually replaced that seat like 2nd day i had the bike so my wife and daughter could ride. Been on it 3 years now.
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Below is a youtube video i did for the viking bags i have on my bike that will show you most of my mods just missing my hand guards.
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These are what I have for 7/8ths:
https://www.amazon.com/PROGRIP-714BK-Black-125mm-Sport/dp/B000WO8MKY/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=PROGRIP+714BK+Black+125mm+Dual+Sport+Gel+Grip&qid=1570152055&s=automotive&sr=1-1
They're thicker than regular grips which for some reason helps out a lot with hand fatigue. Plus they're just really comfortable. I bought them November of last year and they're still like brand new
Also I've heard about those coils you put underneath your grips before, I'll look up some youtube reviews and see what kind of experience people have with those
Gun Grip works great and is pretty cheap. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01FLQO5IU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_WhnVBbBFE90CY
If you don’t mind a rougher texture fingerboard / skateboard grip tape is awesome but can tear your hands up over time if you move your hand position a lot.
There is also a foam version for fingerboards “Tech Decks” that Ive been meaning to try. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AW3ZRF8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_RknVBbC6P81AG
I like cam straps because they're easier to work with than ratchet straps. I have Ancra straps that are fantastic. I'd definitely buy them again. I also prefer to use use Canyon Dancers to hold the bike still in my truck bed, but its rear wheel is nestled into the corner of the bed and acts as a chock, sort of.
I have a 5-gallon VP Racing fuel jug. It has served me well, but it's tough to mess that up. I imagine any decent jug with a hose will do.
My ramp is a generic folding metal one from Amazon. Says Raider on the side, but it's exactly like that one I linked. It takes some getting used to, but I use it to get my bikes into and out of my truck bed by myself. Even the one without a kickstand.
Definitely stand up. If not, you'll possibly run into issues with fuel getting in to the evap canister and even issues with how the oil reservoir is filled. To do the best job strapping it down, you might want to look into a set of Canyon Dancers like this http://www.amazon.com/Canyon-Dancer-32505-Bar-Harness-Handlebars/dp/B0013LF3ES
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01FLQO5DU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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This is what i used for my GPW and it worked amazing and has held up perfectly. Been about a month already
Getting something like this: https://www.amazon.com/TALON-Grips-Material-Sheet-7-Inch/dp/B071LJXKMP
and trimming it to fit your mouse might be the best bet.
If that's all you want, you could get some rubber grip tape off Amazon. I use it for my pistol, but in theory it would keep it from marking your floor.
TALON Grips Rubber Material Sheet, 5" x 7", Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01FLQO5IU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i.76yb451QCS8
I don't know if that's what you're looking for, but it would probably get the job done. I love that stuff.
Some low-effort accessories that I like:
https://www.amazon.com/Cycra-Probend-Handguards-Handlebar-Black/dp/B004MEGFCC
Just picked these up and they are AMAZING. I had issues with the Tusk ones banging into the windscreen, these solved it.
Get one of these. Easy to use and the best 30$ ever. No one can cut it. Saved my motorcycle which was stored on the street.
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=https://www.amazon.com/Grip-Lock-Motorcycle-Scooter-Security-Lock/dp/B0046QSKCO&ved=2ahUKEwjYuMSz7ODkAhUGiqwKHebIAXUQFjAAegQIAhAB&usg=AOvVaw3I3sphlcJcbvcbDLWbXlvU
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01FLQO5IU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Here's the one I use, it comes in a pretty big sheet and is easy to apply.
Talon Grip Sheets!! Cheaper than d-brand just not cut to shape.
I got some to make tiny strips to put on the sides of cases that need more grip
Edit: Downvoted?? They work wonderful! /u/tlaatonmai here's the link https://smile.amazon.com/TALON-998R-Grips-Rubber-Black-7-Inch/dp/B01FLQO5IU/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1505652150&sr=8-2&keywords=talon+grips
Here's some pictures: https://i.imgur.com/vqhBo80.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/bb1CT2c.jpg
You want to support your body as much as you can with your legs and core, not your arms. There's a saying in MTB "heavy feet, light hands", in which you should basically be able to ride the bike with nothing more than your fingertips on the bars.
As for extended bars, there are a few options. Ergon makes grips that are really nice and come in a variety of sizes as far as the extensions.
You can also get drops/extensions that clamp onto the ends of the bars.
These are the one i used - https://amzn.com/B008GSTWRA They went on easily and cause no issues for me. I have put about 2000 miles on them. Good luck!
Are you talking about the Handguard cap? I don't know if this one is any different than what's on the 22 version of the M&P. I've read that many people will take them off their 22s anyways. It gives it a nice free float look.
I'm a warm water cephalopod swimming in cold waters, so I went for heated grips and am a very happy squid.
Did you know Amazon will donate a portion of every purchase if you shop by going to smile.amazon.com instead? Over $50,000,000 has been raised for charity - all you need to do is change the URL!
Here are your smile-ified links:
https://smile.amazon.com/TALON-998R-Grips-Rubber-Black-7-Inch/dp/B01FLQO5IU/
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Never forget to smile again | ^^i'm ^^a ^^friendly bot
> I just wish there was some sort of texturing
How about something like this? It's what I was planning to use on mine.
EDIT: Searching a bit more revealed this!
Adding Grip Puppies to heated grips will extend the life of the grips indefinitely. And it makes them much more comfortable.
Buy this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01FLQO5IU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_RQi.xb8EANA48
Cheap and awesome material.
Example: https://imgur.com/r/MouseReview/8khlVXk
That's a real weird decision for a phone in their "Active" line.
Go add some strips of TALON Grip to the sides. It's normally used for firearms to add additional traction for better purchase.
I actually use a strip of it on the side of my MNML case so that my fingers can get a good grip on the phone (I'm left handed, in case you're wondering why it's on that side).
https://www.amazon.com/TALON-998R-Grips-Rubber-Black-7-Inch/dp/B01FLQO5IU/
http://imgur.com/46WryiN
Heated grips doesn't have to be so expensive. I'll treat my CBR with these babies next year ;)
http://www.amazon.com/BikeMaster-Motorcycle-Heated-Grips-Controller/dp/B009Z1KQ2M/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1449600110&sr=8-1&keywords=heated+hand+grips+motorcycle
That's what I use as well. I got the Ram Mount Motorcycle Handlebar Clamp Base with M8 screws here:
https://www.amazon.com/Mount-Motorcycle-Handlebar-Clamp-Screws/dp/B005J43I56,
Then I got the ram grip and clamps onto that ball with a short arm. I use the rubber band and an old phone and just leave the assembly together all the time. I unscrew the ball grip and bring the whole thing (phone and arm) inside with me when I stop (dump it in the helmet). I also routed a charging cable from the battery up there and put a silicone rubber top on it to cap it when not in use.
That way I have a nicely available maps system (turn my main phone into a hotspot, this one connects over wifi).
That is quite the first bike. Be careful man!
Also canyon dancers are for transporting bikes more securely without scratching up the plastics.
Glue them to the bar/throttle tube better? Alternatively, buy a Canyon Dancer and don't worry about your grips at all.
Progrip 714, easily the best cheap upgrade you can get.
I've been running foot pegs similar to these for three years now.
I dislike the cheap LED lights for visibility. I mean....why bother having indicators at all if they're not visible? Each time I go looking for new indicators I'm like....meh the stock ones do their job just fine.
I actually have an Abyssus V2 that I took down to 68g by removing the 10g weight that is screwed on inside and replacing the rubber side grips (which weigh another 3-4g) with this material, which grips better and is far lighter.
Definitely worth doing.
I have been looking for the same thing. I have tried all of these cases and what I found is that TPU cases are not anti-slip. They are more slippery like you said. PU leather cases have some grip. I tried this one and found it fairly anti-slip. But I wasn't a fan of the way it looked.
As of right now, I'm going to get a simple TPU case and stick this on the back. It adds a ton of grip and adheres very good.
Get a RAM ball to replace one of your yoke screws
Motorcycle M8 Bolt Handlebar Clamp Mounting 2.5 cm Ball https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B005J43I56/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_qSIkDb3P1GVTY
Then a standard RAM arm
RAM Mounts UNPKD RAM DOUBLE SOCKET ARM, 1" BALL, RAM-B-201U (1 BALL) https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B000UGZTQO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_JTIkDb1RH70QX
Then a case (plenty to choose from)
Universal Waterproof/Weather Proof GPS SatNav Case with RAM 1inch Ball Fitting for RAM Mounts (SKU 6525) https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B003CG2KAM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_UWIkDb0W253MZ
I had this setup on my Honda Deauville, works great.
Progrip 714BK Black 125mm Dual Sport Gel Grip https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000WO8MKY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_ZvBwyb7DQBT7P
Amazing and low cost grips. I put them on all of my bikes. I have them on my DRZ!
Get some of this to use on it man. It would look much better than the wood grain
On the R1200R, the gps is connected with the 12V auxiliary power cable which is switched on with the ignition. This cable can be acquired at your bmw motorcycle shop: hornig
You take this cable, and connect the proper leads (see description of the link above) with this usb power regulator: ebay/amazon
I've tried a few different 12V to 5V usb regulators, but this is the only one that charges the phone consistently with 2 Amps. Most other regulators I've tested don't supply a consistent 5V when the bikes 12V fluctuates (e.g coming to a stop/accelerating/switching to highbeam) causing the phone to drop to a lower charging speed.
I've found an adapter plate to mount that usb regulator to the handlebar in a local bike shop (standard ~28mm diameter socket) for $5. You can probably also cut a piece of plastic/metal like this and mount it with a handlebar screw. Alternatively: twistedthrottle
edit:
To hold your phone, Ram Mounts X-Grip works best (though expensive). You can replace one bolt on the handlebar for an anchoring point: hornig/amazon.
edit2:
The best/most secure throttle lock I've found is brake away: https://brakeawayproducts.com/ . You would have to measure the available space and handlebar diameter to choose the right one though.
I've seen a lot of people use gun grip tape to pad up their mouse, something like that would probably help you out here.
TALON 998G Grips Sheet (Granulate-Black, 5 x 7-Inch) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01FLQO5DU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_.CecBbXRV2BFJ
I just got these, I really like them Bikemaster Heated Grips for 7/8in handlebars - One Size https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009Z1KQ2M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_4UzcAbH5S59NA
I bought it off amazon. But you can get just the tube as well. Or the motion pro for a slightly less aggressive effect. https://www.amazon.com/YAMAHA-2C0262400000-Yamaha-Grip-Assembly/dp/B005C59NO2/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=Yamaha+2C0262400000+Grip+Assembly&qid=1565977871&s=gateway&sr=8-3
The bar ends that come with most handlebar wraps tend to fall out, so I bought some quality ones that tighten in the handlebar so they are sure to hold. these
Bar ends prevent you from taking a core sample of you or anyone else if you have the misfortune of crashing.
I've been using these for 2 years. Helps with throttle control too.
https://www.amazon.com/Grip-Puppy-Comfort-Grips-Original/dp/B00CP9ADD8/
Like this?
https://www.amazon.com/Grip-Lock-Motorcycle-Scooter-Security-Lock/dp/B0046QSKCO
Thanks, I was unaware as I have just recently seen those. This is what I usually use, https://www.amazon.com/TALON-998R-Grips-Rubber-Black-7-Inch/dp/B01FLQO5IU/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=talon+grips&qid=1565646549&s=gateway&sr=8-3
One thing that isn't explicitly mentioned here is the difference between reflected and projected headlights. Halogen lights are reflected and LED's are projected. I'll let you do your own research on this matter because there are a bunch of articles that will communicate the difference between them better than I can. While you can put a LED H4 bulb in a relective housing, you definitely should NOT do this. The beam pattern will be all wrong and blind everyone. This is not ok. You should only use a projected bulb with a projection housing, so if you want to go LED you should pony up for a full on kit. This is all under the assumption that your bike now has a reflective housing.
Also, your stator might be able to keep up with the power output with the heated grips attached. I recently purchased the bikemaster heated grips and threw them on my bench power supply. At full output they only used 30W of power and these bad larrys put out plenty of heat. I've only ever needed them at half power riding in ~40F temps. Good luck.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005J43I56/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Nah you want this if you have a FZ or something with similar style handlebar clamps. It looks like this on the bike
http://www.campidiot.net/dump/photo/FZ09Mount1.jpg
https://www.amazon.com/TALON-998R-Grips-Rubber-Black-7-Inch/dp/B01FLQO5IU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1510877714&sr=8-1&keywords=rubber+talon+grip
get rubber for a softer feel or granulate for something a little more rough (you can sand it out with 120g sandpaper if it's too rough, just make sure you do this before you put it on).
The XGrip is what you were using?
Should have used the rubber straps to hold it down to the grip. And use a ubolt type mount, or a top clamp bolt type mount.
Ram Mount Motorcycle Handlebar Clamp Base with M8 Screws https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005J43I56/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_0lFMAb9CPF35C
Senkauto Motorcycle Gloss Black Coffin Cut Hand Guards Customs Handguards for Harley 07 and up Electra Street Road Glide Road King baggers (Large) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079L27P4T/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_YRfvDb421ZWV1
Risers? Just cheap ones I found on Amazon. First time I stood up on the bike the bars felt short, so I bought these (https://www.amazon.com/Kawasaki-Aluminum-Handle-Risers-inch/dp/B008GSTWRA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1497301478&sr=8-1&keywords=klr+handlebar+risers) because they were so cheap
It's talon grip tape from
Amazon link : https://www.amazon.com/TALON-Grips-Material-Sheet-7-Inch/dp/B071LJXKMP?th=1&psc=1
And it's the one I bought from aliexpress which is cheaper than the talon grip but similar to it.
Link : https://m.aliexpress.com/item/32933326999.html?pid=808_0000_0101&spm=a2g0n.search-amp.list.32933326999&aff_trace_key=804d056dcb044953931fc19c8601cf02-1555125843610-05253-UneMJZVf&aff_platform=msite&m_page_id=PAGE_VIEW_IDCLIENT_ID(aefeMsite)NAV_TIMING(navigationStart)
As long as they’re the 7/8s bars yes. They bolt right on but be prepared to cut them down a little.
Pro Taper Seven Eighths Handlebars - Standard 7/8 (Carmichael) (Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000TYEE0E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_p0llDbRNTZ77P
Pistol grip material
https://www.amazon.com/TALON-998R-Grips-Rubber-Black-7-Inch/dp/B01FLQO5IU/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1551087471&sr=8-4&keywords=pistol+grip+tape
Center mount using the handlebar clamp mount
TALON 998R Grips Sheet (Rubber-Black, 5 x 7-Inch) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01FLQO5IU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_j218Bb89PSZHC
SW Motech tank bag
Ram Mount Ball Holder Arm
Note that I dremeled the ball to contour it to the handlebars and I bought a different bolt to use
Progrips I think...
https://www.amazon.com/Ram-Mount-Motorcycle-Handlebar-Screws/dp/B005J43I56/ref=sr_1_2?s=automotive&srs=2599345011&ie=UTF8&qid=1479752825&sr=1-2
This is the specific mount i bought and that's probably why it didn't come out.
I just used grip puppies. If you don't mind not using leather.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CP9ADD8/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_-eSUAbBDKBD5H
Get some grip puppies
https://www.amazon.com/Sportouring-Handlebar-Grip-Puppies-Grips/dp/B00CP9ADD8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1501605757&sr=8-1&keywords=grip+puppy
Maybe look into heaver bar end weights too.
I usually take painkillers before, durying and after long rides.
TALON 998R Grips Sheet (Rubber-Black, 5 x 7-Inch)
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01FLQO5IU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_DhKSeXWYHgHXk
https://www.amazon.com/TALON-Grips-Material-Sheet-7-Inch/dp/B071LJXKMP
Here is the mobile version of your link
not the first guy but I use the same setup and can't understand why people use the U-bolt bar mount when this option is available
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005J43I56/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
TALON Grips Material Sheet, 5 x 7-Inch -- Rubber Black
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01FLQO5IU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Try this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01FLQO5IU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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Second this. It actually uses a ram mount ball for a motorcycle. LINK Key is to go to your hardware store and get the correct threaded bolt and length if the ones that come with it don't work.
https://amzn.com/B0068ESQTY
also
https://amzn.com/B0013LF3ES
I bought these for the tape https://www.amazon.com/TALON-Grips-Material-Sheet-7-Inch/dp/B01FLQO5IU?keywords=mouse+grip+tape&qid=1540671229&sr=8-8&ref=sr_1_8
Talon grips, material is very rubbery and doesnt peel away easily when heated with a blow dryer.
Talon gun tape. Amazon link here:https://www.amazon.com/TALON-Grips-Material-Sheet-7-Inch/dp/B071LJXKMP
What if I put some handlebar ends ? But I saw someone on the internet who converted his bad boy to road bike but I think that's going to cost you a little money.
or get one of these
my bike's fairing gets in the way if I mount from the shocks, and I snapped a fairing connector doing it.
You shouldn't have to get a A2 sight. If its a rifle length gas tube then all you need is a [hand guard cap] (https://www.amazon.com/Handguard-Mil-Spec-Standard-Retainer-Replacement/dp/B00MNS35EU) placed IFO the gas block.