Reddit mentions: The best satellite tv parts & equipment

> Why do you reccomend the Chromecast and not the Fire Stick or Roku? Is it just because of cost?

Mainly I was thinking about how sharing a device might screw up your Recommended listings unless you logout your account. I also remembered that most (all?) devices that have a builtin Youtube app are capable of casting Youtube from your smartphone/tablet. I know the Roku and my crappy (but free) LG webOS TV with the Youtube app can both receive a Youtube cast.

So I guess it doesn't really matter what device you decide on. But if I were you I would try before buying a bunch of devices for your entire home. You might even find that your family members have different preferences. I bought my mom a Black Friday Rokue Express+ for $25 and she loves it for what she uses it for. It's definitely one of the easiest devices to use. But I'll probably go for AndroidTV devices (Mi Box or Nvidia Shield) for myself if a Chromecast won't cut it anymore. I pretty much stick to free content via OTA TV, Youtube, and occasionally PlutoTV and Crackle.

> You say that the Mini's don't support Wifi. Do the Roamio's work over Wifi? If so, how do they share content with each other.

You know I'm not exactly sure. I would assume they require a wired network for sharing recordings and possibly the apps would work over WiFi. You might look into it. Either way a wired network is going to provide the best experience. See /r/TiVo and the many forums online.

> Depending on weather or not the Roamio's can work over WiFi for Netflix and Sling content, it sounds like I might also have to run some Ethernet cables between the basement where the cable modem is, the family room and 1st floor master bedroom.

The Roamio will be able to use Netflix and Sling over WiFi. It's the TiVo recorded content I'm unsure about. And this is why you might consider skipping Minis and going for all Roamios instead: The Minis carry a monthly fee, but the Roamios with lifetime service subscription don't and are only $50 more. So the Minis will end up costing more in the long-term. You should also be able to find used Roamios with lifetime service subscription pretty easily if their new pricing ever increases. The subscription is attached to the device. Ask the seller for the TiVo Service Number and call TiVo to verify it has a lifetime service subscription before purchasing. If you buy a used one then be sure to blow out any dust with compressed air (air in a can at office supply place) to keep it running well.

> It sounds like this project is going to involve running cables. I'll need at least a new coaxial run from the attic/roof antenna to a coaxial distribution hub in the basement.

Ideally I would run dual RG6 coax and dual Cat6 ethernet to every TV location running to a centralized media/data closet/wall rack or shelf. This would allow you to use one coax "network" for an OTA antenna and another "network" for a future service available from satellite or a cable company (if they get their act together). The dual ethernet will allow you to connect two devices without having to add a network switch at TV location.

They make coax/ethernet bundled cables and at a minimum I would use that. Coax/ethernet combo jack plates and even dual coax/ethernet combo jack plates are available. If you go without jack plates then you can use coax or ethernet coupler/connectors to easily extend the cable if necessary.

EDIT: Consider this distribution amplifier for an OTA antenna. You might also search/ask /r/HomeNetworking and maybe /r/HomeTheater for advice. You'll want to eliminate the possibility of causing congestion on your WiFi network from multiple WiFi devices streaming at once. This won't be an issue with stationary devices connected via ethernet.

When buying a capture card, you might as well go big the first time around since a good one will pretty fulfill all your needs for a long time.

Whatever you get, I'd suggest an internal capture card or 3.0 USB external. Using an external card through 2.0 USB is viable (and probably the cheapest option), but it adds an extra layer of complexity to your stream - having to contend with video delay from the capture card within your broadcasting software. Basically the footage from the card will anywhere from 1-3 seconds behind your facecam / mic. For example, say you're playing a horror game. Without adjusting for the 2.0 USB capture card's delay, you will react to a jump scare on your facecam and mic before it actually happens in the game footage from the perspective of your viewers.

You fix this by adding a delay to your facecam and mic. Obviously it is for you to decide what is worth it, but I feel paying extra to not have to deal with that extra layer of complexity and set up is worth it, which is why I suggest picking up an internal capture card over a 3.0 USB external.

For a solution that can capture HDMI with little delay, deff consider the HD60 Pro
(full disclosure Elgato sent us an advanced release of the HD60 Pro before it was officially out), or, if you're also considering streaming anything retro at any point, my personal favorite, the Micomsoft SC-512N1-L/DVI.

http://solarisjapan.com/products/sc-512n1-l-dvi-component-hd-and-dvi-capture-board

There's also a variant that's $100 less but doesn't have a pass through (it's also been out of stock for a while). If you get this version you'd either need a splitter or to capture the game footage from something like Amarec. Getting splitters and cables might end up costing more than the $100 you save though.

https://www.sabrepc.com/yuan-sc512-n1-l-dvi-single-channel-dvi-capture-card.html

I suggest this card because it has very, very little latency, is easy to plug and play one you have the drivers installed (no fiddling with the capture card's resolution settings to get it see whatever it is you're trying to capture), can pretty much capture anything, and won't incur any screen tearing when capturing a second PC unlike some cheaper capture cards (the previous statement is assuming you're not using a 144hrz monitor). I feel the quality of of this card is as good as you're going to get (720p / 30 FPS) when streaming at 3500.

The HD60 Pro is just as capable when capturing HDMI, but I only suggest the SC-512 due to the ability to capture a greater number of sources. If you don't see yourself branching out you will probably be better served with the HD60 Pro or the HD 60 S which is the same thing but 3.0 USB.

As for stripping HDCP, from my experience most capture cards will not do that, but an HDMI splitter will. Here is one that most certainly will:

HDMI Splitter, SOWTECH Digital 1X2 HDMI Splitter for Full HD 1080P Support 3D (One Input To Two Outputs) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CCMOMM0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_xvvvybR5SMSZ1

So there are a few ways you could do this, but I'll describe the way that would best maintain your ability to play games normally while not getting an overly complicated setup.

Basically you'll need two things: a video splitter and a capture card in your PC (as well as the appropriate software to run and stream everything of course).

You would basically run the output from the game system into the splitter, have one go to your TV as normal and have one go into the capture card on your computer. You don't want to try playing games through a capture card because the capturing process introduces lag which will affect gameplay.

You can get a simple component splitter like this (you'd also need to get the male to male adapter since the Wii has it's own plug for the output), but you would also need to split the audio inputs as well with a couple of something like this (you could of course just get 5 of the Y adapters to split each cable individually and not have to worry about male to male adapters and such).

If you wanted to stream/play both your PS3 and Wii via component that combined with the capture card you linked to looks like it would be enough - that capture card doesn't appear to have HDMI input though so you would have to use component (not sure if you're currently using component or HDMI on your TV).

You mention that your monitor doesn't have a component input - were you planning on trying to play the games using your monitor rather than your normal TV? It shouldn't be necessary to do so - with the splitter you can put the output anywhere you like so having it go to your normal TV seems like the best choice.

The following are the tools I used to add a new cable line for MoCA to an old room on my land:

​

*NOTE: THIS SETUP DOES NOT APPLY TO A FIOS SERVICE PROVIDER.*

​

(optional) MoCA POE Filter for Cable TV Coaxial Networking - This goes onto the incoming COAX Cable. Sometimes your provider does use the same frequency as the MoCA signal to manage with its devices. So This makes sure that your signal is safe to use, and doesn't interfere with your providers own management. This is optional because it depends on your layout. If you live in an apartment complex or area with multiple houses connected (wall to wall) , I HIGHLY recommend you purchase this to prevent your neighbors from receiving and possibly connecting to your network. You should connect this as follows: |Incoming COAX > MoCA POE Filter|

​

2-Way Coax Cable Splitter Bi-Directional MoCA - This allowed me to split my incoming cable so that I can reuse the same line leading to the outside of my house. You can also use it if all your lines are internal, but I digress. It allows you to split and connect multiple rooms (while being safe for MoCA signals). Ideally it goes: | Incoming COAX > MoCA POE Filter > MoCA Cable Splitter > Every room you want connected (including router) |

​

​

MOTOROLA MOCA Adapter for Ethernet Over Coax, 1,000 Mbps Bonded 2.0 - This is what you use to connect both ( or more) ends of the MoCA network. At the end of it all, this is how your network should look:

The internet comes into your house via | Incoming Coax > MoCA POE Filter > MoCA Cable Splitter > COAX Cable leading to MoCA Adapter > MoCA Adapter > Modem > Router (WAN port). |

​

At this point your router is connected to the internet. The connection to the rest of your house is a follows: | Router via LAN port > MoCA Adapter that's connecting to your Modem > MoCA signal travels down your internet Coax > returns to the MoCA Cable Splitter > Coax split from cable splitter, leading to other section of house > MoCA Adapter > Device or switch |

​

(optional) QUAD SHIELD SOLID COPPER 3GHZ RG-6 Coax Cable - I needed to order cable because the room I connected had no coax leading to it. If you need to buy cable, make sure you measure the distance away from the splitter, BASED ON the path you plan to lay the COAX cable on. Then add a few feet "just in case". If you don't need to run new cable, this is a non issue, and can be safely not purchased. Also, this particular cable was not pre-terminated, so I had to terminate and crimp the ends myself which may not be for everyone. Pre-made cables are available, albeit a bit more expensive.

​

(optional) Waterproof Connectors Crimping Tool - This is the tool I used to crimp my COAX cable. If you don't need to terminate your own cables, you don't need to buy this tool.

​

(optional) Rotary Drill Bit - I only needed this because I had to drill in from the outside (old house). You may also need to use this if you have to add a new hole in your wall, for a brand new coax connection. Needless to say, this is optional.

​

(optional) Coaxial Wall Plate - I used this to add the coax cable to my wall. It makes it look nice but isn't "technically" necessary. Use it as you see fit.

​

(optional) 3ft BLACK QUAD SHIELD SOLID COPPER 3GHZ RG-6 Coaxial Cable - This connects the coax wall plate to the branched off network (and devices) Use as you see fit.

​

*NOTE: THIS SETUP DOES NOT APPLY TO A FIOS SERVICE PROVIDER.*

​

If you have any questions, let me know. all the items I listed above can be swapped out for cheaper or more locally accessible items at will. Just be sure yo do your research first.

Seems like no one is getting your idea. If you only want to capture, edit and upload or stream directly, you don't need to spend too much. There are two important parts that you need to consider if your idea is to play and record from a console at 4k60: 1. A video capture card like Elgato 4k60 pro ($271 USD) 2. A HDMI splitter that let you play and record at the same time at 4k60 Gofanco Prophey splitter ($56 USD). For the build; if you are planning to edit on Adobe Premiere, I'd stay with Intel because you should use hardware encoding to reduce render times and Premiere only works with Intel Quicksync. For the GPU, I recommend Nvidia for stability and if you'd like to stream, the nvenc encoder is possibly the best option for OBS. Having a mid-high GPU opens the path of PC gaming at 1440p or 1080p.

The build I'm suggesting is $1232 USD for a grand total of $1,559 USD, leaving some spare cash for upgrading and buy other accessories(mouse, keyboard, webcam, headset, etc.). I highly recommend adding more storage (you're gonna need it for 4k recording) and maybe more RAM or better GPU.

Edit: If you don't mind a bit longer render times or not gonna use Premiere, you should go with 3rd gen Ryzen. Also, streaming high quality 4k video may be difficult, you should consider to scale it down to 1080p. Important: if you're planning to OC, you'll need a better cooler (maybe bequiet, noctua or liquid cooler).

PCPartPicker Part List

Type|Item|Price

----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel Core i7-9700K 3.6 GHz 8-Core Processor | $359.99 @ Best Buy
CPU Cooler | Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler | $34.89 @ OutletPC
Motherboard | MSI Z390-A PRO ATX LGA1151 Motherboard | $109.99 @ Amazon
Memory | Corsair Vengeance LPX 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3200 Memory | $72.99 @ Amazon
Storage | ADATA XPG SX8200 Pro 1 TB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive | $149.99 @ Amazon
Storage | Seagate Constellation CS ISE 3 TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $55.99 @ Amazon
Video Card | Asus GeForce GTX 1660 Ti 6 GB DUAL OC Video Card | $249.89 @ OutletPC
Case | NZXT H500 ATX Mid Tower Case | $89.98 @ NZXT
Power Supply | Corsair RMx (2018) 650 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply | $107.99 @ Amazon
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total (before mail-in rebates) | $1271.70
| Mail-in rebates | -$40.00
| Total | $1231.70
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2019-09-22 02:46 EDT-0400 |

The video I linked is the raw livestreamed video, no re-uploading or editing from a vod. I livestreamed it on YouTube and after the stream it was saved onto YouTube like that.

I use GPU to record and CPU to stream. Since my GPU is significantly more powerful than my cpu.

The recorded footage, I was going to use as a backup in case something went wrong with the livestreamed footage for whatever reason. Like a bunch of dropped frames or something. But that hasn't happened yet.

My cpu usage when streaming is only around 51% and GPU usage is only 20%.

I have a hard drive that is literally only used for recorded footage. It is fragmented but that's fine because the footage doesn't need to be defragmented. If the footage gets used, it'll only be thrown into Adobe premiere, edited, uploaded, then deleted from the drive. No use in keeping it around if it'll be on my YouTube account forever. But recently I haven't had to use the recorded footage because the livestreamed footage is good enough.

Hope that helps answer your questions! Not trying to debunk anything you're saying, just giving more intimate details about my setup!

I do use a hdmi splitter inbetween the HD 60 pro, ps4 pro (any console for that matter), and my monitor. But that hasn't been an issue for months. I think the purpose of it, if I recall correctly, was to use it to record / stream older consoles like the Xbox 360 with the HD 60 pro. And it works very well for that. So I just kept it in the hardware loop. This is the one that I'm using: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004F9LVXC

I hope that helps you guys help me!

> Currently the main coax line goes through the basement direct to the 1st floor wall outlet, then coax to the modem.
I’ve made a drawing of how I understand the internet could go to the splitter, then run again to the 1st floor outlet, then to the modem.

Ideally, you'd have zero interruptions between the coax coming from the street, all the way to the plug on the modem. Since it sounds like the coax enters the walls to the first floor from the basement, just be sure you eliminate any coax splitters by using a barrel adapter
UNLESS you also want a coax drop for Cable TV elsewhere in the house.

Then it's just a matter of making sure you've simplified the circuit to the street using the fewest number of splitters as you can. Each two-way split introduces approximately 3.5dB of loss (a little more than 50%) of power lost. Splitters are also known to be super poorly made and absolutely go bad after a few years of use. You may consider replacing any that you're using. These are decent ones.


> I'm feeling bold

Two of those ethernet strips there in the basement look like basic patch panels. They're just for organizing the cables and don't do any switching, per se. I'd figure out what connections you actually need in the house, beyond maybe a ethernet connection to the modem, the TV and your desktop PC and then go through and eliminate everything else. If you want to double check where the lines are terminated to through the massive web of cables, you can pick up an Ethernet Probe and Test kit to make tracking everything down easier. I'd (ideally) only buy one that has a dedicated ethernet jack and is made by Extech, Fluke, or Klein. As a bonus, It's a handy tool for tracing out ANY sort of wiring, too.

Once you eliminate all the unnecessary stuff, you can start making it look nice. Use some velcro wire ties and bundle everything until it looks respectable. You MAY find that you have odd-length cables used as patch cables between the switch and the patch panel. Don't cut anything, and maybe lay out anything you eliminate by length so you can reuse them if your now-neat-looking bundle could benefit from different-length cables. Don't forget to label everything for clarity using your own philosophy.


> I’m not sure how to use this stuff, if it’s past it’s prime, or if I should even bother. But, If it could be useful I’d like to use it. I just don’t understand it despite reading the sticky’s, etc.

You'll feel a lot more comfortable once you understand what everything is and where it all goes.

All that cable is probably Cat5 or Cat5e at best. If you want to be ready for gigabit speeds in the coming years, you might consider running some new Cat6a or better. I don't know anything about the big switch in the photos, but it's probably doing the job fine for now - If you want faster than 100mbit/s network speeds though, you'll need to upgrade it along with the ethernet. As with the ethernet, it's not a priority, just a nice-to-have.

The big coax amplifier you've got there was probably built in 1974 (note: pre-internet) and is all kinds of lossy/noisy mess. I'd go ahead and get rid of that and anything coax-related that you don't think you'll end up using. There's better stuff available on the market now for stupidly cheap, if you decide that you still need an amplified coax signal.

I'd love to see more pictures once you get it all put together and looking nice. If you need any further hardware advice, let us know!

Hey thanks for the reply. I know it was a lot to take in but I wanted to be thorough so we didn't waste time/energy on starter things.

• Run an HDMI out of GPU in (1) into the Live Gamer 4K that's in (2)
  
  • Got it
    
• Run another HDMI cable out of the Live Gamer 4K passthrough in (2) to the gaming display for (1)
  
  • Success! This works and now I can both play in 1440p/144Hz HDR on (1) and capture that on (2)
    
• Run a DP cable from the GTX 2080 in (2) into your streaming monitor for (2)
  
  • I have a GTX 1080 Ti in (2) connected to a Dell 2560x1600 display which I have set to 1440p for the sake of uniformity between (1) and (2)
    
  • Plugging the monitor into (1) with its DP cable activates dual display as expected on (1)
    
    I would prefer not to have to run (2) just to play on (1). I'm considering ordering one more capable HDMI cable and getting an HDMI spiltter. Would this work as well? Any suggestions as far as what to look for outside of the normal compatibilities? I'm looking at something like this;
    
    gofanco Prophecy HDMI Splitter 4K 60Hz 1x2 2-Port – 4K @60Hz 4:4:4, HDR, 3D, HDMI 2.0a, HDCP 2.2, EDID, 18Gbps, Auto Scaling, Firmware Upgradeable https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B079HJWF31/ref=ask_ql_qh_dp_hza
    
    or
    
    Blackbird 4K Pro 1x2 HDMI Splitter HDR 18Gbps 4K@60Hz YCbCr 4:4:4 with HDCP 2.2 Support
    
    https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=15258&gclid=Cj0KCQjwivbsBRDsARIsADyISJ96hl0yPxHA49JXF6-iIyxf7vNAxUj8xysAQuXV26kRZJfOEmktbWAaAvIcEALw_wcB
    
    I'm leaning towards the last one since it's 18Gbps and doesnt auto scale down to 1080p like the first one does (you can still change that but I don't like that it wants to downscale by default).
    
    Thank you for the answers and suggestions and I look forward to hearing these next steps and suggestions!

The Windows 7 boot logo screen is always 1024x768 (some TVs report this incorrectly, or the GPU upscales, mine says is 1080p even though it obviously isn't) unless your monitor doesn't support that resolution (and will fall back to the legacy 640 x 480 Vista boot screen, but that's very rare nowadays). Once the video driver starts it will go to your normal resolution. So yes, the resolution change is normal.

I found an interesting thread here on stack exchange.

http://gaming.stackexchange.com/questions/169632/ps4-video-takes-a-long-time-to-show-up-over-hdmi

In other words, HDCP (High Definition Copy Protection) was causing his PS4 to have an extreme delay before displaying HDMI video. You may be having a similar issue.

Check the AMD Radeon Control Panel and look for something along the lines of "HDCP Status" in the monitor/HDTV settings. HDCP should be enabled. However if it isn't, something is not allowing the GPU and TV to establish a secure connection.

Make sure there are no devices (capture cards, splitters, etc) between the TV and video card. Make sure your GPU drivers are up to date too and try doing a clean reinstall of them. Otherwise, I would try is to replace the HDMI cable, as some can be built pretty shoddily. But it could be an issue simply between the GPU and TV. It does happen sometimes. If the issue is HDCP though, you might be able to use certain TV services like Amazon Video, Netflix or play Blu-Rays. If that doesn't concern you, you could just live without it.

I've heard that some HDMI splitter will remove HDCP. However, I have no experience with any for this purpose so I can't vouch for a specific one. Supposedly, this one will: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B004F9LVXC/?tag=hotoge-20

This project was inspired by a previous post by EvilBorisDX about a month ago. Thanks goes out to him for the idea, he provides some tutorials that are worth checking out - his implementation is based on Lightberry, which is a prebuilt package. I decided to build my own, and i'm glad i did - this is a really awesome addition to your gaming rig, and i recommend it to everyone! - Happy to answer any questions.

Looking around the web i found two great tutorials (linked in the video description) that helped me through the process, but it wasn't without some pain points. Here's a few key takeaways (and my parts list is at the bottom):

• You want an EasyCap grabber with the STK1160 chipset. I went through several, and while you can get it working with other chipsets (except the Somagic, if you get a Somagic just give up... it's not worth the effort, order a new one and roll the dice again), the STK1160 is by far the easiest. In fact, one of the tutorials has an SD image that will just straight work with this chipset.
  
• Not all HDMI->Composite converters are equal. First, Amazon sent me the wrong one altogether, which was a RCA->HDMI... took me awhile to notice that. Then, the replacement would only accept a 480p input (which forced the PS4 to display in 480p). After the replacement converter was in place, everything settled in and i was finally able to dial in my color settings and get this thing up and going.
  
• The replacement converter displays a test pattern when it has no signal, as opposed to just going to a black screen - so i had to add a power switch to the LED strip to be able to turn off the LEDs without shutting down the whole system. I decided to go with a Belkin WEMO so my fat ass didn't have to get up to turn off the lights, but any 2 pole switch inline with the power will work too.
  
• Don't be afraid to change the Hyperion color settings (especially the Threshold and WhiteLvl values) from what's shown on the web. Dial it in to your preference.
  
• Most tutorials call for you to power the Pi and the LEDs from the same power supply. I did not go this route since i wanted to be able to easily toggle the power to the LEDs without shutting down the Pi. If you go this route, you MUST ground the LEDs to both the power AND the Pi's grounding jumper, or the lights will not function properly.
  
  My full parts list is as follows. I found these to all work well, and the EasyCap is guaranteed to be an STK1160:
  
  
• WS2801 LEDs (Any WS2801 cuttable strip will work)
  
• Screen Grabber - STK1160 - There are cheaper ones available, but you take chances on getting a different firmware.
  
• HDMI Splitter
  
• HDMI->Composite Converter - Really don't mess around here. Get this one. It's not the same as is shown in the picture (it's white, not black), but it's 1080p and doesn't require external power. Only con is the test pattern.
  
• Any Raspberry Pi kit. I went with the CanaKit Starter kit with the Model B
  
• DC Power Adapter - To power your LEDs
  
• You'll also need misc cables (RCA and HDMI), some wires, soldering iron, 5v power port, etc... to set this all up. Good fun project overall.

Yes i do this all the time and works find. However if the resolution difference is between the 2 it defaults to the lower one. Also keep in mind it will only split the video not audio signal from it

Works well just make sure to pick a nice one and don't cheap out; got a great one for like 40-50 bucks from amazon. Have used cheaper ones and trust me there's a difference. This is the one i bought and works well http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007NKOC2W/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Playing with my xim4 with keyboard/mouse makes alot of difference when playing FPS games. I usually split to my smaller tv on my desk and it helps alot.

I've been looking around myself and I think this method might not work if I want to use HDR on my TV. Originally I was wondering if the Elgato Capture Card would be able to at least read the 4k signal and downscale, but it won't be able to, so I can't get away with a 4K HDMI splitter. And it seems that this method with the downscaler might not work since I use HDR.

I looked around more and found this product which is a splitter and downscaler in one, but it also states under the Important Notes: "Splitter can bypass 4K HDR data content but cannot process it to make 4K HDR content fit 1080p proportionally." Which I think means it cannot work with HDR and downscaling to 1080p. An Amazon comment said " if you’re trying to get a 4K 60hz HDR/1080p 60hz split into an Elgato capture card, you will need an additional HDCP 1.4 splitter." But when I read more comments others say it works with HDR and with an HD60.

 

• EDIT: I read a comment from the company stating "Thanks for the review. We would like to know more about your setup to figure out the issue, as this splitter is able to display in 4K HDR and downscale to 1080p on a separate display simultaneously. Would you like to set up a call with our tech support team to troubleshoot?"
  
  So I think I'll be able to send another display 1080p/60fps but I think the Elgato HD60 Pro hardware might not work with it in the same way.
  
  
• EDIT 2: "You need to swap the outputs over. It tells you this is the manual. The 1080p output must be connected to output 1. Then just leave the DIP switches all UP and it will output HDR 4K on output 2 and 1080p non HDR on output 1. The HDR information is extra, it sits on top of the normal video signal. The splitter just ignores it for the 1080p output "
  
  So I think this product will do exactly what I need it to do, hopefully.

Responding in the order encountered, rather than by priority...
 

> POE Filter can be found here. That is on the line right as it gets into the house.

The "PoE" MoCA filter would ideally be installed on the input to the initial splitter, as doing so provides a performance improvement over having any length of coax between the "PoE" MoCA filter and the initial splitter's input. (This would provide a slight performance improvement and should be implemented, but isn't likely the cause of your Basement MoCA issues.)
 

> That goes into an Antronix 3 way splitter 5-1002MHz Model #: CMC2003BH-A Each output shows -5.58dB out

You'll want to upgrade this splitter to a MoCA-compatible model... such as this Holland balanced 3-way model. The existing splitter may not be blocking your MoCA signals, but may be contributing more loss than desirable.
 

> Output 1: Home Phone/Kitchen TV (Non Tivo Connected) Antronix FRA1-1510 Forward/Return amplifier/Splitter to get my home phone to work, One of the two Coax cables goes to power the modem for the home phone, the other for the non-TiVo TV

If you don't have any MoCA devices down this coax line, you should install a MoCA filter on the "Output 1" port to prevent MoCA signals from wastefully running down this line... especially since that in-line amplifier could create some unpredictable effects on the MoCA signals.
 

> Output 2: CommScope 2 way splitter Model SV-2G 5-1002MHz one goes to the guest bedroom where we previously had the other Mini and it worked fine (one we moved to basement) and the other goes to the Master Bedroom where a Mini that works fine currently is

Could upgrade to MoCA-compatible (e.g.), though shouldn't have any effect on your Basement MoCA issue.
 

> Output 3: Same two way splitter as Output 2. One goes to the cable modem I provided details for above and the other goes to the Tuning Adapter Model Cisco STA 1520

Per previous posts on recommendations for the tuning adapter setup, you'll need another 2-way splitter or switch to a single 3-way splitter, either balanced or unbalanced depending on your signal strength requirements. I'd prioritize upgrading this splitter, along with the initial splitter, to MoCA-compatible models -- though you might as well upgrade 'em all.

Also as covered in the previous tuning adapter setup recommendations, you'll need a second MoCA filter for your setup, here, installed as a "protective" MoCA filter on the input of the tuning adapter. (This would make it 3 total MoCA filters for your setup, if you also implement a MoCA filter to block-off Output 1 of the initial splitter, as suggested above.)

Further, if looking to boost the signal received at the cable modem and DVR a bit (i.e. 'Output 3' of the main splitter), at the expense of the other outputs of the main splitter, you could opt for an unbalanced 3-way as your initial splitter, connecting the low-loss output of the splitter as "Output 3." (Given the prices, you could order 2 each of the balanced and unbalanced 3-way splitters, then resell whatever you don't use.)

The other advice here is good on specific cabling and what not. I'm going to give my somewhat ghetto homeowner approach.

Your goal here is to have everything work right. A digital device (whether it's a TV box or your cable modem) is generally going to be more picky about signal quality than an analog device. Each split, unless put through a powered splitter, will somewhat degrade the signal. Therefore you want to have as few splitters as possible before any important devices (like your cable modem). All else being equal shoot for that, but don't kill yourself at first trying to perfect it.

If you hook up everything and it works, don't worry about it. If you have any questions or concerns, you can usually use your cable modem as a poor man's signal tester. You can plug it into the coax, then plugin your computer into the ethernet jack and visit the cable modem's diagnostic page and see the exact signal quality. Your TV or cable boxes may also do this. For example I have an HD Home Run prime as my main cable box and the diagnostic page displays this for me:

• Signal Strength 100% (2.6 dBmV)
  
• Signal Quality 88% (27.3 dB)
  
  I ended up having some issues when I installed my HD Home Run so I bought this powered splitter for like $45 and have been flawless ever since.
  
  Bonus tip: Make sure your coax is grounded going into your house and also run it through a surge protector before it gets to your cable modem. $500 of fried home electronics taught me this lesson the hard way when lightning struck a puddle right next to my entrypoint into the house. After that I went whole hog and got one of these lightning protectors too

I have this HDMI splitter, which bypasses the HDCP, but apparently OREI has updated it and it now is HDCP compliant. Search around on Amazon, YouTube, or even here on reddit for a splitter that is not HDCP compliant. They definitely exist, it's just a matter of finding the right one. I use mine with an elgato game capture HD, and it works flawlessly. I'd say that's your best bet...who knows when Sony will patch it, it could be months if ever. Good luck dude.

Thank you for the response! They are different native resolutions but I have changed in the settings for them to be the same to combat this issue. It still didn't fix it. Even if the monitor is plugged into the splitter by itself it is a black screen. If I plug in my TV to the splitter by itself it works fine. Also my 3 Asus monitors all work fine when plugged into the splitter (either by themselves or with the TV also). I was talking with a few other people and the predictions were:
> I suspect it is a color space issue. DVI only supports RGB color space. HDMI supports RGB and YPbPr. RGB is what computer monitors use and YPbPr is what TV's usually use. If the PC is outputting YPbPr for the TV and the monitor is only able to get RGB, well it may not be able to display the signal.

> It's a chipset issue with the Samsung monitor not being able to interpret the YPbPr color space, even though it is only about 7-8 years old.

> The computer may use drivers to support the output to that monitor and when it's plugged into the splitter it is no longer receiving driver support.

I contacted the company OREI and they said:
> Thank you for contacting us. You'll have this issue with the HD-102 when you are connecting two different display types (TV and Monitor). You won't have this issue if both are monitors or both are TV. In this case, we recommend the OREI HDS-102 which supports EDID selection.

So now my question is which of these issues is it actually?

OREI believes that if I return the splitter I have HD-102 and get HDS-102 that my problem will be solved. Any other opinions?

There's a setting on the Xbox that has to go directly to the TV app on startup. That may help your wife come to like it better (aside from the longer time it takes for the console to cold boot.) If she doesn't touch the Xbox remote, and only used the TV remote, there's a good chance she'd never see any Xbox One UI.
Anyway, I too wanted the flexibility of having a "TV only" experience, as well as an "Xbox One with TV too" experience. So last week I got a HDMI splitter from Amazon, for $20, to solve this exact problem: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B008D66RAU/ref=pe_385040_127745480_TE_item

It works perfectly.

This used to be possible with Windows Media Center and a CableCARD PC adapter such as the InfiniTV 4.

https://www.engadget.com/2010/03/30/ceton-infinitv-4-cablecard-tuner-review/

In the setup outlined above, you plug the cable from the wall directly into the device and you can schedule DVR, record to your heart's content and store recorded media on an external HDD if needed all through Windows Media Center. The advantage being you don't have to worry about your DVR box filling up and if you want to keep recorded content, you can move it onto a different storage device if you like. I love recording sporting events to watch later, for example, and when VCRs went away, this method was very helpful.

Unfortunately Microsoft phased Windows Media Center out of later operating systems and it's completely missing from Windows 10. I guess they'd rather you just keep paying that extra $15/month for a stupid DVR cable box.

I mention all of that to counter the previous poster's point about legality. It's not illegal to record shows for your personal enjoyment off of your legally obtained cable access.

As to your original question - yes. Run your HDMI through a powered HDMI splitter such as this one to bypass HDCP encryption and it should work just fine. If it's for personal use, this should be perfectly legal. If it's for uploading to some sort of bay that is loosely associated with Captain Hook and his cohorts, then probably not so much.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004F9LVXC/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Thank you! Very helpful reply. I've just started reading up on this sub, and it seems like a MoCA is a better implementation of a powerline. Actually, it sounds exactly like a powerline, except that instead of using the house's electrical wiring, the MoCA uses the coax connection. Am I understanding the technology correctly?

I do have one coax output in my room (where desktop 1 is located) which goes straight to the modem. This room is also where the router is located.

In the living room, I do have another coax output for where the cable box for the TV should go. Since I've currently cut the cord, we stream TV from the Xfinity app, and I've returned the cable box. This means I do have a coax cable free in the living room.

What I can do is connect a MoCA in the living room, and use my existing wifi extender to broadcast a signal from the MoCA.

Additionally, I can also get a small unmanaged switch (maybe 2-3 ports) and use that to directly hardwire the playstation that is sometimes used for video streaming! The MoCA to switch shouldn't have too many issues, right?

Are there any MoCAs that you'd recommend? Amazon has quite a few.

I'm also seeing a MoCA filter.. However, I do not have access to the exterior cabling, so would this be of any use to me?

I have Eeros and am a big fan, but it sounds like you need some hardwired connections. One option that worked well for me was using the preinstalled coax cable in my last apartment. Every room seemed to have coax hookups, and I could run it over the same coax that spectrum was running my internet connection on.

What you'd want is a MoCA adapter (or really, at least 2, one per end) to inject ethernet over coax and then pull it off elsewhere in the house. Had 450Mbps at my Xbox 2 floors away from the modem, and an eero beacon on the other side of the room for wifi devices.

I used these from Amazon with great success. You'd also want to put a high-pass filter on the incoming connection from the street to keep your network private.

As for wiring it up: Modem <--> Eero <--> MoCA <--> Coax Cable (the same one the internet was going to the modem on) <--> MoCA (in another room on a different floor) <--> switch <--> TV, Xbox, Receiver, etc. And the filter on the coax splitter outside coming from the street.

yeah I don't see why it wouldn't work. you might not need an HDMI splitter if you're using an xbone.. I'm not 100% sure but you might be able to disable the HDCP in your settings somewhere. I know you can on ps4.

idk if mlbtv does 60 fps so you might not be able to do that, but I'm pretty sure it would work otherwise. if you need an HDMI splitter, heres an Amazon link to the one I use.

edit to add: just a thought but you might be able to just use something like OBS to record.. like in your PC browser or something lol. I'm just telling you what I use but I know there's people that do all this stuff without using a PVR. maybe check in with some of the giffers on /r/soccer and /r/nba.

If you can't run an ethernet cable directly, MoCA is usually your best bet. Other options include ethernet over powerline or wireless (but both of those are less reliable than MoCA). Ethernet cables can also run a pretty decent distance (~300ft), so you could look at whether running the cable up through the attic and back down (along the same path as the coax) is an option.

Yes, you will need 2 MoCA adapters. On both sides, they convert ethernet<->coax. So on the router side you'll plug the moca ethernet port into your router and you'll have a bit of a loop: Coax->Modem->Router->MoCA Adapter->Coax. On the office side it'll just be coax->ethernet.

It's also often recommended to get a MoCA filter, something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Filter-MoCA-Cable-Coaxial-Networking/dp/B00DC8IEE6. Install this device as the first thing on the cable that enters your house. It's designed to filter out the MoCA signal so that your network doesn't travel up the cable and into your neighbor's houses. You want your MoCA network to be active on all the coax within your house, but not leak out past that.

One final small note is that MoCA works as more than just a point-to-point network. If you have more rooms to connect that have coax, you can just add adapters and they'll all join the same network.

Here's a youtube video that covers moca pretty well: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rhCaZqxVAJE

I have a similar problem to yours but instead of a PS4, it's a PC. Basically, I have 2 monitors and I like to switch one monitor from PC to switch and viceversa and my monitors only have DVI and VGA ports. This obviously sucks because I can't switch the monitor output from DVI to HDMI which would have helped a lot instead of the setup i got. I do however got a speaker set that does allow for multiple inputs, so that will work great with my switch and PC in theory. I have a discrete audio card, you should be fine unless you want to route the sound from the PS4 using TOSLINK (I do believe it has one).

So, all I can tell you from my experience... before you buy something like this, is that you do check that the device will let you add an HDMI to DVI converter to the end. In my case (the one I linked) it did not work. I wouldn't get a signal working out with the adapter... shocking i know, because it even says that it won't work with a passive HDMI to DVI adapter on the amazon listing. Anyway, I kind of lucked out because I had bought a capture card in the past and all I have to do is route it to my capture card and use the passthrough function of it (which essentially rebuilds the HDMI stream? I have no idea). I can then use my HDMI-DVI adapter and it works perfectly. The caveat though is that my PC has to be on while I'm playing. Which isn't much a deal because I actually use both most of the time.

But anyway, you obviously shouldn't be buying a capture card for this (unless that's what you want, then the above setup should work fine?), if you do end up buying something like I linked (2+ hdmi switchs with audio extractors) and it doesn't let you use the adapter for HDMI to DVI for your monitor then you can probably get something like this. I haven't test it out so I can't tell if it'll work but it should be doing the same that my capture card is doing. Obviously, it would be best if you could get a 2+ hdmi switch to DVI with audio extractor but there's none i could find.

If you do end up with a setup similar to mine, know this:

1. You'll end up with 2 devices that need their own power supply and both of them will be on while you play.
   
2. You'll need a considerable amount of hdmi cables (I'm terrible at cable management)
   
3. When there's no source detected the switch will be actively searching for a HDMI signal and that somehow prevents monitors/TV sleeping functions. I think it will depend on your monitor and hdmi switch but in my case I have to turn off the monitor connected to the switch when i'm not using it.
   
   And at last, with the amount of money you'll spend on a speaker setup, hdmi cables, passive adapters and the HDMI shenanigans you can probably just buy a 30" inch smart tv for like $100 bucks. Hell, I'm sure you could find old as hell gigantic hdmi tvs for $100 or less. My step dad couldn't get rid of his old as hell 55" tv and had to actually pay money to get rid of it.

• Yes I made sure each smart tv does in fact have ethernet ports to connect to. So I am good there. The tech guy really confused me when I asked him if my hypothetical setup would be sufficient which is how I found this sub lol. He mentioned the installed booster might conflict things???
  
• Switch description states "Gigabit Ethernet Easy Smart Switch."
  
• The Moca I linked states in the description as bonded. I asked him if the moca filter would be necessary as well. He just shrugged at me.
  
  
• Which would you think to be the more ideal setup - switch or moca?

I have a channel and my setup works for my ps4. First, gonna need a recorder. I use a hauppage hd pvr 2. They've gotten newer ones since. The thing is you will need to bypass hdcp. They have a method that turns off hdcp but i don't know how well it works. The ps4 function only works for 15 minute chunks. For audio i use my phone and mic. I think the hauppauge official program works, but my laptop isn't beefy enough.

For the bypass is use a powered splitter i got off amazon.

This is the splitter i use. Super easy and works fine. Have had 0 issues with it. Hope this helps.

Awesome. Thanks for the reply, so using this card looks like it would be better to build my own capture DVR rather than using the haupauge pvr?

So I'd essentially build a small efficient pc running Linux, add the colossal 2 as hdmi input and then use the ir blaster with the scheduler to change channels.

Would this pc need anything else other than a cheap motherboard/cpu/memory/hdd/psu and colossal 2 capture card?

Edit: quick hit of research says I would also need this? http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004F9LVXC/ref=pd_aw_fbt_147_img_2?ie=UTF8&refRID=15JKGZ2G9EX913KRTHQT

Here is a 1 to 2(cable box to two componets) splitter http://www.amazon.com/dp/B004F9LVXC/ref=sr_ph?ie=UTF8&qid=1408799072&sr=1&keywords=hdmi+splitter. Works great. My girlfriend used to complain about everything going through the xbox but I still wanted the xbox TV feature to work and this little puppy made both of us happy. Good luck.

Sure thing fam!

USB 2.0 16 ft - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006LFL4X0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

USB 3.0 15 ft - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AA0U08M/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

HDMI cable 10ft - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01CRA11IU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1

HDMI Repeater - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M02Z4FU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The good news is with a repeater you can just use a regular HDMI cable and not an extension with male/female connectors. I only bought an extra cable because all the ones I had lying around were only 6ft or so and I wanted longer.

I had some crackling in the audio the first time I connected the headset with extensions but hasn't been any since then (not sure if I had/have it on 2.0 or 3.0 for the headset which would be the culprit since HDMI is only for the video portion and USB carries audio).

Like I said - all of these are working on my current setup. Motherboard is an MSI Z97-G45 Gaming with my 4790k and running a 1080 ti GPU. Monitors are on display port so am fortunately able to run this directly from the GPU's open HDMI slot.

I also use an Acer Predator Helios 300 laptop and the extensions all work with it as well so hopefully you have good results!

Look into an "HDMI splitter". It's a box that takes one video input and duplicates it into several outputs. I did some review reading, and this is the best one I could find. If you need another HDMI cable, you can get one from Amazon Basics on the cheap.

Also, thank you! I hope you have a wonderful Thanksgiving, too!

gofanco Prophecy Intelligent 4K 60HZ HDR 1x4 HDMI 2.0 Splitter

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079HN327D?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

This is what I use with my HD60 Pro.
I also use a 4K switch in conjunction with it but I think this is the most cost effective way to solve your problem.
Took a chance on it and it works like a dream.

To answer your question though, the setup you described in your post would work as well if you want to buy a 4k60

I bought this splitter to use with my 4K OLED TV and my crappy 1080p monitor in my office, works flawlessly. The advantage of this splitter is it can simultaneously display HDR 4K image on my TV and 1080p on my monitor. Their support team was also great helping resolve an issue and called me for support.

gofanco Prophecy Intelligent 4K... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079HJWF31?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Does the Frontier modem have built-in MoCA capabilities by any chance? I had a similar situation in a three story townhome. Each room had coax, and instead of running Ethernet to each of the floors, I utilized a MoCA adapter to provide internet connectivity to the rooms over coax, since each room was already wired for coax. The cable modem provided by Comcast had built-in MoCA capabilities, so all I had to do was ensure all of the coax outlets were on the same splitter, and add a MoCA Ethernet adapter on the other floor to extend network connectivity to my office. Below is my current setup.

[Outside Incoming Coax]
|
[Coax splitter in the Attic]
| -> (Cable modem on 2nd floor) <-> den switch
| -> (MoCA adapter on 1st floor <-> office switch

However, if the Frontier cable modem doesn’t have built-in MoCA capabilities, then you’ll need a second MoCA adapter to terminate the MoCA connection at both ends:

[Outside Coax]
|
[Splitter]
| -> (Coax Outlet #1) -> MoCA Adapter -> Frontier Cable Modem -> switch/router
| -> (Coax Outlet #2) -> MoCA Adapter -> Ethernet Switch

I recommend this kit: “Actiontec Bonded MoCA 2.0 Ethernet to Coax Adapter, 2 Pack (ECB6200K02)” https://www.amazon.com/dp/B013J7O3X0/

You’ll also want to install a MoCA filter on the outside incoming coax line so the MoCA network demarc terminates there and doesn’t extend outside of the home: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DC8IEE6/

Hope it works out! Let me know if that doesn’t make sense, and feel free to PM with questions.

First, I would suggest this MoCA adapter. Cheaper and Motorola generally makes reliable equipment.

Motorola MOCA Adapter for Ethernet over Coax, 1,000 Mbps Bonded 2.0 MoCA (Model MM1000) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B077Y3SQXR/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_8lL4AbTZQGZ04

Second, you just need to make sure the coax line your modem is hooked up to is split somewhere and also connected to the room you want the other adapter to be. You'll also want to purchase a MoCa filter to keep your MoCa in and block any other outside MoCa that others may not have blocked on their own.

Filter, MoCA "POE" Filter for Cable TV Coaxial Networking ONLY https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DC8IEE6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_qoL4AbWDKZV5D

You'll just need one on the input cable to your home. Best outside where the exterior cable line meets your interior cable line.

I work for a cable company that uses MoCa extensively and I'm a huge fan of it. I've seen MoCa give 200-300 mb consistently using MoCa 2.0. Next best thing to straight Ethernet.

Buy a capture card and stick with elgato or the HDPvr. Depends on what type of computer you have which is best.
I've heard elgato is best on macs and HDPvrs are better with windows.
Also.... you WILL need an HDMI splitter that will filter out the HDCP that Ps3 has to prevent recording in HD or else you'll have to hook up through component and your quality will suffer.
Supposedly THIS one is the best and eliminates HDCP totally so you can hook up HDMI from PS3 to splitter, HDMI to capture device, then HDMI to laptop/pc and to the TV.
Personally, I have the HDPvr Rocket which is portable and can capture on the fly. You can hook it up hard wired or record freestanding to a SD Card. Its THIS one.

Ok, if that is the case then I am stumped. I don't know of a good way to repeat an HDMI signal over 3 TV simultaneously. I very quickly looked it up and found this on amazon. Not sure if would work or not.

This may be a better question for a home theater sub. I'm pretty good with the cordcutter side of things but not so much with this. Also, If the WAF (MAF) is really really important I might lean toward roku over firetv. I MUCH prefer the firetv (kodi) but from what I've seen it does need a little more of a technical touch than the roku.

Sorry, I wish I could help more.

I'm out of town for the weekend but I'm pretty sure I have this exact one.

https://www.amazon.com/HD-102-Powered-Splitter-Certified-Support/dp/B005HXFARS

I have my cable box -> splitter -> Xbox HDMI in. I've had this splitter for at least 3 years. I originally got it when I was in college so I could have an awesome man cave. Found out later that it strips the hdcp and allowed me to stream my cable TV to my windows tablet from my xbox. Heres a link for a little more info on hdcp stripping.

http://www.tweaking4all.com/home-theatre/remove-hdcp-hdmi-signal/

Since the PSTV has HDCP, you'll need a splitter that supports HDMI 1.3. But here are links to the capture card and splitter I use.

Capture Card - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00K5A8FP2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Splitter - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004F9LVXC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I do realize that the splitter is no longer available directly from Amazon, but from sellers, but I still direct people to this, specific model, as I've heard stories from other people having issues with HDMI 1.3 splitters aside from this one. Just note that any splitter SHOULD work as long as it supports HDMI 1.3.

And the drivers for the capture card. I use the ones set for the GL310.

http://www.avermedia.com/gaming/download/lgp_lite

Only advice is to always make sure your mic is plugged in before launching the capture card's software to make sure you don't start commentary on the stream and realize your mic isn't working with the software. And toggle the volume settings in the application itself for a good balance so the game's volume doesn't overbear your own mic voice.

That sounds awesome bro. I am using the Elgato HD capture run through an HDMI Splitter, for some reason that lets me use the HDMI cable instead of the cable they provide ;). I used Final Cut Pro X for the editing, made the spinning logo via Motion 5 and encoded it for YouTube with Compressor 4. I love making these videos and and currently working on some sweet animations for the crew. We have to talk so we can plan some things, you know as I do, the more footage you have the better. Hit me up.

Yes correct two screens , one is 4k the other is 1080 , switching form one to the other, for single player games 4k is great but for anything online and competitive I rather have best performance 1080p with 60fps rather then 30 and the lowest input lag, just trying to find something that’s not having me to disconnect and connect cables back and fourth, I did come up on this now, they say it’s possible to have 1 source (end of HDMI cable coming from PS4 pro) then one out let from device is 4k the other will be in 1080.

Thing is I also like to free up the second screen so I can be browsing , watching sports between matches , and little brakes.

https://www.amazon.com/gofanco-Prophecy-Intelligent-60Hz-Splitter/dp/B079HJWF31/ref=pd_gwm_psimh_0?pf_rd_s=blackjack-experiment-1&pf_rd_t=Gateway&pf_rd_i=mobile&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pd_rd_wg=aZIWz&pd_rd_r=5RTSPE14A1VK2D3B2F0Z&pd_rd_w=67nTK&pf_rd_r=RQVP9YNAWKJNE0TX5DCQ&pf_rd_p=db8e741f-3a25-4908-9938-1cabe21e7102&pd_rd_i=B079HJWF31

OK, I really tried to do the Dropbox thing but I failed miserably ... and I suck at Reddit formatting, so please excuse me but I appreciate your help and expertise.

POE Filter can be found here: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DC8IEE6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

That is on the line right as it gets into the house.

That goes into an Antronix 3 way splitter 5-1002MHz
Model #: CMC2003BH-A
Each output shows -5.58dB out

Output 1: Home Phone/Kitchen TV (Non Tivo Connected)
Antronix FRA1-1510 Forward/Return amplifier/Splitter to get my home phone to work, One of the two Coax cables goes to power the modem for the home phone, the other for the non-TiVo TV

Output 2: CommScope 2 way splitter Model SV-2G 5-1002MHz one goes to the guest bedroom where we previously had the other Mini and it worked fine (one we moved to basement) and the other goes to the Master Bedroom where a Mini that works fine currently is

Output 3: Same two way splitter as Output 2. One goes to the cable modem I provided details for above and the other goes to the Tuning Adapter Model Cisco STA 1520

Here is a problem ... in doing all of this I realized I can't trace back the coax to the basement one that is having issues, but hopefully with all of the information I have provided maybe some steps can be taken to alleviate that.

THANK YOU THANK YOU THANK YOU!

you are on the right track for sure. all you need is that video capture card and this is the most highest recommended HDCP splitter. I bought a cheap hdmi splitter that didn't do the job right and this one worked a treat.

this thing and the capture card is all you should need
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004F9LVXC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

best of luck

> I honestly don't mind playing them on the LCD

Yeah, a lot of people here do seem to mind (though getting "raged and flamed to hell" isn't usually something that happens in this sub), but I'm right there with ya. I've actually got 8 different systems (both old and new) hooked up to a nice LCD computer monitor I was given for Christmas (specifically a Dell UltraSharp 2405FPW, along with the optional soundbar), and it does a wonderful job IMHO, despite being over a decade old (these things came out around 2005 or so, I think). I just wish my Sega Genesis still worked (video output died somehow, so I'm using one of those crappy FireCore things for now), and I need to get a composite cable for my SNES... :/

Anyways, this UltraSharp is a 16:10 monitor (1920x1200), so it's decent for both widescreen and standard systems; the 16:9 systems have about an inch of letterboxing on top and bottom while the 4:3 systems similarly only have about an inch of pillarboxing on the left and right. It also can pivot into a portrait view, which is interesting. Haven't used that yet, but it might be cool for certain arcade SHMUPs (my Wii is hacked, so I can run some of those in an emulator)...

It also has a ton of different inputs, though it's missing HDMI. Luckily, HDMI and DVI use the same digital video format, so I just use a straight HDMI-to-DVI cable for my PS4 (and a USB audio adapter for plugging in the soundbar, so I don't have to worry about splitting out and converting the HDMI's digital audio to analog). Unfortunately, though, this particular monitor does not have HDCP support, so the media apps (YouTube, CrunchyRoll, etc) and the BluRay playback won't work on the PS4. I may get one of these things to bypass HDCP eventually...

All that said, my setup isn't nearly as organized as yours (shown here using the monitor's "picture-beside-picture" mode, playing PSO in my Wii on the right while studying this chart in the PS4's internet browser on the left. Apologies for potato-quality camera, lol). Part of that is due to space constraints, though -- I live with my sister, and keep my game systems in my bedroom so she can watch TV in the living room while I'm gaming... :P

You will not be able to use the capture card to play your PS4 on your computer at any playable latency. When you plan on hardware capturing a device you will need to take the splitter, run 1 output to the capture card(this will allow you to send video to your stream) and 1 output to your monitor(hdmi to DVI cables are a beauty and only a couple bucks) and as long as you are using a device w/o HDCP forced on(read as PS3) you are good to go. I personally use a 4x4 monoprice matrix switch that allows me to have 4 input devices then run any combo of those to 4 different outputs (monitor, capture card, TV and a free one). I also have more than 1 input as well. If you want to go back and forth between your TV and don't mind rerunning cables, just snag a viewport 1x2 splitter (side note this also strips HDCP if you ever need it) and a cable and run swap out the plug that goes to your monitor for an HDMI for your TV.

Have you tried adding any reflectors to the back of your homemade antennas? Have you tried a pre-amp? I am no where near as lucky as you with the strength of available OTA channels in my area, so I have been doing a great deal of testing of antenna theory to see what might work to provide me with quality feeds of the available channels without having to hang an antenna on the side of my house. I noticed two things in my testing so far, reflectors ma a huge difference when signals are weak and the right preamp will stabilize sketchy feeds. A pre-amp may be all you need based on your TV fool report. I bought one on Amazon for $24. https://www.amazon.com/Bi-Directional-Amplifier-Splitter-Booster-Passive/dp/B001BMKNZI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1465592775&sr=8-1&keywords=2-Port+Bi-Directional+Cable+TV+HDTV+Amplifier+Splitter+Signal+Booster+with+Passive+Return+Path


I also tested a home built Gray-Hoverman with a mig-shift reflector (center divider to a large dog kennel) which only covered the majority of the height of the elements (not all of the height) and it out performed a straight out of the box Channelmaster CM-4221 for some frequency ranges when tested outside. I then modified the CM-4221 by switching out the center two whisker bays to a longer 9 3/4" length of whisker. This modification out performed my GH. Neither performed well inside my house as is. I added a pre-amp to both, and the GH outperformed the Channelmaster. My next step is to improve the reflector design on the GH to something bigger that allows full coverage of the elements to see if I can improve the inside channel options even more.

I bought this one to use with my PS3:

https://www.amazon.com/HD-102-Powered-Splitter-Certified-Support/dp/B005HXFARS/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1478808828&sr=8-1-fkmr0&keywords=Orei+HD-102+1x2+1+Port+HDMI+Powered+Splitter+Ver+1.3+Certified+for+Full+HD+1080P+and+3D+Support+One+Input+to+Two+Outputs+%28Black%29

Worked like a charm when I did extra life. Hope it helps! :)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008EQ4BQG/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

These are the ones I have. I put them in myself. They were pretty easy to install. You go to the modem, and disconnect the coax going into the modem. Plug the coax from the wall into the moca adapter in. Then plug the moca adapter coax out cord into the modem in. Your router should be already hooked up then you just plug an ethernet cable from your router to the moca adapter.

Then on the other end, where you want the internet, you just plug the other moca adapter into the coax, and an ethernet cable from your moca adapter to the computer. Sounds complicated, but was really pretty easy to hook up. I did have some problems where they stopped working a couple of times. I think it was related to the fact that if you don't have a terminating filter the signal can go out of your house, I got one of these:

https://www.amazon.com/Filter-MoCA-Cable-Coaxial-Networking/dp/B00DC8IEE6/ref=pd_bxgy_147_img_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00DC8IEE6&pd_rd_r=KV9MW2G56NMKNDZY9FD9&pd_rd_w=Kicrs&pd_rd_wg=BnTIO&psc=1&refRID=KV9MW2G56NMKNDZY9FD9

And plugged it in in my outside cable box and they have worked trouble free for me since October 2015. I like very much not having to depend on wifi

It all depends on how strong your signal is. Each time you split it, you lose power (some lost in the splitter, some goes one way, some goes the other).

They are all home-runs to a single 9-way splitter?

You'll likely need to get an amplifier as the signal from an antenna is usually weaker than than from a cable feed. I can't seem to find 10-way splitters (which makes sense... it's splitting it in half each time 2-4-8) Here's an 8-way that looks reasonable. Here's a slightly more expensive one with a higher gain and a metal case. You could probably use a passive 2-way splitter before this to get your 9th port successfully. Make sure if you have any unused ports that you slap a terminator on the end of it.

If you can mount the antenna on the exterior of the house it will give you much better reception than in an attic. I was able to reuse an old Dish Network mount on my house, but that will all depend on where you have clean line-of-sight to the tower. Higher mounts and bigger antennas equal more signal. If you're marginal you may also be able to use a preamp to help pull the channels in.

The fact that it was possible to move the modem/router means that you probably have Coaxial cables run throughout the house. This is a very good thing. What you need are MoCA adapters, they basically let you run Ethernet over Coaxial cables. This is the one to get, also available in pairs. At the very least, you'll need one where the modem/router is currently located and another upstairs where it used to be located.

At the modem/router, you'll disconnect the Coaxial cable from the modem/router and connect it to the input of the 2-way splitter that comes with the MoCA adapter. Then connect the Coax In port of the adapter to one of the splitter's outputs, and the modem/router to the other. Finally, connect the MoCA adapter's Ethernet port to one of the router's LAN ports.

Upstairs, where the modem/router used to be, simply connect the existing Coaxial cable to the Coax In port of the MoCA adapter. Connect the adapter's Ethernet port to an access point, such as this one.

That's the basic setup, but you can take it much farther. You can add a MoCA adapter anywhere else you have a Coaxial cable connection. In any room where you have a Coaxial connection and stationary devices on Wi-Fi (PCs, game consoles, TVs etc) you should add a MoCA adapter and gigabit switch, then connect those devices to the switch. This gets them off Wi-Fi, so in addition to giving them perfectly reliable connections it speeds up the Wi-Fi for the devices (phones, tablets, laptops) that actually need it.

Oh, one last thing you need: a MoCA filter. This goes at your cable's point of entry to your house, before the first splitter, and prevents your MoCA network from going outside your house and potentially being accessible from other nearby houses.

It's done using a Distribution Amplifier (DA). Basically one source in many out. The DA that stores use may be out of your price range. I think what you are looking for is a Coax Distribution Amplifier. They still make them but unless you buy a really good one you will introduce a lot of noise in to the signal reducing the picture quality on all the other TVs.

I use Extron in my installs when I need to send video to many endpoints, but that brand is not sold in stores, only by distributors, but you might be able to pick it up on line. Another issue is coax is not a connection I deal with anymore. It's all DV over twisted pair, meaning video over Ethernet basically, but it is a dedicated run of wire, you cannot send internet over it at the same time. This will send an HDMI signal over 100 feet over standard cat5

If you want more detail on how all this stuff works let me know.

[EDIT] Here is one on Amazon that will give you an idea of what to look for. It not only splits the signal it amplifies it too. $38

Is your TV even a HDTV? Please tell us you're not one of THOSE people, that has a HDTV set and a digital cable box, but connects them using a coaxial cable so all you ever see is standard definition (yes, unfortunately there are people like that).

In any case, your problem is that the coaxial cable output (the one labelled CABLE OUT) is standard definition analog NTSC, which is neither "Digital ATSC" nor "Digital QAM". You need to be connecting the cable that comes INTO the cable box (the one currently connected to the CABLE IN connector) to your WinTV. Then, scanning one or the other of those should work PROVIDED you are in an area where not all cable channels are scrambled. If that works, then you need to get a cable splitter (looks like https://www.amazon.com/Premium-Coaxial-Splitter-Bidirectional-Communications/dp/B00NE0G23W) and run the cable into the input on that, then connect the two outputs to your cable box and to your digital tuner.

However if you still can't scan anything, it means you either hooked it up incorrectly, or your cable system has no unencrypted channels. In any case, if you want to receive encrypted channels, you will either need a tuner that supports a cable card (and that assumes you can still get a cable card from your cable company, since I have heard they are being phased out), or you will need to be content with the free unencrypted channels (if any). Or, you could put up a TV antenna and run that into your tuner card to get your local channels, then use a streaming device such as a Roku to watch content from pay channels (but for that you would need a HDTV; I don't think most streaming devices have a coaxial output).

And for crying out loud, if you have a HDTV, then before you do anything else get a HDMI cable to connect the cable box to the TV, so you can enjoy true high definition!

I specifically know about the MoCA protocol devices but I imagine DECA and HPNA works the same or in a similar way too. Below video shows someone connecting multiple DECA transceivers together to create a bridge.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1xuAiP_qcUs

Note, I connected 3 MI424WR devices together which all use the same MoCA protocol. The protocols are not compatible with each other and if you choose a specific device with a specific protocol, you better stick with that protocol on future devices or it won't work. I chose the MI424WR as I had one already with my FiOS install so I decided to buy 2 more on eBay for my TV's when I cut the cord. Keep in mind, you don't need FiOS to have these routers/transceivers work in your home. I do recommend getting a MoCA filter and connecting it to where your cable comes into your house/apartment.

https://www.amazon.com/Filter-MoCA-Cable-Coaxial-Networking/dp/B00DC8IEE6

There are multiple versions of the MoCA protocol. MoCA 1.0 has a speed of 100Mbps, 1.1 is 175 Mbps, 2.0 is 500 Mbps, and bonded 2.0 is 1Gbps. Devices are backwards compatible and will slow itself down if there are any lesser devices on the MoCA network. YMMV due to the type/length/condition of coax wiring ran through the house. My coax going through the house is older (I believe RG59). This along with other factors unknown to me, the speed my routers report is around 220 Mbps throughput. This isn't the magic number 500Mbps or 1Gbps but its still fast enough for me to stream my DirecTV Now and Youtube without any buffering issues simultaneously on multiple TVs which is good enough for me.

** More information on MoCA Standards
https://www.actiontec.com/wifihelp/wifibooster/difference-moca-1-0-1-1-2-0-bonded-2-0/

This is what worked for me. Prior to purchasing anything, do a little research and see what makes sense for your setup.

Don't listen to these other people telling you it wont work. It will, its just hit and miss. the splitter you bought is not one that is known to scramble the HDCP signal. This one had yeilded better results if you can I say return the one you bought and try the viewHD one. what you've got to do is connect one output to ElgatoHD60 and one to your tv. so a flow chart would be like:

PS3->HDMI Splitter Input

HDMI Splitter Output 1-> TV

HDMI Splitter Output 2 -> Elgato HD60

This should be enough to scrable the HDCP signal but like I said it is hit and miss.

Edit: I've re read your post it sounds like you are only using one output. for the splitter to work you must use both outputs. I suggest you try my flowchart with your current splitter before returning and purchasing another one. To make it a but more clear, you will need a total of THREE (3)
HDMI cables for the splitter to work.

I don't know if this helps, but I wanted to be pro-active prevent this from being an issue. I wired my house with multiple RG6 (CAT6 as well) and all that is ran back to a central point. As it was, I needed to have a quality splitter to share an OTA antenna between TVs (or cable should I every have it.) Instead I bought an amplifier splitter. This one is rated from 5-1000mhz. It's working for me, but also isn't remotely even needed as I only have it routed to 1 output but eventually will have 2 more. So if it truly helps, I just don't know yet.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000WDR94U/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Most retailers sell them, I can't point you to a specific one because I don't know where you are located in the world.

What you want is a coaxial bi-direction amplifier/splitter. You need one with a passive return path (that's where you connect the modem to). You can also use the more expensive active modem return models but only if your modem supports its (check if modems powerlevel (in dBmV) is higher then the splitter out puts) In your case I would recommend a passive one.

Here is one I found on amazon
And a cheaper one that lacks the surge protection

I assume that you have a coax splitter wherever the cable reaches your house. That might be in a box outside or somewhere inside the house. From this splitter, coax cables run to the various outlets in your house.

It looks like there is only one coax port on the TG1682G: https://fccid.io/UIDTG1682-3/External-Photos/External-Photos-2853842

This means that the MoCA communication signal is sent back out through the same coax wire that the DOCSIS signal providing your internet access comes in. MoCA would then travel back to the splitter and out to all coax outlets attached to that splitter. Hopefully the splitter doesn't block MoCA signals. If so, you'd need to replace it with one that allows them through. Ideally you'd add a MoCA filter to the coax coming into the house before it gets to the first splitter in order to prevent your internal MoCA data from leaving your home.

You would then use a single MoCA 2.0 adapter like the Motorola MM1000 in your home-office with the incoming coax connected to its Network coax plug and your ethernet devices (via a switch or wireless access point) connected to its ethernet plug.

You can feed 4K60 into the 4K60 Pro and stream/record at 1080p60. That's what I'd recommend anyways. Streaming at 4k is too tough on the PC hardware and requires insanely good internet to not only upload but on the viewer end, to watch.

You could also go with an HD60 Pro and get a cheaper hardware scaler, like this GoFanco Splitter and scaler.

I have personal experience with the GoFanco and can say this: It works. It will also accept an HDR signal but it DOES NOT convert HDR to SDR properly so you will be left with a washed out image. For all intents and purposes, it DOES NOT convert HDR to SDR.
I tested it with one output connected to a 4K Monitor, and another output to an HD60 S. The monitor received the Xbox One Xs 4K signal and the HD60 S got a scaled 1080p60 signal. The scaling is not the best quality, but its hard to tell from normal viewing distances or when encoding the gameplay for a video.

Hope this helps! -

SECTION | CONTENT

--|:--
Title | OREI HD-102 1x2 Port HDMI Splitter Unboxing!!! (Very Useful for HDCP Bypass)
Description | Unboxing the OREI HD-102 1x2 HDMI Splitter! Subscribe for More and hit that like button if you enjoy and want to see more! ►Purchase and OREI for Yourself: http://www.amazon.com/HD-102-Powered-Splitter-Certified-Support/dp/B005HXFARS ►BYPASS PS4 HDCP TUTORIAL: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e5bdbF_3VLM&list=UUvei6bzXOIdZLqiMLMGZDBg&feature=c4-overview Donate and Support the CS3Army Here!: Send Donations via Paypal to: johnhudgins955@gmail.com (Go to PayPal.com and Go to "Send Money" and send...
Length | 0:02:38






****

^(I am a bot, this is an auto-generated reply | )^Info ^| ^Feedback ^| ^(Reply STOP to opt out permanently)

Real CH2 and CH6 are down near the FM frequency range, your antenna won't even see those signals. Your signals are strong enough that an FM antenna would probably work and you don't need the amp. I'd get a FM folded dipole antenna (the T-type that you tack to the wall) like THIS and connect it to a Balun like THIS and then use a regular two-way coax splitter like THIS to combine the signals from the FM antenna and the 1ByOne into the TV/Tuner.

An HDMI matrix switcher is overkill, in my opinion.

If you want your PC connected to your TV as well as the two monitors, it would seem an HDMI Splitter would resolve that issue. Connect the HDMI cable going to your receiver to the input on the splitter, then one output to the receiver, the other to the HDMI capable monitor.

For the laptop, as was previously suggested, a "universal dock" with two monitor outputs will take care of your laptop, though you'd need to manually change the inputs on your monitors...

If you aren't familiar at all with how the coax is run in your house then I wouldn't worry about it and just get a MOCA filter. It's probably best practice overall anyways to go ahead and get one.

Here is a cheap one on Amazon with prime and free shipping https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00DC8IEE6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_M6jmDbVFF06WB

You can do a Google search alternatively for MOCA filters or check at a local Walmart or electronics store for them. This will connect at the Point-of-Entry to the residence where your ISP brings in their coax cable line to your house and before your modem.

My setup is very simple:
I normally stream capture from my PlayStation 3, PlayStation 4, Xbox 360 and Xbox One. I split my console(s) signal using this splitter. I then capture footage from my console(s) via a Black Magic Intensity Shuttle
For my audio I use a mixer. With a XLR Headset. All audio goes from my mixer to my Macbook Pro or PC using an XLR to USB audio adapter.
Camera is a Go Pro Hero 3+ Black Edition which is captured using a second Black Magic Intensity Shuttle. Its also pretty good with my chroma keying.

Exact same thing happened to me. Issue we had was our COAX splitters. We replaced any old splitters (i'm talking 5-10 y/o) with ones specifically meant for 2-way MoCA like these. Worked like a charm. Hopefully our root causes are similar!

Bro I am quiet sure that you need some sort of a power input as well to supply the sufficient signals to your desired display.
Something like this
https://www.amazon.com/HD-102-Powered-Splitter-Certified-Support/dp/B005HXFARS
This would act like an amplifier.

I wanted the Xbox to be hooked up to my monitor, and the television at the same time, but not have to plug and unplug the hdmi cords all of the time, so I bought this. It works wonderfully without any issues. It carries the same signal to both and plays on both simultaneously. After testing with an HTML stopwatch on the PC with the splitter (two outputs, one output to my monitor, other output to the splitter that split to a second monitor and tv) I've determined that it adds no input lag, so you don't have to worry about a delayed button press, reaction, etc.

Now I can game on the TV, or on the monitor if the wife is wanting to watch something in the same room, all without the hassle of having to set anything up.

I hope this answers your question.

I'm hoping so too, but I don't think we're gonna have anything to worry about. The one thing I am kinda worried about though is Sony's HDCP. I'm loving Elgato with my Xbox, but, since I'm switching to PS4, I really, really hope I don't have to use component instead of hdmi like people have to with the PS3 due to the HDCP DRM restrictions

And, btw, you should be able to output from the Xbox in 1080p, too. Not sure 720. It's in the settings. I can look if need be.

Edit: got this today and works with ps4.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005HXFARS/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

You don't want to put the output of the TV on your laptop...

You want to put the output of your cable box on your laptop. Depending on what kind of laptop you have you can use something like this, or here is a more intricate module.

Your TV displays a video signal, your cable box provides the video signal. If you're looking to keep your TV plugged in at the same time you can use something like this.

Hope this helps!

Yep....I gave you a link to a cheap one that takes care of the hdcp protection and is 4k compatible.

Also, I'm pretty sure the digital optical DOES support 7.1 through Dolby bitstream... but the HDMI definitely does carry 7.1 uncompressed

No, they aren't. Here's a BD-R drive for $60 - $15 promo code, DVD burners are $15, so they're $30 more than DVD drives nowadays. (e: PriceZombie says the low on that drive was $35 - so they're ~$20 more than DVD drives on sale).

As for HDCP - HDCP is in every GPU and monitor made in the last 5 years, even the low-end cheapie models. Trust me, I bottom feed hardware. If you're running Windows 7, odds are your hardware is recent enough to do what you need.

If you're upgrading Grandma's vintage Pentium 3, you can fix the display issue with a $25 HDCP stripper box. Or, dodge the whole hardware issue and find yourself some HDCP stripping software. I know there's AnyDVD HD as a commercial product ($70), and I'm sure there's some free alternative out there too if you're willing to futz around to make it work.

By dodging Bluray, you're saving yourself maaaaybe $100, best case. Most people are just saving the $30 on the drive. Once upon a time VHS tapes were cost-advantageous, too.

It really sounds more like you're outraged about HDCP existing...

Sure, you just need an HDMI splitter so that you can direct the same signal to two displays. Something like this should work. (I'm not recommending that one, it's just the first one I found.)

Just to be super clear, there's no "setting" to output signal from both HDMI ports on the Xbox One. One is for output, one is for pass-through. The only way to get output to two displays is to use a splitter.

I bought this about a month ago to record gameplay from my PS3 (it's the Super Slim model, don't know if that matters). It works pretty much flawlessly. You mentioned in another comment that you want to record PS1 games from your PS3. I don't know if you mean downloaded games or if you have one of the PS3's that supports PS1 discs. Either way, in theory, the device I linked to should work, as it's still bypassing the HDCP nonsense.

There are more expensive capture cards from Elgato and Avermedia that has a hdmi output that can be used to send to the tv but I will show you how on this capture card im selling.

1. Xbox HDMI to a hdmi splitter. an example this one https://www.amazon.com/HD-102-Powered-Splitter-Certified-Support/dp/B005HXFARS
   
   This splitter takes 1 hdmi input (from the xbox hdmi in this case) and has 2 outputs. Those 2 outputs will be the TV and capture card.
   
   
2. From the splitter, you will have two hdmi cables. One hdmi will go the TV like normal. The other hdmi will plug into the capture card.
   
   
3. Once those are hooked up. Plug the capture card into the PC or Laptop that your son uses. The drivers for the capture card should auto install in Windows. ( I cant confirm how it will work on Mac or Linux.)
   
   
4. Download the software OBS which can be found here https://obsproject.com/
   
   
5. In OBS, add Video Capture device and the capture card should show up.
   
   Bonus - The manual details what settings you should use in OBS to get it up and running.

Nah man, you can totally get them from Amazon or anywhere really. They're not marketed as stripping or even supporting HDCP, but many reviews mention they do, and it totally does.

There's a whole slew of very similar ones with slightly different casing. Here's an example: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005HXFARS/ If you shop around, you can find probably 5 other splitters that are nearly exactly the same form factor- I'd bet they're the same mass-produced board in china, and just tossed in different cases by different companies.

EDIT: Recent reviews for that particular one seem mixed. Some say it is fully HDCP compliant, and will not strip it, some say it still works perfectly.

I am pretty sure an HDMI splitter with mirror (that last "mirror" part is crucial) would work for you. This one is $15 on Amazon. It is able to send the same video signal to two monitors.

SOWTECH 1X2 HDMI Splitter Version 1.4 Full HD 1080P Powered HDMI Splitter 1 in 2 Out Support 3D for Duplicated/Mirror Dual Monitor https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CCMOMM0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_6V-3CbRHGHQ89

If you decide to go with an amplifier, here's the one I went with. I'm quite happy with it, and it's made of porcelain or some other robust material that can handle the heat. It's powered with an adapter that delivers through coax, so you can plug it in at a distance from the splitter if necessary. If you get it, or something like it, just remember to get the little terminators for any of the lines you're not going to connect.

There are basically three options for GameCube capture:

First option is HDMI. That will get you the best capture quality, but HDMI capture cards are expensive. The Insurrection Industries HDMI adapter for the GameCube that I linked earlier allows you to output both HDMI and S-Video/composite from the GameCube at the same time, so you can have the HDMI going to the capture card and the analog video going to your TV (since speedrunners typically prefer to use CRTs). You don't need a splitter with this setup, just the capture card, HDMI adapter, and an S-Video/composite cable to go to your TV. Now, if you do need/want to use an LCD instead of a CRT, you can either get an HDMI splitter or look for an HDMI capture card that has a passthrough output.

Second option is S-Video. This still looks pretty good if you set it up right with OBS's "retro" deinterlacing option, and it's quite a bit cheaper than HDMI capture. You need a capture card like the GV-USB2 I linked above, an S-Video cable, and a splitter so you can send the signal to both the capture card and your TV. Many CRT TVs have S-Video inputs, newer LCDs might not. You'll also need some male-to-male S-Video and audio cables to connect to the splitter.

Third option is composite video, but it looks really bad so I don't recommend it. Not much cheaper than S-Video anyway.

1. Are you using LGP livestream engine?
   
   
2. Component is shoddy on ps3 in the end I ended up buying a splitter which strips HDCP. I have only owned it about a week and it seems to work a treat, ca't common on longivty however, hoping it will last a long time. http://www.amazon.co.uk/ViewHD-Port-Powered-Splitter-1080P/dp/B004F9LVXC/ref=sr_1_36?ie=UTF8&qid=1397124298&sr=8-36&keywords=HDMI+splitter
   
   
3. If you need more help just reply :D

If you're planning to do PS3 over HDMI you can just get something like this to bypass the HDCP. It works perfectly well for me.

http://www.antennaweb.org/

It looks like you'll want a multi-directional, but this site will give you a recommendation for what type of antenna to get.

To do it right, you'll also want to just drop the money on the amplifier (like this) and powered splitter (like this) as well. You'll obviously get better reception outside, but mine seems to work just fine in the attic.

Quick edit: By the way, that site gives you the recommendation when you click on the station colored boxes that actually say the color in them.

It would be amazing to have a software solution to this.

At the moment I have to use a ps tv to capture game footage. It needs a special hdmi splitter that can strip the hdcp from the ps tv (this is the one I use in case anyone wants to do it too http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004F9LVXC/ ) and I feed that into a capture device (mine is a hd pvr2 but any capture device will do).

This is a good guide until we get something for the vita itself: https://www.reddit.com/r/VitaTV/comments/35zpfk/how_to_capture_video_with_a_pstv/

Other options I wonder is: What is your Internet provider?

If it is cable and you have other coax outlets in your house you should be able to move the modem with no problem. If you get TV from the same provider you should be able to buy a coax splitter to split the signal so that both your TV and your cable modem can still plug in.

In terms of the beacons I would definitely play with them to see where you get the best speed. You can use the app to determine how good the general signal is to the beacons and see which devices are connected to which eero. This way you can test the speeds at the different placements.

You are probably using too long cables for a passive splitter (the two you linked). How long are the cables? Even regular HDMI cables have issues if too long.

An active HDMI splitter (which has a power input to amplify the signal) would probably do what you need. This one has good reviews: https://smile.amazon.com/HD-102-Powered-Splitter-Certified-Support/dp/B00F5R9TNM/ref=sr_1_8?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1486654568&sr=1-8&keywords=hdmi%2Bsplitter&th=1


edit: though I would probably just do what SJC856 recommends (if you computer has multiple video outputs)

One thing you could try is installing cable amplifiers. I have two connections into my house and an amplifier on each. I wasn't getting service as bad as you are experiencing but mine definitely improved with the amplification. I couldn't find the ones I bought but these at Amazon looked about the same :

http://www.amazon.com/Bi-Directional-Amplifier-Splitter-Booster-Passive/dp/B001BMKNZI

What was happening? This sounds like it could be a HDCP issue. You can bypass most issues with one of these if anyone was wondering. Apple devices cause tons of these issues in conference rooms, especially when splitting signals. Good to know you saved the day!

the one "hardware" exception is you should make sure you have a MoCA filter at the edge of your house where your coax is... The MoCa configuration is by default set up without any encryption, you need a physical filter in line with your coax cable to "stop" it from going out beyond your own house back over where your cable comes in to your house. Otherwise your neighbors within 300' of that wire (or so) can buy a $12 device on Amazon to connect right to your network.

You can buy a MoCA filter on Amazon : https://www.amazon.com/Filter-MoCA-Cable-Coaxial-Networking/dp/B00DC8IEE6/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&qid=1540161311&sr=8-3&linkCode=as2&tag=model30f-20 -- just install this then where the coaxial comes in to your house, or if you have a place in your house with a splitter that you know you don't want beyond that or what not, on one side of that.


Which, as it turns out can work as a convenience to you as well if you're just wanting to extend your household network's wifi too... you can buy one of these for $12 : https://www.amazon.com/Actiontec-Dual-Band-Wireless-Extender-Ethernet/dp/B00FKTMWDE/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&qid=1540161554&linkCode=as2&tag=model30f-20& and connect it to the same coaxial cable your Layer3 is connected to; it will use the MoCa from your main layer3 to extend the network over that... and then it will broadcast its own wireless network from there (2.4 and 5ghz). I have set two of these up, one of them outside in a utility enclosure box.

Not sure if you are in the UK but I got this as I wanted a splitter to go to my capture card and have a direct input to the monitor to ensure the picture quality was good. In other words it is a one in two out splitter. https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00LM4IJ60/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Yeah I use my dvi port too and I only have 1 HDMI slot. I have been trying to do research to see if you can split it, using something like this: https://www.amazon.com/CNE86960-HDMI-Splitter-Amplifier-Display/dp/B0015YRMXI

But I do not know if it works. If someone can verify this, that would mean a lot. Maybe try posting a separate post on here and even Vive to see if someone has a product that works. Also happy cake day.

I understand, I am also digging for information to better understand what is going on myself.

For signal strength, I could increase it a bit using a different splitter to around -3.2 dBmV in the downstream, the upstream would be around 44.7 to 46.7 dBmV. Where I used to live the technician gave me an Extreme BDS102H, and where I am now the technician insisted I use a Commscope SV-3BG. I do not need a 3-way splitter though.

Awesome, thanks so much.

• Here is the [amplifier] (http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000WDR94U/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=242MTTOZCY9KC&coliid=IUQQXRAFKNF83&psc=1) I was looking at. (It says +4.5dB per port, I can't seem to find one that says 10dB)
  
  
• Here is the [cable] (http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0069F4H3G/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=242MTTOZCY9KC&coliid=I1HOLBLATFE159).
  
  The cable would come in and split off directly to the modem and then to the splitter.

Not quite a "you broke it we fix it", but I can't figure out what I need to record 1080p from my PS3. It's supposed to be possible with some technical-loophole magic, right? I just can't figure out what I gotta get! I use an HDPVR2.

EDIT: I chose the wrong term/phrasing. Allow me to correct:

What do I need to record from HDMI on PS3?

I already did some research and I think I've gotten my answer. For those interested, it seems like you really just need an HDMI splitter that can circumvent the HDCP engrained in the PS3. There are a few of them, and two of them I've seen recommended are:

This one.

and

This one.

see that splitter has 11db of loss which kinda sucks

I think like every 3.4db of loss is reducing the power by 50%

so if you use a powered / amplified splitter you overcome that loss

so like this distribution amp it bumps up the signal and there is no loss https://www.amazon.com/Bi-Directional-Amplifier-Splitter-Booster-Passive/dp/B000WDR94U

I have one and I have a ChannelMaster 7777 preamp

as upofadown asked .. most splitters are not considered power passing splitters so the way you install a pre amplifier in that case is........

The antenna has an out.. you attach the preamp to that .. if not directly then add only about a foot of good quality cable with compression fitting ends on it....

add the preamp

then you have your inserter for the preamp ... add a 1 foot piece of coax to the out port of the preamp.. connect your inserter.. connect the main cable to the rest of the house to the out port of the inserter.. RUN A SECOND INDEPENDENT LINE UP TO THE PREAMP INSERTER FROM YOUR POWER SUPPLY .. this way you can run a cable to your dc power supply that you put in the cool area in your home and not up in the attic where it will be effected by heat and you use a separate coax just to that inserter to power it...

visual is so much easier


same deal with that powered distribution amp.. you can use a separate cable to it that connects your dc power supply...

you want to keep these cables as short as you can say 50 feet or less if possible but the power will run up the line pretty well

now in my case i have 2 antennas.. each antenna has a preamp

so i have

antenna
1foot cable
preamp
power passing splitter

and then i run power to both preamps on the antennas with one inserter that runs through the power passing splitter....

then i run that single combined and amped signal down to my distribution amp to feed the rest of the house...

Until you get to your distribution amp you want all the cable lengths to be as short as your home will allow



this splitter will pass power on both sides.. most only pass on one side and are used for Sat Dishes
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00006JPEA

I got this one a few weeks ago. Works awesome and the build quality of it seems very good.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004F9LVXC/ref=oh_details_o03_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Most splitters should be okay. I've run into a shoddy one here or there but they were probably old/broken.

Just make sure you get the MOCA POE filter if you didn't know already, it keeps your network from becoming available to your entire neighborhood.

And it probably won't be a big deal but I've found the Actiontech MOCA 2.0 adapters to be better than the Motorola's in terms of performance.

Not quite sure what your solution is...
I will write up a simple something on what I will be doing and you let me know....

I will have two dedicated lines into the basement...

Line 1 = OTA antenna which will go into an HD Homerun Connect device which will go into a MOCA 2.0 adapter out to an 8-way splitter.

Line2 = Comcast Cable from street into 8-way splitter

8-way splitter - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M34OZ2S:

cable in = Comcast line with filter - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M4ODQTS

out #1 = Coax Cable from MOCA adapter for the OTA antenna - https://www.amazon.com/Actiontec-Bonded-Ethernet-Adapter-ECB6200K02/dp/B013J7O3X0/

out #2 = Office with 2-way splitter (modem, router, moca adapter)

out #3 = living room with moca adapter, router (AP mode) and TV

out #4-8 = bedrooms #1-5

2-way splitter - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0113JAN8K/

cable in = 8-way splitter out #2

out #1 = modem which cat5e to a router (Asus RT-AC68U) then to MOCA Adapter

out #2 = Moca Adapter

I hope this helps draw up my picture. I do have a NAS in the office which hosts plex for the HD homerun and stuffz.

I know this can work, but if there is a better way let me know (I rather have modem in office than in the basement before the 8-way splitter).

Looking at all the products being listed, they all will mirror the image which wasn't your goal, correct? The Cable Creation will extend the screen on Windows 10, but it looks like it won't do that for MacBook Pros. The HooToo product will just mirror the screen, but will give you additional USB ports. The ORIE just does the same as the Cable Creation.

yeah but are you splitting the component cable like this

https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-3-RCA-Component-Splitter-102848/dp/B000RJJ0XW/

or like this https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-ST123HDA-Component-Splitter-Digital/dp/B000NK75HI/

This is the splitter I use with my elgato to capture PS3 footage, it works like a charm. Hope this helps.

ViewHD 2 Port 1x2 Powered HDMI Mini Splitter for 1080P & 3D | Model: VHD-1X2MN3D: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004F9LVXC/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1497028306&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=viewhd+2+port+1x2+powered+hdmi+mini+splitter&dpPl=1&dpID=41OoScmjAQL&ref=plSrch

The device you have there is for multiple devices that you switch in between on a single HDMI on your TV so for example:

1. PS4
   
2. XBox
   
3. Switch
   
   and all are connected to the switch but you only have one cable to the TV. What probably is better is to just get a splitter that has one input but multiple outputs like this

For anything over 6 feet hdmi, I needed a repeater. This is the one I use, and what the Op recommends.

SHENFAN 4K2K HDMI Antenna Splitter Repeater Signal Amplifier Booster Adapter Extender UP TO 40 Meters Transmission Distance https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M02Z4FU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_We2GAbG28VK5W

Currently unavailable from that link but it seems lots of people have successfully extended hdmi with this.

Edit: actually OP recommends:

COWEEN HDMI Repeater 4K UHD HDMI Female to Female HDMI Amplifier 40' HDMI Extender Up to 40 Meters Lossless Transmission for Oculus Rift and More

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GHL72XS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_jr2GAbK1VMMCW

This is the one I used for another project:

OREI HD-102 1x2 1 Port HDMI Powered Splitter Ver 1.3 Certified for Full HD 1080P & 3D Support (One Input To Two Outputs) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005HXFARS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_ggm-BbJ9AP3SB

Worked great!

You might need an HDMI repeater like this.
This would help if your video card can't provide enough juice to the HDMI port.
BTW I have no idea how and why these things work, they don't have any external power inputs afaik, so they are basically magic as far as I can tell, but people have been reporting success with repeaters, so they seem to work.

Here's what I'm using:

HDMI Splitter

HDMI to AV converter

HueImmersive

And really any USB AV grabber, as long as it can grab the image it should be fine. Doesn't even have to be a good quality image or high framerate either. I'm also using a long USB extension cable I had laying around.

The colors aren't always perfect since it just takes the average color of the whole screen and it's slightly delayed, but I'm sure if you play around with settings/other programs/light configuration you can get even more accurate results.

If he is using a second pc to capture his video (hdmi)(https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004F9LVXC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)

ex: console/pc => splitter => stream pc
=> tv/monitor

I have found is super useful. What this will do, is split the video stream to two devices, so he can run his games on one screen and send a duplicate to his capture card. It only does 1080p but most streams are 720p with some exceptions.

There is a 4k model as well if he is streaming in 4k (https://www.amazon.com/ViewHD-Advanced-Splitter-Support-VHD-0102N/dp/B00AL61OOO/ref=pd_ybh_a_3?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=PDP9TXCVMN6G07MC5FF8)

This is the amp I bought from amazon last year: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000WDR94U/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I got it for $29.90 but it has worked awesome. Our house is pre wired for all rooms so the antenna is outside and feeding inside the house on one line. Plug into splitter and bingo, video on all tvs in the house.

Go w/ this. The 970m is a great high-end card, it also has a powerful quad-core i7, a blu-ray burner, 32 freakin' GBs or RAM. If you need multiple displays, you can go w/ an HDMI Splitter.

Yes, I use this one and it works perfectly to bypass HDCP on all my consoles and PC.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01CCMOMM0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

HDMI Distro amp

cheap

http://www.amazon.com/HD-104-Powered-Splitter-Support-Outputs/dp/B007NKOC2W/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1420269911&sr=8-8&keywords=hdmi+distribution+amplifier

cheap for a reason, but it works till you find a better solution

Yeah, it should be a splitter. Do you know where it is? You'll want to make sure its frequency range is at least as wide as the first splitter. While you're at it, you'll also want to install a MoCA filter, like this in order to prevent the signal from leaking back into the street.

I cut the cord and switched to OTA TV a few years ago, YouTube TV an the other online streaming services are a great idea but a bit late to the party for me.

I get around 60 channels with 4 tuners, 4TB of DVR storage, and can playback recorded or live TV to every device in my house. The initial investment was only a few hundred, most of that going to the PC.

Of course YMMV, but here's my setup:

Hardware

• 1x GE 33692 Attic Mount HD Antenna
  
  
• 2x HDHR Connect OTA Tuners
  
  
• 1x Splitter
  
  
• 1x 4 port GbE Switch (Uplink to WIFI router)
  
  
• 1x PC ( i5, 8GB Ram, 128GB SSD C: (OS, Guide), 4TB RAID 0 D: (Recordings), 1Gb Ethernet
  
  
• Multiple RG6 cables of various lengths
  
  Software
  
  TV "Server"
  
  
• Windows 10
  
  
• Sophos Home AntiVirus (Set to ignore D:)
  
  
• Windows Media Center
  
  
• ServerWMC
  
  
• (Optional) My Channel Logos
  
  Receivers
  
  
• Kodi
  
  
• pvrWMC Plugin (built into Kodi)
  
  
• VORKE Z1
  
  I have the Z1 connected to my TV that runs Kodi, and all of the other devices have Kodi installed from Kodi.tv or an app store.
  
  Basic setup
  
  
• Antenna in the attic aimed with the assistance of TVFool
  
• Short RG6 cable run to the splitter (boost it with an amp if more than 15 feet)
  
• 1 foot RG6 from the splitter to each HDHR Connect
  
• HDHR connects to switch
  
• PC to switch
  
• Connect a switch port to a LAN port on the router.
  
• Install Windows and set up recorder storage
  
• Install HDHR software
  
• Install WMC
  
• Set up WMC to your zip code
  
• Test live TV
  
• Run My Channel Logos and populate WMC
  
• Set up ServerWMC
  
• Set up Kodi on another machine
  
• Test
  
• ???
  
• Profit
  
  One day old guide screenshots
  
  Channels 2-9: http://i.imgur.com/qBhGVt8.jpg
  
  Channels 15-24: http://i.imgur.com/rywn87O.jpg
  
  Channels 24-29: http://i.imgur.com/wGK6t62.jpg
  
  Channels 29-45: http://i.imgur.com/XCqGXdL.jpg
  
  Channels 45-52: http://i.imgur.com/zInsWoG.jpg
  
  Channels 55-56: http://i.imgur.com/QmYLnQh.jpg
  
  Channels 56-65: http://i.imgur.com/UenOhUl.jpg
  
  Channels 65-68: http://i.imgur.com/RRwLFrF.jpg

If you have coax cables in both rooms, you could use one of these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B013J7O3X0/

​

I have a similar set up in that I have my router in the living room and my desktop in my office. I have coax in both rooms, but no cat5 connection. I used those MoCA adapters and they work wonderfully (including streaming games from my desktop back to my living room). You will also want to invest in a MoCA filter as well. I think this is the one I got: https://www.amazon.com/Filter-MoCA-Cable-Coaxial-Networking/dp/B00DC8IEE6/

You can try an hdmi splitter but copyright laws may prevent you from multiplying the signal. That's why bars spend thousands on equipment because each tv needs its own receiver.

My recommendation:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00F5R9TNM/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1485968837&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=hdmi%2Bsplitter%2B1%2Bin%2B2%2Bout&dpPl=1&dpID=412GDbyCYBL&ref=plSrch&th=1&psc=1

Although this is your best bet there is still a chance of copyright signaling preventing the duplication of a second signal.

Source: Low voltage Audio visual technician

I'm using a Slingbox 500 with my Spectrum cable box (HDMI only) and I can confirm that this HDMI strips HDCP, allowing you to stream via HDMI from your Slingbox.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00F5R9TNM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_xOLKDb9QMBTWK

If you're only steaming cable, I wouldn't worry about HDMI 2.0. We're not taking 10-bit HDR, 4k, or high-frame rate content, but rather super compressed cable at max 1080i60.

Alright, had the splitter about two days. Call me superstitious, but I was concerned it would effect input lag, but I haven't noticed any difference in a few hours of Battlefield 1.

I can't seem to get the HDMI-CEC to work anymore, but really I wasn't hopeful. (I flipped HDMI-CEC on/off and now tv doesn't seem to receive it for either input. That's ok; I think it's asking a lot of a $20 splitter to detect current input and intelligently route HDMI-CEC there.)

I did have to enable HDR on the tv for both inputs in tv config in order to get HDR on just one input. But once I did the HDR comes on.

The Samsung likes to auto-detect and rename my input labels, so I've given up trying to rename them things like "PSHDR" and "PS."

Overall, does what I hoped it would and no surprising adverse effects. This is the one I got, BTW: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00F5R9TNM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

A receiver has a built-in DAC and would house all the inputs/outputs you would need for audio/visual - it would certainly be the simplest route to take.

You could look for a receiver with dual outputs, or just get an adapter like this one: http://www.amazon.com/EnjoyGadgets-EGHSP1X2-Splitter-Amplifier-Display/dp/B00997MYR2

Your soundbar is most likely powered, so you wouldn't use it with the receiver. I'd get discrete speakers.

Some receivers (like this one http://www.accessories4less.com/make-a-store/item/denavr1513/denon-avr-1513-5.1ch-home-theater-receiver-3d-ready/1.html) have a headphone jack up front if you wish to connect headphones.

Just as a heads up, you can easily bypass the HDCP issue by using this in between your PS3 and your Elgato:

https://www.amazon.com/ViewHD-Powered-Splitter-1080P-Model/dp/B004F9LVXC

I use it to stream PS3/PS4, works like a charm.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004F9LVXC/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&th=1

That's the one I use. Works great.

It even says supports HDCP in the description

Rocketfish won't work for you, I tried the exact same thing. Return that one, and get this one from amazon: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004F9LVXC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I literally did exactly what you did: Saw the video, ran to Best Buy and picked up the RocketFish one, got home, and got pissed that it didn't work. I grabbed that (much cheaper) one from Amazon, and it works like a charm.

I have used this HDMI splitter for a couple of months to split the single from 1080p security cameras to two monitors and it works perfectly.

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B005HXFARS

I've been having success with:

• 10-ft HDMI extension (Monoprice Active Select RedMere): https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008D5ETHE/
  
• HDMI repeater (Shenfan 4K2K Repeater): https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M02Z4FU
  
• 10-ft USB3 extension (Cable Matters SuperSpeed USB 3): https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00C7SA21U

Those are MoCA adapters and you need a pair of them to work. You would attach one on the LAN side of your modem / router, and then attach the other wherever you want your PC.

They use an unused frequency on the coaxial cable to communicate with each other.

FYI, It is STRONGLY recommended you also install a MoCA filter (http://www.amazon.com/Filter-MoCA-Cable-Coaxial-Networking/dp/B00DC8IEE6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1409066991&sr=8-1&keywords=moca+filter) where the coax enters your house, otherwise you'll be sending your MoCA signal back out into the neighbourhood

Hello All-- To play the xbox one x at 4k and record at 1080/60, we can use the gofanco 4ksplittter/scaler. This device is a plug and play from amazon that requires no setup other than just plugging in the hdmi's. Only $55 which is really good considering comparable equipment to get this task done.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B079HJWF31/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

yes you can but if its for that purpose i would simply use a 1x2 hdmi splitter, which would do the same thing as a monitor 2.

http://www.amazon.com/J-Tech-Digital-JTD-MINI-1x2SP-Splitter-Capability/dp/B008D66RAU/

the zone 2 works a bit different, and has more features such as running two different HDMI sources to the TV and projector.

however, if you want the same audio to come out of the speakers while the picture goes to zone 2, there are some drawbacks:

1. the projector will still get audio so you need to turn the projector speakers off if it has any.
   
   
2. you must select main zone source and then set the zone 2 source to the same input. it doesnt automatically follow the main zone. its just one extra step.
   
   
3. when the Main Zone and the Zone 2 are on the same source, the AVR sets its EDID information to be 2ch PCM compatible in order to send the audio to the projector. that means that devices that automatically adjust their audio output based off the EDID information will stop outputting 5.1. if you use a player that can manually set its output formats, then you are fine, but a set top box or blu ray player that automatically sets its output format based on the capabilities it detects from the AVR will switch to 2ch. basically except for a PS3/4 and an computer, i think they will all automatically switch to 2ch.
   
   so for your purposes i think the above linked switchbox will be best and ignore the zone 2 hdmi.

I use the "ViewHD" HDMI splitter. I was into game capture stuff on PS3 and literally everything that comes out of the PS3 HDMI is HDCP protected.
Here's an Amazon link
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004F9LVXC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_dp_T1_ec7GzbV5GZY03

Also, I would highly recommend the Elgato Game Capture HD60 Pro, the video latency so low you can game while viewing the capture software on a pc monitor instead of having a second tv/monitor to view the live gaming video and a pc monitor to view/record from a game capture device, if that makes sense.

Second one is what I have (or very similar I think they are all made by the same supplier) and it works perfectly, for the PS4 as well.

I had this issue as well (with an old TV and a new Roku). I used this as a pass-through, works perfectly.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004F9LVXC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The key is this hdmi extender. Any decent usb extension should work, and any high quality hdmi cable + the extender. Im using the slim active monoprice 10ft hdmi cable and 10ft amazon usb 3.0 with the 970 with zero issues.

also there's a faq on this sub with good infos

You might be able to use a device like this to split the HDMI from the console into two HDMI signals:

http://www.amazon.com/EnjoyGadgets-EGHSP1X2-Splitter-Amplifier-Display/dp/B00997MYR2

Then one HDMI signal gets converted to RCA and then goes to your capture card/PC. The other HDMI signal goes to your TV.

HD capture cards like the Elgato work similarly. They have HDMI in from the console and HDMI out to the TV, as well as USB out to the computer.

I believe this is the answer I was looking for thanks!

For the filter, something like this?

https://www.amazon.ca/Filter-MoCA-Cable-Coaxial-Networking/dp/B00DC8IEE6

And I'd put that in between the outside world and my splitter?

I have no experience using this (I've only split a signal 3 times), but it looks like the solution you want.

8-way HDMI splitter

Totally. Pretty sure this is the one i bought,

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01CCMOMM0/ref=mp_s_a_1_26?ie=UTF8&qid=1521067160&sr=8-26&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=hdmi+splitters

Inexpensive and did the job.

I suggest trying it first, you might find that it works fine without needing anything else. If you're having issues though, you can get a signal amplifier like this one to boost the signal as you split it.

For anyone wanting a slightly more in-depth description, the PS3 and PS4 both and HDCP encryption on their HDMI Outs. PS4 was delivered a toggle in a patch that will turn off HDCP and turn off the ability to access blu-rays and video streaming apps. PS3 never had this option removed, so to record with a system like an El Gato you would need to reset the PS3 and have it output over D-Terminal (that may be wrong, I just call it my capture wire) into the El Gato, and then into the TV through HDMI. PS3 is very complicated for a first time recorder, so I can understand how you may just jump ship. HDCP can be broken using certain HDMI Splitters though. If you were ever looking for one I've heard good thing about this one. Cheers!

HDMI splitter but also HDCP stripper:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004F9LVXC/


Come to think of it, a dedicated HDMI->HDMI HDCP stripper would make for a fun FPGA project. Only problem is extracting the keys from the donor.

You need an HDMI distribution amplifier, sometime erroneously referred to as an HDMI splitter. Amazon has a bunch. The best part is, they're mostly powered by a 5 volt wall-wart. And guess what else provides 5 volts. USB! So get yourself a USB to DC jack cable and power it from an extra USB port or a cell phone battery.

I use this one from amazon and it works great haven't had any issues with it

http://www.amazon.com/J-Tech-Digital-Registered-Trademark-Capability/dp/B008D66RAU/ref=sr_1_16?ie=UTF8&qid=1393766509&sr=8-16&keywords=Hdmi+splitter

Update 7/5/19

https://i.imgur.com/ObFWt9l.jpg

found this in my crawlspace. replaced the splitter since it was all rusted and dirty. I figured that was causing some issues with my coaxial line. after replacing with another MOCA splitter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0113JAN8K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_2cLhDbV0MB6Y8, I still can't get a link connection with MOCA devices installed on both ends.

​

In order to do another test to make sure the line was live and active.

I just took off the modem from my room... disconnected everything and move the modem to my living room. Plugged the coaxial from the living room into the modem to see if I can get a active internet signal on the modem. I was able to get signal on the modem and hit a download of 940mbps. Previously, with the rusted splitter, I was barely getting 1-5mbps download. But when I connect everything back to my room and add MOCA to both rooms, I get no MOCA sync light.

​

Is it true that I should terminate the unused ports with a cap? Could that be causing me to not get a MOCA link?

Even with a product like this?

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005HXFARS/?ref=idea_lv_dp_ov_d

It looks to be advertised to send one HDMI signal to two separate monitors. Maybe I'm just misreading.

edit; after reading down further in the Q&A it looks like you're right. I have two Thunderbolt 3 ports on my Macbook. So you're saying I should get two of those adapters, and go one cable into each monitor? Will this charge my laptop while it's plugged in? And how could I integrate the hub so that I can permanently leave my keyboard/mouse wireless connector in there? I would be out of USB C connections in my MacBook if I ran them both to monitors.

Good to hear. If you like how it works and want to hook that upto multiple TVs get a powered splitter.

https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B000WDR94U/

What TV service do you have? I got my parents an Xbox One S awhile ago and it was doing the same thing with their DIRECTV receiver. The only way I was able to fix it was to put a HDMI Splitter in between the receiver and Xbox and now it works perfect. They don't have 4K so you might want to look for one if your able to get 4K from your tv provider.

Something like this. That link is for a powered/amplified version as it never hurts.

You can also use a regular 8 port splitter like this.

You have so many green channels. Have you tried a simple solution like the RCA ANT111F for under $7 at walmart? Point it to 127 degrees magnetic, and do a channel scan. You will not need an amplifier. You said that you have 5 TV's in total, so if the RCA antenna works fine, you could feed it into a amplified splitter, and distribute throughout your house that way.

Nope, I'm talking about this splitter:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004F9LVXC/

Not sure where you got the other one from. And I'm using the Micomsoft SC-512N1-L/DVI capture card, which is indeed epic and awesome... but doesn't strip HDCP.

Try picking up that splitter (for about $20 it's not exactly a high-ticket risk after all) and try again. It's pretty well-known as a working HDCP stripper.

With the HD60 Pro I downloaded the Elgato software just so the drivers were for sure installed. When it came to using a PS4, I had to disable HDCP on the system for it to work perfectly. But because a PS3 has permanent HDCP, you have to use a splitter to strip away the HDCP. This is the splitter I have. So I'm using 3 HDMI cables: (1) PS3 to Splitter Input, (2) Splitter Output 1 to Elgato, and (3) Splitter Output 2 to Monitor. It is finicky, but there's no issues recording or streaming.

Thanks for subscribing btw! I'm recording Nier on my channel right now, which is using this exact setup.

Here's the report: http://www.tvfool.com/?option=com_wrapper&Itemid=29&q=id%3d9038bc19d1a155

It looks like I have "good" signal for all of the channels coming in from the MKE area, at least the ones I recognize and would watch.

That said, if I'm planning on only going to 4 TVs at the moment, would something like this be sufficient? (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000WDR94U) or am I going to need an amplifier with it? It has a +4db amplifier built in, not sure if that's enough or really what it means.

If I were planning on 9+ TVs at some point in the future, would I be able to get away with another 4 way splitter off of that? or is an amplifier needed there?

I bought this: http://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B008D66RAU/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Worked perfectly and does what you want to do.

Now the wife can turn on the TV and watch it normally and when I'm home I turn on the Xbox One and watch TV without having to change anything

I ordered this one a few months ago, works like a charm!

Amazing, also is this what your're referring to with a point of entry filter? Would I just need one and where would I want to put it in regards to my coax lines?

Sounds like it should. I have a similar setup. Mine goes
Fios ONT>coax>splitter>moca box> one side goes to my router/Other end goes out to another splitter that feeds the rest of the house. Then there are moca devices at each point I want signal.

From what I've read, you'll need to add a filter to prevent your signal from going out to other homes, unless you're on fios, then you don't need to.

For reference, here is the splitter and moca boxes I use and I havent had issues. The specific splitter I have says unvailable, but you should be able to get nother one with the same specs easily.

Splitter

Motorola Moca Adapter

Just wanted to give my 2 cents. Had a TV that did not support hdcp (5.2.5). Bought an HDMI splitter, now hdcp compliant Netflix works again. The splitter I bought https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004F9LVXC/ref=mp_s_a_1_

Good luck

Instead of a simple T connector a 2 way coaxial TV splitter for SAT-TV or CATV will cost you around 3 USD and will provide correct matching and insolation. http://www.amazon.com/EXTREME-DIGITAL-PERFORMANCE-CABLE-SPLITTER/dp/B007YV0UQW

It will fit nicely with RG6 common F connectors and with ebay pigtails (MMCX-F) for TV usb dongles.

Yeah, don’t use an optical splitter. Switch only has LPCM sound which will only be 2 channel on optical. Optical can only support 5.1 if it’s encoded with Dolby Digital or DTS and the Switch can’t use either (cus nintendo is cheap I guess). You COULD use an HDMI matrix like this guy

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008D66RAU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Ix2ZAb0ZW1FK3

I can’t personally vouch for that particular piece, but I do use a 4 input, 2 output monoprice matrix myself (for reasons) and it works fine

There are ways around the HDCP. I use [this] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004F9LVXC/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1) with my Elgato HD and it works great!

Doing it is easy. You'd have to buy a card that has the output you need. Most tv tuner cards can output over the coax connection and that would work fine for old TV's. Some older video cards (10 years or more) tended to have coax connections built in and could work if you're using an older computer.

If you want to do a video wall you'll need one card for each tv. If you want the same picture on all TV's then just get a powered coax video splitter.

No problem yo. Sure I'll link you some things.

This is an HDMI splitter. The one I got.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004F9LVXC/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This is the capture device I got.
https://www.elgato.com/en/gaming/game-capture-hd60

I got mine from Amazon.com though, I believe the price was a bit lower and also I have an Amazon credit card anyways. They have four diffferent capture devices priced differently with different specifications to suit your needs.

If you want to go with an elgato this should help you.
https://www.elgato.com/en/gaming/capture-card-selector

This is my YouTube channel. Any recording of PS4/PS Vita in the past few months has been done using my capture device.
https://www.youtube.com/c/EnigmaticEntertainment

Hope it helps.

Never tried it with an adapter, but out of curiosity... what's your upper limit on pricing? I found a pretty cheap $25 one at http://www.amazon.com/HD-102-Powered-Splitter-Certified-Support/dp/B005HXFARS/

Yes, you need a splitter. The main line entering your house will lead to a 2-way splitter. One leg of the splitter will feed your modem, the other leg would feed the cable outlet where you have the adapter.

You want to use a POE filter BEFORE the splitter. Again, make sure you get a splitter that is MoCA compliant; it should be labeled 5-1675 MHz.

Well most capture cards like the Live Gamer HD (C985 - what I use) use an HDMI Passthrough. Although you're going to have to also get an HDMI Splitter to alleviate the HDCP issues....but I wouldn't necessarily say there's any input lag. That, paired up with Xsplit Broadcaster / Gamecaster Console Viewer actually works fairly well. I wouldn't say I have any experience with playing a rhythm games on it, but I will say that playing other games that are lag-sensitive (Street Fighter), I don't have any issues. Check it out.
Splitter
Live Gamer HD

Reading through all this. I want to confirm some things:

>Yes I have identified which cable that comes from the cable company, that one pops out in my cable box and the cable goes straight on my upstairs living room that has the modem, i longer have anything connected to cable.

The liine for HSD, goes from the cable co drop straight to its OWN RUN to the CM. Nothing else, correct?

> I have 5 cable ends for each room of the house and living room

So you have UNCONNECTED SIX leads in that demarc box, correct? And a SEVENTH that goes from cable co drop to HSD modem in separate room, correct?

So you have something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/PREMIUM-Splitter-F-Type-Antenna-110016/dp/B00DIGAIRS

Were these other rooms connected to cable for video at some point WITH The HSD run too?

You tested with a 50ft run, direct to the antenna.. Repeat this with a different test. Take cable from the antenna, use an F barrel connector and connect to the RUN to the MAIN TV you tested directly with. If there is not enough cable from the run to the antenna cable. Use a SHORT JUMPER and 2 barrel connectors to jump for the test. 3-6ft jumper or RG6. Test reception with that. Connect to each separate run, one at a time.

Repeat that test for EACH RUN, one cable at a time. NO SPLITTER.

If you get good reception from each run to the antenna. Then you need an DISTRIBUTION AMP. Like these:

https://www.amazon.com/PCT-MA28PN-Amplifier-Passive-8-Ports/dp/B000WDR94U/ref=sr_1_fkmr1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1505474036&sr=1-3-fkmr1&keywords=6+port+distribution+amp

The come in 1,2,4,8 port versions. For the two ports you don't use, get an F terminator and use on them.

The splitter is more than likely a 6 port version inserting a 10db loss!

See this for specs:
http://www.pctstore.com/6_way_horizontal_RF_splitter_PCT_1000_6W_p/pct10006w.htm


This explains splitters pretty well:
https://www.pctstore.com/Splitters_s/27.htm

As for a signal meter if you can find a USED Sencore SLM 1453I Then you can measure ATSC(8VSB) signals. Unfortunately no economical asian clones exist, they are all QAM meters for CATV use.

I have something similar to this in my basement and it works like a charm.

One cable goes in and then it splits it to cable modem and 4 TV's (with a few spare).

The one I use is this. Amazon link so you can compare to your eBay ones. It doesn't necessarily say that it removes HDCP, but It's the one everyone recommends. The reviews do say that some didn't work, so it's usually a small chance you'll get an upgraded model that doesn't strip the HDCP.

Yes. You will need an HDMI splitter. They run about $20 bucks I recommend this one. http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005HXFARS/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?qid=1451327597&sr=8-4&pi=AC_SX220_SY330_QL65&keywords=hdmi+splitter&dpPl=1&dpID=412GDbyCYBL&ref=plSrch

I ordered this one, works like a charm.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008D66RAU/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

They will work in more than just pairs. What you would want to do is put a MoCa filter on the line where it comes into the house. That would stop someone from being able to put another adapter on the line and getting on your network. Here is one on Amazon but you can get them on ebay for pretty cheap also.

https://www.amazon.com/Filter-MoCA-Cable-Coaxial-Networking/dp/B00DC8IEE6

https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00LM4IJ60/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_f8FGDb4H67RFZ

This is what I use, works like a charm.

I've used this powered splitter for my consoles so it's worth checking out: HDMI Splitter 2 Way Hdmi Splitter 1 in 2 out 1080P Full HD for 3D HDTV SKY HD PS4 Xbox360 Elite Virgin + Blu-ray Player DVD HD Camcorder HTPC Laptop Satellite https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00LM4IJ60/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_31QRAb66SC3Y1

As for converting to vga, I use something similar to this: Active HDMI to VGA Adapter with Audio, Benfei HDMI to VGA Converter Gold-Plated Cord with Audio for Laptop, XBox 360 One, PS4 PS3 https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01KLKQN9U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_k5QRAbJNE3GC5

I've Jerry rigged enough setups to know the hassle, hopefully these can help :-)

I use a HDMI Splitter for my setup when I record Gameplay footage for my Youtube Channel.

Currently I own this and never failed me since,
http://www.amazon.com/HD-102-Powered-Splitter-Certified-Support/dp/B005HXFARS/ref=sr_1_5?s=audio-video-accessories&ie=UTF8&qid=1450792526&sr=1-5&keywords=hdmi+splitter

It is powered but its good.

Did you know Amazon will donate a portion of every purchase if you shop by going to smile.amazon.com instead? Over $50,000,000 has been raised for charity - all you need to do is change the URL!

Here are your smile-ified links:

this

---

^^i'm ^^a ^^friendly bot

I have this one: [OREI HD-102 1x2 1 Port HDMI Powered Splitter] (http://www.amazon.com/HD-102-Powered-Splitter-Certified-Support/dp/B005HXFARS?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00)

Works great, and I'm using it for this exact purpose.

https://www.amazon.com/HD-102-Powered-Splitter-Certified-Support/dp/B005HXFARS

You would want something like that, I'm sure you could find one with only two if you looked

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005HXFARS?pc_redir=1410063791&robot_redir=1

I bought this one awhile back for the same reason as you and it works great.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005HXFARS/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This is what you need. I have it. It works great.

I am in a similar issue. Stations are in two opposite directions and both are behind a hill. I used a bow-tie style antenna and an amplifier. This went from unwatchable to perfect reception. It could be mounted in an attic or mounted outside if the reception is spotty.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C4XVOOC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000WDR94U/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1