Reddit mentions: The best satellite tv splitters

When buying a capture card, you might as well go big the first time around since a good one will pretty fulfill all your needs for a long time.

Whatever you get, I'd suggest an internal capture card or 3.0 USB external. Using an external card through 2.0 USB is viable (and probably the cheapest option), but it adds an extra layer of complexity to your stream - having to contend with video delay from the capture card within your broadcasting software. Basically the footage from the card will anywhere from 1-3 seconds behind your facecam / mic. For example, say you're playing a horror game. Without adjusting for the 2.0 USB capture card's delay, you will react to a jump scare on your facecam and mic before it actually happens in the game footage from the perspective of your viewers.

You fix this by adding a delay to your facecam and mic. Obviously it is for you to decide what is worth it, but I feel paying extra to not have to deal with that extra layer of complexity and set up is worth it, which is why I suggest picking up an internal capture card over a 3.0 USB external.

For a solution that can capture HDMI with little delay, deff consider the HD60 Pro
(full disclosure Elgato sent us an advanced release of the HD60 Pro before it was officially out), or, if you're also considering streaming anything retro at any point, my personal favorite, the Micomsoft SC-512N1-L/DVI.

http://solarisjapan.com/products/sc-512n1-l-dvi-component-hd-and-dvi-capture-board

There's also a variant that's $100 less but doesn't have a pass through (it's also been out of stock for a while). If you get this version you'd either need a splitter or to capture the game footage from something like Amarec. Getting splitters and cables might end up costing more than the $100 you save though.

https://www.sabrepc.com/yuan-sc512-n1-l-dvi-single-channel-dvi-capture-card.html

I suggest this card because it has very, very little latency, is easy to plug and play one you have the drivers installed (no fiddling with the capture card's resolution settings to get it see whatever it is you're trying to capture), can pretty much capture anything, and won't incur any screen tearing when capturing a second PC unlike some cheaper capture cards (the previous statement is assuming you're not using a 144hrz monitor). I feel the quality of of this card is as good as you're going to get (720p / 30 FPS) when streaming at 3500.

The HD60 Pro is just as capable when capturing HDMI, but I only suggest the SC-512 due to the ability to capture a greater number of sources. If you don't see yourself branching out you will probably be better served with the HD60 Pro or the HD 60 S which is the same thing but 3.0 USB.

As for stripping HDCP, from my experience most capture cards will not do that, but an HDMI splitter will. Here is one that most certainly will:

HDMI Splitter, SOWTECH Digital 1X2 HDMI Splitter for Full HD 1080P Support 3D (One Input To Two Outputs) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CCMOMM0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_xvvvybR5SMSZ1

So there are a few ways you could do this, but I'll describe the way that would best maintain your ability to play games normally while not getting an overly complicated setup.

Basically you'll need two things: a video splitter and a capture card in your PC (as well as the appropriate software to run and stream everything of course).

You would basically run the output from the game system into the splitter, have one go to your TV as normal and have one go into the capture card on your computer. You don't want to try playing games through a capture card because the capturing process introduces lag which will affect gameplay.

You can get a simple component splitter like this (you'd also need to get the male to male adapter since the Wii has it's own plug for the output), but you would also need to split the audio inputs as well with a couple of something like this (you could of course just get 5 of the Y adapters to split each cable individually and not have to worry about male to male adapters and such).

If you wanted to stream/play both your PS3 and Wii via component that combined with the capture card you linked to looks like it would be enough - that capture card doesn't appear to have HDMI input though so you would have to use component (not sure if you're currently using component or HDMI on your TV).

You mention that your monitor doesn't have a component input - were you planning on trying to play the games using your monitor rather than your normal TV? It shouldn't be necessary to do so - with the splitter you can put the output anywhere you like so having it go to your normal TV seems like the best choice.

HDMI is limited in length but there are HDMI extenders over cat5e (or Cat6, which is just a more recent and better version of Cat5e)

Here is the first link at amazon https://www.amazon.com/164-Feet-Extender-Power-Cable-EX-165C/dp/B01GYH8DOM/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1538441264&sr=8-3&keywords=hdmi+over+cat5

Cat 5E is the hero of this story.

Keep in mind that all the runs of cat 5E go from the wiring closet to the separate rooms of the house. You would have a router in there and maybe a phone system. They don't really need much in the way of ventilation. You might want a file server which would generate some heat and you might have an amp in there (if you want multi room audio) which would also require some cooling.

Other than Cat5e you could use HDMI cables for short runs and some low voltage cables, but length is really an issue there. The more V/A you are sending the shorter the length can be.

You also might want to put some security cameras and an alarm panel. Usually alarm systems now are wireless, but I haven't looked into that in a while and wired is always better than wireless if you can pre-wire. If you do put cameras in there, you'll also want to have a Network Video Recorder to record the cameras.

Cameras can use Power Over Ethernet (called POE) which will give you power and ethernet over the same Cat5 Cable (didn't I tell you it was the hero of the story).

If you put the wires in conduit you can always pull additional wires if you run a pull string along with the other wires. Do this.

You can even use cat 5 for the alarm connections, no rule says you have to use all the wires.

Also think about access points. Some access points use ethernet. These are the ones you want. Keep in mind they need an AC source as well so run power to where you want those access points. Look at mesh networking it's cool. Still in it's infancy but it's good.

Think about a front door bell. There are a couple of different ways to do it. I used ring with mixed results. I had to put a 2.4GHz access point right below the doorbell to get the stupid thing to work.

Oh and then there are smart mirrors. Those are cool. One in the bathroom would be awesome.

Finally if you want to run speakers to rooms you might want to run some speaker wire to the smart locations.

To the wiring closet I would run 2 or 3 20 Amp services, as well as some sort of AC if you are going to run servers or anything cool. You can never have too much power going to your wiring closet.

That's all I can think of.

Seems like no one is getting your idea. If you only want to capture, edit and upload or stream directly, you don't need to spend too much. There are two important parts that you need to consider if your idea is to play and record from a console at 4k60: 1. A video capture card like Elgato 4k60 pro ($271 USD) 2. A HDMI splitter that let you play and record at the same time at 4k60 Gofanco Prophey splitter ($56 USD). For the build; if you are planning to edit on Adobe Premiere, I'd stay with Intel because you should use hardware encoding to reduce render times and Premiere only works with Intel Quicksync. For the GPU, I recommend Nvidia for stability and if you'd like to stream, the nvenc encoder is possibly the best option for OBS. Having a mid-high GPU opens the path of PC gaming at 1440p or 1080p.

The build I'm suggesting is $1232 USD for a grand total of $1,559 USD, leaving some spare cash for upgrading and buy other accessories(mouse, keyboard, webcam, headset, etc.). I highly recommend adding more storage (you're gonna need it for 4k recording) and maybe more RAM or better GPU.

Edit: If you don't mind a bit longer render times or not gonna use Premiere, you should go with 3rd gen Ryzen. Also, streaming high quality 4k video may be difficult, you should consider to scale it down to 1080p. Important: if you're planning to OC, you'll need a better cooler (maybe bequiet, noctua or liquid cooler).

PCPartPicker Part List

Type|Item|Price

----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel Core i7-9700K 3.6 GHz 8-Core Processor | $359.99 @ Best Buy
CPU Cooler | Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler | $34.89 @ OutletPC
Motherboard | MSI Z390-A PRO ATX LGA1151 Motherboard | $109.99 @ Amazon
Memory | Corsair Vengeance LPX 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3200 Memory | $72.99 @ Amazon
Storage | ADATA XPG SX8200 Pro 1 TB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive | $149.99 @ Amazon
Storage | Seagate Constellation CS ISE 3 TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $55.99 @ Amazon
Video Card | Asus GeForce GTX 1660 Ti 6 GB DUAL OC Video Card | $249.89 @ OutletPC
Case | NZXT H500 ATX Mid Tower Case | $89.98 @ NZXT
Power Supply | Corsair RMx (2018) 650 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply | $107.99 @ Amazon
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total (before mail-in rebates) | $1271.70
| Mail-in rebates | -$40.00
| Total | $1231.70
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2019-09-22 02:46 EDT-0400 |

The video I linked is the raw livestreamed video, no re-uploading or editing from a vod. I livestreamed it on YouTube and after the stream it was saved onto YouTube like that.

I use GPU to record and CPU to stream. Since my GPU is significantly more powerful than my cpu.

The recorded footage, I was going to use as a backup in case something went wrong with the livestreamed footage for whatever reason. Like a bunch of dropped frames or something. But that hasn't happened yet.

My cpu usage when streaming is only around 51% and GPU usage is only 20%.

I have a hard drive that is literally only used for recorded footage. It is fragmented but that's fine because the footage doesn't need to be defragmented. If the footage gets used, it'll only be thrown into Adobe premiere, edited, uploaded, then deleted from the drive. No use in keeping it around if it'll be on my YouTube account forever. But recently I haven't had to use the recorded footage because the livestreamed footage is good enough.

Hope that helps answer your questions! Not trying to debunk anything you're saying, just giving more intimate details about my setup!

I do use a hdmi splitter inbetween the HD 60 pro, ps4 pro (any console for that matter), and my monitor. But that hasn't been an issue for months. I think the purpose of it, if I recall correctly, was to use it to record / stream older consoles like the Xbox 360 with the HD 60 pro. And it works very well for that. So I just kept it in the hardware loop. This is the one that I'm using: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004F9LVXC

I hope that helps you guys help me!

> Currently the main coax line goes through the basement direct to the 1st floor wall outlet, then coax to the modem.
I’ve made a drawing of how I understand the internet could go to the splitter, then run again to the 1st floor outlet, then to the modem.

Ideally, you'd have zero interruptions between the coax coming from the street, all the way to the plug on the modem. Since it sounds like the coax enters the walls to the first floor from the basement, just be sure you eliminate any coax splitters by using a barrel adapter
UNLESS you also want a coax drop for Cable TV elsewhere in the house.

Then it's just a matter of making sure you've simplified the circuit to the street using the fewest number of splitters as you can. Each two-way split introduces approximately 3.5dB of loss (a little more than 50%) of power lost. Splitters are also known to be super poorly made and absolutely go bad after a few years of use. You may consider replacing any that you're using. These are decent ones.


> I'm feeling bold

Two of those ethernet strips there in the basement look like basic patch panels. They're just for organizing the cables and don't do any switching, per se. I'd figure out what connections you actually need in the house, beyond maybe a ethernet connection to the modem, the TV and your desktop PC and then go through and eliminate everything else. If you want to double check where the lines are terminated to through the massive web of cables, you can pick up an Ethernet Probe and Test kit to make tracking everything down easier. I'd (ideally) only buy one that has a dedicated ethernet jack and is made by Extech, Fluke, or Klein. As a bonus, It's a handy tool for tracing out ANY sort of wiring, too.

Once you eliminate all the unnecessary stuff, you can start making it look nice. Use some velcro wire ties and bundle everything until it looks respectable. You MAY find that you have odd-length cables used as patch cables between the switch and the patch panel. Don't cut anything, and maybe lay out anything you eliminate by length so you can reuse them if your now-neat-looking bundle could benefit from different-length cables. Don't forget to label everything for clarity using your own philosophy.


> I’m not sure how to use this stuff, if it’s past it’s prime, or if I should even bother. But, If it could be useful I’d like to use it. I just don’t understand it despite reading the sticky’s, etc.

You'll feel a lot more comfortable once you understand what everything is and where it all goes.

All that cable is probably Cat5 or Cat5e at best. If you want to be ready for gigabit speeds in the coming years, you might consider running some new Cat6a or better. I don't know anything about the big switch in the photos, but it's probably doing the job fine for now - If you want faster than 100mbit/s network speeds though, you'll need to upgrade it along with the ethernet. As with the ethernet, it's not a priority, just a nice-to-have.

The big coax amplifier you've got there was probably built in 1974 (note: pre-internet) and is all kinds of lossy/noisy mess. I'd go ahead and get rid of that and anything coax-related that you don't think you'll end up using. There's better stuff available on the market now for stupidly cheap, if you decide that you still need an amplified coax signal.

I'd love to see more pictures once you get it all put together and looking nice. If you need any further hardware advice, let us know!

I'm sorry, man. I misunderstood it. There are HDMI replicators/splitters available. Small subset of results:

1. limited to 4K/30Hz: https://www.startech.com/AV/Splitters/HDMI-Splitters/1x2-hdmi-splitter-4k~ST122HD4KU
   
2. 1-in, 2-out: https://sewelldirect.com/sewell-hdmi-splitter-2-port
   
3. 4K compatible, but HDMI 1.4: https://www.amazon.com/ViewHD-Ultra-Powered-Splitter-Model/dp/B00J4D3RTU
   
4. 4K/60: https://www.amazon.com/AV-Access-Splitter-Supports-Built/dp/B01EV4I8LS
   
   There are multiple options available. You just have to make sure all your requirements are written down (in Excel or something) and check each product against it. It's slightly annoying, but with your specific equipment where you know some things work and others don't, this is the best way to ensure your money is going in the right place. Best of luck :)
   
   Edit: to address something important /u/lonaowna mentioned: last one works with HDCP 2.2

Hey thanks for the reply. I know it was a lot to take in but I wanted to be thorough so we didn't waste time/energy on starter things.

• Run an HDMI out of GPU in (1) into the Live Gamer 4K that's in (2)
  
  • Got it
    
• Run another HDMI cable out of the Live Gamer 4K passthrough in (2) to the gaming display for (1)
  
  • Success! This works and now I can both play in 1440p/144Hz HDR on (1) and capture that on (2)
    
• Run a DP cable from the GTX 2080 in (2) into your streaming monitor for (2)
  
  • I have a GTX 1080 Ti in (2) connected to a Dell 2560x1600 display which I have set to 1440p for the sake of uniformity between (1) and (2)
    
  • Plugging the monitor into (1) with its DP cable activates dual display as expected on (1)
    
    I would prefer not to have to run (2) just to play on (1). I'm considering ordering one more capable HDMI cable and getting an HDMI spiltter. Would this work as well? Any suggestions as far as what to look for outside of the normal compatibilities? I'm looking at something like this;
    
    gofanco Prophecy HDMI Splitter 4K 60Hz 1x2 2-Port – 4K @60Hz 4:4:4, HDR, 3D, HDMI 2.0a, HDCP 2.2, EDID, 18Gbps, Auto Scaling, Firmware Upgradeable https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B079HJWF31/ref=ask_ql_qh_dp_hza
    
    or
    
    Blackbird 4K Pro 1x2 HDMI Splitter HDR 18Gbps 4K@60Hz YCbCr 4:4:4 with HDCP 2.2 Support
    
    https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=15258&gclid=Cj0KCQjwivbsBRDsARIsADyISJ96hl0yPxHA49JXF6-iIyxf7vNAxUj8xysAQuXV26kRZJfOEmktbWAaAvIcEALw_wcB
    
    I'm leaning towards the last one since it's 18Gbps and doesnt auto scale down to 1080p like the first one does (you can still change that but I don't like that it wants to downscale by default).
    
    Thank you for the answers and suggestions and I look forward to hearing these next steps and suggestions!

The Windows 7 boot logo screen is always 1024x768 (some TVs report this incorrectly, or the GPU upscales, mine says is 1080p even though it obviously isn't) unless your monitor doesn't support that resolution (and will fall back to the legacy 640 x 480 Vista boot screen, but that's very rare nowadays). Once the video driver starts it will go to your normal resolution. So yes, the resolution change is normal.

I found an interesting thread here on stack exchange.

http://gaming.stackexchange.com/questions/169632/ps4-video-takes-a-long-time-to-show-up-over-hdmi

In other words, HDCP (High Definition Copy Protection) was causing his PS4 to have an extreme delay before displaying HDMI video. You may be having a similar issue.

Check the AMD Radeon Control Panel and look for something along the lines of "HDCP Status" in the monitor/HDTV settings. HDCP should be enabled. However if it isn't, something is not allowing the GPU and TV to establish a secure connection.

Make sure there are no devices (capture cards, splitters, etc) between the TV and video card. Make sure your GPU drivers are up to date too and try doing a clean reinstall of them. Otherwise, I would try is to replace the HDMI cable, as some can be built pretty shoddily. But it could be an issue simply between the GPU and TV. It does happen sometimes. If the issue is HDCP though, you might be able to use certain TV services like Amazon Video, Netflix or play Blu-Rays. If that doesn't concern you, you could just live without it.

I've heard that some HDMI splitter will remove HDCP. However, I have no experience with any for this purpose so I can't vouch for a specific one. Supposedly, this one will: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B004F9LVXC/?tag=hotoge-20

HD60s
Not sure if the processor is good for what you want to do - but more importantly the PS3 uses HDCP (I think that’s what it’s called)

To capture a PS3 you’d need to get a splitter that can remove the HDCP to go to the capture card. I use this one:

ViewHD Ultra HD | 4K HDMI 1x2... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00J4D3RTU?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

I got the 4K one only to future proof it Incase I use it with something else, and I got it back in 2017 so it’s unavailable now, BUT I’m sure it’ll give you a good base to figure out what to go for.

Good luck friend!

This project was inspired by a previous post by EvilBorisDX about a month ago. Thanks goes out to him for the idea, he provides some tutorials that are worth checking out - his implementation is based on Lightberry, which is a prebuilt package. I decided to build my own, and i'm glad i did - this is a really awesome addition to your gaming rig, and i recommend it to everyone! - Happy to answer any questions.

Looking around the web i found two great tutorials (linked in the video description) that helped me through the process, but it wasn't without some pain points. Here's a few key takeaways (and my parts list is at the bottom):

• You want an EasyCap grabber with the STK1160 chipset. I went through several, and while you can get it working with other chipsets (except the Somagic, if you get a Somagic just give up... it's not worth the effort, order a new one and roll the dice again), the STK1160 is by far the easiest. In fact, one of the tutorials has an SD image that will just straight work with this chipset.
  
• Not all HDMI->Composite converters are equal. First, Amazon sent me the wrong one altogether, which was a RCA->HDMI... took me awhile to notice that. Then, the replacement would only accept a 480p input (which forced the PS4 to display in 480p). After the replacement converter was in place, everything settled in and i was finally able to dial in my color settings and get this thing up and going.
  
• The replacement converter displays a test pattern when it has no signal, as opposed to just going to a black screen - so i had to add a power switch to the LED strip to be able to turn off the LEDs without shutting down the whole system. I decided to go with a Belkin WEMO so my fat ass didn't have to get up to turn off the lights, but any 2 pole switch inline with the power will work too.
  
• Don't be afraid to change the Hyperion color settings (especially the Threshold and WhiteLvl values) from what's shown on the web. Dial it in to your preference.
  
• Most tutorials call for you to power the Pi and the LEDs from the same power supply. I did not go this route since i wanted to be able to easily toggle the power to the LEDs without shutting down the Pi. If you go this route, you MUST ground the LEDs to both the power AND the Pi's grounding jumper, or the lights will not function properly.
  
  My full parts list is as follows. I found these to all work well, and the EasyCap is guaranteed to be an STK1160:
  
  
• WS2801 LEDs (Any WS2801 cuttable strip will work)
  
• Screen Grabber - STK1160 - There are cheaper ones available, but you take chances on getting a different firmware.
  
• HDMI Splitter
  
• HDMI->Composite Converter - Really don't mess around here. Get this one. It's not the same as is shown in the picture (it's white, not black), but it's 1080p and doesn't require external power. Only con is the test pattern.
  
• Any Raspberry Pi kit. I went with the CanaKit Starter kit with the Model B
  
• DC Power Adapter - To power your LEDs
  
• You'll also need misc cables (RCA and HDMI), some wires, soldering iron, 5v power port, etc... to set this all up. Good fun project overall.

Yes i do this all the time and works find. However if the resolution difference is between the 2 it defaults to the lower one. Also keep in mind it will only split the video not audio signal from it

Works well just make sure to pick a nice one and don't cheap out; got a great one for like 40-50 bucks from amazon. Have used cheaper ones and trust me there's a difference. This is the one i bought and works well http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007NKOC2W/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Playing with my xim4 with keyboard/mouse makes alot of difference when playing FPS games. I usually split to my smaller tv on my desk and it helps alot.

I've been looking around myself and I think this method might not work if I want to use HDR on my TV. Originally I was wondering if the Elgato Capture Card would be able to at least read the 4k signal and downscale, but it won't be able to, so I can't get away with a 4K HDMI splitter. And it seems that this method with the downscaler might not work since I use HDR.

I looked around more and found this product which is a splitter and downscaler in one, but it also states under the Important Notes: "Splitter can bypass 4K HDR data content but cannot process it to make 4K HDR content fit 1080p proportionally." Which I think means it cannot work with HDR and downscaling to 1080p. An Amazon comment said " if you’re trying to get a 4K 60hz HDR/1080p 60hz split into an Elgato capture card, you will need an additional HDCP 1.4 splitter." But when I read more comments others say it works with HDR and with an HD60.

 

• EDIT: I read a comment from the company stating "Thanks for the review. We would like to know more about your setup to figure out the issue, as this splitter is able to display in 4K HDR and downscale to 1080p on a separate display simultaneously. Would you like to set up a call with our tech support team to troubleshoot?"
  
  So I think I'll be able to send another display 1080p/60fps but I think the Elgato HD60 Pro hardware might not work with it in the same way.
  
  
• EDIT 2: "You need to swap the outputs over. It tells you this is the manual. The 1080p output must be connected to output 1. Then just leave the DIP switches all UP and it will output HDR 4K on output 2 and 1080p non HDR on output 1. The HDR information is extra, it sits on top of the normal video signal. The splitter just ignores it for the 1080p output "
  
  So I think this product will do exactly what I need it to do, hopefully.

I have this HDMI splitter, which bypasses the HDCP, but apparently OREI has updated it and it now is HDCP compliant. Search around on Amazon, YouTube, or even here on reddit for a splitter that is not HDCP compliant. They definitely exist, it's just a matter of finding the right one. I use mine with an elgato game capture HD, and it works flawlessly. I'd say that's your best bet...who knows when Sony will patch it, it could be months if ever. Good luck dude.

Thank you for the response! They are different native resolutions but I have changed in the settings for them to be the same to combat this issue. It still didn't fix it. Even if the monitor is plugged into the splitter by itself it is a black screen. If I plug in my TV to the splitter by itself it works fine. Also my 3 Asus monitors all work fine when plugged into the splitter (either by themselves or with the TV also). I was talking with a few other people and the predictions were:
> I suspect it is a color space issue. DVI only supports RGB color space. HDMI supports RGB and YPbPr. RGB is what computer monitors use and YPbPr is what TV's usually use. If the PC is outputting YPbPr for the TV and the monitor is only able to get RGB, well it may not be able to display the signal.

> It's a chipset issue with the Samsung monitor not being able to interpret the YPbPr color space, even though it is only about 7-8 years old.

> The computer may use drivers to support the output to that monitor and when it's plugged into the splitter it is no longer receiving driver support.

I contacted the company OREI and they said:
> Thank you for contacting us. You'll have this issue with the HD-102 when you are connecting two different display types (TV and Monitor). You won't have this issue if both are monitors or both are TV. In this case, we recommend the OREI HDS-102 which supports EDID selection.

So now my question is which of these issues is it actually?

OREI believes that if I return the splitter I have HD-102 and get HDS-102 that my problem will be solved. Any other opinions?

There's a setting on the Xbox that has to go directly to the TV app on startup. That may help your wife come to like it better (aside from the longer time it takes for the console to cold boot.) If she doesn't touch the Xbox remote, and only used the TV remote, there's a good chance she'd never see any Xbox One UI.
Anyway, I too wanted the flexibility of having a "TV only" experience, as well as an "Xbox One with TV too" experience. So last week I got a HDMI splitter from Amazon, for $20, to solve this exact problem: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B008D66RAU/ref=pe_385040_127745480_TE_item

It works perfectly.

This used to be possible with Windows Media Center and a CableCARD PC adapter such as the InfiniTV 4.

https://www.engadget.com/2010/03/30/ceton-infinitv-4-cablecard-tuner-review/

In the setup outlined above, you plug the cable from the wall directly into the device and you can schedule DVR, record to your heart's content and store recorded media on an external HDD if needed all through Windows Media Center. The advantage being you don't have to worry about your DVR box filling up and if you want to keep recorded content, you can move it onto a different storage device if you like. I love recording sporting events to watch later, for example, and when VCRs went away, this method was very helpful.

Unfortunately Microsoft phased Windows Media Center out of later operating systems and it's completely missing from Windows 10. I guess they'd rather you just keep paying that extra $15/month for a stupid DVR cable box.

I mention all of that to counter the previous poster's point about legality. It's not illegal to record shows for your personal enjoyment off of your legally obtained cable access.

As to your original question - yes. Run your HDMI through a powered HDMI splitter such as this one to bypass HDCP encryption and it should work just fine. If it's for personal use, this should be perfectly legal. If it's for uploading to some sort of bay that is loosely associated with Captain Hook and his cohorts, then probably not so much.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004F9LVXC/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I understand you have no interest in gaming and I'm not saying you should return it to buy something better for gaming or with a more powerful GPU. The CPU your PC came with (an Intel Core i7 7700) already had a GPU built into it. And the GPU built into that processor is a better GPU than the Nvidia GPU Dell decided to install (the GT 730). There was 0 need for Dell and Costco to put that GPU in the machine, it would have worked without it. I feel bad for people like you who end up in situations like this because Dell/Costco decide to add unneeded parts to computers. The same thing almost happened to my mom (also with a PC from Costco).

If you don't want to return the computer, then you have three choices:

1. Buy a HDMI or DVI to DisplayPort adapter. These are relatively expensive and can be janky if you get a cheaper one. Also, you are unlikely to get the 144 hz your monitor is capable of (but if you have no interest in gaming, this really isn't an issue).
   
2. Replace the GPU with something that has a DisplayPort out. This is really pretty simple. It would involve unscrewing 1-2 screws, pressing one tab, then pulling the GPU out, putting the new one in, then screwing the 1-2 screws back in.
   
3. Replace the monitor with something that has HDMI or DVI in.
   
   The easiest option would be option 1. If I were you and doing option 1, I'd probably get this specific adapter because it has decent reviews.
   
   That said, it is still frustrating to me that Dell and Costco do crap like this.

For your aspect ratio problem: I presume the image is squished on your recordings? I'm not familiar with the AVHD, but check for an option in your recording settings regarding 4:3/16:9 capture, I know I have to tell my Elgato to record in 16:9 as compared to 4:3.

Also, component at 480p is the best quality you can get from the Wii. Are you using splitters to get the signal to both your TV and capture card? If you are, you may want to invest in a powered component distributor (like this one) to ensure you're not losing signal quality from splitting.

Hope that's helpful :D

yeah I don't see why it wouldn't work. you might not need an HDMI splitter if you're using an xbone.. I'm not 100% sure but you might be able to disable the HDCP in your settings somewhere. I know you can on ps4.

idk if mlbtv does 60 fps so you might not be able to do that, but I'm pretty sure it would work otherwise. if you need an HDMI splitter, heres an Amazon link to the one I use.

edit to add: just a thought but you might be able to just use something like OBS to record.. like in your PC browser or something lol. I'm just telling you what I use but I know there's people that do all this stuff without using a PVR. maybe check in with some of the giffers on /r/soccer and /r/nba.

I have a similar problem to yours but instead of a PS4, it's a PC. Basically, I have 2 monitors and I like to switch one monitor from PC to switch and viceversa and my monitors only have DVI and VGA ports. This obviously sucks because I can't switch the monitor output from DVI to HDMI which would have helped a lot instead of the setup i got. I do however got a speaker set that does allow for multiple inputs, so that will work great with my switch and PC in theory. I have a discrete audio card, you should be fine unless you want to route the sound from the PS4 using TOSLINK (I do believe it has one).

So, all I can tell you from my experience... before you buy something like this, is that you do check that the device will let you add an HDMI to DVI converter to the end. In my case (the one I linked) it did not work. I wouldn't get a signal working out with the adapter... shocking i know, because it even says that it won't work with a passive HDMI to DVI adapter on the amazon listing. Anyway, I kind of lucked out because I had bought a capture card in the past and all I have to do is route it to my capture card and use the passthrough function of it (which essentially rebuilds the HDMI stream? I have no idea). I can then use my HDMI-DVI adapter and it works perfectly. The caveat though is that my PC has to be on while I'm playing. Which isn't much a deal because I actually use both most of the time.

But anyway, you obviously shouldn't be buying a capture card for this (unless that's what you want, then the above setup should work fine?), if you do end up buying something like I linked (2+ hdmi switchs with audio extractors) and it doesn't let you use the adapter for HDMI to DVI for your monitor then you can probably get something like this. I haven't test it out so I can't tell if it'll work but it should be doing the same that my capture card is doing. Obviously, it would be best if you could get a 2+ hdmi switch to DVI with audio extractor but there's none i could find.

If you do end up with a setup similar to mine, know this:

1. You'll end up with 2 devices that need their own power supply and both of them will be on while you play.
   
2. You'll need a considerable amount of hdmi cables (I'm terrible at cable management)
   
3. When there's no source detected the switch will be actively searching for a HDMI signal and that somehow prevents monitors/TV sleeping functions. I think it will depend on your monitor and hdmi switch but in my case I have to turn off the monitor connected to the switch when i'm not using it.
   
   And at last, with the amount of money you'll spend on a speaker setup, hdmi cables, passive adapters and the HDMI shenanigans you can probably just buy a 30" inch smart tv for like $100 bucks. Hell, I'm sure you could find old as hell gigantic hdmi tvs for $100 or less. My step dad couldn't get rid of his old as hell 55" tv and had to actually pay money to get rid of it.

I have a channel and my setup works for my ps4. First, gonna need a recorder. I use a hauppage hd pvr 2. They've gotten newer ones since. The thing is you will need to bypass hdcp. They have a method that turns off hdcp but i don't know how well it works. The ps4 function only works for 15 minute chunks. For audio i use my phone and mic. I think the hauppauge official program works, but my laptop isn't beefy enough.

For the bypass is use a powered splitter i got off amazon.

This is the splitter i use. Super easy and works fine. Have had 0 issues with it. Hope this helps.

I know what you meant, since I work in technical support, and deal with customers who don't know what to call things all the time. "I'm adapting DP to HDMI, but I'm not using an adapter, just a cable" is a common one. Most issues arise from misunderstanding that only dongles are adapters, which is why I have to break it down as 'I understand you're saying that you are not using an adapter, what port is the cable plugged into on the computer.... HDMI? .... and on the monitor? .... DP? .... Is there a box on the cable? ... No? ... I found your problem.'

A tiny dongle that has DP and HDMI plugs, that plugs into DP on the computer, and gives a plug for an HDMI to HDMI cable is an adapter. This is what you meant. Not linking a pic, since we're both in agreement these are adapters. Now, so you understand a tiny bit more...

A 2 meter long cable with a DP and HDMI plug on either end (like this) is ALSO an adapter. Sure, no additional breaks, but it adapts DP to HDMI. Would probably help OP with less additional parts to buy. It's still an adapter, and works effectively the same as the dongle, just a bit longer and with some gender variances on ends.

That VERY SAME cable would not work if plugged into a HDMI port on the computer, and DP on a monitor. It requires an active adapter, which does a little conversion from the older HDMI standard to the newer DP standard. In the instance of HDMI-DP, it can draw power from HDMI but still requires a housing for the chipset (like this). Most active adapters have a second cable that plugs into USB or the wall (like this).

Relevant

No problem, hold on, though!

The thing you're eyeing will NOT do 4K on an X, as far as I can tell, and in case that's relevant to your scenario.

Apparently, the adapter will only do 4K @ 30 Hz, which the X won't work with, so you're stuck with 1080p.

Also, some users say that some monitors don't have built-in scalers, which can result in your Xbox outputting in 480p. Ouch!

Have you seen this one? It's a similar price to the one you linked and yes, this one has the same limitation with 4K only being displayed at 30 Hz but here, there's quite a few people confirming that it works for their Xboxes, take a look at the customer questions and reviews.

Also, if you're rich, you can select the version capable of 4K/60Hz for like 170 bucks, haha.

Awesome. Thanks for the reply, so using this card looks like it would be better to build my own capture DVR rather than using the haupauge pvr?

So I'd essentially build a small efficient pc running Linux, add the colossal 2 as hdmi input and then use the ir blaster with the scheduler to change channels.

Would this pc need anything else other than a cheap motherboard/cpu/memory/hdd/psu and colossal 2 capture card?

Edit: quick hit of research says I would also need this? http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004F9LVXC/ref=pd_aw_fbt_147_img_2?ie=UTF8&refRID=15JKGZ2G9EX913KRTHQT

A switch won't do this, but you can absolutely accomplish this. There are HDMI over cat cable adapters ( https://www.amazon.ca/EX-165C-165-Feet-Extender-Power-Ex-165C/dp/B01GYH8DOM/ - as an example. Not sure if that's a good one or not... Not an endorsement). You can use an HDMI splitter where all of the cables meet up (at your switch, or wherever a switch would go) and use several sender units to convert the, now split, HDMI signal to cat 5/6, and send it down the line. A quick conversion back at the endpoint and you're all set.

Some higher end home theatre solutions use this type of thing to keep av equipment out of sight. Companies and businesses use these to do things like, watch security cameras from a DVR/NVR from across the building (or to display it for customers to watch themselves walk in). Also for some digital signage applications .... Lots of things.

I'd say this is a pretty ambitious first project, but what better way to learn than to fail until you succeed. I did this project for a friend on a 75" tv. Honestly to do this for your computer you wouldn't use a raspberry, you would use your computer as the "brain" instead of a pi. Here's the links i used to do the tv project, there's youtube guides for pc using an arduino, you can reverse engineer these links to get you somewhere.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZCVfZb4UoO4

https://www.amazon.com/Aclorol-100V-240V-Switching-Converter-5-5x2-1mm/dp/B07CMM2BBR/ref=sr_1_fkmr1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1531773371&sr=8-4-fkmr1&keywords=DIANQI+power+supply+50W+5V+10A

https://www.amazon.com/Movcle-Splitter-Adapter-Powered-Certified/dp/B0180PPTNO/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1531772622&sr=1-2-spons&keywords=HDMI+Splitter&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/Cingk-Converter-Adapter-Supports-Chromecast/dp/B01N0YDDI3/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1531772653&sr=8-2-spons&keywords=HDMI2AV+Converter&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/Switch-Remote-Famirosa-Switcher-Selector/dp/B075K3X64T/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1531772702&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=HDMI+Selector&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/August-VGB100-External-Composite-Transfer/dp/B008F0SARC/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1531772765&sr=8-2-spons&keywords=USB+Grabber&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/CHINLY-Individually-Addressable-Waterproof-waterproof/dp/B01LSF4Q00/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1531772536&sr=8-2-spons&keywords=WS2812B+RGB+LED&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/Arduino-Uno-R3-Microcontroller-A000066/dp/B008GRTSV6/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1531772580&sr=8-3&keywords=Arduino+Uno

Here is a 1 to 2(cable box to two componets) splitter http://www.amazon.com/dp/B004F9LVXC/ref=sr_ph?ie=UTF8&qid=1408799072&sr=1&keywords=hdmi+splitter. Works great. My girlfriend used to complain about everything going through the xbox but I still wanted the xbox TV feature to work and this little puppy made both of us happy. Good luck.

Look into an "HDMI splitter". It's a box that takes one video input and duplicates it into several outputs. I did some review reading, and this is the best one I could find. If you need another HDMI cable, you can get one from Amazon Basics on the cheap.

Also, thank you! I hope you have a wonderful Thanksgiving, too!

gofanco Prophecy Intelligent 4K 60HZ HDR 1x4 HDMI 2.0 Splitter

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079HN327D?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

This is what I use with my HD60 Pro.
I also use a 4K switch in conjunction with it but I think this is the most cost effective way to solve your problem.
Took a chance on it and it works like a dream.

To answer your question though, the setup you described in your post would work as well if you want to buy a 4k60

I bought this splitter to use with my 4K OLED TV and my crappy 1080p monitor in my office, works flawlessly. The advantage of this splitter is it can simultaneously display HDR 4K image on my TV and 1080p on my monitor. Their support team was also great helping resolve an issue and called me for support.

gofanco Prophecy Intelligent 4K... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079HJWF31?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Buy a capture card and stick with elgato or the HDPvr. Depends on what type of computer you have which is best.
I've heard elgato is best on macs and HDPvrs are better with windows.
Also.... you WILL need an HDMI splitter that will filter out the HDCP that Ps3 has to prevent recording in HD or else you'll have to hook up through component and your quality will suffer.
Supposedly THIS one is the best and eliminates HDCP totally so you can hook up HDMI from PS3 to splitter, HDMI to capture device, then HDMI to laptop/pc and to the TV.
Personally, I have the HDPvr Rocket which is portable and can capture on the fly. You can hook it up hard wired or record freestanding to a SD Card. Its THIS one.

I'm out of town for the weekend but I'm pretty sure I have this exact one.

https://www.amazon.com/HD-102-Powered-Splitter-Certified-Support/dp/B005HXFARS

I have my cable box -> splitter -> Xbox HDMI in. I've had this splitter for at least 3 years. I originally got it when I was in college so I could have an awesome man cave. Found out later that it strips the hdcp and allowed me to stream my cable TV to my windows tablet from my xbox. Heres a link for a little more info on hdcp stripping.

http://www.tweaking4all.com/home-theatre/remove-hdcp-hdmi-signal/

Since the PSTV has HDCP, you'll need a splitter that supports HDMI 1.3. But here are links to the capture card and splitter I use.

Capture Card - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00K5A8FP2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Splitter - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004F9LVXC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I do realize that the splitter is no longer available directly from Amazon, but from sellers, but I still direct people to this, specific model, as I've heard stories from other people having issues with HDMI 1.3 splitters aside from this one. Just note that any splitter SHOULD work as long as it supports HDMI 1.3.

And the drivers for the capture card. I use the ones set for the GL310.

http://www.avermedia.com/gaming/download/lgp_lite

Only advice is to always make sure your mic is plugged in before launching the capture card's software to make sure you don't start commentary on the stream and realize your mic isn't working with the software. And toggle the volume settings in the application itself for a good balance so the game's volume doesn't overbear your own mic voice.

That sounds awesome bro. I am using the Elgato HD capture run through an HDMI Splitter, for some reason that lets me use the HDMI cable instead of the cable they provide ;). I used Final Cut Pro X for the editing, made the spinning logo via Motion 5 and encoded it for YouTube with Compressor 4. I love making these videos and and currently working on some sweet animations for the crew. We have to talk so we can plan some things, you know as I do, the more footage you have the better. Hit me up.

Yes correct two screens , one is 4k the other is 1080 , switching form one to the other, for single player games 4k is great but for anything online and competitive I rather have best performance 1080p with 60fps rather then 30 and the lowest input lag, just trying to find something that’s not having me to disconnect and connect cables back and fourth, I did come up on this now, they say it’s possible to have 1 source (end of HDMI cable coming from PS4 pro) then one out let from device is 4k the other will be in 1080.

Thing is I also like to free up the second screen so I can be browsing , watching sports between matches , and little brakes.

https://www.amazon.com/gofanco-Prophecy-Intelligent-60Hz-Splitter/dp/B079HJWF31/ref=pd_gwm_psimh_0?pf_rd_s=blackjack-experiment-1&pf_rd_t=Gateway&pf_rd_i=mobile&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pd_rd_wg=aZIWz&pd_rd_r=5RTSPE14A1VK2D3B2F0Z&pd_rd_w=67nTK&pf_rd_r=RQVP9YNAWKJNE0TX5DCQ&pf_rd_p=db8e741f-3a25-4908-9938-1cabe21e7102&pd_rd_i=B079HJWF31

you are on the right track for sure. all you need is that video capture card and this is the most highest recommended HDCP splitter. I bought a cheap hdmi splitter that didn't do the job right and this one worked a treat.

this thing and the capture card is all you should need
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004F9LVXC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

best of luck

> I honestly don't mind playing them on the LCD

Yeah, a lot of people here do seem to mind (though getting "raged and flamed to hell" isn't usually something that happens in this sub), but I'm right there with ya. I've actually got 8 different systems (both old and new) hooked up to a nice LCD computer monitor I was given for Christmas (specifically a Dell UltraSharp 2405FPW, along with the optional soundbar), and it does a wonderful job IMHO, despite being over a decade old (these things came out around 2005 or so, I think). I just wish my Sega Genesis still worked (video output died somehow, so I'm using one of those crappy FireCore things for now), and I need to get a composite cable for my SNES... :/

Anyways, this UltraSharp is a 16:10 monitor (1920x1200), so it's decent for both widescreen and standard systems; the 16:9 systems have about an inch of letterboxing on top and bottom while the 4:3 systems similarly only have about an inch of pillarboxing on the left and right. It also can pivot into a portrait view, which is interesting. Haven't used that yet, but it might be cool for certain arcade SHMUPs (my Wii is hacked, so I can run some of those in an emulator)...

It also has a ton of different inputs, though it's missing HDMI. Luckily, HDMI and DVI use the same digital video format, so I just use a straight HDMI-to-DVI cable for my PS4 (and a USB audio adapter for plugging in the soundbar, so I don't have to worry about splitting out and converting the HDMI's digital audio to analog). Unfortunately, though, this particular monitor does not have HDCP support, so the media apps (YouTube, CrunchyRoll, etc) and the BluRay playback won't work on the PS4. I may get one of these things to bypass HDCP eventually...

All that said, my setup isn't nearly as organized as yours (shown here using the monitor's "picture-beside-picture" mode, playing PSO in my Wii on the right while studying this chart in the PS4's internet browser on the left. Apologies for potato-quality camera, lol). Part of that is due to space constraints, though -- I live with my sister, and keep my game systems in my bedroom so she can watch TV in the living room while I'm gaming... :P

You will not be able to use the capture card to play your PS4 on your computer at any playable latency. When you plan on hardware capturing a device you will need to take the splitter, run 1 output to the capture card(this will allow you to send video to your stream) and 1 output to your monitor(hdmi to DVI cables are a beauty and only a couple bucks) and as long as you are using a device w/o HDCP forced on(read as PS3) you are good to go. I personally use a 4x4 monoprice matrix switch that allows me to have 4 input devices then run any combo of those to 4 different outputs (monitor, capture card, TV and a free one). I also have more than 1 input as well. If you want to go back and forth between your TV and don't mind rerunning cables, just snag a viewport 1x2 splitter (side note this also strips HDCP if you ever need it) and a cable and run swap out the plug that goes to your monitor for an HDMI for your TV.

I bought this one to use with my PS3:

https://www.amazon.com/HD-102-Powered-Splitter-Certified-Support/dp/B005HXFARS/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1478808828&sr=8-1-fkmr0&keywords=Orei+HD-102+1x2+1+Port+HDMI+Powered+Splitter+Ver+1.3+Certified+for+Full+HD+1080P+and+3D+Support+One+Input+to+Two+Outputs+%28Black%29

Worked like a charm when I did extra life. Hope it helps! :)

Is your TV even a HDTV? Please tell us you're not one of THOSE people, that has a HDTV set and a digital cable box, but connects them using a coaxial cable so all you ever see is standard definition (yes, unfortunately there are people like that).

In any case, your problem is that the coaxial cable output (the one labelled CABLE OUT) is standard definition analog NTSC, which is neither "Digital ATSC" nor "Digital QAM". You need to be connecting the cable that comes INTO the cable box (the one currently connected to the CABLE IN connector) to your WinTV. Then, scanning one or the other of those should work PROVIDED you are in an area where not all cable channels are scrambled. If that works, then you need to get a cable splitter (looks like https://www.amazon.com/Premium-Coaxial-Splitter-Bidirectional-Communications/dp/B00NE0G23W) and run the cable into the input on that, then connect the two outputs to your cable box and to your digital tuner.

However if you still can't scan anything, it means you either hooked it up incorrectly, or your cable system has no unencrypted channels. In any case, if you want to receive encrypted channels, you will either need a tuner that supports a cable card (and that assumes you can still get a cable card from your cable company, since I have heard they are being phased out), or you will need to be content with the free unencrypted channels (if any). Or, you could put up a TV antenna and run that into your tuner card to get your local channels, then use a streaming device such as a Roku to watch content from pay channels (but for that you would need a HDTV; I don't think most streaming devices have a coaxial output).

And for crying out loud, if you have a HDTV, then before you do anything else get a HDMI cable to connect the cable box to the TV, so you can enjoy true high definition!

Don't listen to these other people telling you it wont work. It will, its just hit and miss. the splitter you bought is not one that is known to scramble the HDCP signal. This one had yeilded better results if you can I say return the one you bought and try the viewHD one. what you've got to do is connect one output to ElgatoHD60 and one to your tv. so a flow chart would be like:

PS3->HDMI Splitter Input

HDMI Splitter Output 1-> TV

HDMI Splitter Output 2 -> Elgato HD60

This should be enough to scrable the HDCP signal but like I said it is hit and miss.

Edit: I've re read your post it sounds like you are only using one output. for the splitter to work you must use both outputs. I suggest you try my flowchart with your current splitter before returning and purchasing another one. To make it a but more clear, you will need a total of THREE (3)
HDMI cables for the splitter to work.

You can feed 4K60 into the 4K60 Pro and stream/record at 1080p60. That's what I'd recommend anyways. Streaming at 4k is too tough on the PC hardware and requires insanely good internet to not only upload but on the viewer end, to watch.

You could also go with an HD60 Pro and get a cheaper hardware scaler, like this GoFanco Splitter and scaler.

I have personal experience with the GoFanco and can say this: It works. It will also accept an HDR signal but it DOES NOT convert HDR to SDR properly so you will be left with a washed out image. For all intents and purposes, it DOES NOT convert HDR to SDR.
I tested it with one output connected to a 4K Monitor, and another output to an HD60 S. The monitor received the Xbox One Xs 4K signal and the HD60 S got a scaled 1080p60 signal. The scaling is not the best quality, but its hard to tell from normal viewing distances or when encoding the gameplay for a video.

Hope this helps! -

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Real CH2 and CH6 are down near the FM frequency range, your antenna won't even see those signals. Your signals are strong enough that an FM antenna would probably work and you don't need the amp. I'd get a FM folded dipole antenna (the T-type that you tack to the wall) like THIS and connect it to a Balun like THIS and then use a regular two-way coax splitter like THIS to combine the signals from the FM antenna and the 1ByOne into the TV/Tuner.

An HDMI matrix switcher is overkill, in my opinion.

If you want your PC connected to your TV as well as the two monitors, it would seem an HDMI Splitter would resolve that issue. Connect the HDMI cable going to your receiver to the input on the splitter, then one output to the receiver, the other to the HDMI capable monitor.

For the laptop, as was previously suggested, a "universal dock" with two monitor outputs will take care of your laptop, though you'd need to manually change the inputs on your monitors...

My setup is very simple:
I normally stream capture from my PlayStation 3, PlayStation 4, Xbox 360 and Xbox One. I split my console(s) signal using this splitter. I then capture footage from my console(s) via a Black Magic Intensity Shuttle
For my audio I use a mixer. With a XLR Headset. All audio goes from my mixer to my Macbook Pro or PC using an XLR to USB audio adapter.
Camera is a Go Pro Hero 3+ Black Edition which is captured using a second Black Magic Intensity Shuttle. Its also pretty good with my chroma keying.

Exact same thing happened to me. Issue we had was our COAX splitters. We replaced any old splitters (i'm talking 5-10 y/o) with ones specifically meant for 2-way MoCA like these. Worked like a charm. Hopefully our root causes are similar!

Bro I am quiet sure that you need some sort of a power input as well to supply the sufficient signals to your desired display.
Something like this
https://www.amazon.com/HD-102-Powered-Splitter-Certified-Support/dp/B005HXFARS
This would act like an amplifier.

I wanted the Xbox to be hooked up to my monitor, and the television at the same time, but not have to plug and unplug the hdmi cords all of the time, so I bought this. It works wonderfully without any issues. It carries the same signal to both and plays on both simultaneously. After testing with an HTML stopwatch on the PC with the splitter (two outputs, one output to my monitor, other output to the splitter that split to a second monitor and tv) I've determined that it adds no input lag, so you don't have to worry about a delayed button press, reaction, etc.

Now I can game on the TV, or on the monitor if the wife is wanting to watch something in the same room, all without the hassle of having to set anything up.

I hope this answers your question.

I'm hoping so too, but I don't think we're gonna have anything to worry about. The one thing I am kinda worried about though is Sony's HDCP. I'm loving Elgato with my Xbox, but, since I'm switching to PS4, I really, really hope I don't have to use component instead of hdmi like people have to with the PS3 due to the HDCP DRM restrictions

And, btw, you should be able to output from the Xbox in 1080p, too. Not sure 720. It's in the settings. I can look if need be.

Edit: got this today and works with ps4.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005HXFARS/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Yep....I gave you a link to a cheap one that takes care of the hdcp protection and is 4k compatible.

Also, I'm pretty sure the digital optical DOES support 7.1 through Dolby bitstream... but the HDMI definitely does carry 7.1 uncompressed

No, they aren't. Here's a BD-R drive for $60 - $15 promo code, DVD burners are $15, so they're $30 more than DVD drives nowadays. (e: PriceZombie says the low on that drive was $35 - so they're ~$20 more than DVD drives on sale).

As for HDCP - HDCP is in every GPU and monitor made in the last 5 years, even the low-end cheapie models. Trust me, I bottom feed hardware. If you're running Windows 7, odds are your hardware is recent enough to do what you need.

If you're upgrading Grandma's vintage Pentium 3, you can fix the display issue with a $25 HDCP stripper box. Or, dodge the whole hardware issue and find yourself some HDCP stripping software. I know there's AnyDVD HD as a commercial product ($70), and I'm sure there's some free alternative out there too if you're willing to futz around to make it work.

By dodging Bluray, you're saving yourself maaaaybe $100, best case. Most people are just saving the $30 on the drive. Once upon a time VHS tapes were cost-advantageous, too.

It really sounds more like you're outraged about HDCP existing...

Sure, you just need an HDMI splitter so that you can direct the same signal to two displays. Something like this should work. (I'm not recommending that one, it's just the first one I found.)

Just to be super clear, there's no "setting" to output signal from both HDMI ports on the Xbox One. One is for output, one is for pass-through. The only way to get output to two displays is to use a splitter.

I bought this about a month ago to record gameplay from my PS3 (it's the Super Slim model, don't know if that matters). It works pretty much flawlessly. You mentioned in another comment that you want to record PS1 games from your PS3. I don't know if you mean downloaded games or if you have one of the PS3's that supports PS1 discs. Either way, in theory, the device I linked to should work, as it's still bypassing the HDCP nonsense.

There are more expensive capture cards from Elgato and Avermedia that has a hdmi output that can be used to send to the tv but I will show you how on this capture card im selling.

1. Xbox HDMI to a hdmi splitter. an example this one https://www.amazon.com/HD-102-Powered-Splitter-Certified-Support/dp/B005HXFARS
   
   This splitter takes 1 hdmi input (from the xbox hdmi in this case) and has 2 outputs. Those 2 outputs will be the TV and capture card.
   
   
2. From the splitter, you will have two hdmi cables. One hdmi will go the TV like normal. The other hdmi will plug into the capture card.
   
   
3. Once those are hooked up. Plug the capture card into the PC or Laptop that your son uses. The drivers for the capture card should auto install in Windows. ( I cant confirm how it will work on Mac or Linux.)
   
   
4. Download the software OBS which can be found here https://obsproject.com/
   
   
5. In OBS, add Video Capture device and the capture card should show up.
   
   Bonus - The manual details what settings you should use in OBS to get it up and running.

Nah man, you can totally get them from Amazon or anywhere really. They're not marketed as stripping or even supporting HDCP, but many reviews mention they do, and it totally does.

There's a whole slew of very similar ones with slightly different casing. Here's an example: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005HXFARS/ If you shop around, you can find probably 5 other splitters that are nearly exactly the same form factor- I'd bet they're the same mass-produced board in china, and just tossed in different cases by different companies.

EDIT: Recent reviews for that particular one seem mixed. Some say it is fully HDCP compliant, and will not strip it, some say it still works perfectly.

I am pretty sure an HDMI splitter with mirror (that last "mirror" part is crucial) would work for you. This one is $15 on Amazon. It is able to send the same video signal to two monitors.

SOWTECH 1X2 HDMI Splitter Version 1.4 Full HD 1080P Powered HDMI Splitter 1 in 2 Out Support 3D for Duplicated/Mirror Dual Monitor https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CCMOMM0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_6V-3CbRHGHQ89

There are basically three options for GameCube capture:

First option is HDMI. That will get you the best capture quality, but HDMI capture cards are expensive. The Insurrection Industries HDMI adapter for the GameCube that I linked earlier allows you to output both HDMI and S-Video/composite from the GameCube at the same time, so you can have the HDMI going to the capture card and the analog video going to your TV (since speedrunners typically prefer to use CRTs). You don't need a splitter with this setup, just the capture card, HDMI adapter, and an S-Video/composite cable to go to your TV. Now, if you do need/want to use an LCD instead of a CRT, you can either get an HDMI splitter or look for an HDMI capture card that has a passthrough output.

Second option is S-Video. This still looks pretty good if you set it up right with OBS's "retro" deinterlacing option, and it's quite a bit cheaper than HDMI capture. You need a capture card like the GV-USB2 I linked above, an S-Video cable, and a splitter so you can send the signal to both the capture card and your TV. Many CRT TVs have S-Video inputs, newer LCDs might not. You'll also need some male-to-male S-Video and audio cables to connect to the splitter.

Third option is composite video, but it looks really bad so I don't recommend it. Not much cheaper than S-Video anyway.

1. Are you using LGP livestream engine?
   
   
2. Component is shoddy on ps3 in the end I ended up buying a splitter which strips HDCP. I have only owned it about a week and it seems to work a treat, ca't common on longivty however, hoping it will last a long time. http://www.amazon.co.uk/ViewHD-Port-Powered-Splitter-1080P/dp/B004F9LVXC/ref=sr_1_36?ie=UTF8&qid=1397124298&sr=8-36&keywords=HDMI+splitter
   
   
3. If you need more help just reply :D

If you're planning to do PS3 over HDMI you can just get something like this to bypass the HDCP. It works perfectly well for me.

It would be amazing to have a software solution to this.

At the moment I have to use a ps tv to capture game footage. It needs a special hdmi splitter that can strip the hdcp from the ps tv (this is the one I use in case anyone wants to do it too http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004F9LVXC/ ) and I feed that into a capture device (mine is a hd pvr2 but any capture device will do).

This is a good guide until we get something for the vita itself: https://www.reddit.com/r/VitaTV/comments/35zpfk/how_to_capture_video_with_a_pstv/

I doubt you have HDMI inputs on your pc, but outputs will work. :) You need one of these, a display port to mini display port dongle, and the wacom link. If you don't have USB3 you'll need to get an add in card as well. With the exception of some laptops like macbook pro, most computers do not have true thunderbolt 3 connectors so most of us are using the link.

Other options I wonder is: What is your Internet provider?

If it is cable and you have other coax outlets in your house you should be able to move the modem with no problem. If you get TV from the same provider you should be able to buy a coax splitter to split the signal so that both your TV and your cable modem can still plug in.

In terms of the beacons I would definitely play with them to see where you get the best speed. You can use the app to determine how good the general signal is to the beacons and see which devices are connected to which eero. This way you can test the speeds at the different placements.

You are probably using too long cables for a passive splitter (the two you linked). How long are the cables? Even regular HDMI cables have issues if too long.

An active HDMI splitter (which has a power input to amplify the signal) would probably do what you need. This one has good reviews: https://smile.amazon.com/HD-102-Powered-Splitter-Certified-Support/dp/B00F5R9TNM/ref=sr_1_8?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1486654568&sr=1-8&keywords=hdmi%2Bsplitter&th=1


edit: though I would probably just do what SJC856 recommends (if you computer has multiple video outputs)

That cable should work fine, though ymmv depending on your setup and conditions.

You might also want to consider a HDMI over Cat5/6 extender - something like this - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GYH8DOM?psc=1

Great signal over a long distance, and much easier to run Cat cables compared with a thick HDMI cable.

And if your house is already wired with ethernet ports in the respective rooms/areas you want to connect, it's almost a no brainer.

What was happening? This sounds like it could be a HDCP issue. You can bypass most issues with one of these if anyone was wondering. Apple devices cause tons of these issues in conference rooms, especially when splitting signals. Good to know you saved the day!

Not sure if you are in the UK but I got this as I wanted a splitter to go to my capture card and have a direct input to the monitor to ensure the picture quality was good. In other words it is a one in two out splitter. https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00LM4IJ60/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I understand, I am also digging for information to better understand what is going on myself.

For signal strength, I could increase it a bit using a different splitter to around -3.2 dBmV in the downstream, the upstream would be around 44.7 to 46.7 dBmV. Where I used to live the technician gave me an Extreme BDS102H, and where I am now the technician insisted I use a Commscope SV-3BG. I do not need a 3-way splitter though.

Not quite a "you broke it we fix it", but I can't figure out what I need to record 1080p from my PS3. It's supposed to be possible with some technical-loophole magic, right? I just can't figure out what I gotta get! I use an HDPVR2.

EDIT: I chose the wrong term/phrasing. Allow me to correct:

What do I need to record from HDMI on PS3?

I already did some research and I think I've gotten my answer. For those interested, it seems like you really just need an HDMI splitter that can circumvent the HDCP engrained in the PS3. There are a few of them, and two of them I've seen recommended are:

This one.

and

This one.

I got this one a few weeks ago. Works awesome and the build quality of it seems very good.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004F9LVXC/ref=oh_details_o03_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Not quite sure what your solution is...
I will write up a simple something on what I will be doing and you let me know....

I will have two dedicated lines into the basement...

Line 1 = OTA antenna which will go into an HD Homerun Connect device which will go into a MOCA 2.0 adapter out to an 8-way splitter.

Line2 = Comcast Cable from street into 8-way splitter

8-way splitter - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M34OZ2S:

cable in = Comcast line with filter - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M4ODQTS

out #1 = Coax Cable from MOCA adapter for the OTA antenna - https://www.amazon.com/Actiontec-Bonded-Ethernet-Adapter-ECB6200K02/dp/B013J7O3X0/

out #2 = Office with 2-way splitter (modem, router, moca adapter)

out #3 = living room with moca adapter, router (AP mode) and TV

out #4-8 = bedrooms #1-5

2-way splitter - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0113JAN8K/

cable in = 8-way splitter out #2

out #1 = modem which cat5e to a router (Asus RT-AC68U) then to MOCA Adapter

out #2 = Moca Adapter

I hope this helps draw up my picture. I do have a NAS in the office which hosts plex for the HD homerun and stuffz.

I know this can work, but if there is a better way let me know (I rather have modem in office than in the basement before the 8-way splitter).

Looking at all the products being listed, they all will mirror the image which wasn't your goal, correct? The Cable Creation will extend the screen on Windows 10, but it looks like it won't do that for MacBook Pros. The HooToo product will just mirror the screen, but will give you additional USB ports. The ORIE just does the same as the Cable Creation.

yeah but are you splitting the component cable like this

https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-3-RCA-Component-Splitter-102848/dp/B000RJJ0XW/

or like this https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-ST123HDA-Component-Splitter-Digital/dp/B000NK75HI/

This is the splitter I use with my elgato to capture PS3 footage, it works like a charm. Hope this helps.

ViewHD 2 Port 1x2 Powered HDMI Mini Splitter for 1080P & 3D | Model: VHD-1X2MN3D: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004F9LVXC/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1497028306&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=viewhd+2+port+1x2+powered+hdmi+mini+splitter&dpPl=1&dpID=41OoScmjAQL&ref=plSrch

The device you have there is for multiple devices that you switch in between on a single HDMI on your TV so for example:

1. PS4
   
2. XBox
   
3. Switch
   
   and all are connected to the switch but you only have one cable to the TV. What probably is better is to just get a splitter that has one input but multiple outputs like this

This is the one I used for another project:

OREI HD-102 1x2 1 Port HDMI Powered Splitter Ver 1.3 Certified for Full HD 1080P & 3D Support (One Input To Two Outputs) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005HXFARS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_ggm-BbJ9AP3SB

Worked great!

Here's what I'm using:

HDMI Splitter

HDMI to AV converter

HueImmersive

And really any USB AV grabber, as long as it can grab the image it should be fine. Doesn't even have to be a good quality image or high framerate either. I'm also using a long USB extension cable I had laying around.

The colors aren't always perfect since it just takes the average color of the whole screen and it's slightly delayed, but I'm sure if you play around with settings/other programs/light configuration you can get even more accurate results.

If he is using a second pc to capture his video (hdmi)(https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004F9LVXC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)

ex: console/pc => splitter => stream pc
=> tv/monitor

I have found is super useful. What this will do, is split the video stream to two devices, so he can run his games on one screen and send a duplicate to his capture card. It only does 1080p but most streams are 720p with some exceptions.

There is a 4k model as well if he is streaming in 4k (https://www.amazon.com/ViewHD-Advanced-Splitter-Support-VHD-0102N/dp/B00AL61OOO/ref=pd_ybh_a_3?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=PDP9TXCVMN6G07MC5FF8)

Go w/ this. The 970m is a great high-end card, it also has a powerful quad-core i7, a blu-ray burner, 32 freakin' GBs or RAM. If you need multiple displays, you can go w/ an HDMI Splitter.

Yes, I use this one and it works perfectly to bypass HDCP on all my consoles and PC.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01CCMOMM0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

HDMI Distro amp

cheap

http://www.amazon.com/HD-104-Powered-Splitter-Support-Outputs/dp/B007NKOC2W/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1420269911&sr=8-8&keywords=hdmi+distribution+amplifier

cheap for a reason, but it works till you find a better solution

I cut the cord and switched to OTA TV a few years ago, YouTube TV an the other online streaming services are a great idea but a bit late to the party for me.

I get around 60 channels with 4 tuners, 4TB of DVR storage, and can playback recorded or live TV to every device in my house. The initial investment was only a few hundred, most of that going to the PC.

Of course YMMV, but here's my setup:

Hardware

• 1x GE 33692 Attic Mount HD Antenna
  
  
• 2x HDHR Connect OTA Tuners
  
  
• 1x Splitter
  
  
• 1x 4 port GbE Switch (Uplink to WIFI router)
  
  
• 1x PC ( i5, 8GB Ram, 128GB SSD C: (OS, Guide), 4TB RAID 0 D: (Recordings), 1Gb Ethernet
  
  
• Multiple RG6 cables of various lengths
  
  Software
  
  TV "Server"
  
  
• Windows 10
  
  
• Sophos Home AntiVirus (Set to ignore D:)
  
  
• Windows Media Center
  
  
• ServerWMC
  
  
• (Optional) My Channel Logos
  
  Receivers
  
  
• Kodi
  
  
• pvrWMC Plugin (built into Kodi)
  
  
• VORKE Z1
  
  I have the Z1 connected to my TV that runs Kodi, and all of the other devices have Kodi installed from Kodi.tv or an app store.
  
  Basic setup
  
  
• Antenna in the attic aimed with the assistance of TVFool
  
• Short RG6 cable run to the splitter (boost it with an amp if more than 15 feet)
  
• 1 foot RG6 from the splitter to each HDHR Connect
  
• HDHR connects to switch
  
• PC to switch
  
• Connect a switch port to a LAN port on the router.
  
• Install Windows and set up recorder storage
  
• Install HDHR software
  
• Install WMC
  
• Set up WMC to your zip code
  
• Test live TV
  
• Run My Channel Logos and populate WMC
  
• Set up ServerWMC
  
• Set up Kodi on another machine
  
• Test
  
• ???
  
• Profit
  
  One day old guide screenshots
  
  Channels 2-9: http://i.imgur.com/qBhGVt8.jpg
  
  Channels 15-24: http://i.imgur.com/rywn87O.jpg
  
  Channels 24-29: http://i.imgur.com/wGK6t62.jpg
  
  Channels 29-45: http://i.imgur.com/XCqGXdL.jpg
  
  Channels 45-52: http://i.imgur.com/zInsWoG.jpg
  
  Channels 55-56: http://i.imgur.com/QmYLnQh.jpg
  
  Channels 56-65: http://i.imgur.com/UenOhUl.jpg
  
  Channels 65-68: http://i.imgur.com/RRwLFrF.jpg

You can try an hdmi splitter but copyright laws may prevent you from multiplying the signal. That's why bars spend thousands on equipment because each tv needs its own receiver.

My recommendation:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00F5R9TNM/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1485968837&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=hdmi%2Bsplitter%2B1%2Bin%2B2%2Bout&dpPl=1&dpID=412GDbyCYBL&ref=plSrch&th=1&psc=1

Although this is your best bet there is still a chance of copyright signaling preventing the duplication of a second signal.

Source: Low voltage Audio visual technician

I'm using a Slingbox 500 with my Spectrum cable box (HDMI only) and I can confirm that this HDMI strips HDCP, allowing you to stream via HDMI from your Slingbox.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00F5R9TNM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_xOLKDb9QMBTWK

If you're only steaming cable, I wouldn't worry about HDMI 2.0. We're not taking 10-bit HDR, 4k, or high-frame rate content, but rather super compressed cable at max 1080i60.

Alright, had the splitter about two days. Call me superstitious, but I was concerned it would effect input lag, but I haven't noticed any difference in a few hours of Battlefield 1.

I can't seem to get the HDMI-CEC to work anymore, but really I wasn't hopeful. (I flipped HDMI-CEC on/off and now tv doesn't seem to receive it for either input. That's ok; I think it's asking a lot of a $20 splitter to detect current input and intelligently route HDMI-CEC there.)

I did have to enable HDR on the tv for both inputs in tv config in order to get HDR on just one input. But once I did the HDR comes on.

The Samsung likes to auto-detect and rename my input labels, so I've given up trying to rename them things like "PSHDR" and "PS."

Overall, does what I hoped it would and no surprising adverse effects. This is the one I got, BTW: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00F5R9TNM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Just as a heads up, you can easily bypass the HDCP issue by using this in between your PS3 and your Elgato:

https://www.amazon.com/ViewHD-Powered-Splitter-1080P-Model/dp/B004F9LVXC

I use it to stream PS3/PS4, works like a charm.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004F9LVXC/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&th=1

That's the one I use. Works great.

It even says supports HDCP in the description

Rocketfish won't work for you, I tried the exact same thing. Return that one, and get this one from amazon: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004F9LVXC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I literally did exactly what you did: Saw the video, ran to Best Buy and picked up the RocketFish one, got home, and got pissed that it didn't work. I grabbed that (much cheaper) one from Amazon, and it works like a charm.

I have used this HDMI splitter for a couple of months to split the single from 1080p security cameras to two monitors and it works perfectly.

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B005HXFARS

A receiver has a built-in DAC and would house all the inputs/outputs you would need for audio/visual - it would certainly be the simplest route to take.

You could look for a receiver with dual outputs, or just get an adapter like this one: http://www.amazon.com/EnjoyGadgets-EGHSP1X2-Splitter-Amplifier-Display/dp/B00997MYR2

Your soundbar is most likely powered, so you wouldn't use it with the receiver. I'd get discrete speakers.

Some receivers (like this one http://www.accessories4less.com/make-a-store/item/denavr1513/denon-avr-1513-5.1ch-home-theater-receiver-3d-ready/1.html) have a headphone jack up front if you wish to connect headphones.

Just a guess but to fix washed out colors it sounds like the signal needs to be amplified, maybe something like this

Hello All-- To play the xbox one x at 4k and record at 1080/60, we can use the gofanco 4ksplittter/scaler. This device is a plug and play from amazon that requires no setup other than just plugging in the hdmi's. Only $55 which is really good considering comparable equipment to get this task done.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B079HJWF31/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

yes you can but if its for that purpose i would simply use a 1x2 hdmi splitter, which would do the same thing as a monitor 2.

http://www.amazon.com/J-Tech-Digital-JTD-MINI-1x2SP-Splitter-Capability/dp/B008D66RAU/

the zone 2 works a bit different, and has more features such as running two different HDMI sources to the TV and projector.

however, if you want the same audio to come out of the speakers while the picture goes to zone 2, there are some drawbacks:

1. the projector will still get audio so you need to turn the projector speakers off if it has any.
   
   
2. you must select main zone source and then set the zone 2 source to the same input. it doesnt automatically follow the main zone. its just one extra step.
   
   
3. when the Main Zone and the Zone 2 are on the same source, the AVR sets its EDID information to be 2ch PCM compatible in order to send the audio to the projector. that means that devices that automatically adjust their audio output based off the EDID information will stop outputting 5.1. if you use a player that can manually set its output formats, then you are fine, but a set top box or blu ray player that automatically sets its output format based on the capabilities it detects from the AVR will switch to 2ch. basically except for a PS3/4 and an computer, i think they will all automatically switch to 2ch.
   
   so for your purposes i think the above linked switchbox will be best and ignore the zone 2 hdmi.

I use the "ViewHD" HDMI splitter. I was into game capture stuff on PS3 and literally everything that comes out of the PS3 HDMI is HDCP protected.
Here's an Amazon link
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004F9LVXC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_dp_T1_ec7GzbV5GZY03

Also, I would highly recommend the Elgato Game Capture HD60 Pro, the video latency so low you can game while viewing the capture software on a pc monitor instead of having a second tv/monitor to view the live gaming video and a pc monitor to view/record from a game capture device, if that makes sense.

Second one is what I have (or very similar I think they are all made by the same supplier) and it works perfectly, for the PS4 as well.

I had this issue as well (with an old TV and a new Roku). I used this as a pass-through, works perfectly.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004F9LVXC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

You might be able to use a device like this to split the HDMI from the console into two HDMI signals:

http://www.amazon.com/EnjoyGadgets-EGHSP1X2-Splitter-Amplifier-Display/dp/B00997MYR2

Then one HDMI signal gets converted to RCA and then goes to your capture card/PC. The other HDMI signal goes to your TV.

HD capture cards like the Elgato work similarly. They have HDMI in from the console and HDMI out to the TV, as well as USB out to the computer.

I have no experience using this (I've only split a signal 3 times), but it looks like the solution you want.

8-way HDMI splitter

Totally. Pretty sure this is the one i bought,

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01CCMOMM0/ref=mp_s_a_1_26?ie=UTF8&qid=1521067160&sr=8-26&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=hdmi+splitters

Inexpensive and did the job.

For anyone wanting a slightly more in-depth description, the PS3 and PS4 both and HDCP encryption on their HDMI Outs. PS4 was delivered a toggle in a patch that will turn off HDCP and turn off the ability to access blu-rays and video streaming apps. PS3 never had this option removed, so to record with a system like an El Gato you would need to reset the PS3 and have it output over D-Terminal (that may be wrong, I just call it my capture wire) into the El Gato, and then into the TV through HDMI. PS3 is very complicated for a first time recorder, so I can understand how you may just jump ship. HDCP can be broken using certain HDMI Splitters though. If you were ever looking for one I've heard good thing about this one. Cheers!

HDMI splitter but also HDCP stripper:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004F9LVXC/


Come to think of it, a dedicated HDMI->HDMI HDCP stripper would make for a fun FPGA project. Only problem is extracting the keys from the donor.

You need an HDMI distribution amplifier, sometime erroneously referred to as an HDMI splitter. Amazon has a bunch. The best part is, they're mostly powered by a 5 volt wall-wart. And guess what else provides 5 volts. USB! So get yourself a USB to DC jack cable and power it from an extra USB port or a cell phone battery.

I use this one from amazon and it works great haven't had any issues with it

http://www.amazon.com/J-Tech-Digital-Registered-Trademark-Capability/dp/B008D66RAU/ref=sr_1_16?ie=UTF8&qid=1393766509&sr=8-16&keywords=Hdmi+splitter

Even with a product like this?

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005HXFARS/?ref=idea_lv_dp_ov_d

It looks to be advertised to send one HDMI signal to two separate monitors. Maybe I'm just misreading.

edit; after reading down further in the Q&A it looks like you're right. I have two Thunderbolt 3 ports on my Macbook. So you're saying I should get two of those adapters, and go one cable into each monitor? Will this charge my laptop while it's plugged in? And how could I integrate the hub so that I can permanently leave my keyboard/mouse wireless connector in there? I would be out of USB C connections in my MacBook if I ran them both to monitors.

Update 7/5/19

https://i.imgur.com/ObFWt9l.jpg

found this in my crawlspace. replaced the splitter since it was all rusted and dirty. I figured that was causing some issues with my coaxial line. after replacing with another MOCA splitter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0113JAN8K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_2cLhDbV0MB6Y8, I still can't get a link connection with MOCA devices installed on both ends.

​

In order to do another test to make sure the line was live and active.

I just took off the modem from my room... disconnected everything and move the modem to my living room. Plugged the coaxial from the living room into the modem to see if I can get a active internet signal on the modem. I was able to get signal on the modem and hit a download of 940mbps. Previously, with the rusted splitter, I was barely getting 1-5mbps download. But when I connect everything back to my room and add MOCA to both rooms, I get no MOCA sync light.

​

Is it true that I should terminate the unused ports with a cap? Could that be causing me to not get a MOCA link?

What TV service do you have? I got my parents an Xbox One S awhile ago and it was doing the same thing with their DIRECTV receiver. The only way I was able to fix it was to put a HDMI Splitter in between the receiver and Xbox and now it works perfect. They don't have 4K so you might want to look for one if your able to get 4K from your tv provider.

Something like this. That link is for a powered/amplified version as it never hurts.

You can also use a regular 8 port splitter like this.

The HDMI port on the ASUS VG248QE is limited to 60 Hz. HDMI to DVI adapters will be limited to 60 Hz. You can get up to 1080p 120 Hz with a DisplayPort to HDMI active adapter like this.

But it would be better to simply return it and get a monitor that supports 144 Hz over HDMI like the ViewSonic XG2401. The VG248QE is highly outdated and a terrible value, it is inferior to other same-price monitors in many ways, and the 60-Hz HDMI limit is one of them.

Nope, I'm talking about this splitter:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004F9LVXC/

Not sure where you got the other one from. And I'm using the Micomsoft SC-512N1-L/DVI capture card, which is indeed epic and awesome... but doesn't strip HDCP.

Try picking up that splitter (for about $20 it's not exactly a high-ticket risk after all) and try again. It's pretty well-known as a working HDCP stripper.

With the HD60 Pro I downloaded the Elgato software just so the drivers were for sure installed. When it came to using a PS4, I had to disable HDCP on the system for it to work perfectly. But because a PS3 has permanent HDCP, you have to use a splitter to strip away the HDCP. This is the splitter I have. So I'm using 3 HDMI cables: (1) PS3 to Splitter Input, (2) Splitter Output 1 to Elgato, and (3) Splitter Output 2 to Monitor. It is finicky, but there's no issues recording or streaming.

Thanks for subscribing btw! I'm recording Nier on my channel right now, which is using this exact setup.

I bought this: http://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B008D66RAU/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Worked perfectly and does what you want to do.

Now the wife can turn on the TV and watch it normally and when I'm home I turn on the Xbox One and watch TV without having to change anything

I ordered this one a few months ago, works like a charm!

Sounds like it should. I have a similar setup. Mine goes
Fios ONT>coax>splitter>moca box> one side goes to my router/Other end goes out to another splitter that feeds the rest of the house. Then there are moca devices at each point I want signal.

From what I've read, you'll need to add a filter to prevent your signal from going out to other homes, unless you're on fios, then you don't need to.

For reference, here is the splitter and moca boxes I use and I havent had issues. The specific splitter I have says unvailable, but you should be able to get nother one with the same specs easily.

Splitter

Motorola Moca Adapter

Just wanted to give my 2 cents. Had a TV that did not support hdcp (5.2.5). Bought an HDMI splitter, now hdcp compliant Netflix works again. The splitter I bought https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004F9LVXC/ref=mp_s_a_1_

Good luck

Instead of a simple T connector a 2 way coaxial TV splitter for SAT-TV or CATV will cost you around 3 USD and will provide correct matching and insolation. http://www.amazon.com/EXTREME-DIGITAL-PERFORMANCE-CABLE-SPLITTER/dp/B007YV0UQW

It will fit nicely with RG6 common F connectors and with ebay pigtails (MMCX-F) for TV usb dongles.

Yeah, don’t use an optical splitter. Switch only has LPCM sound which will only be 2 channel on optical. Optical can only support 5.1 if it’s encoded with Dolby Digital or DTS and the Switch can’t use either (cus nintendo is cheap I guess). You COULD use an HDMI matrix like this guy

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008D66RAU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Ix2ZAb0ZW1FK3

I can’t personally vouch for that particular piece, but I do use a 4 input, 2 output monoprice matrix myself (for reasons) and it works fine

You could try something like this. There are probably better ones, that's just one of the first ones I saw.

There are ways around the HDCP. I use [this] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004F9LVXC/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1) with my Elgato HD and it works great!

No problem yo. Sure I'll link you some things.

This is an HDMI splitter. The one I got.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004F9LVXC/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This is the capture device I got.
https://www.elgato.com/en/gaming/game-capture-hd60

I got mine from Amazon.com though, I believe the price was a bit lower and also I have an Amazon credit card anyways. They have four diffferent capture devices priced differently with different specifications to suit your needs.

If you want to go with an elgato this should help you.
https://www.elgato.com/en/gaming/capture-card-selector

This is my YouTube channel. Any recording of PS4/PS Vita in the past few months has been done using my capture device.
https://www.youtube.com/c/EnigmaticEntertainment

Hope it helps.

Never tried it with an adapter, but out of curiosity... what's your upper limit on pricing? I found a pretty cheap $25 one at http://www.amazon.com/HD-102-Powered-Splitter-Certified-Support/dp/B005HXFARS/

Well most capture cards like the Live Gamer HD (C985 - what I use) use an HDMI Passthrough. Although you're going to have to also get an HDMI Splitter to alleviate the HDCP issues....but I wouldn't necessarily say there's any input lag. That, paired up with Xsplit Broadcaster / Gamecaster Console Viewer actually works fairly well. I wouldn't say I have any experience with playing a rhythm games on it, but I will say that playing other games that are lag-sensitive (Street Fighter), I don't have any issues. Check it out.
Splitter
Live Gamer HD

The one I use is this. Amazon link so you can compare to your eBay ones. It doesn't necessarily say that it removes HDCP, but It's the one everyone recommends. The reviews do say that some didn't work, so it's usually a small chance you'll get an upgraded model that doesn't strip the HDCP.

Yes. You will need an HDMI splitter. They run about $20 bucks I recommend this one. http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005HXFARS/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?qid=1451327597&sr=8-4&pi=AC_SX220_SY330_QL65&keywords=hdmi+splitter&dpPl=1&dpID=412GDbyCYBL&ref=plSrch

I ordered this one, works like a charm.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008D66RAU/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00LM4IJ60/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_f8FGDb4H67RFZ

This is what I use, works like a charm.

I've used this powered splitter for my consoles so it's worth checking out: HDMI Splitter 2 Way Hdmi Splitter 1 in 2 out 1080P Full HD for 3D HDTV SKY HD PS4 Xbox360 Elite Virgin + Blu-ray Player DVD HD Camcorder HTPC Laptop Satellite https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00LM4IJ60/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_31QRAb66SC3Y1

As for converting to vga, I use something similar to this: Active HDMI to VGA Adapter with Audio, Benfei HDMI to VGA Converter Gold-Plated Cord with Audio for Laptop, XBox 360 One, PS4 PS3 https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01KLKQN9U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_k5QRAbJNE3GC5

I've Jerry rigged enough setups to know the hassle, hopefully these can help :-)

I use a HDMI Splitter for my setup when I record Gameplay footage for my Youtube Channel.

Currently I own this and never failed me since,
http://www.amazon.com/HD-102-Powered-Splitter-Certified-Support/dp/B005HXFARS/ref=sr_1_5?s=audio-video-accessories&ie=UTF8&qid=1450792526&sr=1-5&keywords=hdmi+splitter

It is powered but its good.

I have an HDCP stripper / HDMI splitter which I use to send video feeds from PS3/PS4/Nintendo Switch systems to a capture card and a screen. Splitters often offer HDCP stripping just check whatever you buy. This is the one I use. It's called the "ViewHD Ultra HD | 4K HDMI 1x2 Mini Powered Splitter | HDMI v1.4 | Model: VHD-Pluto", and it works fine. I am sure most are fine just stay away from 10$ items, i have been burned by them in the past.

I have this one: [OREI HD-102 1x2 1 Port HDMI Powered Splitter] (http://www.amazon.com/HD-102-Powered-Splitter-Certified-Support/dp/B005HXFARS?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00)

Works great, and I'm using it for this exact purpose.

https://www.amazon.com/HD-102-Powered-Splitter-Certified-Support/dp/B005HXFARS

You would want something like that, I'm sure you could find one with only two if you looked

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005HXFARS?pc_redir=1410063791&robot_redir=1

I bought this one awhile back for the same reason as you and it works great.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005HXFARS/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This is what you need. I have it. It works great.

The little device connected to the back of the modem/router with the incoming coax on the other side may be a MoCA filter.

I think that you would just need to get a MoCA-supported splitter like this one (or one with more outputs if you think you need that) and plug the coax from outside along with the MoCA filter into its input then plug the TG1682G into one of its outputs and the coax that runs to the room where you would like to provide access to the network via MoCA into its other output.

Plug an Actiontec/Motorola MoCA adapter in to the other end of the coax in that room and its Ethernet jack should then provide access to your network.

The “splitter” with the orange label is the hub and will need to stay, but you can replace the other one. It is moca only so it doesn’t need to be anything special, just buy one with the highest upper end frequency you can find for a decent price with the number of ports you need. I believe moca 2.0 goes up to around 1500-1750 MHz.

16 - MagiDeal 16 Way Vertical Splitter Coaxial 5-2400 MHz HDTV Digital TV Coax https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079KSD1ZY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Iqq5BbV8BXKKX

8 - BAMF 8-Way Coax Cable Splitter Bi-Directional MoCA 5-2300MHz https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M34OZ2S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_6rq5BbNHNZCS5

Terminate the unused ports with - Mumaxun 10pcs F Type 75 Ohm Terminator Coax Cap for Coaxial Networks Cable TV https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CPSX285/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_3tq5BbF3KTQ67

The problem with trying to record from a PS3 with a capture device through the HDMI is the HDCP, which is basically encryption. If you get a splitter like this or something similar, it can take care of the HDCP for you if you plug it in between the PS3 and the capture device. Make sure you have a TV or monitor plugged into the splitter's other output, though, as the splitter may cause funky things to happen if you don't. Also, you should know that regardless of your bandwidth constraints and such most PS3 games are 720p and not 1080p.

personally, avoid anything "gold" ... the splitters that comcast uses in my town are these: https://www.amazon.com/Extreme-Digital-Performance-Splitter-BDS102H/dp/B007YV0UQW ... but if you go to an xfinity store they'd probably give you one for free.

http://www.amazon.com/EnjoyGadgets-EGHSP1X2-Splitter-Amplifier-Display/dp/B00997MYR2

If you wanted to get a different model make sure it supports sound, some of the cheaper ones only split the video.

Antronix CMC2002H

That's what we install in every location. Antronix makes good splitters, made of real metal. They are very solid and durable.

Edit : I work for a cable ISP, hint hint.

Onkyo TX-SR308. Like I said. I'm fairly sure it doesn't support cross-input (or whatever the technical term for that would be).

At first I was considering something like this but as I continued to read I gathered that such an idea can be pretty hazardous to the components. I know that stereo piggyback cables exist, so why not video piggybacks? I haven't been able to find anything, but I appreciate any digging on your part.

My options, as I see them (with disadvantages in parentheses), at this point are:

• Manually switch component and composite cables depending on what I want to play (takes time, not at all smooth, generally inconvenient, given enough time, increased risk of damaging something).
  
  
• Buying a switch box and plugging in the composite and component signals (costs a noticeable bit of money, would equal three boxes total in my system and two in any given pathway - lag?).

I had a Roku plugged in to the ATEM directly. Wouldn’t display anything. Hook it up directly to a TV and it worked fine. Put the Roku through the Splitter and it magically works. Same thing with the Apple TV and the passive HDMI to DVI cable to the TV. It’s stripping the HDCP for certain.


ViewHD 2 Port 1x2 Powered HDMI Mini Splitter for 1080P & 3D | Model: VHD-1X2MN3D


https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004F9LVXC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_buExDbD2PYE9G

The PS3 has HDCP which prevents the capture card from viewing the signal. Unfortunately, unlike the PS4, HDCP can't be disabled on the PS3. You'll need to strip HDCP from the signal. Luckily, that can be achieved relatively simply with an HDMI splitter that "accidentally" also removes HDCP, like this ViewHD one:

https://www.amazon.com/ViewHD-Powered-Splitter-1080P-Model/dp/B004F9LVXC

I have had success with this one:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004F9LVXC/

The thing you are presently using will definitely not work. It's the "wrong way". You have 3 Inputs and 1 output. The goal of the splitter you are trying to use is to plug multiple devices in 1 tv. For example, plugging 1 Xbox one, 1 Xbox 360 and a Blueray player in the 3 "Inputs", and the "Outputs" goes in the TV. Meant to be used with TV that doesn't have enough HDMI input to plug all your stuff.
You will need something more like this: http://www.amazon.com/HD-102-Powered-Splitter-Certified-Support/dp/B005HXFARS/ref=sr_1_5?s=audio-video-accessories&ie=UTF8&qid=1450792526&sr=1-5&keywords=hdmi+splitter or any splitter that has 1 input and 2 output. Check for that controller range tho to make sure it will work out.

Aside from what everyone else has advised, you are missing the USB cable between the Tivo and the Tuning Adaptor, you should also use a splitter so you go from Cable line, to 2-way splitter. From 2-way splitter to TiVo and 2-way splitter to Tuning Adapter. In my case, the Tuning Adapter was introducing so much loss in its passthrough connection that I was getting all kinds of pixelation and signal drop. Also, get a good quality splitter if the cable company did not provide one. (They did for me in my self-install box but I tried to not use it.) This is a good one: https://www.amazon.com/Premium-Coaxial-Splitter-Bidirectional-Communications/dp/B00NE0G23W/

ok so the deal is

look on one of your splitters and it will say -3.5db if its a 1 in 2 out splitter

that means you are losing 3.5db of signal .. theoretically that means you are losing 50% of your signal.

splitters that have more ports have a higher db loss... some are as bad as -11db on a 8port splitter like this

https://www.amazon.com/BAMF-8-Way-Splitter-Bi-Directional-5-2300MHz/dp/B01M34OZ2S/

so that splitter would really suck for antenna signals but for cabletv the cable company can adjust their amp outside to pump enough power to get to your home.. unfortunately for cable modems they need a return path so some of those 8 port splitters will have a single port that has much less gain and they hook your cable modem to that..

ok so thats splitters

coax cable also has attenuation problems... the longer the cable the weaker the signal until it is too weak to get to the other side. it is trying to push electrons / small amounts of electricity that the antenna picks up.. push it through the wire.. but it can't after a while.

Theoretical is 300 feet maximum but that is only with the strongest signals such as cable tv.. after 300 feet you need to use an amplifier in the run of coax.

100 feet of cable is supposedly -1 db loss but bad connectors really cause problems .. you need to use the waterproof connectors not the old crimp on type and you have to get that white center insulator all the way up flush after your crimp.

https://www.amazon.com/Coax-Crimper-Compression-Stripper-Connectors/dp/B06W5G64VQ

So in your situation you probably have weak to reasonable signals

and you are trying to push them through splitters and long lengths of coax and blah and loose connectors and ...

so what they make is a preamplifier.

https://www.amazon.com/Channel-Master-CM-7777-Antenna-Preamplifier/dp/B000GGKOG8/

this is when you take about 3 feet of coax off of the antenna.. shortest is best.. and then you attach an amplifier that takes your signals and pushes them through the long lengths of coax and through the splitters.

to power the preamplifier you need to use special power passing splitters ... you put the amp on the antenna.. you bring the coax into your house... you install what is called an Injector that shoots dc power up to the amp to power it... but only some splitters will allow power to pass through them so you have to get the ones that say power passing on all ports and the splitter has to be bidirectional ... like this one

https://www.amazon.com/CHANNEL-2532-2-Way-Splitter-Combiner/dp/B00006JPE1/

​

so now you have that preamp boosting your fresh off the antenna signals 26db... use to be 30.. the ones i have are 30 but the new ones are 26 which is still good...

hopefully that is enough power to get to your rooms

However in my case it is not since I am 60+ miles out from the broadcast towers

So instead of splitting the coax with splitters I have to run a distribution amplifier.

so I have

Antenna - preamp - 50foot coax to the injector - distribution amp - single coax lines to each room

a distribution amp cuts out the need for splitters and it amps the signal a tiny bit more to get it through the coax to each room.

I run a 8port distribution amp

https://www.amazon.com/Channel-Master-Distribution-Amplifier-Antenna/dp/B002M1EPL0

the fewer the ports the stronger the distribution amp is going to be but i need more than 4 ports out.. i don't have that many TVs but I did wire rooms that don't have TVs because why not.. also i tried a 4 port to try to get a bit more signal and there was not much improvement so 8port is what I need.. 3 bedrooms, basement, kitchen, living room and the house is all wired.. some day i will setup my DVR again and put it on an unused port

​

so thats the deal man .. heh

it would be good if you could provide your www.rabbitears.info search results as I could tell you the best situation..

but you do need to limit your use of splitters and I would guess a preamp is really in your future

go do this

https://www.rabbitears.info/searchmap.php

then put the link here

First, questions.

• Why are your monitors all using different connections? Are they all different models? If they're the same, why not just have them all use Displayport?
  
• How far away will the TV be away from the tower? Would you need a cable longer than 6ft to connect them? Considering that the cable will need a good amount of slack for cable management, as well.
  
  Now, a suggestion.
  
  
• If your monitors all have Displayport... ports, just hook them all up to Displayport. If for some reason you can't, or just really don't want to, you'll need a way to connect your HDMI TV to a Displayport. You don't even have to get an adapter box, you can just use a wire with HDMI on one end, Displayport on the other.
  
  Anyway, some options.
  
  
• Software Switch - I'm assuming you use Windows 10. If you do, you can just switch your active screen without having to do anything more than using a Keyboard shortcut. Display Switch (Windows button + P) will allow you to quickly switch your display option, allowing you to quickly turn your TV's input on or off. However, I don't know if this will mess with any of your display settings, it might. If it does, you'd have to fiddle with the other two screens' settings every time you switch back to your desk. If you do this option, by the way, and you keep a keyboard on your rig, you can just use the shortcut to switch between displays.
  
  
• Hardware Switch - An adapter box that switches your output between two screens (like this, for example). You'd have to have to physically press the button each time you switch between your desk and TV (though they do make ones that have a remote), but this way you wouldn't have to worry about any software issues. You'd connect this to your main monitor and the TV, and simply press the button to switch between them. Your PC would re-adjust the resolution for you (it would detect that the screen its outputting to changes), but other than that it wouldn't have an affect on it, it would just think that your middle monitor is now the TV. You'd still only be projecting the game screen to one display at a time, so it wouldn't have any affect on the game's performance.
  
  
• Software Mirroring - Exactly as it sounds. One of the options in the Display Switch panel is Duplicate, which mirrors your main monitor's output to your TV. You could just leave this on, and just turn your TV on or off as needed. The only problem is that since your system would be outputting the game to two displays, it may have a negative affect on the system's performance. This is the option I don't recommend.
  
  
• Hardware Splitter - A box that takes one input and mirrors it to two outputs (example). It wouldn't be a switch, it would just constantly mirror the output to two displays. The difference is that your GPU would only be making one output, the box is just sending the signal to two displays. This way, it shouldn't have an affect on your PC's performance. Just turn the TV on and off as needed.
  
  
• Separate System - This is the extreme option, having a separate PC for your rig entirely. If the only games you play on your PC are racing sims, you could just use your current PC for the rig and have a new PC for your desk, its specs depending on what kind of work you do with it. While this is, again, the logical extreme solution... it's not necessarily unreasonable to have separate systems for work and play.
  
  
  
  ^(Notes)
  
  ^(- None of these options should introduce lag, but if you get a splitter or switch box, make sure they're noted with low-latency and check the reviews.)
  
  ^(- You could stream the game to your TV with something like the Steam Link... but your TV is in the same room as the PC-- hell from the sounds of it, it's within the same arm's reach as the TV. Streaming it is alright if the system and the TV were across the house, but its a needlessly complicated and clunky idea in this situation.)
  
  ^(- If you do use a hardware solution, keep in mind that the small consumer boxes can only use cables of a reasonable length. Generally speaking, you shouldn't use a cable longer than 9ft from the box to your TV, or the wire won't carry the signal to the display. Longer than that, you'll probably need a) ^(signal repeater)^(.)
  
  
  
  If you have any questions, let me know. I hope this helps you find your answer.
  
  EDIT: More info.

You can get separate HDMI converters that will work with any Capture Card. Here are a few from Amazon (I own each of these except the component one, and they work fine):

Component to HDMI Converter

Composite AV to HDMI Converter

HDMI Splitter

The splitter is nice to have, you can use it to enforce compatibility with the PS3, which usually has HDCP issues with capture cards.

Hopefully you can find $2 more. I have this $22 splitter and it works fine.

http://www.amazon.com/HD-102-Powered-Splitter-Certified-Support/dp/B005HXFARS/

OHHHH thanks so then is this what im looking for?

http://www.amazon.com/HD-102-Powered-Splitter-Certified-Support/dp/B005HXFARS/ref=sr_1_6?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1418727676&sr=1-6&keywords=hdmi+splitter+1+out+2+in


or even this

> I could go from cable company coax -> modem -> router -> LAN -> the motorola device -> MoCA hub

Are you intending to keep the coax from the cable company and your MoCA network separate? That is fine but normally people want to use the same coax for both which is why the adapter has a passthrough.

> https://www.amazon.com/BAMF-8-Way-Splitter-Bi-Directional-5-2300MHz/dp/B01M34OZ2S

That is fine but you should only split as many times as you need to but not more. If you are not going to have 8 connections get a smaller splitter.

> from there I can add up to 16 motorola adapters around the house at the destinations?

16 total, the initial one counts so 15 more.

Yes. You can split HDMI to multiple screens. But all the screens have the exact same content. I split my cable boxes HDMI out to multiple screens and my PC's HDMI output to 2 screens too.

I bought a powered "1x2 HDMI splitter" on amazon. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00F5R9TNM/ref=mp_s_a_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1483642867&sr=8-7&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=1x2+hdmi+splitter&dpPl=1&dpID=41WFEFz%2BVwL&ref=plSrch

Okay, so I've had a quick look and it seems like this is just a normal set up.

PS4 -> HDMI Splitter (here's a cheap one)

HDMI Splitter Output 1 -> Blackmagic Intensity

HDMI Splitter Output 2 -> Your Monitor / TV

Blackmagic Intensity plugs into your PC as normal, and your stream from there.

You'll need 2 Monitors/TV's (one for the PC and one for the PS4)
You'll also need 3 HDMI cables.

Let me know if you have any issues.

Cable Modem & MOCA Premium Coaxial 2-way Splitter ideal for Bidirectional RG-6 RG-59 Communications https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NE0G23W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_AafDCb5GPA84G

I googled: http://lmgtfy.com/?q=component+splitter and found these from amazon.

http://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-3-RCA-Component-Splitter-102848/dp/B000RJJ0XW

http://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-103002-Coupler-Component-Extension/dp/B002KCKX8K/ref=pd_tcs_compl_pc_4?ie=UTF8&refRID=0Z5E5ZC59XC2DNEJ61BB

You would use the coupler to connect your 360 to the splitter then you would need two sets of component cables go to to your HDPVR and Monitor. If your monitor needs DVI, i'm sure there are Component to DVI cables out there.

I'll be splitting with 1 side dedicated to the internet modem and the other going to the same splitter already there, just taking the place of the DirecTV input. It has 4 outputs. I've decided on this splitter. Splitter
Was planning on just attaching the ground to this. Is that not correct?

I use Elgato HD60 (not the new S variant) for PS2, PS3, PS4 and Wii. Whenever pound decides to makes a new version of the hdmi cable for OG Xbox then I'll be using it on there as well. For the consoles without an HDMI output I use a converter/upscaler (component to HDMI). If you want to capture from from a PS3/PS4 you need a HDCP stripper: https://www.amazon.com/ViewHD-Powered-Splitter-1080P-Model/dp/B004F9LVXC
The viewHD splitter I've had for over 4 years with no issue.

Just so you know if you plan on using the PS2 with a converter or upscaler while playing 240p games (Megaman X Collection) you need FMCB with GSM to "upscale" the game to a resolution supported by Elgato HD60 (and perhaps your TV).

Alternatively, I see a lot of speedrunners on twitch use https://www.amazon.com/DATA-connection-video-capture-GV-USB2/dp/B00428BF1Y for capturing from Genesis, SNES, Dreamcast etc.

Your current capture card should be fine, you'll just need to use a splitter with it. I recommend the OREI HD-102.

edit: Apparently there is a new version of that splitter and it won't bypass HDCP anymore.

You can use a coax splitter like this one from newegg! (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA8SV3805888) https://www.amazon.com/Premium-Coaxial-Splitter-Bidirectional-Communications/dp/B00NE0G23W/


Edit:Actiontec adapters can be a bit pricey so I used these and have never had a problem with them https://www.amazon.com/Yitong-Technology-Ethernet-Adapter-YTMC-51N1-M2/dp/B019MDRX5A/r

So this - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0113JAN8K/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_T3ktDbSNFQPBT

Should work just fine? for both utilizing the new 4k Signal that Comcast offers as well as the 1gig modem?

As others have said - I'd suggest buying a cheap coax crimping kit, taking your source and converting it to coax, hitting a splitter and have fun as you channel (pun intended) the spirit of Nam June Paik.


People will tell you your coax will start to degrade after splits, but I have done similar installations and never had a problem.

The Helo sounds a bit pricy for me for sure, lol.

The USB point worries me. Here's what Device Manager has to say since I struggled with physically discerning them on my laptop.

I won't be doing any facecam stuff so not concerned about that (nor would I try to stream by pointing a camera at the TV :P)

>All the other Capture devices can be found in between $10-$40 bucks on Amazon. (Retro Consoles)

Very good to know, any specific recommendations there?

> You get no lag with the Elgato card during pass-through viewing, but if you do experience some lag, just split your HDMI Output that leads to your Elgato, and send the split to your TV.

Yeah, I don't tend to notice lag it seems. Still I just wanted to try and be sure about that. Would I be looking for something like this?

This one:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004F9LVXC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Make SURE you get the HDMI 1.3, it has the stripping bug. 1.4 has it fixed. Sometimes they tell you they are selling a 1.3, but you get a 1.4 return it. I was fine, mine worked.

When I first looked into this, you could only get them in England and they cost $250 minimum.

I wasn't about to buy a new TV for DRM, I watched Standard rez for a while, then I couldn't take it anymore and looked again- found this thing. Enjoy.

Unless you have the BenQ RL2460 Monitor, the HDMI splitter does the job. I use This One The Elgato it being powered on by your computer instead of it's on external power so the picture isn't the clearest. You will notice it most with the reds but it's all colors. I highly suggest the one i attached, i have my XB1X to the splitter and use a 4K monitor to play while the HD60S captures in crisp 1080p. There's an option for 2 instead of 4 but this works out for game day with multiple TVs around with a get together.

Oh please. I hate HDCP as much as the next guy but let's not pretend it's a major issue.

If you have hardware that doesn't play nicely with HDCP, just do what people have been doing for the last decade. Hop onto Amazon and buy an HDMI extender or 1x2 distribution amp. They're HDCP compliant on the input and conveniently forget to implement HDCP on the output. Your devices see the DA as the end of the chain so HDCP isn't broken.

Here's the 1080p version for $25. Amazon link

There might already be a 4k version but I haven't needed to find one yet. It's pretty much guaranteed that one will exist at some point.

HDMI 1 in 2 out 4k HDR

https://www.amazon.com/gofanco-Prophecy-Intelligent-60Hz-Splitter/dp/B079HJWF31/

Keep in mind both displays must support the same resolution and HDR unless you want to manually change this every time.

To avoid changing display settings you would need something like the HD Fury Vertex which can output to multiple displays but also convert the video signal into a variety of other formats like 4K HDCP2.2 to 1080p HDCP 1.4.

So I should get an hdmi splitter and split the hdmi output from the cable box to the splitter, then run 3 hdmi to ethernet extenders out to the tv's?

something like 3 of these: https://www.amazon.com/J-Tech-Digital-Extender-Single-Certified/dp/B00G5RBX2Q/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1509549170&sr=1-3&keywords=hdmi+cat6

and 1 of these: https://www.amazon.com/Splitter-Movcle-Adapter-Powered-Certified/dp/B0180PPTNO/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1509549474&sr=1-3&keywords=hdmi+splitter+1x3&dpID=311IVhqkBhL&preST=_SX300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

Honestly I’m not sure if this is any cheaper for you than the other suggested one in this topic, but this one: https://www.amazon.com/HD-102-Powered-Splitter-Certified-Support/dp/B005HXFARS, I was guided to by a YouTube instructional video and it’s worked for me to record PS3 just fine.