Hi, this is simple if your expectations are in line, and unworkable if not.

If you want to run devices that heat or cool with electricity, such as coffeemakers, hotplates, A/C, toasters, hair dryers, etc., you will not make your numbers or anywhere near them. Give that all up. There is a reason whole-house systems cost $30-40k, it is heating and cooling.

Now for the awesome: IT WORKS. I ran 30 feet of LEDs, a laptop, a small but nice stereo, a PoE wireless antenna, a wireless hub, iPhones and iPods, 18v DeWalt battery packs, a fan — plus whatever I am forgetting — off of 2 x 100W solar panels and 2 x 100Ah marine cells for ten weeks. I went dry twice, but with a fully charged laptop, stereo and phone.

First you must go ahead and do all the math of your usage, because we are are still at the stage where we must all do all the math, and math is good, but when you are doing all the math to the third significant digit, and looking up the model of that rechargeable flashlight you like for its charging amperage requirements, maybe say fuck it and start with half that; one beefy panel, one solid battery. You could easily add another panel and battery later.

As to wiring, your charge controller will have connections that include a legend where to hook up your batteries, panels and inverter, so easy peasy there. See the link below for an example. I recommend spending the extra on an MPPT controller, which converts some of your extra juice (the 12V panel below can run almost 19V) that normally is dumped when charging into increased amperage of the charging current. Do the math of your expected load, it's possible you will want a 20A. If it doesn't include fusing directions, go online and find a schematic of where to add inline fuses that, if that are not included, you will get at the auto parts store.

YOU WILL WANT TO DO THE MATH on wire sizes. There are calculators online. For your small setup, the important run is going to be between the battery and the charge controller. This is where the fires start. If you think you will EVER add another battery dig deep and wire for it.

For inverters, I feel better about everything by getting a well-respected pure sinewave unit. I run a Xantrex 600W in my 4Runner and a Cotec 350W for the solar, and they feel bulletproof. You could save a ton, and maybe in this case you should, by getting a cheap modified sinewave one and seeing if it meets your needs. Either way they will have outlets on them, so you don't need to wire it further.

Also, no SLA batteries inside the vehicle unless properly secured, sealed inside, and vented outside.

I also recommend the /r/vandwellers subreddit, it is excellent. This comes up there a lot, although this is the better place for the question.

Solar panel:
http://www.amazon.com/RENOGY-Monocrystalline-Photovoltaic-Battery-Charging/dp/B009Z6CW7O/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1417553121&sr=8-1&keywords=100W+solar+panel

Charge controller (10A likely okay, do your math, I got the 20 amp)
http://www.amazon.com/Tracer1210RN-Solar-Charge-Controller-Regulator/dp/B008KWPGS6/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1417552788&sr=8-2&keywords=mppt+charge+controllers

Invertors:
http://www.amazon.com/COTEK-SK350-112-INVERTER-OUTLETS-CABLES/dp/B006W9IPA0

I'd recommend you take something like this if you don't have one already.

Then some sort of tablet or smart phone.

This way when you're out on the river and find something that's potentially edible, you can snap some pics, upload and get an ID.

This way you can just pack in essential lightweight basics such as rice, beans, pasta, dehydrated eggs, and so on.

Then forage/wild harvest/fish to fill in the gaps.

There's this thing too. It's a fancy little rocket stove. You could build one out of tin cans for free but this one works a little better, it has a built in fan to make it burn better and a TEG(thermo electric generator) that converts some of the heat into electricity that powers a USB plug that you can use to run a small USB light at about 1 watt. Not super bright big good enough to camp with. Or you can charge/power a device.

The rocket stoves are nice. You can cook a whole meal with a handful of twigs.

You very well may know all this stuff, but just in case.. :-D

Absolutely. My favorite completely discreet as well as super easy to use/install are the flexible panels I talked about. They are awesome albeit they are long but they can pretty much replace shingles on your house for the most part.

https://www.amazon.com/Unisolar-Flexible-Solar-Panel-Laminate/dp/B006EP6MCU

This is what my friend got originally for his home in georgia and it worked great. In fact it's so hard to notice that when the power company came out to check out why his meter was going backwards sometimes(he had grid-tie) the meter inspector couldn't notice the panels and so just thought the meter was faulty and kept replacing it until he came by when my buddy was home and started talking about solar.

As for making things nice it's really all up to your imagination. Think about anywhere you want or have shade i/e car cover, awning, porch, garden, shed, etc... and just imagine putting up panels instead of regular stuff. It not only does what you wanted but now you're saving money by doing it.

Now tax write offs might not always be applicable for solar projects if you're DIY but a lot of them still are it just depends on which program you're applying for. As long as the products you're purchasing are inspected and the final project is inspected too i/e pay for an electrical inspector to come out and certify it, you should be absolutely good to go. The big things to look out for are fire hazards, wire gauges, pure sine wave if on-grid and synced to grid, and of course fire protection requirements. Just basically don't leave lots of bare wires and allowing water to spill all over it or fling matches all over it and you're good to go.

For solar, buy anything that is Renogy brand. VERY nice stuff and well respected.

Here's the panel I use:

https://www.amazon.com/Renogy-Watts-Volts-Monocrystalline-Solar/dp/B00DVPPFDS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1484425808&sr=8-1&keywords=renogy+50+watt+panel

And the crappy PWM controller. Bought it because it was cheap. You really want an MPPT controller, but they're expensive and bulky. You can google around for the what and why, but this works for me.

https://www.amazon.com/Docooler-Controller-Battery-Regulator-Protection/dp/B00L37KZI6/ref=sr_1_2?s=exercise-and-fitness&ie=UTF8&qid=1484425831&sr=8-2&keywords=solar+charge+controller

I have a box full of these things though!
https://www.amazon.com/RENOGY-High-Precision-Meter-Power-Analyzer/dp/B00PSQPSWQ/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1484425929&sr=8-2&keywords=renogy+meter

Great to know what's coming from the panel, and coming out of your charge controller to the batter... or how much you're pulling OUT of the battery. 3 is ideal but if I'm out overlanding or camping, I wont use any of them. They're helpful and fun when you're setting up your kit.

That fan is pretty big. Might be better off to send something like this: https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA4M540J4841&ignorebbr=1&nm_mc=KNC-GoogleMKP-PC&cm_mmc=KNC-GoogleMKP-PC-_-pla-_-Fans-_-9SIA4M540J4841&gclid=CjwKCAjw3rfOBRBJEiwAam-GsDsOnkscCXpE8V_GHuxwtDWYpkbYqvLXfxgWZ7BQAPY7KwVNn0S5jRoCge8QAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

Edit: the box fan you mentioned uses 120w and needs an inverter to operate vs the camping fan above is 12w and works on 12V DC. simpler and easier to get going with less load, though likely less air movement.

or some other 12V camping fan.

as for the solar, look for something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Portable-Foldable-SunPower-Smartphones-Batteries/dp/B07432VBX8/ref=sr_1_4?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1506716539&sr=1-4&keywords=60w+camping+solar

it has clamps to charge a battery will fold up for your shipping and is easy to set up.

The most recommended setup I see from other vandwellers in Renogy. They make pretty much everything you need, and it's competitively priced.
You can buy a kit and have almost everything you need but a battery or you can build from scratch. The big components are deep cycle battery, panel, charge controller. There are obviously lots of other smaller things you'll need as well such as fuses, wires, mounting brackets, etc.

This option is much more cost efficient but also requires a good working knowledge of electrical setups (or the desire to learn them) in order to do it safely.

At Luna we get asked this a lot. So here is some info. I have added this to the knowledge base for Fixed for future reference.

Considerations for adding second battery for more range

Generally speaking this is not advisable. It would require extensive modifications and could compromise the battery. Please note that Luna can not take responsibility for the consequences if you break your bike or battery. There are a few separate proposals, we will discuss each below.

Manually switching batteries: Physically unplugging battery 1 from the controller, then plugging battery 2 into the controller. This would be the most straightforward, and eliminates a lot of potential danger in doing the other methods incorrectly. As long as the second battery is a normal 36v nominal battery that should be fine.

Parallel wiring: The idea here being that you would put another battery in parallel. Generally this is strongly discouraged on bms protected packs unless you are unplugging them from eachother when charging, and are making sure both batteries are identical, and both batteries are same voltage at time of connecting them. Given that this would be difficult to meet these requirements there is another way you might go by using a diode to block current from flowing back into the other battery. This page goes over that in more detail. For a working example of this idea in practice, see this page.

Theoretically you could use Luna remote switches on each battery in that parallel circuit, and switch back and forth by turning the one battery off and then turning the other battery on. This would not be advisable due to the possibility of accidentally not turning the other battery off, which would lead to a massive influx of power which could cause a fire. It might be possible to modify a couple remotes to use the same button with a circuit to control making sure that one remote is always off before another one is turned on, but this is outside the scope of what we can advise on.

Charging integrated battery via the charge port: This is unsafe for multiple reasons. Primarily because any second battery you want to wire up will have a discharge rate ten times higher than the safe charge rate on the charge port. This will burn out the charge port instantly and is also likely to damage the integrated battery on the bike. The port expects something like 2-3A, and another battery can put out 20-30A, maybe higher.

Additionally, as with any BMS-protected battery the charge port is how the battery bms is reset if something trips it. So if you are charging the original battery while in use, if something like a short happens in a cell, (which normally the BMS would protect against by shutting down the battery) you may be forcing it to reset despite it not being safe to do so.

In theory you could limit the current of the discharge on the secondary pack using some custom circuitry, so when you plug into the charge port it is not charging it at some massively high rate of current. For example something like this, which can also do CC/CV charging, an important safety consideration. However, you would still be resetting the BMS on the original battery whenever you are charging it. Do so at your own risk.

Hey, thanks!

I'm going to go into detail on the equipment I bought with my next video (and I've got a really fascinating powerpoint presentation where I try to explain a little electrical theory without putting everyone to sleep). I'll answer your question here though:

I started with a kit that came with the wires you're asking about. The solar panels have those short (2 or 3 feet) wires that end with what's called an MC4 connector. The wires have the MC4 connector on one end, and a bare wire on the other. The MC4 is a weatherproof, snap-on connector.

For the second panel, I had to get the MC4-tipped cables separately. From browsing YouTube, it looks like you can save some money by buying the connectors alone and splicing them onto a wire. I didn't feel like messing with this.

I got all my stuff on Amazon. Here's the list:

• Here's a link to the starter kit I got. It comes with a pair of MC4 cables
  
• A second 100w solar panel, identical to the one that comes with the starter kit
  
• These are the extension cables. MC4 on one end. The other end has nothing - you just strip it and screw it into the terminal on the solar controller
  
• Had to get another set of z-brackets for the second panel too
  
• This is the in-line fuse holder. It takes any automotive fuse. The solar controller specifies a 15A fuse.
  
  The parts for my installation came out to a little over $400.
  
  Hope that helps! :)

You may also look at dual battery under the car. I used to keep a 7AH SLA (sealed lead acid) from a UPS under my passenger seat, plugged into an accessory area of the fuse box. It had leads going out for cig-plugs, to charge phones and leave everything going when the car was off. SLA means there is less chance of off gassing, but they can be expensive, on the other hand, sometimes they are just enough to get the job done and use the main battery up less. Not to mention they can be tipped with no problem, and are sometimes available free from recovered items, such as UPSs, alarm systems or jump packs.


Also look for areas under the car that can hold a spare battery. Keep it away from exhaust and moving parts, but there may be a wealth of space you never even think to use.
I have also seen some of the fold-up panels available, so if you are in a place you can openly camp, like an open campground or a park, you can lay them across the top of the car, or on the ground / against a tree, for some extra charging, especially of a house battery or phone. Also, the flexible panels are more able to be removed and replaced as needed.
https://www.amazon.com/ALLPOWERS-Bendable-Flexible-SunPower-Irregular/dp/B013DZWDI0/

With your starter battery double duty, you may want to look at a good deep cycle, especially if you can fit in a bigger one, as deep cycle tends to lose cold cranking amps as you gain deep stability.


Spent a while out there, myself, and want to prepare if I ever have to do it again.

Definitely check out couchsurfing.org and create a profile and try to connect with some folks. I'm sure you could spend 2 nights one place, 2 nights another, or maybe even all week in one place.

Otherwise, you could also stay at the Minneapolis International Hostel which has some pretty low rates.

Uptown would be a good place to stay, I think and you could take a bus into town for some stuff. There are free publications all over downtown that have different events and shit going on.

Check out the MetroTransit Fare Page for getting a week pass for both the light rail / Northstar line / and busses. Not that you'd need to take the Northstar line anywhere...

There is a KOA campground in Maple Grove, Minnesota and according to this Google Maps transit information, it would be a 2.5 mile walk/drive to get to this place from the closest bus stop.

Where are you coming from? You could take the Amtrak into town with your bike, bus out to the campsite... set up shop with said bike. Bike to the bus stop, and most (probably all) buses have bike racks on them... take the 38 minute bus ride into town in the morning, bike around town all day... come back, bike to campsite, relax.

Or rent a bike when in town, and then just walk 2.5 miles to that campsite.

I'd suggest getting a solar charger like this one
if you plan on staying there, so that you can charge your phone in the morning, during the day, etc and will always have a GPS thing. There are so many handy apps to have for navigating around the area, finding current arts and shows information, connecting with people, etc!

Heck, maybe even make a Craigslist post stating you are looking for a place to stay for a week, or respond to some sublet ads! I'm sure there are some people with an empty room who would gladly take $100 or something so long as you give significant background information!

Lastly, here is a link to a USA Today Article about what to do in Minneapolis in terms of camping and here is another, similar USA Today Article

After considering our discussion on this I can tell you for sure what I would do if I were in your situation. Since you already have a solar system in place and not starting from scratch you will need a DC-DC switching power supply to replace the AC inverter. I still have never seen one for sale that is suitable for mining so I would build my own to run a single ant s9 based on the design I have tested extensively running 2 ant s5. The design to run 2 s5 is pulling about 700 watts so we need to scale that up to do about 1400 watts. To get right to it these are the parts you'll need, I'll explain in a bit how it will need to be put together and how I came to this design in the first place. After I get all that out I will try to answer some of the other questions folks have about a fully stand alone system. For your needs you will only need the DC power supply/switch/regulator.

2 of these (note it's a 5 pack so you'll be getting 10 relays total. 8 will be used) about $28
https://www.amazon.com/Pack-EPAuto-Relay-Harness-Bosch/dp/B017VDI0GY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1468169603&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=12v+relay&psc=1

1 of these about $70
https://www.amazon.com/Tracer-Tracer1210RN-Charge-Controller-Regulator/dp/B008KWPGS6/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1468170133&sr=8-5&keywords=mppt+charge+controller

10 of these about $200
https://www.amazon.com/Nextrox-Converter-Regulator-Step-Down/dp/B00BWKXTUU/ref=sr_1_11?ie=UTF8&qid=1468169653&sr=8-11&keywords=12v+voltage+regulator

Those three items are an mppt charge controller that will be used to control the relays. The 12v relays which will allow you to safely control the power switching and voltage regulators to make sure the power stays clean so as not to damage your gear.

Here's how it goes together, note that all regulators and relays will be hooked in parallel to allow us to get to the desired total amperage;

• DC 12 volt power bus (battery main) gets hooked to the charge controller, powering it up in the 12v range.
  
• Negative bus lead connects to the regulator negative.
  -Positive bus lead connects to relay pass in
  
• Relay pass out 12v positive lead connects to regulator positive.
  
• Relay 'activate power' leads get connected to 'lamp controller' on charge controller.
  
• Regulator positive and negative out connect to miner power cables (pci-e)
  
  Once this is connected as such pressing the orange button on the charge controller front panel will activate the relays allowing power to flow to the regulators which will then even it out and pass it to a secondary bus which will then have the miner power cables hooked to it and power the miners.
  
  By using the lamp controller feature of the charge controller you get low voltage protection. If the batteries get low (even though sounds like you won't have much of a problem with that) the lamp controller will power down the relays and therefore stop the miners. It will automatically reconnect when the battery charge comes back up to safe level.
  
  The idea is to have all this in a box with cooling fans (12v dc case fans) and size it to power a single miner. This box of parts gives you about a 15% efficiency boost over using a big inverter. The cost of an inverter to do this is about $2000, my solution costs about $300, thus dramatically reducing total system costs and allowing a modular approach that will scale while limiting down time due to equipment failure.

Well, based on the spec sheet for that model, it draws .6A at 9vdc, so it should need about 6 watts to run. 6 watts for this, 1 watt for the raspberry... I would go with a ten watt panel to be safe, like this one. Looks like each node will run about $120.

Edit: thinking on it, you would likely need to go to a 15w panel, to allow some variability in power output, and some kind of battery for each. Deep cycle batteries would be best, but golf cart batteries would be pretty useful for this application.

Okay u/DeviatusPod, from the top review on Amazon it looks like that device is happiest at 9v.

You can use a 9v rechargeable battery pack like this. Then you’ll need a male to male adapter like this.

USB doesn’t put out enough voltage.

How long are you leaving it on at a time?

Is it possible? Yes. Is it a good idea? You're an adult, you be the judge!

Flexible 100w solar panels weigh about 5 lbs and are about 2' by 4'. Their maximum power is produced at about 17v, so you'll need a CC/CV MPPT charge controller that can boost the voltage into the 50v range. You can find the Ming He mpt-7210a for $25-35. You'll need one of these for every 10 amps of electricity produced by the panels, but you can easily wire 2 panels in series to double the voltage/halve the amperage, I think you could wire four panels in a 2p/2s configuration and get 300 watts into your battery in full sun. Here are a couple of videos you'll want to check out, since the instructions are inadequate:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mM6JTquNSZU

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RVkehQ_RypI

I wouldn't bother charging while riding, I would take a 2-3 hour noon siesta and get a bit more charging in the evenings. I would get 3 or 4 panels and stack them up on a bike trailer, and then lay them out to charge. In the evenings, you can prop them up with a couple of tent poles or bamboo stakes. Tie them all together and then ram a few pegs into the ground to secure them. You could charge while riding but you probably won't want to lay out 16 square feet of solar panels (wind and all that) and you won't be able to position the panels accurately.

A 48v 10ah battery pack has about 500 watt-hours of energy. With 400 watts of panels, in peak sun, after losses from boosting the voltage, maybe you could get 300 watts into the battery per hour. In theory you could charge the battery in a couple of hours. Solar energy peaks at ~12-1pm, there will be twice as much power (or more) at solar peak as there would be about 2 hours before sunset.

It'll cost you around $200 to get one panel, one charger, and associated wires. Try it and report back!

Parts:

Panel

Controller

Controller to XT60

Panel to controller

Extra wire

I bought a Powerfilm USB+AA charger some time back but have never integrated it into my kit. It's always been easier to simply plan ahead and pack extra batteries. Anyway, the Powerfilm gadget does work fairly well at recharging a pair of Eneloops, and it can also be used to recharge a USB device. I now notice that they've come up with a larger AA charger that supposedly recharges a pair of AA batteries in 3 1/3 hours, but it weighs 8oz.

Great write up by the way, very informative. I'll have to order one of these lights and possibly the Liponano suggested by /u/atetuna.

/edit-just weighed my USB+AA charger, with a pair of AA Eneloops it comes in at 179 grams. There's a lot of room for modification since it has an extra flap of cloth, plastic cover, etc that could be removed.

I think this is super cool.

Spendy, but safer:

http://www.optimabatteries.com/en-us/shop/bluetop/bluetop-group-31-dual-purpose-deep-cycle-and-starting/

Maybe you could stick one of these on the top roof. I like how inconspicuous the rig looks. I'd only worry about peal-off in the wind.

http://www.amazon.com/Unisolar-Flexible-Solar-Panel-Laminate/dp/B006EP6MCU

I didn't see a battery disconnect (aka camper diode aka battery isolator) either (maybe you didn't mention it), but if you run down the rear battery, make sure it doesn't run down the car battery too, thus leaving you stranded. It allows you to recharge via the car battery too. Like a one way valve to protect the truck's battery from accidental discharge.

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/accessories/NOCO-5-x-4-5-x-3-5-in-90-Amp-high-performance-12-48-VDC-gray-battery-isolator/_/N-25wr?itemIdentifier=1333_0_0_

This is the one I use works awesome for charging on thing at a time it does take the day to charge something from empty to full but when shtf itll be a awesome thing to have stick it in the window and your good to go

https://www.google.com/aclk?sa=L&ai=DChcSEwj8pYHhqZfjAhWDGH0KHQ8RAH8YABAIGgJwdg&ae=1&sig=AOD64_2VAhtLNPutr36tjo8xIfIpJ5W_JA&ctype=5&q=&ved=2ahUKEwjXufngqZfjAhUFP30KHW8GDSsQwg96BAgKEAw&adurl=https://www.amazon.ca/Coleman-22007-7-5W-Folding-Panel/dp/B007JU9K32/ref%3Dasc_df_B007JU9K32/%3Ftag%3Dgooglemobshop-20%26linkCode%3Ddf0%26hvadid%3D293002272198%26hvpos%3D1o2%26hvnetw%3Dg%26hvrand%3D16798034189496052952%26hvpone%3D%26hvptwo%3D%26hvqmt%3D%26hvdev%3Dm%26hvdvcmdl%3D%26hvlocint%3D%26hvlocphy%3D9000801%26hvtargid%3Dpla-442020479418%26psc%3D1

You're most welcome! I bought the following:

4x100W Panels

Panel Mounting

Solar Panel Connectors

Tool Crimper

Assembly Tool

Panel Connectors

Power Information

CTEK Charger

CTEK SmartPass

200ah AMG Battery

Fuse Block

300W Pure Sine Wave Inverter

LED Strip

Dometic 35 Fridge


I bought all these items with research into my solar needs and following the advice from here in the vandwelling subreddit and also information I gathered from Amazon. I am probably doing a bit of overkill on my solar setup but I thankfully have the money to do it and don't want to mess with adding anything later.

I will have to do research myself on how to combine the four panels into the battery but that will be a few weeks away so I haven't done much in that area. I do plan to buy 10GA wire from Lowes and use the crimping tool and connectors to form my own wiring harness so it will be clean looking. \

EDIT: Adding info.

I use this setup and it works pretty well.

My ebike is a 52v nominal Bafang BBSHD with a 12ah panasonic GA cell lithium battery.

My solar setup is http://www.powerfilmsolar.com/products/?fm167200_120w_foldable_solar_panel&show=product&productID=271514&productCategoryIDs=6578 for when I am stopped, + https://www.amazon.com/ALLPOWERS-Bendable-Flexible-SunPower-Irregular/dp/B013E07FNM mounted on top of a BOB ibex trailer, this charges the system while riding, and I rigged it so I can set up the powerfilm in parallel for a total of 220watts solar while stopped.

To step up to 56.8 volts (roughly 85% charge on the 52v nominal system) I got a https://genasun.com/products-store/mppt-solar-charge-controllers/golf-cart-solar-charge-boost-controllers/ GVB-8-Li-56.8V-WP


The system works pretty well, if you have time to burn to recharge. Its not as fast as charging from mains, but I have seen it pull 9 amps in full sun, which is pretty dang good for a sub 10 lb total system.

I've never used them, but Flycrates says they will ship to places that Amazon sellers won't. According to this page, the main problems are extra shipping costs, customs forms, and import duties that have to be paid. Flycrates will supposedly do that for you and let you know what import duties will need to be paid up front.

AllPowers makes a flexible 100w solar panel that sells on Amazon, and there are other companies that also sell flexible panels.

I purchased an AllPowers flexible+foldable 80w solar charger panel and a Suaoki 150Wh Solar Generator (lithium battery+inverter) for camping, and it's worked well. It will run a few lights and power a laptop. I did have to custom-make the connector cable between them to charge the Suaoki, however.

Hope that helps!

I designed this kit about 15yrs ago when I worked at Unisolar. (I am a little surprised there are still some available.) It was designed for RV's, but could be used for a tractor trailor.

They could be stick them on top of the trailor. From it you could probably power a small living space and maybe a small refrigerator which would save the cost of idling overnight. The advantage of this product is that it won't break if a rock hits it and don't have to worry about wind uplifting a glass panel.

128W is probably too small, but there are a few kits available !?!

http://www.amazon.com/Unisolar-Flexible-Solar-Panel-Laminate/dp/B006EP6MCU

It'd be much cheaper and more energy efficient if you did everything 12v with no inverter. Phones are easy and most laptops have a 12v charger available for purchase.

Also I recommend something like this for a panel, because of its portability. - Solar Panel, MOHOO 100W 100Watt Bendable Foldable Thin Lightweight Solar Panel Battery Charger with MC4 Connector Charging Sunpower Cells for RV, Boat, Cabin, Off-Grid https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XVWPD7N/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_ig1CzbEJHC1R6

FYI for others considering solar. Flexible solar panels weigh much less and are simple to mount - heavy duty double sided 3M tape. They will fit on curved surfaces great.

100W, $180. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B013E07FNM

When I say repeater, I don't mean something you install. I mean something portable you take with you when you go there, and take away when you leave.

For example, start with a little cooler like this one. Two small 12v batteries (like from a motorcycle) go in the base, wired in series. That gives you 24v power.

From that you can run a NanoStation M series device as the uplink back to your home, and a UAP-AC-Lite as the local access point. Wiring is super simple as the NanoStation M (as long as it's not a Loco) has two Ethernet ports, the second one will (if you tell it to) passthru the PoE. So you use a hacked up cable to feed the NanoStation, and a standard Ethernet cable from the NanoStation's secondary port straight to the UAP-AC-Lite. Use some Velcro ties to attach both units to the top of the cooler handle, put the batteries in the bottom, and you're good to go.

Actually, both the NanoStation M and the UAP-AC-Lite should (according to posts by UBNT employees on their own forum) run on 12v or thereabouts. So a single smaller 12v battery or a lithium pack like this one should power the NanoStation and the UAP-AC-Lite for at least a couple hours.

I'd suggest you make this... it is pretty simple. Off the shelf, the Solar Gens are going to break your budget quick and then no money left for solar.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z-o9XSAfXTw Here's a good DIY. You don't have to have the lcd monitor.

The hardest part is predicting how much power you will need out there. Charging a phone is trivial, but lights can pull big power quick. So you'll need to figure out the lowest wattage you can run... 15watts * 6 hours/night * 5 days = 450Wh, so you'd need something like a 12v 35Ah battery if you don't have solar. BUT if you can get down to 5watts, you only need a 12Ah battery which is MUCH lighter.

So simplest would be a battery, ammo can, and a USB/12v with switch. (This would be like $70 battery, $20 for usb/switch, $12 ammo can)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07S2V5GB9/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

If you want to charge with solar, you need a charge controller and panel. (Add to above $15 controller and $100-200 for solar panels)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XWTKYDC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I am in the process of finishing mine now and have elected to just use an external inverter for the off chance I need 120v.

Thanks for the responses.. I have ensured that the positive and negative are aligned the same between the lamps. I've connected to each with in sequence terminating at the controller.

This was my first attempt with a solar panel (20W).. Bought this : https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XWTKYDC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

I see now that I should have purchased on with a variable load output. Any suggestions?

I would this work? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07G4ZWX3F/ref=twister_B07JW87L4G?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

​

Again thanks for the help.

Love Renology panels. Just ordered a 2x 50w since the 100w is a bit tough to store after the burn. This charge controller came today for testing. I like the addition of USB as all my lighting is now wired for USB battery packs and USB on the charge controller provides easy recharging.

I traveled around the country in a van with an 85 watt solar panel and a 70Ah deep cycle battery. If you got a laptop with good battery life (my last two Asus laptops have gotten around 5-6 hours on dim screen lower performance), you should not invest the money in a solar setup. I would instead recommend you get an inverter for your car (20 bucks) and charge it to and from school and at school. Even getting a small solar setup will set you back a little bit, plus weather problems may become an issue if you can't mount the large windsail that a solar panel becomes when the wind picks up. For entertainment purposes, I'd consider a cheap <$150 tablet and something like this:

http://www.amazon.com/Coleman-22007-7-5W-Folding-Panel/dp/B007JU9K32/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1406255468&sr=8-1&keywords=coleman+solar

This would work well for charging up any phone, mp3 player or usb charging speakers as well.

Yes! They are actually two 175w panels that I made a custom mount for so they could stick in between the lumber rack while providing shade but also aerodynamically helping out the RTT. I also think they kinda make the "lines" of the truck look a bit cooler with the RTT :)

Not this one specifically but my coop with about 35 chickens uses this timer design.

Automated Chicken Coop Door

I added a 12V LED light bar to give them some light at night during the winter. It definitely re-started their egg production then. It's all run off a 25W solar panel and 10Ah battery. Only thing I may change would be to add more battery capacity so on the sunny days during winter it can bank the additional power for the not so sunny days.

For reference, I'm in Northern California zone 9a/b and we get lots of sun here.

It would be pretty easy to build something similar for a lot cheaper. Pick up a used suitcase at the thrift shop, mount a 50w panel on the outside (much better than the 10W panel in the case you linked to.) Inside the case, mount a charge controller with USB, this 20Ah battery (again, better than the 16Ah in the other one), and this 500W inverter (not sure how big the one in the expensive case it, but 500W should be enough.) So for less than $250 and a little bit of build work, you can have a much more functional system (500% larger solar capacity and 25% more battery capacity).

I used two of these guys:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DDYM1UC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_TpCJAb5SDC8P4

It’s been more than enough for my needs. FYI - /r/vandwellers is more active than this sub. My favorite place for van info is the forum on cheaprvliving.com

Get this battery, it's frequently on sale for like $111

You can recharge it with a solar panel. I got this one on Amazon. You'll also need the adapter and some connectors

You'll get much better performamnce if you get a DC adapter for your CPAP.

Powertools is a big step up from AAs. Very very different setups required.

First do you have DC powered chargers for your tool batteries? These should exist for people to recharge stuff in the truck and should run off of 12 volts DC.

You're going to want to get a 12V - 24V solar panel in the 30W to 150W range. That is about as big as can be easily handled for a temporary install. And then voltage regulators to turn the fluctuating panel voltage into something more steady. Then choosing DC powered battery chargers and choosing a standard connector to use for everything. Here are some examples of things:

• 50W solid panel
  
• 50W flexible panel much easier to transport
  
• adjustable buck-boost regulator
  
• USB regulator
  
• Nitecore D4 charger
  
• barrel plugs
  
  Personally I perfer to avoid using a 120VAC inverter. It is much easier to run everything off of low voltage DC like you would in a boat or RV. But you need to be a little more selective about your devices.
  
  But that is for a bigger setup. The smallest setup would be a 5W usb panel and an Olight UC charger.
  
  Avoid the panels that have batteries built in. Overpriced junk. And putting batteries out in the sun is dumb.

Realistically, the solar panels you can attach to your backpack while hiking through a forest, no.

The easiest solution is to find lower power electronics that will do whatever you need. If you really need a lot of solar power, I'd recommend getting one or more of the biggest folding panel you can, like this, and planning a long siesta in your hiking schedule where you'll find a place to position them optimally for a few hours.

Things that will kill your battery quick are TV's, electric coffee makers, hair dryers, or anything you use a DC to AC converter. Like mentioned earlier, use a french press or good ol' stove top percolator for coffee.
TV these days can be replaced with a laptop and a hard drive full of movies. If you are using DVD players and satellite you will triple your consumption of battery power. Solar is only good for a slow charge of the main batteries or to power small appliances like a cell phone or small laptop. And if the weather is bad then so is your solar system.
I have rough camped in my motor home and my batteries started going dead after the 3rd day. I had to run the motor home generator for a few hours to charge them back up. I have since then replaced all of my interior lights with LED bulbs and got a solar panel charger to use on the main batteries. This has extended the charge on my RV well past 4 days. I don't have TV's but I use a laptop and a tablet for entertainment so I cant comment on that. But the LED lighting has made the biggest difference.
Otherwise you can use your vehicle that pulls the trailer as a source of power to charge batteries Personally I would get a nice small generator to power the big stuff like air conditioning and microwave ovens.

I bought a battery for mine. Haven't tested how long I can go with it, but worked great,

TalentCell Rechargeable 72W 100WH 12V/8300mAh 9V/11000mAh 5V/20000mAh DC, Portable Li-ion Power Bank, https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01337QXMA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_KTp2CbN4HBRDA

This is the things that I wrote for another guy, and since I already have it typed I'm just pasting it here. Since it's such a small battery my idea (155Ah) is to charge it with my alternator.

 

• Battery
  
• Isolator
  
• Inverter
  
• This Accesory
  
• And this cables with this fuse.
  
  I would use that accessory to plug stuff that use 12v like cellphone charger,fans etc. It's best to run things directly from the 12v DC instead of converting it to AC and then again converting it to DC.
  
  Those cables are over-kill, but that's what I would buy because they are not that expensive and it doesn't hurt.
  
  
   
  
  
  This is how I would connect everything. It totals around $475 US.

fwiw this is what I grabbed. https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B01M5DCPKD/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 It pushes a good 2A on the usb in overcast but not dark enough to rain weather in the first week of may. Overpriced but folds neatly in to a box. Yup, when it comes to solar, panel size matters. ie., you always want a bigger panel.

Late Edit: Just adding. An inexpensive/cheap charge controller so you don't over charge lead-acid. https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B07GRZ8VHL/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Did you know Amazon will donate a portion of every purchase if you shop by going to smile.amazon.com instead? Over $50,000,000 has been raised for charity - all you need to do is change the URL!

Here are your smile-ified links:

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Generally, the appropriate connectors are MC4 connectors. Most solar panels already have them as connectors.

You can buy the connectors on Amazon here:
https://www.amazon.com/Findyouled-Pairs-Female-Solar-Connectors/dp/B00KNXPIUG/

They aren't designed for disconnect and connecting repetitively, more for what you said, to connect and leave connected. They work well.

You don't have to buy the crimp tool, but man does it make your life easier than using pliers and a soldering iron:
https://www.amazon.com/Signstek-Solar-Crimping-Tools-2-5-6-0mm2/dp/B00N3PTXJS/

I'd like to attach a large 100w panel with suction cups to the windshield. Then I hope to further secure it by wedging the sunshade behind it. I won't be too worried about "stealth" as I usually won't be in the car when I have that in. Plus, I'll just look like an LA environmentalist in a Prius.

Solar panels are my problem. I figure I'll need something like 100 watts to make up for the sub-optimal charging through the windshield.

The problem with that is 100 watts is too big to easily place in the passenger seat. I need a folding unregulated 100 watt panel. And it has to be a lightweight panel.

This is the only one I could find in the entire world. It folds in half to the size of a 50w panel.

Unfortunately, it has shipping times of 4-6 weeks to the US. Also, it doesn't have those holes in the corners which would come in hand for attaching the panel to the windshield with suction cups. Maybe there is some way to devise them...

The only other folding 100 watt panels seems to be $100 more, but too long—when expanded—to fit in the dash.

I suppose I could get away with a 50 watt panel, but I'll probably end up being annoyed I didn't get a 100 watt panel on those days when I could use the power.

I've been studying up on the same topic, and there are a few ways to go about it.

I think the best option for you might be this particular MPPT controller, which you could between the panel and battery, or the battery and a higher voltage battery if need be.

Solar will work. Go for a couple full sized rv panels and a pair of 6volt batteries and a charge controller. Basically, the setup for an RV. Make sure the inverter you choose isn’t oversized as this will waste power. Clear a couple trees if you can.

Panel I’m using

You know you can just make these rather easy.

$20 tool

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KFUW3LY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Just need wire and MC4 connections. I don't know why you'd buy something off the shelf for what should be a custom wire.

​

Otherwise just buy some of these:

https://www.amazon.com/Renogy-10Ft-Adaptor-Female-Connectors/dp/B00JH1PABW/ref=sr_1_3?crid=2OZIJKXVSLBMJ&keywords=mc4+extension+cable&qid=1555547882&s=gateway&sprefix=mc4%2Caps%2C177&sr=8-3

Solar! I have two deep cycle batteries, and use this to charge one at a time during the day. My power needs are pretty small-- just running ipod/computer speakers, lights, and charging a few electronics. It works for me!

I'm handicapped by only knowing English, but that device appears to be the correct item. Is that the same as this? If so, it's the right item.

P.S. I agree with pyromaster114 about the sizing of the system.

Coleman has a folding one rated at 7.5W with a cigarette plug and a usb plug. I've since repourposed it and it's still going strong!

http://www.amazon.ca/Coleman-22007-7-5W-Folding-Panel/dp/B007JU9K32

Not directly that I know of, but you just plug the solar panel into something like an XTAR VC2 and away you go!

I use this panel because I got it on sale for prime day.

Backpacks in the picture were $315.65 and now are $157.82 . The price is still a bit steep on an item like this. It would be cheaper to buy a backpack and a foldable solar panel to hang on the back (like this) than it would be to do this. I'm sure this is someone's dream though.

If your car breaks down or battery dies (more common in cold weather situations) a solar charger could save your life.

http://www.amazon.com/PowerFilm-USB-AA-Solar-Charger/dp/B001RMBHMK/ref=cm_lmf_tit_4

I've loved using these TalentCell power banks. Camera runs for a 6-8hr shoot on one.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B016BJCRUO/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01337QXMA/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Just need to get inventive with the rigging. I use a clamp meant to hold a camera to a rod/pole:

https://www.amazon.com/UTEBIT-Adjustable-Adapter-Aluminum-Photography/dp/B06XNQ8G77/ref=sr_1_9?keywords=clamp+mount+camera+pole&qid=1568172379&s=electronics&sr=1-9

I'd get one of these and carry it on:

https://www.amazon.com/MOHOO-Bendable-Lightweight-Connector-Compatibility/dp/B06XVWPD7N/ref=sr_1_11?ie=UTF8&qid=1506055237&sr=8-11&keywords=100+w+folding+solar

Note that you'll need a battery (AGM/sealed) and at minimum a solar charge controller. I like these ones:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0191QN7OO/ref=sxr_rr_xsim_1?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=3008523062&pd_rd_wg=dnE5M&pf_rd_r=86BF01NK65JWJANM0TKG&pf_rd_s=desktop-rhs-carousels&pf_rd_t=301&pd_rd_i=B0191QN7OO&pd_rd_w=BQDtY&pf_rd_i=solar+charge+controller&pd_rd_r=8YE8X122ADP49YFNBB11&ie=UTF8&qid=1506055373&sr=1

Appropriate battery:

https://www.amazon.com/ML35-12-Battery-Replaces-Mighty-product/dp/B00K8E0WAG/ref=sr_1_10?ie=UTF8&qid=1506055420&sr=8-10&keywords=agm+battery

Do you have any recommendations? I recall seeing someone using something like this in a previous build. Would I have any issues powering both the amp and bluetooth receiver off one of those?

We used a single 175W panel that is currently $180 on Amazon.

Our cost breakdown (work in progress) shows some more of the components you will need. It adds up quickly.

So yes, it is connected to a separate battery inside the van. The light bar is wired to our alternator and powered by the main van starter battery.

I'm looking at this combo...Battery & Charger
But for the same price the deWalt one looks like it has more juice

Nice van!

Don't be too intimidated with adding a house battery. You can do it.

Very in-depth guide for adding a house battery with solenoid: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1zrwHyy4qyY

This is the battery I used, it ROCKS. (smaller and cheaper options from same company available)

Other items I used...

• Continuous Duty Solenoid
  
• Heavy Gauge Wire 2 AWG
  
• Ring Terminals for Heavy Gauge Wire
  
• ANL Fuse Holder
  
• ANL Fuses 100 Amp
  
• Lighter Gauge Wire
  
• Terminals and Connectors for Lighter Gauge Wire
  
• Heat Shrink Assortment
  
• Circuit breaker (alternative to ANL fuses, works as master disconnect too)
  
• Fuse Block (for all devices connected to house battery)

This is what I bought for my setup. The costs have gone up, but that one panel can fill a couple of batteries without any problems.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FPSCET2/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A2D22KZJD14Y8Y

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JH1PABW/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A2D22KZJD14Y8Y

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0060YHLJS/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003RCJB62/ref=ox_sc_act_title_4?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00UFERZKO/ref=ox_sc_act_title_5?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=AWZ3LXPHZK09

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DDZE33E/ref=ox_sc_act_title_6?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A24WV2YRRJEBAG

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B8L6EFA/ref=ox_sc_act_title_7?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A05654602L3XUQ70M87BV

You'll need cables, a battery, and a charge controller https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008KWPGS6

This model of charge controller has settings for turning on power to the load after dark, and shutting it off after some number of hours or at sunrise.

Just make sure buy the correct size battery, and correct gage of wire. You will also need a waterproof enclosure for your battery and charge controller.

https://www.amazon.com/TalentCell-Rechargeable-12000mAh-Multi-led-indicator/dp/B00ME3ZH7C

edit : or this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07H8F5HYJ/ref=emc_b_5_t

this one is quite cool:
12v + 9v + USB outputs... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01337QXMA/ref=emc_b_5_t?th=1

That looks like an MC4 pin in which case you need an MC4 Crimper

I've got one as well -- Solar + 2AA batteries + usb. With a full charge on the AA batteries, it gives me about 55% charge on my iphone, however.

EDIT: I have this one, here:
http://www.amazon.com/PowerFilm-USB-AA-Solar-Charger/dp/B001RMBHMK/ref=sr_1_cc_3?s=aps&ie=UTF8&qid=1346784782&sr=1-3-catcorr&keywords=powerfilm

https://www.amazon.com/Renogy-Tracer-Charge-Controller-100VDC/dp/B00E7NI9PE#productDetails

Its not cheap or in Australia, but it works well. I am not sure what you mean by temp control? I have heard that a lot of the cheap MPPT charge controllers are not actually MPPT so becareful with that.

I would look at something like this Renogy 50w Mono Panel if you want a fixed panel. It's over the max that an OmniCharge will take, but that gives you overhead for non-ideal conditions and the OmniCharge won't eat more than it can take.

I'm looking at that panel for myself.

You can go less than a $3 a watt using [this kit.] (http://www.amazon.com/Unisolar-Flexible-Solar-Panel-Laminate/dp/B006EP6MCU/ref=sr_1_4?s=lawn-garden&ie=UTF8&qid=1342927366&sr=1-4)
You're going to have a bit of challenge on a budget like that though. Batteries will be an additional expense but this is a good learning experience.

No, those panels output around 10W whereas a computer typically needs ~50W to charge. Also most of them only output 5V USB.

But:

• There are bigger/more powerfull solar panels. For example this monster that claims to output up to 60W... Honestly it's probably only 30 to 40W. Maybe that's enough for your laptop. It also has a 18V output and a set of adapters so you can directly charge your laptop
  
• I have a solar panel very similar to the OP one. Claims to be 16W, measured a bit more than 10W the other day. It can charge this big USB battery and in turn that battery can charge my laptop because it has a 45W output and my laptop can charge with USB-PD (can't do both at the same time)

I see similar things on amazon too.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B013E07FNM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_LyPVzb3PAW922

>1 Amp @ 2.2 hours

That's still over twice the capacity that this thing boasts. I'm curious of the price... compared to my 11k mAhr battery for 30$, I don't see how it could possibly bring anything to the table.

If you are in that kind of emergency where it would make a difference, and you have access to the inside of a building window for 8 hours... I can't see how you couldn't find an outlet. Its like its solving a nonexistent problem.

Only real use I can figure is stuck in the middle of a forest with no cell battery but just happen to be close to a cell tower. But then, no window... so whats the point. It can be done much so better with a rolled up flexible panel.

Like one of these doodads http://www.amazon.com/PowerFilm-USB-AA-Solar-Charger/dp/B001RMBHMK

---

>The whole... 220V AC is freaking hilarious

Indeed, I facepalmed on that.

The monetary cost to do pedal recharging is minimal, you would need a regenerating motor controller which is less than ten dollars more than a non-regenerating one and you would need a way to prop the rear wheel off the ground so it can be spun with the pedals.

I built a solar recharged ebike about five years ago with very similar parts to what you see on these bikes. The problem I had was I was running 50V of lithium cells and the only solar charge controller I could find for lithium at the time had to be custom ordered and cost more than the rest of the bike put together. That has changed now, you can get a high voltage solar controller that would be suitable for lithium from 24V to up over 60V for less than fifty dollars.

The average person can't turn the motor fast enough pedaling as a generator to get it into a reasonably efficient range or at least not for longer than a minute or two.

Of course you could hire a few kids to pedal your bike to recharge, they take turns and can pedal fast for a few minutes each and then swap out.

http://www.amazon.com/PowerFilm-USB-AA-Solar-Charger/dp/B001RMBHMK

They also make decent solar chargers for AA batteries.

Not in stock, but you might be able to find it elsewhere:
http://www.amazon.com/USB-AA-Solar-Panel-Charger/dp/B001RMBHMK/ref=sr_1_1

Is that this X2?
http://smile.amazon.com/Vmaxtanks-VMAX-Rechargeable-Solar-Inverters/dp/B00DDYM1UC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1405392502&sr=8-1&keywords=solar+155ah

I have 2 of the 125AH batteries and they are great....

Two Panels: https://www.amazon.com/ALLPOWERS-Bendable-SunPower-Resistant-Irregular/dp/B013E07FNM/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1495643866&sr=8-4&keywords=solar+panel+flexible

Four Batteries: https://www.amazon.com/Vmaxtanks-Vmaxslr125-rechargeable-Solar-Inverters/dp/B00ACNO2AO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1495643913&sr=8-1&keywords=battery+vmax

Charge Controller: https://www.amazon.com/CoZroom-Charge-Controller-Regulator-Intelligent/dp/B01ERF0LHA/ref=sr_1_6?s=lawn-garden&ie=UTF8&qid=1495643961&sr=1-6&keywords=charge+controller

Inverter: https://www.amazon.com/Samlex-Solar-PST-2000-12-Pure-Inverter/dp/B00AYH69UE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1495644314&sr=8-1&keywords=samlex+solar+pst-2000

References

[0]: 1st charger
http://imgur.com/gallery/SFL5Gz3

[1]: Docooler® MPPT Solar Panel Battery Regulator Charge Controller 10A https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HCL7LEW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_wZQ7CbFHZ58AP

[2]: laptop supply
http://imgur.com/gallery/EeTMH4O

[3]: battery charging dongle and spare parts
http://imgur.com/9etsFlw

[4]: 48V 17Ah (13S5P-35E) https://em3ev.com/shop/em3ev-48v-13s5p-jumbo-shark-ebike-battery/

Get an UPS and connect a big battery to it

Has anyone used or have advice about Folding Panels?

following that link I found one, that specifically say: user can set the output voltage and current according to actual need.
https://www.amazon.com/Docooler%C2%AE-Battery-Regulator-Charge-Controller/dp/B01HCL7LEW/ref=sr_1_7?s=lawn-garden&ie=UTF8&qid=1506314112&sr=1-7&keywords=mppt+charge+controller

but it seem is for 24v system and up. not for 12v.
btw when using MPPT controller do you need to have 24v panels?

Controller, Solar Panel,

I have a cheap Renogy charge controller and a 50W panel. If you're into DIY that might be the way to go. 50W isn't a lot of panel, but it might work if you keep the loads down.

Controller https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00U3MK0CI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Panel https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XVWPD7N/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I've done it. I used a single 100w panel hooked to an MPPT charge controller with variable output voltage. It would only charge higher voltages than 18v, but that was okay since my bikes are 24, 36, and now 48v. Obviously, it was slow going. But i was able to put in about 50wh over an hour. Not the best efficiency, but it did work.

Why not forget the indoors restriction of using a USB charger and simply go solar? AA solar chargers are not very expensive...currently amazon does not have the example I'm going to post but a little googling could probably find similar other products.

http://www.amazon.com/USB-AA-Solar-Panel-Charger/dp/B001RMBHMK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&m=A1VOUFSIGRIGBC&s=generic&qid=1261596408&sr=1-1

Out of curiosity is the boost converter actually putting out the voltage it's saying when under load? When I was experimenting on making one for my XR I found I'd set mine to put 63v out, but when I measured it under load regardless of the voltage of the battery at the time it was pumping 68v! I was using one of these mind you so it might just be an inferior product compared to what you're using.

I've since opted for a solar charger that has been working fine. It will start charging in a constant current state at the same voltage of the battery at that time up untill it reaches the max voltage then charges in constant voltage mode to top off the cells.

If you get a 12 volt fan it will use about 1 amp, so 8amp hours for all night = 20% of carbatt capacity. Some car batteries will only do that every night for a week before they start to suffer, some will do it for a few months.

This sort of thing looks intresting:

https://www.amazon.com/Station-Portable-Inverter-Generator-42000mAh/dp/B074MN6YG3/

"150 Watthours" lithium Ion battery pack (rather good), "100" Watt solar input , built in 100 watt inverter (that's lowish power but still useful) and usb and 12 volt outputs. cost $160

the specification of the solar input may be questionable, limited to 25 actual watts and nominal 13~14 v level (MC4 connector). That may or may not be compatible with nominal 100 watt, 12v or 18v panel setups.

Then you'd just need a $20 12v fan, and bargain lightweight solar panel deal...

"50W" bendable panel kit for $100 ?

There is a "100W" version for $170 - possibly overkill.

1 kilogram, frameless :

https://www.amazon.com/ALLPOWERS-Bendable-Flexible-Lightweight-Irregular/dp/B013DZWDI0/

and even if, you can power a light house for hours from a power bank anyways. no need to charge it simultaneously. just get one with a 12-volt outlet https://www.amazon.com/TalentCell-Rechargeable-11000mAh-20000mAh-Portable/dp/B01337QXMA

https://www.reddit.com/r/Vive/comments/42271m/lighthouses_running_from_battery_for_hours_and/

I use one of these for my portable low power ham station.

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https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01337QXMA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

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it is an always on type thing and matter of fact, the power switch is just a cut to the actual battery. If you plug in 12v to the barrel plug, the USB jack will charge things with the switch in either position. Leave it on and you have a USB UPS that kicks in automatically if it loses DC input.

I have this one and like it. Still only 500mah output but also charges AA's.The AA's then charge the device. It is small and light. When there is no light or your rechargeables are dead, you can put disposable batteries.
http://www.amazon.com/PowerFilm-USB-AA-Solar-Charger/dp/B001RMBHMK/ref=sr_1_1?s=lawn-garden&ie=UTF8&qid=1374261741&sr=1-1&keywords=solar+aa+charger