Edit: Most of this post assumes you have a "line in" available on your computer. Most desktops have this already, not sure if laptops do if that is what you game on. Also, the Mackie Mix8 would be better if you plan to use voice chat because you can use the aux send for voice chat.

What mic you need really depends on what you're doing. Some great streamers get by with just a headset mic. Some people have $600 microphones and don't sound wonderful.

If I had $200 and was just starting streaming, I would start small, and do a lot of research. Get to know the basics like the difference between dynamic mics and condenser mics. Understand what phantom power is. Learn the difference between unidirectional, omnidirectional, and cardioid microphones.

If you want to get into pro audio, which it sounds like you do, I would recommend you should opt for a small mixer, maybe something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/Mackie-Mix-Mix5-5-Channel-Mixer/dp/B00ND1K8T6/ref=sr_1_4?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1485752991&sr=1-4&keywords=Mackie+Compact+Mixer

I would recommend a mixer rather than an interface (such as a Scarlett Solo) because a mixer ultimately gives you more options. The Scarlett Solo is a beautiful device, I have one, but it's good for one voice optionally paired with one instrument, each on mono channels. That small Mackie mixer, which is about half the price, lets you have one voice paired with two stereo channels. Right now I'm sporting a 14-channel mixer I picked up used for $125, and it has more options than I need. Interfaces are supposed to have amazing analog-to-digital converters, meaning the sound they capture is more accurate, but I feed the "main out" from the mixer into a "line in" on my PC and I notice no appreciable difference. I am not an audiophile, though. To do that you'd need a cable like this:

https://www.amazon.com/TNP-Premium-3-5mm-Audio-Cable/dp/B01CNMSRA2/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1485755363&sr=1-2&keywords=6.25mm%2Bmono%2Bto%2B3.5mm%2Bstereo&th=1

Pair the mixer/interface, whichever you go with, with an XLR microphone. I'd recommend starting small. This dynamic mic sounds decent for a realllly low price:

https://www.amazon.com/Shure-SM48-LC-Dynamic-Microphone-Cardioid/dp/B0002D0HY4

It's what I currently use. It's kind of a dumbed down SM58. I started with a Sterling Audio ST55, because GiantWaffle uses that and I think his stream sounds great. It turns out my house is super noisy, so the ST55 which is a condenser mic picked up crazy amounts of noise. All the running computers in the room, the air conditioning, pets running around, people talking across the room, people stomping around upstairs, you get the idea. GiantWaffle didn't have that problem because he uses sound dampening materials in his studio, and keeps noisy stuff far away from his microphone. I tried out the SM48, and it works better for my environment, but if I had known better a couple years ago I probably would have bought this instead of the ST55:

https://www.amazon.com/AKG-PERCEPTION-Professional-Instrumental-Microphone/dp/B00167QUWI

A friend of mine has it, and it sounds amazing. It has similar sound qualities to other condenser mics, but it doesn't pick up nearly as much room noise.

I'm sure the AT2035 is great. It's a condenser mic, so it can pick up really quiet sounds, and it likely picks up a huge range of frequencies resulting in a super full-sounding voice. Just make sure if you go with this one that you streaming in a quiet room. Also, it needs phantom power, so make sure that the mixer/interface you're using can support it.

Be sure to buy an XLR cable. Some microphones don't come with one.

Pop filters are cool, but aren't strictly necessary, especially if you aren't singing.

Scissor arm mounts are nice if your desk can accommodate them. Remember you get what you pay for. A normal mic stand will work alright if you have enough room for it.

I should also mention the AT2020, Blue Yeti, and even the Blue Snowball sound great. If you simply want to plug, play, and forget with no options after that, they will suit your needs. Some headsets also have pretty good microphones on them, too. Like this one:

https://www.amazon.com/Sennheiser-PC-350-Special-2015/dp/B015ZKJIYI/ref=dp_ob_title_ce

Good luck!

What clubs have you been in that you've seen the trim and masters maxed out? I've swatted dj's hand away when they try to do shit like that, no way is that happening in any self respecting venue. Yes, it's less likely to clip and distort on Pioneer gear, but in no situation is it ok or expected that anyone is solidly in the reds like that. I don't let DJ's hit anything higher than just the first red LED on the master channel, and even then only tickling it. What we do have is a ton of limiting and compression to keep the volume right where we set it on a given night.

For a mobile/live setup that you're looking at, rather than a full rack of processing hardware, I'd recommend grabbing something like a Soundcraft UI12 or a Behringer XR12/Midas MR12. A small wireless mixer would be a much more cost effective and flexible setup for you right now than a huge bunch of rack hardware, in my opinion. They've got plenty of onboard routing, effects, and dynamics processing like compression and limiting, and all controllable from an iPad or your phone. The Behringer/Midas have a really nice selection of processing effect units available as sends and inserts on any channel, and the Soundcraft is really easily accessible from a user interface perspective. Pretty much everything you need to operate as a mobile DJ, and even audio for small bands is pretty doable.

If you have to use that device as if it's a soundcard device on the laptop, but wireless, the only way I can think of to do this is with some "network USB hub" gear. This will basically extend your usb cable over your LAN (wired or wifi) to allow your laptop to connect to your SE22 as if the USB cable was plugged into the laptop.

Unfortunately, these are hard to come by these days. Belkin made one that I had very good luck with back in like 2012 (used it for professional applications), but although they are still available on amazon, they are discontinued and YMMV getting it to work with Windows 10. There's also this one which I cannot vouch for and it's a bit expensive. Finally, there are software options which you may be able to wire up with another device of your own; perhaps like a raspberry pi or some such. It might be an adventure in learning!

All of these solutions will require a rock-solid fast wifi connection, probably won't handle any communication breaks well, and will introduce a bit of latency into the equation. If you're just trying to play music for listening, this shouldn't matter. But if you're trying to do sound editing or whatnot, it probably will matter. Again, YMMV.

EDIT: Another thought, if you just want to play music through your 8020's ...why do you even need to use the SE22 at all? Just get yourself like a Chromecast Audio (discontinued, yes, but easy to find) and get yourself one of these cables and plug the chromecast directly into your 8020's.

Keep in mind that if you want to upgrade to a higher-quality microphone or bigger setup, you may have trouble integrating USB gear into that setup, and a better USB microphone will cost much more than an equivalent analog microphone. So, if you see yourself upgrading to a better microphone in the future, or getting a more "professional" sound system, you may want to stray away from USB. If you go for an analog microphone and an audio interface, you will usually have better sound quality at the same price points as well.

With that said, I would go with the MXL 770 and a Focusrite iTrack Solo. I use a Focusrite product myself. These are very capable and well-regarded budget home recording devices.

Now how do we get this in budget? In audio, it's not a bad idea to go used or open box. For example, you can grab a Focusrite iTrack Solo from eBay right now for for $70 or less. Buy the MXL 770 from Amazon, a Neewer boom stand, and a XLR cable, and you've got yourself a very capable and easily upgradable kit for $165. Then, if you want to upgrade in the future, you can jump up to a more pro-level microphone and still support it on the iTrack, or if you need to plug in more microphones or instruments, you can get another interface and still use the MXL 770.

TL;DR I would highly recommend going for a non-usb microphone like the MXL 770 and a budget audio interface. With an extra $25 and some smart shopping, you can get some equipment that sounds better AND will save you money with future upgrades.

Feel free to ask me any questions you have.

Source: Amateur radio producer, person who spent too much and thought too little on his initial audio purchases.

There are a ton of cheap ones, so I guess quality of the cable could cause problems. If you wanted to be 100% sure you could go with an xlr to 3.5mm cable (though that would move the quality to your motherboards sound card), or a cheap mixer like a Behringer q302USB which would guarantee pretty great audio quality.

To be safe with the usb cables, i'd stay away from the sub $10 ones, or definitely go with a mixer or interface. I think the best cheap, but kind of jankey setup, you could go with in your price range is to get a cheap usb sound card and use a 3.5mm to xlr adapter with that. Just keep in mind the setup would probably be better off with a $10 increase to the budget and a proper mixer.

edit: the q302 doesn't have the ability to turn of phantom power, but the q502 is also good. I have used the $13 usb cable that's on amazon before (from neewer i think?) and it worked for my original jankey at2020 setup, so you would probably be good using that too.

As a second mic I can reccomend check out the atr2100, its great and both usb and xlr, so when your budget increases or you want to upgrade your setup you can upgrade to an xlr setup without scrapping your mic.

Well, here is a Hosa Pro 5 foot HMIC-005 cable

https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-HMIC-005-XLR3F-XLR3M-Microphone/dp/B004TP4IZU

and a 10 foot HMIC-010

https://www.amazon.com/HMIC-010-XLR3F-XLR3M-Microphone-Cable/dp/B004TPDBGC/

which is a common length election since you didn't suggest what you wanted.

The audio on cheap cables is likely the same but better cables have better shielding which is nice but not a huge deal for short runs at home, and better connectors with better strain relief so they are less likely to be damaged and need to be replaced. There are better cables but they are three or more times as expensive for little gain. And Hosa Pro have a lifetime warranty.

!

Here's what I use. Not nearly the best, but it's manageable for the average Joe or group.

Current

• Streaming: OBS Studio (Win 0.14.x)
  
• Overlay: HTML/Javascript w/ StreamControl writing data to JSON and JS polling it.
  
• Capture Device: Startech USB3HDCAP + XRGB-mini Framemeister
  
• WebCams: 2x Logitech C920
  
• Audio Mixer: Mackie Mix 8
  
• Headsets: 2x Audio-Technica BPHS1
  
• Misc: Powered Composite Splitter, Behringer HA400 Headphone Amp
  
• Stream Tools: Nightbot, TwitchAlerts
  
  

  Deprecated
  

• Capture Device: Dazzle DVC 100
  
  BPHS1s are kind of the standard for accessible and reasonably priced xlr headsets.
  
  I was getting decent quality out of my old dazzle before I switched, people just need to learn how to setup their bitrate properly to reduce artifacts and how to deinterlace their capture via amarectv or using the built in obs plugins (I used yadifx4 for the longest time) which do a nice, respectable job. Would I recommend a dazzle? Eh, it produces decent video for the price (got mine on ebay for $20), but has some compatibility issues - if you do a quick search for audio issues with the dazzle you'll find a couple threads. There are workarounds, but it's finicky.
  
  Ideally though, streams should be capturing component video. It removes the need for software/external hardware deinterlacing. The issue here is that you either need a TV that supports component, or a component->composite converter, which I've seen people have performance issues with in the past.
  My current setup uses a Framemeister to upscale the composite signal and handle the deinterlacing, outputting HDMI to the USB3HDCAP. The advantage is that I get to feed straight composite signals to any plain old CRT, which is great because I've been recording out of a suitcase the last few months while I move around.
  
  I build my overlays in JavaScript and HTML; there's a layer of logic that polls a local JSON file written by StreamControl for changes and updates them on the page.
  
  Just taking off on a flight. More info later. (It's later)
  
  Sample with the Dazzle

Earlier this year I consulted to do a very similar setup with the Curiosity.com podcast. The premise was for a host and a guest or two with a Skype-in possibility. The main host also works at a Chicago WGN radio personality and was open to a higher-end solution while not totally blowing out the budget. In the end we came up with an initial office studio layout in the $2k range. One thing he mitigated was room echo/reverb and office noise through using room placement and dynamic microphones.

Here is a picture of his original setup

Here is a picture of the acoustic treatment needed

Also, his equipment purchased was for 2 main hosts and a third guest (if necessary) and ran about $2,000. To get a 3rd or 4th microphone in place would be another $750ish a piece for the microphone, shock mount, pop filter, boom arm, Microphone digital processor and headphones.

Here is his list of equipment:

(1) Mackie ProFx8v2

(1) Zoom H6

(2) DBX 286s

(2) Electro Voice re320 package from BSW Warehouse

(2) Rode PSA-1 Boom Arms

(1) 6U Audio Rack

(2) Sony MDR-7506 Headphones

(1) Behringer HA400 Headphone Amp

Plus cables.

Each additional microphone would be a re320 package, a Rode PSA-1 Boom Arm, a DBX 286s and a Sony MDR-7506.

The Mixer can output a stereo track to a Laptop / PC which you can use to record a stereo track on your recording software of choice. The Zoom H6 offers the capability to record up to 6 channels either through the mixer using inserts / aux sends / subs.

Personally I'd swap out the Rode PSA-1 for the Heil PL-2T Boom Arm but either should get the job done.

Also, if I was advising him today I would tell him to forget the Mackie ProFX8v2 mixer AND the Zoom H6 AND the Behringer HA400 and buy a Zoom L12 Livetrack Recorder instead. In fact my Better Podcast cohost recently filmed a video review of the Zoom L12 if you want to check that out.

Finally, the re320 was the microphone he was used to from Chicago WGN radio but it would have been the one I recommended anyway. There are others to choose from but the re320 is the most forgiving for all voices.

For a more mobile setup I would recommend the Sennheiser MD-46 interview microphone which you could place on a desk stand with a On-Stage MY-325 Shock Mount. If you have the Zoom H-6 or Zoom L-12 you could easily take that setup from room to room. In fact I just used a similar setup earlier this year at GenCon as I think the sound turned out pretty good.

As for editing software there are plenty of opinions on that. But since this is business based you might consider getting some Adobe licenses. It will contain audio and video editing software as well as the PhotoShop suite as well. Personally I'm transitioning from Audacity to Movie Studio Platinum 14.0 and Reaper/Hindenburg Journalist.

All of this is professional gear but if you really want a no kidding pro setup I'd contact the guys at BSW Warehouse. They will give you options in the $10k and $100k ranges.

For the JBL LSR305, I obviously know I will not need an amp since they are powered speakers, but I was wondering what the best solution would be to connect them easily to an ipod, computer etc...

I'm imagining a 3.5mm to xlr such as the one listed below, however I am not too sure since I've never had speakers with these types of inputs. Please help me out with the best cost/performance cabling option for these speakers, amazon preferred.

http://www.amazon.com/Hosa-XVM-110M-Right-Angle-3-5mm/dp/B000K6B2DI/

That's not really going to get you much as far as usable audio goes, and leaves you nothing for a boompole/cables/etc.

I'm guessing your short films have dialogue? The on-camera (which camera are you using?) mic will not work. Sorry, it sounds like absolute shit 90% of the time. You'll want a boompole (which you can make yourself- look online).

You're going to want to buy used. I'll copy-paste a reply I wrote elsewhere:


On the cheap, will exceed your budget though:

Tascam DR-40 or DR-05. You should go for the 40. Built-in mics for ambiance (probably shouldn't use these to get dialogue unless you absolutely have to). Decent recorder, takes AA's, and can be found used for around $150. http://used.guitarcenter.com/usedgear/index.cfm has one for $150, search for "tascam dr40" and it'll pop up. Talk 'em down on the price, too.

I haven't used the DR-05 so I can't vouch for the quality of it's inputs, but at this price you won't be getting class A preamps. It is what it is, but read the reviews and find which cheap recorder is the most usable for this purpose.

Audio-Technica AT835B. It's AA battery-powered so you don't need phantom mic power on your recorder. One used will run you from $1-175 Here's one on ebay for $165 http://www.ebay.com/itm/Audio-Technica-AT835b-Shotgun-Mic-w-clip-windscreen-cable-prior-to-AT8035-/290759720787?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item43b2a13f53

Build a boom pole. There a lot of tutorials on the internet on how to do it for free or cheap, depending on what you have around your house.
Build or buy a shockmount for the mic. A basic shockmount starts at around $30-40.

Buy/acquire/borrow an XLR-1/8" cable. The mic output is XLR female and the input on most recorders in this price range is 1/8" (otherwise known as "headphone jack-sized"). $7-10. Here's one: http://www.amazon.com/Hosa-XVM-110M-Right-Angle-3-5mm/dp/B000K6B2DI/ref=pd_cp_e_1 (if you're booming it you'll want at least a 15' cord)

Headphones. You might have some around. Ideally I'd say borrow or use the best ones you can get. Don't use ones with "super bass" or anything. You want them as flat-sounding as possible.

And finally: do some studying on audio. Practice a lot. And don't forget to clap to sync your audio track and video track for post.

In your situation, I'd get a good mixer, like this one or this one, and out of those mics, I'd skip all of them and get a good dynamic mic instead. I use the AKG D5 and love it. I used the audio technica ATR2100, shure SM57 and SM58 as well, and liked the D5 over all of them.

Edit; Actually, reading your post again, a good usb audio interface will do you well too, though you won't have as many adjustments as a mixer will give you.

I only have experience of 1 shaker but I'd suggest starting with that to try out the experience, unless you're not worried about spending lots of money. You can always add on more shakers later.

I have a single Buttkicker Gamer 2 (there are cheaper solutions, but I love the BKG2), a 3rd-party amp (the BK amp stopped working, got replaced, stopped working again, so I gave up and bought an alternative), a separate sound card for the BK, and SimVibe, all of which mounts up.

BKG2: ~£120 (when I bought it)
Replacement amp: ~£120
Sound card: ~£20
SimVibe: ~£72

Total: around £350

If you're going all-out, I'm no expert but I imagine you'd go with 5 shakers (one for each wheel, one for the chassis), which means you'd need an amp with more channels or more amps, as well as the extra shakers.

There are certainly cheaper alternative shakers to the BKG2, but I don't know enough to recommend one. Also, the BKG2 has a nice mounting system that makes attaching it to my rig simple; other shakers will probably provide more of a mounting challenge.

Well, by cheap I dont know what your budget is. But if you want a good sounding microphone for talking, find a one that is a studio/condenser microphone. It will require a usb powered pre-amp audio interface or a simple usb adapter for computer use because it comes with an XLR connection. Best bet would be to go to music stores and search for studio microphone you like depending on the price, and then buy the usb preamp or adapter separately. Also buy a pop filter.

If your budget is 7-10K, I would recommend MXL company ones and then buy usb adapters like this. MXL last very long. If you have extra budget then buy a usb preamp audio interface(make sure there is an xlr connection). The reason why the audio interface is so you have a direct hardware monitoring. They don't have any delays if you plan on hearing live through headphones.

This was my setup MXL 2008, M-Audio Fast Track. I used this for guitar and song recordings.

No need to go used. The XR12 is $249 brand new:

https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-XR12-12-Input-Digital-Mixer/dp/B00ZR77GGC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1486486698&sr=8-1&keywords=behringer+xr12

It is a great little mixer. I use mine for small gigs that normally don't need more than 4 mics but I have also used it for a band that needed 8 mics and the TRS line inputs are clean enough that I was able to plug in dynamic mics with XLR>TRS cables and get plenty of gain without noise. I am impressed.

The one thing to consider though is that you must have a tablet to control it. I bought an Amazon Fire HD 8 for $89. Works great.

EDIT: I just noticed the OP is in Canada. I guess he might have to go used or refurb.

If you are looking for a mixer that will have EQs on more than just the channels with microphone pres, I'd recommend this one. Still has 8 channels and effects as well. I can vouch that Alto is a pretty good mixer for the price. I've not had any issues with mine that I've had for 3 years. It's pretty compact for the channels as well. Hope this helps.

https://www.amazon.com/Alto-Professional-ZMX122FX-8-Channel-Compact/dp/B004TM31FG/ref=sr_1_1?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1493434497&sr=1-1&keywords=alto+professional+mixer

You're unlikely to find a mixer that has those inputs built in. Your best bet would be to use adapters for all those sources and just plug those in on the 1/4in jacks. Keeping in mind though that you should also look for mixers that support panning individual channels; each jack on a mixer typically just supports mono audio, so you'd have to send it back to left / right.

For example, I use a Mackie 402 on my desk. If I want to plug in a stereo line on channels 1 and 2, that "STEREO PAN" button has to be enabled to keep it from mono'ing them both.

Off the top of my head, something like the X Air series supports linking two channels and simultaneously controlling them + L/R panning them, for multiple channels, which you would probably need with your amount of inputs. A quick look and the Mackie ProFX12 would also probably suit your needs. Both of these are probably a little overkill for exactly what you need, but generally they both have the ability to properly handle your sources once they're in 1/4in form.

I'm kind of going on at length on this because I 100% did not consider it as a problem to be aware of when buying my mixer for my purposes and just lucked out that everything works.

For those adapters, a bluetooth receiver and appropriate cables for that particular unit, optical converter, and if "A/V audio" means RCA, just slap that RCA-1/4 from earlier in as well.

Mics:

• Cascade M39 Stereo Pair Small Condenser Microphones = $160/pr
  
• Blue Spark Large Diaphragm Condenser = $200/ea
  
• GLS Audio Professional Microphone ES-57 - 3 Pack = $85
  
• Total = $445
  
  This gets you enough versatility to capture everything you listed and be able to get choosy with tone.
  
  Interface/Software:
  
  
• Focusrite Scarlett 8i6 = $250
  
• Cockos Reaper = $ Nothing, really until you want to spend the $60 on the full version
  
• Misc plugins = just Google and read around about good free plugins to start with (if that)
  
• Total = $250
  
  The Scarlett gets you 4 tracks of simultaneous recording. If you can get even decent drum sounds out of 4 tracks, you'll be a boss when you step up to 8 or 16 tracking. As for the software, I'd start with Reaper and see if you like it. In the meantime, get demos of various other DAWs like Cubase or something and see if it makes any sense to you. If you find a DAW that seems appealing to you, try it. Even if you have to pirate it, give it a go and see if it's worth the money to you.
  
  Monitoring:
  
  
• A pair of JBL LSR2325P Monitors = $400
  
• Audio-Technica ATH-M50S Headphones = $160
  
• Total = $560
  
  Those JBLs are nice. Do not use the headphones as a crutch, only to reference when mixing or for close (or isolated) listening when tracking. All will be good.
  
  Accessories:
  
  
• GLS Audio 25ft Mic Cables (XLR/XLR = $15/ea (let's say get two of them) = $30
  
• On Stage Stands Stand = $30/ea (again, let's say two) = $60
  
• A pair of Live Wire Balanced Patch Cables = $16 ($7.99/ea) - for your monitors
  
• A pair of GLS Audio 25ft Mic Cables (XLR/TS) = $30
  
• Foambymail.com Monitor Isolation Wedges = $10
  
• Total = $146
  
  I disagree with djpeef about getting a MudGuard. It's very unnecessary unless you plan on doing voiceover work.
  
  Subtotal = $1401
  
  With $99 bucks left you can get a MIDI controller if you'll be needing one.
  I think that about covers it...

Whoops - you'll want a small cheapo 8-track mixing board to dump the drums out to a single output like this one. Spend as little as possible, you just want basic levels and 3-band EQ functionality for this.

I'm also of the opinion that OP should get at most the 4-mic kit I linked for the drum kit. He doesn't know shit about recording yet, so it's best to KISS - keep it simple, stupid. Just drop a kick, a snare, a toms, and an overheads mic. A good kit, tuned well, and a good drummer are way more important than getting an individual mic on every single bit of the drum kit. It will teach him to figure out good mic technique as well as save him hundreds of dollars as a high school student.

I can think of three alternatives:

1. Small Mackie/Yamaha mixer. Something such as this already has two unbalanced inputs (tape) or two balanced inputs (line)
   
   
2. A pre-made device. Such as this or this
   
   
3. If remote power is a problem something like this could work, and this happens to be one of my favorite handy "adapters"
   
   The only possible downside I see with your idea is attenuation. You may not get a "hot" enough signal at the far end. A couple solutions I provided are powered and have some sort of trim/gain controls, so you might be better off with them. As far as the "no boxes on the ground", i'm not sure what you are getting at. Compact? Tamper proof? Weather resistant? What is the purpose there? It could be as simple as a outdoor electrical box and stuff whatever you need inside of it.
   
   
   I think if you were to better expand on what you were trying to accomplish I could provide some better answers.

there is a Makie mixer with better preamps that will run quieter, the 402VLZ4 and the larger 802VLZ4.

But I promise you that what you really want is an interface, not a mixer. this one is very popular and will allow two mics. there are more expensive ones with more inputs. Then for a mixer, use a DAW. Reaper is free and fully functional.

This is my megaboard from last week. Still working on the cable management. Hoping to use some of these to clean up the looks here soon. I replaced my FAB chorus on it with my Ibanez PC10, and I'm loving having a wet/dry flanger in the mix. Will post more audio clips at request of anything on here (Check my post history for a clearer photo of this thing).

So I did a little research and it's apparently a very common problem.

This amp is very pricey but a guy used it for the exact purpose and had good luck.

Too rich for my blood (saving up for VR)

edit: People are also using this one

double edit: You'd need an 110VAC to 10-20VDC converter but this is a super cheap amp that would work for a single transducer

Hummm this is my shopping list for the cheapest usable equipment I could find, the interface is for 8 people so don’t get that lol and the prices are for 4 people but this is about the best I can think of (they’re might be cheaper stands and getting a shorter xlr cable might be a good idea but this is kinda a baseline)

4 Microphones $80https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-Ultravoice-Dynamic-Microphone-Cardioid/dp/B0002KZAKS/ref=pd_aw_sim_267_1/134-4918017-9581726?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B0002KZAKS&pd_rd_r=67247d59-873d-11e9-b9fc-e96a8f51671e&pd_rd_w=rl713&pd_rd_wg=YUNRU&pf_rd_p=469620d9-3e90-496d-9dc8-b19f900ba5fe&pf_rd_r=43C56ST8VNKF3SY65G3P&psc=1&refRID=43C56ST8VNKF3SY65G3P

4 Pop filters $40https://www.amazon.com/Professional-Microphone-Stabilizing-Recordings-Broadcasting/dp/B01N21H9WY/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?keywords=pop%2Bfilter&qid=1559702707&s=gateway&sr=8-4&th=1&psc=1

4 XLR cables $40 https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003JJQMD8/ref=psdcmw_11973421_t2_B00018CXV0

5 Microphone stands $60
https://www.amazon.com/InnoGear-Upgraded-Adjustable-Microphone-Snowball/dp/B07F82BPLV/ref=mp_s_a_1_20?keywords=microphone+stand&qid=1559703326&s=gateway&sprefix=microphone+st&sr=8-20

Audio interface $150
Amazon.com: BEHRINGER Audio Interface, 4-Channel (UMC404HD): Gateway

Total: $370

That's probably because you smoked a stativa, the more predominantly stimulating type of strain, when you should have smoked a indica instead, which is what people with anxiety and insomnia are perscribed. If you're in a good set and setting, it'd be pretty unlikely for you to randomly panic. Put on some good, calm tunes, have someone you know and trust around, get this thing, try and have a antipsychotic or benzo around in case it gets too crazy for you, use placebos to you're advantage (as you're more likely to fall for it while tripping, for example, I have a pink goat trapper hat, that makes bad vibes go away and makes a bad trip turn into a good one), ask any questions, I'm here to help :)

Have some really comfy pillows & sheets, have a speaker inside the tent with music you both love, and something like this, which is only like $14 and it'll amaze you of what it can do.. :p

Hey I heard someone say dynamic microphones are better for noisy enviroments because you have to have them closer to you, right? I have no experience with xlr, but would this setup work?

Mic: Shure SM 58
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0000AQRSU/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

Mic Holder:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000EEHM8U/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A311BEHFUHRLQM

Mic Stand: Rode PSA1
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001D7UYBO/ref=ox_sc_act_title_7?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER (I think since the mic is dynamic, I don't need it right?)

Phantom Power ?:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000XUUXB8/ref=ox_sc_act_title_5?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

XLR Cable ?:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000RYE5Y6/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=AD6O342M484G6

XLR to USB cable ?:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B6WZGHS/ref=ox_sc_act_title_4?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A1155GBV4DPEXU (If I don't need phantom power, I just need this cable right?)

Generic wind screen:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002GXF8Q/ref=ox_sc_act_title_6?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

I know this isn't ideal because I need like a mixer or something, but would it work decently? I would prefer if the price stayed the same, this is pushing my budget a bit.

Oh, and do I need an adapter for my microphone to go into the stand, stuff like that.

this party light has forever changed my festival camping experience. secure it to the top of your EZ up pointing towards the ground and you’re all set.

A standard 3.5mm male to female extender but it needs to be TRRS (4 pole)

I bought this one for my car and it works perfectly http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C4FU52C/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I'm waiting to get this one to keep in my wallet in case I need it at a friends house/party/etc
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AX8XIDK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

You're going to need a mixer, to take the audio from the microphones and the karaoke backing track and then put out the final version (also some people sing louder than others so you'll need to be able to adjust individual volumes).
This means you'll also need an amplifier, as most TV's don't have an audio in connection.
This means you'll also need speakers.

You could look at getting some decent amplified speakers, you only need one if you're doing this in a home.

Lastly, look into something like Karafun initially as the software. You can take out a 48 hour subscription for about £5 and then you have access to all their songs. Just read about no internet at farm, not even wireless data that you can tether via mobile phone?

So to recap, you need to purchase:

• Microphones (those KAMs will be fine)
  
• 2 XLR cables to connect microphones to mixer (two of these for instance http://www.amazon.co.uk/Stagg-High-Quality-Microphone-Cable/dp/B002YUAK54/)
  
• Mixer (only needs to be a small four channel one, something like this http://www.amazon.co.uk/Behringer-802-Input-Bus-Mixer/dp/B000J5XS3C/)
  
• Cable to connect audio out on laptop to the mixer (this needs to be a stereo 3.5mm connector to dual mono 1/4" connectors like this http://www.amazon.co.uk/HosaTech-CMP-159-3-5mm-Stereo-Breakout/dp/B005HGM1D6/)
  
• Either an amp + speakers, or, a powered speaker (something like this http://www.whybuynew.co.uk/speakers/qtx-sound-paj12a-paj-12a-active-speaker.htm)
  
• A cable to connect the mixer to the speaker, or amplifier, so a 1/4" to phono cable (make sure it's a long one http://www.amazon.co.uk/Stagg-STC3PCM-Twin-Phono-Cable/dp/B0030LWZDG/
  
• A long HDMI cable for your laptop (I'm assuming based on your post that the laptop has HDMI out)
  
• Software, look at Karafun, it's likely to do what you need and has all the songs
  
• Look at http://KaraokeDownloads.ca, it works out about £0.62 a song if you buy a 75 song credit pack from them
  
  Random question, I gather you're UK based, are you anywhere near London?

I bought this light that projects lights all over my room and I'm very happy with it. It syncs up with music and it just looks really cool.





The best black light I've ever gotten is this one and it's enough to light up my whole room. I used to have two black lights in my room and this one kicks both of their asses.

I'm not using any TS or TRRS connectors for the sm7b, it connects via usb. This is the xlr to usb cable I bought. It's used to connect the arttube to my pc. I believe I configured it correctly, with or without the phantom power running, the hiss is still there. I should definitely try taking it a friend's house though, thanks for suggesting that.

The only solution I can think of would be to find a weird female USB to TS and hope it works like my combination headset. Or perhaps this cable?

Unfortunately I'm no expert in the area.

You'd probably be better asking in something like /r/WeAreTheMusicMakers

Getting a mixer second hand is probably your best bet, but off the top of my head you'd need something like:

• Behringer 802 - 8 Input 2 Bus Mixer
  
• Dynamic XLR Microphones x2
  
• XLR cables x2
  
• Dual 1/4 inch jacks to 3.5mm Microphone Jack cable
  
  But please ask some experts, I've no idea if that setup would actually work. You'll be needing those 6 things though (1x Mixer, 2x Mics, 2x Mic Cables and 1x 3.5mm Mic jack to Mixer connection cable), maybe not those specific models though.

Get your canopy with really trippy colorful tapestries for walls and then leave this in the center:

https://www.amazon.com/Portable-Activated-Outdoor-Lighting-Birthday/dp/B06ZY5J73Y/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1527781577&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=disco+lights+battery+operated&dpPl=1&dpID=41mSqCZHyiL&ref=plSrch

Very easy cheap way to create a calm colorful atmosphere. Perfect for those chill sessions at 4 am after a full day of shenanigans.

Well in this hypothetical, assuming my friend doesn't live in a van down by the river, couldn't we share his amp, iPhone, tablet or computer while we jam? But if you're going to jam with your friend at his house and he only has a single input on his amp, perhaps he was equally foolish and bought a Fender frontman 10G then I guess I need a 1/4" Y splitter for $5.00.

https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-YPP-118-inch-Dual-Cable/dp/B000068O56/ref=sr_1_cc_1?s=aps&ie=UTF8&qid=1480701257&sr=1-1-catcorr&keywords=1%2F4+Y+splitter

But if that's what I do, if that's how I play guitar, then there are other types of gear I'd spend money on:

https://www.amazon.ca/Behringer-MX400-Ultra-Low-Noise-4-Channel/dp/B000KGYAYQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1480701616&sr=8-1&keywords=4+channel+mixer

https://www.amazon.ca/Mackie-402VLZ4-4-Channel-Compact-Mixer/dp/B00EDRUQXC/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1480701709&sr=8-2&keywords=4+Channel+mixer

Any of these three purchases are for gear that I will use and reuse if I become a professional musician. The Frontman 10G, I will discard into the trash bin when I get a good practice amp or rig.

Sounds like you need a mixer.

Behringer and Mackie both make great products. Remember that most of your devices are probably stereo, which is two inputs each.

So you need to mix 6 inputs to two outputs (right and left).

Behringer 1002 is a good example of this.

Channels 1 and 2 work as two independent mono channels. So it would be more convenient for you to plug your 3 devices into inputs 3/4, 5/6, and 7/8. This would give you a single volume knob per device.

From there, just plug your headphones into the "Phones" output. You might need to get a 1/4" to 1/8" adapter. They're real cheap.

A basic USB mixer like this Behringer (with external power supply) should handle the monitor switching. Mackie (not USB until it's around $300) and Alesis are higher end (better featured, sounding, durable) and will cost around 3x as much. Plug the computer via USB (the mixer is now your new soundcard), and the POD through the line-ins. I recommend getting active monitors, ideally used to maximize your budget. Get cables from monoprice.

OK this all makes sense. One concern I have is that right now everyone is using mod mics because it's equipment we already had. The sound is pretty good so I'm happy with them for now. If I grab this Mackie Mix Series Mix8 do I have more spending to do or is this good? Is there cheaper options?

There is absolutely no reason to have a wireless headset for the PS4, because the controller has a headset hookup right on it, which works great. Save yourself $75 to $100 and buy a nice wired headset. All you need to hook it up to the controller is something like this:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00D6NPH88/

If the wire sticking out at the bottom of your controller bothers you, you can also pick up this:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AX8XIDK/

Okay, thanks a bunch. So for example this for the chromecast and then this for the xlrs? Also maybe a dumb question but how does the chromecast work with everything, like where do I plug it in? Wouldn't I have to plug it in to all three to get it to work for all three or is that not how it works? Again, thanks.

How old is the old controller? I know that you haven't gotten a response in 3 months, but your most likely problem is that the new controllers have a cheaper alternative for the headphone port. The 4-pole connection shorts out when you try and use higher voltage items like headsets with in-line mics.

You basically will need to simply get an adapter or extension cable. This is one some people have had success with: click here.

Any 4-Pole 3.5mm Female-to-Male adapter will work, however. You'll just need to attach the adapter first, wait 3-5 seconds, then attach your headphones to the jack. Should work after that. If not, you might have a bad controller.

Good luck!

Sounds like a fun project!

 

I'd be concerned about timing and performance. If I was tasked with this project, I would be looking at the audio recording device very closely, cheap usb audio adapters might not cut it as quality and latency is a primary concern with recording real-time audio loops. FYI the Raspberry Pi audio jack is output only.

 

If you have the cash I would check out the [Pi-DAC audio card](https://www.tindie.com/products/IQaudIO/iqaudiocom-pi-dac-audio-card-with-headphone-support-for-the-raspberry-pi-b/
) by IQaudIO, it is made for the Raspberry Pi. If you are on a budget then you could try this cheap USB guitar audio adapter.

 

You'll need to install Debian for Raspberry Pi and ALSA

 

If your using USB audio and USB keyboard for trigging the recording you will need a small USB hub. External power supply might be required too.

> M MAKA Patch Cables

Sweet :) thanks.

fixed the link for you
M MAKA Patch Cables

The most straightforward way to do this, IMO, would be to use a "monitoring mixer". It'd be a simple hardware mixing board in-between all your audio sources and your speaker system.

So the turntable (after a preamp to take it to line-level) stereo outs go to the monitor board. The computer-out goes to the monitor board. The synth-out goes to the monitor board. You can leave them all connected, all the time, and just move the faders up and down for however loud you want to hear things.

Something like this with enough inputs to not worry would be ~$70-100 from Mackie or Monoprice. A little less from Behringer, but I'd avoid that brand in general if possible.
Here's an example of an 8-channel Mackie for $75:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ND1KGEI/

I've used a basic setup idea like this (and another small mixer on input) ever since I got into making music, and it works really well. Very flexible.

You need an amp to run between passive (non self-powered) speakers and the output source (controller). You didn't specify the speakers, but I would imagine they are passive since they have 1/4" TS connections... usually active speakers (self powered) have XLR inputs and sometimes additionally, have RCA and a mic input.

If, somehow, your speakers are active you'll just need this cord or this adapter, but I really would expect you need an amp. Having no idea what speakers you have, but knowing the next question will probably be what amp should you get, I'll just go ahead and put this here: Behringer Inuke. This is a budget amp, but it does a fairly good job. I have one running some subs and have zero complaints. If you end up needing more power, just look for the bigger versions.

I'd look into the JBL 3XXMkII line.

Powered Monitors, I have the 306P and I love them. Good bit of customization for rooms too on the back.

https://www.amazon.com/JBL-305PMKII-Powered-Studio-Monitor/dp/B077N2GQXC

You can connect to the XLR with something like this: https://www.amazon.com/TISINO-Stereo-Breakout-Double-Cords/dp/B07K58FTR8/

Also can add an budget Dac as an in-between (That's what I use)

Edit: Also a set of foam isolation pads to throw under them, bunch of options on amazon.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06ZY5J73Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_B6uNEcvXadHeh

It was great for late night campsite vibes at roo when we were all still tripping. I lost it for about an hour and then it turned up and everyone was so excited. Felt like a superhero, lol.

This is all you need to get the Bluetooth signal. You can leave it plugged in so that it won't run out of battery, but you may have to pair it again when you're away for a while as most Bluetooth devices will turn off automatically when disconnected and idle.

Then you just plug it into a cable like this and you should be good to go.

It shouldn't be that hard really. if your computer does have 5.1 out (which the card you listed seems to. come out 3.5 mm to XLR

http://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CYX-403M-Stereo-Breakout-Cable/dp/B000068OEP/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1459380451&sr=1-2&keywords=3.5+mm+to+xlr

that will plug into the INPUT of the amp you listed. then use

http://www.amazon.com/GLS-Audio-Cable-Patch-Cords/dp/B003JJQMD8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1459380540&sr=8-1&keywords=25%27+XLR (2 of those)

out of the amp to the but kickers. it will require being a little handy. You would need to cut off the female end of the xlr (the end NOT plugged into the amp) and attach positive and negative leads to the butt kicker pig tails. you can leave the ground loose, or run it to a metal part of the butt kicker frame..could help if you have a hum.

you shouldn't need a DI box as your PC already puts out line level. Those are really only needed for bringing mic level signals up to line level. (generally...not always..there are exceptions)

I would run the amp in stereo using each channel to run 1 butt kicker. If you wanted to run it in bridged mono (more power but be careful) you would have to use only 1 xlr cable, cut the female end off and attache both butt kickers to that one cable from the amp in parallel. thought it really wouldn't gain you anything. and keeping it stereo will give you independent volume control over each...should someone require more butt kicking than their movie watching counter part.

The cables I listed are just example, make sure you order the appropriate lengths. you can also go more or less expensive, but went kind of middle of the road but leaned towards budget friendly.

There is probably someone with more experience than I who can contribute more. I like the challenge of incorporating PA gear into a home theater setup.

Let me know how it works!

Edit: grammar is hard...

There are several models of Alesis USB powered monitors with varying connectivity options.

For example, the Alesis M1 Active 320 USB Powered Studio Monitors take USB or unbalanced RCA or TS inputs, and provides speaker level signal to the unpowered monitor through a TS connector.

The Alesis M1 Active 520 USB Studio Monitors take a pair of TRS balanced inputs, and provides speaker level signal to the unpowered monitor through a TRS connector.

Information about specific Alesis products is available at https://www.alesis.com. You may wish to refer to the manual of the specific Alesis USB monitors you are considering.

Most powered speakers that take balanced inputs will also take unbalanced inputs through an appropriate cable. There are many cables having one balanced end and one unbalanced end, for example:

https://www.amazon.com/TISINO-Stereo-Splitter-Unbalanced-Breakout/dp/B07DMWZPML/

https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-Connectors-Shielded-Oxygen-Free-Conductors/dp/B001UJH0XU/

Mackie makes a good 8 channel mixer for $75 with phantom power. They are a long time maker of mixers and this one has a ton of input and output options as well. The Behringer Xenyx 802 is similar in functions and layout for about $60. I've used a lot of Behringer stuff with no issues in the past.

Also, f you haven't checked them out, MXR makes some great sounding condenser mics that are inexpensive. I bought one new, and found two more on Craigslist.

Edit: If you need the mixer to go into your computer, Behringer sells a DAC for $30 (or cheaper used) and the tape out from the mixer goes into that, and then the digital out from the DAC goes to the usb on the computer.

Or save a lot of money and do what I did for my MXL 990 condenser mic. Buy a Phantom Power Supply and the XLR to USB cable. I am using this combo myself and it works perfectly fine! The only problem is that it takes up more space.

M MAKA Patch Cables

I bought a bunch and they are awesome.

Edit: if anyone knows a make-alike that are available on not Amazon, please let me know!

Edit2: trying to fix my but reddit is messing it up, thanks for fixing below

Based on this picture, I will try my best. Correct me if I am wrong:

https://www.tubefilter.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/couples-therapy.jpg

Headphones:

https://www.amazon.com/Sony-MDR7506-Professional-Diaphragm-Headphone/dp/B000AJIF4E

Microphone:

https://www.amazon.com/Shure-SM58-LC-Vocal-Microphone-Cardioid/dp/B000CZ0R42

Mixer:

https://www.amazon.com/Zoom-L-12-LiveTrak/dp/B074G25D6Y

If interested, I can tell you the setup I use for this podcast if you like the sound (My first time, still working out the kinks). It's portable too and I wouldn't have to guess the equipment:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OuoIcdQLoAE

I currently have the jbl lsr 305s and I'm looking to add a subwoofer. I play solely off my iphone 6 via google chromecast audio.

What gear do I need to make the jbl lsr 310 (the subwoofer) work? Do I just need XLR cables? Here are the ones I'm looking at: http://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-2-Pack-Plated-Microphone/dp/B00KO8VYMG?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=ox_sc_act_title_2&smid=A1AMUYYA3CT6HJ

Will I need an audio interface?

Thanks in advance

Yeah my mic has an XLR output.

http://www.amazon.com/AGPtek-Female-Microphone-Adapter-Connector/dp/B00B6WZGHS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1419045567&sr=8-1&keywords=xlr+to+usb

Can I get away with that instead? Might be too late at this point but trying to save money...

Yes, a passive mixer isn't designed to drive headphones. Also, the amplifier you linked to won't do the job. You need some kind of active mixer.

Something like this would probably do the job for you.

I started looking around a bit more at Automix and found the XR12. Could I pair that with a couple 3-packs of XM1800S along with appropriate cables and perhaps some desktop (conference table) stands?

The XR12 claims to be able to do "Revolutionary Dugan*-style Auto-Mixing automatically manages microphone gain sharing"

If you ever want to have callers/skypers/etc. on your show, make sure you get one that you can do a mix-minus with. Basically you'll want a mon-send or an fx-send. Look for at least a 2-bus mixer or you'll be limited to a single mix-minus connection.

I have a Behringer Q802USB - I should have just bought the 802 (not USB) for $15 less. Here's a little secrete I didn't know when I bought it - you can't use the USB bi-directionally. You're EITHER sending audio to the PC or receiving audio from the PC. So it didn't work for my needs to monitoring incoming audio from the PC and send my mic feed at the same time. I ended up buying a UCA202 USB interface and that solved my problem.

You'll hear the Behringer's are noisy. They are. If you drive the gain it gets really hissy. BUT keep the levels down and it works just fine. For under $80 it's really hard to beat.

If you're on a budget, and want to record 3 mic, I would maybe take a look at these:

Behring 1202
http://www.amazon.com/Behringer-1202-BEHRINGER-XENYX/dp/B000J5Y282/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1421430697&sr=8-1&keywords=behringer+1202

Alto Professional ZMX122FX
http://www.amazon.com/Alto-Professional-ZMX122FX-8-Channel-Preamps/dp/B004TM31FG/ref=sr_1_2?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1421430794&sr=1-2

Mackie 802VLZ4
http://www.amazon.com/Mackie-802VLZ4-8-channel-Compact-Quality/dp/B00EDHWLFI/ref=sr_1_33?ie=UTF8&qid=1421430841&sr=8-33&keywords=audio+mixer

Yamaha MG10XU
http://www.amazon.com/Yamaha-MG10XU-10-Input-Stereo-Mixer/dp/B00IBIVL42/ref=sr_1_61?ie=UTF8&qid=1421430887&sr=8-61&keywords=audio+mixer

For a really inexpensive 2-bus mixer with a sub-group, maybe the Behringer Eurorack UB1204. You get 2 aux sends + a 3-4 submix. I've not heard anything about these mixers - so I can't tell you if the mic pres are at all acceptable. Anyone will tell you if you're serious to stay away from Behringer.
http://www.amazon.com/Behringer-UB1204-PRO-BEHRINGER-EURORACK/dp/B00551VDIM/ref=sr_1_sc_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1421430950&sr=8-2-spell&keywords=behringer+euroack

Currently don't have any speakers mate, i was considering getting a pair of 598's i think ill sell my current microphone after i buy the new one and save for a pair of 598's.

I believe the AT2020 can come bundled with one, This i believe?

Thank you for all your help. I appreciate it, ill throw you some gold on your OG comment !check

A USB dynamic microphone, Similar to this one. Dynamic microphones generally are more directional than condenser microphones.

You could even pick up something like one of these guys and pair it with this cable.

Here is a review of the Knox and one for the PD Mic58.

Sounds like you need an audio interface with usb and line in input to work with the laptop and your cell phone. I would go with the interface for the computer. As the USB will send a cleaner signal vs the 3.5mm

Or get a cables like this.

https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CMP-159-Stereo-Breakout-Cable/dp/B005HGM1D6/ref=sr_1_25?crid=2ZG6HGWDZ4CLF&keywords=audio+interface+with+line+in&qid=1555876216&s=musical-instruments&sprefix=audio+interface+with+lin%2Cmi%2C236&sr=1-25

​

https://www.amazon.com/TISINO-Stereo-Splitter-Unbalanced-Breakout/dp/B07DMWZPML

The Behringer iNuke series is about the cheapest power amp I recommend in the "cheap as possible but probably won't catch fire" category.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Behringer-NU1000-Inuke-1000W-Amplifier/dp/B005EHIN12

Alternately shop used (gumtree/ebay/etc) for a used amp from a reputable brand like QSC, Crown, Crest, etc.

that Perception120 on Amazon is an XLR plug my camcorder only has a 3.5mm audio jack there is a conversion dongle? If so would that effect the noticeable quality?
http://www.amazon.com/Hosa-XVM-110M-Right-Angle-3-5mm/dp/B000K6B2DI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1415654239&sr=8-1&keywords=xlr+cable+to+3.5mm Something like this? right?

Going to add some more information again. If you had a budget high enough to buy another microphone, I imagine you have enough budget to splurge on a higher-model mixer in the same series. This is the model I use, but if that is a bit too much you can always go for a Xenyx 1002 they are $70, /u/flehrad has this model and likes it.

Behringer has a reputation, like em or not.

Sounds like you don't want to break the bank either, so Mackie is great. Just depends how much you want to spend.

8 channel for $72 Basic but does the job for the price.

12 channel with effects and usb

16 channel w/effects, rack mount, etc

Is this the Behringer one you're talking about? Is $250 what I can expect to pay for something like that or does it go any lower?

I guess what I'm looking for then is just a "digital mixer" with enough XLR inputs to accept however many mics I need.

Yeah, wireless definitely not required for the panel but it's much more convenient that way.

Then it may be your monitors. The older revision of these monitors was known for these issues, but they were supposed to have fixed it with the new revision . Are your monitors still within the return period? If so, just get a new pair. If it persists, then you most likely have a ground loop issue. It could be that your BX5’s just have a way of mitigating the noise.

The way I fixed my issue was with a cheap Mpow ground loop isolator from Amazon. Check it out.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B019393MV2

You will also need cables like this:
https://www.amazon.com/TISINO-Stereo-Y-Splitter-Breakout-Unbalanced/dp/B07K58FTR8

Oh my god, you're all morons. Go watch the video this image was taken from. The light show is a projected music visualization, from something like Milkdrop. Other than the color scheme, looks NOTHING like the lights in the worldcorp video, which seem to be from a projection device like this.

But yeah, pizzagate confirmed!11! and all that.

I'm looking to get a QSC amplifier with a built-in crossover. It takes a mono RCA/XLR signal in this configuration. I will be using a phone or chromecast audio as the source. My plan is to use this connector to convert from 3.5mm stereo to XLR mono. Will this work alright? I'm still not entirely certain about balanced/unbalanced loads and I want to make sure that this is a clean stereo -> mono conversion that won't have the channels cancel each other out. Thanks!

You need a mixer

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000J5WB4E/ref=mp_s_a_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1474368136&sr=8-9&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=behringer+mixer

Something like this would be fine.

Unfortunately, $300 for a 4 person set up is going to be hard to make work well since you're basically starting from scratch. That's not to say it can't be done. Unfortunately, I'm going to give recommendations based on what I know is cheaper from a reputable name and hope none of these are right out terrible.

Behringer Q1202USB 12-Channel Mixer. 4 mic inputs, USB connection, $100.

Behringer Ultravoice Xm8500 Dynamic Vocal Microphone, Cardioid 4 at $20 for $80. Alternatively, BEHRINGER ULTRAVOICE XM1800S is a pack with 3 mics for $40, with one from the last link, gets you 4 mics for $60.

Cable Matters 2-Pack Microphone Cable (Mic Cable/XLR to XLR Cable) 6 Feet 2 packs of 2 at $15 for $30.

NEEWER Adjustable Microphone Suspension Boom Scissor Arm Stand 4 at $12 for $50. Alternatively AmazonBasics Tripod Boom Microphone Stand if a desk mounted stand is not ideal or possible, 4 at $20 for $80

I'm also not sure the diameter of those mics but I recommend whichever one of these fits. On Stage MY325 Dynamic Shock Mount Microphone Clip or On Stage MY330 Wireless Shock Mount Microphone Clip both about $10, so $40 for 4.

Depending on what compromises you're willing to make, this is a pretty budget 4 person set up at $280-$330, and I'd recommend saving the last $100 or so you need for it.

So then this:
http://www.amazon.com/Valley-Female-Headphone-Microphone-Adapter/dp/B00AX8XIDK
ought to work as well, right? Maybe better for in-pocket use because there's no second connection six inches farther up; just at the phone.

Don't get that sub. Get a JBL 310s. It will make your life 30000% easier. Get a TC Electronics Level Pilot. x2 RCA to XLR converter. Dual XLR to Dual XLR cable.

TT > RCA to XLR converter > Level Pilot > XLR Cables > JBL Sub > XLR Cables > JBL Monitors.

x2: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000068O4G/ (turntable outs to Pilot in)
x2 (4 cables): https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00KO8VYMG/ pilot to sub and sub to monitors.

Yes, I am using this cable

Make sure you buy the following extras with that mic bundle, or your PC will not pick up your voice:
http://www.amazon.co.uk/BTSKY-trade-Condenser-Recording-Microphone/dp/B00S0QAA5Q/ref=pd_bxgy_267_img_2?ie=UTF8&refRID=1G35WAVXSJRHN5J34VWG

 

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Stagg-High-Quality-Microphone-Cable/dp/B002YUAK54/ref=pd_bxgy_267_img_3?ie=UTF8&refRID=1G35WAVXSJRHN5J34VWG

I currently use the Zoom H5 with the EXH-6 Dual XLR/TRS Capsule, which supports up to 4 channels. My dream upgrade is the Zoom LiveTrak L-12, which has 8 XLR inputs and two stereo inputs. It's $600 on Amazon but regularly goes down to $500.

You'll probably have to build yourself a stage unless you want to buy your own, but that can be pricey.


You'd want a mixer, XLRs, microphone, microphone stand, and speaker

You'll need a 1/4 jack to XLR (both male). Like one of these.

Then on the backplate of the sub there should be an XLR OUTPUT. So you'll need an XLR Female to XLR male to your speakers,

It was the second one. I think I understand what you're saying now.

Would something like this work to just have 1 volume knob or would I be in the same boat as before? Hosa XVM-110M Right Angle 3.5mm TRS to XLR3M 10 Ft https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000K6B2DI/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_A4QNwb330PDSW

Neewer Mic Stand
$15 ish

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DY1F2CS/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_cu8Zxb1WCA7N5

AT2020 $88


https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0006H92QK/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_kv8ZxbDDA21QD

Scarlett Solo $100

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01E6T56CM/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_3y8ZxbHHPDGMC

Hosa XLR cable $12


https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004TPDBGC/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_sC8ZxbZJZGRXD

This is almost identical to what I used for a while, besides us having a gen 1 2i2 instead of a gen 2 solo. You can upgrade the microphone down the line without upgrading the interface.

Whether or not you can get free shipping will probably impact shipping a lot, we have prime so I'm not sure how much shipping will cost.

I would recommend you to try the stuff out before buying audio equipment if possible. I feel like with this much money you shouldn't leave anything to a leap of faith, plus what mic suits my voice can be a lot different than what suits yours.

Edit: I forgot to mention: I hate the Neewer stand, but I can't possibly recommend the Rode PSA1 to someone with a 200-300 budget.

Yep. There's a few cheap high wattage amps for home audio too.

>Gold plating on wires is of dubious quality. It is only useful if both the connector on the gear and the wire is of the same material. If you have a gold plated connector on your cable and your equipment’s connector is a different metal it will cause galvanic corrosion. This kills the equipment.

Correct. I said elsewhere that I was full of shit, I didn't know what I was talking about with this. I'm not sure why I said the stupid things I did about gold plating.

>I will concede that Monster Cables have a great warranty. But there might be a better way. Take [2] this cable and [3] this cable. If you bought the monster cable and it broke, you could go back to the store and get a new one. (Provided that the store is still in business.) You could also buy 3 of the cheaper cables, have two backup wires, and still have half your money.

>Wires on stage are another matter as you mentioned, they are also made differently. Music production usually uses [4] XLR cables which has a balanced line construction. This makes any stray interference in the wire [5] common mode and much easier to deal with.

Yeah, you're right about this, but for XLR, Monster's prices are much more in line with an average priced cable.

I'm not saying that monster isn't a rip off for home audio/video, but for professional equipment, the extra price could be worth it after a single break.

Got it from amazon. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00W1RTVGO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Hello!

Looking for a small mixer ( or maybe something similar ) that has only pan-able channels. For example: However with 4 mono inputs w/ pan as oppossed to 2 mono pan inputs then two stereo balance inputs.

Essentially I'm wanting to route 4+ inputs to 2 outputs where the outputs are to different signal chains not traditional left/right. So channels w/o pan are useless and desk space is at a premium.

Thanks!

My one in particular? I can if you want but this is the one I bought.

The microphone works and records but I have to unplug it in order to hear the recordings.

If you want simple and cheap, Pyle has a lightweight double-DI box for $15, and you will need two [speaker cables] (http://www.amazon.com/Rapco-Horizon-SRS18-3-StageMASTER-Connectors/dp/B00HB78DSQ). You will also need XLR cables to go from the DI to the recorder.

Those connectors you're using are prone to damaging pedals, so good call on that.

You can get super slim connectors like these that are flexible and very low profile. I'm not recommending these specific ones necessarily, just the first link I found. Warwick makes some, I think D'Addario have some, lots of the big names make them.

I'm looking for an audiophile-quality audio mixer with USB input(s) also, and a minimum of 3 channels. I've been looking at the Behringer XR12. Are there any other makes/models I should be taking a look at, besides the XR12?

https://www.amazon.com/Mackie-Mix-Mix8-8-Channel-Mixer/dp/B00ND1KGEI

I'm getting this to run my jbl w15 gti in the near future. Wire your IDMAX up to 8 ohms and you should be set.

I must’ve purchased it during a lightning deal, but here is ours.

http://www.amazon.com/B-B-King-Greatest-Hits/dp/B00000ADG3/ref=tmm_acd_swatch_0?_encoding=UTF8&sr=&qid=

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003JJQMD8/ref=s9_qpp_gw_p267_d84_i1?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=desktop-7&pf_rd_r=137X3NYX2ANGXPXHM7GH&pf_rd_t=36701&pf_rd_p=1970566542&pf_rd_i=desktop

http://www.amazon.com/John-Green-Box-Set/dp/0147515009/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1419218323&sr=8-4&keywords=the+fault+in+our+stars

They were all meant for my father

3.5mm to XLR Adapters exist - I should have added that in my description but I forgot what they were called.

https://www.amazon.com/GLS-Audio-Cable-Patch-Cords/dp/B003JJQMD8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1481398801&sr=8-1&keywords=XLR+cable+GLS

Heres a link

will the at2020 work if i use this converter
https://www.amazon.com/AGPtek-Microphone-female-Adapter-Connector/dp/B005HH2GCQ

For the mic?

In that case, get an MXL 770 and a Mackie 402VLZ4.

(I'm a producer if you can't tell)

What you need is:
Chromecast -> 3.5mm to 2x TS -> Subwoofer -> 2xXLR -> Each monitor

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00W1RTVGO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_KAWkybHV9HTRX

If you are looking for small and cheap this could do you ok..

https://www.google.com/aclk?sa=L&ai=DChcSEwi9pLy5wcbhAhXxIK0GHR4YCZkYABAKGgJwdg&ae=1&sig=AOD64_2znaVgVKB8rhUth8QpuzJlKMZW_A&ctype=5&q=&ved=2ahUKEwiIybW5wcbhAhWT9Z4KHdoXCJ8Qwg96BAgLEBQ&adurl=https://www.amazon.ca/Behringer-1002-Premium-10-Input-Preamps/dp/B000J5WB4E/ref%3Dasc_df_B000J5WB4E/%3Ftag%3Dgooglemobshop-20%26linkCode%3Ddf0%26hvadid%3D292945958873%26hvpos%3D1o3%26hvnetw%3Dg%26hvrand%3D134113748437345157%26hvpone%3D%26hvptwo%3D%26hvqmt%3D%26hvdev%3Dm%26hvdvcmdl%3D%26hvlocint%3D%26hvlocphy%3D9060756%26hvtargid%3Dpla-435943820111%26psc%3D1

what do you mean? how do i get the music i'm singing over to come back through the mixer without running a line back into the mixer? this is the mixer

http://www.amazon.com/Behringer-XENYX-1002-10-Channel-Mixer/dp/B000J5WB4E

Here's a link! There are many variations to it available online, this is just the one I have specifically.

Lasers. Lights. Dancing.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00HMD0TK4/ref=ox_sc_act_image_2?smid=A2I223P5XULJFV&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00W1RTVGO/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1486427864&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=disco+lights&dpPl=1&dpID=51dZXikETFL&ref=plSrch

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01AWD1NZK/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1486427909&sr=8-4&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=laser+dome&dpPl=1&dpID=41NzFjGVwFL&ref=plSrch


Also!!! Kaleidoscopic glasses and Diffraction glasses!

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00T8QSS7Y/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1486428120&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=diffraction+glasses&dpPl=1&dpID=41VJusqyxAL&ref=plSrch

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00HFQOFFI/ref=mp_s_a_1_2_a_it?ie=UTF8&qid=1486428187&sr=8-2&keywords=kaleidoscope+glasses

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00W1RTVGO/ref=pd_aw_sim_60_2?ie=UTF8&dpID=51r69VysURL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL100_SR100%2C100_&refRID=H9BNG4863X6Y7HM0QA83

I buy my personal XLR's from Amazon here in the UK. However the ones I use for work are Van Damme with Neutirk connectors and are a lot more expensive. But they get a lot more use.

The thing about XLR's is that they last a whole lot longer if you learn to coil them up properly using the over-under method. Wrap them around your elbow or coil them around an object and they won't last five minutes.

Alto TrueSonic speakers and a small, budget mixer. Going to be closer to your $600 range though. I'm not sure you'll get much coverage for 100-200 people on a $400 system.

https://www.amazon.com/Alto-Professional-TS215-Loudspeaker-Integrated/dp/B018W4719I/ref=pd_lpo_267_tr_t_3?_encoding=UTF8&refRID=7YHCYKV3VDJ5PETE7QG9&th=1

Changed my mind on the mixer:

https://www.amazon.com/Mackie-Mix-Mix8-8-Channel-Mixer/dp/B00ND1KGEI/ref=sr_1_1?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1483728291&sr=1-1&keywords=mackie%2Bmixer&th=1

I have one of these mixers that I use for blending all my shit together also lets me play through headphones if I want.

> Would I just use 2 1/4 to XLR wires to connect the speakers to the sub, 1 for each speaker?

No. You need this type of cable. Basically "XLR Microphone cable".

My house is not humid at all. http://www.amazon.co.uk/Stagg-High-Quality-Microphone-Cable/dp/B002YUAK54/ref=pd_sim_267_1?ie=UTF8&dpID=41A14XWa3kL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=1N2GJC1TX8HQXGT0KY9X are teh cables I am using according to the seller they are balanced.

This problem continues if just plugged directly into mixer. Any other ideas this is killing me :S

Haha thanks for pointing out the chapstick. I guess I accidentally pasted the wrong link from a different post of mine. I meant this cable.

But aside for the connectors being slightly to big, it's not like the cheap cables give worse audio or anything similar?


I'm considering getting this recorder to pair with my xlr cable.

I know of one solution, but sadly you have to be rooted. :(

Here is the gist for anyone else who has this:

> If you are rooted, you can completely disable the button until a reflash. That fixed it for me. You'll want to edit /system/usr/keylayout/Generic.kl and remove the line "key 226 HEADSETHOOK" (or prepend "#") and reboot.

The problem is the LG headphone jack is recognizing the headphones as a TRRS which is used in headsets integrated with microphones instead of just TRS (which is stereo audio headphones).

Lots of users have reported success with using TRRS adapters between the jack and the headphones.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AX8XIDK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Death by stoning doesn't sound so bad in some contexts.

Black lights can damage your eyes, replace it with one of these

Not sure if you ever figured it out but I'm techie and i know a thing or two about audio recording and such. First thing first, what EXACTLY are you having trouble with?

Based on what i see, the issue is you need to convert the signal from the power source to the sound card with something like this adapter.

That would at least get it working, although i have no idea how it would sound because of all of the adapters. Laptops make things difficult sometimes :X

But i'd have no trouble helping you figure it out if you haven't already. Either reply here and PM if you have more issues.