Reddit mentions: The best wheel immobilizers & chocks

Hey! Sorry for the delay.

It did end up working out! Here is an album of how it fit

I bought two wheel chocks that had a metal support bar. I drilled a set of 1/2" holes on either side and mounted the chocks to the bar. It's a tight fit, but it worked out perfectly.

Strap-wise, I strapped the outer handlebars to the trailer's corner strap points, which was basically the only thing that secured the chock to the trailer (more on this later). I then strapped the inner handlebars to the opposite chock, to pull the bike into the chock as there wasn't a trailer strap point. I played around with the rear straps, it seems if you secure the outer side of each swingarm to the middle strap point on the trailer, this helps pull the bike forward into the chock. I then strapped the inside of each swingarm to the trailer's opposite side corner strap point (left bike inner swingarm, right corner).

During the trip home from the track yesterday the chock assembly did slide around a bit due to rough roads. I left the front straps a bit looser to be easy on the suspension, so this may have played a factor. the rears of the bikes didn't move. Either way, I'm going to build an adapter to bolt into the drain hole that's in the middle of the trailer's wheel chock. I'm thinking a couple eye bolts and a bigass turnbuckle should do the trick, or it may be as simple as an L-bracket or angle iron bolted on. I've got to do this again in a couple weeks, so I'll update on what I do.

Some tips:

1. The big risk is loading and unloading. There are proper ways to do this and poor ways to do this. Watch some instructional videos on how to properly use ramps and walk the bike up the ramp under its own power in first gear (you stand next to the bike).
   
   
2. You will need to strap down the front at the bars or triples and the rear at the rear wheel. Make sure to take not more than HALF the travel out of the front forks. If you over compress the forks, you can blow the seals, if you don't compress them enough, the bike will bounce a bit when you hit bumps.
   
   
3. The best way to do this is to use a front wheel chock in the bed of the truck, bolted to the truck bed if possible. One like this would be amazing: http://www.amazon.com/Maxxtow-Towing-Products-70075-Motorcycle/dp/B008CE0O8E/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1414630371&sr=8-1&keywords=motorcycle+chock
   
   
4. Its ok if the rear wheel is partially on the tailgate, but its less than ideal. As long as the weight is CLOSE to where the tailgate meets the truck bed, the amount of torque placed on the tailgate hinge will be minimized. The further back the wheel rests on the gate, the more lever force that is imparted to the tailgate hinge.
   
   
5. BUY QUALITY STRAPS. Don't go get the cheap stuff, get the super heavy duty ones that are designed to safely anchor to your triple trees. Do NOT put the straps over your controls (grips, levers, buttons, mirrors), make sure they are solidly attached to the triples or the bars right at the triples. This kit is a good quality kit: http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com/26156/i/powertye-fat-strap-trailer-kits?WT.ac=SLIsearch
   
   IMVHO, this is the wrong way:
   
   http://www.etrailer.com/Merchant2/graphics/00000001/pics/0/6/06303_v_500.jpg
   
   This way makes more sense to me, as it does not put load on your grips or throttle tube:
   
   http://www.motorcycleracks.net/images/TieDownFrontStrap.jpg
   
   

Yes, they will both fit. I do around 15 trackdays/year and sometimes bring someone else's bike, all on the back of my F150. I'll give you the "best" practice and the "budget" practice:

Budget: Get two cycle cynchs, like these. With both bikes facing the cab, strap the left bike from the left clip on to the left hook on the bed, then use another strap from the right clip on to the left clip of the bike on the right... then strap, right clip on to right hook on bed. DO NOT USE RATCHET STRAPS... they will compress the forks too much and you WILL blow your fork seals. Use straps that can be hand tightened, like the ones that come with the cycle cynch. Just make sure you tie the unused length of strap and tighten it right below the handle, so that the straps can't back out. If you don't do this, they WILL back out. For extra security, you can run a strap from the hooks on the rear of the bed through the wheels, just so the bikes doesn't move back and forth. I've done this before without incident.

Best practice: Get two of these or something like them. Then use the cycle cynch or soft ties to do what's described above. The bikes will be significantly safer, this is the method I use now with my Ducati and I never have to worry about it moving around.

If this doesn't make any sense... sorry? I'm not a gifted writer.

i've also broken many of the cheapo plastics, but these right here, these are great. heavy rubber, nice and tall, molded in handle.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01HJ85Q3Q/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I do have xchocks - they go on last just stabilize. but for general "don't roll away" chocking, i love these big heavy rubber ones.

We have several different roll-on chocks in our trailer but this is the winner by far, cheapest too. Really hugs the tire, makes it a little challenging to remove (as seen in the reviews) but honestly it's a perk in my book. Seems the bike steady and doesn't waddle like many others. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00C4YNDHM/

When you camp like this you typically cook/clean/meal prep on your open tailgate so having a level surface is ideal. Also helps to not sleep on an incline. Many campsites are sloped and uneven, so aligning your vehicle for the easiest access and best views can be a challenge.

Camping trailers and RVs typically have scissor jacks on the corners for this reason. The more common method to level your vehicle is to use these lego style blocks. However that involves trial and error and can take a while and you are limited in the adjustments to the thickness of the blocks.

https://www.amazon.com/Tri-Lynx-00015-Lynx-Levelers-Pack/dp/B0028PJ10K

This design allows for finer adjustments, depending on how good you are using the gas and brake pedals simultaneously. 😎👍

If I had to do it again I would. It is heavy AF, and awkward to get home. (As far as I know they will only help you get it into a pickup truck. Heavy end forward of course, but that makes it really hard to unload by yourself) As others have mentioned, the front chock should probably be replaced with something beefier, (I used this) and it doesn't spin worth a shit. The ramp does come off easily but it obviously does take up a motorcycle's worth of space in the garage.

But other than that, its fluffy white clouds. If you couple it with one of these you will be ready for anything. I threw a couple extra C clamps on it for additional mobile tie downs, useful if you want to raise the front or the back wheel.

I didn't buy it on Amazon, but this is the same model that you see in the picture. The LED signals/brake lights are MUCH brighter. I had also gotten nice LED drop-in headlight bulbs that only cost me $80 and are much brighter and have a better spread in the stock headlight than most whole headlight replacements that I've seen. I got those bulbs the first month I had the bike, though. The stock headlight was so dim it felt dangerous.

you mean like this:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=40TI3Zrzl1Y

here's one that looks interesting:

https://www.amazon.com/Trimax-TCL65-Wheel-Chock-Lock/dp/B0031XULF2/ref=pd_sim_263_7?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B0031XULF2&pd_rd_r=V1PRCTSH3QE9DJWCC0D7&pd_rd_w=oEykm&pd_rd_wg=XoRGN&psc=1&refRID=V1PRCTSH3QE9DJWCC0D7

It looks like a good layer 1 of a perimeter defense.

One note- when I had that trailer (it was my first m/c trailer, I have a 16' enclosed trailer now) I put Pit Posse/Pingel-style chocks on it and was able to put 3 sets of mounting plates in the 3 bike positions (left, center, right) at the right spacing for the bikes to co-exist, and then could swap from a single-bike with one chock to a two-bike setup with two chocks in like 30 seconds. Coupled with a cheap ATV ramp as wide as the trailer it was a very cheap and easy trailering setup. Add some nice strapping points around the edge of the trailer and it'll do the job well for a long time.

If you're planning to keep it a while, adding additional bolt-in bracing to the deck isn't a bad idea, or even just some 2x4 stiffening cross-members to help keep the trailer from "taco-ing" when you strap down the bikes.

I don’t have a 5th wheel, but a travel trailer.

In my experience I have to chock one side of the trailer tight to eliminate the wiggle.
So using one of those chocks that fit between the tires and you clamp down I would anticipate will resolve your issue.
My 20’ is a single axle and I use this.

Mechanically I could only see the tripod as helping with vertical and not lateral motions.

I love seeing the GXs out there.

Pick up a set of these to make leveling SO much easier. Most smartphones have a level on them too...

https://www.amazon.com/Tri-Lynx-00015-Lynx-Levelers-Pack/dp/B0028PJ10K/ref=sr_1_4?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1537759070&sr=1-4&keywords=rv+leveling+blocks&dpID=51jMjecwppL&preST=_SX300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

Take my opinion with a grain of salt because I was responsible for safety with a fleet of trucks and industrial equipment. My recommendation is get big heavy rubber ones. This isn't for everyone, if you're trailer weights less than your truck then yeah small rubber ones are fine. Some brands have wheel size recommendations, if you have big tires you need a bigger chock. They also have capacity ratings.

General rule, if you forget to remove the chocks and can drive over them without noticing they are probably too small.

Great way to test them is to park your truck on a hill, (without trailer) put the chocks behind your tires then. Hop back in the truck and put it in neutral. If you roll over them they are too small for your trailer. Not a perfect test but will be close to what your trailer is like parked in most scenarios

This use 4 of these, with string on them for picking up. 2 on each side on each side, https://www.globalindustrial.com/p/material-handling/dock-truck/chocks-wheel-tire/rubber-wheel-tire-chock-10-l-x-8-w-x-6-h?infoParam.campaignId=T9F&gclid=Cj0KCQjw753rBRCVARIsANe3o44UBJLk1YGHdTaWTYywqGi8A-A8Z2EAxnpdPhXWITrEAw3e4EUGVo8aAlEBEALw_wcB

Trailer thefts happen all over the damn place. Here is an article of one in Orange, CA. One of the safest cities in the country. Many years ago, I used to deliver products to several cities around the west. I always took precaution s in securing the trailer I was towing. Every trailer I hauled had one of these, as well as one of these. Never had a problem. Point is, take precautions in securing your valuable, no matter where you are.

The issue is, really, that the P30 chassis was built to a spec... and then the motor-home/coach builders said 'fuck that spec' and just built whatever they wanted on top of it. Extra axles, lengthening the frame to absurd levels, not changing specs on brakes, etc. I had a 97 fleetwood that was 3000lbs heavier than the chassis rating, and 1000lbs heavier than what it's own label said it was (empty!)

One thing I see a lot on P30s is the front sway-bar bushings are completely gone. Enough so that the sway-bar is completely disconnected (only the bushings hold it on!) Take a look underneath, make sure that the swaybar is even there... without it in place and with solid bushings, that rig will be absurdly difficult to control, and a white knuckle ride all along. I like Energy Suspensions poly, super firm, makes the vehicle feel totally different. Check the rear sway as well.

Front steering bellcranks are commonly worn too. Give em a wiggle, if they move at all, they are worn out and the vehicle will just kind of have a bit of a mind of its own. Give it a good brake check. The ABS system sometimes goes awry and it's pucker factor 9.0 when you're rolling that fat bitch down a hill and the pedal sinks. At the very least, bleed and inspect the brakes and their pads, pretty much assured to not have ever been done.

Look at how low the front of the frame is to the ground. If you get a flat, do you have a jack onboard that will fit under there? Probably not. P30s are 'heavy' enough that you'll be calling a heavy wrecker for a tow, or paying for heavy-duty roadside, which can be spendy. Find a jack that will fit under there with a flat tire, and make sure you have a nice long lugwrench to get those lugs off. Keep em onboard. Also some 2x6's or Lynx Levelers so you can roll a flat up onto them to get some clearance. Also handy for leveling the rig on when camping!

Your tires most likely will be aged out, and dryrotted, before they wear tread down. If the tires are over 3 years old, or over 5 if they were covered, consider replacing them. Also, duals have a tendency to go low on air and cover it up thanks to it's neighbor, especially insides. Get a proper air gauge, and make it a point to verify all 6 tires PSI every time you stop for fuel. At the very least, when you start a trip.

Parking brake is almost assuredly crap, doubly so if it's an auto-parking brake. Get chocks, read up on how it works now (there are a few versions, and you can end up locked up and stuck if some versions fail.)

Another tip: If you are going somewhere with water, dont fill up. If you are going somewhere without water, fillup as close as you can to the destination. Lugging around 100 gallons of water (around 850lbs) adds a lot of annoying mass to your machine. Learn about the plumbing, water pumps, one way valves, water heaters, and pex pipes are very common failures that can end your trip!

These scissor chocks look neat and were recommended in another thread: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AZS7GO0/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I've been surprised how much I like/use leveling blocks. I got this kind, but they are all basically chunks of plastic.

OP: They take up a lot of space so I wouldn't make them a gift unless I knew the recipient was interested them.

I think those are something you can buy to protect your car.

http://www.amazon.com/Trimax-TCL65-Wheel-Chock-Lock/dp/B0031XULF2/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1413135249&sr=8-3&keywords=wheel+boot

Tow truck driver here. That guy is in a whole world of hurt. He isn't wearing his PPE for one. He should be using something like the condor. I've towed a couple without it but always when I had another company hand with me to help hold the bike while it's rolled up the bed via wench and sling or recovery strap.

On a personal note, what a fucking dick.

Downside to a trailer is the 55 mph speed limit. The hitch is rated for 500 lbs, the carrier 300 lbs, and my bike is about 250. Still scares me but seems to do its thang. Trailers are just easier to use tho, especially if you get one of these:
http://www.amazon.com/Pit-Posse-Motorcycle-Strapless-Adjustable/dp/B004V9Z02Y

Just to add on the above list, I'm a big fan of the roll-in bike stand in the back of a truck, or in the garage.

There's a free standing version too.

I'm calling fake. Looks like one of those small boots you can buy to secure your car/boat/rv/etc. from getting stollen.

Those boots look like the kind people put on their personal vehicles to prevent the car from being stolen. The wheel hubs aren't covered and the driver could just come back with his original wheels and drive away.

http://www.amazon.com/Trimax-TCL65-Wheel-Chock-Lock/dp/B0031XULF2/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1413126210&sr=8-4&keywords=parking+boot

They stack up kind of like legos. I carry a set of ten. they come in handy.

https://www.amazon.com/Tri-Lynx-00015-Lynx-Levelers-Pack/dp/B0028PJ10K

just buy a boot on amazon...

This.

Ramps >> jack for oil changes.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0117EETEK

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HJ85Q3Q/

https://www.amazon.com/Esco-12594-Safety-Yellow-Wheel/dp/B07HZ4X89F/ref=sr_1_16?ie=UTF8&qid=1538754316&sr=8-16&keywords=wheel+chocks+tractor+trailer

Engine oil

wheel chock

You get a wheel chock with a handle or get a cheap chock and fabri-cobble a handle onto it.

http://www.amazon.com/Trimax-TCL65-Wheel-Chock-Lock/dp/B0031XULF2

You could buy a boot. https://www.amazon.com/Trimax-TCL65-Wheel-Chock-Lock/dp/B0031XULF2

I bought these for this eventuality, but I haven't had to use them yet: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0028PJ10K

Look for a single axel locking chock or a Bal single axle leveling jack. This will reduce movement from the wheels moving.
BAL 28050 Light Trailer Tire Leveler https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BH5MAA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_PgjnDbAFSK55S

BAL 28020 Single Axle Tire Chock https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001UGPEJA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_MhjnDbYSRYTW1

This would not have happened with a Trimax TCL75 Wheel Chock Lock

These guys. Mixed results for me, they do much better on asphalt but gravel sometimes they becone damaged. I still like em though

Tri-Lynx 00015 Lynx Levelers - 10 Pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0028PJ10K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_McYADbZF2238R

In addition to a coupler lock, get lug nut locks and whatever wheel you put the lug nut locks on throw in one of these.
https://www.amazon.com/Trimax-TCL75-Wheel-Chock-Lock/dp/B001H494DC
This will make it so that there is almost no way someone can take the trailer.

I should have elaborated a bit more. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AZS7GO0/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

These are what I was referring to. I also have the X Chocks and They also make a big difference.

We always have issues with the normal chocks with them getting stuck under the tire and have to back up or pull forward to get them out. These chocks I recently got don't have that issue.

Poor people can use Lynx levelers. Blows your stealth, tho'.

Steering wheel lock is the most realistic, but there are also wheel chock locks. The problem is if the thief tried to drive off it could mess the car up. Disconnecting the battery is also an easy simple deterrent.