Reddit mentions: The best tire & wheel tools

Ok, after four months with the car, here goes...

​

Charging

• Wall Connector $500. Not necessary but I'd recommend biting the bullet before taking delivery, so you can keep the mobile charger in the car. The electrical work took 2 hours of time, at $130/hr. I highly recommend installing a dedicated 60-amp breaker and an efficient gauge wire which will give you 45 mi/hr of charge.
  
• Charging Adapters $35. Car comes with the 5-15 and 14-50. I strongly recommend buying the 5-20. If you plan to charge at someone else's house on a roadtrip, ask them to send you a picture of their dryer plug. So far, I've needed the 10-30 and 14-30.
  
• NEMA 5-15P to 5-20R Adapter $20. Strongly recommended in combo with Tesla's 5-20 adapter to "cheat" a 16-amp charge (33% faster charging). Must-watch this video, and must-read here, here, here, and here.
  
  Tesla OEM
  
  
• Cargo Mats for Frunk & Trunk $70 & $130. Must-have some sort of trunk mat, since the trunk material is generally poor quality for heavy use.
  
• Front Sunshade $75. Living in Florida, this is a must-have if you dont plan on tinting the top glass panel. The "front" is acutally the middle of the three glass panels, not the windshield.
  
• Paint Repair Kit $55. Nice to have so you're ready for rock chips. So far I've had one that made it through the black paint and silver primer.
  
  Detailing
  
  
• Aero Cosmetics Complete Car Kit $40. Highly recommended. Pricey but saves time for amazing results. Cheaper and better quality than CarGuys products. I liked it so much that I ended up buying this also.
  
• Invisible Glass Spray Cleaner $4. Recommended that you have some glass cleaner that's not Windex. This brand is one of the best.
  
• Wash Mitt 2-pack $16. Highly recommended compared to a wet rag.
  
• Tire and Wheel Brush $8. It's important to segregate parts you use on wheels from parts you use on paint. This product is solid.
  
• Grit Guard $8. Totally optional. Helps separate dirt in the bucket when cleaning. You'll see a difference in the water.
  
  Third-Party
  
  
• Tough-Pro Interior Mats $80. My opinion is that all-weather mats are a must-have. The stock mats are crappy, and all-weather mats make cleaning easier. These are cheaper than Tesla's all-weather mats. I'm happy with them but I'd buy the OEM Tesla ones if I could do it again.
  
• Upgraded White LED Lights $13-$77. Must-have for the trunk. Optional for others. I replaced all 7 non-footwell. Easy install with a credit card. As a bonus, I have one left over, so PM me if you want it.
  
• Kenriko Matte Wrap for Center Console $30. Must-have. Watch his install videos first. Customer service is excellent if you screw up the install like I did. The matte black matches the black leather interior perfectly. I'm sure the matte white is nice too.
  
• Pet Cover for Trunk $45. I couldn't find anything better for driving my dogs, so I use this one with the back seats down, along with Tesla's rubber trunk mat. I'd say my setup prevents 90% of dog wear, and keeps any dog smell to a minimum.
  
• Nomad Wireless Charger $130. Nice to have. Not available until end of November, but battery is integrated unlike the comeptitor's.
  
• Rubber Cupholder Liners $25. Optional, helps with cleaning.
  
• Drop Stop $20. Optional, makes life easier.
  
• Air Compressor $25. Optional but recommended. Look for one with automatic shutoff.
  
• Tire Plug Kit $8. If you're handy, this is a cheap solution to be ready for a flat. If you're not handy, get Tesla's tire repair kit.
  
• Card Holder $5. Optional. Keep in your center console so valet has a way to hang your card key.

Had a post like this awhile ago with more insight for those who care...

I guess I can repost my own post:

I do this kind of thing as a part time job for CDOT (Colorado Dept of Transportation) when I want extra money to buy something stupid, so I have some good insight as to what gets people stuck.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
>An extra belt and a breaker bar big enough to move the tensioner.

I mean, I don't carry an extra belt, but I'm pretty good about checking wear on it every few weeks or so. However, a breaker bar is definitely definite definitely recommended. It's most useful for wheel lugs, but it'll work on a belt tensioner too.

>Spare hose clamp for if you blow a radiator hose off/ intake hose/ turbo hose/ whatever. They cost like nothing (literal cents), but when you need it you need it. You ain't going anywhere with no air intake/ turbo intake/ coolant hose.

>Bottle jack? instead of the stock scissor jack?

No you don't need a full size floor jack.

If you have a regular passenger car (like a 4 door car) the scissor jack will work fine. They are kind of tedious to jack up and down but it's for an emergency, not everyday use. The bottle jack is a good idea for large SUV, Trucks, and RVs. Make sure you have a base or something on it if you have any sort of lift. Also remember that you will have to jack up much further to install the inflated tire than you had to for the flat one.

Only other advice I have here is actually pull that jack out and figure out how to use it. They all gotta be different and some are like oragami in how this click into that, which slides onto that... Reading the user manual and deciphering the IKEA-esque pictures on the side of the road just adds frustration and stress to the already crappy situation.

>Fix-a-flat kit

Meh. A spare tire is the better option. Make sure you check it's inflated at least every couple months. It's very very common that people have a spare, but that its flat. It does you no good as a spare if it's flat. A tire plug kit a definitely a good thing though. If you do HAVE to use the fix a flat, prepare to have a tire shop guy charge you twice when they find it all over the wheel. It's a nightmare to clean off, and as others have said will ruin you TPMS sensor. Depending on the make/model of your car this could be another $35 to $100 you have to spend, in addition to a new tire.

>Lights! and flares

(Ignore the guy in the comments that said lights are only emergency vehicles. He has no idea what he's talking about)

For an emergency kit, flares are better since they don't require batteries (that you will forget to change/ charge). However, lots of road flares last 30 - 60 minutes. It should take you 20 to change a flat. Be careful with the flares as many types drip as they burn. Don't light yourself or the side of the road on fire. I know you're thinking "well duh" but it happens every year in CO where I live. Someone lights the brush on fire near the highway cause they put flares out and got to fixing their car and not paying attention.

That said, you can get LED road flares that are bright and really good at attracting attention. Look up the laws in your area. Some places restrict the color you can use. Amber (orange) is usually a pretty safe color to choose. If you can get on that has more than one color, it's better. Monochromatic light doesn't give people good depth perception. Avoid as much as possible bright white strobes facing rearward. All you're going to do is blind the people you are trying not to get hit by.

> Screwdriver set with misc bits

Like others have said, this won't be super useful for your car, but for various other tasks it can be a huge time/ money/ aggravation saver to just have basic tools for random things. Ever tried to get a hose clamp off with just your fingers? You just have to remember to put those tools back in the kit. You don't need Snap Off for this as they likely won't get used that much. Don't get the cheapest ones at Harbor Freight either. Get the " pittburgh professional" ones.

> Socket set?

You can get the set if you want to, but at a minimum get the socket that fits your lugs. Get the drive size that fits the breaker bar you got from above (likely 1/2"). When I do this for work I had a cordless impact driver which was awesome, but a breaker bar doesn't require you to remember to charge batteries, and I haven't found anyone that just wasn't strong enough to use one. A breaker bar is like $15. Cordless impact driver powerful enough is like $250+.

>Glass Breaker/ Hammer

Honestly, you'd be better off with a spring loaded center punch. You have to have room to swing the hammer, and some people (elderly, children) just don't have the strength to hit the window hard enough. With the center punch, you just touch it to the glass and push until it clicks. Many cops and firefighters use these as a means to get you out. If you go this route, have a seat belt cutter, pocket knife, something...

>Fire Extinguisher

It's better if you mount this somewhere where it wont get buried. My favorite place is honestly the trunk lid or right in front of the taillight area in a car, under one of the seats for a SUV or truck (if you can easily flip it up). Imagine yourself suddenly panicking and thinking holy goddamn s**t my car is on fire, and scrambling to get to your extinguisher. Put it somewhere you can scramble to easy. If it takes longer than 10 seconds, its not accessible enough.

• Basic first aid kit. useful for everything. Make sure if you use it, restock it.
  
  > A little portable air compressor
  
  can really help if you get a flat and have a flat spare. Not necessary but sure is nice. You can use it for other things too (blowing up sports balls air mattresses etc...). They usually take FOREVER to fill a tire, but if you're stuck anyway...
  
  >Roll of duct tape (because obviously).
  
  I've used it to tape up bumpers after an accident so they can at least get off the road, to secure wiring, to a whole number of other things.
  
  >Spare fluids.
  
  Maybe. Gallon of coolant or distilled water at least. quart of oil, etc... This also depends on where you normally drive. If you never leave the city and a parts store is usually a couple blocks away then you don't have to bother. If you live outside the city and it would take you the entire afternoon to walk the next 15 miles to the store...well, plan accordingly.
  
  
  > Tire pressure gauge.
  
  To check main and spare tires. Don't trust the ones on the gas station pump (they get slammed around and scraped on the ground). I've seen them as inaccurate as 15 - 20 p.s.i. off.
  
  > Jumper cables.
  
  Better yet, your own jump pack.. Jumper cables are only useful if someone else is there to rescue you.
  
  > A tow strap
  
  is kinda nice, but if you're stuck and there's nobody else around it won't help you (unless you have a winch/ come-along). Nothing wrong with having one handy in case someone comes along though.
  
  
  > Tire chains.
  
  Don't know where you live but in CO there is actually a new (ish) chain law for passenger vehicles. When it's in effect you are supposed to have chains (or alternative traction device) in place. It's not just for truckers anymore. I take them out in the summer.
  
  > A shaker siphon
  
  Makes transferring fuel way way way way way less infuriating than dealing with the stupid friggin gas cans you have to buy nowadays. All the silly safeties and valves, it's like playing goddamn BopIt. They also work for coolant and washer fluid too, not that you would be dumping gallons of washer fluid... How to use it I don't carry a fuel container in my truck with me, but FYI it's illegal (in the US at least) to transport fuel in anything other than an approved fuel container. I doubt you'll get in trouble, just something to consider.

Wheel weights can really just go anywhere on the wheel there's a flat enough spot to stick it to, but I try to get it as close to the center as possible. I use stick-on weights, but the guy who I had doing my tires before always used the clamp-on weights. Both seem just fine.

You throw the wheel with tire onto the balancer and the heavy spot will orient itself downward. Add the weights to the light end that is upward. I use a piece of electrical tape to hold weights on temporarily and add them until it's balanced enough that the wheel wont spin on its own. It's not as awesome as those big expensive machines that tell you where to put the weights, but I've personally never had issues. Just takes patience and forethought.

Here are the tool I use:

Rim savers These work very well, but I think if you have spoons that aren't flat and wide like the motion pros it can break the plastic it's made from. Mixed reviews. Some recommend three, but they're sold in pairs. I went ahead and got two sets in case I broke one somehow.

Wheel balancer I had heard horror stories about the cheaper end balancers and figured I'd just do it right the first time and went ahead and got this thing. Very solid piece of equipment.

Two smaller spoons - These work great I think. I have a slight bias toward motion pro since, in my experience, they make good stuff.

Large spoon - It's useful for the last part of the tire if you can't manage it with a shorter spoon. More leverage. Not entirely necessary, but three total spoons is ideal.

Air compressor - To set a bead you need one with a high enough PSI, but this was bought with the air tools in mind. I'm pretty sure it would be overkill for just mounting tires.

Bead breaker - There is a motorcycle specific one that I saw, but it seemed like it was designed for scooter wheels that are much smaller. I saw it in action at a friends house and it works fine as well.

There are competing brands and vendors for everything you can think of, so shop around for whatever you decide on doing. There's a good chance there's a better deal out there on something. I just use amazon for reference.

Height should be your biggest concern.

I'm 5'11", with kinda short legs, too. I couldn't ride this bike if it were any higher. You can get lowering links, and a different seat, and you should be OK - right about where I'm at, but it may never be "like a glove" comfortable.

It will totally get the city job done. Little box on the back, and you're good to go. When they hit potholes, and nearly lose it, you'll float over like nothing. Mine is a daily commuter and a weekend warrior. There is nothing this bike won't do "pretty ok".

Riding is riding. Unless you're trying to keep up with people doing 80+, you'll be just fine. The bike is as much fun as any other bike on the street at <60mph. I've ridden with groups of guys on harleys, groups of older guys on Can-Am and Goldwing trikes, adventure bike groups, groups of kids on dirtbikes, families on atvs, and in giant packs of streetbikes on weekend evenings.

Travelling far distance ... don't do it unless you're comfortable on a bike already. Riding for hours on end can play tricks with your concentration and whatnot. If you must, and you're not that experienced, plan on a 15-20 minute break for every hour riding. Just do it.

Here's some shit that I learned the hard way:

Change the oil/filters before you go, and check the plug. Check your air filter after 1000 miles of highway/trail. Plan your trip to avoid interstate. You will be much more relaxed on smaller highways, and you won't have as many trucks and their drafts to contend with. Calculate your gas mileage at every fillup. Little problems can show up as dropping mileage before they become big problems. Put some flat stop in your tubes. Give the tires a push check before starting every time. Bring rain riding gear, and hope you don't need it. Get a throttle lock. Either a good one or a cheap one. The KLR will vibrate your hands numb, you will need to get your hand off the bars for a bit. Wear a camelback water bag. A good GPS/phone mount that offers visibility without having to look away from the road is really nice when going through unfamiliar towns. Make sure you have a usb charger if you don't have a 12v socket. for your gps/phone on the bike. Carry extra cheap eye protection. One of those ATV seat pads can help if you get a sore ass easily. Don't beeline it to your destination - make a point to include a side-trip up a mountain or something as often as you can.

I think you'll end up liking the bike, and you'll end up going on that "adventure" ride sooner than you think :)

Lanesplitting is as easy as you want it to be, with no panniers. It starts to get hairy above 60, because after that the KLR just doesn't have the instant go that you need to zip through smaller spaces. So at those speeds, you're more like a cruiser bike. But at city speeds, once you've been in the saddle a few months, it feels really small in traffic.

Rain gear

Hydrate and trail mix

A throttle lock

https://www.amazon.com/Go-Cruise-Motorcycle-Throttle-Control/dp/B00TIEATVY/ref=sr_1_14?keywords=motorcycle+cruise+control&qid=1566491759&s=gateway&sr=8-14

Go around your bike and look at every fastener. Get the tool that is required and put it in your tool bag

A dry sack

https://www.amazon.com/Earth-Pak-Waterproof-Dry-Bag/dp/B01GZCUDC6/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?keywords=dry+sack&qid=1566491799&s=gateway&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUExWEdHN1JXMjc3S1NUJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwMDY4ODExMjFEUTQxSEFXUU5OQyZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwMjE1MTQwMTFaNUFWOVBPVUs2RSZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX2F0ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=

​

Attach it with Rok Straps

https://www.amazon.com/ROK-Straps-ROK-10050-Black-Reflective/dp/B00JAKIEAY/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=rok+straps&qid=1566491879&s=gateway&sr=8-3

A tire patch kit. Won't help if your tire is flat, an electric pump is nice, but room is limited for you. Hand pump?

https://www.amazon.com/Slime-1034-T-Handle-Tire-Plug/dp/B000ET525K/ref=sr_1_7?keywords=tire+plug+kit&qid=1566492644&s=gateway&sr=8-7

https://www.myrouteapp.com/routelab is a good way to lay out routes and download to a motorcycle specific GPS. You may not need this. When we do trips, I lay out the route and share the folder with friends and they can download from this site and upload to their GPS. Did I mention you may not need this.

Don't go full digital on anything. Maps etc. Buy an atlas, cut out the states you're going through and highlight your planned path. Now put states that are near each other on opposite sides (Kansas on one side, Missouri on the other side) and go to OfficeMax and laminate it. Make them a size that will fit in your tank bag map pouch.

There is no such thing as too much gas. There is such a a thing as too little. These don't suck.

https://www.amazon.com/Lixada-Outdoor-Camping-Kerosene-Alcohol/dp/B0116HTH18/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?keywords=gas+bottle&qid=1566492147&s=gateway&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEyUTdCWU8yVU9JU1hWJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwMTIwNjQ5MlVRUEdBRjBGMDFEUCZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwOTQ2MDA3MVVQNjFHVk9UWDJXQyZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX2F0ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=

Motrin on the regular

Alternate foot position! Highway pegs are great.

Start with brand new tires. Hopefully they will last the entire trip, because you're looking at about 4k or more miles.

Battery Brick

https://www.amazon.com/20000mAH-Portable-Comkes-External-Smartphone/dp/B07F2YPBD2/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=battery+brick&qid=1566492328&s=gateway&sr=8-5

​

This is or something like it for the various stuff you may need to charge at night in the motel room.

https://www.amazon.com/Anker-Charger-Foldable-PowerPort-Samsung/dp/B00VH8G1SY/ref=sr_1_8?keywords=USB+charger+multiport&qid=1566492374&s=gateway&sr=8-8

​

Plan your stops and check out the reviews of the motels before hand. When I roll into a town, I pull over (when I have cell signal) and open Google Maps and type "motels in town X" and start looking at prices and reading reviews.

Before you pay, ask the rate and ask to see a room. If it's a dump, you don't have to get your money back. Ask me how I learned this was a good way to go.

Get an early start. Don't ride past dark. You better be riding in the warm, I assume you don't have heated gear. Colorado is cold at altitude, especially after dark, even in the summer.

Get a balaclava.

Ear plugs!!!!

You can do poor man's tubeless. It's the way I did it for a year or so.

What you will need:

Scissors

A new tire with thick sidewalls if possible

A 24" tube with a schrader valve (for a 26" bike you would use a 20" tube)

Slime tubeless sealant (I have found this to be better than Stans and it does not dry out as fast)

A beer or two (what ever you like to drink)

Access to an air compressor

*A bucket of soapy water

Muscle the 24" tube around your wheel and get the valve in like it would be on a regular tire. Pump a VERY SMALL AMOUNT of air into it and then cut in the center of the tire all they way around so it spreads pretty evenly across the rim. There will be a TON off excess tire hanging over the rim, we will get there though. mount one side of you tire on the wheel just like you would if you were swapping tires. Make sure none of the cut tube folds back in underneath the tire when you mount it. Now try to muscle on the other side of the tire. It's going to be either super difficult or super easy. My tires took the strength of the God's and two beers to get it on. Again make sure the excess tube is stick out all around both sides of the tire and didnt get flipped inside the tire or anything. Now you should have what looks like a tire mounted on the wheel with a bunch skin hanging out on both sides. Next remove the valve core from the and put what ever the recommended amount of Slime is in the tire. may be best to have the valve at the 8 o'clock position so the slime will run the to bottom of the tire. Put the valve core back in. Once that is done get a rag and wipe the tire sidewalls and the excess rubber from the tube down with soapy water (I used dish soap). This will help create the seal between the tube and the tire. Dont be afraid to get it pretty wet. Then take the wheel and shake it back and forth while rotating to coat the inside of the tire with the slime. Now hook that beast up to a compressor and blast the air into it. There will be some loud snapping sounds and it may take a few times, but it should eventually seal. After you get some air in there shake the tire and rotate again. Maybe top off the air if you havent. You should have cracked open that first beer by now too. Possibly even finished it. Now that the tire is mounted and full of air/sealant crack open beer number two and wait for the tire to dry from the soapy water. After it's dry take the scissors and cut as much of the excess tube that is dangling off as you can. Doesnt need to be perfect, but also do get too close to the rim/tire bead as if could possibly cause the tube to slip into the tire and break your sea. I left about a centimeter of excess tube all the way around just to play it safe. Now you have poor man's tubeless and two less beers! Hooray!

I apologize in advance for this long post. None of these are "must gets", but they are what I got for my 2016 Premium forester. I'm posting this for my own future reference as well as to help some people who are wondering what accessories might be good for their new forester. I highly recommend ordering from Jackie from Annapolis Subaru @ 443-837-1422 as she can get you some good prices on the subaru accessories as well as WeatherTech products! I saved on WeatherTech shipping costs (~$20) by ordering through Jackie and the warranty is the same as if I had bought them through their website.

Please note that some of these accessory links are for my specific car year, model and configuration. I have a 2016 Premium forester without eyesight (affects the Covercraft/heatshield sunshade - they also have eyesight compatible sunshades!).

Also, I personally didn't get my windows tinted, but I think that is something that you should seriously consider doing :)

Speaker kit

Tweeter kit


WeatherTech DigitalFit floorliner (1st & 2nd row)


WeatherTech cargo/trunk liner (without bumper protector)

Weather Tech TechCare floorliner and floormat Cleaner/Protector Kit

Gorilla mud flaps

Covercraft's UVS100 sunscreen - use promo code FREESHIP

Exterior Auto Dimming Mirror w/ Approach Lighting

Luggage Compartment Cover (manual rear gate)

Rear bumper cover

Auto-Dimming Mirror with Compass and HomeLink

Rear Seat Back Protector

Two Home Depot 5 gallon homer bucket

Heatshield sunshade (driver/passenger, second row, rear windshield, sunroof) - note that their website only shows only one side window (driver/passenger), you need to call in to ask them to add the second row side window ones - on my invoice it says part #1425S-A and #1425S-B

Antigravity Batteries AG-XP-10 Multi-Function Power Supply and Jump Starter (check eBay to see if priced cheaper)

Viair 77P Portable Compressor Kit (check eBay to see if priced cheaper)

Amazon stuff:

EZ Pass Holder for VA Flex

Aux cable

Stickershield (parking stickers, etc)

Dropstop seat gap filler (driver/passenger side)

Door panel removal kit (for speaker kit install)

Two grit guards

Microfiber Drying towel

Microfiber cloths (3 pack)

Car wash shampoo

Wheel brush

Resqme (window breaker/seatbelt cutter)

Wheel cleaner

Microfiber wash mitt

Reindeer costume for Christmas

Headrest coat hanger

Road reflective triangles

Duct tape

Odor eliminator

Tire air pressure gauge

OBDII Scanner (Bluetooth)

First aid kit

Okay so here is the part thats included

Its kinda pricey. Its a pretty beefy compressor and it has a replaceable fix-a-flat style sealant canister.

Now you can get a beefier, similarly sized compressor for less money, like this one but thats going to actually be more than you need. Ive seen a few complaints from that brand that if you are over ~80 psi they will pop the fuse in your car, rather than the one in the compressor (which can take a pretty hefty amperage.)

Cheaper still, something like what I was using before I bought my volt would be a small hand held affair This isnt the exact model I had but its similar, and a comparable price. This is going to be slow to inflate your tire, but the benefit is it takes up virtually no space at all.

This is actually the sort of thing I would recommend. Its medium sized, reasonably powerful but not a monster, and it has a built in flashlight (which is SO helpful.)

A decent compressor can be got from walmart for $20, but if you want to spend more there are a ton of good options of all shapes and sizes and at any price point you can imagine.

Last but not least, if you dont get the GM one, you should include a can of fix-a-flat in any car, whether you have a spare or not.

PS a good alternative to the GM one might be the fix-a-flat brand compressor which also has a canister, and is a good price.

Any multi tool from CRANKBROTHERS or Topeak will be good. For the love of GOD don't buy a cheap multi tool for your friend. Cheap tools are made poorly with low quality metals that will end up stripping your friends components. I don't care how well that POS WOTOW tool is reviewed, the positive reviews never used it. The WOTOW tool stripped more than one of my bolts before I bought an Alien II. Your friend will want to buy some high quality tools for his home use later though. $15 would only buy a few quality home tools.

​

If your friend uses tubes you could get a REMA patch kit for him. If your friend is tubeless you could get him a plug kit. I've never had a tubeless tire so I've no idea what plug kits are good/bad.

​

That you're camping in Australia reminded me of this recent post in which a blogger recommends this biker-focused swag tent. Seems to be a fair deal and while I have no experience with it the blogger reckons it's a good bit of kit as you Aussies might say ;-). Most likely you won't be borrowing your parent's tent. The car-camping type tents don't really get along well with motocamping. Sleeping bags and maybe the air mattress or sleeping pad are more likely, or a bit of cooking equipment. I'll throw out some random recommendations based on stuff I like and let you decide how it fits into your $500 =).

I find backpacking equipment seems to parallel motocamping equipment in many respects. You aren't as concerned about weight on the motorcycle, but you do need compact and reliable. You may want to consider a backpacker's inflatable sleeping pad, [this is the one I have] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ANRW7DI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1). It's no mattress but it insulates you from the ground which helps keep heat in, and it provides a bit of cushion too. It will fit inside the swag, a hammock, or any compact backpacking tent, and it packs up small. I have this tent which legitimately sleeps two as long as you don't mind being close (tested with my girlfriend) and should fit a twin sized inflatable mattress which would be substantially more comfortable than the camping pad I linked above. To make an addition to your luggage, I can't recommend a tank bag enough. I have this tank bag which is truly a bargain and should fit any motorcycle.

I would also check out Aerostich's Camping Section for some ideas. Being that you're in Australia I'm not sure if you want to buy directly from them unless you can't find an item anywhere but their website, but there are tons of ideas you can get from their store that you might not find other places.

Now I'll just list off several items I can think of that I like to pack for motocamping (most are small and multi-functional items, and a few specific get-my-ass-out-of-a-jam things):

Tire plug kit, some way to put air back in the tire (compact air compressor, CO2 cartridges, bicycle pump, etc), several feet of 550 cord (AKA paracord), extra bungee cords, extra cargo net, zip ties, electrician's tape, heavy-duty trash bags (maybe 3 or 5), a small supplement to my bike's OEM tool kit & a multitool, a first aid kit that includes bug bite relief (and anything else you might want specific to the area you're traveling), a sam splint & triangle bandage, a couple ways to start a fire (waterproof matches stored in a watertight container & a cigarette lighter usually), one or two of those mylar emergency blankets, a little mild dish soap.

You might not feel the need to carry all that on a 3 day trip but a lot of it is small, cheap, and multi-funcitonal. Trash bags are to keep trash under control at camp and emergency waterproofing for gear/people, so you want the thick ones.

I've answered various questions about this system and the install several times in the last two months. Since it's getting asked again I'm going to leave the info here for all to see :)


I installed this in my car 3 months ago. The soundbox can be had for right around $250.00 shipped from http://www.oempartsource.com/oe-volkswagen/000051419.

IMO, don't pay anyone. The install is DIY and very straightforward. If you have use of your hands and some trim tools, you can do this install in under an hour with ease, if I had to do it again, I could probably get it done in under 30 minutes. If you're located in the SF Bay Area I can even help you. I highly doubt the cable run would be "neater" if the dealership did it, they'll rush through it, and the cable can really only go one place nicely anyhow. Zip ties are included in the Helix box so you can secure it. I used a few extra that I had.

I followed this DIY (there are two parts):
https://www.youtube.com/watch?annotation_id=annotation_1401645911&feature=iv&src_vid=mtvFvXa2AaY&v=6dKJtnaV9CU

The only specialty tools you need are:
Terminal removal tool (I'm told you can sub in a paperclip for this - I imagine if it's the right size it will work fine): https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007ZOMMT6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

and radio removal tools (I'm told you can make your own with old gift cards): https://www.amazon.com/Porsche-Volkswagen-Mercedes-Radio-Removal/dp/B007WUQUU0/ref=sr_1_8?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1491250947&sr=1-8&keywords=vw+radio+removal+tool

When I installed, I elected to ditch my spare instead of placing it on top of the soundbox (I did this initially but decided against it after the first month for space reasons - I have a kid) and I carry one of these in the trunk now: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001DZFZPG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Lastly, once installed you will want to program the Sound Box DSP for use with your car. The product description states that the SoundBox unit is pre-programmed for the Golf/GTI. Trust me, it isn't (this is well documented on the GolfMK7 forums and elsewhere). So you want to rent the dongle for $35 here: http://www.golfmk7.com/forums/showthread.php?t=19829 or go ask your local dealer if they'd do the programming for you at no charge. It literally takes under 2 minutes. Do not let them rape you at the dealer to program it.

Having done full systems with all new speaker wiring, component speakers, amp, DSP, and subs in cars when I was younger, I would say that at $250 the value on this thing is nothing short of amazing. It sounds pretty great. I also did sound deadening with SoundSkins Pro throughout the car.

I've created a short list of everything I have, linked items are the ones that I recommend.

Things for the road

Frame/ Mini pump

Saddle Bag

Patch Kit

Tire Boot (You can make your own for cheap, but these are still good)

Tire levers (See Multi-Tool, Levers Included)

Multi Tool (Super-Recommend)

Bike Lights

Spare Tubes (Optional for the road)

Bottles of choice

Sunglasses of choice

Gloves of choice (Important! For preventing impossible-to-heal palm scrapes)

Cycling compter

U Lock (no cable locks! they're garbage) <<I Have 3 of these, but then again, I live in Oakland.

Things for home

Floor pump

Tools (Pretty much covered by Multi-Tool, but there's things you may need like cassette tool, chain whip, etc)

Wet and Dry chain lube

Clothing (Optional, I only have the shoes and windbreaker)

Hi-Vis Jacket

Clipless shoes, I recommend SPD for easier walking

Jersey

Padded Shorts, or Bib shorts

Windbreaker

Leg Warmers

Most importantly, you need knowledge of cycling. Look up videos on youtube about safe riding on the road, traffic laws, hand signals, how to repair your bike on the road and at home, how to take a fall, and as much theory that you can)

EDIT: Do not let me trick you into thinking that a multi-tool is a replacement for the big-boy tools that are available on the market. Some of those tools are actually worth the investment. However, be that as it may, do your research first, because there's some overpriced crap out there ^^^Park ^^^Tools.

There are two ways to fix a puncture: plug or patch. A patch is generally done at a shop and involves removing the tire from the wheel, applying a patch to the inside of the tire, and remounting the tire. This is definitely the strongest fix.

Since this is the DIY subreddit, you're probably interested in the second method, which is the plug.

I have plugged many tires myself, and I've never had one fail, even after years and thousands of miles.

1. Get a kit like this. They're sold all over- Walmart, auto parts stores, etc. Make sure you get the kit that includes a tube of rubber cement. The kits all have a reaming tool, a plug tool, and a number of plugs. The plugs are usually sealed in plastic and look like strips of rubber.
   
2. Jack the car up and remove the leaking tire. In a pinch you can install a plug while the tire is still on the car, but the tire still needs to be up in the air. Note that you should NEVER crawl under a car that is only supported with a jack, so only do this if you can reach the puncture without getting underneath the car.
   
3. Using pliers or whatever, remove the screw that is stuck in the tire.
   
4. Use the reaming tool from the kit to rough up the hole left by the screw. Just do a couple of push/pull strokes with the tool to round out the puncture. This ensures the plug will seal correctly.
   
5. Take one of the plug strips and thread it into the plug tool, like you're threading a needle. Make sure there is equal amount of plug on either side.
   
6. Coat the plug with some rubber cement.
   
7. This is the only tricky part. You want to push the end of the plug tool into the puncture until only about 1/4" of plug material is sticking out, then quickly remove the plug tool. The plug will remain in the hole, and your puncture is fixed. Just go slow, and don't push the plug all the way in or you'll lose it inside the tire.
   
   It's super easy to do and a great DIY skill to have. Recently my friend was stuck with a flat tire, and the lug nuts were torqued on so tight we couldn't get the tire off to put on the spare. Since I had my plug kit and 12V air compressor, I plugged the leak with the tire on, filled the tire back up, and he was on his way 10 minutes later.
   
   Hope this helps.
   

Thanks for the post. As someone who is a new homeowner in FL and lived here through Matthew and Irma but not through mass devastation, this helps me understand what that looks like.

Your comments about tire repair struck me. I am planning on ordering this well-reviewed plugger. What air pump do you have?

In regards to cleanliness I keep some body wipes too, but for helping larger amounts of people I definitely see the value of the shower + soap.

For the gas can, check out this one - much safer than the plastic cans and I am very happy with the flexibility of the nozzle. I'll likely get a long funnel for it too, just in case.

Should you? Maybe. Would I? No. But I would add some Ride On Sealant.

The only reason I can see to actually change out the tubes is to prevent a catastrophic flat. The sealant mitigates that for the most part. I use it in my HD tubes, but I wouldn't bother changing out a perfectly good tube, but if you decide you want to, I'd still use the sealant (it also balances your tire).

Have fun, ride safe!

I've done my rubber on my KLR. I have tubes but the process is (I'm guessing) pretty much the same:

1. Lift bike off ground. I have a stand to pick up the entire thing but you can do just one tire at a time. We'll do the front.
   
2. Remove the front axle. Loosen the axle nut and then the pinch bolts. Don't remove the axle nut. Lightly tap the axle nut to slide the axle out the other side. Keep backing the nut off and tapping until you can't back the nut out anymore. Remove the nut and pull the axle, supporting the tire. Inspect axle for wear and place on some shop rags. Remove speedometer cable when removing front tire. DO NOT SQUEEZE THE BRAKES WITH THE TIRE REMOVED. This will cause you problems trying to open your brake calipers back up to get the rotor in again.
   
3. Change your tire. Watch this video for instructions: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dAKIuSjPXxA
   
4. Put your front wheel back on, lube your axle.
   
5. Take the back wheel off in a similar fashion. Change the rubber in the same way.
   
6. Adjust your chain, instructions here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Tqu7WGELU5s
   
   There are some tools to help you:
   
   

• Tire spoons (at least 2)
  
• Valve stem remover
  
• Rim guards
  
• Rim weights
  
• Chain alignment guide
  
  I took a few hours to do mine as it was my first time, but with practice you could probably get it down to less than an hour. I also took the opportunity to clean and lube my chain. I cleaned it with WD40 and dried it off before using chain wax to lubricate. It helps if the chain is a bit warmed up for this.

I cannot recommend the Rocket Ratchet enough for all-around, single tool efficiency. It's gotten to the point where I don't actually use the tools in my toolbox even when I'm at home. I just use the ratchet and it's way better. Any multi-tool with a chain-breaker will work, I've just had a really good time with that one.

After that a set of Pedro's. For my money, they're the best levers around. Great durability, can spoke-lock from both sides, and I've never ripped a tube with them, even on bullshit 23 tires.

After that basic patch kits, they'll use them all the time until they throw their hands in the air five years from now and scream "FINE I'LL GO TUBELESS."

Those are kind of the basics, and will allow them to work 90% of the stuff on their bike. The other 10% becomes more expensive and more specialized.

EDIT: oh, and a spoke wrench is the other cheap and highly useful item to have around.

First of all, I am glad you asked for advice, this is what this community is for, and some are just being friendly by making a little fun. It's really cool that you are planning this out and looking way in advance. I am also a 48 owner so I know what its like to have fuel anxiety. You are going to need layers, water, power bars and basic bike stuff . I have ridden in Arizona in the winter, and even though the sun is shining, 50's is very cold once you factor in the wind from motorcycle riding.

• Layers, go get some type of wool underlayer, it stays warm when wet and also cools you off when sweaty. Seriously, get wool.
  
  
  
• Water, you need more water. Here is why. That time of year you have a chance of low humidity which means you need more water. I know you are not going to die if you don't drink enough water for one day, but you can get mood swings, joint aches, lack of mental acuity, all which can be dangerous on a bike.
  Power bars and trail mix are fine for quick energy and keeping the belly from grumbling.
  
  
• For the bike you need a few things. Tire repair, fuel and storage. For tire repair , you need a way to plug it,and a way to inflate it. I carry this and a couple of c02 cartridges to get me out of a tight spot. This guy does a great video.
  
  Now you need fuel reserves, I carry a larosa bag with a small can and add a bigger cans depending on how nervous I am about fuel consumption. I have been stuck on the side of the road on highway 10, 40 miles west of blythe, and it sucks. Do not store these on the wive's backpack. Get some cheap fuel bottle holders
  
  
  So I would do two things from here until November.
  Find a way to get your bike ready to be more of a pack mule. And get your wife more seat time, and maybe a gel pad?
  You can get cheap bags at revzilla
  
  Best of luck and post some pictures!

I am not recommending anyone plug a motorcycle tire, but here is what I did when I found a small screw in the center of the rear tire of my cbr250r.

• http://i.imgur.com/dxPH4rj.jpg
  
• http://i.imgur.com/Klrcwhj.jpg
  
• http://i.imgur.com/8AkvKDF.jpg
  
  It is plug patch that you install from the inside and pull outward seating the patch to the inside of the tire. The first picture is what it looks like from the inside. I think this is the only type of repair I would do on a motorcycle tire and I still consider it a temporary fix.
  
  I rode on this for about 2 weeks while I waited for a replacement tire to arrive. It never lost air or gave me any hint of trouble but in the end I decided it wasn't worth the risk to save a few bucks on a new tire. I was more curious to see if it could be done.
  
  I now keep a Stop & Go tire plug kit with the bike for emergency road side plugging, seems like the best design. I've tried it on a junk tire to see how it worked from the inside and looks like a solid design but I have yet to use it on an actual road use tire.
  
  http://www.amazon.com/Stop-Go-International-Plugger-Tubeless/dp/B0006NE3KE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1373853537&sr=8-1&keywords=stop+n+go+tire+plugger
  

Costco will also repair a flat tire that was purchased from Costco, but you gotta deal with the super long Costco tire wait.

I guess the real LPT is if you get a flat tire, call the place you bought the tire from and they'll probably fix it for free.

In the alternative, learn to use a tire repair kit, like this.

I've gone through a few of them. This is what's on there now. That is just barely big enough for 2 700x23 tubes and 2 co2 containers. Into the sides I tuck tire levers, the co2 inflator and the 2 sizes of allen key my bike has most places.

I used to go out with only 1 tube, but then I got a flat 30 miles from my house and didn't like the feeling of not having a tube on my way home. So now I carry 2.

Before that I had this bag, which is a bit bigger. I had a larger and less space-efficient set of allen keys in that, and it also fit a tire bead jack. That last one I still carry with me in a pocket - my tires are a very tight fit, and if it's at all cold outside then it's just a lot easier to change flats with that thing than with my hands. A lot of LBS mechanics will say "oh, just use your hands!" but I type all day, so my finger strength isn't that good.

I am not knowledgeable, i just dealt with it couple of times with tires nails.

Sidewall damage(nail in the sidewall of the tire), must replace for safety to avoid blowout when you hit a bump. Sidewall material are thinner because it flexes.


There are tire plug kit (https://www.amazon.com/Tooluxe-50002L-Universal-Punctures-Motorcycles/dp/B002I52RG0/ref=sr_1_6?keywords=tire+plug&qid=1572574280&refinements=p_72%3A2661618011&rnid=2661617011&sr=8-6) , but it requires massive force to shove the plug in and pull it out while leaving plug attached (think of it plug filling the hole to seal the ). This is not really recommended and not exactly safe imo. You are better off bringing to tire shop and tell them to patch it completely (beware some will just plug it because is easier for them, always ask for patch plug combo. Patch plug look like this https://www.amazon.com/Hanperal-24Pcs-Rubber-Repair-Patch/dp/B01NADRACD). Requires to remove the tire off the rim and shave the inside tread to make a better seal.

Weird. Are you using the glue+ patch ones? The glue less patches don't work too well.

I know that an anecdote doesn't really mean anything, but my patches have never given me problems. I have one tube that has 4 or 5 patches on it and it works fine. As long as it is a hole or small tear, and not on the valve, I slap another patch on and keep riding.

This
Is the exact kit I use. Check a bike shop near you, I got mine for $3. If you are nice to them, they might even show you how to do it yourself. Aside from that, maybe hit up YouTube or reddit or the rest of the Internet for tips.

Happy patching!

I carry a spare tube, but I also carry these: https://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Innovations-G2650-Tubeless-Repair/dp/B000P1RP48

If I am going pretty light and not going crazy far, I just carry those and don't carry a tube. They are so fast to use and not even close to as messy as putting a tube in. You don't have you to take off your tire at all and they are very cheap. When you use them, just make sure you get both holes plugged if there are two (there usually are, one on the top and one near the bead).

I have been running tubeless for a number of years now. Last year I went through about 8 rear tires - each with multiple pinch flats - and I was running (more than) enough pressure. This happened to basically all the tires I tried that weren't DH tires (Exo casings, Schwalbe enduro casings, E13 TRS casing) . For some reason the tire I have on there now has been doing pretty well, which is a Minion DHR2w 2.4.

My point in say all of that is this - carry something with you (carry a tube or at least some tire plugs).

If you're running tubeless you probably should be running sealant in your tires. Fat tires are pretty thin skinned and puncture easily in my experience. Stans, Orange, Slime are all popular brands.

If you get a hole that won't seal there are plug kits like this that can be installed from the outside, or patches like these that install on the inside.

I grabbed this $10 digital off amazon a while back. I liked it and ended up buying another.

It's fast and convenient and has a sometimes-handy bit of lighting. How accurate is it? Not 100% sure - I don't have anything that I trust to be a benchmark. But it agrees up with the TPMS on my car and it's pretty close to the analog gauge on my compressor, so in my experience plenty accurate enough for an application where +/- 5% accuracy isn't going to bother me much.

Short of something obvious like around new construction where nails and screws falling off truck bumpers will be more common it's pretty much just random chance. If it keeps happening it might be worth buying yourself a tire plug kit like this and an inflator so you can fix it yourself. In the mean time call around and see if you can find a local tire shop that patches tires for free.

I've had these tires before, and they are quite a pain due to geting that tight wire bead over the lip of the rim. I have had at least minor success with either leaving stubborn tires in the sunlight or using a blow-dryer to heat up the rubber to get it to slightly expand and make it easier to convince.

I've also used the Kool-Stop tire jack to great success.

I wouldn't use the levers as a way to continue getting the tire on by this point, because it'll likely pinch-flat the tube.

If you think it's mostly through the tread I would just complete the puncture and use a plug kit to patch http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000ET525K/ref=s9_top_hm_awbw_b13u23_g263_i1?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=mobile-hybrid-11&pf_rd_r=0SA3YB452VVP3N16PZ0Y&pf_rd_t=30901&pf_rd_p=659a304f-fb85-5f26-beb6-828a8e1c046a&pf_rd_i=15706711


I know a lot of folks will recommend a tire patch (as opposed to the plug) but are cheap and I've found them to be really effective. Very easy diy.

Tire plugs and an air compressor. This is what I carry for plugs. It's probably overkill, but it works great. This is the air compressor I use. You can find it for cheaper, but it keeps up with $200+ compressors and there are a ton of mods you can do to improve them if you want.

Yes, it can for sure. What I do is keep a good tire pressure gauge to double check my TPMS. The best gauge I found to verify this way is the JACO Elite gauge. The good thing about this gauge is that if you do overinflate your tires, it has a pressure release valve to decrease.

Since the model 3 doesn't have a spare, I highly recommend one of those portable compressors with the goo that can patch up leaks super easily. They're like $30.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001DZFZPG/ref=oh_aui_i_d_old_o0_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I usually stop around 3-4:00 PM and figure out where I want to stop that night, then call ahead if I'm getting a hotel room and make a reservation somewhere. You can also read-up on camping on BLM or NFS lands, either campgrounds or remote. State parks also may have campgrounds.

I carry a tire plug kit. This will save you massive amounts of time if you get a flat in a remote area. Watch a few youtube videos if you've never used one and you should be fine.

I also carry a small 12v cigarette-lighter-powered air compressor for reinflating the tire, and a tire pressure gauge because I don't trust the ones on the cheap pumps.

If you are going to travel through remote areas in the west always carry some food and water.

Buy one of those sponges with the nylon netting on the outside or a loofah or one of these. You'll probably want to clean the windshield of dead bugs more often than just when you get gas. Bring a jug of water to assist. Carry an extra jug of wiper fluid.

Research the historical day/night temperatures if you will be traveling in the inter-mountain west. It can actually get quite cold at night if you're camping. Pack appropriate clothing. Monsoon season in the desert southwest can go to early October. Assume you might get rained-on a bit.

Check state DOT websites for conditions ahead at high mountain passes in the Rockies and the Sierras. Some of them start closing due to snow by mid-September.

If you are going to more than two or three national parks buy the annual pass for $80 at the first park you go to. It will pay for itself several times over.

IMHO carrying a bunch of spare parts or tools is overkill but a spare headlamp bulb and a package of assorted zip ties aren't a bad investment. Make sure your brakes are in good condition before you leave if you are driving in mountain areas.

I carry a paper road atlas as I find it useful for longer-distance planning than zooming in/out on an ipad or phone. You can get Rand McNally Road atlasses near the checkouts at a lot of Walmarts.

You'll find that the octane levels of gasoline sold at high altitudes is a few points lower than at sea level. Using 85 octane in a car that usually uses 87 is fine, etc.. Pay attention to the labeling on the pumps elsewhere. At certain places in the Midwest gas stations sell high-ethanol mixes that are inappropriate for non flex-fuel cars. They will still sell the regular stuff, just pay attention to the labels.

Know that this sign means that you can come upon cows standing in the road at any time. Avoid driving these roads at night, or at least keep the speed down and be prepared.

In my area, at least, none of the shops will patch a tire. Fix it yourself.

Get yourself one of these. I've had the best luck with this kind of patch kit.
http://www.amazon.com/Slime-1034-A-Tire-Plug-Kit/dp/B000ET525K

Pull the screw out, then shove the reamer into the hole to open it up a bit. Rough it up a bit.

Take one of the gummi worms, and put it through the hole in the plug insertion tool. Make sure it is centered. Put some rubber cement on it. RAM it in to the hole, making sure that you don't push the gummi worm all the way through. Pull the tool out. The worm should stay there.
Put 10 psi of air in the tire and let it sit for a bit. Trim the gummi worm down so that the bits that stick out are below the tread. After an hour or so, fill the tire. Check for leaks and repeat if necessary.

Edit: the patch kit doesn't have to be motorcycle specific. I bought a truck tire patch kit at the local Shuck's.

I've been using a cheap digital one but interested to see what other responses you get. I love this little thing

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0037V0EW8/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I broke my windshield.

I was filling the tires and I had this gauge: http://www.amazon.com/Accu-gage-Tire-Pressure-Guage-Straight/dp/B0006O2S0U/ by the gauge and the valve portion hanging free.

My portable air compressor was plugged into the center accessory jack but the power cord had got stuck on the hand brake.

So, I did what anyone would do: I whipped the power cord in a quick up-and-down motion like Indiana Jones to get it unstuck. I didn't think about that loose end of brass dangling like a nunchuck just ready to smash into my windshield in the very same hand.

It was the only time the young guy who came out to replace it said he saw damage from the inside.

Good choice! You’ll likely never go back.

Let me find you a link... Slime 70005 Safety Spair 7-Minute Flat Tire Repair System https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001DZFZPG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_5KVeAb71CYP1N

I keep it in the trunk in the little hollow on the right side. Have had to use it once and it worked great.

I have this one and really like it. It lets me transfer all the goods from one bike to another easily.

What I have in mine:

• CO2 canisters ex
  
• CO2 inflater ex
  
• Patch kit ex
  
• Tire levers ex
  
• Allen key tool ex
  
• Tweezers (I use these to get things like thorns out of my tire)
  
• Spare chain link ex (just be sure you get the correct one)

It's bad. Slimes up the inside of the wheel, might plug your valve.

I would just get and carry a tire plug kit with the rubber cement like this. They are easy to use and some people have been known to do thousands of miles on them. I have used them on my car with great success.

You kidding me? This is the easiest tire damage to fix. Get a plug kit like this for under $10 at the nearest auto parts place, follow the directions and throw a plug in, continue driving. I've put probably 5,000 miles on a set of rear tires, both of which had plugs in similar locations. Saved the day when a girl I know thought she was totally SOL and would have to buy a new tire.

Any small, round puncture like that will plug very well.

Some tires go on some rims easily, its much more difficult on others.

There are tire bead jack tools like this one: https://www.amazon.com/Kool-Stop-Tire-Bead-Jack/dp/B001AYML7K. They work pretty well, but I do not usually find them necessary.

One thing that can help is to go around the tire and push the already mounted parts into the rim as far as they will go. This can create just a little more slack to get the remaining portion on.

For that short of a ride, everything I've said here is relatively irrelevant... I misread your original post and thought you said "1000mi." You're just a quick drive from home, it's not that big of a deal for someone to pick you up in case of breakdown. :) I'd say you're being overly-cautious, but that's a good thing. I regularly do 300+ mile round-trips in one day that begin and end at my house with no prior preparations, or without packing anything said here, so you should be fine! Just remember to have fun and not worry too much...

Tire patch kits are all the same, but you can get this kit: http://www.amazon.com/Slime-1034-A-Tire-Plug-Kit/dp/B000ET525K/ref=sr_1_17?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1333403186&sr=1-17 from Wal-mart for less than that. I have a really old one that I pulled out of a wrecked car, but it looks the same. Slime makes good stuff, that kit will hold up. The inflaters are all the same too, just pick up the CO2 inflator that Slime makes when you get the patch kit. The patch is more to get you to a shop for a new tire, rather than to get you to your destination. I really don't recommend riding on a patched tire for any length of time.

What I usually pack when I go motorcycle camping (off the top of my head):

• hammock tent -- Hennesey Expedition
  
• sleeping bag
  
• change of clothes per day (tshirt, jeans, underwear, socks)
  
• shoes
  
• riding jacket
  
• helmet
  
• bodywash
  
• deodorant
  
• toothbrush
  
• small towel
  
• screwdriver (phillips / flathead)
  
• 2x adjustable wrenches
  
• allen wrench
  
• duct tape
  
• tire patch kit
  
• CO2 inflator
  
• LED flashlight
  
• food and water (instant noodles, crackers, kippers, trail mix, energy bars, etc... )
  
• Camping stove
  
• fuel
  
• mess kit (small pot / skillet, bowl, mug, chop sticks)
  
• knife
  
• small first aid kit w/ insect repellent
  
• phone
  
• phone charger
  
• camera
  
• small tripod
  
  I generally ride until past dark, then just put up the tent at a public park and leave again at sunrise. No one will mess with you, and if they do, tell them where you're riding and where you're from (and that you did that on a scooter), and they'll usually not care and let you stay.
  
  If you're on facebook, look up GASS (greater atlanta scooter society) or the Terminal Scooter Club. Both groups occasionally go on longish (~200mi) rides in a group. A group ride would be a good way to get your feet wet without any worry of getting stuck, alone, in the middle of nowhere. :D

I used to have the around the corner car guy mount my tires. I'd bring him the rims. Then I'd bring it to the local motorcycle dealer to have them high-speed balanced. This saved me $10 instead of having the local dealer mount and balance. I bought a pair of tire irons and Ride-On sealant and now mount and balance my own. The key in mounting is to get the tires hot. Either by leaving out in the sun our using a heat gun. Here is a link to the sealant. https://www.amazon.com/Ride-Motorcycle-Balancer-Sealant-41208/dp/B00DX8BTUG/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1549054778&sr=8-3&keywords=rideon+tire+sealant

There can be a tiny bit of a vibration for the first few low speed miles but after that it's like rails at any speed including 100+mph. Bonus: puncture protection!

​

Now that I think about it OP, why not just patch it yourself? Patch kits are super cheap, and it looks like you have the tire off anyway? Tons of Youtube videos on how to do this, and it would only take you probably 15 mins? Worth a shot maybe?

https://www.amazon.com/Slime-1034-T-Handle-Tire-Plug/dp/B000ET525K/ref=sr_1_29?crid=20AWTIR9UX41A&keywords=tire+patch+kits&qid=1573233453&sprefix=tire+patch+%2Caps%2C206&sr=8-29

Here is the one I have. Very heavy duty and 5 star rated on amazon. It goes up to 100psi. I need that for truck tires, but it might be better for you to get a smaller one for better accuracy.

I love this tire bead jack. It only gets used about 3-5 times a year for changing flats and switching from snow tires to summer tires, but with super tight beads on my Schwalbes, it is a necessity.

Yeah going to ~22psi would make a very noticeable difference. Especially if the roads are corrugated. It'll be a much smoother ride. For me on load range D/E tires 18-22 psi is like the sweet spot.

I highly suggest getting the arb deflator to air down. It takes me like 20-30 seconds per tire including putting the deflator on. The screw on deflator that automatically stop were what I first used but they were annoying to use because I would have needed multiple sets set at different pressures and they take 1 to 2 minutes a tire and are never equal between the 4 tires.

ARB ARB505 E-Z Deflator, Orange https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004LQCDOA

Two Ronny Dahl videos about tire pressures and deflators.

https://youtu.be/6kul4YMcVpU

https://youtu.be/BAXRjNHIUw8

To air up I picked up a Vair compressor for about $50 but now that I have 37s I'm going to goto onboard air with a faster compressor. It worked great on my old 32s and friends 33s but if you have 35s or larger it takes like 4 minutes a tire to go from 20 to 30.

I love this gauge. Compact & accurate, and the integrated bleeder makes getting the exact pressure you want a 1-fill effort

Tested against friends fancy ones at the track and it's spot on. Recommend getting the one with the hose fitting if you don't have angled valve stems

Standard emergency gear (triangles/flares, space blankets, water, etc)

Some decent USB charge ports

A USB jump start battery if you want the ability. Also useful for jumping the Tesla if your 12V battery dies (supposedly this problem is fixed).

No spare tire in the Model S, so you may want a Fix-a-flat kit (or pay $20 more for one with a Tesla logo on it). If you prefer no goo in your tire, an old school tire repair kit is also an option for punctures in the treadwall (not in the sidewall, unfortunately).

Lots of neat Tesla-specific accessories out there. Lighted front T, add-on coat hooks (if you care about their absence), dash cams, etc.

The official unofficial delivery checklist also has a bunch of good advice.

I carry this one: https://www.amazon.com/Stop-Go-1001-Pocket-Plugger/dp/B001BBSD9C

Fits under my back seat (barely). Haven't had to use it yet but got it based on the reviews. Hope that helps!

I heard good things about these things:

http://www.amazon.com/Slime-10009-Tubeless-Tire-Sealant/dp/B000BOC2E2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1416623639&sr=8-1&keywords=green+tire+slime

I never had to use it myself fortunately, but it seems like it'll get you to the nearest tire place (kind of like run flats).

One suggestion from past experience, buy a tire plug kit like this or this. If your area is hit by a serious storm there will be roofing nails and other debris on the roads. The plugs will usually do a good job with nail punctures and it's easy to do.

Tire bleeders are awesome and pretty inexpensive. I think I picked mine up for $40.

Edit: link

here

Yes, I would if I were you. The main thing though is to keep your tire pressure maintained. With frequent weather change, it will affect your tire pressure which can make it dangerous to drive on, decrease gas milage, and many other important factors. I just bought this Tire Gauge, which I would highly recommend. Very accurate and their customer service is the best I have ever encountered. Hope this helps!

Mushroom plugs are supposed to be better than worm plugs. There is a really good kit you can pick up at some motorcycle shops from a company called "Stop N Go". I've done worm plugs and haven't had problems. Keep an eye on tire/plug between rides for anything abnormal.

I carry the mushroom plug kit now, and won't hesitate to plug tires and ride 1000s of more miles.

This works out to $1.60 per repair. It's super easy too.

I see the problem, you're using car tire irons. You need 3 spoons man.

I recomend the motionpro spoons. get this set and one of the box wrench end ones that fit your axle nut for the 3rd.

*Wanted to add, don't get a bead buddy, that's what the 3rd spoon is for. Use lots of soapy water, like 1 part dish soap to 8 parts water in a spray bottle. What I do is put the wheel up on a bucket(filled most of the way with water for stability) and use a clamp (or 3) to compress the tire into the rim on one side when popping it over the other.

Also, breaking the bead I totally deflate the tube, then stand on it and deflate more, then soapy water and a few whacks with a plastic hammer does the trick every time.

And after using lots of soapy water let it sit a while and/or ride easy for a few miles so you don't spin the tire on the rim and shear off the valve stem on your nice new tube. (Ask me how I know)

Probably something like this. I have one and I love it.

https://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-5941-Digital-Tire-Gauge/dp/B0037V0EW8/ref=sr_1_4?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1480711832&sr=1-4&keywords=digital+tire+pressure+gauge

Park tools also make tire boots that fill the function of the dollar bill. A bit more expensive - but they're adhesive, so you can stick them to the inside of the tire. Had to use one last week & it was great.

https://smile.amazon.com/Park-Tool-TB-2-Emergency-Tire/dp/B000YBGJRS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1525373110&sr=8-1&keywords=park+tools+tire+boot

I used this kit recently to replace the rear tire on my 350. I would recommend getting a 3rd tire iron if finances allow, it really makes it easier.

As for breaking the bead, I just used a couple large c-clamps.

My Haves:

Padded motorcycle underwear. Beaded seat cover. open toed shoes/sandals to let your feet breath on rest stops. Healthy snacks so you're not buying gas station garbage every time.

Chin skirt. Pin lock. lightweight balaclava. 5 pairs of good earplugs. comfortable in-ear headphones. Lots of podcasts. Nanotips

Heated grips. Heated jacket. a plan for how to get completely waterproof (you+your bike) on the side of the road at a moments notice. Ram mount for your phone. Valentine One radar detector and Visual Alert. Analog tire pressure gauge with blowoff valve. Threadlocker stick. A tank bag that is comfy to lean on. electrical tape. Zip ties. bungee cord. Chain lube. Extra hex wrenches so you can quickly tighten bolts.

You'd probably be much better off going Tubeless, keeping some Park Tool Emergency Tire Boots on hand, along with a good CO2 inflator.

The Tubeless Sealant will plug small holes, the Tire Boots will fix sidewall punctures and the CO2 inflator will make quick work of re-inflating. Just get real air in it when you get back home since CO2 permeates rubber faster than air.

And you don't have to remove the wheel.

I recently bought that tire in a 28 and a 32. No problem on size going from a 28 to a 32 you should be able to use the same tubes as well.

Just a heads up though - they are HELL to get on the rim. Have a shop do it or invest in a dedicated INSTALL tool like this - not just a set of levers

Watch some youtube videos so you get the basic gist if this is not your first rodeo but I suggest the tool I linked to - or else you better buy a couple of patch kits or extra tubes for when you pinch the tube while trying to lever the tire bead over the rim.

PRO TIPS Throw the tire outside in the hot sun for a couple hours to expand/soften the compound and use liquid soap to lube the contact areas. Hope this helps.

Nano is a fairly unusual MTB tire in the lack of pronounced cornering knobs, but it does have a central ridge that increases speed and knobs are much less fine than popular XC racing tires, so good durability. Seems like it's optimised most for gravel/dirt fire road kind of terrain and would be a solid choice if you aren't bothered about ability to corner aggressively on twisty bikepark style trails - which in a race as long as the Tour Divide I can't imagine being much of a factor.

Imo it would be a solid choice for something like the rail trail route.

With regards to tubeless, I don't use an air compressor, just a basic track pump. There's more than one technique to install tubeless tires, the most well known one does make things hard without an air compressor, but there's a couple of alternate techniques that take a little longer that make it consistently possible with a regular pump. I use this one, main difference is you use a tire lever to seat the bead of the tire as much as possible before starting to inflate, this makes much less air leak out so it seats easier.

However, I will say that in my experience if something does go wrong on the trail it's a real mess and with a minipump it would be difficult to get them to seat whatever technique you use.

The simple solution to that is to carry a spare tube like if you were riding tubed tires, if something goes wrong you just fall back to running an inner tube rather than trying to fix the tubeless system on the trail. Also carry a boot as if you get a puncture with tubeless chances are the hole in the tire will be big enough to need booting.

Pff, I have one of these. I just use the compressor to pump up my tires, and it has already saved me in two cases when I got a screw in my tires. I just needed a little air to make it to the service station and I was good to go. However, I've mostly just been using it to top up my tires more regularly.

You can carry a spare tube/CO2/Lever rolled up and velcro strapped to your seat rails, or wedge it under your toptube where it meets your downtube and secure it with a velcro strap. I recommend a side of bacon as well.

They aren't anyway. Mechanics hate them. Have a portable air compressor (that has a cig lighter cable) and rubber plugs. It's cheap and much safer.

From Amazon: Plug Kit

From Amazon: Air Compressor

I'm surprised no one has mentioned a flat repair kit. Either fix a flat cans (usually need two) for tubed tires or plugs for tubeless. The plug kits are awesome and small http://www.amazon.com/Stop-Go-International-Tubeless-Plugger/dp/B001BBSD9C/ref=sr_1_29?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1381160933&sr=1-29&keywords=tire+plug+kit comes with co2 cannisters to fill it up.

I also carry a different set of glasses so I can switch from day to night riding, and a couple tools, rain gear if there is a chance of it.

Whatever you decide, I highly recommend picking up a reliable 100 psi tire pressure gauge for your RV. The best on the market is the ElitePro Tire Gauge 100 PSI by JACO. These things are legit.

This video is a good one.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-XUFVrl0UT4

BTW, you need the levers. Just go out and buy. It's not an expensive thing and very useful thing you can carry.

I suggest you to try without metal things to mount tires. If not careful, you end up cutting the tube. I've done pinch flatting the tubes a few times so this is from my experience.

If you must, try the bead jack.

https://www.amazon.com/Kool-Stop-Tire-Bead-Jack/dp/B001AYML7K/ref=sr_1_31?ie=UTF8&qid=1483489515&sr=8-31&keywords=tire+lever+bicycle

When I use the tire lever while mounting, I do double check the lever is not pinching the tube.

for the future. This works really great to get on the tight ones. https://www.amazon.com/Kool-Stop-Tire-Bead-Jack/dp/B001AYML7K/ref=asc_df_B001AYML7K/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=241975700326&hvpos=1o2&hvnetw=g&hvrand=9865483448796285076&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9031245&hvtargid=pla-448754439296&psc=1

Consider buying a tire jack instead of a tire lever:

https://www.amazon.com/Kool-Stop-Tire-Bead-Jack/dp/B001AYML7K/ref=sr_1_25?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1483033192&sr=1-25&keywords=tire+lever

Otherwise, I do second the support for Pedros levers, they're way better than most others.

Definitely get a gauge that holds the pressure reading on the dial face until you press a valve on the side that resets it. The gauge you use looks like it would be difficult with that straight style chuck. Look for a tilted chuck or one that swivels, they are way more ergonomic in the hand. Check out the jaco elite gauge: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B010A6B6KG

If you're losing air, I've had good success using one of these on the 250. To each his own, though. A lot of people aren't comfortable riding on plugged tires. I'm cheap, and I still make sure to check the pressure before I go out as well.

Obviously the safest answer is to replace your tire. With that said, some have managed to go many thousands of miles using plugs on rear tires (specifically the temporary mushroom type plugs). Below is a link of a highly regarded temporary tire plug kit. THE NAIL MUST BE IN THE CENTER OF THE TIRE NOT ON THE SIDEWALL for this to work.

https://www.amazon.com/Stop-Go-1000-Pocket-Plugger/dp/B0006NE3KE/ref=sr_1_4?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1521179487&sr=1-4&keywords=stop+%26+go+tire+plugger

-Ideally if you can call around and find a mechanic to take off the tire and plug the inside of the puncture that would be a theoretically permanent and much more affordable fix than buying a new tire.

Try a park tool tire boot. Best option if you want to get a little more life out of the tire.

Oh, Snake wasn't referring to a brand. Slime is fine for brand. Snake is the type of kit, with the "strings" or whatever they are called, I have always heard them called snakes haha. this type of patch As sold here Also for a pump I have this one Its nice with the flexible hose so you can push it against the ground with your weight. Also the gauge is nice so you know when your done, I have tested this up to 100psi had no problems. It rides in my bag while I dirt bike, so it holds up well to abuse.

Edit, I just decided to check, and go figure your bike might have tubes... I don't know for sure, one site said this:
Custom has no tubes.
900 Classic, 900 LT, and 1500 Classic have tubes.
1500 Nomad, Mean Streak, and all 1600 and V2K are tubeless.
If you has tubes then the snake kit wont work. Also a tube repair roadside on that bike might be a bit extreme... You have to pull the wheel off, pull the tire off the wheel, patch the tube with a tube repair kit, then reinstall it all. I do this on dirt bike tires all the time, but with a road bike, I wouldn't bother trying. Just hope you don't catch a flat on the go.

i highly recommend this kit:

http://www.amazon.com/Pocket-Tire-Plugger-Inflation-System/dp/B001BBSD9C/ref=pd_sbs_auto_2?ie=UTF8&refRID=1AY40JA9GJHTGW9JYHGG

it has saved my ass (and my friends asses) multiple times!

http://www.amazon.com/ARB-10000010-Orange-Speedy-Repair/dp/B004P91FCO/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1368190861&sr=8-3&keywords=puncture+repair+kit

That's the equivalent to what I have. Works brilliantly and mine is quite light, so I just keep it in my bag (after getting 3 punctures). That kit there actually comes with lots of extras mine doesn't have.

A nail or other object embedded in the tire tread, as long as it's not in the sidewall, can be easily repaired with this handy little kit

Simply remove the object, insert the coarse reamer into and out of the hole a couple times, twisting in a clockwise fashion. Then insert one of the plugs into the hole in the end of the other reamer, coat in rubber cement, insert into hole so about an inch is sticking out of the tire. Remove the reamer, trim the excess plug off, refill tire to proper inflation, and you're good to go. Takes 5-10 minutes.

Dude, go to pep boys and grab a pack of those beef jerky things. Keep a set of pliers in the car. If you hit a nail or anything like that, just yank it out, stick the sharp stick in the hole a few times, then stick the beef jerky thing in the hole with the other stick. These things have saved me from having to go to a shop for a new tire probably about two dozen times in five years of driving.

You do not need spare tires, only a spare tube ($6) plus a patch kit ($6). Here's the guide for inner tube selection: http://guides.wiggle.co.uk/inner-tube-buying-guide

And here's the best patch kit available: https://www.amazon.com/REMA-Tour-Patch-Kit-Large/dp/B0016HSA4O/

If you come across a tire that you can't put on with your hands, use one of these: https://www.amazon.com/Kool-Stop-Tire-Bead-Jack/dp/B001AYML7K (check your LBS first though)

Best $15 I ever spent

I have tried several of the options out there, and this is by far the best one.

http://www.amazon.com/ARB-ARB505-E-Z-Deflator/dp/B004LQCDOA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1463169520&sr=8-1&keywords=arb+tire+deflator

http://www.amazon.com/ARB-10000010-Orange-Speedy-Repair/dp/B004P91FCO

I love the heavy duty tools and the case of this one. I've run plugs to the end of the tire's life before.

This is the "nuclear option" for really difficult tires: https://www.amazon.com/Kool-Stop-Tire-Bead-Jack/dp/B001AYML7K/ref=pd_sim_468_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=BZE8P13X5X94NM8JY176

I've never found soapy water to be much help, but talcum powder is sometimes effective.

I use this one, so far it's worked great. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0037V0EW8/ref=psdcmw_15709131_t1_B06ZYZS9YL

I have one that is very much like the accu-gage sold on the cartalk website. Amazon sells it too. I highly recommend it. It has a pressure release valve so you can drop to the correct pressure very quickly and accurately. I got the one that has a right angle adapter on the end because I use it on motorcycle tires too, and I don't think the straight one would fit easily into those wheels.

I use this Accu-Gage, which costs about $13. The flexible hose makes it very easy to use with spoked wheels. There's a valve that allows you to release a controlled amount of air without removing the gauge from the valve stem.

On the x-posted thread someone was asking about gear load out... so thought I'd put it here as well..

In the saddle under the seat:

1. 20 dollar bill (to use as cash, not to fix a puncture :))
   
2. A crank brothers 19-piece multi-tool
   
   
3. A spare tube (700x25c)
   
4. Rema Tip Top Touring (TT 02) patch kit
   
5. Pedro's tire levers x 2
   
6. Home Made Medical Kit (antibiotic ointment, bandages, alcoholic wipes, gauze pads, a knife, ibuprofen/pain killer)
   
7. Zip ties (x4) for any kinda MacGuyver repairs :)
   
   In the snack bag on the top tube:
   
   
8. 2 Snack bars (Kind/Clif usually)
   
9. Some salt pills (if it's too hot and I'm sweating like nuts I'll take 1 per hour)
   
10. My wallet
    
11. My keys
    
    On my person:
    
    
12. Just the bike gear that I'm wearing
    
13. a RoadID incase of emergencies or a crash
    
    
    As for clothes at work, I have a locker so stock up once a week on them.. and also keep toiletries at work. HTH!

My hobby whenever someone is about to mention the Marathon Plus is always to warn the what a nightmare they are to put on, especially the 25 mm version:)

That being said, I run Marathon Plus on both my commuter bikes (currently testing out Gator Skins on my racer). I usually go around 3.500-4.000 km before the first flat at which point I often just replace it.

It's a very rough ride on those tyres, but I really appreciate the no flats aspect.

I have this tool in my arsenal to help me put the tyres back on.

Thats awesome! But I wouldn't trust the accuracy with that with my $80k truck. I use a JACO Gauge!

i recommend the stop and go for repairs like this.

Not sure about tires for a minivan, but whichever you choose you might consider adding the ability to air down on dirt roads, and airing back up once you get to highway. Airing down makes the ride much more comfortable on dirt roads and greatly reduces your chance for getting a flat.

I have this quality air compressor that hooks up to your car battery while it's running, and this air-down kit which makes it a fast/accurate procedure to air down.

Possible in-transit repair materials for a micrometeoroid puncture of an MCT (including fuel or propellant tanks) include:

• blind rivets (can be made of metal or other materials)
  
  
• toggle bolts holding an external patch
  
  
• adhesive patch
  
  
• liquids or putties
  
  
• fuel/oxygen compatible repair plugs, as previously described.
  
  And with luck, they'll never need to be used. But worth taking up a few pounds payload mass, nevertheless.

I keep a looped-end tow strap along with the ring hooks to connect to the recovery points on the front and rear bumper. Makes it easy to ask for help if I get stuck -- just flag down a bigger vehicle.

I also carry a tire plug kit like this one: http://amzn.com/B002I52RG0 -- that's helped me a couple of times -- plus a small 12V air compressor to give you enough pressure to limp it to the gas station for a full tire fill.

Hey, I would consider buying some tire boots in case this ever happens to you again. I got some park tool ones from amazon and they work very nicely for the 2 times I've had to use them.

http://www.amazon.com/Park-Tool-TB-2-Emergency-Tire/dp/B000YBGJRS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1420513493&sr=8-1&keywords=park+tool+tire+boot

I would keep using it, but use Ride-on sealant before going another mile. Should be good then.

Ride-On Tire Balancer and Sealant -8 oz. - M/C 41208EACH https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DX8BTUG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_lu1Tzb3Q9PPGE

https://www.amazon.com/Kool-Stop-Tire-Bead-Jack/dp/B001AYML7K

Just order it now. I don't have a lot of hand strength. I literally carry one in my bike bag with the rest of my flat repair tools.

The thing is, if you're going to start buying extremely puncture-resistant tires from Schwalbe . . . well, those are about the bitchiest tires to get on, period. Like Greenguards (Marathons), Marathon Plus, Mondials, and most of the really puncture resistant Schwalbe tires can be a nightmare to get on.

This is a dumb question, but you've checked to make sure these aren't pinch flats, right?

Happy to help! All-season tires aren't bad at anything, but they aren't great either. Better than summer tires by a long shot, but aren't really comparable to winter tires in the snow. That being said, I have all-season tires on my van since it's kind of hard to carry an extra set with you to switch out twice a year when you're also living in said van.

Just make sure to get an allignment to lengthen the life of the tires, keep them properly inflated, and replace them when they get down to the wear markers to avoid hydroplaning and/or losing control in the snow. If you do happen to get stuck, don't stand on the throttle, as you'll only dig the hole deeper. Get out, let some air out of the drive tires to increase the contact surface, and then feather the throttle on and off to rock yourself out of the ditch/patch of snow. It's also a good idea to keep a simple tire plug kit and portable air compressor on hand just in case.

Here's the update:

I bought this slime and put about 3oz in it yesterday. It didn't lose any air overnight. Just finished riding it 14 miles this morning and it's still good!

A piece of good duct tape on the inside would fix it. Keep is to be strong enough to keep the tube from pushing out. Here are also tire boots. She idea. Park Tool TB-2 Emergency Tire Boot (Pack of 3) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000YBGJRS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_XYrkDbMQ4Q5YE

I have something similar and I also have a compact 12 VDC air compressor.

The kit I have uses the plugs shown in your post and also has some rather large mushroom shaped plugs. Those large mushroom plugs saved my ass in Kentucky. I had a blow out at 80 MPH loaded for a trip with a passenger. The hole in my tire was really large, too big for the string type plugs. I patched it up with the mushroom plug and it held air enough to get off the freeway and to a hotel. The sidewalls were trashed pretty bad and the bike wobbled all over the place, but it was good enough for a few miles.

The next day I was able to find a dealership close by to have a new tire installed.

I used a kit with plugs similar to these: http://www.amazon.com/Stop-Go-1001-Pocket-Plugger/dp/B001BBSD9C/ref=sr_1_33?ie=UTF8&qid=1465239804&sr=8-33-spons&keywords=motorcycle+tire+repair+kit&psc=1

Ugh those hand pumps are rough for inflating at home. Grab a floor pump and a good gauge. 22 PSI is a big difference, maybe try a JACO gauge...This one would work for schrader valves: https://www.amazon.com/JACO-ElitePro-Tire-Pressure-Gauge/dp/B016R9KKCU

Good call. I typically carry some of these...
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000IZGFCE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I also carry a patch kit...
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0016HSA4O/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

You can also get a tire patch kit and do it yourself, takes 10 minutes and costs less than $10. You can buy it at Walmart, or any auto parts store. It should contain the following: Rubber strips, rubber cement, and a plunging tool.

https://www.amazon.com/Slime-1034--T-Handle-Tire-Plug/dp/B000ET525K

Like that. It comes with instructions, but the gist is to coat a rubber strip in rubber cement, then fold it to form a "U" shape on the tip of the tool. Plunge the strip through the hole, then snip off the excess. The "U" shape allows for the rubber strip to maintain pressure against the hole. You can also do this yourself if you have some good rubber laying around from another tire, some rubber cement, and a screwdriver.

Mine is older but looks like this.

https://www.amazon.com/JACO-ElitePro-Tire-Pressure-Gauge/dp/B016R9KKCU/

If they're absolutely impossible to install, get a Tire Bead Jack. It's often the only thing that will work, and you'll save your thumbs in the process.

A true pro will dismount the tire from the rim and patch the tire on the inside. Us DIYers use a plug instead, and yes, you can do it yourself. Pick up a plug kit at your local auto parts house or discount store. Get one with a T-handle. It doesn't have to be an expensive kit but the very cheapest ones have a "screwdriver" handle and won't give you enough leverage. This video will show you the procedure. DO NOT repair a puncture outside the tread area!

Was there any explanation for the additional 1.5 week delay that you were told on Wednesday morning?

I'm with you on most of your rant - it's ridiculous and frustrating that they would miss deadlines continually on delivering you your car.

The spare tire thing, you can call it elitist if you want, but it's a general trend in the industry for cars that aren't intended to go off-road. So I would think Subaru will continue to deliver cars with a spare tire, but every EV that I've ever seen (Bolt, Leaf, Ioniq) has skipped them to save weight and for Tesla's the assumption is that you can use Tesla's Roadside Assistance if you have a flat. I think as we go forward you will find fewer and fewer sedans - EV or not - that come with a spare tire. I carry this in my Model 3: https://www.amazon.com/Slime-70005-Safety-7-Minute-Repair/dp/B001DZFZPG

Also, if you want my opinion on the delay, my guess would be that they found something wrong with your car during final inspection and are fixing it. If I'm correct, then they don't want to tell you this because most people don't want to hear "we found something wrong" and a unspecified delay.

When you get the car, you will likely love it. It looks fantastic, mine gets lots of attention and it is loads of fun to drive. Hang in there.

just get a plug kit: https://www.amazon.com/Slime-1034-T-Handle-Tire-Plug/dp/B000ET525K

And air pump: https://www.amazon.com/Cartman-compressor-Portable-Inflator-Storage/dp/B00OZHRS36/ref=sr_1_6?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1473685575&sr=1-6&keywords=12v+air+compressor&refinements=p_n_feature_keywords_browse-bin%3A2911368011%2Cp_n_feature_keywords_three_browse-bin%3A5648814011%2Cp_72%3A1248861011

You'll be better off.

https://www.amazon.com/Slime-1034-T-Handle-Tire-Plug/dp/B000ET525K

here bro hope this helps

good reveiews

https://www.amazon.com/Stop-Go-1075-Standard-Plugger/dp/B0018EUDHW

I have and have used this on my truck

https://www.amazon.com/Slime-1034-T-Handle-Tire-Plug/dp/B000ET525K/ref=pd_lpo_263_bs_lp_t_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=MVDGZMH8C9SY4QH3X0GV

I heard the mushroom-style plugs are better, e.g. this one .

Did you use something like this?

This tool makes mounting tires much easier:

http://www.amazon.com/Kool-Stop-Tire-Bead-Jack/dp/B001AYML7K

I may recommend trying to grab a Var Tire lever if you an find one. They make changing tires with frozen beads a bit easier. Alternatively, there is the Kool Stop Tire Jack.

This is all dependent on how tight your tire to rim sizing is. If it's super lose, ignore this.

This is good advice, if you still have issues, deflate the tube a bit. If that still doesn't work, one of these are totally a lifesaver for the extremely stubborn combinations: Kool Stop Tire Bead Jack

Slime 70005 Safety Spair 7-Minute Flat Tire Repair System https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001DZFZPG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_ULIXBbKR3K2DR

This video helped me with my technique: http://youtu.be/-XUFVrl0UT4 .

Also, the bead jack is supposed to help. Haven't tried it myself: http://www.amazon.com/Kool-Stop-Tire-Bead-Jack/dp/B001AYML7K

Do yourself a favor:

https://www.amazon.com/Kool-Stop-Tire-Bead-Jack/dp/B001AYML7K

Or if at home or touring (where it make sense to carry extra tools), use a tool like the Kool Stop Tire Bead Jack. Works very well. https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B001AYML7K/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_E8RXDbM907Q8X

Flat how? Got a puncture? Try this: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0006NE3KE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I used it on two different punctures, same back tire. Works well.

You're fine. One of these plugs will be fine until the tire wears out.

https://www.amazon.com/Slime-1034-T-Handle-Tire-Plug/dp/B000ET525K

I wouldn't sweat it.

This thing helps some: https://www.amazon.com/Kool-Stop-Tire-Bead-Jack/dp/B001AYML7K

A tire bead jack will do the job. It uses leverage to stretch the tire and a plastic lip to protect the rim.

repair it for like 7$

https://www.amazon.com/Slime-1034-T-Handle-Tire-Plug/dp/B000ET525K/ref=sr_1_6?crid=M6TBSPCEHIWV&keywords=slime+tire+plug+kit&qid=1550703204&s=gateway&sprefix=slime+tire+plug+%2Caps%2C197&sr=8-6

It looks like a tool to plug tires. https://www.amazon.com/Slime-1034-T-Handle-Tire-Plug/dp/B000ET525K

I got one of these slime inflators keep in the trunk at the recommendation of the Prius chat forums since it is tire pressure sensor safe (unlike the one that came with the car). Between that and a AAA card you should be fine.

I keep a pump like this in my trunk so I can inflate without going to the gas station.

Edit: Just to clarify, you can use the compressor without the slime.

Buy this, patch your own tire. Feel like a man.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002I52RG0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_yMBlDbSXXSQEZ

Yes, most shops won't plug or touch a nail in the tire. Though, it's a PR5 I'm in the same boat just got those tires 4 months ago so I'd be thinking about avoiding $250+ if at all possible too.

Have you considered Ride On? Haven't tried it myself for balancing and that crap but people swear by it.

Also watch this - it's kind of amazing.

I bought this pump: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0036E9VB6/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

Combined with this plug kit: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000ET525K/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

I don't think the Tesla kit is worth it and I've heard the compound it sprays into the tire is ironically ineffective since Tesla tires have acoustic foam in them.

I would highly recommend this product if you don't like or don't know how to change a flat tire:

http://www.amazon.com/Slime-70005-Safety-7-Minute-Repair/dp/B001DZFZPG

Are you sure the wheels are larger? Some tire manufacturers tend to make their beads a little tighter. Those tend to loosen a little bit with lots of riding.

I once got a set of new Vittorias that left blisters on both thumbs from my trying to get them on to my Mavics. The mechanic showed me a variation of one of these: http://www.amazon.com/Kool-Stop-Tire-Bead-Jack/dp/B001AYML7K that he swore by.

I forgot deflators. I use this one, it pulls the stem and your tire is deflated in about 10 seconds. It took me about 1-2 uses to get good with it, I can now air down in less time then it takes most people to screw on the auto deflators.

http://www.amazon.com/ARB-ARB505-E-Z-Deflator/dp/B004LQCDOA

Yeah, much cheaper than a new tire.

http://www.amazon.com/Kool-Stop-Tire-Bead-Jack/dp/B001AYML7K

I had a Conti/CR-18 pairing that was truly awful. It ate tire levers for breakfast, lunch, and dinner. Thankfully it rarely flatted. Sometimes I'd take it to a shop to get flats fixed just so I didn't have to deal with it. I'd service the bearings but somebody else can fix the flat at their usual rate thankyouverymuch. Mechanics complained. We got into discussions about rim sizes. It was all labeled 622. Anyway, that jack makes it easy. You'll have the tire back on in under a minute.

Some bike shops will have them for sale.

Just don't let the velominati see it.

I've run many, many patched tires. Learn to use the cat-turd plugs. You can get them at walmart or amazon. These things should be hard to put in and they will NOT come out. It helps (becomes possible) if you remove the valve core (and thus all the air) before trying to push the plug in from the outside. Use the rubber cement as lubricant, if it dries, you're not going to be able to push the plug in. The advantage is you do not have to remove the tire. I run them down to the belt after that, but never over 100mph (assuming it was a proper Z rated tire).

Uhhh .... why would you buy an entire new set of tires if one has a leak?

Did you try going to a different mechanic?

Or maybe use a product like this ?

I use the most basic slime kit but I can't seem to find it online, I think it's a one-off for auto parts stores. But the deluxe version is on Amazon here: https://www.amazon.com/Slime-1034-T-Handle-Tire-Plug/dp/B000ET525K

It's also sold at Walmart and in many auto parts places. I think it's slightly cheaper in store and some places carry the kit without the rubber cement.

These are also a good way to patch a slashed tire.

Exactly and only use Rema Tip Top patches. when I was a NYC messenger Rema's were a godsend. I've installed them in a horrendous downpour they held

Tube or tubeless? Assuming that is a small nail, wire of staple sticking that is in the center of the picture, no slime is going to fix that while that is still poking through. Assuming tube If you are lucky once you remove the thing causing the puncture some slime might patch it, you could give it a shot but you may need to remove the tube and patch it. Assuming tubeless, try a tire plug kit. Tire plugs work on car tires dont see why they would not work on scooter tires. https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B000ET525K/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_X9UvDbZ5CMEDR

On tubeless setups on scooters I have wondered if something like stans no tubes would work but I think the PSI might be too high if I recall the stans instructions.

Found this, looks like it will help me in the future but doesn't really help me now.

This. It's not a bad idea to keep a kit in the trunk with a little pump or something.

https://www.amazon.com/Slime-1034-T-Handle-Tire-Plug/dp/B000ET525K/ref=lp_15706711_1_5?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1541712372&sr=1-5

Oh man I know that frustration so well. You SHOULD be able to install a tire without levers, but I’ve gotten to the point where I’m covered in sweat and feeling like existence is hopeless trying to get that last little bit on. No need to get to that point if you don’t have to. this tool has been a lifesaver for me on those really tough ones

No car should be without a tire rope plug kit and a half decent multi-tool. The rope plug kit is far better to use than the spare if you just pick up a nail/screw in the treads, and you'll want the multi tool to extract the nail and cut the end of the plug.

A small inflator, jumper cables (or jump pack), and first aid kit are also good to have.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000ET525K/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1503808106&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=tire+plug+kit&dpPl=1&dpID=41xjVQvErTL

And for the multi tool, skip the wally world off brand ones. An entry level Leatherman or Gerber tool will last much longer, and would be less frustrating to use.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005DI0XM4/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1503808218&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=Leatherman&dpPl=1&dpID=41eQ%2BspHPIL&ref=plSrch

An empty Gel pack is another common solution. Of course, you could also just keep a proper tire boot in your kit.

Specialized tires do run small. They are the right size, just really tight. Kool stop makes a nice tool to help get these stubborn tires on.

http://www.amazon.com/Kool-Stop-Tire-Bead-Jack-Handle/dp/B001AYML7K

You probably want a tire boot instead.

EDIT: try using one of these, before you use heat. I'm surprised your LBS didn't have one, though.
I didn't realize they were carbon. I was going to suggest hitting it with a heat gun and then attempting to just press tire down and out of the bead like you would on a car or motorcycle, before trying to get up under it with the lever. But heat gun is likely too aggressive for the carbon, i would hit it with a blowdryer though for sure.

I always keep a flashlight and an accurate tire pressure gauge like this one.

Get something like this:

JACO Elite Tire Pressure Gauge - 60 PSI https://www.amazon.com/dp/B010A6B6KG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_VODRDb2JRM722

Carry one of these. http://www.amazon.com/Stop-Go-International-Plugger-Tubeless/dp/B0006NE3KE/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1412085910&sr=8-2&keywords=stop+and+go+plug I bought a pair of new bt45s. On my way home daily from work, there was a construction site and i picked up three nails one day and two another day. 4,000 miles later, the tire still holds air.

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0006NE3KE/

> http://www.amazon.com/Stop-Go-International-Tubeless-1000/dp/B0006NE3KE

That is the kit I keep, along with my tiny little compressor.

Have you used it?

http://www.amazon.com/Slime-1034-A-T-Handle-Tire-Plug/dp/B000ET525K/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_nC?ie=UTF8&colid=1HYUEUS62JSQE&coliid=I1C18QFUH05P1V

That's a reamer from a tire repair kit.

Here's one on Amazon.

https://www.amazon.com/Slime-1034-T-Handle-Tire-Plug/dp/B000ET525K

A reamer tool for cleaning a hole in a tire for putting in a tire plug.

​

similar to this: https://www.amazon.com/Slime-1034-T-Handle-Tire-Plug/dp/B000ET525K/ref=sr_1_9?keywords=tire+repair+kit&qid=1562683995&s=gateway&sr=8-9

https://www.amazon.com/Slime-1034-T-Handle-Tire-Plug/dp/B000ET525K is what they're talking about

http://www.uniroyaltires.com/catalog/nailgard_pop.html

http://www.amazon.com/Slime-1034-A-T-Handle-Tire-Plug/dp/B000ET525K

I keep a Slime pump and a plug kit under my seat. It has come in handy more than once and it was a major life savor being far from home.

LFTL.

Tire patch kit and a bike pump.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000ET525K/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1522772498&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=tire+patch+kit

https://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Innovations-G2650-Tubeless-Repair/dp/B000P1RP48/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1525134567&sr=8-1&keywords=mountain+bike+tire+plugs

I don't carry a tire, but I do carry a tire boot. That plus two tubes and a tube patch kit should do it.

Tire boot (whether store bought or a dollar bill), zip ties, no-tool chain quick link, duct tape.

Put a boot inside and ride on. By boot I mean a tire patch.
https://www.amazon.com/Park-Tool-TB-2-Emergency-Tire/dp/B000YBGJRS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1478388230&sr=8-1&keywords=Park+tools+tire+patch