(Part 2) Reddit mentions: The best audio & video power cables

That case looks great! Looks like a nice solution to have everything contained in 1 spot. I like to make my PSVR mobile, so I can share it as much as possible. I came up with a different but more expensive solution.

Have you ever heard of the Gaems cases? They are cases with a built in 15.5 -19'' screen that you can carry your console and controllers in. They make your PSVR completely mobile and ready to play anywhere.

There are two main versions of the case. The sentry has a 15.5'' screen and gets the job done well. It goes on sale often at Amazon for $179 while the regular price is $199.

The vanguard is more robust and has a 19 inch screen but rarely gets discounted. $349 is a big step up in price and it's main reason for existing was to fit an Xbox one comfortably. Here is everything I use in my set up if you're interested.

Gaems vanguard: 19 inch screen version

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00H0R9DSG/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1485747244&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=gaems&dpPl=1&dpID=31SkqJCR2cL&ref=plSrch

Gaems sentry: 15.5 Inch screen:

https://gaemspge.com/store/sentry.html

Psvr travel case: there are cheaper alternatives but I have this one and it's great.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01LB4KJ90/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1485747548&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=psvr+case&dpPl=1&dpID=41iSXH1b7QL&ref=plSrch

AC 2 to 1 tail plug: this is great because in some rooms you might not have room to plug everything into a single outlet. This gives you 2 outlets with 1 plug. The psvr, ps4, and screen all need to be plugged in so this makes it a bit easier to accomplish.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000QZ6KBC/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1485747673&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=ac+2+to+1&dpPl=1&dpID=512TfCxLsfL&ref=plSrch

Extra ac power cord for the ps4: not needed but one less thing to route and hook up at home.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0017UCTX8/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1485747983&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=polarized+ac+power+cord&dpPl=1&dpID=41243qPxqsL&ref=plSrch

Extra ps4 camera: again not needed but helpful to leave one in the psvr carrying case. They go on sale often at Amazon for $39.99

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01LW1OM63/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1485748117&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=ps4+camera

Gaems PGE battle bag: not needed at all but I love this thing. Designed to fit all the cases and keeps them from getting dinged up. Also has a Very large pouch on the side for more storage. The AIM controller actually fits nicely here.

https://gaemspge.com/store/pge-battle-bag.html

Also worth picking up would be some kind of car visor or slim cd traveling case to hold 24 or so of your favorite games. You can place it under neath the straps that secure the console just fine.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000CAO7XO/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1485753365&sr=8-4&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=cd+visor&dpPl=1&dpID=41MAD8WSA1L&ref=plSrch

Lastly, some form of luggage locks. I've never had a problem with the case popping open, but I've also never risked it. I have these combo locks and they work great.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01J3U7PDC/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This has really made the vr much easier to lug around for me and awesome way to share it with people.

PWM stands for Pulse Width Modulation.

Most fans come with three pins - one for 12v power, one for ground, and one for monitoring fan speed (in RPM). In order to change fan speed, you have change the voltage (to 9v, 7v, etc).

PWM fans come with 4 pins - along with the usual three they have a "control" pin. I'm not an expert in the electrical nuances of how the control pin figures into the equation, but the gist of PWM is that instead of lowering the fan voltage, you cycle the electricity on and off very rapidly. So instead of dropping the voltage to 7v or something, you leave it at 12v but but turn the power on and off ever 20 milliseconds (pulled that out of my ass, no idea how fast they really cycle).

The end result of this is that PWM fans are easier to control speed-wise. Many (most?) CPU fan headers (on the motherboard) will be 4-pin PWM headers, which allows the motherboard to ramp up the fan when the CPU is under heavy load and slow it down when the cpu is at idle.

Case fan headers (there are usually several sprinkled around the motherboard) are usually 3-pin, because they don't need to be controlled like the CPU fan does. If you plug a 3-pin fan into a 3- or 4- pin header, it will run at full speed (12v). Some 3 pin fans come with adaptors that you can use to lower voltage (or you can buy them separately) or you can buy a fan speed controller and use that to (wait for it) control fan speed.

With PWM fans, you can control them via software if you plug them into 4 pin headers. If you plug them into 3 pin headers, they will run at full speed just like a 3 pin fan.

If you're wondering which you should get, check out what kind of headers your motherboard has (and/or fan controller, if you're planning on getting one) and buy fans that match. Many fans are available in 3- and 4- pin flavors, so be sure to get the ones that suit you.

As far as recommendations go, there are dozens of fans out there and I don't have experience with many of them. Antec TruQuiet fans and Gentle Typhoons are what i run, they are both good for the money. Here is a good list of fans to think about.

Hope that helps, I'm pretty new to this myself but feel free to ask any questions, I'll do my best to answer them (or admit to not knowing).

It sounds like a cool project, a bit ambitious but totally feasible and thought out. I think with a projector in a unified wooden case you'll want about two 200mm case fan at the top of it. I'm sure you could find a way to do that without spoiling the appearance. If you went that way, you'd want to have it on small legs with enough porting on the bottom that it can suck in air to feed the fans on top (or maybe another 200mm fan on the bottom too). The reason you'd want big fans like 190mm, or 200mm, is that they spin at a much lower speed (bout 700RPMs vs ~1500-2500).

You'll have to figure a way to get the power button and a couple USB ports external to the case. You could always just get a USB front/back panel hub. Something like this seems a bit pricy for a cable but it could help things out. The power button can be made from any momentary switch but you could also just grab something like this for ease of installation.

It might be easier to mount your stuff if you build an existing case into the wooden box, rather than trying to mount things straight to it; it depends on how handy you are. Who knows, I'm just throwing out suggestions that may or may not be useful to you.

You're right that you won't want a nice, unique, possibly expensive setup to be hindered by a lower end computer. You may even want to step it up to the A10-5800k for $120 (currently the top AMD APU).

As far as small HTPC cases go, Silverstone cases (like this) always seem to be pretty popular. I wouldn't exactly describe them a budget cases but they are nice.

Anyway, like I said. these are all just ideas/suggestions to get you thinking.

For reasonable results, you can try recording directly to the PC's HD Audio on the motherboard.

For better results, I recommend an outboard USB-based audio input. I use the Xitel INport, but that appears to have been discontinued some time ago. Most of these are just AC97 CODECs on a USB stick, but that's really all you need them to be.

If you don't have a mic yet, you may be better off getting an entry-level USB mic, like the Shure PG27 ($200) or even a Blue Snowball ($50), although I find the tonal response on the Snowball somewhat lacking.

Your microphone is really going to make or break your recording fidelity, and I find that the dynamic range and forgiving nature of a moving-coil vocal mic (like the Shure SM58) outweigh the negatives of slightly warm color and moderately boosted midrange response.

That said, if she's taking her PC with her to record her performances, it behooves you to make it as small and quiet as possible. To that end, I'd build something like this: Mini-ITX, quiet components, quiet hard drive for lots of uncompressed recording space.

If you find the included case fans are too loud, try a pack of these ($6) to quiet them down.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

Type|Item|Price

----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel Core i3-4160 3.6GHz Dual-Core Processor | $112.50 @ Newegg
CPU Cooler | Cooler Master RR-HT2-28PK-R1 54.8 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler | $17.98 @ Newegg
Motherboard | *MSI H81I Mini ITX LGA1150 Motherboard | $61.98 @ Newegg
Memory | *G.Skill Sniper Series 8GB (1 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 Memory | $57.98 @ Newegg
Storage | Crucial MX100 128GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | $62.99 @ Amazon
Storage | Seagate Barracuda 3TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $98.23 @ Amazon
Case | Rosewill Neutron Mini ITX Desktop Case | $69.99 @ Amazon
Power Supply | Rosewill Stallion 400W ATX Power Supply | $29.99 @ Amazon
Optical Drive | Samsung SH-224DB/RSBS DVD/CD Writer | $15.74 @ Amazon
| | Total
| Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available | $527.38
| *Lowest price parts chosen from parametric criteria |
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-01-15 17:10 EST-0500 |

So far I'm happy with it. It is super loud. The cpu fan is by far the loudest, which is easy to change. The other fans don't necessarily need to run at full speed. It's a little quieter now, but the 4 PSUs are loud. Here's a video before I swapped mobos. It's definitely not that loud now, but it's still noisy.

It wasn't hard at all swapping FreeNAS from the RoseWill. The front panel connectors wouldn't reach the jfp1 pin on my motherboard. I had a spare power button that works fine for now.

I wish I could use my ATX PSU so it wouldn't be so loud.

The one you linked looks fine, I personally wouldn't want to pay that much in shipping. I was lucky to find mine local.

Edit* I found this thread which starts:
> If you don't mind noise, it is fine in the current setup you get it. However, if like me, you don't want to drawn your entire home in a white noise than my current journey may be of interest to you.

Hahah yeah it's super harrowing. I totally understand.

A motherboard speaker should give you a debug code. On some motherboards, there's a little 7-segment display that gives debug codes, but I presume that's not on yours.

If the debug code says something interesting, that'll help! And yes, that would have been the point to break out the screwdriver and pliers ^_^ Or whatever it takes to do a bios reset, really.

____

The power LED is actually just an LED, as in, a light emitter diode. Any old one should do the trick. PC motherboards are either 12 volt or 5 volt, but you can 'pop' an LED and that's the only thing that'll break, so you're free to experiment... I think pc motherboard LED's are 5 volt.

Hooking up an LED requires wires and a uhh...plug? Is that the word?

http://www.amazon.com/StarTech-BEZELWRKIT-Case-Front-Bezel/dp/B00213KDQK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1453074427&sr=8-1&keywords=motherboard+LED

Here's a kit that apparently has everything you'd need to hook up a power LED :-) Except a place for you to put it in your front bezel, but you know. If you want an LED.

Great work so far! I think you should try out the intel extreme memory profile I suggested before.

There are really only four things you have to watch for when choosing a power adapter: connector size, voltage, current, and polarity.
Input voltage is what the device in question needs to function; your headphone transmitter for example. Output voltage refers to a device, often a power supply, that delivers or sends out a certain amount of power; the thing you don't have for example.

For polarity, the same rule will almost always apply in the same way for all electronics. Yours is no exception since the pictured symbol indicates that the center pin is positive (+) and outer case is negative (-).

For voltage, 4.5v power adapters are fairly uncommon in my experience. Since your device is battery powered, it will almost certainly be able to accept an extra 0.5v on its input. 5v power adapters are also a lot cheaper and more readily available. You might even already own one.

For current, all you ever have to check is if your power adapter has an equal or greater current capacity (mA, A, milliamps, or Amps) then what the device requires. since your device is a simple headphone/audio transmitter, I'm going to guess it dosn't require much current. Maybe 500mA at the most. With that being said, 5v 2000mA power adapters are still as cheap or cheaper then most of the lesser powerful ones.

I'm going to take a wild guess and say that the jack pictured is a 2.1mm (pin) by 5.5mm (outer sleeve). This is among the most common sizes and seems to scale to your picture nicely.

In conclusion, here is what I would get:
5V DC Wall Power Adapter ($7.29 + Free Shipping)
If on a budget, this should do just as well (though might take couple weeks to ship):
Generic USB Barrel Jack Cable ($1.71 + Free Shipping)

The way I did it on my media server, I chopped an old molex fan adapter and soldered the 12v and ground to the input on my led controller. If you're using an Arduino, I'll assume you have some jumper wires around... Splice/solder/connect however you're comfortable one of those jumpers to the positive and another to the ground. If you're unfamiliar, with the psu's female molex connector facing you flat end down, angled end up, the pins are

/ 12v gnd gnd 5v \

If you use a fan adapter like I did, the fan connectors are the 12v and ground.

Or, you can buy premade connectors and use those.

4-Pin Male Molex Connector to 12V DC 5.5mm x 2.1mm https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0121QHR2E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_XjE5Cb8QAVWKN

4-Pin Molex to 5V Female USB https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FK7TJG1/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_WmE5CbHGD5W1P

Male/Female 4 Pin Molex Pin Extractor Tool https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0094MIS9U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_eoE5CbGGGNKXA

If you want to rewire both to a single connector, you can. The pin tool will make it a lot easier than trying to pull them out with a paper clip.

great idea, just a few tips then. Route the cpu power cable behind the back before putting in the motherboard (I didn't.) Also, if you want more than one fan with this mobo then get these or similar as fans in slots 2 and 3 cannot be controlled and run at full blast without these.

I hope your daughter enjoys building and using the PC, it will play minecraft awesomely.

PS: I'm happy to give help if you need it, just pm me (I'm no expert though)

Thanks for the detailed explanation. I think I'll be going with the molex solution as it seems much easier. Now I have some more basic/logistical questions:

1. Looking at the wiring schematic, it looks like I'll need wire connecting the positive and negative ends of each row of LEDs to each other. Simple enough. On one end of the circuit, it shows the positive ends of 3 LEDs all coming to a point, then to 12V, and the other end showing all 3 resistors coming to a point. Would this be accomplished by taking one long wire and soldering the ends of each LED/resistor to it perpendicularly? Also, for the LED -> 12 V connection, do I take another piece of wire and perpendicularly solder it to the power supply? Leading to my next question:
   
   
2. Would the LED -> 12V connection have to be soldered to something like this? Or am I soldering directly to the two molex pins? If it's the latter, I'm guessing it wouldn't be a good idea to solder directly to the PSU molex cable, so I would need a molex splitter probably.

Does the cable look like this http://www.amazon.com/Cables-Unlimted-6-feet-Mickey-Mouse/dp/B000234TYI/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1394823217&sr=8-3&keywords=power+cord

or this http://www.amazon.com/standard-compatible-Replacement-Electronic-Figure-8/dp/B0058FN6V2/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1394823217&sr=8-2&keywords=power+cord

Either way they are easy to get on amazon or whatever. It sounds like you're talking about the simple power cord that connects the power brick to the wall.

Also, it's probably just the fuse that's gone. In this case you could either find a spare fuse, or scavenge one from another plug.

What country are you in? I'll be able to help you find a replacement more easily if I know what mains plug end to find you ;)

Primary Components are...

Rosewill RSV-L4500 Case: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0091IZ1ZG/

GPU Bracket Coversion Kit: https://bitcointalk.org/index.php?topic=1731197.0

F12 Silent Arctic (~800RPM) 120mm Fans: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0119T0D4I/

6-Pack v009S Risers: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B077JYBDYT/

6pin Extension Cables: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B073M4643C/

Corsair 1200 Watt Platinum PSU: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00U6GTONM/

GIGABYTE GA-H110-D3A Mainboard: https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B073ZMZV6K

4 PNY GeForce GTX 1060 6GB GPUs: https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B01IR5MR32

I just built this for something to keep me out of trouble, didn't really expect to make any money, maybe free heat in the winter. So far I'm pleasantly surprised it's making ~$40 weekly (at rates as of today, lol) after deducting power costs. No sure how long it will last at that rate, but I'm having fun. Got one more 8pin (to dual 6pin) corsair type 3 cable arriving next week, then will be able to throw another card in there (PSU has six 8pin ports). Making about 100+ RVN daily right now, probably gonna look for newer coins once in awhile and just HODL them all and see what happens...that's my stragegy so far.

I was very surprised how well the 3 front fans do only being 800 to 1000 RPM, then again I don't have monster GPUs in this rig, just 6pin 1060s. Heat did NOT increase after closing the top, BUT I had to remove the front door because it cut down airflow too much and things heated up very quickly. Mining X16 seems to keep heat / power usage down I guess? Haven't mined much else yet, I suspect ethash might be a different story.

EDIT: The four 1060 GPUs are only pulling 330 watts at the wall...pretty sweet. I haven't mined in years, I was predicting a lot higher.

Lots of people tried the original Xbox it’s not that hard especially with new form factors like micro STX , about the Atari tho I won’t really work but it would work jut drill holes for the air and put something to ride it up like they use in laptops
EDIT:the only problem is that you will need a pick psu and a laptop style power Brick the like this and this they might not be compatible so please do more research other then that you will also need a power button and some front IO if you want it this power button and this is usb 3.0 , have fun with your project m8

Sure man, anything to help a fellow PCMR brother out.

I was able to find this on amazon, of course that assumes your friend can get it before he gets to you in India.

If you have to order it and get it shipped to India, then I probably won't be of the best of help because I don't know what website are the best for you.

The cables you're looking to get extensions for are called system panel connectors. They also might go by fpanel, front panel connectors, or system panel headers. Those are the names for them in the U.S. at least. The official name of the cables are IDC (insulation displacement contact) or IPC connectors (insulation piercing contact).

So you need a 2x5 IDC pin cable for the audio, and it looks to be the same for the USB1 and USB2 IDC pin cables as well. The FAudio and FUSB connectors look to have one unusued but I'm not sure what it would be specifically called.

I would suggest having another PCMR member check over what I said to make sure it's correct before you make any purchases of course.

Looks like it has two different power connectors, one for low-voltage DC (14V) and another for line voltage AC (120V, 60Hz).

If you use the DC power input, you'd need to make sure you get an adapter that can supply sufficient current. Since the AC input is labeled as drawing 35 watts, you might need something in the 2.5+ amp range. It looks like a standard "barrel" connector, so assuming it can tolerate 15V, this adapter could possibly work. Though there are different sizes of barrel connector, so not guaranteed.

The AC connector might take the polarized version of an IEC 60320 C7 connector. Note that in the wikipedia article, the polarized version has one rounded end and one end that is squared off, like in the picture. (Also note that since the speaker has a polarized unswitched outlet on it, it is probably meant to be used with a polarized connector, whereas a plain old C7 isn't polarized.) If polarized C7 is right, you can find them here and here, among other places.

EDIT: Actually, for the DC power supply, you can probably do 12V as well, since that is the standard for automotive power, and these speakers probably support that so they can be used in an RV, car, van, etc.

Thanks, I really appreciate your input on the cables. Definitely felt like I was going down a rabbit hole there.

Would something like this work with an SFX PSU?

https://www.amazon.com/Clovertale-Sleeved-Cable-connectors-White/dp/B078WQWVJZ

Forza Horizon vs. Forza 5: They're two difference experiences. FH2 is an open world experience with street racing-style arcade-y racing. FM5 is a racing sim, focused on track style racing. People who like one won't necessarily like the other, which is why it's cool to have both options. And FM5 isn't necessarily riddled with microtransactions. It presents more opportunities for microtransactions, but you don't have to ever use them for anything.

TV: You do not need Kinect for TV, but if you don't have a Kinect you'll need to get an IR blaster cable in order to change channels. You plug that into the back of the console, and then tape the other end to the IR receiver on your cable box.

HDD: Any USB3 drive will be good, but you should prefer 7200RPM drives. You can buy a purpose-designed external drive, or get a USB 3 drive sled and plug in whatever drive you like (such as an SSD, though that would be massive overkill given that USB 3 will be the speed limiter).

Assuming you are using Bounty/Extra/Ultra - it looks like the Lights on those take astandard 2 prong electronics cord that can be directly plugged into the wall (I tested with multimeter on my bounty that it puts out/passes 120v AC) - What happens when you plug the hood by itself (bypassing the base)? - I wonder if it is shorting, and causing the base to trip/power down? Be sure to do this on a GFCI circuit...oh yeah, this suggestion is for entertainment purposes only, not liable for damages ;-)

For sure! It's a nice final touch I like to add to builds

I usually get these: https://www.amazon.com/EZDIY-Sleeved-Cable-Extension-Extra-Sleeved/dp/B074LJY8XS/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=ezdiy+sleeved+cable&qid=1562979262&s=gateway&sprefix=Ezdiy+&sr=8-3

They come with combs as well to help retain their shape and cable manage them. They'll act as extension cables so plug them into your existing power supply cables

Mount TV and place center below at ear level.

Also, you can conceal all of your cables and run power to the TV using something like this. They're pretty easy to install and look way nicer than using tape.

might just give up and go for this

http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B008O50WGA?keywords=xfx&qid=1450303709&ref_=sr_1_13&sr=8-13

even if its super expensive for what it is

i dont think ill be able to look at another psu. these other websites like ebuyer and ccl aren't guaranteed before Christmas deliveries, whilst Aria is like ten pound delivery. Would you consider this the best bang for the bucket at a reasonable SLI able PSU on Amazon?

are you talking about a 3 or 4 pin fan header? like this? you can make your own pretty easily if you have all the connectors and a little time.

Imo even a cheap one on amazon would work. I've bought 2 of these and they work well with my Nzxt sentry 3. (that is if you have more than $25.)
Also, Ebay has some sleeved ones, which would work. plus free shipping :)

I have a Corsiar SF600 and these cables are perfect. They should 100% fit yours. They're just extensions, not replacements.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B078WQWVJZ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

EDIT: Would like to clarify, I'm not selling these cables, I'm suggesting you buy them from Amazon

your cable management leaves something to be desired. Get yourself an extension kit like this: https://www.amazon.com/Clovertale-Sleeved-Cable-connectors-White/dp/B078WQWVJZ/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=sleeved+cable+extension+kit&qid=1565133397&s=gateway&sr=8-4
Just make sure it's rated okay and the wire size is equal or larger than that offered by your PSU. Your PSU should list what wire gauge it uses, most likely 16AWG. and FYI AWG gets smaller as the wire itself gets larger, so an 18 AWG is smaller than a 16AWG

Here's what I did with my back cable management that you could try: https://imgur.com/a/y6ROFyX

Very nice work, it looks great.

The only criticism I have is that it is against code to run the power cable through the wall like that. There are many kits that can easily fix this, though they are kind of pricey

http://www.amazon.com/Wiremold-Company-CMK70-Screen-Cable/dp/B006K3CM4S/ref=sr_1_13?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1372172782&sr=1-13&keywords=wiremold

Got a thermaltake smart 500w.. thinking of getting a 2080, may have to replace it and reroute all wires... I did get some cable combs and extensions: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078WQWVJZ/ though want a better case and rgb fans.. haha

Cablemod is good, if you want to save a little money you can get a cheaper set like these

The only way your riser is bad is if it has a SATA connector on the board. They all come with SATA harness adapters, but the guide says not to use them. You don't need to run the adapters if your PSU is properly set up.

This part of the guide goes over what to convert (molex>6-pin or 6-pin>molex).

Here's the list from the Wiki:

Version | Power | Link | Recommended?
---|---|---|----|
006 | Molex | Amazon | Yes, if 006c isn't available
006c | 6-pin | Amazon | Yes
007 | SATA | Amazon |No, SATA = overdraw

Here is an image showing the different connectors. If yours shipped with a different source for power, you need to contact Amazon. I have 006 and 006c at home, neither are SATA.

I personally run the 006 + 2x EVGA Supernova 650w G1s on each of my Nvidia rigs. It supports 4x molex adapter on each PSU, plus has four 6+2-pins on each. This is enough to populate a full eight cards on an ASUS z270-P.

Great build, enjoy!

Just gonna slide this in here as I leave...:

https://www.amazon.com/EZDIY-Sleeved-Cable-Extension-Extra-Sleeved/dp/B074LJY8XS/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=black+sleeved+cable+extensions&qid=1562403559&s=gateway&sr=8-3

Your transformer and power inlet board should look like this
And you want it to look like this
Knowing how cheap manufacturers are, the wiring may be too short to run it to the 120 tap. If you have to replace the wire, use 16 or 18 gauge.
This is the power cord for the 106
Obviously take all safety precautions, don't do it while plugged in. Don't let bare wire touch anything else etc.

I would recommend getting a 3 or 4 pin fan splitter, depending on your mobos header. Running up to 3 fans on a single header is always possible.

e.g.:
http://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-TX3-Power-Splitter-Cable/dp/B000E9ZQBU/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1420223634&sr=8-4&keywords=3+pin+fan+splitter

Other than that there are connectors for your PSU to split a molex connector to 3 pin headers, some of them have build in resistors to reduce the fan speed.

e.g.:

http://www.amazon.com/Phobya-4-Pin-Molex-Connector-Connection/dp/B004CLDSRU/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1420223698&sr=8-2&keywords=molex+to+3+pin

With built in resistors:

http://www.amazon.com/BitFenix-Alchemy-Multisleeve-Triple-Adapter/dp/B00HVBOUQG/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1420223658&sr=8-2&keywords=molex+to+7v

http://www.amazon.com/Zalman-ZM-MC1-Multi-connector-Add-Fan/dp/B000FAKUE6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1420223739&sr=8-1&keywords=molex+to+3+pin

The motherboards in these HP machines do not allow any overclocking whatsoever. Therefore I would recommend getting a higher base clock CPU such as the X5675. (Clockspeed is king when it comes to gaming).

RX480 will pair nicely and should achieve 60+ fps in any game. I don't recall which GPU power connectors the Z400 has, I think you may need an adapter like this to power it.

AFAIK the Z400 only supports ECC (error correcting) RAM, and will not work with regular DDR3. Also, if you're adding to the currently installed RAM you'll need to match memory types, e.g. PC3-10600E, PC3-10600R. You can't mix 'E' and 'R' DIMMs, and if you mix different speeds then the RAM will all be downclocked to the lowest speed. You may need order different RAM if you weren't taking this into account, but luckily DDR3 ECC is cheaper than non-ECC.

Ah, okay. In my experience it's a standard size. There are some two-prong power cables that are a different size (like this), but yours like like they are the same.

yeap, but for long term you can just hook up there some cables lead them to some comfortable place and then pretend you are boosting the car when you put the together... or get some $2.5 power switch

Np, you could also throw in a few bucks for a small switch to make it easier in the long run, something like http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B009CWY8PA/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?qid=1394582791&sr=8-2

You just want a splitter? Those are pretty common. Then you can use an extension if you need more length. Are you sure you want to split 6 to dual 8? I wouldnt think a single 6 would provide enough power for whatever needs dual 8s. What is the application?

Install something like this https://www.amazon.com/Legrand-Wiremold-Wall-Management-PowerConnect/dp/B006K3CM4S/ref=mp_s_a_1_7?keywords=in+wall+cable+management+kit&qid=1573651157&sprefix=in+wall+&sr=8-7 .. I've put that in a few places and it's pretty straight forward and includes everything you need except a drill.

Here's the Amazon link: https://www.amazon.com/Printer-Different-Lexmark-Brother-Epson/dp/B004HJ6V1W/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1472739618&sr=8-1&keywords=two+prong+power+cord
Hope it helps!

Thank you! That is perfect for the power. Along with this cable? I'm in the UK, that's why the UK plug.

Amazon? This one in particular.

If you want better help you'll need to give a model for the amp and confirm the country you live in.

you can use it with a good USB charger and an adapter like https://www.amazon.com/Generic-Barrel-Power-Cable-53832/dp/B00304DZ7I - I recommend using basically any charger that came with your phone, as those are usually quality. The cheap ones in the jars at checkout counters at drug stores and convenience stores are not quality.

If you buy a power supply that isn't USB, I really don't recommend cheap no-name brands. Get one from an electronics supply company... www.mouser.com or www.jameco.com are good choices.

5.5mm x 2.1mm is the most common connector size and most modern supplies are center positive.

You can go higher in current (because it will only draw what it needs - current is a maximum capability for a constant-voltage power supply which is what we are talking about here) but not in voltage. (Constant-current power supplies also exist, but those are not general-purpose items.)

you can buy fan splitters like those

https://www.amazon.com/Splitter-Computer-Extension-Converter-TeamProfitcom/dp/B07R7ZB8HD/

i bought severql of those for my mini itx builds.

core v1 and v21 i made builds before.

try to keep the amount of fans connected to a single fan header less than 3.

I'm a home theater installer myself (not a licensed electrician, just a DIY electrician) but yeah that violates NFPA/NEC

Correct way of doing things would have been using something like this or hire an electrician to have them place an outlet behind the tv.

The guy you got was a hack for sure alright

Can't promise it'll work, but sure looks like an IEC C9 plug.

Just a quick question before I order the part, but I ordered this PSU from case king https://www.caseking.de/bitfenix-whisper-m-80-plus-gold-netzteil-modular-450-watt-nebf-008.html without realising that it would ship with a eu power cord. I assume it is fine to just order a uk cord like this https://www.amazon.co.uk/StarTech-com-PXT101UK-Standard-Computer-Power/product-reviews/B000LXIP3U/ref=cm_cr_dp_d_hist_1?ie=UTF8&filterByStar=one_star&reviewerType=all_reviews#reviews-filter-bar but I just want to double check first

Get a 4-way fan splitter cable: https://www.amazon.com/TeamProfitcom-Splitter-Computer-Extension-Converter/dp/B07R7ZB8HD/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?keywords=pwm+fan+splitter&qid=1562339298&s=gateway&sr=8-2-spons&psc=1

You can safely run up to 5 PWM (4 pin) fans off a single header.

What about these USB to barrel jack plugs: http://www.amazon.com/Generic-Volt-Barrel-Power-Cable/dp/B00304DZ7I

Are they powerful enough? Thanks again.

Looks like that unit uses a pretty standard power cord. This should work.

http://www.amazon.com/standard-compatible-Replacement-Electronic-Figure-8/dp/B0058FN6V2/

Used one for a friend's build and it's still running fine and the Newegg + Amazon review average's very positive.

Wow, didn't notice that.

This one should be fine right?:
http://www.amazon.co.uk/XFX-Edition-Bronze-Semi-Modular-Supply/dp/B008O50WGA

SeaSonic built.

EDIT: Right, it should have more wattage for SLI. So looking for that SeaSonic that was mentioned earlier.

So /u/Excal2 just an update. I bought https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07R7ZB8HD/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 yesterday to hook up my fans to the mobo. just got it in and went and hooked it up and found that the RGB control and power to the lights are separate from the power to the fans. So I was able to use that harness to hook the 3 fans to the mobo and then power the RGB part seperatly. Thanks again for your help.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00213KDQK?ie=UTF8&at=&force-full-site=1&ref_=aw_bottom_links

I'm pretty sure this is what I bought. It comes with a power switch, reset switch, power LED, reset LED and an HDD LED.

The main issue with these is that they have wall socket connections instead of a power supply connection that could be used inside your case. Thankfully, something like a Molex to 12v DC adapter is pretty easily available.

I imagine you should be able to connect the two strips together, but even if you can just get two molex's to 12v adapters and run the two separate LED controllers.

Hey! :)

1. I believe Singapore uses Type G Plugs? so you could get something like this adapter, or this cable that would just swap and plug into the Cintiqs original power brick.
   
2. The Warranty is not transferable, but I don't believe there is any Repair location near Singapore, so you would have to ship it internationally either way. So your option would be to ship it to the states, then bounce it to Wacom.

Yeah that power supply is over priced. http://www.amazon.com/XFX-Edition-Modular-Certified-P1750XXXB9/dp/B008O50WGA theres a good sale.

u can buy something like this but make sure the pin on the motherboard is 12v.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07R7ZB8HD/ref=sspa_dk_detail_7?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B07R7ZB8HD&pd_rd_w=Ns1He&pf_rd_p=8a8f3917-7900-4ce8-ad90-adf0d53c0985&pd_rd_wg=aqfFC&pf_rd_r=PYW4A3T82C9Q0NB26GCC&pd_rd_r=ee07b72c-a84a-11e9-888e-11c74a3a8f49

Looks like C9/C10. C9 is the plug that fits that, C10 is the female part in the picture.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/IEC_60320#Appliance_couplers

So assuming you are in US, something like this?

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000068OA6

It looks like an IEC C-10 plug, which would use a C-9 cable. If in the US, something like: https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-PWC-178-NEMA-1-15P-Power/dp/B000068OA6

Hi there,
You can buy new power switches on amazon for $3 http://www.amazon.com/HDE-Motherboard-Computer-Switch-Button/dp/B009CWY8PA/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1414758594&sr=1-1&keywords=power+button+pc

Hope that helped!

I have 3 different types, one of which seems to be about the same as the first one you linked.
The second type is similar, but in red, and the third is the exact ones your second link points to.
I'm not sure why our experiences would differ like this, though there is probably a good bit of variation between superficially similar risers.
I'll do some more fiddling with my rig that uses the first type of riser. I don't think it'll change much, because I've always tried to use the VGA power cords when possible, exactly because I have been concerned about overloading SATA connectors.

Looks good but if you’re not renting I would spend the $40 and completely hide the cables in the wall. Using a kit like this one makes it look that much cleaner.

Cheers, I've found one on Amazon.
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Replacement-Power-Button-Switch-Computer/dp/B008LT2Q6I/

Yeah, you will need something like this http://www.amazon.co.uk/Replacement-Power-Button-Switch-Computer/dp/B008LT2Q6I/ref=sr_1_2?s=computers&ie=UTF8&qid=1396193869&sr=1-2&keywords=motherboard+power+switch

Since you will need something to initiate the start-up sequence. Your motherboard users manual will tell you where to put it.

In an absolute pinch, as in you don't have the original duckhead or a duckhead from an iPad or other power adapter, and you can't get out of the house or wait any longer...

You could look through your existing electronics... old VCR, DVD player, stereo, etc... and find a standard power cable. One like this.

I would highly advise against this long term, especially in public, because it will make you look like a neo maxi zoom dweebie.

You're gonna need a fan splitter since that Mobo only comes with 2 - 4 pin fan connecters.

Ram doesn't have any fans to sync with, and you can control your pcs fan speeds from the bios, though if you use a splitter I believe they are all going to have to be set to the same speed.

When using pcie risers that have the 6 pin power slot like these, what are my options for powering them? I've been told to avoid using the SATA adapter that they come with. Thanks in advance.

I'd rather use a cable like this: https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-PXT101UK-Standard-Computer-Power/dp/B000LXIP3U/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1505109430&sr=1-3&keywords=uk+power+cable

Though the adapter you linked is rated for 13A /250V, which is plenty enough for any computer. It should be safe to use yes.

If you need it for short term use, get the adapter, it can come in handy for other devices too, but if you will use it forever and only with the PC, just get the cable.

You should buy one of these if you're not getting Kinect, you still won't have voice commands but you'll be able to use smart glass to control your tv http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001DF7EC8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Alternatively you could try this:
http://www.amazon.com/Generic-Volt-Barrel-Power-Cable/dp/B00304DZ7I/ref=pd_bxgy_e_img_y

I am planning on giving this a try, I want build something portable as well.

xbox support page

Then

just a quick search on amazon.

They sell kits that let you do it yourself.

"Simple installation: Do-it-yourself kit allows for neat and easy installation in under 30 minutes with no electrician or hard wiring involved."

its a usb to 5mm Dc coaxial power connector.

$1.95 w free shipping on Amazon

What kind of printer is it? If it's the kind that doesn't have a power brick built in to the power cord, you can pick up a replacement pretty cheaply at MicroCenter

Alternatively:

• https://smile.amazon.com/Printer-Different-Lexmark-Brother-Epson/dp/B004HJ6V1W
  
• https://smile.amazon.com/C2G-Universal-Power-5-15P-IEC320C13/dp/B00005113L

Or maybe just buy a smaller ac to DC converter, maybe one that is USB into a wall wart

Something like [this] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00304DZ7I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_E1KPAbF1BXK4G) + something like this low profile plug (except obviously one for your country)

I should use the more proper term, IR emitter. Here is an example, the Xbox supports cables with up to 3 emitters. Plug it into the back of the Xbox, place the other end in front of the IR receiver on the device you want to control. It works along side the Kinect or without the Kinect.

Yes all current cards are 16x. That’s why you get some of these

The Kinect has great features, but it is not essential for use with TV. An IR extender is a much cheaper alternative for controlling your TV and cable box.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001DF7EC8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I take it that it's the usual DIY Rift screen? You may be able to power as the screen's datasheet says IIRC 3.3v to 12v. You could use something like this.

Should work, you'd just need a molex plug to 5.5mm barrel adapter like this https://www.amazon.com/4-Pin-Molex-Connector-5-5mm-2-1mm/dp/B0121QHR2E or make your own.

If the case was from a pre-built pc, like an HP, Dell, or emachine or any others, than it likely has proprietary pins for most connectors. Actually, looking at the connectors I am pretty positive it is proprietary.

Unless the memory card reader uses some usb pinout then there will be no compatibility there. It's hard to tell from the pic but it looks like there is too many pins (though it may still work). It probably is usb and would likely work if it can be connected to a usb pinout on the new board.

The power button should be 2 wires. I would bet that 2 of the wires on the suspected power button connector belong to the power switch and the rest are for something else like leds. You could take the button out and verify this by tracing the wires back.

A crude test would be to connect the 2 outside pins of the long connector to the power switch pins on the mobo and test the power button. It is rare for even proprietary mobo pins to use something other than a 2 pins for the power switch.

You could also install a different switch on the case that has only the power switch pins. Like this

Hole in the wall and drop the cable down. Then put a wall grommet near your outlet.

Or one of the cable hiding plastic pieces, legrand makes a good one but make sure you use vinegar to remove them or else they’ll pull the paper off the drywall which Is a pain to fix.

Legrand


Wall grommet

Edit: forgot to mention that if you’re putting a power cable in the wall you’ll need a different cable to actually run through the wall to keep it in code as it is a potential fire hazard. Here is a good kit that would fit for this example

I have this setup with a GTX 1070. You just need to have PSU and you can put any card you want in.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009AZSN14/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0121QHR2E/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Buy these so you can power the barrel plug on the akitio thunder3 pcb with your PSU

Implying Amazon wouldn't have a a Rebate on the exact same power supply

Hypocrite much?

Here's a better kit you can show him and explain to him what it is and how it works.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006K3CM4S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_uinPCb978NC1B

​

As you can see here, https://i.imgur.com/UvMSba9.png there are two "ends" of the in-wall kit, the male receptacle and the female receptacle.

The "cable" that runs between each of the receptacles can't be anything but romex because its within the wall.

However this kit, isn't pushing anymore over 15amp as its just a power cord for a single device, you're not running multiple devices off of the run, just the projector is running off of the run.

Just because the outlet that the kit plugs into is a 20amp circuit / outlet, doesn't mean the whole kit also has to be 20amp.

Well shit, I ordered there https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06Y239M26/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s03?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Anyone know of a better option?

Edit: according to that bot's message, I can use these risers as long as I just connector a molex right up to the riser instead of that sata:molex converter?

Consider buying one off Monoprice, they're cheap but decent quality.

AFAIK, there may be signal/power loss for cables longer than 6? ft. Might be better off getting a 2 prong power extension cable.

You could splice in some ~20 gauge wire to extend the wire you have. You could also just add another power switch in a place where it can reach:

https://www.amazon.com/HDE-Power-Button-Computer-Switch/dp/B009CWY8PA

That's actually really legit as far as mining rig power buttons go. The one for my rig is something like this

OP pls get this or something similar.
You're living life on the edge.

I got this thing

Cut two holes in the drywall. One behind the TV, the other in a hideable place near an outlet. Everything runs in the wall. I can add or remove wires any time I want. Literally nothing to see.

Mine came with a US compatible IEC cable. The power brick is international, so you would just need the appropriate cable for your country. This is the same type of cable for reference. 2 prong power cable

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006K3CM4S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_kpNzDbMBP9B4V

Use this for hiding the cables. But you’ll need to take the TV down

You need a bracket https://www.amazon.com/SilverStone-Technology-Supply-Adapter-PP08B-USA/dp/B07PP4C3CY

And probably some extension cables https://www.amazon.com/Clovertale-Sleeved-Cable-connectors-White/dp/B078WQWVJZ

http://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-Replacement-Power-Reset-BEZELWRKIT/dp/B00213KDQK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1396216587&sr=8-1&keywords=power+reset+led+wire+kit

C2G / Cables To Go 40432 Single Infrared (IR) Emitter - 10 Feet https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001DF7EC8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_5s6Yxb3YPKJ6T

Reviews seem to show that it works with the Xbox. Any ideas?

You will either have one of the following three cables as normally used by Dell (Or any other Vendor for that matter):
first, normal Powercord
second, looking similar to eyes
third, Mickey Mouse

From what I can tell you need your cable to be longer. I think this is something what you're looking for https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073M4643C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_3MY7BbKN8CN3Z

https://www.amazon.com/HDE-Power-Button-Computer-Switch-x/dp/B009CWY8PA

Same thing will work for reset.

Get a USB 3 header for USB.

This is the cord. It's an IEC C9.

It's a polarized NEMA 1-15P to IEC320C7 power cord/connector.

Amazon

https://www.amazon.com/EZDIY-Sleeved-Cable-Extension-Extra-Sleeved/dp/B074LJY8XS/ref=mp_s_a_1_fkmr2_1?keywords=EZDIY+Sleeved+Cable+-+Cable+Extension+for+Power+Supply+with+Extra-Sleeved+24-&qid=1559261592&s=gateway&sr=8-1-fkmr2

Amazon

Or, you should be able to find them in any old PC that is being thrown out. Then just connect your switch into the wire.

I see. Have you looked into cable extensions?

You can buy a 12v to molex adaptor, it's probably a lot cheap on Aliexpress.
https://www.amazon.com/4-Pin-Molex-Connector-5-5mm-2-1mm/dp/B0121QHR2E

Yup, your basic two prong polarized power cord.

http://www.amazon.com/Speed-Reduce-Power-Adapter-Desktop/dp/B007PPHLCS

https://www.amazon.com/RiteAV-2-Slot-Polarized-Power-IEC320C7/dp/B0017UCTX8/ref=pd_lpo_23_lp_img_4?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=T24XBCTXJ7NCE57Z9BH7

you can do it through the motherboard or buy these:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B007PPHLCS?pc_redir=1409930902&robot_redir=1

do you need a silent (0db) or quiet (sub 20 db) computer?

http://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B00213KDQK/ref=olp_tab_used?ie=UTF8&condition=used

I put a hole in the wall behind the TV and installed this

Hosa Cable 2-Wire Un-Grounded Power Cable - 8 Foot

http://www.amazon.com/HDE-Motherboard-Computer-Switch-Button/dp/B009CWY8PA/ref=pd_cp_pc_0

probably cheaper options out there if you buy in bulk. I personally don't trust myself to poke around with a bent paperclip.

Check the front panel connections, if it's a broken power wire from the front panel, that can easily be replaced. http://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-Replacement-Power-Reset-BEZELWRKIT/dp/B00213KDQK/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1310017923&sr=8-2
Your 20+4 (the big one) could be a little unseated. The switch on the back of the PSU could be off.

Does your case not come with buttons?

I don't get why people do his when buttons and stuff are cheap or even cheaper. I keep a set around for testing motherboards and they're great.

GTX 1070, 3 drives, but no buttons?

It's powered by a DC barrel connector that draws 5v / 3A. If you have wall outlet that can supply 3A, which I doubt this board actually needs 3A, you can use one of these:

https://www.amazon.com/Generic-Volt-Barrel-Power-Cable/dp/B00304DZ7I

I cut a few holes in the walls to run the cables and power.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006K3CM4S/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Run this on the back of the "desk"
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07B7JF74H/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1

And because I couldn't run cable from left to right behind the wall because of studs I use this to at least control the wires on the wall.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01JKO8724/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Here are the extensions I bought: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078WQWVJZ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_D-BRBbJ7WXPNX. I've never used PSU extensions before, but I've had no issues so far. Really wanted white cables to match the theme of the case.

It's cheaper to buy the controller and RGB strip separately and use your own external power supply (most folks will have a bunch of these lying around), or get the strip and controller with a molex adapter or crimp your own molex adapter (you can crimp this to one of those 2-pin molex-to-fan adapters) so you can run it directly off your internal power supply.

You can get one of these bad boys

Legrand - Wiremold CMK70 Flat Screen TV Cord and Cable Power Kit, Recessed In-Wall Cable Management System with PowerConnect, White. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006K3CM4S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_kq1IBb3Y8ZCRB

Sure! The strip I bought came with a 5.5mm female barrel plug pre-attached, and requires 12 volts. The LED strip company sells 12v adapters, but I already had one from an old external hard drive, at least while I was testing out the LEDs.

A PSU's molex connector has 4 lines: 12v, ground, ground, and 5v (yellow black black red). I used an old molex to sata adapter that I had since stripped the sata connectors from (thanks Will Urbina and monoprice), and spliced it with this USB to barrel adapter (although I probably should have gotten this adapter had I known it existed).

There's also this switch in place so I can turn the lights off for bed or whatever. Unfortunately the cables come up to the accessory PCI bracket so I may cut a hole for it down low next to the PSU if I can find the courage to damage the case. Or just paint the bracket white like Lavins said. The switch has an LED, which is why there are 3 prongs, and the negative wire that comes off of that goes to the second ground wire on the molex adapter.

Let me know if you need more detail.