Reddit mentions: The best automotive electrical system relays

Well I must say, even if this isn't maybe exactly the subreddit for this question, it isn't the wrong one either. The community here is pretty bad by the look of it and most of the responses here don't seem to be from mechanics so much as "car guys" who fancy themselves pretty savvy not only on cars, but what looks/is good to do to your car. Well It is your car, so I am just gonna give you some straight answers. First, Yes you can easily utilize some of your factory wiring to activate the lights with the fog lights. The switch inside the car is very unlikely to actually directly power the fog lights, it should just send a 12v "signal" to a relay most likely in your engine bay fuse box which then completes a more direct circuit from your car's charging system. You can tap into either the signal wire in the dash or the output voltage from the relay, either one should be fine (output from the relay is preferable as it has more power available and the protection of the factory fuse, added current draw from the relay is negligible here) to activate the relay that you are going to need to add for the underglow lights. Next you need to select a relay and find a suitable mounting spot where you can easily wire to and from, and safely place it. This one is fine but any 12v relay should do the trick, you obviously don't need 30 amps but that won't hurt anything. You will need to run a fused (around 10a should be plenty) wire from either the positive battery terminal or the fuse box input wire to the input pin of the relay, mounting the fuse as near the source as possible. The output pin will go to the positive wire on the lights themselves. You simply connect your new wire that you tapped into the fog light wiring to the positive pin of the relay, and ground the negative so that you have a completed circuit when you energize the wire by turning on the fog lights. If you aren't comfortable setting this up on your own, get help, don't accidentally set your car on fire with bad wiring. I hope this helps.

1.

Which wires specifically? In general, I was planning on going for heat-shrink solder terminal connectors and crimp connectors.

One of the reasons I posted this is because there are quite a few connectors and I am still not entirely 100% sure what I need. Obviously when screwing something in to a screw terminal block, the ring crimp connectors. But when joining wires, I would prefer to use the heat-shrink-solder type, but there are also butts and blades (heh).

I bought this set of terminals, figured I'd need them anyways: Assorted crimp terminals

I am probably going to buy this set of solder terminals: Fancy solder terminals

I am pretty good at soldering (though usually circuit boards, not automotive wires, hence not entirely knowing what to do.) I have easy access to a heat gun as well.

2.

Well, both - the breaker goes on the battery, and it sets the maximum amperage for the entire new fuse block and everything attached to it. The fuses go for each individual circuit. I want to use just one fuse for each circuit, instead of having several different circuits sitting on the same fuse, largely for my own desire for neatness and debug-ability. I could have one main fuse instead of the main breaker, but I figure that they will serve the same function and I may as well go for the re-usable option.

I was going to go for this breaker: Fat breaker

That said, I bought this fuse kit, which includes up to a 35A fuse, which will be more than enough. I also bought this fuse holder, in case I decide to use one main fuse instead of one main breaker. (I figured I'd need both of these anyways for some project, may as well get them even if I don't use them right now.)

Fuse Kit

In-line Fuse Holder

---

In general, I think my system will basically look like this:

Battery 12V + Breaker = safe 12V

Save 12V + ignition 12V (do I need a fuse here?) + Relay = ignition-switched 12V

Ignition-hot 12V + Fuse Block + ATC/ATO Fuses = eight fused circuits

Fused circuits, obviously, feeding from above. I will probably add a 20A switch in line with high-power circuits, just in case, as an emergency switch.

Fused circuits will terminate at something like this Ground Bar.

 

What do you think of this proposed setup?

I do realize that it's kind of overkill for what I want.

But you can probably agree that overkill is better than your car burning down!

The switch, or more precisely the circuit board for the switch, came from here: http://www.mausberrycircuits.com/collections/frontpage
Pick the one that fits your needs. You'll also need an actual switch; I grabbed a momentary switch from Radio Shack. Again, pick one that fits your needs. You can use a momentary, slide, toggle, pushbutton... the Mausberry doesn't care. You'll also connect the Mausberry to 2 pins on the Pi and download s script from Mausberry that executes when the switch is flipped (thus the orderly shutdown). You know how the Pi's red light stays on when you shut it down via a command? The Mausberry completely shuts off the power to the Pi, so no more red light.
I've had the buck converter for a few years from another unfinished project. It accepts up to 30 volts input, and output is adjustable via a tiny screw. I have mine set to output 5.15v. It will output up to 3 amps. I remember it came from eBay via a slow boat from China, but I'm sure Amazon has the same thing. It doesn't have to be adjustable, as long as it outputs 5ish volts.
The relay I think came from Adafruit. It activates (closes the circuit) when one of the Pi's power pins (i think I used pin 1) is hot. So if the Pi is ON, the hub is ON and vice versa. When activated, it allows power to flow from the buck converter to the USB hub. The USB hub then powers the SDR's and the WiFi dongle.
The hub itself is a cheap unpowered hub from the radio shack clearance rack. I stripped it down to the bare board and soldered wires to the pos and neg to make it powered.
I wanted a hub so I could offload the peripheral's power requirements from the Pi to the buck converter. I just don't think the Pi really likes pushing that much power to its peripherals.
The GPS/AHRS gets power via the Pi's pins as per the normal connection, but I had considered powering it from the relay.
The reason I went to this length for the power is because in the beginning, it was hard for me to find a 5v power source that could provide the necessary power via a USB cable. Either the portable battery was lacking, or the cable was lacking, or the 12v USB adapter was lacking. So the obvious solution to me was to accept ship's power (12v-24v) and convert it to 5v myself. From there it was an easy decision to split out the power and ease the strain on the Pi. I have 12v power easily available in the Mooney and I have the portable 12v ammo box (in the pictures) when I fly in other planes, so in my situation a solid 12v source made better sense than an iffy 5v source.

Caveat emptor: With this setup, you are no longer building a "cheap" ADS-B box, but rather a darn good, reliable one at a very reasonable price. And should something inside ever fail, it's a cheap matter of replacing the bad component rather than the whole setup. WIN! I am ever grateful to the software developers.

EDIT: here's a link to the relay: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009T2M012?ref_=cm_sw_r_awd_HYZBwb5RRB29

This looks like the Buck converter. Turn the tiny brass screw to adjust the output voltage: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00TMFKJ9Q?ref_=cm_sw_r_awd_Y4ZBwbC5J8VK9

I actually didn't tally up the cost as that wasn't really of a concern to me, but I'll try my best to provide links to the things I bought for this. Feel free to add it up for me!

• Lighting
  
  • T-5 Grow light (came with 6500K bulbs)
    
  • 2700K bulbs
    
  • Grow light hangers
    
• Grow medium
  
  • Net Cups
    
  • Black Buckets
    
  • Black lids
    
• Nutrients
  
  • General Hydroponics Flora Series
    
  • General Hydroponics pH control kit
    
  • pH/EC/Temp Meters
    
• Grow tent
  
• Air ventilation
  
  • The only thing I ended up using from this kit was the cheapest part, the ventilation duct...
    
  • The fan from this kit is way too powerful for my setup because my humidifier couldn't keep up
    
  • I didn't use the carbon filter because I'm not growing weed.
    
• Water Distiller
  
• Humidifier
  
  • The cheaper the humidifier, the better. I first bought (and destroyed) one that had some sort of digital switch, so it would always be in the off state when you first supply power to it, meaning you can't turn it on/off with just a relay.
    
• Plumbing
  
  • Aquatec 8852 booster pump
    
  • 2 Gallon accumulator tank
    
  • Pressure relief valve
    
  • Tubing
    
  • Inline Pre-filter (Sorry they must have taken the product down...)
    
  • Misting nozzle T's
    
  • Tube ball valves
    
  • Analog pressure gauge
    
  • Misting Nozzles
    
    • Note that these nozzles are meant for WAY higher pressure systems (~1000psi) and I actually had to take out the spring for them to operate correctly, but they never clogged up, are easy to clean, and worked perfectly for me!
      
• Electronics
  
  • Raspberry Pi 3 kit
    
  • Humidity sensor
    
  • Pressure sensor
    
  • Water solenoid valve
    
  • 5V 4-channel relay module
    
  • Analog-to-digital converter
    
  • 24V to 12V converter
    
  • 24V Power supply
    
  • Resistor kit
    
  • Semiconductor kit
    
  • Circuit boards
    
  • Standoffs
    
• Wiring
  
  • 22 gauge stranded wire
    
  • 22 gauge solid wire
    
  • Power supply cord
    
• Connectors
  
  • Electronic Connectors
    
    • JST-XHP Connectors
      
    • JST-SM Connectors
      
    • Dupont Connectors
      
  • Plumbing Connectors
    
    • Bulkhead connectors
      
    • Quick-connect kit
      
    • NPT to quick-connect connector
      
      I also bought various tools, like crimpers, Dremel kit, drill, etc, but I don't consider those to be project-specific as I'll have them for the foreseeable future. Let me know if there's anything you see that you think I missed!
      

Do you have a cable box or any other device that makes heat 24/7? If so, you might consider wiring up the fans to run 24/7. That's also the simplest way to wire them. Lower temperatures are good for electronic longevity. Fans wear out in a few years, but are cheap to replace compared to a PS4 or receiver.

If you want to trigger them off your receiver, that's pretty easy to do. Most likely your receiver can't power the fans directly (most 12V trigger outputs are 200-500mA output). Some receivers have a switched 120V outlet on the back, which makes this really easy, you just plug the fans in.

Fans can draw anywhere from 160mA (0.16A) to 600mA+ (0.6A)
The Antec fan you linked doesn't have a spec listed for power draw, but typically very quiet fans are below 300 mA.

If your total fan power draw (add together all fans) is less than 90% of the power your receiver can output, you can hook the fans up directly.

If your total power draw exceeds 90% of the rated output of your receiver, you need to use a relay to power the fans.

Here is a relay board that will work.

Here is the same thing but shipped free (probably from China, may be slow)

You'd also need a 12V power supply that provides enough current to run all your fans together.

Here are USB Fans - plug straight into PS4 or TV, and they turn on when the device powers up.

You could also use a 5V relay to control 12V fans from the PS4 usb if you wanted. Or use the TV's USB to trigger the fans whenever the TV is on.

Here is a plug and play thermally controlled fan setup

I'd plan on using both fans as exhaust on the top shelf. Just make air inlet holes in the bottom. Typically you want 30%-50% more inlet volume than outlet volume if you can get it. Remember all the cracks along the doors and edges will let air in as well. Making an air path across the front of the shelf by trimming is a fine idea.

So, step 1, decide when you need the cooling system to turn on - PS4, receiver, tv, 24/7, or other (such as temperature).
Then I can tell you how to use that device to turn it on.

I don't know about the Avalon specifically, but its possible in many cars. You'll have to exercise some Google-fu.

A whole bunch of factory head units, especially on nicer cars starting in the early 2000s, have aux inputs on the back of the unit. Before an aux input became a standard equipment expectation, it was often a dealer-installed option (i.e. plugging in and running an aux cable) or used to wire up a CD changer (which you can often unwire and replace with an aux in).

For instance, here's what I installed in my car: http://www.amazon.com/BMW-82-11-149-389/dp/B000PA00XM#productDetails. $36 on Amazon for OEM, or you can hunt around on eBay or other smaller sites and probably find an OEM one for $25 or a knock off for $15. Literally just plugs into the back of the unit, then you run it to wherever you want, but typically the glovebox is easiest.

Optionally, I also discretely mounted a small ~$40 bluetooth/A2DP receiver (this guy, much nicer than OP, gets power from the car and also doubles as a USB power plug) on the dash next to the stereo and ran its wire under the trim into the glovebox to connect to the 3.5mm aux. It works/sounds great and I mostly use the bluetooth since its nice to not have to fiddle with wires every time I get in/out of the car, but I can also unplug the bluetooth and plug straight in to the 3.5mm plug in the glovebox.

OK, here's an approach that should work and has worked for others:

Use a TP-Link HS100 Smart WiFi/Alexa-enabled plug driving an isolated relay, e.g.. https://amazon.com/Enclosed-AC-Protection-Bounce-Terminals/dp/B017743I7S/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1483241234&sr=8-2&keywords=120v+Relay+switch

Here is a quote from a reviewer who controlled a fireplace:

>Does exactly what it's supposed to. I used this with a TP-Link Smart Plug to allow me to use my Amazon Echo turn my gas fireplace on and off. The project took literally 5 minutes to hook up and works great. If I were going to pick any nit, I wish they had a version with a solid state relay so it doesn't "click" on and off, but that's really minor, and for this price, it can't be beat.Does exactly what it's supposed to. I used this with a TP-Link Smart Plug to allow me to use my Amazon Echo turn my gas fireplace on and off. The project took literally 5 minutes to hook up and works great. If I were going to pick any nit, I wish they had a version with a solid state relay so it doesn't "click" on and off, but that's really minor, and for this price, it can't be beat.

Setup the smart plug at an AC outlet close to the FP. Then plug the AC cord that comes with the relay module into the smart plug. The two wires that control the FP connect to the Gnd and NO contacts of the relay. Those two wires are very low voltage and current ("Millivolt circuit") that turn on the fire when connected. They should never contact a 120V circuit, which is why you need the isolated relay module.

So, here it goes, feel free to PM if I leave anything unclear.

Sorry if I was unclear....you need to have the Pi first and then building an outlet or switch is pretty cheap. The Pi and other stuff (case, sd card, powersupply) will total out to about $50 but is completely worth it because of all the other stuff you can do with them (media server, web server, whole home ad blocking, game emulation, etc)

Ill start with how to get the pi to control things and then explain how to get the echo to control the pi...

If you only want to control led strip lighting IIRC a lot of them have IR remotes and the simplest solution is probably to build an IR blaster (you will need a couple basic electronic components but cost is less than $10 even if you buy from a radioshack), and then use LIRC (http://www.lirc.org/) to emulate the remote with the Pi. The added bonus is you can then control any other IR remote device (you tv, stereo etc).

If you don't go the IR route you will use a relay to act as a switch. I have used a number of these guys for various projects: relay The basics of a relay is a small voltage opens and closes a magnetic switch that is controlling a much larger voltage. So the 3.3 volts a "general purpose input/output" (GPIO) pin a raspberry pi generates can open or close the other side of the relay that can handle household voltage. I should add the caution..."don't mess with household voltage unless you really know what you are doing you can burn down your house and kill yourself". Anyway the idea is you build a box (think electrical gang box from a home improvement store) where the power comes into the relay and then leaves onto an outlet that you want to control. I have built a couple that are the relay and outlet all in one retrofit outlet box all mounted into the wall (the relay is hidden behind the outlet it is controlling. Then you run some small gague wire (telephone 4 conductor wire works well) from the relay to the pi. The end result is the pi sends voltage on one line to the relay, the relay closes connecting the household voltage to the outlet and whatever is connected to the relay turns on. I usually include a inline 10amp fuze as well because the relays are only rated to 10A and all my breakers are 15A.

Anyway, now you have a raspberry pi that can turn an outlet on and off to tie to the echo you use a piece of software called HA-Bridge . It allows you pi to emulate a smart home device Alexa will recognize. Alexa sends on/off command to the emulated device and the pi can trigger a script to carry out your desired intent.

Right now I can walk into my basement and say "Echo, turn on the basement" Where basement is a group (grouped int he Alexa app) of several devices all emulated by the pi and the pi turns on the Tv and receiver with ir commands from LIRC, the lamps controlled by a relay turning on and off the power to a couple outlets and the Christmas Tree that is plugged into a single relay controlled outlet.

Hope this helps, it sounds like a ton of stuff but is very doable.

Well IMO you should use relays, since they pull a pretty damn decent amount of amps when they first fire up - so get familiar with them if you aren't already, and google bosch style relay wiring. It's pretty damn simple. You just wire to them, to a fused line to the battery, and then inside to a switch and switched power off ur fuse panel.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B017VDI0GY/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I made it all into a harness with both fans cuz I build deutsch harnesses all day, but really the wiring is pretty rudimentary.

I had to grind down the fan studs and chop up the efan shroud CONSIDERABLY (who knows what it's out of, snagged it off the ground at a jy). I found out later I had another stock xj fan sitting around, but I'm pretty sure even those would have slight clearance issues and would need a bit of a hack job, but it ain't hard at all.

What I can say for sure is that the stock clutch fan must be a MAJOR drag on the engine. When you see how much force it takes to spin one, you'll be shocked. My c1500's clutch fan setup is probably 1/2 the drag, if that.

If you have experience installing speakers in your car you could save some dough by doing them yourself but they’re not the easiest to install in the rear deck. You gotta remove a good amount of plastic to get to the two 6x9s and then there are two speakers in the rear seats as well that you need to remove the rear plastic. The front door speakers are easy but you gotta buy spacers for them. As far as brands go, for the head unit this Sony unit is awesome Sony XAVAX1000 6.2" (15.7 cm) Apple CarPlay Media Receiver with Bluetooth https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07JDFKQJ5/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_ZH9NDbN89V8BH and speakers Pioneer TS-G1620F 600 Watts Max Power 6-1/2" 2-Way G-Series Coaxial Full Range Car Audio Stereo Speakers https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00A0LZHYS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_fY9NDbGY26QS0 and rear speakers Pioneer TS-A6965R 6" x 9" 3-Way... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00A0LXRL8?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
And you’ll need these spacers Nissan / Infiniti 6.5 Inch Black... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007ZQVKYM?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share all for under $1000 bucks!

This is the polar opposite of SMD, but I thought I'd share my solution...

While I love DIY, smoke detectors are important. I wanted to interface with my home system but without compromising the integrity of the system.

Get a 120v first alert.
First Alert SA521CN Wireless Interconnected Hardwired Photoelectric Smoke Alarm with Battery Backup https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000EVO9D4

Get the smart relay interconnect.
BRK RM4 Smart Relay for First Alert https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0039PF21U
This includes schematic for wiring to the detector and the color codes for NO/NC relay connection.

~~Get an optocoupler or isolation relay. Mains Voltage! The output of the RM4 is 120V.
Enclosed AC/DC Power Relay with Protection & De-Bounce. Screw Terminals. 120V Trigger Input. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017743I7S
The RM4 output powers the relay. The screw terminals connect to the 8266.~~

Get a Esp8266; Flash tasmota firmware. Configure for switch and mqtt. Wire it up.
First Alert is now part of the matrix.

Quick update: Did not need the second relay/optocoupler. The BRK RM4 is an isolated relay. Their docs did not make that perfectly clear so I assumed worst case w/o testing it.

Ooh, that does look like a more simplified circuit.

Yeah, can't locate a suitable DPDT microswitch, and I don't think 2 SPDTs are thin enough to fit in the handle, so I'm liking that DPDT relay idea. Do you think an automotive one such as this would be suitable?

As for the selector switch, I've got a nice DPDT ON-OFF-ON rocker that I'm planning to use.


Thanks again for all of this excellent advice, I cannot easily express how much I appreciate it. (But stop helping strangers on the internet and get prepping for finals!! Also, good luck!)

After considering our discussion on this I can tell you for sure what I would do if I were in your situation. Since you already have a solar system in place and not starting from scratch you will need a DC-DC switching power supply to replace the AC inverter. I still have never seen one for sale that is suitable for mining so I would build my own to run a single ant s9 based on the design I have tested extensively running 2 ant s5. The design to run 2 s5 is pulling about 700 watts so we need to scale that up to do about 1400 watts. To get right to it these are the parts you'll need, I'll explain in a bit how it will need to be put together and how I came to this design in the first place. After I get all that out I will try to answer some of the other questions folks have about a fully stand alone system. For your needs you will only need the DC power supply/switch/regulator.

2 of these (note it's a 5 pack so you'll be getting 10 relays total. 8 will be used) about $28
https://www.amazon.com/Pack-EPAuto-Relay-Harness-Bosch/dp/B017VDI0GY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1468169603&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=12v+relay&psc=1

1 of these about $70
https://www.amazon.com/Tracer-Tracer1210RN-Charge-Controller-Regulator/dp/B008KWPGS6/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1468170133&sr=8-5&keywords=mppt+charge+controller

10 of these about $200
https://www.amazon.com/Nextrox-Converter-Regulator-Step-Down/dp/B00BWKXTUU/ref=sr_1_11?ie=UTF8&qid=1468169653&sr=8-11&keywords=12v+voltage+regulator

Those three items are an mppt charge controller that will be used to control the relays. The 12v relays which will allow you to safely control the power switching and voltage regulators to make sure the power stays clean so as not to damage your gear.

Here's how it goes together, note that all regulators and relays will be hooked in parallel to allow us to get to the desired total amperage;

• DC 12 volt power bus (battery main) gets hooked to the charge controller, powering it up in the 12v range.
  
• Negative bus lead connects to the regulator negative.
  -Positive bus lead connects to relay pass in
  
• Relay pass out 12v positive lead connects to regulator positive.
  
• Relay 'activate power' leads get connected to 'lamp controller' on charge controller.
  
• Regulator positive and negative out connect to miner power cables (pci-e)
  
  Once this is connected as such pressing the orange button on the charge controller front panel will activate the relays allowing power to flow to the regulators which will then even it out and pass it to a secondary bus which will then have the miner power cables hooked to it and power the miners.
  
  By using the lamp controller feature of the charge controller you get low voltage protection. If the batteries get low (even though sounds like you won't have much of a problem with that) the lamp controller will power down the relays and therefore stop the miners. It will automatically reconnect when the battery charge comes back up to safe level.
  
  The idea is to have all this in a box with cooling fans (12v dc case fans) and size it to power a single miner. This box of parts gives you about a 15% efficiency boost over using a big inverter. The cost of an inverter to do this is about $2000, my solution costs about $300, thus dramatically reducing total system costs and allowing a modular approach that will scale while limiting down time due to equipment failure.

It's not that big of a deal.. BUT, I don't know how much wiring experience you have..

Going on the assumption that it's a 300 watt LED bar... That's 25 amps or less of draw.

You need big enough wire to handle the current draw (25 amp+) and a fuse or circuit breaker and a relay. The 300 watt light will pull 25 amps at 12v so using 30 amp relay/fuse/breaker should be enough...

You will also need a switch BUT the switch is only going to be used to power on the relay and the relay will then "switch" the high current from the battery to the lights.

In simplest terms, you can wire it this way....

• Get a 40 amp Relay (30 amp should work too, but I like the 40 amp relay better). You can get them with a wire harness so you don't have to run the wires right "to" the relay. 40 amp relay / Relay harness
  
• 30 amp fuse/breaker near the battery. That wire runs through the fuse to pin 30 on the relay and this will be the source power line for the lights. Here is a 30 amp breaker you can find at your local auto parts store.. It is self resetting. [self resetting circuit breaker] (http://www.amazon.com/Camco-65224-Straight-Circuit-Automatic/dp/B002N59LCS)
  
• Pin 87 on the relay is the output of that power line above and you run it to the red wire on the LED bar (Don't forget to run the black wire on the LED to vehicle ground)
  
• pin 85 on the relay is run to ground on the vehicle.
  
• Pin 86 on the relay is the "trigger" wire for the relay. This wire is what will turn on the light when it gets power.
  
  The Easiest way to do this is tap into the fuse box (under the dash) and pull 12v from something that is "switched power". That means it has power when the key is on. Now, run that tapped wire to a switch and from the switch to the Pin 86.
  
  
  With that simple wiring above, when the key is in the on position, you have power going to the switch, when you flip the light switch the energizes the relay which takes the power from the battery and send it on the the light...
  
  Now, you need to use big enough wire. I'm going to assume you are going to need to run less than 10 feet of wire for the high power (the one on the big fuse). If so, 12 gauge will be fine. You can use 14 or even 16 gauge for the "switch" wire and the ground to the relay to save some money..
  
  hopefully all that made sense.. If you want, we can make the "switch" wiring fancier so you can have lights with the switch and/or with the high beams..

It's good but not great. My riding buddy says daylight visibility is ok, but to my eyes it seems a bit dim. That being said I've had several cops behind me and no issues to date.

Functionally it's been perfect except for having to redrill the plate mounting holes. As I'm sure you know it requires an LED compatible blinker relay. Another $7 Amazon purchase. Adjustable Blinker Relay

Future... I'll replace it with something brighter and more integrated. I've toyed with the thought of embedding it into a custom seat pan but it still won't be as bright as I'd like.

Just like /u/PanguTeam I have the same problem on my 2010 IV. I found what I thought was going to be a solution in a replacement antenna. Before making the purchase I looked up the instructions on how to install it and one of the steps mentioned a hookup for the antenna under the drivers seat. I looked and didn't see it there so I decided not to buy the kit. If I remember correctly there was someone on PriusChat.com that had posted a picture of the hookup under the seat in case you want to give it a shot. Here is the replacement plug that I had in my amazon wish list still: https://www.amazon.com/VAIS-Technology-FRA3M-Antenna-Adapter/dp/B00R59P0S6

The description says that it's compatible with up to 2013 head units but I'm sure there is something similar for 2015.
Good luck!

Don't do it! There's a better way! Go to Autozone. Buy this https://www.amazon.com/Dorman-59207-Throttle-Return-Spring/dp/B001HZKGCE

I used the single long skinny silver one. Hook one end around where the top of the clutch spring used to be and hook the other end on a hole in the metal bar above your clutch pedal. It barely adds to the resistance and more importantly, relieves that annoying snap right at your bite point. It feels almost the same as driving without any springs, but the clutch spring will ensure your pedal goes back up.

Only issue is you can hear a bit of the spring movement when you clutch in and out, but I got used to it after awhile.

EDIT: I see someone's already mentioned it. Oops. Anyway, the point about it being preferable to replacing the stock unit stands. You can't purchase that clutch spring without the entire OEM clutch set, and from what I've read, it's pretty easy to break that plastic piece, especially with the spring tension in the way, so I didn't play with mine at all.

I did this recently, too, and used the skinnier silver spring from this set to hold the pedal back up. Check out the picture on post 607 here- http://www.focusst.org/forum/focus-st-discussions/37372-does-focus-st-have-assistance-clutch-spring-61.html

Mine looks like that but I didn't find two springs necessary, just the skinnier one works fine. This way you don't have to deal with disassembling the stock spring holder, and you can return it to stock very easily. Pedal feels great, I should've done it day one.

I just put lights on my drive.

I used this on the front and this on the rear.

Since the motorcycle taillight has a circuit for both the tail light and brake light, I wired the tail light to the same switch as the head light. I bought an adjustable motorcycle led flasher and put the brake light on a second circuit and switch.

So, I ended up with a headlight/taillight combo on one switch, and a brighter, flashing taillight on the other switch. Both of these circuits are only active when the key is turned on. I am quite pleased with the outcome.

While I was in the dash, I also added a 12 volt power port for charging phones and my bluetooth speaker, which has a mount on the dash.

FYI, there is a factory power harness which has unused 12 volt power located behind the key switch.

I'll try to post pics when my phone is charged.

Feel free to ask any questions. I'm pretty familiar with the electrical on the drive now (mine is gas).

Edit: Here are some pics. Excuse the dirty cart. Believe it or not, that little cheapo light bar actually put out too much light. At first, it would light up a stop sign 150 yards down my street. I aimed it at the ground to keep from blinding oncoming traffic.

If your UPS can provide the signal (most can), you should definitely go for that.

Otherwise, I've used this successfully in the past: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B017743I7S/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Super easy, plug and play into the GPIO.

Nice work!

Looks like that mount could support a pretty hefty tarheel/screwdriver type antenna. Any reason you chose to to make a hinge mount over using a bracket that bolts to the spare tire carrier? Like this

Thanks! I'm in Los Angeles, only electronic components place I can think of is Fry's Electronics: www.frys.com

Would something like this work? https://www.amazon.com/SMAKN%C2%AE-SRD-12VDC-SL-C-Channel-Level-Module/dp/B00MMW0XWY/ref=pd_sim_60_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=VZ0TCJ9326VS28VJSDEJ

Thanks again for your help.

OK. Here is what you are dealing with:

1.(L) black. Line voltage load. Either 110v or 220v. Need to verify with a voltmeter.

2.(W/Y) orange. W=heating and Y=cooling. Used for a two pipe hydronic heating/cooling system. That means water.

3.(Y/A) yellow. Y = cooling. A = electrical heater output. Heat and cool active to any relay.

4.(G1) red. Low speed fan. Through a relay.

5.(GM) blue. Medium speed fan. Through a relay.

6.(GH) brown. High speed fan. Through a relay.

7.(N) white. Line voltage neutral. Either 110v or 220v. Need to verify with a voltmeter.

What is missing is the "C" and "R" wires. Nowhere is there a low voltage 24v load and common wire. Your current thermostat does not use it.

You have two options that I know of. Purchase a transformer to supply the 24v to your new thermostat. Or return the Honeywell and purchase a wifi enabled line voltage T-stat.

Transformers. Here are two that may work:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0037MXM1C/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A26RBB5XP2LWJC
For 240 volts

http://www.amazon.com/Honeywell-RC840T-120-Electromechanical-Relay-Built/dp/B00D5YLY2G/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1464560168&sr=8-1&keywords=Aube+RC840T-120
For 120 volts

Line voltage T-stat:
https://casaconnect.com/en/shop/smart-thermostat-caleo/

Note: Since you have hydronic heating and cooling, in addition to HVAC, either choice for the thermostat will likely mean that you will loose that option. I have not evaluated the new Honeywell or Casa to see if they support hybrid systems.

Just as an update and thanks for all the feedback.

I bought this: https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B017743I7S/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_image_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Hooked up the fireplace switch cables to the ON and the COMMON wire. Plugged it into the smart outlet and then to the wall. Works perfectly and it all fits under the fireplace with the rest of the controls.

What makes Nold interesting is the ability to control 2 doors as well as attach a magnetic sensor to let you know the open/close state. This is why I loved the WeMo Maker so much.

If you want an inexpensive garage door opener, use this with a WiFi outlet:

Enclosed AC/DC Power Relay with Protection & De-Bounce. Screw Terminals. 120V Trigge... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017743I7S/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_c_api_Zi7KBb1KYGJB2

I used this

Just use a basic Caseta on/off light switch to activate the relay. From the load side of switch just wire the neutral and hot to the relay and connect the millivolt wires to terminals that open/close as the relay functions.

That Caseta switch is used/classified as a plug in the Harmony app.

I have an activity called "Fireplace" that kicks it on. Set up that activity so that it doesn't mess with other activities that are running.

Just wish I had the ability to set a timer in Harmony to shut off the fireplace after X amount of time. Apparently you can't do that with light switches.

Thats spot on. I figured i was pretty lucky in that regard. Good on BMW to allow that to happen though. Here is the cable that i am using right now in my car. Not too pricy, and the install wasnt much of a hassle either.

I have done this. Worked just fine. I used a standard Wemo outlet (picked up recently from Amazon for <$20) connected to one of these $9 relays. I then used a piece of solid 18/2 to connect the relay to the fireplace switch terminals. One of the great things about the setup is that the original switch still works in case of an outage.

I'm planning on trying the same setup for my garage doors.

For the door speakers, you need a set of brackets. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007ZQVKYM/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 These worked perfect for me, as for the tweets, the component set I've installed is from "West Coast Customs" (Not overly happy with them, this is stated not as a recommendation, but as a "this works"), but their 1" tweets fit perfect with the stock tweeter bracket, no cutting or anything.

Yes, all amazon for the CB parts.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00603DSGO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I got the Cooltech mount for the Cobra 75WXST which is very cool.

http://www.cooltechllc.com/wrangler-parts-accessories/52-versamount.html

This guy on youtube had a good walkthrough on the install. But now I'm probably going to wire it up to my SPOD since I added that a while back.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oajh4Cd3_oY

If Fibaro's smart implant was available this is the perfect use case.
https://www.fibaro.com/us/products/smart-implant/

Since it's not available you can still use the Fibaro RGBW module over ZWave in Input/Output mode and control the DC circuit of the speaker.
☝️This is how I would implement it.

Another solution is use any ZWave/zigbee relay module and use a AC-DC Relay.
(https://www.amazon.com/Uxcell-a14051000ux0379-JQX-13F-Power-Relay/dp/B00NWHJ5N6/ref=pd_aw_sim_263_3?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00NWHJ5N6&pd_rd_r=beb5c684-2d9d-11e9-9da1-2f38c3bf93b4&pd_rd_w=HxKEf&pd_rd_wg=VItgd&pf_rd_p=469620d9-3e90-496d-9dc8-b19f900ba5fe&pf_rd_r=2TB1210HZWRKN4Z6NFBF&psc=1&refRID=2TB1210HZWRKN4Z6NFBF).

There is defiantly more than enough power to use automotive lighting. Let me phrase it like this. If you think about the typical power consumption of a tail light (mine is 40W at 12V), even with the addition of my headlights which are 18W a piece (supposedly) you’re only up to a total of 76W for the entire system. If we assume an inefficient driver we can round that up to 80W of additional power from your battery or a little over 1.5 A at 48V. Compare that to a 1000W motor running at half power (500W/48V= 10.4 A) so you’re adding a super small amount of constant draw (like 1/10 the normal drain) to have all you’re lights on all the time. Here are the parts I used:

Taillight: Greenclick 40W Motorcycle Tail... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072Q5MK75?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Headlights: Nilight Led Light Bar 2PCS 18W 4"... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IY3YLCI?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Converter: Kohree DC/DC Converter Regulator... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0756T983Q?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Blinker relay: AUDEW 2-Pin Electronic Turn... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B011BTMDQM?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Yes! That does make sense. I was looking on Amazon, and came across this relay. with the drawings, should be similar. Off with a positive trigger.

https://www.amazon.com/ONLINE-LED-STORE-Pack-Interlocking/dp/B01KVZ2MU4?ref_=fsclp_pl_dp_2

This: http://www.amazon.com/BMW-82-11-149-389/dp/B000PA00XM

Hook your iphone/ipod into the aux input.

You might need these: http://www.amazon.com/Leegoal-Panel-Dashboard-Dismantle-Installer/dp/B00D7XNQHG/ref=sr_1_3?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1452048112&sr=1-3&keywords=panel+removal+tool

And watch this for how to install it: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0qmXdnFdjwk

I found this job to be pretty easy. I installed in the back of pocket below the radio. I can tuck the wire away that way.

Everyone is right about the maintenance. Stay on top of it or it will get out of control.

i would use a plain old relay.

something like this and then like you said, heat if too low, fan if too high. i prefer digital temp probes like the ds18b20. It comes in a nice water proof package so you can spill beer (or wine?) on it without worry.

I’m using a Rugged Ridge antenna mount and a 2ft Firestik antenna on a medium spring. I would prefer 3ft, but I had the 2ft from my last vehicle and wanted to reuse. Like the setup on that.

I have a medium-ish sized CB radio, which is just too big to go anywhere in the cab. I would recommend going with the Cobra 75 radio that a lot of Jeepers use. Not easily stolen, doesn’t take up room.

The voltage is right, but we are worried about the current. The gpio pin is designed as a signal, which means very fast switching at nearly no current. The relay however does real work and needs current to do it. The transistor will act as the switch that turns the current on at the response of a signal voltage.

You can buy a relay package made for Arduino and Pi that have the transistor and flyback diode preattached, as well as some other protection and a led. I recommend you do that instead of making it yourself.

Edit: For example: https://www.amazon.com/MCIGICM-Channel-Raspberry-Optocoupler-Expansion/dp/B072BY3KJF This one also includes an optocoupler which is a very common and highly recommended safety feature to prevent any voltage spikes on the mains from getting in to the RPi.

I would think it's best to power the motors with a separate power supply from the Arduino power since the motors will draw a lot of current. Instead of powering the motors from the onboard 5v supply, run a separate supply through either a relay module or a motor controller board. Like these: relay, motor driver.

clinometer

Removed the radio and capped it with abs plastic, fit it with a usb charger and [four of these switches in different colors] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001GH1PU0/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1) using these housings

the switches got to [relays] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B017VDI0GY/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1) that are powered [by this fuse box] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00QMTAZ1W/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1) that is mounted to the top of the OEM fuse box under the hood.

Those power my OBHS and OBA. Other two switches not in use yet, hoping for rock lights/light bar some day maybe?

Removed the old fog light switch panel, replaced with abs plastic and volume control that goes to an amp that goes to a stereo jack that i just plug into my phone for music.

I'm not entirely sure if you it will work in a 2004 or not but I installed this bad boy amazon in my 2006 325ci about two years ago and it still works like a charm.

Yea of course! Relays are usually used to handle large voltage and current so 12v 2 amps is nothing. Something like this would be perfect
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B072BY3KJF#Ask

There are some tricks to using the rapaberry pi with the relay but its pretty simple

I used the same relay as /u/upnorth77 https://www.amazon.com/Enclosed-AC-Protection-Bounce-Terminals/dp/B017743I7S/ref=sr_1_10?ie=UTF8&qid=1503427639&sr=8-10&keywords=dry+contact+relay+120v and a TP Link smart switch https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0178IC734/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 . Pretty simple to hook up if you have a switch that turns your gas fireplace on/off.

You can get a relay like this and then connect the fan to the normally closed contacts on the relay, and the intermatic timer to the coil. And if you live somewhere with 220v then make sure to get a 220v coil version.

Thanks, you're right actually. Since my question is safety related, it's more than reasonable to be precise.

I meant this one

That relay is a nice looking device, good find. They also make a cheaper version, http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B017743I7S/ref=pd_aw_sim_23_of_6?ie=UTF8&dpID=51RYb%2Ba%2BayL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_SL500_SR100%2C64_&refRID=0HWM3SV21K3EEQT2B97X

Yes, basically any standard 2 wire banana plug turn signals will fit in the front and rear. You will also need to get an led flasher. I have these on my front. This flasher relay should work.

You want a relay that switches the 110v mains with a 24v signal like this:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00D5YLY2G/

Then you can use any of the normal smart thermostats (which switch on 24VAC).

This one (which I use) even provides the C wire (common) which the ecobee needs.

You are going to need to do a bit of research. You will need two additional things: something to read the temperature (one-wire type ones like DS18B20 are easy to use: https://www.amazon.com/SunFounder-DS18B20-Temperature-Arduino-Raspberry/dp/B013GB27HS/ref=sr_1_7 ) and a relay to turn on the heat lamp: https://www.amazon.com/MCIGICM-Channel-Raspberry-Optocoupler-Expansion/dp/B072BY3KJF/

The rest you can find on the internet, how to read the temperature, how to operate the relay, and then put them together.

Thank you :)

I used a simple 5v relay module, very similar to this one here: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00E0NTPP4

The one I'm using is very old, bought it years ago and I don't remember w here, but the one in the amazon link above is very close. In my video, I show the module starting at around 6:58 - https://youtu.be/1mtX4kB1EEA?t=418

You can also use a transistor for this. Pretty much any logic-level transistor will do, or any transistor that can be turned on with 5v of power. I'm working on another project to control an RGBW LED strip, for that I'm using transistors and the models I'm using are IRL2203 and IRLU024 MOSFETs.

Take a look at your radio model number and compare it to the model numbers in this thread about aux-enabled radios. If you have one that is aux compatible, getting [an aux adapter] (https://www.amazon.com/BMW-82-11-149-389/dp/B000PA00XM) and routing it to the front isn't too difficult - just pull out radio trim piece, radio, AC unit, sunglasses tray.

I ended up drilling a hole in the bottom of the center console panel (empty space next to the passenger heated seat button) and pulling the aux port there, since I found that was much easier to reach than the glovebox.

If your radio is not aux-compatible (they all have the port, just some don't have aux mode enabled), you could always go for the GROM or similar units (the £150 fancy adaptor that they were talking about), use an emulator, or you could splice into the CD player lines.

First this going to be removed as what to buy questions go in the meagthread sticked at the top of the feed. As for the fireplace, I don't recommend it when you're dealing with something that could set you house on fire. People do put switches on fire places here though. You can use any switch for the fan as all HomeKit switches support timers. Make a scene that turns the fan on. Set an automation for when the fan turns on turn on the scene. Make sure that the timer setting at the bottom is set to how long you want it on.

​

Edit: Found this on a forum.

>I was able to get this to work, though with a much different setup than I was initially envisioning.

>
>The fireplace I was working used a low-voltage switch on the wall with a 2-wire cable between that and the fireplace guts (below the firebox). It also has 2 outlets in that same area: one labeled REMOTE and one labeled FAN. As far as I know, both outlets are always on and the labels are just for fun.

>
>Here is what I did:
- Caseta plug-in lamp dimmer plugged into one of the outlets
- Set this dimmer to switch mode (no dimming) - see Caseta Advanced Installation Guide for details
- Plugged a 5V DC power adapter I had laying around into the dimmer
- Connected the output of the DC adapter to the input of a relay. I used the Sunfounder 2-channel 5V relay module
- Cut the cable that went to the wall switch and connected it to the output of the relay instead of the switch

>
>This solution does completely disable the wall switch but - in my case - it was in a crappy location anyway.

>
>Some other notes on this:

>
>- I got a 2-channel relay module since it was cheap and readily available but only one channel was needed
- I was a bit worried about the heat in the area with the electronics but I measured the temperature of the dimmer with one of those point-and-read thermometers after the fireplace was on for a while and it came up at 105. The specs for the Caseta say the operating temp tops at 104 but it's been running for over a month now and - so far so good.

​

Use something like Honeywell's Aube RC840T-120 and you can connect any low-voltage thermostat to control that fan.

5 Pack - EPAuto 30/40 AMP Relay Harness Spdt 12V Bosch Style https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017VDI0GY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_J6h7BbAHCG8Q8

Pins 85 & 86 go between your transformer and doorbell (doesn't matter which way it's wired). The sensor goes to pins 87 and 30.

Edit to add: any Bosch style relay like that will work. I bought the 5 pack because I was going to use them for my alarm system to convert normally-open flood sensors to normally-closed (which is the only kind of sensor my alarm system can read) but the switching voltage was too high (but ended up being perfect for the doorbell)

As others have said, a relay is what you need. I have this one. It's designed with the Arduino in mind and can switch a 250 VAC , 10 A load, which should be plenty for your coffee maker. As a bonus, the trigger current is only 5 mA, so you can plug it directly into a digital pin and have it work. To turn the relay on, use:

digitalWrite(<pin number>, HIGH)

To turn it off use:

digitalWrite(<pin number>, LOW)

It requires 3 connections: 5V, GND, and signal.

You can look in to these relay modules they are cheap and easy to use. As for your EM interference on you previous project. Did you switch the relay with an output of the Arduino ? Because relay's are using around 50mA when switched while an output can only provide 20mA. The Arduino resets as a result.

How to tell if you have DSP. You will need the BM53 radio to add auxiliary to have Bluetooth streaming. Buy used on eBay. For non-nav vehicles, the radio is located in the dash (with the amp in the trunk), beneath the little flip-up panel and behind the MID. It's pretty simple to upgrade. BMW sells an auxiliary input retrofit kit for the BM53 radio. Pair that with an aux->Bluetooth device that you can keep in the glovebox.

I'd just get a pack off Amazon like this, includes the harnesses too.

These are pretty cheap and get the job done.

If you want to make this work with an actual thermostat, you just need a 120v heating relay. That takes the 120v heat wires, and gives you a 24v thermostat connection for a smart thermostat.

So here's my project I've been working on for the past couple of weeks. I'm sure you can adapt this to a 2 motor lift setup (just add 4 more relays), or to another AC motor appliance. Here are the links for the key parts from Amazon:

Remote -$10.00
Relays -$7.00 x 4
Power Switch -$6.55
Box -$18.50

The whole thing came to about $75 and that's compared with $400 for a commercial one.

Edit: Added a short little video.

Edit 2: Correction to diagram

As long as the circuit is closed, does it matter how it got closed? Meaning, you can use any I/O module to complete the circuit and then hook up a Homekit switch to trigger the I/O module to close the circuit.

For instance, if you used something like this and connect one end to your fireplace (and I'm just using this module as an example as I don't know if it is compatible with your fireplace): https://www.amazon.com/Enclosed-AC-Protection-Bounce-Terminals/dp/B017743I7S/
and the other end to a Homekit switch or outlet. That should work, should it not ?

there are easier solutions but since this is DIY I recently put together a circuit using one of these
https://www.amazon.com/HiLetgo-Version-NodeMCU-Internet-Development/dp/B010O1G1ES/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1466965785&sr=8-1&keywords=nodemcu+v3

It's programmed via the arduino IDE and is simple enough with a bit of googling for any programmer to get working. I have it connected to one of these
https://www.amazon.com/SunFounder-Shield-Module-Arduino-Channel/dp/B00E0NTPP4/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1466965844&sr=8-4&keywords=arduino+relay

3 wires from the nodemcu to the relay. VCC, ground and one of the datapins. Just make sure you use the 5V pin for VCC as the 3.3V ones didn't work.

Then apply power to the relay and he nodemcu. I used an old 5V cellphone charger that I cut the plug off of and direct wired it to the boards. After that I made a short 6" extension cord and split one of the wires. It goes into the relay. After that it just works.

You will need a way to solder the wires and a breadboard lets you test before doing the final wiring.

I really wouldn't worry about relays failing. You aren't talking about tons of cycles or fast cycles, high amperage, or whatever. Using a SSR would be fine for sure, I made a PID to control a freezer ~10-15A draw using a 40A SSR that has run day and night for years without failure.
Here's one from amazon that I have used.

https://www.amazon.com/SunFounder-Channel-Optocoupler-Expansion-Raspberry/dp/B00E0NTPP4/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1494422744&sr=8-5&keywords=arduino+relay

You can use one of these with a cheap thermostat.

I personally have a relay tied into my smart house to control my basement baseboard heat.

If it requires line voltage control, it can be adapted using a relay- transformer like this one: Aube Technologies RC840T-120 Electromechanical Relay with Built In Relay https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00D5YLY2G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_WLZ3AbDVCCM0W

Buy a WeMo then power a relay like this to convert the Ac WeMo to a DC switch. I use this combo with smarthings to open my garage door.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B017743I7S/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1481691193&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=Enclosed+AC%2FDC+Power+Relay+with+Protection+%26+De-Bounce.+Screw+Terminals.+120V+Trigger+Input.

Got a handful here and there but mostly aesthetic mods. I've got:

Bully Fuel Controller by GMan

Kuryakyn Hypercharger

Integrated Tail Light

Electronic Flasher

[Switchback Turn Signals] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076GLLS3T?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share)

I have a few more on my list to-do but I broke my hand so I'm off the bike for another 3 weeks ),:

Ok well nice job deleting as much as you can it's very necessary on these bikes. Do you have a manual? I ha e a copy of a minimal wiring diagram I used on mine I can forward to you so you can trace your own wiring. Have you tested the LEDs? Most of these old bikes can't read a signal that small and need a relay (ex:AUDEW 2-Pin Electronic Turn Signal Flasher Relay Fix Motorcycle Turn Signal Hyper Flash https://www.amazon.com/dp/B011BTMDQM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_KmirzbTJDKYAQ)
With a 6.5 gallon tank it would be sad to only take advantage of 70 miles at a time.... Lol
Get yourself a Voltmeter and test the resistance on the ignition pack, THE STATOR (in case you were unaware... Stator is:the stationary portion of an electric generator. It's under the right side cover. Replacements are not easy to find...trust me...) you're actually at an advantage with no wiring on these bikes. The 80s Japanese bikes were notorious for tons of wiring for no reason.)

I don't know how proficient you are mechanically and I don't want to suggest something crazy and out of you're league... But look at this https://youtu.be/nFAnxpPOlnU

Wish I had a picture of when it was finished but I can't seem to find one... Here was my 80' xs850 http://i.imgur.com/TPY4UMy.jpg

Instead of a resistor you can replace the blinker module with an adjustable $4 one from amazon:



https://www.amazon.com/AUDEW-Electronic-Signal-Flasher-Motorcycle/dp/B011BTMDQM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1494862870&sr=8-1&keywords=Blinker+relay

You need to replace the flasher unit with a led one. I got mine on Amazon {https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B011BTMDQM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1}

Maybe I'm not quite following, but wouldn't you use something like this bulb:
https://www.amazon.com/BYB-Ceramic-Infrared-Emitter-Brooder/dp/B00HFNZ59Q

plugged into this to secure it:
https://www.amazon.com/Simple-Deluxe-Listed-Aluminum-Reflector/dp/B01E9IY6US

with one of the wires cut and running through this to switch it on and off:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00E0NTPP4

I am not sure if you are asking how to do this as well as if it's ok to do it but Check out this relay.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00E0NTPP4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I use it to trigger my Garage door from a Pi. It also works with an Arduino.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017743I7S/

This opens/closes a relay that you can wire into a contact sensor of some sort. Plug it into the clapper and you can do whatever automation you want with it. Normally use these on control4 systems, so not sure what zwave/zigbee/usb contact sensors are out there.

You can connect it to an AC relay.

I use mine to open and close my garage door.

Step 1. If it is the cheapie electric baseboard heat, you most likely have a 120v or 240v thermostat. Find out which.

Step 2. You'll need this for 240 (or if you can find one to mount in a switch box, that would be better): http://www.amazon.com/Aube-RC840T-240-Switching-Electric-Transformer/dp/B0037MXM1C/ref=pd_sim_60_1?ie=UTF8&dpID=31RasVuVDpL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=1K9Z0QT4F1AHDX7W166G

Or this for 120v: http://www.amazon.com/Honeywell-RC840T-120-Electromechanical-Relay-Built/dp/B00D5YLY2G/ref=pd_sim_60_4?ie=UTF8&dpID=41c-k5UMUgL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=1K9Z0QT4F1AHDX7W166G

Step 3. Use the above relay to hook up an Insteon Thermostat.

I used a reed switch connected to a GPIO port to detect if the door is open. I used Twilio to send me an SMS. I used a relay board (like this one) in parallel with the manual pushbutton to toggle the door. And I used Python to serve the site. Let me know if you have specific questions.

Sample relay or mosfet

Try new relay. Just switched mine and it worked. If it's 2 prong try this one:

AUDEW 2-Pin Electronic Turn Signal Flasher Relay Fix Motorcycle Turn Signal Hyper Flash https://www.amazon.com/dp/B011BTMDQM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_hl0KDbNXGA6KB

I use a Koogeek switch with this relay plugged in:

Enclosed AC/DC Power Relay with Protection & De-Bounce. Screw Terminals. 120V Trigger Input. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017743I7S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_xVgRzbR56SQAV

The relay senses the 120v and closes the circuit of the two wires from your fireplace. In my case the fireplace had an external thermostat connected to it. I took out the two wires from the thermostat switch and connected those two wires to the relay. Now when the relay senses current it closes the circuit of the fireplace switch but without adding any electricity to it.

If you are up to doing a bit of wiring you can put together a rig that will work.
To do so you need to get a powered relay. There may be some on Amazon. https://www.amazon.com/Enclosed-AC-Protection-Bounce-Terminals/dp/B017743I7S/ Maybe something similar to this one but maybe one that already has a 220 plug on it.
Then use a iDevices or iHome plug to power it.
If not sure about wiring get an electrician to handle it.
Not quite a standard way of doing it but it would work.

Personally, I would just go for the aux. Save yourself a ton of money, and don't worry about the bluetooth pairing. If you're dead set on bluetooth I apologize for not helping in that field. I don't know much pertaining to it.

Here is the aux kit: http://www.amazon.com/BMW-82-11-149-389/dp/B000PA00XM

Most simple relays I've used have 3 connections, allowing 2 choices - either NC or NO. Just wire it for what you need.
I can't help with ordering to CA - but this is one where you can see in the pic that you can wire it either way.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00E0NTPP4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_67eACbFK3XZPA

Those wires are going to be battery, flasher out, and ground. For standard filament bulbs, just buy a 2 prong standard mechanical relay and leave the ground disconnected. If you upgrade to LED bulbs, switching to a load independent relay (usually 3 prongs) will fix the fast blink issue.

In the 3 prong the coil side seeks ground for discharge through the additional ground, otherwise it has to discharge through the circuit. Because the load (resistance) is low with LED bulbs, the capacitor that controls the coil latch timing can discharge really fast and the flasher blinks fast or not at all. There are some electronic relays without a standard coil/cap that have a rheostat in them that allows you to adjust the discharge load. Those will be 2 prong - they discharge through the bulbs/circuit. The standard mechanical relays are available at any auto parts store.

Electronic solid state 2 prong with adjustable load:
https://www.amazon.com/AUDEW-Electronic-Signal-Flasher-Motorcycle/dp/B011BTMDQM/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1493815500&sr=8-4&keywords=electronic+flasher

Standard mechanical coil 2 prong:
https://www.amazon.com/Bussmann-NO-552-12-8-Thermal-Flasher/dp/B000GKAZCW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1493815609&sr=8-1&keywords=12v+flasher

3 prong with load independent grounded coil (my preferred type - these still need some load to function):
https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-Vehicle-Blinker-Flasher-0-02-20A/dp/B00BLZ9XQK/ref=pd_sbs_263_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00BLZ9XQK&pd_rd_r=B9EGDRDCQ81ZH9VWKT7A&pd_rd_w=SRsBN&pd_rd_wg=UBlTA&psc=1&refRID=B9EGDRDCQ81ZH9VWKT7A

I'm using one of THESE along with a MonoPrice garage door Z-Wave tilt sensor, and an old Z wave outlet I had laying around. Together, I built a template cover device out of it. The tilt sensor is the feedback and the open/close commands are scripts. Each open/close script basically turns on the Z wave switch (and therefore powers the relay), then turns it off after 3 seconds. I added conditions inside each script as well. For open, it ensures someone is home and the alarm is not on, otherwise it won't work. There is also a 30 second delay, then a condition that the door is actually open or close and a notification if the proper position is not met.

I can try to post the config later on if you want it. Don't have access to it right now.

I have a gas fireplace that was controlled by a switch on the wall. The switch was a low voltage switch that essentially just connected two wires together to turn on the fireplace and disconnected them to turn off the fireplace. The electronics that control the fireplace are behind a panel underneath the fireplace, and there is a decent amount of room and a power strip in there. I believe most gas fireplaces controlled by a switch on the wall have a similar setup.

So what I did was plugged in a Lutron Lamp smart switch (https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-Wireless-Lighting-PD-3PCL-WH-Assistant/dp/B00KHSXB60/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=lutron+lamp+dimmer&qid=1564055576&s=gateway&sprefix=lutron+lamp+&sr=8-3) to the power strip below the fireplace, and then I plugged in this AC/DC relay to that (https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B017743I7S?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title). What the relay does is just make a connection between its terminals whenever the outlet it’s plugged into (the Lutron Lamp switch in this case) is turned on. I then spliced the wires going to the switch on the wall and connected them to the relay. Then, the last step was to pair a Lutron Pico remote / switch (https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00KLAXOE8?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title) to the Lutron lamp switch, and then I replaced the switch on the wall with the Lutron Pico switch. Now I can turn the fireplace off and on from a switch on the wall still, but I can also control the fireplace from HomeKit, Google Home, Alexa, etc. I also set up some rules to automatically turn off the fireplace if it’s been on for 3 hours, and to notify me if it turns on and I’m not home. These are just in case we accidentally hit the button to turn it on while we’re in bed or away or whatever.

I'm still in the middle of adding a filament sensor to my OctoPrint setup so I may be missing something, but I think you should be able to use that plugin to achieve pausing a print when the power disappears. The 'Filament Sensor Reloaded' plugin just looks at a GPIO line that you select to determine if filament is present or missing and you can pause the print. If you connect the GPIO to a voltage from the same source as the printer, then you can detect the power removed from the printer and pause. A simple way to do that would be a USB power adapter with a voltage divider from 5V to 3.3V or you could use this power detector - https://www.amazon.com/Enclosed-AC-Protection-Bounce-Terminals/dp/B017743I7S/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1506368549&sr=8-6&keywords=iot+relay#Ask

For $9, I'd probably buy the power detector.

Like I said, I haven't experimented with OctoPrint pausing yet, but I would expect the same behavior as pressing the pause button.

Yes,
Two issues.
1.you need a digital flasher. I use these. AUDEW 2-Pin Electronic Turn Signal Flasher Relay Fix Motorcycle Turn Signal Hyper Flash https://www.amazon.com/dp/B011BTMDQM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_i_O4o4AbK3MZFNH
2.most Japanese MC’c back feed the dash indicator ( TS) from the signals themselves. The guaranteed and easy fix ( without all the resistors and janky wiring is to use one of these. Kuryakyn 4709 Diode Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000TK7XMY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_i_s7o4AbN8C7F71
Then get into your headlight bucket or under the dash. Find the turn signal wires and the indicator socket. Pull out the indicator bulb holder and cut the two wires going to it. Wire up the Diode. 1 red wire connects to each right and left positive wires. The blue wire goes to the center conductor ( wire you cut ) of the indicator bulb. The black wire connects to the other wire of the indicator bulb. The black wire goes to ground - any ground wire. The left over wire ( you cut ) from the original Indicator wire just gets taped / shrink wrapped over as it is no longer used.
This will fix everyone’s “LED lights don’t work, don’t flash, stay on” problems as long as the original lights worked. This is your fix. If you ever change back to stock. It still works with no changes. This works on every Japanese bike that doesn’t work correctly with LEDS. Some bikes you can get away with changing the indicator bulb for an LED as an led bulb is a diode, but this solution only works if they didn’t backfeed the Indicator light across the negative terminal ( outer side ) of the bulb.

This should work for your relays: http://www.amazon.com/SunFounder-Channel-Shield-Arduino-Raspberry/dp/B00E0NTPP4/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1449242914&sr=8-4&keywords=arduino+relay+board

It's "meant" for an Arduino, but should work with the Pi with a bit of work. It triggers on a 5v input from the Arduino, so you'd need to get the 3.3v line from the Pi's GPIO up to 5v to make it work.

You'll want to figure out the pinout of that plug with a voltmeter. I'm guessing that one of those is common and the other two are for separate banks of LEDs. To control these, you'd run the common straight through and interrupt the two banks with the relays.

As far as Pi vs Arduino, you'll have to do some tinkering either way. Neither have a RTC (real time clock) built in, so you'll either need an RTC shield or connect the Pi to a network connection so it can get the time via NTP. The Pi's main disadvantage is the 3.3v GPIO, while the Arduino's output is natively 5v.

Personally I'd use the Arduino and a cheap RTC: http://www.amazon.com/Donop-DS3231-AT24C32-precision-Arduino/dp/B00HCB7VYS/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1449243489&sr=8-2&keywords=arduino+rtc

I tinkered with two different methods, both of them use Gordon's WiringPi library to manipulate the GPIO. One of the setups uses a PowerSwitch Tail II to power off the entire machine and the other method used a simple relay to toggle the reset button. My preferred method was the firs method because it FORCED power off no matter how frozen the mobo was.

By the way - the close observer will notice that the PowerSwitch Tail is really just a relay enclosed in a box. I prefer to use it when handling 120V AC so I don't make shiny sparks.