Reddit mentions: The best switches & relays

Intro

This is an overview of how I made a roughly 60% scale AIM-9L Sidewinder floor lamp for my little brother's 9th birthday.

My wife and I didn't just want to get him yet another Lego set, so this is what we decided on after trying to think of something unique, somewhat useful, and relatively inexpensive. This project ended up grossly over-budget and took about 2 weeks of working in the evenings after my real job to put together. Most of that time was spent watching paint dry and figuring out how to make this thing look decent. This was definitely a labor of love, and I would have given up almost as soon as I started if I hadn't known that he was going to absolutely love it.

I got the idea from this website, but I did not purchase or follow their plans in any way. I pretty much just looked at the photos on their website and walked around the hardware store figuring how I could make somethig like this work. This being the case, I cannot in good conscience post the exact numbers, drawings, plans, or templates I made in the process of making this lamp. If you would like to build something like this but are uncomfortable with working these things out on your own, I encourage you to check out the website mentioned above.

I do feel comfortable sharing the reference images I found with simple google searches like this, so I compiled the images that I found most useful in this imgur album..

Overall, apologies for less than stellar photo quality, I have an infamous HTC M9 with a cracked lens cover and I would drastically improve the lighting in my shop area if I owned the space. I think most of the photos get the point across though...

Outline of the project gallery:

0. Overview

1. Materials
   
2. Cutting and joining fins
   
3. Wiring electrics
   
4. Painting (macro)
   
5. Painting (stencils)
   
6. Assembly
   
   Materials
   
   Item | Qty | Price | Link
   -----|-----|-------|-----
   3" PVC Pipe | 8' | $12 | Fleet Farm
   4" PVC Pipe | 4' | $8 | Fleet Farm
   3"-3" PVC In-line Coupler | 1 | $1.37 | Home Depot
   3" PVC Flush Drain Cover | 2 | $5.88 | Home Depot
   3" PVC Threaded Adapter | 1 | $3.43 | Home Depot
   Polycarbonate Neck Shade | 1 | $3.97 | Home Depot
   12' 2-Prong Extension Cord, Polarized | 1 | $5.96 | Home Depot
   Lamp Socket | 1 | $5.27 | Home Depot
   Socket Retaining Rings | 1 | $3.47 | Home Depot
   SPST 120V AC Switch | 1 | $3.04 | Fleet Farm
   Switch Safety Cover | 1 | $2.04 | Amazon (Cannibalized from a 10-pack of 12V Switches)
   Misc Spray Paint & Clear Coat | 3 | ~$10 | Fleet Farm
   Total Project Cost | |~$60 |
   
   Observations
   
   If I were to do something like this again, I would try to improve in the following areas:
   
   

• Be better at painting.
  
• Make sure the flat panels are totally flat, I had one with a rounded edge that made fitting the slots difficult.
  
• Seriously, I suck at painting.
  
• Drill switch mounting hole after painting stencils.
  
• Cut some slots in the front fins - inside the pipe - to wrap wire around for strain relief without wasting so much length of wire.
  
• Find a better way to cut the longitudinal slots for fitting the fins. You can see some gaps between the pipe and the fins.
  
• Find a better solution for the stencils. Not everybody has access to a CNC laser and mine didn't work all that great anyways.
  
• Different yellow paint for the front stripe.
  
  Conclusion
  
  Overall, I consider this project to be a success. It took him a second to figure out WTF is this thing, but after he got over that he absolutely loves it! I heard him say that he's going to put it by his desk and use it when he's building his model airplanes :)
  

Based off Inkbird ITC-106RL


Parts:

Controller: Inkbird ITC-106RL
This is 12v so it is easy to use with cheap computer fans and has a built in relay to make for less wiring. Can also be ran off of a battery. Downside of the built in relay is the life span is a little lower, but it is cheap enough and easy enough to replace that I will take the trade off.

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MS138DM


Power Supply: 12v. Can be a “wall wort” converter or hooked up to any 12v battery. I used an old power adaptor from an external power supply. Just make sure it is 12v output with at least 1 amp.

https://smile.amazon.com/Adapter-100-240V-Transformers-Switching-Adaptor/dp/B019Q3U72M/


Fan: At least 5 CFM needs to get to the drum, but keep in mind a lot will be lost going down a valve/pipe/elbow. With this controller it will run the fan as need to maintain the temp, so larger will be fine, but too large can cause problems. I did 80mm computer case fan (with LEDs) with a 3” to 1.5” ABS adaptor hacked up get it funneled into my box. I did this because I wanted the look of a big LED fan and a 80mm LED fan was cheap. I think a lot of the 32 CFM of the fan I used is being wasted with my setup with the funnel and riser pipe, and I am OK with that as I love the look. My 32 CFM fan is running about 30% of the time to maintain temp. I want to be able to glance from the house and see it light up. If you are just going for ease of build I would do 2 40mm fans screwed into the cover of the box. Then you don’t need to make the funnel/adaptor which was hard to make.

Mine: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B000S396YU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Easier:https://smile.amazon.com/2packs-0-15A-Brushless-Cooling-AB4010M12/dp/B01CZFUOD0


Temp Sensor: Any “K Type” sensor will do. The controller supports a ton of different types, but a K type is the easiest. I picked this one for the length of the sensor and the spring wire guard for having it on the side of the drum.

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00899A4LY/

This one looks great if you want to be able to remove it quickly.

K Type Adjustable Compression Spring Bayonet Sensor Thermocouple 5M https://www.amazon.com/dp/B018HX0DLM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_Ls-VzbD60N3WS

I plan on adding a clip using it on the grate as the sidewall is running about 50 degrees hotter than the air around the meat on the top grate. I think I wouldn't make this one my first choice if you going to have it on the grate because of the spring guard and size.

https://smile.amazon.com/BBQ-Butler-Meat-Thermometer-Probe/dp/B01AS23FHE/


Case: 2" Type LB PVC Conduit Body with a pvc plumbing reducer on the bottom to get down to 3/4” pipe thread that connects to my valve (kept so I can shut it down after cooking) and a solid plug on the back drilled out to allow for a wire connector. I didn't glue either of the plugs in so I could take it off the smoker easily and for future upgrades. The holes in the face of the case were cut with a hole saw and jigsaw.

https://www.menards.com/main/electrical/conduit-conduit-fittings-raceways/pvc-conduit-fittings/carlon-reg-2-type-lb-conduit-body/p-1444444974150-c-6424.htm

https://www.menards.com/main/plumbing/rough-plumbing/pipe-tubing-hoses-fittings-accessories/fittings/pvc-fittings/nibco-reg-2-plug-pvc-schedule-40/p-1444449168970-c-8557.htm

https://www.menards.com/main/plumbing/rough-plumbing/pipe-tubing-hoses-fittings-accessories/fittings/pvc-fittings/nibco-reg-2x3-4-spigot-x-female-pipe-thread-reducer-bushing-pvc-schedule-40/p-1444449164005-c-8557.htm

https://www.menards.com/main/electrical/conduit-conduit-fittings-raceways/metal-conduit-fittings/sigma-3-4-nm-connector-3-bag/p-1444430908358-c-9538.htm  


Wiring: Image from facebook.com/boganbbq

The ITC-106RL has the same wiring.



I didn’t add the switches as I am just plugging it in or unplugging it. I think I will add a switch for the fan in the future. https://smile.amazon.com/AutoEC-Rocker-Toggle-Switch-Control/dp/B012IJ35VQ/


I had to flip my probe wiring.


You may need to use a multimeter to figure out which wire is hot vs common coming from the power adaptor. Set your meter to 12v and touch the probes to the wires from the adaptor. If you get POSITIVE number close to twelve your positive/red probe is on the positive/”red” wire. If you get a NEGATIVE number on the multimeter you have them switched. I tested the adaptor on the fan first. My fan would not spin/light up with the wires switched.


My final wiring (not in the case):





Controller Settings:

The manual for the ITC-106 is bad. Luckily the IPC-16 is the same system and the manual is much better.

See: http://pmod79883.pic31.websiteonline.cn/upload/IPB-16UserManualA42.pdf


Press SET button for 3 seconds to enter into the main menu, there are Input Parameters, Output Parameters, Alarm Parameters, PID Parameters and Unit Parameters can be selected. Then press shift button to enter into the submenu if need to change the settings.


Here is what I changed to get it working. Everything else is left on the factory settings.


IP -> SC (Sensor Calibration) AS NEEDED. Once you have it running turn it on and put the sensor in the some boiling water. Use this setting to adjust as needed, keeping in mind water boils at different temps depending your elevation. I had to do a + 3.


PID -> CTL (Control Period) to 15 seconds. Basically, the system will check the temp every 15 seconds and then run the fan for the amount it guesses it will need to keep the temp correct. Lower time is more accurate temp, but on/off cycles for the relay, and it is only rated for 100,000 cycles. I think I will test this at 30 seconds and 60 seconds in the future. 15 worked well and had about a 1-2 degree swing. I am ok with more of swing if it means less wear and tear on the built in relay.


UNITS TO F if think in those terms.


In the future I will play with the autotune/self-tuning function and will add an update for that if I can figure it out and get noticeably better results.


You are done. Light your smoker, power up the controller and set your temp (you can hold the up and down buttons or use the select button and move the decimal point to change by 100s, 10s or 1s). Bottom number is your set point, top is the current temp.


I leave my 2nd valve open till 200 degrees to help the drum get to temp faster, then I closed it and let the controller do the rest, but you can start with just the fan open and walk away if you want. Exhaust open all the way. It ended up running the fan about 5 seconds on, 10 seconds off to maintain 225 degrees.

Check out the Work In Progress topic on /r/spaceonly. You can try your hand at processing the filtered images in that topic.

• Total exposure time : 23.5 hours
  
• Red zone for light pollution (this is a narrowband filtered image, so no fucks given)
  
• Orion ED80T CF
  
• Stock focuser replaced with MoonLiteFocuser + High Res Stepper Motor w/ MoonLite Mini V2 Controller
  
• Orion Atlas Pro EQ Mount
  
• STF-8300M CCD - FW5 -20c Temperature
  
• Astrodon 3nm HA - Here is a topic I made comparing the 3nm HA Astrodon filter to a 7nm HA Baader filter
  
• Orion Field Flattener for Short Refractors
  
• TheSkyX Pro with Camera-Addon for image acquisition and automation
  
• PemPro v2 for getting an accurate drift align (drift aligned explained here)
  
• 10 x 15 minute dark exposures at -15c
  
• 11 x 20 min & 24 x 10 min of OIII
  
• 11 x 20 min & 24 x 10 min of SII
  
• 49 x 10 min of HA
  
• 30 SII and OIII Flats for 3 nights each
  
• 50 HA flats
  
• Total 230 flat frames using Spike-aTM Flat Fielder
  
• 50 bias frames
  
• 2 pixel dithering
  
• SBIG ST-i CCD for auto-guiding using OAG-8300
  
• Pixinsight for basic histogram stretch and curves adjustment - They have a Free Trial, use it!
  
• Dew Heater with heater band
  
  
  Processing was basically:
  
  
• PixInsight PixelMath to combine roughly (Red: 85% SII 15% HA) (Green: 85% HA 15% SII) (Blue: 100% OIII) , which gives the colors a bit more pleasing look compared to straight 100% maps
  
• Color calibration and DBE to fix the purple background caused by the 20 minute subs for OIII and SII
  
• Curves Transormation to bring out the colors and more clearly show the different bands. HA is fairly dominanent in the area it shares with OIII, so OIII is bumped up to compensate
  
• The pixelmath formula posted here in order to remove most of the purple stars caused by the OIII and SII subs
  
• Basic ACDNR for a bit of noise reduction
  
• Resampled to 1920 pixels wide because the original size is too large for imgur
  
• Because I messed up on rotating the camera properly one night, I had to patch up the bottom left corner of the sky in order to make up for the missed data
  
• Here is the non-patched up version at 90% size
  
  My thoughts on the image:
  
  Overall I'm very pleased with how it came out. I know I could have done a better job with the processing aspect of the image; however, this is an area I have a lot to learn. In general I'm pleased with it though.
  
  The actual exposure stack came out really, and I got a lot of clean data; which allows me to process this again at a later date once I'm better at Pixinsight.
  
  I learned a lot during this process, so I'm confident my next image will be even better. I've come to find there is a ton of liberty in how people process these narrowband images, causing them to each look different. Please feel free to provide your criticism or feedback :-)
  

1.

Which wires specifically? In general, I was planning on going for heat-shrink solder terminal connectors and crimp connectors.

One of the reasons I posted this is because there are quite a few connectors and I am still not entirely 100% sure what I need. Obviously when screwing something in to a screw terminal block, the ring crimp connectors. But when joining wires, I would prefer to use the heat-shrink-solder type, but there are also butts and blades (heh).

I bought this set of terminals, figured I'd need them anyways: Assorted crimp terminals

I am probably going to buy this set of solder terminals: Fancy solder terminals

I am pretty good at soldering (though usually circuit boards, not automotive wires, hence not entirely knowing what to do.) I have easy access to a heat gun as well.

2.

Well, both - the breaker goes on the battery, and it sets the maximum amperage for the entire new fuse block and everything attached to it. The fuses go for each individual circuit. I want to use just one fuse for each circuit, instead of having several different circuits sitting on the same fuse, largely for my own desire for neatness and debug-ability. I could have one main fuse instead of the main breaker, but I figure that they will serve the same function and I may as well go for the re-usable option.

I was going to go for this breaker: Fat breaker

That said, I bought this fuse kit, which includes up to a 35A fuse, which will be more than enough. I also bought this fuse holder, in case I decide to use one main fuse instead of one main breaker. (I figured I'd need both of these anyways for some project, may as well get them even if I don't use them right now.)

Fuse Kit

In-line Fuse Holder

---

In general, I think my system will basically look like this:

Battery 12V + Breaker = safe 12V

Save 12V + ignition 12V (do I need a fuse here?) + Relay = ignition-switched 12V

Ignition-hot 12V + Fuse Block + ATC/ATO Fuses = eight fused circuits

Fused circuits, obviously, feeding from above. I will probably add a 20A switch in line with high-power circuits, just in case, as an emergency switch.

Fused circuits will terminate at something like this Ground Bar.

 

What do you think of this proposed setup?

I do realize that it's kind of overkill for what I want.

But you can probably agree that overkill is better than your car burning down!

The switch, or more precisely the circuit board for the switch, came from here: http://www.mausberrycircuits.com/collections/frontpage
Pick the one that fits your needs. You'll also need an actual switch; I grabbed a momentary switch from Radio Shack. Again, pick one that fits your needs. You can use a momentary, slide, toggle, pushbutton... the Mausberry doesn't care. You'll also connect the Mausberry to 2 pins on the Pi and download s script from Mausberry that executes when the switch is flipped (thus the orderly shutdown). You know how the Pi's red light stays on when you shut it down via a command? The Mausberry completely shuts off the power to the Pi, so no more red light.
I've had the buck converter for a few years from another unfinished project. It accepts up to 30 volts input, and output is adjustable via a tiny screw. I have mine set to output 5.15v. It will output up to 3 amps. I remember it came from eBay via a slow boat from China, but I'm sure Amazon has the same thing. It doesn't have to be adjustable, as long as it outputs 5ish volts.
The relay I think came from Adafruit. It activates (closes the circuit) when one of the Pi's power pins (i think I used pin 1) is hot. So if the Pi is ON, the hub is ON and vice versa. When activated, it allows power to flow from the buck converter to the USB hub. The USB hub then powers the SDR's and the WiFi dongle.
The hub itself is a cheap unpowered hub from the radio shack clearance rack. I stripped it down to the bare board and soldered wires to the pos and neg to make it powered.
I wanted a hub so I could offload the peripheral's power requirements from the Pi to the buck converter. I just don't think the Pi really likes pushing that much power to its peripherals.
The GPS/AHRS gets power via the Pi's pins as per the normal connection, but I had considered powering it from the relay.
The reason I went to this length for the power is because in the beginning, it was hard for me to find a 5v power source that could provide the necessary power via a USB cable. Either the portable battery was lacking, or the cable was lacking, or the 12v USB adapter was lacking. So the obvious solution to me was to accept ship's power (12v-24v) and convert it to 5v myself. From there it was an easy decision to split out the power and ease the strain on the Pi. I have 12v power easily available in the Mooney and I have the portable 12v ammo box (in the pictures) when I fly in other planes, so in my situation a solid 12v source made better sense than an iffy 5v source.

Caveat emptor: With this setup, you are no longer building a "cheap" ADS-B box, but rather a darn good, reliable one at a very reasonable price. And should something inside ever fail, it's a cheap matter of replacing the bad component rather than the whole setup. WIN! I am ever grateful to the software developers.

EDIT: here's a link to the relay: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009T2M012?ref_=cm_sw_r_awd_HYZBwb5RRB29

This looks like the Buck converter. Turn the tiny brass screw to adjust the output voltage: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00TMFKJ9Q?ref_=cm_sw_r_awd_Y4ZBwbC5J8VK9

Do you have a cable box or any other device that makes heat 24/7? If so, you might consider wiring up the fans to run 24/7. That's also the simplest way to wire them. Lower temperatures are good for electronic longevity. Fans wear out in a few years, but are cheap to replace compared to a PS4 or receiver.

If you want to trigger them off your receiver, that's pretty easy to do. Most likely your receiver can't power the fans directly (most 12V trigger outputs are 200-500mA output). Some receivers have a switched 120V outlet on the back, which makes this really easy, you just plug the fans in.

Fans can draw anywhere from 160mA (0.16A) to 600mA+ (0.6A)
The Antec fan you linked doesn't have a spec listed for power draw, but typically very quiet fans are below 300 mA.

If your total fan power draw (add together all fans) is less than 90% of the power your receiver can output, you can hook the fans up directly.

If your total power draw exceeds 90% of the rated output of your receiver, you need to use a relay to power the fans.

Here is a relay board that will work.

Here is the same thing but shipped free (probably from China, may be slow)

You'd also need a 12V power supply that provides enough current to run all your fans together.

Here are USB Fans - plug straight into PS4 or TV, and they turn on when the device powers up.

You could also use a 5V relay to control 12V fans from the PS4 usb if you wanted. Or use the TV's USB to trigger the fans whenever the TV is on.

Here is a plug and play thermally controlled fan setup

I'd plan on using both fans as exhaust on the top shelf. Just make air inlet holes in the bottom. Typically you want 30%-50% more inlet volume than outlet volume if you can get it. Remember all the cracks along the doors and edges will let air in as well. Making an air path across the front of the shelf by trimming is a fine idea.

So, step 1, decide when you need the cooling system to turn on - PS4, receiver, tv, 24/7, or other (such as temperature).
Then I can tell you how to use that device to turn it on.

I don't know about the Avalon specifically, but its possible in many cars. You'll have to exercise some Google-fu.

A whole bunch of factory head units, especially on nicer cars starting in the early 2000s, have aux inputs on the back of the unit. Before an aux input became a standard equipment expectation, it was often a dealer-installed option (i.e. plugging in and running an aux cable) or used to wire up a CD changer (which you can often unwire and replace with an aux in).

For instance, here's what I installed in my car: http://www.amazon.com/BMW-82-11-149-389/dp/B000PA00XM#productDetails. $36 on Amazon for OEM, or you can hunt around on eBay or other smaller sites and probably find an OEM one for $25 or a knock off for $15. Literally just plugs into the back of the unit, then you run it to wherever you want, but typically the glovebox is easiest.

Optionally, I also discretely mounted a small ~$40 bluetooth/A2DP receiver (this guy, much nicer than OP, gets power from the car and also doubles as a USB power plug) on the dash next to the stereo and ran its wire under the trim into the glovebox to connect to the 3.5mm aux. It works/sounds great and I mostly use the bluetooth since its nice to not have to fiddle with wires every time I get in/out of the car, but I can also unplug the bluetooth and plug straight in to the 3.5mm plug in the glovebox.

OK, here's an approach that should work and has worked for others:

Use a TP-Link HS100 Smart WiFi/Alexa-enabled plug driving an isolated relay, e.g.. https://amazon.com/Enclosed-AC-Protection-Bounce-Terminals/dp/B017743I7S/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1483241234&sr=8-2&keywords=120v+Relay+switch

Here is a quote from a reviewer who controlled a fireplace:

>Does exactly what it's supposed to. I used this with a TP-Link Smart Plug to allow me to use my Amazon Echo turn my gas fireplace on and off. The project took literally 5 minutes to hook up and works great. If I were going to pick any nit, I wish they had a version with a solid state relay so it doesn't "click" on and off, but that's really minor, and for this price, it can't be beat.Does exactly what it's supposed to. I used this with a TP-Link Smart Plug to allow me to use my Amazon Echo turn my gas fireplace on and off. The project took literally 5 minutes to hook up and works great. If I were going to pick any nit, I wish they had a version with a solid state relay so it doesn't "click" on and off, but that's really minor, and for this price, it can't be beat.

Setup the smart plug at an AC outlet close to the FP. Then plug the AC cord that comes with the relay module into the smart plug. The two wires that control the FP connect to the Gnd and NO contacts of the relay. Those two wires are very low voltage and current ("Millivolt circuit") that turn on the fire when connected. They should never contact a 120V circuit, which is why you need the isolated relay module.

So, here it goes, feel free to PM if I leave anything unclear.

Sorry if I was unclear....you need to have the Pi first and then building an outlet or switch is pretty cheap. The Pi and other stuff (case, sd card, powersupply) will total out to about $50 but is completely worth it because of all the other stuff you can do with them (media server, web server, whole home ad blocking, game emulation, etc)

Ill start with how to get the pi to control things and then explain how to get the echo to control the pi...

If you only want to control led strip lighting IIRC a lot of them have IR remotes and the simplest solution is probably to build an IR blaster (you will need a couple basic electronic components but cost is less than $10 even if you buy from a radioshack), and then use LIRC (http://www.lirc.org/) to emulate the remote with the Pi. The added bonus is you can then control any other IR remote device (you tv, stereo etc).

If you don't go the IR route you will use a relay to act as a switch. I have used a number of these guys for various projects: relay The basics of a relay is a small voltage opens and closes a magnetic switch that is controlling a much larger voltage. So the 3.3 volts a "general purpose input/output" (GPIO) pin a raspberry pi generates can open or close the other side of the relay that can handle household voltage. I should add the caution..."don't mess with household voltage unless you really know what you are doing you can burn down your house and kill yourself". Anyway the idea is you build a box (think electrical gang box from a home improvement store) where the power comes into the relay and then leaves onto an outlet that you want to control. I have built a couple that are the relay and outlet all in one retrofit outlet box all mounted into the wall (the relay is hidden behind the outlet it is controlling. Then you run some small gague wire (telephone 4 conductor wire works well) from the relay to the pi. The end result is the pi sends voltage on one line to the relay, the relay closes connecting the household voltage to the outlet and whatever is connected to the relay turns on. I usually include a inline 10amp fuze as well because the relays are only rated to 10A and all my breakers are 15A.

Anyway, now you have a raspberry pi that can turn an outlet on and off to tie to the echo you use a piece of software called HA-Bridge . It allows you pi to emulate a smart home device Alexa will recognize. Alexa sends on/off command to the emulated device and the pi can trigger a script to carry out your desired intent.

Right now I can walk into my basement and say "Echo, turn on the basement" Where basement is a group (grouped int he Alexa app) of several devices all emulated by the pi and the pi turns on the Tv and receiver with ir commands from LIRC, the lamps controlled by a relay turning on and off the power to a couple outlets and the Christmas Tree that is plugged into a single relay controlled outlet.

Hope this helps, it sounds like a ton of stuff but is very doable.

Well IMO you should use relays, since they pull a pretty damn decent amount of amps when they first fire up - so get familiar with them if you aren't already, and google bosch style relay wiring. It's pretty damn simple. You just wire to them, to a fused line to the battery, and then inside to a switch and switched power off ur fuse panel.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B017VDI0GY/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I made it all into a harness with both fans cuz I build deutsch harnesses all day, but really the wiring is pretty rudimentary.

I had to grind down the fan studs and chop up the efan shroud CONSIDERABLY (who knows what it's out of, snagged it off the ground at a jy). I found out later I had another stock xj fan sitting around, but I'm pretty sure even those would have slight clearance issues and would need a bit of a hack job, but it ain't hard at all.

What I can say for sure is that the stock clutch fan must be a MAJOR drag on the engine. When you see how much force it takes to spin one, you'll be shocked. My c1500's clutch fan setup is probably 1/2 the drag, if that.

If you have experience installing speakers in your car you could save some dough by doing them yourself but they’re not the easiest to install in the rear deck. You gotta remove a good amount of plastic to get to the two 6x9s and then there are two speakers in the rear seats as well that you need to remove the rear plastic. The front door speakers are easy but you gotta buy spacers for them. As far as brands go, for the head unit this Sony unit is awesome Sony XAVAX1000 6.2" (15.7 cm) Apple CarPlay Media Receiver with Bluetooth https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07JDFKQJ5/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_ZH9NDbN89V8BH and speakers Pioneer TS-G1620F 600 Watts Max Power 6-1/2" 2-Way G-Series Coaxial Full Range Car Audio Stereo Speakers https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00A0LZHYS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_fY9NDbGY26QS0 and rear speakers Pioneer TS-A6965R 6" x 9" 3-Way... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00A0LXRL8?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
And you’ll need these spacers Nissan / Infiniti 6.5 Inch Black... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007ZQVKYM?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share all for under $1000 bucks!

This is the polar opposite of SMD, but I thought I'd share my solution...

While I love DIY, smoke detectors are important. I wanted to interface with my home system but without compromising the integrity of the system.

Get a 120v first alert.
First Alert SA521CN Wireless Interconnected Hardwired Photoelectric Smoke Alarm with Battery Backup https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000EVO9D4

Get the smart relay interconnect.
BRK RM4 Smart Relay for First Alert https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0039PF21U
This includes schematic for wiring to the detector and the color codes for NO/NC relay connection.

~~Get an optocoupler or isolation relay. Mains Voltage! The output of the RM4 is 120V.
Enclosed AC/DC Power Relay with Protection & De-Bounce. Screw Terminals. 120V Trigger Input. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017743I7S
The RM4 output powers the relay. The screw terminals connect to the 8266.~~

Get a Esp8266; Flash tasmota firmware. Configure for switch and mqtt. Wire it up.
First Alert is now part of the matrix.

Quick update: Did not need the second relay/optocoupler. The BRK RM4 is an isolated relay. Their docs did not make that perfectly clear so I assumed worst case w/o testing it.

After considering our discussion on this I can tell you for sure what I would do if I were in your situation. Since you already have a solar system in place and not starting from scratch you will need a DC-DC switching power supply to replace the AC inverter. I still have never seen one for sale that is suitable for mining so I would build my own to run a single ant s9 based on the design I have tested extensively running 2 ant s5. The design to run 2 s5 is pulling about 700 watts so we need to scale that up to do about 1400 watts. To get right to it these are the parts you'll need, I'll explain in a bit how it will need to be put together and how I came to this design in the first place. After I get all that out I will try to answer some of the other questions folks have about a fully stand alone system. For your needs you will only need the DC power supply/switch/regulator.

2 of these (note it's a 5 pack so you'll be getting 10 relays total. 8 will be used) about $28
https://www.amazon.com/Pack-EPAuto-Relay-Harness-Bosch/dp/B017VDI0GY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1468169603&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=12v+relay&psc=1

1 of these about $70
https://www.amazon.com/Tracer-Tracer1210RN-Charge-Controller-Regulator/dp/B008KWPGS6/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1468170133&sr=8-5&keywords=mppt+charge+controller

10 of these about $200
https://www.amazon.com/Nextrox-Converter-Regulator-Step-Down/dp/B00BWKXTUU/ref=sr_1_11?ie=UTF8&qid=1468169653&sr=8-11&keywords=12v+voltage+regulator

Those three items are an mppt charge controller that will be used to control the relays. The 12v relays which will allow you to safely control the power switching and voltage regulators to make sure the power stays clean so as not to damage your gear.

Here's how it goes together, note that all regulators and relays will be hooked in parallel to allow us to get to the desired total amperage;

• DC 12 volt power bus (battery main) gets hooked to the charge controller, powering it up in the 12v range.
  
• Negative bus lead connects to the regulator negative.
  -Positive bus lead connects to relay pass in
  
• Relay pass out 12v positive lead connects to regulator positive.
  
• Relay 'activate power' leads get connected to 'lamp controller' on charge controller.
  
• Regulator positive and negative out connect to miner power cables (pci-e)
  
  Once this is connected as such pressing the orange button on the charge controller front panel will activate the relays allowing power to flow to the regulators which will then even it out and pass it to a secondary bus which will then have the miner power cables hooked to it and power the miners.
  
  By using the lamp controller feature of the charge controller you get low voltage protection. If the batteries get low (even though sounds like you won't have much of a problem with that) the lamp controller will power down the relays and therefore stop the miners. It will automatically reconnect when the battery charge comes back up to safe level.
  
  The idea is to have all this in a box with cooling fans (12v dc case fans) and size it to power a single miner. This box of parts gives you about a 15% efficiency boost over using a big inverter. The cost of an inverter to do this is about $2000, my solution costs about $300, thus dramatically reducing total system costs and allowing a modular approach that will scale while limiting down time due to equipment failure.

After seeing a couple posts of people's custom button boxes on reddit I knew I had found my next project. I've been doing quite a bit of Arduino and small electronics lately, and this was the perfect fit. So off I went to Amazon, ordered a bunch of stuff I thought might be cool / useful and started piecing things together. Took a few weekends of working on it here and there, the most time consuming part just being tediously soldering and wiring the 38 inputs.

​

Was originally going to set it into some sort of project enclosure, but ended up getting impatient and just mounting it to two pieces of plywood with some feet. It added enough heft to it that I can lift the switch guard and rotate the somewhat stiff selector without issue. Eventually I'll get a better enclosure for it, probably grab one off of Hammond mfg or get someone with a larger 3D printer to make one. The Engine Start and black/red button (that I'm going to use for quantum jump) have leds in them that I don't currently have hooked up to the Arduino, but once we get some sort of API into Star Citizen hopefully I can tie them to engine state and jump spool/ready state.

​

The controls are:

Power on, flight ready, 3 misc buttons, zoom rotary encoder, 3 misc buttons, quantum spool, quantum jump

Hat switch + center for shield distribution and reset, engine, shield, and thruster power switches, power distribution profile selector, misc selector

Flare Fire button, flare select, 7 misc toggle switches, self destruct switch, eject switch.

​

I mapped everything to a button in the Arduino code (no rotary encoder as zoom in this screenshot) so that I can easily bind to functions in Star Citizen. Unfortunately without an API this means the switch positions can get out of sync with the actual ship status easily. If by the time of release / they make an API there still isn't a way to read / set state by API then I'll probably make a new version with only toggle buttons.

​

Code Libraries

PCF8574_library for interfacing with the IO expanders
- https://github.com/xreef/PCF8574_library

ArduinoJoystickLibrary for emulating a joystick on windows
- https://github.com/MHeironimus/ArduinoJoystickLibrary/

​

Useful Instructables

Joystick Library
- https://www.instructables.com/id/Create-a-Joystick-Using-the-Arduino-Joystick-Libra/

PCF8574
- https://www.instructables.com/id/PCF8574-GPIO-Extender-With-Arduino-and-NodeMCU/

​

Parts List

1 Terminal Expansion Board - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07PGDWJ2V

3 PCF8574 IO Expansion Board - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07B95LMLQ

1 Rotary Encoder - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07DM2YMT4

1 4 Position Rotary Selector - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07JN2967L

1 Red Ring Momentary Push Button - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B017ILTX60

1 Engine Start Momentary Push Button - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07MK2394L

5 Heavy Duty Toggle Switch - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B078KBC5VH

1 12 Position Rotary Switch - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074WMC9C8

1 5-Channel Rocker - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07K5PFPNC

1 Arduino Micro - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AFY2S56

7 Red/Black Momentary Push Buttons - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07BD2D96W

2 Red Cover Toggle Switches - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07BD2D96W

8 Small Toggle Switches - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B013DZB6CO

It's good but not great. My riding buddy says daylight visibility is ok, but to my eyes it seems a bit dim. That being said I've had several cops behind me and no issues to date.

Functionally it's been perfect except for having to redrill the plate mounting holes. As I'm sure you know it requires an LED compatible blinker relay. Another $7 Amazon purchase. Adjustable Blinker Relay

Future... I'll replace it with something brighter and more integrated. I've toyed with the thought of embedding it into a custom seat pan but it still won't be as bright as I'd like.

After seeing what /u/SgtDwightSchrute1 built the other day, I wanted to give it a go as well! I took most of the parts he used and linked in his thread, but I went with a few more switches as well as a set of POV buttons that have a mode switch to switch them from POV directions to an X-Y axis. The Green button is for the POV mode, and I also moved the Mode LED to the face of the box so you can tell what mode it is in.

I also added some vinyl carbon fiber wrap to give it a nice finish!

Parts links which are the same as /u/SgtDwightSchrute1 for the most part:

Button box: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002BSRIO

Control board: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00UUROWWK

Push buttons: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00T45I7GQ

Toggle switches: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0154JY8OA

Carbon Fiber Vinyl Film: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0059XCVVO

The LED is a 5mm Green 18mcd with a holder I had around, but any LED would work, just don't go super bright!

Original inspiration here: https://www.reddit.com/r/hoggit/comments/acn7il/scrutes_cheap_dcs_button_box_diy/?st=JQIL5FJK&sh=c37d0a0a

Don't do it! There's a better way! Go to Autozone. Buy this https://www.amazon.com/Dorman-59207-Throttle-Return-Spring/dp/B001HZKGCE

I used the single long skinny silver one. Hook one end around where the top of the clutch spring used to be and hook the other end on a hole in the metal bar above your clutch pedal. It barely adds to the resistance and more importantly, relieves that annoying snap right at your bite point. It feels almost the same as driving without any springs, but the clutch spring will ensure your pedal goes back up.

Only issue is you can hear a bit of the spring movement when you clutch in and out, but I got used to it after awhile.

EDIT: I see someone's already mentioned it. Oops. Anyway, the point about it being preferable to replacing the stock unit stands. You can't purchase that clutch spring without the entire OEM clutch set, and from what I've read, it's pretty easy to break that plastic piece, especially with the spring tension in the way, so I didn't play with mine at all.

I did this recently, too, and used the skinnier silver spring from this set to hold the pedal back up. Check out the picture on post 607 here- http://www.focusst.org/forum/focus-st-discussions/37372-does-focus-st-have-assistance-clutch-spring-61.html

Mine looks like that but I didn't find two springs necessary, just the skinnier one works fine. This way you don't have to deal with disassembling the stock spring holder, and you can return it to stock very easily. Pedal feels great, I should've done it day one.

I just put lights on my drive.

I used this on the front and this on the rear.

Since the motorcycle taillight has a circuit for both the tail light and brake light, I wired the tail light to the same switch as the head light. I bought an adjustable motorcycle led flasher and put the brake light on a second circuit and switch.

So, I ended up with a headlight/taillight combo on one switch, and a brighter, flashing taillight on the other switch. Both of these circuits are only active when the key is turned on. I am quite pleased with the outcome.

While I was in the dash, I also added a 12 volt power port for charging phones and my bluetooth speaker, which has a mount on the dash.

FYI, there is a factory power harness which has unused 12 volt power located behind the key switch.

I'll try to post pics when my phone is charged.

Feel free to ask any questions. I'm pretty familiar with the electrical on the drive now (mine is gas).

Edit: Here are some pics. Excuse the dirty cart. Believe it or not, that little cheapo light bar actually put out too much light. At first, it would light up a stop sign 150 yards down my street. I aimed it at the ground to keep from blinding oncoming traffic.

If your UPS can provide the signal (most can), you should definitely go for that.

Otherwise, I've used this successfully in the past: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B017743I7S/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Super easy, plug and play into the GPIO.

Nice work!

Looks like that mount could support a pretty hefty tarheel/screwdriver type antenna. Any reason you chose to to make a hinge mount over using a bracket that bolts to the spare tire carrier? Like this

Thanks! I'm in Los Angeles, only electronic components place I can think of is Fry's Electronics: www.frys.com

Would something like this work? https://www.amazon.com/SMAKN%C2%AE-SRD-12VDC-SL-C-Channel-Level-Module/dp/B00MMW0XWY/ref=pd_sim_60_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=VZ0TCJ9326VS28VJSDEJ

Thanks again for your help.

OK. Here is what you are dealing with:

1.(L) black. Line voltage load. Either 110v or 220v. Need to verify with a voltmeter.

2.(W/Y) orange. W=heating and Y=cooling. Used for a two pipe hydronic heating/cooling system. That means water.

3.(Y/A) yellow. Y = cooling. A = electrical heater output. Heat and cool active to any relay.

4.(G1) red. Low speed fan. Through a relay.

5.(GM) blue. Medium speed fan. Through a relay.

6.(GH) brown. High speed fan. Through a relay.

7.(N) white. Line voltage neutral. Either 110v or 220v. Need to verify with a voltmeter.

What is missing is the "C" and "R" wires. Nowhere is there a low voltage 24v load and common wire. Your current thermostat does not use it.

You have two options that I know of. Purchase a transformer to supply the 24v to your new thermostat. Or return the Honeywell and purchase a wifi enabled line voltage T-stat.

Transformers. Here are two that may work:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0037MXM1C/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A26RBB5XP2LWJC
For 240 volts

http://www.amazon.com/Honeywell-RC840T-120-Electromechanical-Relay-Built/dp/B00D5YLY2G/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1464560168&sr=8-1&keywords=Aube+RC840T-120
For 120 volts

Line voltage T-stat:
https://casaconnect.com/en/shop/smart-thermostat-caleo/

Note: Since you have hydronic heating and cooling, in addition to HVAC, either choice for the thermostat will likely mean that you will loose that option. I have not evaluated the new Honeywell or Casa to see if they support hybrid systems.

Just as an update and thanks for all the feedback.

I bought this: https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B017743I7S/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_image_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Hooked up the fireplace switch cables to the ON and the COMMON wire. Plugged it into the smart outlet and then to the wall. Works perfectly and it all fits under the fireplace with the rest of the controls.

What makes Nold interesting is the ability to control 2 doors as well as attach a magnetic sensor to let you know the open/close state. This is why I loved the WeMo Maker so much.

If you want an inexpensive garage door opener, use this with a WiFi outlet:

Enclosed AC/DC Power Relay with Protection & De-Bounce. Screw Terminals. 120V Trigge... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017743I7S/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_c_api_Zi7KBb1KYGJB2

I used this

Just use a basic Caseta on/off light switch to activate the relay. From the load side of switch just wire the neutral and hot to the relay and connect the millivolt wires to terminals that open/close as the relay functions.

That Caseta switch is used/classified as a plug in the Harmony app.

I have an activity called "Fireplace" that kicks it on. Set up that activity so that it doesn't mess with other activities that are running.

Just wish I had the ability to set a timer in Harmony to shut off the fireplace after X amount of time. Apparently you can't do that with light switches.

Thats spot on. I figured i was pretty lucky in that regard. Good on BMW to allow that to happen though. Here is the cable that i am using right now in my car. Not too pricy, and the install wasnt much of a hassle either.

I have done this. Worked just fine. I used a standard Wemo outlet (picked up recently from Amazon for <$20) connected to one of these $9 relays. I then used a piece of solid 18/2 to connect the relay to the fireplace switch terminals. One of the great things about the setup is that the original switch still works in case of an outage.

I'm planning on trying the same setup for my garage doors.

For the door speakers, you need a set of brackets. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007ZQVKYM/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 These worked perfect for me, as for the tweets, the component set I've installed is from "West Coast Customs" (Not overly happy with them, this is stated not as a recommendation, but as a "this works"), but their 1" tweets fit perfect with the stock tweeter bracket, no cutting or anything.

Yes, all amazon for the CB parts.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00603DSGO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I got the Cooltech mount for the Cobra 75WXST which is very cool.

http://www.cooltechllc.com/wrangler-parts-accessories/52-versamount.html

This guy on youtube had a good walkthrough on the install. But now I'm probably going to wire it up to my SPOD since I added that a while back.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oajh4Cd3_oY

If Fibaro's smart implant was available this is the perfect use case.
https://www.fibaro.com/us/products/smart-implant/

Since it's not available you can still use the Fibaro RGBW module over ZWave in Input/Output mode and control the DC circuit of the speaker.
☝️This is how I would implement it.

Another solution is use any ZWave/zigbee relay module and use a AC-DC Relay.
(https://www.amazon.com/Uxcell-a14051000ux0379-JQX-13F-Power-Relay/dp/B00NWHJ5N6/ref=pd_aw_sim_263_3?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00NWHJ5N6&pd_rd_r=beb5c684-2d9d-11e9-9da1-2f38c3bf93b4&pd_rd_w=HxKEf&pd_rd_wg=VItgd&pf_rd_p=469620d9-3e90-496d-9dc8-b19f900ba5fe&pf_rd_r=2TB1210HZWRKN4Z6NFBF&psc=1&refRID=2TB1210HZWRKN4Z6NFBF).

http://www.amazon.com/GTR-Red-Start-Button-2009/dp/B004D0I11S

http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/45-4282

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00B4XBQPU/

Screw cap covers for license plate.

I recommend those as cosmetic upgrades, as well as white LED lights for the visor, dome, and license plate. It's incredibly simple to replace and in my opinion it makes it look much better.

A more expensive (but worth it) would be a gloss black vinyl roof wrap.

There is defiantly more than enough power to use automotive lighting. Let me phrase it like this. If you think about the typical power consumption of a tail light (mine is 40W at 12V), even with the addition of my headlights which are 18W a piece (supposedly) you’re only up to a total of 76W for the entire system. If we assume an inefficient driver we can round that up to 80W of additional power from your battery or a little over 1.5 A at 48V. Compare that to a 1000W motor running at half power (500W/48V= 10.4 A) so you’re adding a super small amount of constant draw (like 1/10 the normal drain) to have all you’re lights on all the time. Here are the parts I used:

Taillight: Greenclick 40W Motorcycle Tail... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072Q5MK75?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Headlights: Nilight Led Light Bar 2PCS 18W 4"... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IY3YLCI?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Converter: Kohree DC/DC Converter Regulator... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0756T983Q?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Blinker relay: AUDEW 2-Pin Electronic Turn... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B011BTMDQM?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Yes! That does make sense. I was looking on Amazon, and came across this relay. with the drawings, should be similar. Off with a positive trigger.

https://www.amazon.com/ONLINE-LED-STORE-Pack-Interlocking/dp/B01KVZ2MU4?ref_=fsclp_pl_dp_2

This: http://www.amazon.com/BMW-82-11-149-389/dp/B000PA00XM

Hook your iphone/ipod into the aux input.

You might need these: http://www.amazon.com/Leegoal-Panel-Dashboard-Dismantle-Installer/dp/B00D7XNQHG/ref=sr_1_3?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1452048112&sr=1-3&keywords=panel+removal+tool

And watch this for how to install it: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0qmXdnFdjwk

I found this job to be pretty easy. I installed in the back of pocket below the radio. I can tuck the wire away that way.

Everyone is right about the maintenance. Stay on top of it or it will get out of control.

i would use a plain old relay.

something like this and then like you said, heat if too low, fan if too high. i prefer digital temp probes like the ds18b20. It comes in a nice water proof package so you can spill beer (or wine?) on it without worry.

I’m using a Rugged Ridge antenna mount and a 2ft Firestik antenna on a medium spring. I would prefer 3ft, but I had the 2ft from my last vehicle and wanted to reuse. Like the setup on that.

I have a medium-ish sized CB radio, which is just too big to go anywhere in the cab. I would recommend going with the Cobra 75 radio that a lot of Jeepers use. Not easily stolen, doesn’t take up room.

The voltage is right, but we are worried about the current. The gpio pin is designed as a signal, which means very fast switching at nearly no current. The relay however does real work and needs current to do it. The transistor will act as the switch that turns the current on at the response of a signal voltage.

You can buy a relay package made for Arduino and Pi that have the transistor and flyback diode preattached, as well as some other protection and a led. I recommend you do that instead of making it yourself.

Edit: For example: https://www.amazon.com/MCIGICM-Channel-Raspberry-Optocoupler-Expansion/dp/B072BY3KJF This one also includes an optocoupler which is a very common and highly recommended safety feature to prevent any voltage spikes on the mains from getting in to the RPi.

I would think it's best to power the motors with a separate power supply from the Arduino power since the motors will draw a lot of current. Instead of powering the motors from the onboard 5v supply, run a separate supply through either a relay module or a motor controller board. Like these: relay, motor driver.

clinometer

Removed the radio and capped it with abs plastic, fit it with a usb charger and [four of these switches in different colors] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001GH1PU0/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1) using these housings

the switches got to [relays] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B017VDI0GY/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1) that are powered [by this fuse box] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00QMTAZ1W/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1) that is mounted to the top of the OEM fuse box under the hood.

Those power my OBHS and OBA. Other two switches not in use yet, hoping for rock lights/light bar some day maybe?

Removed the old fog light switch panel, replaced with abs plastic and volume control that goes to an amp that goes to a stereo jack that i just plug into my phone for music.

I'm not entirely sure if you it will work in a 2004 or not but I installed this bad boy amazon in my 2006 325ci about two years ago and it still works like a charm.

Yea of course! Relays are usually used to handle large voltage and current so 12v 2 amps is nothing. Something like this would be perfect
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B072BY3KJF#Ask

There are some tricks to using the rapaberry pi with the relay but its pretty simple

I used the same relay as /u/upnorth77 https://www.amazon.com/Enclosed-AC-Protection-Bounce-Terminals/dp/B017743I7S/ref=sr_1_10?ie=UTF8&qid=1503427639&sr=8-10&keywords=dry+contact+relay+120v and a TP Link smart switch https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0178IC734/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 . Pretty simple to hook up if you have a switch that turns your gas fireplace on/off.

You can get a relay like this and then connect the fan to the normally closed contacts on the relay, and the intermatic timer to the coil. And if you live somewhere with 220v then make sure to get a 220v coil version.

Thanks, you're right actually. Since my question is safety related, it's more than reasonable to be precise.

I meant this one

That relay is a nice looking device, good find. They also make a cheaper version, http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B017743I7S/ref=pd_aw_sim_23_of_6?ie=UTF8&dpID=51RYb%2Ba%2BayL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_SL500_SR100%2C64_&refRID=0HWM3SV21K3EEQT2B97X

You want a relay that switches the 110v mains with a 24v signal like this:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00D5YLY2G/

Then you can use any of the normal smart thermostats (which switch on 24VAC).

This one (which I use) even provides the C wire (common) which the ecobee needs.

Something like this would work but you'd have to be able to open the unit and solder in a new switch. This switch would have to be glued in because of the thickness of the wood involved.

Or, this might be easier but not the same form factor.

You are going to need to do a bit of research. You will need two additional things: something to read the temperature (one-wire type ones like DS18B20 are easy to use: https://www.amazon.com/SunFounder-DS18B20-Temperature-Arduino-Raspberry/dp/B013GB27HS/ref=sr_1_7 ) and a relay to turn on the heat lamp: https://www.amazon.com/MCIGICM-Channel-Raspberry-Optocoupler-Expansion/dp/B072BY3KJF/

The rest you can find on the internet, how to read the temperature, how to operate the relay, and then put them together.

http://imgur.com/a/B8eIh

So there are the pictures. I totally forgot about the push to start button. I changed the color of the LED's in my OEM one but before I went purple I started out with red:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004D0I11S/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
You can't put a little pice of GTR in your AC. =)

Thank you :)

I used a simple 5v relay module, very similar to this one here: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00E0NTPP4

The one I'm using is very old, bought it years ago and I don't remember w here, but the one in the amazon link above is very close. In my video, I show the module starting at around 6:58 - https://youtu.be/1mtX4kB1EEA?t=418

You can also use a transistor for this. Pretty much any logic-level transistor will do, or any transistor that can be turned on with 5v of power. I'm working on another project to control an RGBW LED strip, for that I'm using transistors and the models I'm using are IRL2203 and IRLU024 MOSFETs.

12V/5V is nothing for a off the shelf switch. If you want to get semi-fancy, you can take one of our 5 1/2 in bay covers and drill out the appropriate sized whole and install 4 toggle switches. Maybe 5 if you want a master kill switch (space permitting).

Here is a 5-pack for $10: https://www.amazon.com/Nilight-Rocker-Toggle-Switch-Waterproof/dp/B078KBC5VH/

Get some PWM fan header cables (https://www.amazon.com/CRJ-Black-Sleeved-Splitter-Adapter/dp/B075H6HT8J/ for instance). you just need enough extra cable to go from the PWM header on the Mobo to the switch. Make sure the PWM lead (yellow i think?) and Negative is still wired to the fan. You still would like to monitor the RPM I am sure. Simply wire each 12V+ lead to the switches.

Even better, get some switches with an LED so that you can tell when they are on: https://www.amazon.com/Lighted-Rocker-Toggle-Linkstyle-Vehicles/dp/B0776QXX21


Edit: Cant confirm this... But this doc seems to show some or all of the PWM specification if you want to dig further. https://www.handsontec.com/pdf_files/4_Wire_PWM_Spec.pdf

Having this on your wall for your garbage disposal would be amazing!

Take a look at your radio model number and compare it to the model numbers in this thread about aux-enabled radios. If you have one that is aux compatible, getting [an aux adapter] (https://www.amazon.com/BMW-82-11-149-389/dp/B000PA00XM) and routing it to the front isn't too difficult - just pull out radio trim piece, radio, AC unit, sunglasses tray.

I ended up drilling a hole in the bottom of the center console panel (empty space next to the passenger heated seat button) and pulling the aux port there, since I found that was much easier to reach than the glovebox.

If your radio is not aux-compatible (they all have the port, just some don't have aux mode enabled), you could always go for the GROM or similar units (the £150 fancy adaptor that they were talking about), use an emulator, or you could splice into the CD player lines.

First this going to be removed as what to buy questions go in the meagthread sticked at the top of the feed. As for the fireplace, I don't recommend it when you're dealing with something that could set you house on fire. People do put switches on fire places here though. You can use any switch for the fan as all HomeKit switches support timers. Make a scene that turns the fan on. Set an automation for when the fan turns on turn on the scene. Make sure that the timer setting at the bottom is set to how long you want it on.

​

Edit: Found this on a forum.

>I was able to get this to work, though with a much different setup than I was initially envisioning.

>
>The fireplace I was working used a low-voltage switch on the wall with a 2-wire cable between that and the fireplace guts (below the firebox). It also has 2 outlets in that same area: one labeled REMOTE and one labeled FAN. As far as I know, both outlets are always on and the labels are just for fun.

>
>Here is what I did:
- Caseta plug-in lamp dimmer plugged into one of the outlets
- Set this dimmer to switch mode (no dimming) - see Caseta Advanced Installation Guide for details
- Plugged a 5V DC power adapter I had laying around into the dimmer
- Connected the output of the DC adapter to the input of a relay. I used the Sunfounder 2-channel 5V relay module
- Cut the cable that went to the wall switch and connected it to the output of the relay instead of the switch

>
>This solution does completely disable the wall switch but - in my case - it was in a crappy location anyway.

>
>Some other notes on this:

>
>- I got a 2-channel relay module since it was cheap and readily available but only one channel was needed
- I was a bit worried about the heat in the area with the electronics but I measured the temperature of the dimmer with one of those point-and-read thermometers after the fireplace was on for a while and it came up at 105. The specs for the Caseta say the operating temp tops at 104 but it's been running for over a month now and - so far so good.

​

Use something like Honeywell's Aube RC840T-120 and you can connect any low-voltage thermostat to control that fan.

1. Nope, it is mounted through a couple custom brackets I made out of 90° aluminum stock that mount to 2 of the bolts that hold the bumper on.
   
2. I didn't run a relay. You can run a relay if you want, you will just needed a switched source (radio, cigarette lighter, etc.) to reference to turn the relay on when the car is on. That will keep you from accidentally draining the battery. I wanted to be able to run mine with the car off since I use it camping sometimes so I didn't go this route, just a fused connection. I did actually order a wiring kit for the switch and fuse which was plenty heavy (kit came 12 gauge copper stranded with the inline fuse holder and connectors and didn't draw more than 5 amps @ 12V, again just a random Amazon seller). I did source my own switch as I wanted one with the little plastic cover like this. I wouldn't bother with that again though. You can get inline blade fuse holders at most auto parts stores and the connectors at any hardware store. When I was looking at light bars, most on Amazon didn't come with the wiring hardware included so just pay attention to that.
   
3. Only other thought would be look into your local laws. I have never heard of a state where they are 100% illegal, but most states have rules for how you can mount them and such (min and max height, number, down road visibility, etc.). The safest bet is that if an officer asks, it is for off highway use only.

5 Pack - EPAuto 30/40 AMP Relay Harness Spdt 12V Bosch Style https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017VDI0GY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_J6h7BbAHCG8Q8

Pins 85 & 86 go between your transformer and doorbell (doesn't matter which way it's wired). The sensor goes to pins 87 and 30.

Edit to add: any Bosch style relay like that will work. I bought the 5 pack because I was going to use them for my alarm system to convert normally-open flood sensors to normally-closed (which is the only kind of sensor my alarm system can read) but the switching voltage was too high (but ended up being perfect for the doorbell)

As others have said, a relay is what you need. I have this one. It's designed with the Arduino in mind and can switch a 250 VAC , 10 A load, which should be plenty for your coffee maker. As a bonus, the trigger current is only 5 mA, so you can plug it directly into a digital pin and have it work. To turn the relay on, use:

digitalWrite(<pin number>, HIGH)

To turn it off use:

digitalWrite(<pin number>, LOW)

It requires 3 connections: 5V, GND, and signal.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B012IJ35VQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_OJN-AbA3J0G0W

Something like this, of you want you can go to your local hardware store, they will have switches there, just tell them you need one rated for 12 volts and 10 amps. I did that because all the ones on Amazon are a little expensive for switches IMO

You can look in to these relay modules they are cheap and easy to use. As for your EM interference on you previous project. Did you switch the relay with an output of the Arduino ? Because relay's are using around 50mA when switched while an output can only provide 20mA. The Arduino resets as a result.

How to tell if you have DSP. You will need the BM53 radio to add auxiliary to have Bluetooth streaming. Buy used on eBay. For non-nav vehicles, the radio is located in the dash (with the amp in the trunk), beneath the little flip-up panel and behind the MID. It's pretty simple to upgrade. BMW sells an auxiliary input retrofit kit for the BM53 radio. Pair that with an aux->Bluetooth device that you can keep in the glovebox.

I'd just get a pack off Amazon like this, includes the harnesses too.

These are pretty cheap and get the job done.

If you want to make this work with an actual thermostat, you just need a 120v heating relay. That takes the 120v heat wires, and gives you a 24v thermostat connection for a smart thermostat.

As long as the circuit is closed, does it matter how it got closed? Meaning, you can use any I/O module to complete the circuit and then hook up a Homekit switch to trigger the I/O module to close the circuit.

For instance, if you used something like this and connect one end to your fireplace (and I'm just using this module as an example as I don't know if it is compatible with your fireplace): https://www.amazon.com/Enclosed-AC-Protection-Bounce-Terminals/dp/B017743I7S/
and the other end to a Homekit switch or outlet. That should work, should it not ?

there are easier solutions but since this is DIY I recently put together a circuit using one of these
https://www.amazon.com/HiLetgo-Version-NodeMCU-Internet-Development/dp/B010O1G1ES/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1466965785&sr=8-1&keywords=nodemcu+v3

It's programmed via the arduino IDE and is simple enough with a bit of googling for any programmer to get working. I have it connected to one of these
https://www.amazon.com/SunFounder-Shield-Module-Arduino-Channel/dp/B00E0NTPP4/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1466965844&sr=8-4&keywords=arduino+relay

3 wires from the nodemcu to the relay. VCC, ground and one of the datapins. Just make sure you use the 5V pin for VCC as the 3.3V ones didn't work.

Then apply power to the relay and he nodemcu. I used an old 5V cellphone charger that I cut the plug off of and direct wired it to the boards. After that I made a short 6" extension cord and split one of the wires. It goes into the relay. After that it just works.

You will need a way to solder the wires and a breadboard lets you test before doing the final wiring.

I really wouldn't worry about relays failing. You aren't talking about tons of cycles or fast cycles, high amperage, or whatever. Using a SSR would be fine for sure, I made a PID to control a freezer ~10-15A draw using a 40A SSR that has run day and night for years without failure.
Here's one from amazon that I have used.

https://www.amazon.com/SunFounder-Channel-Optocoupler-Expansion-Raspberry/dp/B00E0NTPP4/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1494422744&sr=8-5&keywords=arduino+relay

You can use one of these with a cheap thermostat.

I personally have a relay tied into my smart house to control my basement baseboard heat.

If it requires line voltage control, it can be adapted using a relay- transformer like this one: Aube Technologies RC840T-120 Electromechanical Relay with Built In Relay https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00D5YLY2G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_WLZ3AbDVCCM0W

Buy a WeMo then power a relay like this to convert the Ac WeMo to a DC switch. I use this combo with smarthings to open my garage door.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B017743I7S/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1481691193&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=Enclosed+AC%2FDC+Power+Relay+with+Protection+%26+De-Bounce.+Screw+Terminals.+120V+Trigger+Input.

Ok well nice job deleting as much as you can it's very necessary on these bikes. Do you have a manual? I ha e a copy of a minimal wiring diagram I used on mine I can forward to you so you can trace your own wiring. Have you tested the LEDs? Most of these old bikes can't read a signal that small and need a relay (ex:AUDEW 2-Pin Electronic Turn Signal Flasher Relay Fix Motorcycle Turn Signal Hyper Flash https://www.amazon.com/dp/B011BTMDQM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_KmirzbTJDKYAQ)
With a 6.5 gallon tank it would be sad to only take advantage of 70 miles at a time.... Lol
Get yourself a Voltmeter and test the resistance on the ignition pack, THE STATOR (in case you were unaware... Stator is:the stationary portion of an electric generator. It's under the right side cover. Replacements are not easy to find...trust me...) you're actually at an advantage with no wiring on these bikes. The 80s Japanese bikes were notorious for tons of wiring for no reason.)

I don't know how proficient you are mechanically and I don't want to suggest something crazy and out of you're league... But look at this https://youtu.be/nFAnxpPOlnU

Wish I had a picture of when it was finished but I can't seem to find one... Here was my 80' xs850 http://i.imgur.com/TPY4UMy.jpg

Dew heater straps. They're basically cloth straps wrapped around nichrome wire. You need the strap and the controller.

Lots of examples on the market those are just the first to pop up on amazon.

Edit: They might be called dew straps/strips/bands ect. but they're all the same thing.

Instead of a resistor you can replace the blinker module with an adjustable $4 one from amazon:



https://www.amazon.com/AUDEW-Electronic-Signal-Flasher-Motorcycle/dp/B011BTMDQM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1494862870&sr=8-1&keywords=Blinker+relay

You need to replace the flasher unit with a led one. I got mine on Amazon {https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B011BTMDQM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1}

Maybe I'm not quite following, but wouldn't you use something like this bulb:
https://www.amazon.com/BYB-Ceramic-Infrared-Emitter-Brooder/dp/B00HFNZ59Q

plugged into this to secure it:
https://www.amazon.com/Simple-Deluxe-Listed-Aluminum-Reflector/dp/B01E9IY6US

with one of the wires cut and running through this to switch it on and off:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00E0NTPP4

These switches are petty cool: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0154JY8OA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_JJ7TCbCG3N2A3

I am not sure if you are asking how to do this as well as if it's ok to do it but Check out this relay.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00E0NTPP4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I use it to trigger my Garage door from a Pi. It also works with an Arduino.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017743I7S/

This opens/closes a relay that you can wire into a contact sensor of some sort. Plug it into the clapper and you can do whatever automation you want with it. Normally use these on control4 systems, so not sure what zwave/zigbee/usb contact sensors are out there.

You can connect it to an AC relay.

I use mine to open and close my garage door.

Step 1. If it is the cheapie electric baseboard heat, you most likely have a 120v or 240v thermostat. Find out which.

Step 2. You'll need this for 240 (or if you can find one to mount in a switch box, that would be better): http://www.amazon.com/Aube-RC840T-240-Switching-Electric-Transformer/dp/B0037MXM1C/ref=pd_sim_60_1?ie=UTF8&dpID=31RasVuVDpL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=1K9Z0QT4F1AHDX7W166G

Or this for 120v: http://www.amazon.com/Honeywell-RC840T-120-Electromechanical-Relay-Built/dp/B00D5YLY2G/ref=pd_sim_60_4?ie=UTF8&dpID=41c-k5UMUgL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=1K9Z0QT4F1AHDX7W166G

Step 3. Use the above relay to hook up an Insteon Thermostat.

I used a reed switch connected to a GPIO port to detect if the door is open. I used Twilio to send me an SMS. I used a relay board (like this one) in parallel with the manual pushbutton to toggle the door. And I used Python to serve the site. Let me know if you have specific questions.

ESUPPORT 12V 20A Red Cover Rocker Toggle Switch SPST ON/Off Car Truck Boat 2Pin Pack of 5 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0154JY8OA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_0v0RDb8XB2S8T


https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F352491845873

There ya go

Sample relay or mosfet

Try new relay. Just switched mine and it worked. If it's 2 prong try this one:

AUDEW 2-Pin Electronic Turn Signal Flasher Relay Fix Motorcycle Turn Signal Hyper Flash https://www.amazon.com/dp/B011BTMDQM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_hl0KDbNXGA6KB

http://www.amazon.com/GTR-Red-Start-Button-2009/dp/B004D0I11S

Actually only a bit under $50 for the button itself

What you really need are some of these

internal shot

Parts list:

• Pelican 1120 Case
  
  
• Induction Coil Module
  
  
  
• Mosfet
  
  
  
• Momentary Switch
  
  
• Power indicator light
  
  
• Toggle Switch
  
  
• Power Supply
  
  
• Glass Test Tube
  
  Tools:
  
  
• Glass Cutter
  
  
• Connectors I only used 2 of the prong connectors for the toggle switch
  
  STL for 3d printing:
  
  All three files
  
  Wiring diagram:
  
  Terrible MS paint Diagram

I use a Koogeek switch with this relay plugged in:

Enclosed AC/DC Power Relay with Protection & De-Bounce. Screw Terminals. 120V Trigger Input. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017743I7S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_xVgRzbR56SQAV

The relay senses the 120v and closes the circuit of the two wires from your fireplace. In my case the fireplace had an external thermostat connected to it. I took out the two wires from the thermostat switch and connected those two wires to the relay. Now when the relay senses current it closes the circuit of the fireplace switch but without adding any electricity to it.

It’s just an electrical connection. You’re basically going to bypass the +12v wire that activates the valve flaps from the control module with a +12v wire that is activated by an accessory source(think cigarette adapter, radio, etc.).

What I would do is use one of these:
https://www.amazon.com/AutoEC-Rocker-Toggle-Switch-Control/dp/B012IJ35VQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_6?keywords=12+volt+power+rocker+switch&qid=1566944665&s=gateway&sr=8-6

That way you can have it “always on” until you flip it into the other position, and have it managed by the control module. Essentially one of the connectors will go to the flap, the second one will be the +12v from the original source, and the third wire will be the +12v from a cigarette adapter (which should only be “on” when the ignition is on). It’s a bit more complicated than that since you’ll have to worry about heat shielding the wires, where they come into the cabin, and where you put the switch. You may have to remove some molding/trim/carpet but it shouldn’t be much harder than wiring up an aftermarket amp/sub.

If you are up to doing a bit of wiring you can put together a rig that will work.
To do so you need to get a powered relay. There may be some on Amazon. https://www.amazon.com/Enclosed-AC-Protection-Bounce-Terminals/dp/B017743I7S/ Maybe something similar to this one but maybe one that already has a 220 plug on it.
Then use a iDevices or iHome plug to power it.
If not sure about wiring get an electrician to handle it.
Not quite a standard way of doing it but it would work.

Personally, I would just go for the aux. Save yourself a ton of money, and don't worry about the bluetooth pairing. If you're dead set on bluetooth I apologize for not helping in that field. I don't know much pertaining to it.

Here is the aux kit: http://www.amazon.com/BMW-82-11-149-389/dp/B000PA00XM

Most simple relays I've used have 3 connections, allowing 2 choices - either NC or NO. Just wire it for what you need.
I can't help with ordering to CA - but this is one where you can see in the pic that you can wire it either way.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00E0NTPP4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_67eACbFK3XZPA

Those wires are going to be battery, flasher out, and ground. For standard filament bulbs, just buy a 2 prong standard mechanical relay and leave the ground disconnected. If you upgrade to LED bulbs, switching to a load independent relay (usually 3 prongs) will fix the fast blink issue.

In the 3 prong the coil side seeks ground for discharge through the additional ground, otherwise it has to discharge through the circuit. Because the load (resistance) is low with LED bulbs, the capacitor that controls the coil latch timing can discharge really fast and the flasher blinks fast or not at all. There are some electronic relays without a standard coil/cap that have a rheostat in them that allows you to adjust the discharge load. Those will be 2 prong - they discharge through the bulbs/circuit. The standard mechanical relays are available at any auto parts store.

Electronic solid state 2 prong with adjustable load:
https://www.amazon.com/AUDEW-Electronic-Signal-Flasher-Motorcycle/dp/B011BTMDQM/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1493815500&sr=8-4&keywords=electronic+flasher

Standard mechanical coil 2 prong:
https://www.amazon.com/Bussmann-NO-552-12-8-Thermal-Flasher/dp/B000GKAZCW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1493815609&sr=8-1&keywords=12v+flasher

3 prong with load independent grounded coil (my preferred type - these still need some load to function):
https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-Vehicle-Blinker-Flasher-0-02-20A/dp/B00BLZ9XQK/ref=pd_sbs_263_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00BLZ9XQK&pd_rd_r=B9EGDRDCQ81ZH9VWKT7A&pd_rd_w=SRsBN&pd_rd_wg=UBlTA&psc=1&refRID=B9EGDRDCQ81ZH9VWKT7A

I'm using one of THESE along with a MonoPrice garage door Z-Wave tilt sensor, and an old Z wave outlet I had laying around. Together, I built a template cover device out of it. The tilt sensor is the feedback and the open/close commands are scripts. Each open/close script basically turns on the Z wave switch (and therefore powers the relay), then turns it off after 3 seconds. I added conditions inside each script as well. For open, it ensures someone is home and the alarm is not on, otherwise it won't work. There is also a 30 second delay, then a condition that the door is actually open or close and a notification if the proper position is not met.

I can try to post the config later on if you want it. Don't have access to it right now.

my idea would be to just drill some holes into the existing plastic-covers and install something like this or this

chances of getting a oem Kia switch/button will be hard, since the switches will be sold as spare parts, thus already labeled.

I have a gas fireplace that was controlled by a switch on the wall. The switch was a low voltage switch that essentially just connected two wires together to turn on the fireplace and disconnected them to turn off the fireplace. The electronics that control the fireplace are behind a panel underneath the fireplace, and there is a decent amount of room and a power strip in there. I believe most gas fireplaces controlled by a switch on the wall have a similar setup.

So what I did was plugged in a Lutron Lamp smart switch (https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-Wireless-Lighting-PD-3PCL-WH-Assistant/dp/B00KHSXB60/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=lutron+lamp+dimmer&qid=1564055576&s=gateway&sprefix=lutron+lamp+&sr=8-3) to the power strip below the fireplace, and then I plugged in this AC/DC relay to that (https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B017743I7S?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title). What the relay does is just make a connection between its terminals whenever the outlet it’s plugged into (the Lutron Lamp switch in this case) is turned on. I then spliced the wires going to the switch on the wall and connected them to the relay. Then, the last step was to pair a Lutron Pico remote / switch (https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00KLAXOE8?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title) to the Lutron lamp switch, and then I replaced the switch on the wall with the Lutron Pico switch. Now I can turn the fireplace off and on from a switch on the wall still, but I can also control the fireplace from HomeKit, Google Home, Alexa, etc. I also set up some rules to automatically turn off the fireplace if it’s been on for 3 hours, and to notify me if it turns on and I’m not home. These are just in case we accidentally hit the button to turn it on while we’re in bed or away or whatever.

I'm still in the middle of adding a filament sensor to my OctoPrint setup so I may be missing something, but I think you should be able to use that plugin to achieve pausing a print when the power disappears. The 'Filament Sensor Reloaded' plugin just looks at a GPIO line that you select to determine if filament is present or missing and you can pause the print. If you connect the GPIO to a voltage from the same source as the printer, then you can detect the power removed from the printer and pause. A simple way to do that would be a USB power adapter with a voltage divider from 5V to 3.3V or you could use this power detector - https://www.amazon.com/Enclosed-AC-Protection-Bounce-Terminals/dp/B017743I7S/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1506368549&sr=8-6&keywords=iot+relay#Ask

For $9, I'd probably buy the power detector.

Like I said, I haven't experimented with OctoPrint pausing yet, but I would expect the same behavior as pressing the pause button.

Yes,
Two issues.
1.you need a digital flasher. I use these. AUDEW 2-Pin Electronic Turn Signal Flasher Relay Fix Motorcycle Turn Signal Hyper Flash https://www.amazon.com/dp/B011BTMDQM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_i_O4o4AbK3MZFNH
2.most Japanese MC’c back feed the dash indicator ( TS) from the signals themselves. The guaranteed and easy fix ( without all the resistors and janky wiring is to use one of these. Kuryakyn 4709 Diode Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000TK7XMY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_i_s7o4AbN8C7F71
Then get into your headlight bucket or under the dash. Find the turn signal wires and the indicator socket. Pull out the indicator bulb holder and cut the two wires going to it. Wire up the Diode. 1 red wire connects to each right and left positive wires. The blue wire goes to the center conductor ( wire you cut ) of the indicator bulb. The black wire connects to the other wire of the indicator bulb. The black wire goes to ground - any ground wire. The left over wire ( you cut ) from the original Indicator wire just gets taped / shrink wrapped over as it is no longer used.
This will fix everyone’s “LED lights don’t work, don’t flash, stay on” problems as long as the original lights worked. This is your fix. If you ever change back to stock. It still works with no changes. This works on every Japanese bike that doesn’t work correctly with LEDS. Some bikes you can get away with changing the indicator bulb for an LED as an led bulb is a diode, but this solution only works if they didn’t backfeed the Indicator light across the negative terminal ( outer side ) of the bulb.

This should work for your relays: http://www.amazon.com/SunFounder-Channel-Shield-Arduino-Raspberry/dp/B00E0NTPP4/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1449242914&sr=8-4&keywords=arduino+relay+board

It's "meant" for an Arduino, but should work with the Pi with a bit of work. It triggers on a 5v input from the Arduino, so you'd need to get the 3.3v line from the Pi's GPIO up to 5v to make it work.

You'll want to figure out the pinout of that plug with a voltmeter. I'm guessing that one of those is common and the other two are for separate banks of LEDs. To control these, you'd run the common straight through and interrupt the two banks with the relays.

As far as Pi vs Arduino, you'll have to do some tinkering either way. Neither have a RTC (real time clock) built in, so you'll either need an RTC shield or connect the Pi to a network connection so it can get the time via NTP. The Pi's main disadvantage is the 3.3v GPIO, while the Arduino's output is natively 5v.

Personally I'd use the Arduino and a cheap RTC: http://www.amazon.com/Donop-DS3231-AT24C32-precision-Arduino/dp/B00HCB7VYS/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1449243489&sr=8-2&keywords=arduino+rtc

I tinkered with two different methods, both of them use Gordon's WiringPi library to manipulate the GPIO. One of the setups uses a PowerSwitch Tail II to power off the entire machine and the other method used a simple relay to toggle the reset button. My preferred method was the firs method because it FORCED power off no matter how frozen the mobo was.

By the way - the close observer will notice that the PowerSwitch Tail is really just a relay enclosed in a box. I prefer to use it when handling 120V AC so I don't make shiny sparks.