I have always wanted to have a "smart" radio. My parents have always owned various Pioneer, Kenwood, and Sony radio decks, but they always had their cons to them (clunky OS, different type of touch screens that suck, lack of features, very expensive $800-$2000), useless features, etc.). I wanted something that runs Android 6.0+. I thought about using iPads, but I didn't want to waste a bunch of money for something that is going to be used in my car only. I wanted a budget friendly "smart" radio. That is when I found the perfect tablet, the Nexus 7 2013. Cheap, powerful, Android 6, compact, somewhat thin and small, and best part, it fits in a double-din radio deck.

After finding various projects that people have used, I decided to order a bunch of stuff from Amazon (everything was bought with Prime) and see if I could get this to work. It took about 3 weeks to work out all the bugs, but it runs perfect now. I never found anyone that did this mod in a Nissan Pathfinder, so that was difficult going on my own, reading various wiring diagrams and getting power, sound and steering wheel controls to work. After lots of testing each wire, and lots of trial and errors, everything is working how I want it too.

Questions that people have asked me that I can remember on the top of my head:

Q: How do you turn the tablet on and off if the power button is blocked?

A: Easy, with Timur's Kernel, and the USB car charger hooked up to the accessory power, when I turn my key on/start my car, the tablet detects power from the USB, which wakes the screen/powers on. (ELI5: there are 2 power sources in your radio, a constant 12 volt power, and an accessory key power. So when you turn the key to ACC or ON, it gives power to the tablet, but when you turn the key off, it takes away power from the USB port.)

Q: How does it hold up in the wonderful California heat?

A: Shockingly very well. It hasn't given me any issues in ~95F (+35C) degree weather. There was a day where it was 115F (46C) degrees outside, and that is when the tablet finally said NOPE and started locking up and freezing due to the ridiculous heat. After running my AC for a few minutes, it cooled the tablet down to reasonable temperature and ran normally again. When my car is parked, I have a windshield sun shade that helps a ton with keeping the sun off my black/gray dash, and/or microfiber towels over the screen to keep the sun off. If it's super hot, I just take the tablet/radio/air conditioner part out of my car and bring it inside (not that hard to remove).

Q: How do you control the volume?

A: With the JoyCon EXC, it translates either CAN, IBUS, resistive, or digital steering wheel control signals, to USB keyboard signals that the tablet can see. I have the Joycon setup to have Volume UP/DOWN, Screen ON/OFF, PAUSE/PLAY, and PREVIOUS/NEXT. Click here for more information.

Q: How do you listen to the radio/music?

A: Spotify Premium. While I can spend ~$10 on a radio antenna to USB to listen to over-the-air radio stations, I never listen to the radio. When I had my old stock radio, I never listened to the radio part. I always used my 3.5mm jack to plug in my phone for Spotify. Great perk about being a broke college student is getting 50% off Spotify Premium.

Q: Can you/do you watch TV or movies on it while you drive?

A: I can, but I don't. Pay attention to the freakin' road.

Q: How do you get internet on it since it's a WiFi version?

A: I use my Bluetooth hotspot on my phone to get internet for Waze, Google Maps, etc. I can also use the WiFi hotspot, but that uses more power. I can drive from California to Idaho running Waze the whole way and it uses about ~300MB of data.

Q: Can you make phone calls with it?

A: This has been something I have been trying, but have not had success with yet. I use an app called [TabletTalk] (https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.apdroid.tabtalk&hl=en), but it doesn't push the microphone/sound through the tablet. I gave up on this since I have a Samsung Gear 2 Neo smartwatch that has a microphone/speaker on it. Some day I will explore with this more.

Q: How do you power your speakers if you removed the radio?

A: I lucked out big time with this issue because my Nissan Pathfinder has the Bose System built in. That means that there's an amplifier already installed that powers the speakers. So the tablet sends the sound to the Behringer UCA202 DAC, that then converts to a 3.5mm headphone jack that then splits into the Left Front/Rear, Right Front/Rear, and dual subwoofer channels that go to the car wiring harness that then goes to the amp. This saves me hundreds of dollars. For vehicles without a stock amplifier that rely on the radio for power, that is when you will need to buy an amplifier to power the speakers. My 12 inch subwoofer also plugs into the DAC and works perfectly.

Q: I see the reverse camera, how did you get that to work with the tablet? How does the tablet know when you are in reverse?

A: There were 2 ways to get this to work, one way is by video detection, or the other way is by the JoyCon EXC. I chose to do the video detection way because it was simpler and waiting about one second for the app to open was fine with me. I use an app called EasyCap viewer.

Q: Why is there paper over the JoyCon, EasyCap, USB charger etc.?

A: The plastic pieces over the EasyCap and USB charger were bulky/broken. The JoyCon didn't come with a cover. Paper was the easiest/closest thing I had at the moment. If only I had a 3D printer. Someday..

Q: Why is the mic in the vent and not somewhere else? Doesn't the wind from the HVAC cause problems?

A: It was a last-second add-on and just put it in there without having to rewire the harness. I also didn't know where to move it that made it look "stock". I've gotten some great opinions on where to move it! Thanks for those!

I'll add more common questions here when I think of them.

Breakdown of Parts:

Price | Part
---|---
$100 | Nexus 7 2013 32GB WiFi (flo) (bought from /r/hardwareswap)
$5 | Nissan Radio Wiring Harness
$6 | AmazonBasics 4-Port USB 2.0 Hub
$20 | Esky EC135-05 Rearview Camera
$95 | JoyCon EXC
$7 | Tendak OTG USB cable
$30 | Behringer UCA202
$7 | VideoSecu Amplified CCTV Microphone
$25 | Timur's Kernel v4.0 for Nexus 7 2013
$10 | Maxboost Car Charger
Free/Other/Already owned | EasyCap USB Video Capture Card, RCA cables, 3.5mm audio cables, USB cables, 12-16 AWG wire, grinder, zipties, paper, hotglue, other random stuff.
TOTAL COST | ~$305

TL;DR: Modified my Android tablet to work as a replacement for my radio. Worth it? YES. Best Radio Ever.

Have Questions? Ask away. Since I had to learn most this crap on my own, I can share my experience with others and give pointers in the right direction.

EDIT #1: Formatting.

EDIT #2: RIP my inbox. I would never have guessed this would get this popular. I'm just speechless. Wow. Thanks everyone! Trying my best to reply to everyone! Also added another question to this.

Thanks for the reply. that sucks about the budget, a lot of others found setups that were well within my constraints.

> First, make sure to check all your resources before popping over to your local sound shop and letting them convince you to buy some overpriced shit.

>Amazon and Ebay are your friends! Use crutchfield and sonicelectronix for info and standard >pricing, then check Amazon/Ebay for the BIG discounts. Tell crutchfield or Amazon what you're driving and they'll give you a list of parts that fit.

>Second, even with only listening to rock music, trust me you will want a small subwoofer to fill out your system. Nothing major, it doesn't have to blow your head >off or anything. Just adds a little low end to balance out your sound.

>So, if I were to build a decent budget system for your Ranger, this is what I'd do:

> Head unit (radio). Alpine, Pioneer, Kenwood, JVC are really the only brands I would consider. Here's a decent Pioneer for the money. ~ $68

> You'll also need a wiring harness for your aftermarket radio to work in your truck. Not a big deal. ~ $4

> Okay, speaker time. Crutchfield says your truck has 5 1/4" in the doors, 6 1/2" in the kick panels and some random speaker behind the seat. For our purposes, let's say you just disconnect the rear speaker as it will be completely unnecessary. Here are some Rockfords for the doors that won't break the bank. ~ $62 / And here's some 6 1/2" Alpines for the kick panels ~ $62

> Subwoofer. Okay, now you may reach this point and say, "You know, I'll be fine with just this! Listen to how much better it sounds!" Trust all of us, a woofer is a good investment. For your purposes, I've tried to leave some wiggle room as far as budget goes to allow for a decent sub, box, amp and amp kit. A lot of these people will say build your own box, and if you're handy and would like to try, then go for it! I'm just not as averse to prefab as most people around here, so I say just find a decent prefab wedge box that will fit behind your seat. A little browsing and Bam! box and woofer. That's perfect for you. ~ $109

> Amplifier. You don't need anything crazy. Keeping with the Rockford theme, here's a decent 250w amp for that sub. ~ $103

> Amp kit. ~ $33

>And the grand total is: ~ $441 ($196 without the stuff for the subwoofer)

>Now, obviously you can play around with the pieces of this system for preference and price, but this was just what I could throw together in 20 minutes or so. Research, research, research. Half of this game is finding parts you like and reading/forming opinions about brands, etc. Hope I helped.

and

>Oh I can answer this one easy. My first truck was Ranger.
>You can easily get a nice sound system going for cheap. Check out Crutchfield for getting equipment. They make >it dead simple to install most components.
>I recommend getting a CD player.head unit that has bluetooth and usb inputs. You can get a pioneer or kenwood for cheap. Or spend a little more for an Alpine.
>Replace the stock speakers with stock sized aftermarket ones. You don't even have to spend a lot of money. Honestly, you could get away with spending less than >$250 on the whole set up.
>You will have a solid system at this point. You can then research adding a sub for the bass.

>Here is some that fit your truck;

>Head Unit

>Door SPeakers

>Additional Rear Speakers - these will need boxes since there is no spot for installation.


>Total of about $220.

I'm sure there can be good setups found for my budget?

If you want it to be easy as possible, you can use one of these (and you'll need to pick up a maestro sw or rr):

https://www.amazon.com/AutoHarnessHouse-Aftermarket-Installation-compatible-2016-2019/dp/B07GD8627K/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=autoharnesshouse+brz&qid=1573219865&sr=8-1

​

That covers the steering wheel controls and camera, antenna amp, and factory amp. You'll need to add a pin and wire on the harness (it's included) to power up the factory amp and door speakers. Also, ignore the instructions included on the two 5-pin connectors - just connect the two on the harness together if it's not shipped as such. If you want to try to keep costs down and make your own, you'll need to wire in a voltage converter for the camera power feed.

You'll also need the standard Toyota harness for the rest of the speakers. You can use one of AutoHarnessHouse direct connect Pioneer ones, or just make your own a little cheaper. I believe this is the part, but please double check - I don't have the part number handy right now (You can actually get these at Best Buy, it's in their computer system):
https://www.amazon.com/Metra-70-1761-Wiring-Harness-Speaker/dp/B0002BEQJ8/ref=sr_1_1?crid=344R0OVLJ7ACT&keywords=metra+toyota+harness&qid=1573220037&sprefix=metra+toyo%2Caps%2C155&sr=8-1

​

For the 4500, I also recommend either wiring up their GPS antenna, or just using an adapter for the OEM one (I went this route just to keep things clean). This pack contains the correct adapter (it's the one with the bright green end, maybe you can find it standalone cheaper):

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01K03PORU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

If you don't hook up the GPS antenna, the head unit will throw up an error message every time you start up a navigation app in AndroidAuto (it'll still work, it's just annoying).

Lastly, don't forget an antenna adapter and (optionally the OEM USB port adapter cable). I opted not to use the USB port since I have a high speed charger that uses a 12v socket. Same as above, please double check this to make sure it is the right one, but here's what the antenna adapter looks like:

https://www.amazon.com/Metra-40-LX11-Antenna-Adaptor-Select/dp/B00JYHSDKO/ref=sxbs_sxwds-stvp?keywords=toyota+antenna+adapter&pd_rd_i=B00JYHSDKO&pd_rd_r=aae8b955-0220-497c-bcd6-480183748bd8&pd_rd_w=bmQ4P&pd_rd_wg=7ZU9O&pf_rd_p=a6d018ad-f20b-46c9-8920-433972c7d9b7&pf_rd_r=F20PSH58JCQN60PP1T5G&qid=1573220626

You'll need to wire in the blue wire to power the antenna amp. Don't hook it up to a constant 12v feed (yello), either use a switched feed, or wire it to the matching blue feed on the back of the harness (it's the one that feeds out of the two pins jumped together by a blue wire).

​

Sorry I can't be 100% on the last couple of adapters - if you have trouble confirming feel free to DM me and I will be happy to check when I get home from work, I kept the packaging for later reference, and again, Best Buy does have these in their computer, so even if your local one doesn't carry them, they should at least be able to give you the part number.

I've just changed out my factory stereo with a new Alpine deck and couldn't have been happier on how easy it was. As long as you have the right wiring harness (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0007KPRK6), dash adapter kit (http://www.amazon.com/Metra-99-6505-Dodge-98-UP-Pocket/dp/B0007WTFB6) and antenna adapter (http://www.amazon.com/Metra-40-CR10-Chrysler-Antenna-Adapter/dp/B0002BEQNE) then you'll be happy. You can buy all three from Amazon for less than $20.
Installation is a breeze too - stereo manufacturers have standardized on cable colors so hooking everything up to the harness was easy. To get the factory stereo out it takes popping out the vent with a screwdriver, 2 phillips head screws hold in the front fascia and then that pops out. 4 phillips head screws hold in the stereo and one 10mm nut on the back of the stereo. This pops out easy. Then you plug the new wiring harness in, plug the new antenna adapter in and screw the new stereo in the dash adapter back into the holes. Pop everything back into place and you should be good to go.
super_noodle has good points about the factory speakers - you definitely want to replace those as well. Super easy job as well as long as you have the right harness adapters (Amazon is a great place eh?)
Good luck and let me know if you need any more advice or assistance.

First, make sure to check all your resources before popping over to your local sound shop and letting them convince you to buy some overpriced shit.

Amazon and Ebay are your friends! Use crutchfield and sonicelectronix for info and standard pricing, then check Amazon/Ebay for the BIG discounts. Tell crutchfield or Amazon what you're driving and they'll give you a list of parts that fit.

Second, even with only listening to rock music, trust me you will want a small subwoofer to fill out your system. Nothing major, it doesn't have to blow your head off or anything. Just adds a little low end to balance out your sound.

So, if I were to build a decent budget system for your Ranger, this is what I'd do:

• Head unit (radio). Alpine, Pioneer, Kenwood, JVC are really the only brands I would consider. Here's a decent Pioneer for the money. ~ $68
  
  
• You'll also need a wiring harness for your aftermarket radio to work in your truck. Not a big deal. ~ $4
  
  
• Okay, speaker time. Crutchfield says your truck has 5 1/4" in the doors, 6 1/2" in the kick panels and some random speaker behind the seat. For our purposes, let's say you just disconnect the rear speaker as it will be completely unnecessary. Here are some Rockfords for the doors that won't break the bank. ~ $62 / And here's some 6 1/2" Alpines for the kick panels ~ $62
  
  
• Subwoofer. Okay, now you may reach this point and say, "You know, I'll be fine with just this! Listen to how much better it sounds!" Trust all of us, a woofer is a good investment. For your purposes, I've tried to leave some wiggle room as far as budget goes to allow for a decent sub, box, amp and amp kit. A lot of these people will say build your own box, and if you're handy and would like to try, then go for it! I'm just not as averse to prefab as most people around here, so I say just find a decent prefab wedge box that will fit behind your seat. A little browsing and Bam! box and woofer. That's perfect for you. ~ $109
  
  
• Amplifier. You don't need anything crazy. Keeping with the Rockford theme, here's a decent 250w amp for that sub. ~ $103
  
  
• Amp kit. ~ $33
  
  And the grand total is: ~ $441 ($196 without the stuff for the subwoofer)
  
  Now, obviously you can play around with the pieces of this system for preference and price, but this was just what I could throw together in 20 minutes or so. Research, research, research. Half of this game is finding parts you like and reading/forming opinions about brands, etc. Hope I helped.

There are 3 different connectors that you'll have to hook up to the connector that comes with the head unit that plugs into the head unit itself. The other 3 connectors are VERY easy to install. 0 electrical engineering education, but common sense and the color coded instructions on the back of the packaging explains all you need to know.

Radio Antenna harness

Main connection (two main connectors that came out of the factory head unit)

USB Connector (if your car came with usb at the bottom right of the center console)

Should mention that the stock AUX connection won't function. You will have to run an extension from the back of the head unit to somewhere in your car. I routed mine to the left side of the passenger seat held up by this thing.


I don't use the microphone for bluetooth so that's not connected. I don't plan on using my head unit for displaying for any video sources so I didn't bother hooking up the hand brake bypass. The GPS antenna I just stuck to some metal plate that was inside the head unit cavity (pretty strong magnet and pretty accurate).

You may want to pick up a bracket like this. to fill in the rest of the head unit cavity along the sides. I'm not too sure if this is the exact one for the head unit. Crutchfield automatically told me what parts I would need to completely setup the head unit including the bracket and connectors. I couldn't find yours on the site so I can't tell you exactly which bracket to get. They're both Pioneer head units so it's worth a try. The bracket is a generic bracket made for most Toyota cavities to support double DIN sized head units. I had to do some slight Dremel work to get everything to line up with the stock mounting bracket. A solid afternoon with everything and I was set by the end of the day.

I had to contact OEM Audio Plus about how to get power to their amplifier because they have a replacement harness for the stock harness. But that's information that doesn't pertain to you unless you own their system with a subwoofer.

Tl;dr: Links 1-3 are what you need to connect everything. Link 4 is some random accessory I bought that happened to work things out. Link 5 is a bracket adapter to the stock bracket. Last link is the site that showed me all the stuff I needed and I just looked them all up on Amazon.

So, I have the 2019, but these speakers are compatible with anything that supports a 3.5" speaker on the dashboard.

---

That said, the stock tweeters are shite. I got a pair of JBL CLUB 3020 to fill in some of the missing mid-high. It's like a night and day difference.

The stock speakers accepts a proprietary audio plug that's a white box with 4 cables going back into the dash. The new JBLs are just bare connectors because they are universal. I didn't want to cut the wires, so I found an adapter here.

It was very easy to install:

• Pop off the speaker grill with a credit card.
  
• Unscrew the stock speaker
  
• Unplug the stock speaker
  
• Plug the adapter into the wires coming from the car
  
• Plug the wires from the adapter into the new speakers
  
• Screw in the new speakers
  
• Replace the speaker grill
  
  Took about 10 minutes each speaker.
  
  ---
  
  I intend to rip off the doors are replace those 6.5" speakers with 4 JBL CLUB 6520 speakers.
  
  Even without an amp the better quality speaker makes a world of difference.
  
  I will probably add an amp and a sub at some point, but that's down the road. I'll post again when I replace the door speakers and I'd be happy to assist if you are doing the same with a 2019.

• Potato
  
• Fancy Potato
  
• DMR Potato. $110, but close enough.
  
• Nice Mobile Antenna + mount
  
• Cheapie, but still good mobile antenna
  
• RTL-SDR
  
• Upconverter for your new RTL-SDR
  
• A snazzy enclosure for your new upconverter for your new RTL-SDR
  
• A bunch of RG8X coax
  
• Or about half as much RG-213
  
• A chest harness if you do event volunteer work or just like to play whacker.
  
• A nice desk stand to organize all your HT's
  
• Dry or wet dummy loads
  
• Raspberry Pi starter kit
  
• A Ham Radio Deluxe license
  
• A bitchin' yagi antenna
  
• Hamsticks and dipoles and verticals, oh my!
  
• High Sierra JAWS mount. Ridiculously useful.
  
• Antenna tuner or a nicer one for a tad over.
  
• Antenna analyzer
  
• Cheap straight key or a nice paddle for a bit over budget.
  
• Coax switch
  
• Powerpole all the things!
  
• Rigrunner for all the stuff you just powerpoled.
  
• Scanner
  
• Headset
  
• Analog or a digital SWR/watt meter
  
• A Pelican case to start working on your go box.
  
• A sweet atomic wall clock for the shack.
  
  That's all I can think of for the moment. I may add to the list as I think of more cool sub $100 ham toys.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  

I just bought a '14 GT which is essentially the same internals as the 2011. I went with these Polk DB571's. Took me about an hour and a half to install, but it all went flawlessly and they sound incredibly better than the stock crap that came with it. Sync calls now sound clear and nice whereas before they were muffled and flat. They do not need an amplifier and they are so much better than stock.

Also make sure you buy 2 of these as well so you don't have to do any fancy wiring. Each pack comes with 2. And also a set of these so you don't damage anything taking the doors and trunk shelf apart.

Here is a crazy useful video on how to install them.

Total cost for two sets of speakers and tools to install them, about $130. This is of course assuming you have a ratchet set available.

Ok mobile at the moment do I can't dig too far in but here's some quick results that look like they should work.


[Scosche NN03B Wire Harness to Connect An Aftermarket Stereo Receiver for Select 1995-Up Infiniti/Nissan] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0007KPS0A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_s1NvCbF8GSD2Y)


[Metra Electronics 40-NI12 Antenna Cable to Aftermarket Radio Adapter for Select 2007-Up Infiniti/Nissan Vehicles] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000PANZ7U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_t4NvCbTQJXTKT)

The job was simple enough if you're familiar with wiring. Match the functions of the harness that comes with the stereo with the adapter, crimp then together and bolt it all back together.

One thing to note is that there is no ground in the factory wiring. You will need to run one separately. I'd suggest hitting a bolt to the chassis nearby to minimize any ground loops.

I'm sure you can find a good write up over at the nextera forums if you get stuck.

Another note of caution. The two metal retaining clips in the bezel love to scratch the dash. Cover it with a cloth to save the surfaces.

Hi! sorry for the late delay. I have successfully installed a single dim radio. Besides some fun, materials you will need:

-A toyota wiring harness. Anyone will do (1987+) this will take your stock radio harness and allow you to connect an aftermarket radio without having to hack up your current truck. (this is good in case you ever need to go back to a stock radio)

I have installed a JOYING 8'' touch screen, single dim radio. PLEASE buy this unit, as hino's stock holder for the radio is specific for their unit, and does not have a typical radio style / slide in radio harness. there are pan screws that hold the radio in.
Get this radio:
https://www.amazon.com/Android-1024x600-Navigation-Bluetooth-Hotspot/dp/B01MCVP5HD/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1491391353&sr=8-3&keywords=joying+single+din

Get this harness:

https://www.amazon.com/Scosche-Harness-1987-Up-Speaker-Connector/dp/B00009UHKW


you will need m4 bolts (x4) to hold the radio in.

You will need to have a grinder to grind down some dimples in the stock radio holder, so the new one fits nice and flush.

Here's some images!:

http://imgur.com/a/lOJOy

Yeah the HU in the Subaru’s have a terrible output. Face your subs toward the tail end of the car not towards you. As far as those CompC’s, they’re a good budget buy I suppose. They aren’t very accurate in the bass notes but they can “thump”. As far as quality tho, the surrounds are made of a foam type material and deteriorate after a while (longevity depending on weather and useage). I personally would have spent the extra cash on the CompR’s, they sound a lot better and can take more of a beating and will last longer.

I would definitely consider a new HU, and get the Maestro RR harness module and the correct SU2 Wiring Harness. If you’re going to replace a HU in a newer car this is the way to go IMO. It retains A LOT of features and actually gives you features your car may not have had thagvare pretty cool. Kenwood imo has the cleanest looking HU. You don’t need to buy the top of the line but don’t buy the cheapest one either. I hope this is a good starting point?

Edit:fixed link

My son just installed this into his '91 and he likes it. We ordered the cubby from Moss Miata when it was on sale recently (still cost about $30 with shipping) because it makes up for the odd height of the combined opening shared by the stereo head unit and the cubby. A standard 1 DIN cubby will be too short and too wide. Also, because of the width issue, he was not able to use the face frame with the radio, but we mounted using the holes that allow it to stick out just a little bit. The existing factory bracket worked perfectly, no need for the mounting sleeve.

The nice thing about that digital media receiver is that it is not as deep as a CD-player unit, so it was easier to manage, and lighter! He ran the rear-mount USB and Aux cables under the center console and through the hole in back where the fuel release lever comes in--no drilling required. The hardest part was probably removing the eyeball vents.

Also order this if you still have your factory harness: http://smile.amazon.com/dp/B0002BETW2

Everyone's going to have a different opinion on what to buy, but I'll take a stab...

Electronics:

• Receiver - $140, has 10 band EQ, full crossover setup, and time alignment capabilities
  
• 5 channel amp - $230 - has crossover settings to allow setup of active front stage
  
  Speakers:
  
  There are 2 directions you can go here, active front stage, or passive with rear fill. I'm going to give you an active front stage setup with no rear speakers. Door drivers for this car are difficult due to the shallow mounting depth so I stuck with speakers that are less than 2.5" deep
  
  
• 5.25" woofers - $150
  
• 1" tweeters - $150
  
  Subwoofer:
  
  
• 12" Subwoofer - $160
  
  Accessories:
  
  
• Dash Kit - $13
  
• Wire Harness - $7
  
• Front speaker adapter - $10
  
• 4x8 sheet MDF. screws, glue, etc. from hardware store for building sub enclosuse: $74
  
• Speaker terminal kit for sub box - $6
  
• Amp wiring kit - $60
  
• 16 gauge speaker wire - $20 (need more for active front stage run)
  
• 12 gauge speaker wire - $20 (for your subwoofer)
  
• Sound deadending kit 40 sq ft - $100
  
• Other random install accessories, tools, and little gotcha stuff: $60
  
  Grand total: $1,200

Yes. I have a pioneer w4400nex in my 2018 wrx base model. Great headunit with wireless CarPlay. It’s relatively plug and play with a harness from autoharnesshouse. Here are all the links:

AutoHarnessHouse Aftermarket... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GD8627K?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Direct wire harness for Pioneer... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078GBDRVX?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Maestro ADS-MSW Universal Analog Steering Wheel Interface https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00J4W10XG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Jg22Db6PFF6R1

Need this to connect FM radio to new Headunit:
Aftermarket Radio Antenna Adapter by Vehicle Aerial Stereo Converter Cable, DIN (Motorola Type) to Antenna Terminal https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07QNL9QQ8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_7l22DbVWFF1K2

Need this if you want to retain factory USB port:
Metra Electronics AX-SUBUSB Multicolored Subaru 2011 & Up 4-Pin USB Adapter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JYTLW14/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_do22DbN1SNNSH

This is the dash kit to make the headunit fit properly:
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_142SU2031B/Scosche-SU2031B-Dash-Kit-Gloss-Black.html

Those are all the harnesses/wires you’ll need to make it plug and play. The USB adapter might not work if your car has 2 USB ports in the center console. This shouldn’t be a problem anyways since CarPlay is wireless. The USB ports will still charge your phone regardless. If you have the base wrx, it’ll be fine. On YouTube there are plenty of install vids if you ever feel confused.
Edit: the guy from autoharnesshouse (Brian) is also very friendly if you have any questions about the harness, just email him.

OK. So here is where I am. I have decided to first work on installing an aftermarket DOUBLE-DIN head unit with Bluetooth wireless speakerphone, Aux-in, etc. (and I will do the amp + subwoofer in the next phase).

So far I've purchased:

1. Dash Kit which is apparently appropriate for my 1999 Lexus LS400: Scosche LS2085B
   
2. Wire Harness Kit which someone on Amazon reported worked flawlessly for an aftermarket stereo in their 1998 Lexus LS400: [Metra 70-1761 Radio Wiring Harness] (http://www.amazon.com/Metra-70-1761-Wiring-Harness-Speaker/dp/B0002BEQJ8/ref=cm_srch_res_rtr_3)
   
   Now (I believe) the only thing left for me to purchase is a double-din aftermarket head unit. Do you happen to know of any that would be compatible with this setup? Or am I pretty much able to use any head unit I want because I've installed a dash kit?
   
   Thank you so, so, so much. I can't tell you how much your help means.

I'm really only looking for the Bluetooth/AUX connections. Will this work for that? Or is there a better solution?

A wiring harnesss like this? I didn't realize you had to wire each connection up to an after market stereo. Meh, shouldn't be that bad.

Am I better off just getting something like this?

This is a great thread! I'm ordering parts and preparing for my own install into a 2013 Subaru Crosstrek and I've been concerned with the issues people are reporting with steering wheel controls. It sounds like bypassing the ASWC unit and going directly into the head unit and programming the buttons there did the trick for you though? Does MODE button work to change modes? Does the VOICE button work for activating Siri? Would you mind sharing which parts you used to build your custom cable?

The harness I purchased actually includes the SWC wires compared to most harnesses that don't, so maybe this puts me in a good spot for being able to make this work correctly? https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01D9K3L44/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It's super simple actually. I would recommend looking at a video or two and see how its done. here the stuff I used for mine if you're interested in at least looking it up. It's nice to be able to do it yourself and save on crazy install fees.

Pioneer AVH-2300NEX Multimedia DVD Receiver

Metra 70-1730 Receiver Wiring Harness

Metra 40-HD10 Antenna Adapter

iDatalink Maestro ADS-MSW Steering Wheel Control Adapter

APPS2Car Parking Brake Bypass

Duttek USB 3.0 Flush Mount Cable

This. Mkv is fine on the nex. To play on motion you'll need a toggle switch or just buy a bypass for like 7 bucks.... they're all the same no reason to buy the "micro bypass" that's like 20+ bucks.... this is what I use but anything similar will work or you can build you own toggle... it's pretty simple too if you want to go that route... just ask if you care to go that route.

This might be an elaborate way of answering your first question, but mostly I wanted to write out my experience of doing this exact thing. Also apparently I need to split this up into 2 replies.

​

I have an AVH-W4400NEX and a 2012 Prius Plug-In. After buying all the stuff I needed...

• The head unit
  
• Maestro ADS-MRR
  
• Maestro HRN-RR-TO2 Plug and Play T-Harness for TO2 Toyota Vehicles (this will be different for other cars)
  
• Maestro Acc-SAT-TO2 Sat Radio and GPS Antenna adaptors for TO2 Vehicles (this will be different for other cars)
  
• Metra 40-LX11 Antenna Adaptor Cable - Select 2009-Up Lexus/Toyota (this will be different for other cars)
  
• AXXESS AX-TOYUSB - USB-Auxilliary Retention Harness - USB adaptor to retain the OE USB in select Toyota vehicles (this will be different for other cars)
  
• Metra 95-8226B Dash Kit for Toyota Prius 2010 Double DIN (though I actually went with the OEM Toyota one as it looked better, link here for reference)
  
• A nicer mic
  
• Audio tuner mic
  
• Some giant spudgers
  
• I'm sure I'm missing something else here, but eh.
  
  ​
  
  I believe I set aside a Saturday afternoon to swap it out myself, and also install a dash cam with both front and rear cameras (the car already had backup camera built in). I ended up working on this through all of the weekend, and then did some more tweaks the following weekend.

Hey! If you have a cassette player, you're gonna need an adapter which can be found here if not you dont need this! Make sure the measurements of the radio match up, it should fit most single/double din radios.


After that make sure to buy a wiring harness


And then get your radio!



Also this would help a bunch, be sure you have a 8mm socket ready.

• Maestro RR that handles communicating with steering wheel controls and CAN bus (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00E4W1644/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04__o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
  
• TO2 harness to tie the Maestro RR into existing wire harnesses (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01K02TMKQ/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
  
• sTO2 to retain factory GPS and Siruis XM antennas (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01K03PORU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
  
• PAC USB-TY1 to retain factory USB (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00F0YJ49O/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
  
• Metra 40-LX11 antenna adapter (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003VYWSES/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
  
• Sirius XM tuner is OPTIONAL! You don't need this if you don't subscribe. (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NJTO4CY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
  
• Metra 99-8251B dash kit (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01BTSW5YA/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1)
  
  And then obviously pick a head unit. We've had good luck with the Kenwood DNX695S, which has navigation, wired android auto, apple car play, and plays DVDs. It looks like a lot of parts but the only wire connecting you'll need to do is with the various harnesses listed above, and there's good documentation on what goes where. Once you get your harness all connected up, everything just plugs right into your existing Toyota harnesses.

Yes. It's android autos google maps based off your phone. They make google maps and spotify driver safe. But still both work fine for the basics. I come from the same background as you and I love this device. Play around with the MHL stuff too. And absolutely 100% get this

No offence but if you don't understand the wiring diagram maybe you should get someone to do it for you?

If you're determined to do it yourself maybe you just need a wiring harness kit like this:

https://www.amazon.com/Scosche-NN03B-Harness-1995-07-Standard/dp/B0007KPS0A/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1494895498&sr=8-2&keywords=nissan+350z+wiring+harness

It all depends on your setup. I don't know what plugs Joying comes with and whether or not you have a bose system in your car etc.

I don't have RDS, but I do have the JBL Synthesis system, that looks like this.

That said, I have some confusion with the wiring harness...

1. Do I NEED to pick up a JBL wiring harness just so that I can use the factory amp/sub?
   
2. Can I use the regular wiring harness like this one, or will I need to pick up another one?
   
   
   Thanks
   
   

The tires can only be slightly different in width and depth, not actual rim size. For example, you can't put a tire that's 185/55/14 on a 185/55/15 wheel. You can slightly vary the width and depth by putting say a 195/55/14 on a 185/45/14 wheel. Obviously not recommended though.

Next as far as your radio goes, any radio will fit. You just need the correct installation kit. Want a 7 inch touchscreen navigation unit? Buy a double din installation kit and radio wiring harness. If you want your standard run of the mill small aftermarket stereo, get a single din kit. Amazon is your friend.

Metra 70-1858 Radio Wiring Harness For GM 88-05 Harness https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002BEX8W/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_3-LOub00TY0AV

Metra 99-4544 Dash Kit For GM Multikitwith Eq Opt 82-04 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000281X60/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_DaMOub0ETARQM


Edit: looks like the 92 century only has a single din hole. So scratch the double din idea.

You can get a chinese radio for $30 but if you plan to keep using your car for some time it would be better to go up one notch and put something like the Pioneer FH-X720BT, i know CDs are in extinction but for a little price difference you still have the option.
You need to get the mounting kit, and the wiring harness. Installing it is not that hard, if you can splice some wires you're set, the wires in the radio harness and in the adapter are color coded so you just need to match them.

Is this the harness adapter you're referring to? Sorry I'm new to all of this (I paid bestbuy to have all of my stuff put in originally) so I have a couple more questions.

Will that mini amplifier power all 4 speakers? I only see a L and R so my assumption is that it'll only work for 2 speakers. Also, how do I power the amp? Is that what the remaining wires coming out of the adapter that aren't for the speakers are for? Lastly, is attaching the wires to the amp as easy as stripping the wire and twisting it around the pins? Thank you again for your help.

I never tried to play music with an SD card. I do have a bypass installed. I know with the 4200 there is a different bypass module that you need. Did you make sure you got the right one?

Edit. This is the one I have MicroBypass Parking Brake Switch Fully Automatic Video in Motion Interface for Pioneer AVH-4100NEX AVH-4200NEX https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00VKQ6ECQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_6IlgAbHPR7ZVZ

Edit : nevermind didn't see that you already linked it lol

Which cables have you tried? Did you use any on the list on the pioneer website? Have you tried enabling USB debugging like some forums say?

[Speakers] (http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_9126_Polk-Audio-db691.html)

[Headunit] (http://www.amazon.com/Sony-CDX-GS500R-Single-Pandora-Control/dp/B009CVX3MK)

[Dash kit] (http://www.amazon.com/Metra-99-8101-Toyota-Multikitturbo-84-04/dp/B000271NHK)

[Wiring Harness] (http://www.amazon.com/Metra-70-1761-Wiring-Harness-Speaker/dp/B0002BEQJ8)

Now this headunit is the best you can get for under $100. It does have usb but it isn't directly on the front though. If you want it on the front then we will have to downgrade the speakers to afford a headunit that does have it on the front. The Polk DB series is a great entry level speaker series. I also looked up speaker size of your car and my research turned up that no where in the car do you have 6x9.. so how does that work?

I got all my harnesses from David at ae64.com. I emailed him with the details of what I was planning to do and he responded with everything I needed. It was nice to get them all from one place.

I paired his harnesses with a Maestro RR to retain the backup cam and steering wheel controls.

Remember, if you email David, he will give you a list customized to your application, but here is what I used:

Ordered from ae64.com

• 10 & 6 pin "forward" harness with plain speaker wires
  
• 28-pin aux retention harness with 3 plain SWC wires & VSS & reverse gear & parking brake leads
  
• Add male RCA and 6V power lead to 28-pin harness (to retain OEM rear camera)
  
• AX-SUBUSB2
  
• Alternate AM/FM+XM antenna feeder cord (to retain shark fin antenna)
  
  Ordered from Amazon:
  
  
• [MicroBypass Parking Brake Switch]
  (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00VKQ6ECQ)
  
• SiriusXM SXV300v1
  
  Ordered from eBay:
  
  
• Maestro RR
  
  
  Hope this helps

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07GD8627K/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 this is the harness i used, has the reverse 6v signal already to go. all you need us usb retention https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01DJ4KVQ6/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

then the speaker harness. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002BEQJ8/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

and lastly the antenna harness https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003VYWSES/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

these were all the things i used to wire in my kenwood. besides the tool to keep steering wheel buttons https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00J4W10XG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

the autoharnesshouse harness makes it easy to use the maestro by the way. hope this helped. i have a 2017 wrx by the way so i dont know if there is a difference with 2015 and the new 2018+s

I have had amazing luck with the Sony XAV-AX100. It is a very stable head unit running AA and sounds way better than the stock stereo. It also looks like it could be stock as opposed to the obnoxious ones that have a million green blinky lights. It doesn't support wireless but you can retain steering wheel controls and center console USB, just by using this custom wiring harness. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01D9K3L44/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I used this thread for install questions.

https://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2815667

Kenwood KMM-BT315U.

Its a media receiver meaning it doesn't play CD's.
Amazon right now for $77.


Wiring Harness Metra 70-1761 $5


Dash Kit Scosche $12

$94 before taxes.

Watch This; if you're not comfortable doing that please get it professionally installed (shop around, $80 max for labor on an install like this).

You can find Pioneer BT receivers for less also, I just like the way Kenwood looks.

The dash kit I listed will only fit a single din radio, for double din you'll need the metra kit.

Mine was a Bose as well. I'd highly encourage you to do the swap - modern radio features are pretty neat, and you can even put in something like this if you're feeling adventurous.

According to miata.net's audio page, the head units are all pretty similar - it seems the biggest difference is determining if you need to buy either this wiring harness or this one.

Both the head unit and the harness come with instructions on which wire carries which signal, so soldering them is simply connecting A to A. Honestly, the most difficult part of the swap I found was installing the mounting sleeve in my console - the unfinished metal edges dealt me more than a few cuts due to my stubborn refusal to protect my hands.

I spent a bit of time kicking myself for not photodocumenting the head unit installation, but ah well. There's no shortage of people willing to advise on the subject.

Buy a single DIN aftermarket radio of your liking.

Buy a single DIN faceplate adapter like this.

Buy a wire harness that will plug into the factory radio connector like this. This will prevent you from hacking the factory wiring to connect it to the aftermarket radio harness.

It may require you to buy this adapter for the factory attenna connect into the aftermarket radio.

Install is pretty easy, search google for walkthroughs if you get stuck.

Does your car have steering wheel controls? If so, you'll lose that feature, there's ways to make it work but they're pricey.

To my knowledge, most of them are almost the same length so they can mount with the dash kit. And since you're on crutchfield, it says it comes with the installation gear which I hope is everything. If not, the harness is this if you don't have Bose, and the dash kit. It's pretty simple to wire the harness to the existing wires. They're all color coded and some you won't need.

I don't have a V, rather a Gen3 2013. I had a JVC KWAV61BT put in. Purchased on Amazon for $200 a year ago. Also got from Amazon: Steering Wheel Control Wire, Dash Kit, and Wiring Harness. Had a local shop install it for $100. I probably could have done it myself, but wanted it to look professional. Total cost of the stereo and parts was $275. Looks like Amazon has the DDX-372 for under $300.

Hi, thank you for the tutorial. I would like change speaker but I can't find adapter in amazon Italy. They have specific technical name because in your amazon link I didn't found?

Sorry about that, I just picked something on amazon that resembled the stuff I used. This is the exact listing for the tape I used, it's just in a box so you can't really see it. It didn't say anywhere on the box about heating it to set it. And I wanted to use a crimping heat shrink, but the adapter looks like This if you see, only one side has wires exposed, the other side is all plugged into this adapter that I plug into the car (and where the original radio was plugged in to). I could not slip the crimping thing down onto it because the other side was already soldered on.

You know what? Nvm, forgot the 4100 needs a double pulse to unlock. Better off getting the specific microbypass or a simple switch.

Edit: This micro bypass or a simple switch like this

$5 would have saved you a massive amount of headache and potentially money. Did you leave enough length on the harness to reconnect it? If you still have it?

Chances are quite high you blew fuses when cut the factory harness. It’s also quite possible you aren’t on the right wire or your connections aren’t as good as you think. Having chopped the factory harness you may be looking at more in labor as far as correcting your issue goes because now who ever will be working on it isn’t just doing a normal install they will be doing a hardwired install.

I just replaced mine in my 06 without the Bose system. The removal and reinstallation is pretty straight forward. I do want to go back with some sound deadening material or a foam baffel to see if there is any better bass response.

I went with these "Rockford R168X2 Prime 6 x 8 Inches Full Range Coaxial Speaker, Set of 2 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BF6HVGY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_bCSfTbRya1zVA "
I also used​ these so I wouldn't have to cut the stock harness
" Metra 72-5600 Ford Speaker Harness 1998-UP https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001OAB6BW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_HhPhN5qVTdyWy "
You will need to crimp on new connectors for the speakers as the POS and neg are on the wrong sides.

Over all the speakers are on par with stock imo. They are a 50 rms speaker and the stock ones are 25 rms.

Grounding was a common workaround for head units with nav systems that required the car to be in park to enter an address or generally be useful. The manufacturers caught on to people just permanently grounding the parking brake wire to trick the head unit so they got a little smarter by checking to see if the parking brake toggles when the car is started.
There are specialized parking brake bypasses that simulate the parking brake toggle, here's one listed for the 4100-NEX. If OP tried grounding or the wire isn't hooked up in the first place this might be the ticket.

You probably should have considered this before buying the stereo.

The nice thing is, a '98 Corolla is one of the easier installs. It has a standard "single-DIN" (2" x 7") radio, and any aftermarket head unit will have existing holes on the sides of the deck to screw directly onto Toyota radio brackets.

If the new stereo you bought is "double-DIN" (i.e. about 4" tall instead of about 2" tall) it will not easily fit in your car. Sell or return it and get a single-DIN.

If you bought the stereo from a major stereo retailer like Crutchfield they would have included instructions and a jumper wiring harness that would have made this a no-brainer. If you don't have a jumper wiring harness you'll have to make one. The stereo comes with its male side of the harness; you'll need the correct female plug for your car to complete it. To put the two together, solder or butt-splice the matching wire colors. Do not attempt to cut and splice the car's own wires! For a normal stereo install there is no need.

I have a 2009 Vibe, which is virtually the same as your Matrix. Apply e-brake, shift into N, then pull up on the dash bezel from the bottom, just below the hvac controls, to remove. Get the Scosche dash kit https://www.scosche.com/2009-toyota-matrix-pontiac-vibe and any double-DIN fits in there just fine. When screwing the radio in, push up on the radio and alignment will be better. You'll need a standard Toyota wiring harness to splice into the harness that comes with your new radio, then it's plug and play. If you have steering wheel controls, you'll also need a steering wheel interface.
Order everything from Crutchfield and they will include all those extra parts with your order. Here's a pic of my install: http://forums.genvibe.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=30&t=45247#p513922

Do yourself a favor and get a reverse harness set from something like Metra. It'll break out the connections into bare wires in fairly standard color coding. Yellow is hot +12V, Red is switched +12V, Black is Ground, Blue is amp +12V, etc.

Metra Harness Set

Antenna Adapter

These worked for me. nice plug and play

RED WOLF Car Front Door Pro Tweeter Audio Speaker Wiring Harness for 2010-2019 Toyota Corolla, 2008-2013 Toyota Highlander Factory Speaker Replacement Adapter Connector 1 Pair https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07RMZ4CR6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_2HkTDb29AXJEX

It most certainly does work with your vehicle. However it's going to be overkill. Without steering wheel controls, just use the Axxess GMRC-01. WAYY cheaper. It doesn't give you all the OBD outputs that you'd use to connect a double din touch-screen, like parking brake, reverse signal for back up cam, etc. So if you're just installing a basic stereo, the GMRC is the way to go.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001XOBU4C/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1509800672&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=gmrc-01&dpPl=1&dpID=31KLBpZMsCL&ref=plSrch

Personally I'd spend a few more bucks and do this:

• Clarion Mobile Electronics CZ CD/MP3/WMA Receiver : http://amzn.com/B006WVX9R2
  
• Rockford Fosgate Prime Full Range 3-Way Coaxial Speaker - Set of 2: http://amzn.com/B00BF6HVGY
  
  I just figure if you're pulling your stock head unit out you might as well have bluetooth and other modern functions in it.
  
  Heck, you'll probably see a good change in sound just switching the speakers out. If they are the stock speakers in there they are cheap 16 year old cones. To make the speaker install a snap, just use these:
  
  
• Metra 72-5600 Speaker Adapter for Select Ford Vehicles
  http://amzn.com/B001OAB6BW

What you want to look for is a single din head unit.

Pioneer DEH-150MP Single DIN Car Stereo With MP3 Playback https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0091V0A9U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_pvMHybMT2RYV9

Now depending on what else was ripped out of the car you may need a new wiring harness

Metra 70-1721 Wiring Harness for 1998-2005 Acura/Suzuki/Honda Vehicles https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002BF09S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_twMHybX5GZZK1

And a radio antenna adapter... I couldn't find this alone on Amazon. Here's a bundle with the wiring harness, antenna adapter and dash kit

HONDA ACCORD 1998 - 2002 DASH KIT + WIRE HARNESS + RADIO ANTENNA ADAPTER https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01NBF71DM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_TxMHyb1RKAN9K


Hope this helped out.. any single din head unit will work I just took the first one I saw to show you.

Here is the harness adapter I used on my '05. Should work on your '03.

I also got this deck. I don't really need a CD player, or anything other than AM/FM, and an aux-in. I've been very pleased with it.

Then for the receiver:

http://www.amazon.com/Pioneer-DEH-X4800BT-In-Dash-Bluetooth-Receiver/dp/B01463VLLI?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=ox_sc_act_title_2&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

and finally the harness:

http://www.amazon.com/Metra-70-1761-Wiring-Harness-Speaker/dp/B0002BEQJ8?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=ox_sc_act_title_1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

All set?

EDIT: You also mentioned deadening. What would you recommend?

Also at the back of my car under the rear window is two speaker panels. I imagine those are the subs?

COAXSHER RCP-1, Pro Radio, Chest Harness. Lots of places for radios, cell phone, and all of the other items you want easy access to.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007QUNHFM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I'm looking at swapping the headunit in my 2018 soon, i was looking at these guides

• https://www.reddit.com/r/WRX/comments/5xxl9f/2017_head_unit_replacement/
  
• 
  
• https://www.reddit.com/r/WRX/comments/7l2nwe/upgrading_the_hu_a_newbies_guide/
  
• 
  
• https://www.reddit.com/r/WRX/comments/4ysa7j/headunit_replacement_on_a_wrx_2017_album_and/
  
  also idatalink came out with a new harness that makes the installation of a new head unit much easier - HRN-RR-SU2
  It's difficult to find right now, but im sure places will start stocking them soon
  
  I ordered one here but don't know when they will ship

5 ch amp

Front Speakers

Subwoofer

Head Unit

Sub Box

HU Interface

Antenna adapter

Dash Kit

Amp install kit

This assumes you don't have bose or onstar, and if any of this is confusing I'd give Sonic Electronix or Crutchfield a call to make sure you get the right stuff for your head unit. I would bridge channels 1-4 into just your front speakers, leave the rear stock and powered by the hu for now.

The above is ~500. The next dollars I would spend would be for this

Subwoofer box is 10 inches high 12 inches deep so check for clearance

You need a microbypass.

afaik, this will do the trick for you

Really easy to install, just a few taps to make at the back of the headunit, and done.

Picture of it installed:

http://i.imgur.com/f4fUSR2.jpg

you want these:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001JT3NZK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GNHZHK2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00VKQ6ECQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (Optional, if you are buying the 4100NEX)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B4PJC9K/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (Optional, if you want steering wheel controls to work)

https://www.amazon.com/Metra-40-HD11-2009-Up-Antenna-Adapter/dp/B003E3MLB6/ (Optional, if you want to listen to the radio)

Yes it will work.

You will need this harness:

https://www.amazon.com/20-pin-Subaru-Headunit-Harness-Steering/dp/B01D9K3L44

and this adapter box:

https://www.amazon.com/Axxess-ASWC-1-Universal-Steering-Interface/dp/B00B4PJC9K/

If you get the Metra 70-7552 wiring harness (what crutchfield.com recommends), you won't have the steering wheel control wires and you'd have to tap in to your factory wires.

Yes I got an adapter that allows me to use the center consoles USB port. Axxess AX-SUBUSB2 USB Retention... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DJ4KVQ6?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

If you aren't afraid of some wiring it's really not bad to replace a head unit and you can save yourself a bunch. If you want to have someone do it you can go to bestbuy or another store that does installs. Its a lot of wires so it looks intimidating but all you need is the head unit of your choice, the bezel or surround if you still have a factory unit and optional but I do recommend is the adapter kit to plug into the stock harness. Putting it together is as easy as matching colors and soldering or just using butt connectors. It is a fairly simple process and if you mess it up the worst that can happen is it just won't turn on.

You pick a single din head unit and these are the items you need. You can do a double din but if I remember right you need a special adapter that is a it harder to find and pricier. Or you need I think one of the Japanese tombstones.

This will surround the radio and give it a cradle so you don't have blank spaces.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0002BEYIQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1483301353&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=miata+radio+install+kit+93&dpPl=1&dpID=41meO9lqHtL&ref=plSrch

This will plug directly into the stock plug and then you just connect the wires to the radio you pick out.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0002BETW2/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1483301254&sr=8-4&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=miata+radio+install+kit&dpPl=1&dpID=41byl99kQ8L&ref=plSrch

I upgraded to a Pioneer Nav unit in the fall and I believe that this USB Retention Harness Is what I have to retain the USB in the armrest. Unfortunately, Android Auto didn't work between the Pioneer unit and the S7 for some reason but the USB does work.
Side note: The OEM backup camera also works with using the Axxess AX-SUB28SWC but I recall the wiring was changed in the 2017 so it wasn't color for color as original wiring diagrams went.

yea maybe.... Next time buy the wire harness for your car...They are like 3 bucks

Example

https://www.amazon.com/Scosche-Harness-1986-1997-speaker-connector/dp/B0003NFJKA

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Metra-Radio-Install-Kit-for-85-and-Up-Ford-Mercury-Jeep/21015883?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=299&adid=22222222227015208742&wl0=&wl1=g&wl2=c&wl3=53852898191&wl4=aud-273067695102:pla-88029148631&wl5=9011349&wl6=&wl7=&wl8=&wl9=pla&wl10=111830355&wl11=online&wl12=21015883&wl13=&veh=sem

wire new radio wiring harness to the scochse one, plug and play

I put a Pioneer 4100 NEX in my 2011 Prius II. It can use Android Auto or Apple CarPlay.

Here are the parts I used to install it.

• [Scosche Dash Kit for 2010 Toyota Prius Din with Pocket and Double Din] (http://www.amazon.com/Scosche-Toyota-Prius-Pocket-Double/dp/B003KZJXVE?ie=UTF8)
  
• [Scosche Radio Wiring Harness for 1987-Up Toyota Power/4 Speaker Connector] (http://www.amazon.com/Scosche-Harness-1987-Up-Speaker-Connector/dp/B00009UHKW?ie=UTF8)
  
• [Posi-Products Car Stereo Connectors] (http://www.crutchfield.com/S-MQKJZ6iyN7I/p_669PP500/Posi-Products-Car-Stereo-Connectors.html) to install the wiring harness
  
• [Metra AX-USB-35EXT 3.5mm iPod to USB Extension Cable - 27-Inch - Black] (http://www.amazon.com/Metra-AX-USB-35EXT-3-5mm-Extension-Cable/dp/B00L2SF64E?ie=UTF8) (Used to extend the USB from head unit to the unused ports in my car)
  
• [Scosche Axt12 12-Inch Antenna Extension Cable] (http://www.amazon.com/Scosche-Axt12-12-Inch-Antenna-Extension/dp/B000NWHVU2?ie=UTF8) (optional, but made it easier)
  
  
  For the steering wheel controls
  
  
• [Metra Axxess ASWC-1 Universal Steering Wheel Control Interface] (http://www.amazon.com/Axxess-ASWC-1-Universal-Steering-Interface/dp/B00B4PJC9K?ie=UTF8)
  
• [Metra 70-8114 Steering Wheel Control Wire Harness with RCA for 2003-Up Select Toyota/Scion/Lexus Vehicles] (http://www.amazon.com/Metra-70-8114-Steering-Control-Vehicles/dp/B0064J4LOM?ie=UTF8)
  
  
  I also installed the [OttoNavi Prius Backup Camera] (http://www.ottonavi.com/Toyota-Prius-2009-2013-Back-Up-Camera-p/ty0913pr-kdcmrcxx.htm) but is out of stock now.

https://www.amazon.com/Kenwood-KMM-BT322-Player-Bluetooth-sirius/dp/B07CNWRC65

• single DIN, bluetooth and aux in, 80 bucks.
  
  https://www.amazon.com/ACOUSTIK-CP-650-Bluetooth-Receiver-Touchscreen/dp/B0792R4D4N/
  
  $169 gets you the cheapest CarPlay I can find. $252 gets you into JVC and Pioneer brands.
  
  2000 model year is before they did retained accessory power, OnStar and other stuff, so your wiring harness is dead simple and cheap:
  
  https://www.amazon.com/Metra-70-1858-Radio-Wiring-Harness/dp/B0002BEX8W/ - $6.48 (never cut the factory harness. Always wire the aftermarket radio's harness to a connector that works with the factory.)
  
  and the dash kit to fit either into the space - $15.39
  https://www.amazon.com/Metra-99-4644-Multi-Kit-Shelf-Black/dp/B0007WTFAM/
  
  Add about an hour in the driveway (30 to wire, 30 to install, going slow) and this problem goes away. It's pretty easy. Total:
  
  

• 101.87 for the single-din kenwood, bluetooth and aux-in
  
• 190.87 for the cheapest CarPlay
  
• 273 for Pioneer 1300NEX level CarPlay
  
  The other way to solve this is with a hard-wired FM transmitter, that plugs the FM signal between your antenna and the radio. https://www.amazon.com/iSimple-IS31-Antenna-Modulator-Aftermarket/dp/B002U5XPBE/ - $26.95 and the same 30 minutes in the driveway installing, and you'd have aux-in back. They do make a bluetooth version of this, but some people say the bluetooth one doesn't sound very good, and adds pairing issues.
  
  I've installed CarPlay about 10 times (I keep putting different ones in my car, I've had Kenwood, Alpine, Pioneer primarily. A Pioneer with wireless CarPlay is going in next.) There's no magic to it, and it does make the experience a lot better, for me.

It really depends on how much you shop around. For example, here's quick amazone prices:

Dash kit:
http://www.amazon.com/Metra-99-6504-Dash-Dodge-98-Up/dp/B0002BG6RI/ref=sr_sp-atf_title_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1411179366&sr=8-1&keywords=02+dodge+neon+dash+kit

Wire harness:
http://www.amazon.com/Scosche-Reverse-Chrysler-Vehicles-Connector/dp/B0007KPRK6/ref=sr_sp-atf_title_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=undefined&sr=8-1&keywords=02+dodge+neon+wire+harness

Antenna adaptor:
http://www.amazon.com/Stereo-Antenna-Harness-Aftermarket-Adaptor/dp/B000KL4HN0/ref=sr_sp-atf_title_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1411179465&sr=8-2&keywords=02+dodge+neon+antenna+adaptor

So maybe $35 or so extra dollars. I know Crutchfield used to include all needed parts with most radios, so maybe something to consider. I still think a modulator would be the least expensive route for what you want.

Scosche makes a wiring harness adapter.

Here's a link to Amazon
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0007KPS0A/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1525792990&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=scosche+xterra+radio+wiring+harness&dpPl=1&dpID=41rDjw%2BkK2L&ref=plSrch

Will I need to do the wiring myself? I was under the impression the harness would connect the systems without anything like that.

Metra 70-7901 Radio Wiring... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002BETW2?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

I installed this in my 01 Corolla a couple weeks ago. It fits in the stock mounting bracket and has AUX, BT and USB. All you will need to install it is this wiring harness, a set of crimp caps and a wire stripper/crimp tool.

The hardest part is wiring the new head unit to the wiring harness. The actual installation should take 10 minutes.

MicroBypass Parking Brake Switch Fully Automatic Video in Motion Interface for Pioneer Model AVH-4100NEX https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00VKQ6ECQ/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_lvQCxbNCTX540

https://www.amazon.com/20-pin-Subaru-Headunit-Harness-Steering/dp/B01D9K3L44

This is what I used to be able to use all features regardless if I’m parked or not.

Bypass Module

I don't know what would cause that to pop up every few seconds but I've installed a couple of pioneer head units with a bypass module that allows video in motion. I'm guessing it would get rid of that message.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01L6Z1WYA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_naBDDbQ133A4Z

This worked for me.

May not be compatible with your unit so do some research

HU: https://www.amazon.com/Pioneer-AVH4200NEX-Receiver-Motorized-Bluetooth/dp/B01D6HPMZQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1520966717&sr=8-1&keywords=pioneer+4200&dpID=51eUfp1qb2L&preST=_SX300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

Bypass: https://www.amazon.com/MicroBypass-Automatic-Interface-AVH-4100NEX-AVH-4200NEX/dp/B00VKQ6ECQ/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1520966717&sr=8-2&keywords=pioneer+4200&dpID=51x1VlAngzL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

Metra Electronics 70-5520 Wiring Harness for Select 2003-Up Ford Vehicles https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0007WTF34/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_q7U3DbGQ7M4ZV

im using this one.

Um...that's exactly what I'm doing but you still need to connect the stereo harness with the adaptor harness since stereos have different input configurations.

This is what I have: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002BF09S/ref=psdc_10981131_t1_B0007KK2G0

20-pin Subaru/Nissan Headunit/Radio Wiring Harness with Steering Wheel Switch wires

i have this one:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00VKQ6ECQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

That plug is for USB, you can use this adapter to plug that into your new head unit's USB port.

The rearview camera is part of the 28-pin adapter, pins 11-13 (I think), check out the thread here. You can use this 28-pin adapter which includes the 12v to 6v converter to plug in the rear-view camera to an aftermarket head unit instead of buying the add-on unit.

This is what I used

Best of luck! I'm not sure about '06s, but mine required these adapters. Ford used some kind of plug for the factory speakers, and I needed that in order to avoid cutting the door harness.

2 steps:

1. before turning ignition, I check voltage (+) and Remote wire. Verified 12V
   
2. After turning ignition, checked (+) and Remote, and the voltage is 0.
   
   I have a parking brake bypass installed that connects to blue-white (Remote), Ground (black) and Left Rear Speaker (Green).
   
   I am suspicious that the bypass is grounding the remote signal causing the woofer to not turn on.
   
   Will remove the bypass and try again.
   
   For nice bare metal, should I just sand the paint off in a small area and ground it to the metal with a self-tapping screw? Will watch some videos to get that done correctly.

Kit

Harness

Steering wheel controls, if you want it.

2 screws below radio, and one behind the hazard (whole piece between vents comes out) then the whole panel comes off.

http://priuschat.com/threads/stealth-install-an-aftermarket-stereo-in-prius.38700/

This provides all the info needed for the most part. I ordered the stereo from Crutchfield and it came with the OEM to aftermarket wiring harness needed, but I also needed to buy an additional harness to avoid the dreaded red triangle resulting from some installs. There is a way to fix this with a resistor but the harness seems to be more reliable.

Stereo: JVC KD-R950BT

Wiring Harnesses: Metra 70-1761:
http://www.amazon.com/Metra-70-1761-Wiring-Harness-Speaker/dp/B0002BEQJ8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1398123517&sr=8-1&keywords=Metra+70-1761

Best Kits BHO1761 OEM Radio Wire Harness:
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0088TNGRE/ref=pe_385040_30332190_TE_3p_M3T1_ST1_dp_1

I had the same problem with a pioneer unit and the toyota harness - the ebrake signal isn't compatible. I ended up getting a $10 override chip from amazon ( https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00VKQ6ECQ/) and putting that inline.

You can, in theory, hack something up with a relay or by running it to other signals under the dash (check the manuals and google). I didn't feel like pulling my dash apart more so I was happy to shim it out with the chip.

I'm sorry I worded the question wrong, could I get a GM interface without Onstar? Like would everything else work fine except Onstar? I don't really need it. Say, something like this or this?

House?

Car- 2017 Toyota 86

HU - https://www.pioneer.com.au/shop/car/avh-zl5150bt/

Harness- Metra 70-1761 Radio Wiring... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002BEQJ8?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

It depends on the car. Most cars made before 2015 or so use a standard Double Din Slot radio (With Double Din being the size of the radio) while cars older than 2000's might have a single din slot radio. All of these radio's are interchangeable and can be swapped out (Sometimes with an adapter kit). The slightly trickier part if you want to do this yourself is wiring up a harness that connects your cars electrical system (speakers/power/USB/FM radio) to the radio you want to install. You will need to find an electrical manual or a guide online to tell you which wires are for what and connect them to the corresponding wire on the new radio.

Source: Replaced the shitty radio in my old Subaru

For general functionality of the head unit you just need Metra 70-1761 Radio Wiring... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002BEQJ8?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share this is what i use in my 2014 brz and the metra usb adapter. I had the pac from a prewired harness from crutchfield but it was annoying.