(Part 2) Reddit mentions: The best car wash equipment

I've always struggled to keep my vehicles clean because 1) they were always old, 2) I've lived in condos, 3) car washes did a terrible job / detailers charged too much, and 4) I didn't realize you could do all of this yourself pretty effectively.


When I bought a new truck at the beginnging of the year, I randomly stumbled upon an Ammo NYC video and the nerd / clean-freak was intrigued. A couple dozen videos later, and I was hooked. Shout out to Larry for your passion - thank you for the insane amount of information on your channel. (Wish I could afford all of your products, or that you had some of them on Amazon!).

Living in a condo, I have to swing by my local coin wash and take up a bay with a few buckets during off-peak hours, but I've gotten it down to 1.5 hours and looking like this every time.

I've only been doing this for a few months, but thought I'd share the products I've researched and selected based on reviews and costs. Hope this helps save someone time!

TOOLS

• McGuire-Nicholas 22015 15-Inch Collapsible Tote - https://amzn.to/2HXGsvd - I love this thing. Handle is sturdy and holds every chemical I need.
  
• Relentless Drive Ultimate Car Wash Mitt - https://amzn.to/2KJC7td - Great mitt and would strongly recommend it. I've only used the mitt for a few washes so I can't comment on durability, but if I had to guess I think it's going to hold up. My only complaint is that it's so voluminous that it's difficult to rinse / wring out the dirt when using the two-bucket method. Not a big enough problem to look for another mitt, though.
  
  BUCKETS
  
  
• Chemical Guys ACC_101 Detailing Bucket Kit - https://amzn.to/2KJb552 - a good starter bucket, but it's worth calling out how much of this stuff is BS marketing: the bucket is only 4 gallons, the gamma lid can be bought for cheaper on amazon, the citrus gloss is OK, and the wash mitt is worthless / isn't going to hold up. I barely used the mitt once and fuzz falls off constantly when handling.
  
• Adam's Grit Guard Wash Bucket with Lid - https://amzn.to/2IoSflo - Better value than chemical guys, but the bucket is just a regular bucket ($4 at Home Depot) and the gamma lid can be purchased for $10-15 on Amazon. I'm not convinced grit guards are worth it, but more on that later.
  
• Grit Guard Washboard Bucket Insert - https://amzn.to/2HW4juZ - the product is well made and does what it's intended to do, but I'm skeptical of its value. Yes, rubbing your mitt on a washboard would intuitively get dirt to fall off, but is it actually more effective than using your hands (which you do anyway to wring out the mitt)? And I'm not buying that the fins "trap dirt." Anybody who looks at their rinse bucket while washing wheels for example can plainly see the water's black. Dirt's floating everywhere.
  
  
  CHEMICALS
  
  
• Mothers 08216 California Gold Instant Detailer - https://amzn.to/2KJ2f7t - this stuff has done a pretty good job for quick wipe-downs, spot cleans, etc.
  
• Griot's Garage 11108 Window Cleaner - https://amzn.to/2Iq5CSF - The spray bottle itself is awesome and works really well. The solution also seems to work well, though I've only ever used it after washing the truck and so I'm not sure how much it helps.
  
• Meguiar's G3626 Ultimate Waterless Wash & Wax - https://amzn.to/2jFg3DJ - I used this a few times with the microfiber directional pass method after some serious pollen clouds invaded Austin, and it worked surprisingly well. Ran through 3-4 towels to do my entire truck, then spot-cleaned with an instant detailer. Even though wheel wells and a few pieces were still dirty, it was a huge improvement without the hassle of a full wash. Will definitely be using this as my in-between wash method.
  
• Chemical Guys V7 High Gloss Spray Sealant and Quick Detailer - https://amzn.to/2HXiQ9R - I'm new to detailing, but this stuff is probably the most impressive chemical of everything I've used. The combination of a damp microfiber + V7 produces the result everyone thinks about when they think about car washes: a clean car with no streaks or water spots. Wringing out my microfiber towel can get old, but the end result is just awesome.
  
• Chemical Guys Citrus Wash and Gloss - https://amzn.to/2I1knvx - I don't have the luxury of a frother right now, but from simply adding some in a bucket and using a power washer to generate suds, I get decent foam and the soap seems to work well. That said, it's not earth-shattering and I will probably try other washes when I run out.
  
  
  INTERIOR
  
  
• Mothers 06512 All-In-One Leather Care - https://amzn.to/2IlawAg - This stuff works great and smells even better.
  
  
  WHEELS
  
  
• Adam's Deep Wheel Cleaner - https://amzn.to/2K09l6f - The spray bottle is terribly difficult to press and I always end up using way more than I want. I'm not confident I need to use this instead of just using soap. Maybe it's for exceptionally dirty cars or those with tons of brake dust, but I'm rarely in either camp so I may not buy some more after I run out.
  
• Adam's Hex-Grip Pro Tire Dressing Applicator - https://amzn.to/2HYtb5y - Works well and easy to handle.
  
• Mothers Wheel Brush - https://amzn.to/2K0Ky1Y - really like how easy this is to handle and how soft the bristles are. Highly recommended.
  
• Optimum Opti-Bond Tire Gel - https://amzn.to/2KJsxGP - This is a good low-gloss gel, though I need to try additional coats to see if I can get those tire shinier.
  
• ABN Car Wheel Rim Cleaning 3-Piece Kit - https://amzn.to/2KFgSIR - Yes the big woolie has good reach and allows you to clean the inside of your rims effectively, but the handle is annoyingly difficult to hold after it becomes saturated / heavy to hold.
  
  
  TOWELS
  
  
• Chemical Guys Professional Grade Premium Microfiber Towels, Gold - https://amzn.to/2HY8Q0a - these things are outsidanding and are a great value. Definitely watch Larry's video on microfiber care, which fixed all of my annoyances with microfibers accruing fuzz in the dryer.
  
• THE RAG COMPANY EAGLE EDGELESS 500 Korean 70/30 Super Plush 500gsm Microfiber Detailing Towels - https://amzn.to/2HYVmky - very high plush and high quality, though I end up using the Chemical Guys towels more often and save these for random spot details. Probably not ideal.
  
• THE RAG COMPANY Premium Window, Glass, Mirror & Chrome Korean 70/30 Microfiber - https://amzn.to/2rrveVg - work great for cleaning windows and mirrors.
  
• Nylon Laundry Bag - https://amzn.to/2rtYOcP - I have one bag for clean and one for dirty. Has done a great job of keeping dust off the rags during storage.

Alright, sorry for the long post, but I'm a babbler and I always feel like I have to explain everything in detail.

You absolutely should, I had started to lose some of the love for my car because she was feeling a little older and imperfect. Doing this rekindled our relationship and reminded me that she's still beautiful inside and out. I could barely convince my good friend to come outside and check it out as I left his place one day, but when he saw it he immediately asked me to show him how to do his own.

I'm not sure how to answer your question, though. I didn't use an APC, although I would have if I'd had a good one at the time, I had some Purple Power degreaser laying around from an impulse buy at Autozone one day. But what really makes that harder to answer is that I didn't really didn't do a lot of spraying as you could if you aren't worried about spraying the exterior of your car. I was mostly spraying the rag and for a lot of it I was actually spraying the PP directly onto the toothbrush and scrubbing, then wiping it off. I don't recall any particular spot taking more than 1 to 2 wipes before it was as clean as it was going to get. The biggest problem I had when using the rags directly on the surfaces was the rags becoming too soiled and not cleaning well. Part of that was the low-quality cleaning rags I used, probably some cheap microfiber would have done a better job.

One thing that amazed me throughout the process was how well the toothbrush worked, even though it was inefficient as hell. I'd spray the cleaner on the brush, agitate, and wipe, and it would be perfect. I'm not certain whether to attribute that to the toothbrush doing a good job scrubbing, the purple power being effective, or the fact that it was mostly just years of dirt as opposed to oil and grease build-up like you'd see on older engines.

/u/cf2121 made an excellent guide to detailing your engine bay, located here that I highly recommend taking a look at. That said, if you're water-shy like I am my method DID work it just took a lot longer and I went through over a dozen rags, and the end result wasn't as thoroughly clean, it just looks clean on the surface. What you will absolutely want unless you don't care about getting the lower components clean, and even then I'd still recommend it, is some brushes. A toothbrush is great for small crevices, but it was very tedious to get the larger areas, and it doesn't give you any reaching ability. The Daytona Speed Master brush seems to be one of the best brushes out there, doubling as a great wheel-cleaning brush. This is the kit I'm looking forward to buying before I go at it again.

If you want to test the waterless method I used but aren't sure you want to commit because you're afraid it will take too much scrubbing and re-scrubbing, you can always try a small area and see how it goes. If it's mostly just dust like mine was it should come right off, but you'll still get a much better result following cf2121's guide. However, without using water you can always chip away at it over a few days if, like me, you have a hard time committing to such a project at one time.

I hope that helps, if you have any other questions, let me know and I'll try to answer them more concisely lol. Good luck!

Let's start by saying car covers are a pain in the ass for daily use, the car has to be perfectly clean to prevent it from scratching and it just doesn't work that way unless the car is washed every couple of days.

Instead I'd just wash 1 or 2 times a week, and get a gallon-size of Meguiar's spray wax and Last Touch, because you know you'll be in a constant battle against certain elements, might as well stock up (and you save like 50% just buying in bulk this way). In fact I recommend checking out their entire detailer line because you're going to go through a lot of soaps, waxes, etc. Their gallon of shampoo plus for $20 is a great start. And you can find deals like 3-packs of their supreme shine towels for $6 as an amazon add-on item if you're a prime customer.

https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-D11101-Shampoo-Plus-Gallon/dp/B000EZICII

https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-X3002-Microfiber-Wash-Mitt/dp/B000RXKR6M/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1485457672&sr=1-1&keywords=meguiar%27s+microfiber+mitt

https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-D15601-Synthetic-X-Press-Spray/dp/B005JPJMI2

https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-D15501-Touch-Spray-Detailer/dp/B0006SH4NC/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1485453717&sr=1-1&keywords=last+touch

https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-D12001-Glass-Cleaner-Concentrate/dp/B0006SH4KU/ref=sr_1_4?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1485457691&sr=1-4&keywords=meguiar%27s+glass+cleaner

https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-Supreme-Shine-Microfiber-Cloths/dp/B0009IQZH0/ref=sr_1_2?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1485455013&sr=1-2&keywords=supreme+shine

I just buy all their gallon sized stuff and then reuse my old bottles of spray wax, detailers spray, glass cleaner, wheel bottles, etc. Saves me lots of money, like the difference between $100 now or a couple hundred by next year. For instance their gallon size of glass cleaner is probably enough to set you straight on that for a few years, dilutes 10-1 with distilled water. That's 10 gallons of glass cleaner, put that in an old windex bottle and never run out!

Also the Chemical Guy's bucket kit https://www.amazon.com/Chemical-Guys-ACC_101-Detailing-Bucket/dp/B001U522GO was a pretty amazing deal and necessary if you're going to use coin-wash bays. However the mitt included is a bit rough, so instead I use a meguiar's microfiber mitt as its the softest I've found so far. The paint on this car is very soft so it's important to use the softest products possible on the paint.

An Invisible Glass Reach and Clean tool has worked out great for cleaning the interior glass and keeping it from fogging up. Great item to have. https://www.amazon.com/Invisible-Glass-Reach-Clean-95161/dp/B0017K69MA

And a bird poop tip, keep a plastic container with microfibers, a bottle of water, and a bottle of last touch / spray wax mix in the trunk or behind passenger seat. If a bird hits the car, just soak microfiber with water, apply for 30 seconds, and then clean with the detailer spray / spray wax.

To prevent corrosion, you're going to want to clean deep into the wheel wells and stuff with dedicated brushes and mitts, and then use an anti corrosion product (I ordered some ACF-50 spray recently, getting it in the mail today probably) https://www.amazon.com/Lear-Chemical-ACF50-Anti-Corrosion-Lubricant/dp/B000P1C8UO . You're going to want to check crevices for salt buildup, it can happen on some of the window trim parts, so it might be necessary to remove them and clean them out if it starts to rust underneath. You might want to use dabs of silicone stuff to prevent water and salt from corroding these spots. There are a few posts about corrosion of FT86club forums so read up on them. Also your cabin air filter, leaves and bugs like to get in your cabin air filter and make things nasty. You can easily check / service this yourself, its behind the glove box.


For maintenance, I would NOT go past 5000 miles on an oil change, and be choosy where you take your oil changes. The car likes running on fresh oil period. Buy a 5 pack of oem oil filters and oem crush washers to keep yourself straight for awhile, saves money and time. Or also a fumoto oil valve can save even more effort, as a DIY'er it made my oil changes the easiest thing to do. Check your tire pressure constantly, because a decrease in pressure will make the car drive like crap and will wear your tires out quickly.

Your 60k mile maintenance or therabouts is an important interval. Needs stuff done like spark plug changes, and probably checking the clutch throwout bearing to see if it has become worn. These are expensive and labor intensive, expect a $1000 bill.

Sorry this kinda became a small essay, I hope it's not too verbose but there's a lot of ground to cover if you're just starting out.

I got kinda shafted started out since I had a pretty damn oxidized, single-stage red Miata as well as a pretty-ok silver 2015 Subaru, so I kinda had to build two kits at a time since I didn't want to cross-contaminate my systems. I ended up getting a bunch of orange and white Lake Country CCS foam pads along with playing around with some Meguiars foam cutting pads for the Miata and the 5" Meguiars Microfiber Correction Kit for the Subaru and anything else that's clear coated.

I'm using the same Harbor Freight DA, but with the 5" backing plate that comes with the Meguiars kit. If you don't get the Meguiars kit, at the very least you need to order a new backing plate for Harbor Freight DA because the one that comes with it is well-known for being really shitty. I prefer using a 5" system as it fits a better into tighter spots and gives you noticeably more correction power over a 6" at very little perceived loss of coverage efficiency because of the smaller size.

Of note: I've only had poor experiences with microfiber pads on single-stage since they seem to clog up so fast, but they've been great on clear coat. Most people won't face this issue, but I figured I'd put it out there.

Pair whatever kit you build/get with the 36-pack of microfibers from Costco and you'll be in business in no time.

I did pick up a 6.5" Lake Country CCS red wax/sealant pad since I like to apply Collinite 845 to everything I care about. I intentionally picked an oversized pad for my backing plate because I'm only using my DA at the minimum speed possible (like 1.5 on the HF DA) to spread a thin layer of wax efficiently. If you crank up the speed by accident or out of curiosity, yes, the 6.5" pad does tend to get totally out of control in a hurry, so don't do that haha.

Don't forget your pad brush, or if you have an air compressor, you can use that to blow out your pads (Youtube it). Some method of cleaning pads is absolutely mandatory and for some reason, this is often overlooked or skipped by many people starting out.

Whatever you get, I like to have at least 2 cutting pads on hand and I'll make a conscious effort to switch halfway through the car, usually hood/driver's side for one and trunk/roof/passenger side for the other. I usually can get through a car with just one polishing pad but it's reassuring to have a backup on hand in case the pad explodes or I'm an idiot and set it down on the ground or something. I'm also kinda anal about cross-contamination of LSPs, so I now have a dedicated Lake Country red CCS pad for each LSP I use.

Finally, I know you're looking for advice on pads, but I ended up getting a bottle of the Meguiars DA Microfiber Polish since I prefer to lay down my own LSPs and the lifespan of the DA Finishing Wax was iffy, especially compared to the Powerlock+ and Collinite 845 combo that I use on cars I actually care about. The DA Finishing Wax is now reserved for my detailing side-hustle (which is currently helping fund putting a turbo in my Miata), since it saves quite a bit of time over separate polishing and waxing.

This is what I use, and what I use on my car. Do your research first. These may or may not work with your vehicle.

Car Wash Soap: Meguiar's Gold Class Car Wash Shampoo & Conditioner

Clay Kit: Meguiar's G1016 Smooth Surface Clay Kit, In my experience, this clay is pretty mild, but I don't need anything stronger. I've seen very good reviews for the Mothers clay bar kit also.

Wax: Meguiar's G18211 Ultimate Paste Wax

Spray Wax: Meguiar's G17516 Ultimate Quik Wax (after every wash, in-between actual waxing)

Quick Detailer: Meguiar's G14422 Ultimate Quik Detailer (for door jambs, dust etc.)

Leather Care: I have heard very good things about Leatherique, I have also used Lexol in the past with good results

As for interior cleaner, it really just depends. Do a little research, Meguiar's has a line of interior cleaners, although I haven't tried them.

Glass Cleaner: Invisible Glass Premium Glass Cleaner

As for wheels cleaners, I use a soft sponge and the car wash soap. It does an excellent job without using harsh chemicals that spray onto the brakes.
I personally have not found a tire shine I feel safe using, although I have not done much research into looking for a product for that.

House attachment: If you have a pressure washer safe for paint, this foam cannon seems decent. http://www.amazon.com/Chemical-Guys-EQP_310-Professional-Cannon/dp/B00J5BUZIM/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1462673090&sr=8-6&keywords=foam+cannon
I personally use this: http://www.harborfreight.com/car-wash-nozzle-60773.html
My pressure washer is too high of pressure for my paint, and I don't feel like lugging it out every time I wash my car. So I go to my coin operated wash bay, pay the $2, and use only the rinse option. I come back and start my wash process.

If you have any more questions, let me know. The wiki does help, but sometimes I feel lost and overwhelmed looking at it.

I apologize in advance for this long post. None of these are "must gets", but they are what I got for my 2016 Premium forester. I'm posting this for my own future reference as well as to help some people who are wondering what accessories might be good for their new forester. I highly recommend ordering from Jackie from Annapolis Subaru @ 443-837-1422 as she can get you some good prices on the subaru accessories as well as WeatherTech products! I saved on WeatherTech shipping costs (~$20) by ordering through Jackie and the warranty is the same as if I had bought them through their website.

Please note that some of these accessory links are for my specific car year, model and configuration. I have a 2016 Premium forester without eyesight (affects the Covercraft/heatshield sunshade - they also have eyesight compatible sunshades!).

Also, I personally didn't get my windows tinted, but I think that is something that you should seriously consider doing :)

Speaker kit

Tweeter kit


WeatherTech DigitalFit floorliner (1st & 2nd row)


WeatherTech cargo/trunk liner (without bumper protector)

Weather Tech TechCare floorliner and floormat Cleaner/Protector Kit

Gorilla mud flaps

Covercraft's UVS100 sunscreen - use promo code FREESHIP

Exterior Auto Dimming Mirror w/ Approach Lighting

Luggage Compartment Cover (manual rear gate)

Rear bumper cover

Auto-Dimming Mirror with Compass and HomeLink

Rear Seat Back Protector

Two Home Depot 5 gallon homer bucket

Heatshield sunshade (driver/passenger, second row, rear windshield, sunroof) - note that their website only shows only one side window (driver/passenger), you need to call in to ask them to add the second row side window ones - on my invoice it says part #1425S-A and #1425S-B

Antigravity Batteries AG-XP-10 Multi-Function Power Supply and Jump Starter (check eBay to see if priced cheaper)

Viair 77P Portable Compressor Kit (check eBay to see if priced cheaper)

Amazon stuff:

EZ Pass Holder for VA Flex

Aux cable

Stickershield (parking stickers, etc)

Dropstop seat gap filler (driver/passenger side)

Door panel removal kit (for speaker kit install)

Two grit guards

Microfiber Drying towel

Microfiber cloths (3 pack)

Car wash shampoo

Wheel brush

Resqme (window breaker/seatbelt cutter)

Wheel cleaner

Microfiber wash mitt

Reindeer costume for Christmas

Headrest coat hanger

Road reflective triangles

Duct tape

Odor eliminator

Tire air pressure gauge

OBDII Scanner (Bluetooth)

First aid kit

Hi, Can i remove swirl marks with this equipment?

Hi,
I have a red 2015 Fiesta ST, I have looked after it quite carefully always following procedure when washing (I dont let anyone else wash my car). It still looks great, to the untrained eye it looks 'new', but as a regular visitor to this sub i can tell it could do with some polishing and general deep cleaning, as there are swirl marks.
I just bought some basic equipment, ie, carnauba wax + new wash mit, tire gel etc...
For polishing, i only bought Autoglym super resin polish, new microfibres and hand applicators, these things - https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B002PX5H9Y/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Is this enough equipment to help rejuvenate the paint? Should i have got a clay bar?
What technique should i use when applying the polish with the above applicators?
Any advice would be much appreciated.
Thanks

> sta ST, I have looked after it quite carefully always following procedure when washing (I dont let anyone else wash my car). It still looks great, to the untrained eye it looks 'new', but as a regular visitor to this sub i can tell it could do with some polishing and general deep cleaning, as there are swirl marks. I just bought some basic equipment, ie, carnauba wax + new wash mit, tire gel etc... For polishing, i only bought Autoglym super resin polish, new microfibres and hand applicators, these things - https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B002PX5H9Y/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Is this enough equipment to help rejuvenate the paint? Should i have got a clay bar? What technique should i use when applying the polish with the above applicators? Any advice would be much appreciated. Thanks

technically speaking yes, there is nothing stopping you but your arm might be exhausted after

Hmmmm yes. One more. The GreaseNinja will make all your chain lubrications a breeze. I use that with Motul Factory Chain Wax.

For even easier chain cleaning once every 1k miles like I do, get a Tirox 360 brush and a chemical-resistant spraybottle and fill it with kerosene. Kerosene is amazing. It doesn't damage paint or anything and is totally safe on your chain, wipes away wax and lube fling in seconds, it's great, just make sure you have ventilation so it evaporates away quickly. Put the bike up on rear stand, put an oil catch pan under the chain, throw on some disposable work gloves, wrap the 360 around the chain, turn the rear and slide the 360 along the chain with sprays of kerosene. After some scrubs, wipe it down with a rag'll you throw away later. Your chain will shine like new in about 2 minutes. Let it sit for 5 minutes to have the kerosene evaporate, and then wax, let it sit for 5 minutes for the wax to set, and you're done. Clean, lubricated chain in 10 minutes.

Stole all of this directly from Canyon Chasers and they were absolutely fucking right about the GreaseNinja, the Tirox 360 and the kerosene. Chain cleaning went from chore, to breeze.

I use Meguiar's Wheel Brightener @ 4:1 dilution. It's some pretty heavy-duty stuff, acidic (make sure it's safe on your wheels before going to town). This combined with an SM Arnold wheel brush leaves my wheels spotless (don't buy this brush at Amazon, the price is 3x what you can get it for elsewhere). I'd go as far as saying the Wheel Brightner is overkill if you wash your car and clean your wheels regularly. If the wheels are looking okay, and the brake dust hasn't been worked in for months on end, something more gentle like an APC works just fine.

There are products out there like Meguiar's Brake Dust Barrier, but I didn't have great success with it. If I clean my wheels regularly, the dust comes off very easily. The trick is to have a good quality brush that makes it fast and easy.

I'm fairly new, myself. I've driven clunkers most of my life. Spent about five years downtown where I didn't have a car. Now I'm back in suburbia, so I've got a brand new GTI, and it's the first one I've ever cared to take good care of. Here's what I started with:

• Meguiar's D101 APC - the D103 APC+ has apparently been discontinued.
  
• Two Chemical Guys detailing bucket kits, which each have a bucket, lid, grit guard, 16oz citrus wash, and some washing pad thing I didn't really want.
  
• Two-pack of Rag Company Dry Me a River towels
  
• Five-pack of Rag Company detailing towels
  
• Bottle of Stoner Invisible Glass
  
• Two-pack of Griot's Garage microfiber wash mitts
  
• A Nanoskin wash mitt
  
• 32oz Optimum No Rinse Wash and Wax - for use as a quick detailer and easy maintenance washing.
  
• Lexol leather care kit
  
• Thee-pack of spray bottles
  
• A microfiber window towel
  
• A cheap electric blower
  
• 16oz Chemical Guys Jetseal
  
• Microfiber applicators
  
  I should have picked up some of Chemical Guys' citrus wash and clear, too, to help deal with a winter's worth of grime left by terrible touchless car washes. I've also got a tire brush, hand vacuum, and some assorted cheap microfiber towels around already.
  
  Your kit looks a lot more cost-effective, though. Throw in some cheap buckets, grit guards, wash mitts, and drying towel, and an extra stack of cheap microfibers and you're still under $100 for practically everything you would need for a proper two-bucket wash and wax.

I enjoy Collinite 845, Optimum soap, drying aid, for my dash, doors interior, and vinyl on the outside , wash mitt , drying towel , interior and exterior microfibers great for buffing wax and dust on the interior. And if you want that shine and to keep the integrity of your clear coat I would wax every couple months, depending the quality of the wax you decide to go with.

Looks like you have a good list! I would suggest a couple changes though.

Meguiars supreme shine microfiber: I would recommend getting this instead. I would also recommend getting cheap microfiber for everything other than your paint. Like these.

I bought the Meguiar's microfiber wash mitt and I am really unhappy with it. Since it's microfiber, it grabs onto the dirt and puts scratches into the paint. I would recommend either the lambswool mitt or the wookie mitt.

I use ONR. I clean the jams the same way I clean the rest of the car:

​

(1) Spray the area with the water / ONR mix you created

(2) Clean with microfiber mitt dunked in ONR mix

(3) Dry with microfiber towel and opti-seal

​

By the time I get to wheels my bucket is only half full, so I'll refill and add another cap of ONR to replenish. Then, I do the following:

​

(1) Spray the wheels (surface, tires and inside the cavity)

(2) Use this wheel brush to do one cavity of the wheel at a time (keep dunking in the bucket after each cavity): https://www.amazon.com/TAKAVU-Detailing-Bristle-Multipurpose-Motorcycles/dp/B071VRJRKK/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=wheel+brush&qid=1556569158&s=gateway&sr=8-3

(3) After you're done using the brush, use a microfiber mitt dunked in ONR to go over the wheel as much as you can by hand

(4) Dry with microfiber towel and opti-seal

​

Lastly for tires, I don't really "wash" them. The ONR spray will have taken some of the dirt off when I was doing the wheels. What I do instead is use tire shine spray and wipe off the excess with a dedicated microfiber towel that's only used for tires.

Awesome! You definitely helped. One final question if it's ok. Will the following steps (in order) be good for a first time wash/detail?

1. Wash the car with this soap.
   
   
2. Scrub with these
   
   
3. Dry off with this
   
   
4. Decontaminate with [this]
   (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CUAWJ6G/ref=ox_sc_act_title_6?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER), while using this as the lube for it?

FYI
Auto geek has the Meguiar Bottle's for $4.00 a piece + 15% coupon so it's cheaper to order from them. I have the same bottles and love em.

As far as the Tolco sprayer you're absolutely right THESE see to be the best value for the actual sprayer nozzle, as for bottles I haven't been able to find anything that will resemble THIS setup when complete. Any ideas?

Try an anti static quick detailer like [FK425] (http://www.amazon.com/31oz-Finish-Kare-Extra-Slick/dp/B002NZJEHK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1464139717&sr=8-1&keywords=fk425) or [CG Speed Wipe] (http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FALVU9Y/ref=sr_ph_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1464139743&sr=sr-1&keywords=speed+wipe). I have both and absolutely love the FK425. Its amazing and leaves so much slickness behind. My second favorite is [Optimum Quick Detail and Gloss Enhancer] (http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GG9FJKU/ref=twister_B00GN1PXVG?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1). Idk if the Optimum has anti-static in it though.

I would pick up the following, if you are ready for machine polishing, you will need to pick up a DA polisher and pads as well.

• Nanoskin Wash Mitt - Clay alternative
  
  
• Grit Guards - 2 of them for each 5 gallon bucket. This will keep the swirls from coming back after you correct them.
  
  
• Meguiar's D101 APC Gallon - This is a great wallet friendly APC which can be diluted for different tasks.
  
  

Definitely give Sonax Full Effect Wheel Cleaner a try. I have had amazing success with this stuff. It will turn from green to red as it is working and breaking down iron particles and break dust.


Also, you can give either CarPro's Iron-X or TRIX (Tar and Iron Remover) a try.

Honestly, by looking at the picture, the Sonax should clean up the break dust and those streaks. Just let it sit on the wheel for a couple minutes and agitate it with a brush. I use this brush to get in behind the spokes as well.

As far as keeping brake dust from accumulating as quick, I'm not sure if there's really a remedy. You can wax your rims, there is stuff out there specifically made for rims, but I've never used it, so I'll let someone with experience speak on that. However, I read the other day someone used Collinite #845 Insulator Wax on their rims (same wax I use). I may give this a try next time I wash the car and see if it helps control the brake dust.

Speed Master Wheel Brush is my current favorite wheel brush.

Do you own a truck? You have to be careful with brushes as they put scratches/swirls into the paint. It would be much cheaper to purchase microfiber cloths instead.

This is the only body brush I would recommend:

Montana Original 10 inch Boar’s Hair Car Wash Brush

You should also consider switching to a better interior product.

I usually stop around 3-4:00 PM and figure out where I want to stop that night, then call ahead if I'm getting a hotel room and make a reservation somewhere. You can also read-up on camping on BLM or NFS lands, either campgrounds or remote. State parks also may have campgrounds.

I carry a tire plug kit. This will save you massive amounts of time if you get a flat in a remote area. Watch a few youtube videos if you've never used one and you should be fine.

I also carry a small 12v cigarette-lighter-powered air compressor for reinflating the tire, and a tire pressure gauge because I don't trust the ones on the cheap pumps.

If you are going to travel through remote areas in the west always carry some food and water.

Buy one of those sponges with the nylon netting on the outside or a loofah or one of these. You'll probably want to clean the windshield of dead bugs more often than just when you get gas. Bring a jug of water to assist. Carry an extra jug of wiper fluid.

Research the historical day/night temperatures if you will be traveling in the inter-mountain west. It can actually get quite cold at night if you're camping. Pack appropriate clothing. Monsoon season in the desert southwest can go to early October. Assume you might get rained-on a bit.

Check state DOT websites for conditions ahead at high mountain passes in the Rockies and the Sierras. Some of them start closing due to snow by mid-September.

If you are going to more than two or three national parks buy the annual pass for $80 at the first park you go to. It will pay for itself several times over.

IMHO carrying a bunch of spare parts or tools is overkill but a spare headlamp bulb and a package of assorted zip ties aren't a bad investment. Make sure your brakes are in good condition before you leave if you are driving in mountain areas.

I carry a paper road atlas as I find it useful for longer-distance planning than zooming in/out on an ipad or phone. You can get Rand McNally Road atlasses near the checkouts at a lot of Walmarts.

You'll find that the octane levels of gasoline sold at high altitudes is a few points lower than at sea level. Using 85 octane in a car that usually uses 87 is fine, etc.. Pay attention to the labeling on the pumps elsewhere. At certain places in the Midwest gas stations sell high-ethanol mixes that are inappropriate for non flex-fuel cars. They will still sell the regular stuff, just pay attention to the labels.

Know that this sign means that you can come upon cows standing in the road at any time. Avoid driving these roads at night, or at least keep the speed down and be prepared.

CR Spotless DI-120 Deionized Water System, 1 Pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0056HDCUM/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_c_api_i_UUZ4Ab3M63FGG

I’ve been wanting to pick one of these up for a while now. My buddy has one and loves it, I just can’t bring myself to spend that much cash to be that lazy. Washing a car with a foam cannon and then not having to worry about drying seems pretty awesome though!

Professionally, I'd still recommend the chemical guys foam lance: http://amzn.to/1jW66PA It's amazing to use and really cover the whole car in foam. Clients love to see this stuff. lol But if you want a hobbyist's foam gun the gilmour will do just fine for half the price of a foam lance: http://amzn.to/1lXwutV

I just got mine Wednesday; super easy to setup if you can follow instructions. Utilize all the tools they give you, even the filter wrench and plumbers tape.

Overall impression:

Holy crap, why did I not buy one of these sooner?! Absolutely no water spots washing in 80 degree weather letting it air dry. I was even able to clay my car while I wash panel by panel, then rinse away. Normally 30+ minute wash and clay (when I have to clay) turns into a 15 minute wash while I clay. I can't even imagine how easy it will be once I have my car dialed in with wax and just doing upkeep washes. Tip: buy chemical guys bear claw wash mitt, this thing is a beast.

Link : Chemical Guys ACC145 Bear Claw Scratch Free Premium Wash Pad https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01IRJ2S4G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_HBkkzbBSMXQVM

For the rust removal, glue sandpaper to the eraser of a #2 pencil then use an X-Acto knife and trim to fit.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6xi3xmeO6C4

I've used Dr. Color Chip to successfully touch up along door edges. For this type of touch up I would recommend using a small applicator brush like this:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B017YBW5Q4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

If you wanna keep it under $30 and want a very basic method of keeping your car clean then I would recommend the tried and true 2-Bucket Wash method.

1. 2 x 5-gallon buckets (Lowes or Home Depot) - $2/bucket
   
2. 2 x GritGuards - $17
   
3. 2 x MicroFiber Wash Mitts - $15
   
4. Meguiar's Golf Class Car Wash Shampoo - $10
   
   TOTAL: $45ish
   
   I know that $45 is over your budget of $30, but I highly recommend using the 2-bucket wash method. You can get away with using 1 grit guard and 1 wash mitt if you want to cut a little bit on cost. You could also buy a smaller size of car wash shampoo... this may get you closer to budget.
   
   The reason I buy 2 grit guards is to use 1 in each bucket. You can buy only 1 and use it in the rinse water bucket for when you rinse your mitt.
   
   You can also get away with having 1 wash mitt and look at different brands. I personally use 2 (one for upper half, one for lower half) to reduce contamination.
   
   ---
   
   If you want to expand later on to go beyond cleaning the car... then you can put some money into additional products. You will want to look into wheel brushes, all-purpose cleaner, glass cleaners, detail sprays, waxes, etc.
   
   Once you start, you cannot stop!

I have a tooth brush and I also use the mothers detailing brushes for when the ones you linked don't seem to be stiff enough. I let all the female friends I know that are way into makeup that anytime they replace their makeup brush give them to me. Found them to be great for removing gunk from steering wheel buttons and really tight spaces and applying protection to vents and other small areas my fingers are too fat to fit into.

https://www.amazon.com/Mothers-Detail-Brush-Set-Pack/dp/B001GJ3EJS/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1500212458&sr=8-5&keywords=mothers+detailing

I would say to at least hose off the coils. Use an adjustable spray nozzle and use the "shower" setting to rinse off any dirt.

I'm in CenCal and am not ready for the summer. A fresh new unit is gonna be NICE for you though. Lower bill and better efficiency. Enjoy.

TAKAVU Master Wheel Brush - $13.99

Beautiful rims. This helps to keep the inside of those babies clean.

Correct! I usually just use liberal amounts of saran wrap since the water spray is low pressure. You can sometimes find the Mr Clean car wash system for cheap at Big Lots or the like for $5. It has an anti-spotting formula that makes cleaning extra easy. But it's hardly the best thing out there, so don't spend much money on it.

I've been using something like this. It's a wonderful pad, highly recommend it.

Don't be discouraged. Mistakes are just a touch of character on the model. It's normal to be extra worried about it when starting out. Once you start playing though, you'll quickly realize, everyone has blemishes. Unless you are building your models for a painting competition, or trying to sell them as commissioned work, no one will care about a little extra glue/melted plastic.

Use something like these to apply the glue to help with applying too much. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B017YBW5Q4/ Put a little in a on old bottle cap then dab it onto the moddle with the applicator. Does that waste some glue? Absolutely. Do I get cleaner models? You bet.

Models with two arms on the gun can be a pain. One suggestion is to use blue tack instead of glue to get the dry-fit position down. Then you can glue with more confidence. In all honesty though I just dive right in using as little glue as possible. It will still take a few seconds to set, during which you have time to get it in the position you want.

I think I use this one: https://amzn.com/B00IALZ8BM

A denture brush might work if you want to get one locally. I have never tried it. You can also use a terry towel and just kind of clean it best you can with that.

I definitely do what that guy does. I try to break it down and then wipe it off.

Definitely:

There’s a mothers I use, I’m on my third one. When yo I first get it rinse it to get all loose hairs off. I’ve had it for 2 years. I buy them every 2-3 years just to make sure they’re clean, even though I use good practice. I know there’s a chemical guys that’s cheaper but I’ve never used it so I can’t comment on it. This one works for me. I like the shorter hairs, they don’t get caught in things. Once they go bad I recycle them by using them for dirty sections like lower sills, rear quarters etc... perhaps buying the chem guys for that would work too.

When I’m done washing it, I lay it on my clean grit guard and power wash both sides, then squeeze the shit out of it, and then hang it on a hook in my garage to air dry. Don’t leave it to dry in your bucket, it’ll smell like ripe ass, I promise. It’ll get hard when it dries so toss it in when you’re filling your wash buckets and let it soften up.


mothers mitt

The Rag Company has a green and blue set on Amazon that I love to use. For the price, they perform amazingly well and have lasted me months

-
(2-Pack) THE RAG COMPANY Premium Soft Microfiber Chenille Knobby SCRATCH-FREE, LINT-FREE Wash Mitts, One Royal Blue and One Lime Green https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00R54ULN0/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_QAD-wbJ18XVTF

A while ago I bought one of these: https://www.amazon.com/Mr-Clean-AutoDry-System-Starter/dp/B0006M56CE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1501438127&sr=8-1&keywords=mr+clean+car+wash

It has a water filter which removes a lot of the hard minerals. After rinsing the car, I rinse again with the filtered water.

And don't forget the standard stuff - make sure your car is not in direct sunlight and not hot to the touch when you spray water on it, and dry quickly afterwards. Also, a good waxing will help keep spots from forming.

I bought a Chemical Guys spray bottle from Amazon. The sprayer has something that rattles inside, sounds like a tiny ball or something. If I take the sprayer and shake it, it's pretty obvious. Is this normal?

By exposing your mint to more of the elements and creating a stronger plant. A little wind (even an electric fan) would help your mint. In the meantime, get a sprayer with a mist setting or a old style watering can.

this

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0009PCPNQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

and these

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001GJ3EJS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1

worked pretty well for me

So this one?

https://www.amazon.com/Mothers-155700-Wheel-Brush/dp/B001GJ3DZS
https://www.amazon.com/Mothers-Detail-Brush-Set-Pack/dp/B001GJ3EJS

and this

https://www.amazon.com/Omega-17181616-Speed-Master-Wheel/dp/B00E9E76F0

Why do you like this one better than say

https://www.amazon.com/EZ-Detail-3001-BP-Brush-Mini/dp/B007UTN60K

I know its almost always just what someone has or bought but figured I would ask. Thanks for the recommendations.

Touchup brushes like this are great for cleaning up messes like this

https://www.amazon.com/ABN-Fine-Point-Disposable-Brush-Applicator/dp/B017YBW5Q4/ref=pd_sbs_263_t_2/133-8810105-4050110?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B017YBW5Q4&pd_rd_r=75b00203-a950-4d44-94a0-a1d4ae39093d&pd_rd_w=OzSNQ&pd_rd_wg=djNRW&pf_rd_p=5cfcfe89-300f-47d2-b1ad-a4e27203a02a&pf_rd_r=FZV62SPEEFBACHSBTQYJ&psc=1&refRID=FZV62SPEEFBACHSBTQYJ

Something like this.

It's longer and softer so to me that means it's safer. I try and use a plush microfiber too so it can absorb more water as it pushes the snow off.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001GJ3E2K/ref=wms_ohs_product
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001GJ3EJS/ref=wms_ohs_product
used those brushes on my VMR v710's and worked pretty well.

I use this for a spot-free rinse when I wash, and it dries off absolutely spotless as long as I made sure to spray my car good.

To answer 3-5 for ya:
3. Yes
4. Yes, unless you're car is very dirty
5. a good hard bristled detailing brush or the one I have https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0007LMC1C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_4odDDb1MG2S64]

You want some of this: http://www.chemicalguys.com/DeCon_Pro_Iron_Remover_16_oz_p/spi21516.htm

And one of these: https://www.amazon.com/Speedmaster-17181616-Speed-Master-Wheel/dp/B00E9E76F0

They'll make your life infinitely easier!

I'm not sure what barrels are on wheels, but I clean my wheels with this.

What I used:

Mothers Microfiber Performance Drying Towel.

AmazonBasics Microfiber Cleaning Cloth, (Pack of 24).

Chemical Guys MIC_701_01 - Glass and Window Waffle Weave Towel.

Stoner 92164 Invisible Glass for Window, Windshield and Mirror Cleaner.

Rain-X 800002243 Glass Treatment.

Griot's Garage 10268 Micro Fiber Wash Mitt.

Optimum (NR2010Q) No Rinse Wash & Shine.

Eagle One 665854 All Wheel and Tire Cleaner.

Mothers Wheel Brush.

Mothers 10324 Reflections Tire Care.

Chemical Guys ACC_300_2 - Durafoam Contoured Large Tire Dressing Applicator Pad.

Meguiar's G14422 Ultimate Quik Detailer.

303 Products 30350 Aerospace Protectant.

Black & Decker CHV1510 Dustbuster 15.6-Volt Cordless Cyclonic Hand Vacuum.

(I live in an apartment complex... otherwise I'd probably get a shop vac).

Two 5 gallon buckets.

2 of The Grit Guard Inserts.

They look like this.

this is what I'm looking at:

cannon

washer

wash mits

adams kit 1

adams kit 2

adams applicator

I figure this setup will get me a few good washes under my belt before I need to buy more shampoo and detail. This puts me around $400, anything I'm missing?

Sure, here's everything...

Spotless water system:

https://www.autogeek.net/cr-spotless-water-systems.html?utm_campaign=8008446&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_content=201591135968&utm_term=cr%20spotless&gclid=CjwKCAjwqfDlBRBDEiwAigXUaEk4pHWhh9zjMsvhRa1Z6l3EDMUboth8Z32WUsxP2YX64rWOXEucNxoCm50QAvD_BwE

Air Dryer:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01B79BD6C?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

Wash Mits:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00R54ULN0?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

Grit Guards:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07KR6KGQ6?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

Pressure Washer:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00LX8Z03K/ref=ppx_yo_mob_b_old_o1_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Use one of these for the final rinse

https://www.amazon.com/Mr-Clean-AutoDry-System-Starter/dp/B0006M56CE

the status says "squeegeed" juice instead of "squeezed" juice

You can buy them separately, but it's just not the same…

Right here.

今まで海外から買ったものって…

• 本 (東南アジアにいた頃アメリカのAmazonから)
  
• CD
  
• BD, DVD (ジブリ)　← 安い & 日本語トラックは当然あり
  
• ナイフ
  
  他にあったかな
  
  今ならGoogle純正のスマホ + Copperhead OSとかだろうか
  https://copperhead.co/android/store
  …これはこのストアからしか買えなかった
  
  アメリカで激安の製品が日本の『並行輸入品』になるとバカ高くなっていることが極めて多いので、そういうもの（電気製品、クルマ用品など）があればお買い得
  
  例
  
  
• 洗車アイテム5点セット
  Amazon.com: $39.99
  Amazon.co.jp: ¥18,714
  
  
• 紙やすり（ベルトサンダー）を使った刃物研ぎ機
  Amazon.com: $129.95
  Amazon.co.jp: ¥26,020
  
  なお、アメリカの家電は120V前提なので、100V対応しているIT機器などでなければ変圧器が必要
  その場合は容量も確認すること
  旅行用の小さなトランスでは最大出力60W程度だったりする
  1KW以上の大容量が必要なら200V→120Vへ変換したほうがいいかも

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B017YBW5Q4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This is the gun, but it's way overpriced by itself. https://www.amazon.com/Chemical-Guys-EQP_312-Professional-Honeydew/dp/B00J5BUZIM/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?keywords=chemical%2Bguys%2Bfoam%2Bcannon%2Bkit&qid=1568080479&s=gateway&sprefix=chemical%2Bguys%2Bfoam%2Bcannon&sr=8-4&th=1&psc=1

I got it as part of this kit:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07PGQTNR6?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

Like djdish said, spray some apc then scrub it with a brush

Also, I would never use tire gel on my tires as they make the surface really slick, slippery, and resistant to water which is a bad thing on a bike, even on the sidewalls of the tire.

I used the nanoskin sponge to clay the entire car since the car is pretty new. I let the wax sit for an hour. I've never had much success with 845 even on different cars. I get about maybe 2 weeks MAX. That's on all waxes I have used. I always just wrote it off as my car not being able to be garaged and maybe dirty/mineraly hard water that my city has to use. Also, the way that I'm checking if the wax is still there is by observing how/if the water beads after rinsing and how the paint feels. Most of the time, it's no longer silky smooth and the water doesn't bead in nice circles anymore. The water beads in messy blobs.

 

My process goes:

1. Foam (let sit 3-5 minutes or until foam falls off)
   
2. Rinse
   
3. 2 bucket hand wash with gritgaurds panel by panel
   
4. Dry and/or nanoskin or clay
   
5. Apply wax panel by panel (let sit 1 hour after all panels have wax applied)
   
6. Clean windows and interior as I wait for wax
   
7. Wipe off wax
   
   This takes me about 4 hours...
   
    
   
   The products I use:
   
   

• Adams Car Shampoo
  
• The Rag Company Microfiber Mitt
  
• The Rag Company Window Towels
  
• The Rag Company Drying Towels
  
• The Rag Company Eagle Edgeless (to remove wax)
  
• Collinite 845 Insulator Wax
  
• SunJoe Electric Pressure Washer w/ MTM Foam Cannon
  Optum
  
• Optimum No Rinse & Shine as quick detailer/drying aid/clay lube
  
• Meguiar's Glass Cleaner

Why can't I clean my rotors?

I've sprayed on a ton of wheel cleaner (Chemical Guys). And this brush

It has a rough texture so even though I've been keeping up, it looks like this is actually surface rust and not just brake dust? Pic1 Pic2

Why are these in such bad shape? For reference the car is exactly one year old and hasn't been driven in about a month

2 buckets with grit guards are way too expensive, that's at least $40! Pair that with 2 reusable quality mitts at $30, you're looking at $70 wasted away.

SCREW THAT! Let me break out my $150 pressure washer, my $20 foam lance and $75 for 10 wash mitts It's so much better to do it my way and I save so much in product! /s