I've always struggled to keep my vehicles clean because 1) they were always old, 2) I've lived in condos, 3) car washes did a terrible job / detailers charged too much, and 4) I didn't realize you could do all of this yourself pretty effectively.


When I bought a new truck at the beginnging of the year, I randomly stumbled upon an Ammo NYC video and the nerd / clean-freak was intrigued. A couple dozen videos later, and I was hooked. Shout out to Larry for your passion - thank you for the insane amount of information on your channel. (Wish I could afford all of your products, or that you had some of them on Amazon!).

Living in a condo, I have to swing by my local coin wash and take up a bay with a few buckets during off-peak hours, but I've gotten it down to 1.5 hours and looking like this every time.

I've only been doing this for a few months, but thought I'd share the products I've researched and selected based on reviews and costs. Hope this helps save someone time!

TOOLS

• McGuire-Nicholas 22015 15-Inch Collapsible Tote - https://amzn.to/2HXGsvd - I love this thing. Handle is sturdy and holds every chemical I need.
  
• Relentless Drive Ultimate Car Wash Mitt - https://amzn.to/2KJC7td - Great mitt and would strongly recommend it. I've only used the mitt for a few washes so I can't comment on durability, but if I had to guess I think it's going to hold up. My only complaint is that it's so voluminous that it's difficult to rinse / wring out the dirt when using the two-bucket method. Not a big enough problem to look for another mitt, though.
  
  BUCKETS
  
  
• Chemical Guys ACC_101 Detailing Bucket Kit - https://amzn.to/2KJb552 - a good starter bucket, but it's worth calling out how much of this stuff is BS marketing: the bucket is only 4 gallons, the gamma lid can be bought for cheaper on amazon, the citrus gloss is OK, and the wash mitt is worthless / isn't going to hold up. I barely used the mitt once and fuzz falls off constantly when handling.
  
• Adam's Grit Guard Wash Bucket with Lid - https://amzn.to/2IoSflo - Better value than chemical guys, but the bucket is just a regular bucket ($4 at Home Depot) and the gamma lid can be purchased for $10-15 on Amazon. I'm not convinced grit guards are worth it, but more on that later.
  
• Grit Guard Washboard Bucket Insert - https://amzn.to/2HW4juZ - the product is well made and does what it's intended to do, but I'm skeptical of its value. Yes, rubbing your mitt on a washboard would intuitively get dirt to fall off, but is it actually more effective than using your hands (which you do anyway to wring out the mitt)? And I'm not buying that the fins "trap dirt." Anybody who looks at their rinse bucket while washing wheels for example can plainly see the water's black. Dirt's floating everywhere.
  
  
  CHEMICALS
  
  
• Mothers 08216 California Gold Instant Detailer - https://amzn.to/2KJ2f7t - this stuff has done a pretty good job for quick wipe-downs, spot cleans, etc.
  
• Griot's Garage 11108 Window Cleaner - https://amzn.to/2Iq5CSF - The spray bottle itself is awesome and works really well. The solution also seems to work well, though I've only ever used it after washing the truck and so I'm not sure how much it helps.
  
• Meguiar's G3626 Ultimate Waterless Wash & Wax - https://amzn.to/2jFg3DJ - I used this a few times with the microfiber directional pass method after some serious pollen clouds invaded Austin, and it worked surprisingly well. Ran through 3-4 towels to do my entire truck, then spot-cleaned with an instant detailer. Even though wheel wells and a few pieces were still dirty, it was a huge improvement without the hassle of a full wash. Will definitely be using this as my in-between wash method.
  
• Chemical Guys V7 High Gloss Spray Sealant and Quick Detailer - https://amzn.to/2HXiQ9R - I'm new to detailing, but this stuff is probably the most impressive chemical of everything I've used. The combination of a damp microfiber + V7 produces the result everyone thinks about when they think about car washes: a clean car with no streaks or water spots. Wringing out my microfiber towel can get old, but the end result is just awesome.
  
• Chemical Guys Citrus Wash and Gloss - https://amzn.to/2I1knvx - I don't have the luxury of a frother right now, but from simply adding some in a bucket and using a power washer to generate suds, I get decent foam and the soap seems to work well. That said, it's not earth-shattering and I will probably try other washes when I run out.
  
  
  INTERIOR
  
  
• Mothers 06512 All-In-One Leather Care - https://amzn.to/2IlawAg - This stuff works great and smells even better.
  
  
  WHEELS
  
  
• Adam's Deep Wheel Cleaner - https://amzn.to/2K09l6f - The spray bottle is terribly difficult to press and I always end up using way more than I want. I'm not confident I need to use this instead of just using soap. Maybe it's for exceptionally dirty cars or those with tons of brake dust, but I'm rarely in either camp so I may not buy some more after I run out.
  
• Adam's Hex-Grip Pro Tire Dressing Applicator - https://amzn.to/2HYtb5y - Works well and easy to handle.
  
• Mothers Wheel Brush - https://amzn.to/2K0Ky1Y - really like how easy this is to handle and how soft the bristles are. Highly recommended.
  
• Optimum Opti-Bond Tire Gel - https://amzn.to/2KJsxGP - This is a good low-gloss gel, though I need to try additional coats to see if I can get those tire shinier.
  
• ABN Car Wheel Rim Cleaning 3-Piece Kit - https://amzn.to/2KFgSIR - Yes the big woolie has good reach and allows you to clean the inside of your rims effectively, but the handle is annoyingly difficult to hold after it becomes saturated / heavy to hold.
  
  
  TOWELS
  
  
• Chemical Guys Professional Grade Premium Microfiber Towels, Gold - https://amzn.to/2HY8Q0a - these things are outsidanding and are a great value. Definitely watch Larry's video on microfiber care, which fixed all of my annoyances with microfibers accruing fuzz in the dryer.
  
• THE RAG COMPANY EAGLE EDGELESS 500 Korean 70/30 Super Plush 500gsm Microfiber Detailing Towels - https://amzn.to/2HYVmky - very high plush and high quality, though I end up using the Chemical Guys towels more often and save these for random spot details. Probably not ideal.
  
• THE RAG COMPANY Premium Window, Glass, Mirror & Chrome Korean 70/30 Microfiber - https://amzn.to/2rrveVg - work great for cleaning windows and mirrors.
  
• Nylon Laundry Bag - https://amzn.to/2rtYOcP - I have one bag for clean and one for dirty. Has done a great job of keeping dust off the rags during storage.

Ok, after four months with the car, here goes...

​

Charging

• Wall Connector $500. Not necessary but I'd recommend biting the bullet before taking delivery, so you can keep the mobile charger in the car. The electrical work took 2 hours of time, at $130/hr. I highly recommend installing a dedicated 60-amp breaker and an efficient gauge wire which will give you 45 mi/hr of charge.
  
• Charging Adapters $35. Car comes with the 5-15 and 14-50. I strongly recommend buying the 5-20. If you plan to charge at someone else's house on a roadtrip, ask them to send you a picture of their dryer plug. So far, I've needed the 10-30 and 14-30.
  
• NEMA 5-15P to 5-20R Adapter $20. Strongly recommended in combo with Tesla's 5-20 adapter to "cheat" a 16-amp charge (33% faster charging). Must-watch this video, and must-read here, here, here, and here.
  
  Tesla OEM
  
  
• Cargo Mats for Frunk & Trunk $70 & $130. Must-have some sort of trunk mat, since the trunk material is generally poor quality for heavy use.
  
• Front Sunshade $75. Living in Florida, this is a must-have if you dont plan on tinting the top glass panel. The "front" is acutally the middle of the three glass panels, not the windshield.
  
• Paint Repair Kit $55. Nice to have so you're ready for rock chips. So far I've had one that made it through the black paint and silver primer.
  
  Detailing
  
  
• Aero Cosmetics Complete Car Kit $40. Highly recommended. Pricey but saves time for amazing results. Cheaper and better quality than CarGuys products. I liked it so much that I ended up buying this also.
  
• Invisible Glass Spray Cleaner $4. Recommended that you have some glass cleaner that's not Windex. This brand is one of the best.
  
• Wash Mitt 2-pack $16. Highly recommended compared to a wet rag.
  
• Tire and Wheel Brush $8. It's important to segregate parts you use on wheels from parts you use on paint. This product is solid.
  
• Grit Guard $8. Totally optional. Helps separate dirt in the bucket when cleaning. You'll see a difference in the water.
  
  Third-Party
  
  
• Tough-Pro Interior Mats $80. My opinion is that all-weather mats are a must-have. The stock mats are crappy, and all-weather mats make cleaning easier. These are cheaper than Tesla's all-weather mats. I'm happy with them but I'd buy the OEM Tesla ones if I could do it again.
  
• Upgraded White LED Lights $13-$77. Must-have for the trunk. Optional for others. I replaced all 7 non-footwell. Easy install with a credit card. As a bonus, I have one left over, so PM me if you want it.
  
• Kenriko Matte Wrap for Center Console $30. Must-have. Watch his install videos first. Customer service is excellent if you screw up the install like I did. The matte black matches the black leather interior perfectly. I'm sure the matte white is nice too.
  
• Pet Cover for Trunk $45. I couldn't find anything better for driving my dogs, so I use this one with the back seats down, along with Tesla's rubber trunk mat. I'd say my setup prevents 90% of dog wear, and keeps any dog smell to a minimum.
  
• Nomad Wireless Charger $130. Nice to have. Not available until end of November, but battery is integrated unlike the comeptitor's.
  
• Rubber Cupholder Liners $25. Optional, helps with cleaning.
  
• Drop Stop $20. Optional, makes life easier.
  
• Air Compressor $25. Optional but recommended. Look for one with automatic shutoff.
  
• Tire Plug Kit $8. If you're handy, this is a cheap solution to be ready for a flat. If you're not handy, get Tesla's tire repair kit.
  
• Card Holder $5. Optional. Keep in your center console so valet has a way to hang your card key.

Definitely look into the Two Bucket method. I'll give a brief explanation though. Basically the idea of the two buckets is to clean dirt and other grime off of the wash mitt after it touches the car. Just dunking a mitt back into the bucket of wash is not entirely effective at this. This is were the Grit Guard come in. One of these is in each bucket, used to rub your mitt on to free up dirt. One bucket has your wash and the other is just water. The process would be: Mitt into Wash. Clean panel. Mitt into Rinse, rub against Grit Guard. Mitt back to wash, rub against Grit Guard again. Back to Car. The Grit Guard will also help trap loose dirt particles at the bottom of the bucket. The whole idea of the whole bucket system is to cut down on transferring dirt from the mitt back onto the paint and scratching it.

As far as other supplies, it's already been suggested to check out the Bare Minimum Supplies List, but also have a look at the Massive Product List.

I'd recommend picking up a tire gel as well. These last longer and won't sling.

Also, a good dedicated wheel cleaner goes a long way. While it may be a bit pricey, Sonax Full Effect Wheel & Tire cleaner is amazing at cleaning brake dust and other grime. It's also pH balanced so it's safe on any surface.

I've used Megs Deep Crystal Wax and it does not hold up very well. Not sure if that's the exact one you have, but if you want something that's going to provide the best bang per buck, I'd go with Collinite #845 Insulator Wax. Amazingly easy application and removal.

If you want a semi-gloss shine for the interior, I'd use 303 Aerospace Protectant. Awesome stuff. Acts as SPF 45 for your interior plastics, rubbers, whatever. Also works great in the engine bay.

However, if you aren't looking to "upgrade" any products, I'd definitely say pick up a clay bar. I've had good luck with Griot's Garage clay bar. Also, I've got the Mother's Clay Bar Kit and that worked quite well also. If you are wondering if your car needs to be clay bar'd or not, there's a simple test you can do. The "plastic Bag" test is very simple and effective and showing how contaminated the paint of your vehicle is. Basically, just put your hand in a plastic bag and rub it along a lubricated surface of your car. If it feels rough, the car needs clay barring. I recently got a 10 year old used car and the paint felt like sandpaper. Took me forever to clay it, but it brought back a lot of the shine because there was so much contamination dulling the paint.

Oh! How many microfiber cloths you have? If you're in need, be sure to check out The Rag Company. The Microfiber I got from them is amazing.

Let me know if you have an questions and hopefully I didn't ramble too much.

Hope this helps! This isn't an exhaustive list of the best professional products but some of the best top rated affordable and highly rated by forums and high subscriber YouTubers. I'll try to answer questions as they come. Thanks for all tye comments and positive/critical feedback. Promise is all helps in the end!

Wash/Decontamination

1. Meguiar’s Gold Class Shampoo Car Wash - $23 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071HR14SJ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07__o00_s04?ie=UTF8&psc=1
   
2. Mothers California Gold Clay Bar System (Best out of the packaged kits compared to “professional” line expensive clays/lubes) - $16 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002U2V1Y/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07__o00_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1
   
3. Carpro Iron X Iron Remover 500 ml with Sprayer - $19 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004UM6DLE/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
   
4. CarPro Eraser Intense Oil & Polish Cleanser (Rated a little higher than Gyeon Prep – A few options out there but this is cheap and works great compared to straight IPA spray/wipe. It’s not rough on the clear coat and doesn’t cause issues with using higher % of IPA over time) - $17 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FY0XY1S/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
   
5. 2x Five-Gallon buckets with a dirt guard in the bottom. – Lowe’s $10-$15 with the dirt guard (already had that)
   
   Wheels/Tires
   
6. CarGuys “Premium Wheel Cleaner” - $17 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B014V9GFJU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07__o00_s05?ie=UTF8&psc=1
   
7. Mothers Mag & Aluminum Polish (Classic Product but you really won’t find a more reliable and top notch wheel polish than this – Here is Amazon link but usually you can pick this up cheaper at Walmart for about $4 or $5 I believe) - $7 - https://www.amazon.com/Mothers-05101-Mag-Aluminum-Polish/dp/B0009H519Y/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1549046381&sr=8-3&keywords=mag+and+aluminum+polish
   
8. 1x 2.5 Gallon Bucket Dedicated To Wheel Cleaning ONLY – Lowe’s $5
   
   Compounding/Polishing
   
9. Meguiar’s New m110 (Newer m105) Compound (Try To Find A 15% Coupon) - $40 - https://www.autopia-carcare.com/meguiars-m110-pro-compound.html#.XFRhIlVKhpg
   
10. Meguiar’s New m210 (Newer m205) Finishing Polish/Swirl Remover (Try To Find A 15% Coupon) - $40 - https://www.autopia-carcare.com/meguiars-m210-pro-finishing-polish.html#.XFRhIVVKhpg
    
11. 6x Pack Lake Country CCS Compounding/Polishing Pads – 3x Orange/2x White/1x Green – $60 (Try to find a usable 15% coupon) - https://www.autopia-carcare.com/ccs-pads.html#.XFRfgVVKhpg
    
12. Meguiar’s PlastX Clear Plastic Cleaner & Polish (Using for rear/front light polishing – Could use your compound to polish as an alternative but I like the protection factor built into this plastic polish) - $5 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0000AY3SR/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    
13. Car Foam Drill Polishing Pad Kit - 22x Piece 3” Buffing Pads (Cheap drill adapter + pads for head/tail lights only – You could go with a legit company for 3” pads but for the cost it was a joke and they are only for head/tail lights, NOT paint) - $11 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B076ZJMHB1/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    
    
    Finshing Wax/Protectant/Plastic & Trim Restorer
    
14. Meguiar’s Ultimate Liquid Wax - $16 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004HCM9H4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07__o00_s05?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    
15. TriNova Plastic & Trim Restorer (Hard Pressed to find anything as affordable for the ratings) - $13 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01AAZ1OAE/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    
    
    Interior/Glass Cleaners
    
16. 303 PROTECTANT: Interior & Exterior UV Protectant (Use it to wipe leather seats, dash, and plastics) - $10 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0185PU38A/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07__o00_s05?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    
17. Invisible Glass Premium Glass Cleaner w/ EZ Grip (Awesome stuff) - $4 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KAON5Q2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07__o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    
    
    Convertible Fabric Top Cleaner/Protectant/Sealer
    
18. RaggTopp Fabric Convertible Top Cleaner/Protectant Kit (This is top in class. There aren’t really any other higher rated options. Go with kit that has cleaner/brush/protectant sealer.) - $50 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008MM5ZFI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    
    
    Microfiber Cloths/Car Drying Microfiber Cloths/Buffing Microfibers/Brushes/Etc.
    
19. Zwipes Microfiber Cleaning Cloths (24-Pack) (**Found this on a couple lists online for high ratings and they are soft/Highly rated on Amazon and cheap!) - $13 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ANZHG7C/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07__o00_s04?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    
20. Chemical Guys Chenille Microfiber Premium Scratch-Free Wash Mitt (Might consider 2-3 of them for washing the top and bottom parts of car – prevent further scratching) - $7 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003TTL0TE/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07__o00_s04?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    
21. Mothers Wheel Brush - $8 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001GJ3DZS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07__o00_s04?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    
22. Chemical Guys Microfiber Wash Cleaning Detergent Concentrate (Almost all the videos put this one as #1 compared to a couple other companies that offer dedicated microfiber wash detergent) - $10 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001TJXWH4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    
23. Chemical Guys Woolly Mammoth Microfiber Dryer Towel (25 in. x 36 in.) - $25 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0042Z0LEO/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    
24. Other Random buffing foam applicators and microfiber cloths that came with some of the kits listed above. Will use those for compound wiping and etc.
    
25. Plastic Containers For Organization – Hefty 1.625 (Microfiber container) & 3.75 (Other products w/o squirt triggers) Gallon Containers I believe are the ones in the picture. These are awesome considering the cheap pricing. The plastic is heavy duty and the lathes aer decent all things considered. - https://www.lowes.com/pd/Hefty-1-625-Gallon-6-5-Quart-Clear-Tote-with-Latching-Lid/1000505511
    
    

I'm reposting some suggestions I made from a previous similar thread, hope it works out for you (the last person's budget was $100; not sure what yours is, but you can pick and choose!)

 

Optimum No Rinse: Concentrated and capable of being diluted as a wash, quick detailer, clay lubricant, window cleaner, light interior cleaner, and more.

Optimum Opti-Seal: Incredibly easy to use sealant (wipe on and walk away!), can be used in place of RainX on windows, good drying aid, and useful as an interior dressing as well. Opti-seal ALL the things!

Detailing brushes: Because every detailer can use more brushes!

Nanoskin Autoscrub Sponge: Makes the process of decontaminating your paint much faster. Much longer life than clay and can be used even after dropped on the ground! Use the ONR as lubricant and you save tons of money.

The Rag Company Eagle Edgeless Towels, 4 pack: These will be the best towels he's ever used.

The total for all of this should be $97.96, just under your budget :)

 

A couple other suggestions if you want to mix and match:

Smaller Opti-Seal: Since it's the biggest budget item here and a little goes a long way, you can go with the small one to include more items in your bundle.

Adam's Wheel Cleaner: The least terrible smelling wheel cleaner, but extremely effective as well. Good if that truck throws a lot of brake dust.

CarPro PERL: For protecting exterior plastics as well as dressing them, and for use as a satin look tire dresing.

Wheel Woolies: Makes cleaning wheels a much nicer experience, and won't fling brake dust into your face like the brushes do.

Hope this helps! If you want any more specific recommendations for any category, feel free to ask! As for things to avoid, Armorall, Turtlewax and Chemical Guys in my opinion.

I would reccomend these materials for the two bucket wash method. Its probably the most common method, and one of the safest. There are plenty of youtube how to's on this. These are the materials you'll need.

• Two buckets that will be used for the two bucket wash method. They can be purchased from a local home center for relatively cheap. $10
  
• Grit Guards. Preferably two, in order to prevent grit from reentering the wash mitt. $20
  
• Wash Mitt. Something like this will be just fine. $8
  
• Car soap. This is completely up to you. Something like Meguiar's Gold Class is fine. $10
  
  
• Wheel brush. Dependent on what you type of wheels you have. A quick amazon search will give you an idea. $10-20
  
• Sealant. I use Meguiar's M21. Not the best not the worst. Im sure others will chime in an have recommendations for you. $20.
  
• Wax. I don't use a wax because my car is older, and the sealant does just fine.
  
  
• Microfibers. The Rag Company has some great starter kits.
  
  Not Necessarily essentials, but recommended.
  
  
• Wheel cleaner. Something like Sonax. $15
  
• Clay Bar. This will be used to intitially remove contaminants from the car. Plenty of youtube how to's and kits can be found easily through amazon or your local auto parts store. $20
  
  I don't think you need anything like a DA at this point. Others will have recommendations for you, and I encourage you to take their advice as well. Some great youtube channels are Ammo NYC, Larry is a master at explaining how to's. He has is own line of products but they're expensive. You can even email him with questions and he'll respond quickly and go above and beyond to explain somethingto you. Junkman, also another great channel. Chemical Guys, they have some pretty good products but their customer service is shit. Their youtube videos are pretty good but all they do is upsell their products.
  
  I'm fairly new to detailing like you. I dont have the best products, but what I use seems to work for me. There are better products out there but budgets can only be so large.
  

2015 Ford Focus ST

I performed my Express Detail on this 2015 Ford Focus ST for a client. This client emailed me Thanksgiving morning hoping I could help with a gift his best friend "spilled" in his vehicle. I couldn't help him since I was on my way out of town, but I gave him instructions of how to help get the gift out. He ended up booking me to come over when I got back :)

His car is pretty new (a month + if I remember correctly), so my Express Detail was perfect for his vehicle.

This package is my most popular as I believe it's the most bang for your buck (or at least I tried to price it that way).

Products Used:

Wash

• Meg's Gold Class Shampoo
  
• Pressure Washer Foam Cannon
  
• Ryobi Pressure Washer
  
• Microfiber Chenille microfiber mitt
  
  Wheels
  
  
• APC (All Purpose Cleaner)
  
• Lug Nut Brush
  
• Wheel Master Brushes
  
  Decontamination
  
  
• IronX
  
  Clay
  
  
• Nanoskin Fine Sponge
  
• ONR (Lube Dilution)
  
  1-Step
  
  
• HD Speed
  
• Rupes Green Pad
  
  Interior
  
  
• ONR diluted for quick detailer
  
• Costco microfibers
  
• Boars hair brush
  
  Notes
  
  I found out that there is a special trick to putting this car in reverse. It involves lifting the collar below the shift knob. It's actually pretty interesting.
  
  Price: $215 + TIP
  
  Time: 4.5-5 Hours
  
  Thank you for your business fellow redditor :)

> Griots Garage Fiber Mit

Great kit.

> 2 or 3 buckets with Grit Guards

You can stick to 2 buckets to save money and just rinse it out after washing the wheels before starting your wash.

> Several Brushes for my wheels/Liners

I suggest getting the following brushes. Mothers wheel brush, Mother's wheel well brush, Tuf Shine tire brush. Then buy some wheel woolies if you want to clean your barrels without taking off the wheels.

>Soap

I suggest Chemical Guys, Meguiar's, or CarPro for your soap.

>I do a pre-soak with a hose powered foamer...do I need a special soap for this step?

A high foaming soap will be best for this. Most Chemical Guys soap works pretty well. I would suggest not getting a hose powered foam gun. Unless you're going off roading its not worth it. It's best to save up for a power washer and a foam lance.

> Plenty of microfiber towels

Make sure to buy some crappy towels for your dirty jobs like drying wheels, cleaning the undercarriage, and the carpets. I suggest zwipe microfiber towels for the cheap ones, and the rag companies eagle edgeless towels for your nice pair.

> Interior spray (I like the Meguiars Natural Finish, this okay?)

I have not had experience with that one yet. I have tried the Meguiars quik interior detailer before and it makes the plastics look stock. It doesn't do much cleaning, more of a finishing step. If you want to clean the interior I suggest getting Optimum Power Clean (diluted 1:10) or Chemical Guys NonSENSE (diluted 1:10).

> Waffle Towels (Oddles of them!)

Once your car is waxed you'll only need 2 large towels to dry your car. I really like the Chemical Guys waffle towels because they have good value for the money. Cobra towels are way better but way more expensive. I've heard the rag company has good ones too.

> See if I can get my hands on a leaf blower with a filter on it.

I bought a troy bilt leaf blower for $40 at home depot and it works pretty well.

I think you're forgetting 3 things.

• Clay - the meguiar's clay kit you can buy over the counter is pretty good. Otherwise get a clay alternative like nanoskin autoscrub. If you get the alternative I suggest getting Optimum No Rinse and diluting it 1:8 for a lubricant.
  
• Wax - I suggest getting a was with fillers in it so it hides some small scratches. Meguiars NXT liquid wax and Collinite #845 are both really good.
  
• APC - an all purpose cleaner can be diluted to fulfill multiple purposes. Meguiars D101, Optimum Power Clean, and Chemical Guys NonSENSE are my favorite APC's at the moment. Each can be diluted to do different tasks. 1:10 for interior, 1:4 for NASTY interiors/carpets, 1:1 or undiluted for tires and trim.

Definitely check out /r/AutoDetailing where I learned my method.

The way I do it:

Equipment:

1. Optimum no rinse I use the green version (the one linked) that has wax, but there's also a blue one without wax. Either one is fine I just prefer this one.
   
   
2. Bucket. Any clean one will do.
   
   
3. A shit ton of microfiber towels. The Rag Company is a popular brand to go with. I just go with a pack from costco and they work fine for me.
   
   
4. Spray bottle. 1-2.
   
   
5. Isopropyl alcohol. Dilute it down so it's 10-20% in concentration. Put it in the spray bottle or use a cup/bucket.
   
   
6. Nanoskin or clay. I use nanoskin so I linked that. Otherwise just get some clay. Most people in /r/autodetailing say any brand of clay is usually fine. I use nanoskin because it's a bit quicker and I have a new car so it works fine. Some people seem to say that clay gets your car a bit cleaner, but it's not worth the time trade off for me especially since my car is still new-ish so still clean.
   
   
7. Opti-seal. I like using this because it's quick, easy and works great. Gives a good shine too.
   
   Washing:
   
   
8. Use the rinseless method. You'll find it in the wiki of autodetailing. To prep: dilute ONR down to the recommended amount in your bucket. Fill up spray bottle. Throw microfiber towels in the bucket in the rest of the solution. Ring out the towel so it's not sopping wet, but there's still solution. Fold the microfiber towels into four.
   
   
9. Work on only one car panel at a time. Spray the panel with the ONR. Wipe panel down firmly, but not really hard, with one side of your towel. Then turn to a different side of the towel. Do not re-use that side of your towel. Use a fresh side of the towel for every panel. Use a dry towel to wipe off that panel so there are no water streaks. Repeat until your car is washed. ONR works fine on glass too so you can just do your windows as well.
   
   Rinseless washing is great when your car is mildly to semi-dirty. This means if it's mostly just dust on your car this is great. Otherwise if it's caked with mud this won't work. You'll have to go somewhere to hose your car off with water first so it's not as dirty.
   
   Clay Bar/Nanoskin:
   
   Note: This is only necessary if there are actually micro-contaminants. I would do it on a new car regardless since it has been sitting on a lot. On a normal basis you only need to do when your car doesn't feel glass smooth after a wash. Usually no more than 1-2 times a year.
   
   
10. Because you can also use ONR as your clay lube I just pour out my bottle of ONR spray back into the bucket and pour in enough ONR until it gets to the concentration needed. ONR says 2oz per gallon of water. Fill your spray bottle back up with the new concentration.
    
    
11. Here you'll be working with small sections of a panel at a time. I suggest you just look up a youtube video on how to clay a car. Basically though you spray the section, clay/nanoskin the section until smooth, and wipe off the section with a dry towel. Repeat for your whole car. Note that you'll have to massage the clay or wash off your nanoskin every so often to get rid of those contaminants.
    
    Sealant/wax:
    
    After you're done with claying your paint is clean so you'll want to put wax/sealant on it to protect it. It'll make your car nice and shiny too.
    
    Start with an isopropyl alcohol wipe. What I do is dunk a towel in the alcohol solution and wipe down every panel and drying after it. You can also just fill another spray bottle with it and spray. This will get rid of oil/wax/sealant so the sealant goes directly on the paint. Then just apply the sealant/wax on following the instructions. With opti-seal you just spray and wipe. With some other items you'll need to apply and wait to cure and buff out any remaining wax/sealant.
    
    For wheels and tires I suggest you just check out the wiki on autodetailing. I just simply wipe off the tires with ONR but ONR isn't the best at getting oil. I'm too lazy though to worry about it too much as long as the wheels look clean it's fine with me.
    
    I'm lazy and do a rinseless wash 1-2 times (usually 1) a month. Some do it weekly. I put sealant on every 3-4 months or so. I've only clayed my current car once so far.
    
    

Really detailing a car that's pretty dirty takes more than 30 minutes so dissolve yourself of that idea from the start. The main tool to get an interior clean will be a wet/dry shop vac (note that the ones that you put quarters in are never wet vacs and you risk shocking yourself silly if you use it that way as well as destroying the surprisingly expensive machine, don't do that). Get yourself a detailing brush (something like this, most auto parts places will have them) and put that in one hand and your vac hose in the other. Get at everything you can. Get as much of the chunks and dust as you can get to.

Work the carpet real good to get as much out of it as you can. There will be lots of sand and crap like that worked in to the fibers. Where you've got seams in the seats, spread them open and vacuum the crud out. Take the floor mats out and vacuum them separately. I usually hit the floor mats with a pressure washer. If you go to one of those self service car washes they usually have clamps on the wall to hang your mats while you blast them and that works really well. Floor mats see a lot of grime though and often times they'll be too far gone to bring back.

Next get a bucket with some hot water and something like Mr. Clean mixed in about 10:1. You'll want a microfiber rag and an old toothbrush. Go over all the hard surfaces paying extra attention to stuff that you touch a lot like the steering wheel, door handles and all the buttons and what not. Use the tooth brush to get into the corners and stuff. For buttons and switches, use the toothbrush mostly dry. Scrub a bit, wipe it clean with the rag and scrub more if needed. Do this where you have lots of light so you can really see what your doing. If you've got things like cup holders with grungy sticky goop in the bottom you can squeeze some soapy water into there, let it sit for a minute then suck it back out with the vac. Move the seats all the way up then all way the back when you're doing this so you can get into everything as much as possible.

If you've got leather, hit all that up with up with a leather cleaner followed by a conditioner. I really like Lexol products for this. They will leave your leather feeling wonderfully supple and smelling like new leather. Follow the instructions on the bottles. It goes apply cleaner per instructions, wipe clean with a damp rag then dry. Apply conditioner per instructions, let it soak in/dry then buff with a clean rag.

Hit all the hard plastic and soft vinyl surfaces with a cleaner/conditioner. I hate Armor All, it leaves everything shiny and greasy/sticky. Dust will be sucked to it like a magnet and it will look cheap and shitty in a few days. The Turtle Wax Ice products are a lot better IMO. It leaves a dry matte finish.

Finally you want to shampoo all the carpets and upholstery. Use the same mix 10:1 mix of water and cleaner, but get a fresh bucket of it. You'll want a stiff bristle scrub brush for this part. Slop a bunch of your soapy water on and scrub the bejesus out of it. Do a single area at a time, like one foot well. Suck as much of the water back out as you can with the vac. If you've got fabric seats, hit those up as well but don't get them so wet, they'll soak up a lot of water and make your butt wet for a while every time you get in the car if you go overboard. When you're all done with this, park the car in the sun with the windows open just a crack to bake the moisture out.

The last step is cleaning the windows real good. A good cleaner makes all the difference here. Stoner's Invisible Glass is the best I've found. If you've got a lot film on the glass, it can be helpful to start with straight isopropyl alcohol to cut through that. Use a paper towel for the initial grime. Finish with the glass cleaner and a lint free cotton towel (old dress shirts are great for this). Make sure you get all the way to the corners of the glass. Roll the windows down a couple inches and get the part at the top that's against the seal. I usually buff up all the shiny surfaces with this last step (gauge faces, radio display, mirrors, door handles, etc.).

Phew. So that's the interior. I'll leave the exterior for some one else (one tip though, Bar Keepers Friend and Magic Eraser sponges work wonders on wheels). Detailing is aptly named. It's all about paying attention the little stuff. To do a full interior on moderately neglected sedan sized car will probably take you about 4 hours. A pro can do it in half that. A minivan or SUV coated in child slime will be double that. If your fingers and back are sore the next day, you probably did it right.

Microfiber list looks pretty good! You may want to add a few of these for other various purposes so you don't use your nicer more expensive towels for extra dirty stuff like around your exhaust or wheels/wheel wells/in your engine bay. Also I'm pretty sure you can get a bucket with a screw on lid at home depot for pretty cheap, but all in all it's not a bad kit because it comes with the soap and grit guard and wash mitt. As for the bucket for your supplies, again I'm sure there's something cheaper at home depot.

Chemical guys makes some pretty good stuff and some pretty bad stuff. They're more of a marketing brand than a good detailing product brand. I'd replace the glass cleaner with Stoner Invisible Glass...can also be found at walmart or autozone usually.

Their degreaser is good and can be diluted so it should last a while. Never used their wheel cleaner, but it looks okay. The microfiber detergent isn't necessary really, just get something like this for a lot cheaper. Just make sure you wash your microfibers separately and DO NOT use fabric softener on them. Be aware that some detergents have fabric softener mixed in. Do not use those detergents. The tire brush is good, but you may also want one like this to get into the inside of your wheels more.

honestly, i wouldn't get either of those. yeah they're both good, but you really don't need all of that.

what i use:

griot's garage clay

meguairs soap

mothers cleaner wax

nu finish

and of course a (or a couple) 5 gallon buckets with a grit guard , which is completely not necessary, but highly recommended by professional detailers. i don't use one, and my car comes out fine. and a good, soft wash mitt. either a good sponge or a wheel brush for your wheels would be needed as well.

my once a year routine is as follows:

wash, claybar, nu polish, cleaner wax

usually wash every 2 weeks or so, and rewax every 6 weeks or so. if i did a bunch of off roading and the paint is gritty i'll clay as needed, but usually it's once a year.

also head over to /r/autodetailing for a lot of tips. beware though that they use a lot of very high end products, and circle jerk over polishing and getting perfect reflections. if all you're looking to do is keeping your paint in good condition, then what i do is just fine. if you're interested in keeping your paint better than factory, follow them.

There was this one here, but it’s out of stock. Decent price too.

There’s also this. It’s an off brand (but I mean 90% of stuff comes from China anyway) and the brush bristles are soft.

This too. I don’t know how good microfiber is on wheels though. I personally have one similar to this that I bought in a kit from Costco, and use it for interior. But with a true brush style you can just rinse it out, vs microfiber that’s stains and needs to be washed.

There’s also this one. I’m pretty sure Canadian Tire has a smaller one to, but I can’t seem to see it on the site. Was in a store a few weeks ago and I think I saw one.


For something like wheels and tires, I don’t really see a point in spending crazy money on brushes. That may be an insult to people, but just as a hobby, I care that my rims are clean. For paint I use good towels and mitts (obviously to not scratch the paint) but for wheels, I’d rather save the money. I haven’t felt a good pro quality wheel brush vs a random one from Amazon or in-store, but even if I did, I don’t see how I’d justify the price difference (compared to something like a Eagle Edgeless 500 vs some random microfiber towel)

Waxing is simple. There are a ton of products these days that won't require much work to keep your car protected. The easiest are the spray waxes. Use after you wash once a month(or more) and you'll be nice an protected. If you need some paint correction (i.e. polishing) and you aren't comfortable with it, you will have to spend a couple hundred if you want someone to do a good job and not actually damage the paint. Be careful of the "FUll Detail" for under $100 guys. If correction is what you need, I can suggest Odds and Ends Detailing in Sterling. If that is too far out from where you are, you might want to give them a call and ask if they can recommend someone closer. The owner is a very nice guy.

​

Some general tips on keeping your car looking good.

1. Start with clean paint. Wash. At minimum claybar (easy to do, research online) then apply a wax or sealant. Sealants also come in spray form and will provide additional protection. It can be topped with wax after a few days if you want even more protection and beading. Note: Claybar is only needed once a year if you keep your car clean and protected.
   
2. When washing, use a two bucket method. Look it up.
   
3. Get a good washing mitt. They aren't expensive. I use this one: https://www.amazon.com/Chemical-Guys-MIC_493-Microfiber-Scratch-Free/dp/B003TTL0TE/ref=sr_1_5?crid=F45IEAEIK2RF&keywords=chenille+wash+mitt&qid=1559133753&s=gateway&sprefix=chenille+wash%2Caps%2C197&sr=8-5
   
4. Get some good drying towels. I suggest waffle weave drying towels. Get 2-3 that are 24x36 or similar.
   
5. Get some additional microfiber towels for spot cleaning.
   
6. Be careful washing in the full sun. Rinse will dry fast and leave watermarks.
   
7. Don't use automatic car washes. They leave micro swirls. In the winter just use one of those touch less washes when salt gets on your car.
   
8. Do not wash your drying towel / microfiber towels with the rest of your laundry. Do them separate. Use a mild detergent with no fabric softener like Woolite. Dry on low or air dry.

Been slowly building up 'maintenance' type supplies and think I'm on the right track but have a few questions. Here's what I've got:

• Meg's Quick Interior Detailer
  
• 303 protectant
  
• Meg's Ultimate Quik Wax (spray)
  
• Meg's Ultimate Quik Detailer (spray)
  
• Some MF pads
  
• [Detailing brushes]
  (https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01CWBDBFU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
  
• Tire dressing applicators
  
• Mother's wheel brush
  
• Costco MF towels
  
  And probably some other random stuff. Most of what I've listed above I haven't even used yet! So some quick questions!
  
  

1. I have been considering getting some Meg's APC. Am I correct that I could use this on tires, light buildup on tailpipes, Husky (like Weatherbeater) all-weather floor mats? Any guidelines on dilution for these applications; and what else could the APC be used for?
   
2. For interior cleaning, can I safely use the Meg's QID with the brushes to get inside crevices including around switchgear without risk of short-circuiting something?
   
3. QID on a MF OK to clean nav/LCD screens?
   
   We had both of our cars detailed a couple months ago by someone who has a small side business in our neighborhood, so they are in pretty good shape, and just want to keep them that way. At some point in the future, I may consider getting a DA but for now just want to get better at regular maintenance.
   
   Thanks for reading this long-winded post!

How To: Decontaminate your paint & wheels

1. Gather your supplies. I have used a combination of a paint safe iron dissolving product, a clay bar, and a Nanoskin Sponge (picture 1)
   
2. WARNING: If you are using an iron dissolving product, DO NOT have your car parked in the sun. Remember the flash point with chemicals? You do not want something strong enough to dissolve metal particles drying on your paint. Liberally spray the product on your paint, focus on the areas around the wheels as obviously kick up crap from the roads (picture 2).
   
3. You should see a color change happening just as if you had sprayed the product on your wheels. Note: Because of the dark color of my car, I couldn’t get the camera to capture any color change efficiently. Dwell time shouldn’t really last longer than 5 minutes or so.
   
4. Hose down the car. Yes, if you’re doing this step you’ll have to dry the car again. But you know how to do it now, so it shouldn’t be too bad!
   
5. I like to clay bar the wheels next. I’m using an old piece of clay, and seeing as my wheels are pretty beat up already, I don’t really care. However, a new(er) piece of clay is always recommended. Examine the wheels. See any bits of tar or brake dust that didn’t come off from washing? (picture 4)
   
6. Lube up the wheels using the product of your choice. For the wheels, I am using QD strength ONR. One the paint, I like to use the leftover soap from the wash bucket during the 2 bucket wash. Note: water is NOT an adequate lube for clay. Using back and forth motions, not circles, rub the clay on the wheels using medium pressure (picture 5).
   
7. Examine to see if the problem area has been resolved (picture 6).
   
8. Continue onto the rest of the wheels (picture 7).
   
9. When clay becomes too dirty, fold and kneed it up until you can longer see the dirt accumulated (picture 8).
   
10. When you can longer find a clean side, it is time to toss the clay (picture 9).
    
11. If you drop clay, it’s time to toss it. This sucks, especially when you have just broken off a new piece to use. Clay picks up anything it touches, dropping it on the ground renders it useless (picture 10).
    
12. NanoSkin products act the same way as clay. However, they require no refolding, last longer, and if you drop them you can just wash them off. The only real downside is that they tend to be a little more expensive, but are totally worth it in my experience. The sponge (which I am using) is the cheapest option. They also offer mitts, towels, and pads for a DA.
    
13. Dunk the sponge in the wash bucket (picture 13).
    
14. Using back and forth and up and down motions, ‘clay’ the paint (picture 14). Again, use medium pressure. No need to ‘grind’ the sponge into the paint. Note: when using soap as clay lube, I like to hose down the panel first again to give the soap extra lubrication. I know I know, you just hosed down the car and dried it again. It really isn’t so bad. It seems like a lot of steps backward, but trust me, you’re moving forward!
    
15. Oh no! You dropped your sponge! (picture 15)
    
16. No worries, hose it off and you’re good! (picture 16)
    
17. I like to work in half panels at a time, and remember to start from the roof down. This way when you rinse off the car again, you’re working from the top down and not going back and forth.
    
18. I will be tackling window decontamination in the Sealing ‘How to’.
    Note: When using a clay bar and/or sponge, you will feel the contaminants being picked up. When running over the paint or wheels, you’ll feel little bumps. Keep the clay/sponge motion going and the bumps should go away. It’ll start to feel smooth. To be 100% sure you’ve gotten everything up, place your hand in a plastic sandwich baggy and run your hand over the paint. Because of the ‘finer’ surface area of the bag, you’ll feel what you missed. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ml434m7ILNA Here is a video of Mike Phillips explaining it.
    
    Congrats! Your car should be contaminant free and ready to be polished!
    
    
    Dodo Juice Ferrous Dueller
    
    The Mother's & Meguiar's Clay Bar Kits can be found over the counter for about $15-20.
    
    NanoSkin Fine Grade Sponge
    
    Optimum No Rinse
    
    CG Citrus Wash & Gloss

Here's a long thing I wrote for a friend just getting started. It was an email and i don't feel like fixing links.

1. Menzerna (Now called Jescar) Power lock Sealant:
   
   https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0050IQH9K/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
   
   
2. Optimum Spray Wax (this is a topper wax to go on top the sealant, or touch up areas any time):
   
   https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GG9FI8I/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
   
   
3. Meguiar's Drying Towels (I HIGHLY recommend these, super effective) I got 2:
   
   https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0009IQZFM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
   
   
4. Mother's detailer kit (gives you detail spray, clay bars, and micro fiber towel as a bonus)
   
   https://smile.amazon.com/Mothers-07240-California-Gold-System/dp/B0002U2V1Y/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1476666101&sr=8-3&keywords=mother%27s+detail+kit
   
   
5. Applicator pads
   
   https://smile.amazon.com/Viking-862400-Blue-Microfiber-Applicator/dp/B0051MYL8E/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1476666178&sr=8-3&keywords=wax+applicator
   
   
6. Buffing towels (for buffing in the wax or sealant)
   
   https://smile.amazon.com/Detailing-Multi-Use-Microfiber-Professional-Dual-Pile/dp/B01L4L4L26/ref=sr_1_17?ie=UTF8&qid=1476666651&sr=8-17&keywords=microfiber+buffing+towel
   
   
   
7. Proper wash mitt (just a microfiber towel won't cut it) - there's also a 2 pack with prime.
   
   https://smile.amazon.com/Meguiars-X3002-Microfiber-Wash-Mitt/dp/B000RXKR6M/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1476667551&sr=8-1&keywords=meguiars+wash+mitt
   
   
8. Car wash (this can be found at any autozone like store as well, this is a big bottle)
   
   https://www.amazon.com/Mothers-05664-California-Gold-Wash/dp/B0009H51B2/ref=sr_1_9?rps=1&ie=UTF8&qid=1476668207&sr=8-9&keywords=car+wash&refinements=p_85%3A2470955011
   
   
   
   
   Do you have 2 buckets to use? Always set one bucket up with the soap water, and the other with just water. Soak up your mitt, wash the car, rinse the mitt, then soak again in the soap water. This helps reduce contaminants. If you want to go the extra mile, get these for the buckets to prevent dirt from swashing around the bucket:
   
   https://smile.amazon.com/Grit-Guard-Insert-Red-Diameter/dp/B000N3W8J0/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1476667750&sr=8-2&keywords=grit+guard
   
   It fits in a home depot bucket.
   
   If you have particularly pesky tar or bugs on the car, you'll need this that you can get from any autozone type store:
   
   https://smile.amazon.com/Stoner-Car-Care-Tarminator-Remover/dp/B0002LBGWI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1476667917&sr=8-1&keywords=tarminator
   
   WARNING **
   
   When using the power lock (or any sealant / non-liquid wax), DO NOT let it touch any black plastic or rubber parts of the car!!!!! If it does, just wipe it off with a wet micro fiber cloth. Failure to follow this will result in a white hue on the black piece. You could always painter's tape off those areas that are hard to avoid.
   
   Steps for this process:
   
   
9. wash the car, two bucket method with wash mitt.
   
   1b) Bring the car to an area with as little sun light as possible for the next steps!
   
   
10. Leave car wet. Use detail spray to keep all surfaces lubricated. Rub all surfaces down with a flat piece of the clay bar (flatten in your hand). About 2" diameter or so. Every panel or when the clay bar looks dirty, just kneed it a few times, folding it and re-flattening it. Every so often, throw out the clay and get some more. If you drop the clay on the ground, it's garbage throw it out. Each clay bar should last you multiple details of your whole car, just tear pieces off.
    
    
11. Dry the car down with the MF drying towels. Buff in any water spots, streaks, etc from the detail spray. If an area needs a little extra love, spray some detail spray on it and rub her in.
    
    
12. Use applicator pad. Apply a bit of sealant on the pad, even it out in the pad, and apply a thin layer of wax across the paint surface (NOT BLACK TRIM). You can use sealant on windows if you desire. Re-apply sealant to the applicator pad whenever you need more.
    
    
13. let the sealant dry (20-30 minutes, depending on conditions). It will haze when dry.
    
    
14. Use buffing cloths to wipe the haze out. You may need to do some hand "buffing", use different angles of sight to make sure the paint is now completely smooth and clean.
    
    
15. Let dry a bit, 20 minutes?
    
    
16. Spray VERY LIGHTLY with the optimum spray wax on paint surfaces. There are 2 settings on the bottle, make sure it is on the setting that spreads out the wax not a stream.
    
    
17. Buff in the spray wax with buffing towels.
    
    
18. ENJOY protection. Watch the beads of water fly off the car for the entire season.

Completed my first week with 28 rides and I'm surprised how nice everyone has been so far! I creeped on this sub for a few weeks now for tips/tricks and it has really helped. PAX also really like the interior lights of my car. Some materials I want to share:


Waterless Car Wash - I work in the city and didn't know there was such a thing. I can wash my car in my parking spot or on the street with a little bucket of water.


LED Interior Lights - This is a little flashy, but it was only $10 and I hard wired it into my interior dash so there are 0 wires and I'm not using up my outlet for power. Plus PAX can see if they dropped anything and we're not driving completely in the dark. I can control the brightness and usually have it very dim for some atmospheric lighting


Vaccum - This thing works great and has a very long cord to reach through my entire Jeep. It's not for heavy duty jobs, but vacuuming once a week should do the trick


Phone Holder - The Jeep has circular air ducts so this is a great alternative - if you do not use your CD player. This does cover your CD port and has worked great so far. Since it's in my center dash, PAX can see where I'm going.


Battery Powered Uber Sign - Again, flashy but it draws attention and since it's battery powered I do not have to worry about cords running through my car or dash. I found mine on Ebay.


Water - I have a small compartment to keep ice-packs and small water bottles. With every PAX I pickup I offer a bottle of water. 9/10 say no thanks but everyone is very thankful for the offer.

Hello,

I've read the wiki and its a huge resource. Thank you to all who put it together!

Some of the product reccommedations are unavailble on Amazon so I just wanted to ask a few questions with regards a brand new car I bought and see if these products are whats needed:

So firstly, washing the exterior of the car:

I have Meguiars Gold class wash, I have two buckets, and grit guards, I will do the two buckets method. Now do I dry the car with:

this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01ERU0F3A/ref=ox_sc_act_title_5?smid=A1RKELVBY446LD&psc=1 or

this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GXRFLY4/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?smid=A1RKELVBY446LD&psc=1

Once I have washed the outside and dried it with the towels, I then apply the wax, I will be using #845 - can I use these to apply it:

https://www.amazon.com/Viking-Car-Care-Microfiber-Applicator/dp/B0051MYL8E/ref=pd_bxgy_263_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B0051MYL8E&pd_rd_r=BG4S92NE1D9CH9E2J67C&pd_rd_w=HVEIG&pd_rd_wg=6EheM&psc=1&refRID=BG4S92NE1D9CH9E2J67C

I know I needs to get a clay bar or a micro sponge I'm just not sure where/how this fits into the process, what items do I need to buy

These?

https://www.amazon.com/Mothers-07240-California-Gold-System/dp/B0002U2V1Y/ref=pd_bxgy_263_3?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B0002U2V1Y&pd_rd_r=BG4S92NE1D9CH9E2J67C&pd_rd_w=HVEIG&pd_rd_wg=6EheM&psc=1&refRID=BG4S92NE1D9CH9E2J67C

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CUAWJ6G/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

Lastly, I am buying this window cleaner -

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0006SH4KU/ref=ox_sc_act_title_8?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

Is it safe to use inside and out? I would imagine spray directly on outside windows and just use some microfiber towels like this - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00WC5KQGE/ref=ox_sc_act_title_4?smid=A1RKELVBY446LD&psc=1 to clean it off? On the inside I would imagine spraying directly onto the cloth would be better.

Do I clean the outside windows after the car has been cleaned and waxed?

I understand the basic process and with this being a new car I want to be 100% I'm doing the right thing, I fully intend on washing it every other week and taking great care of it!

Thanks

Tim

I apologize in advance for this long post. None of these are "must gets", but they are what I got for my 2016 Premium forester. I'm posting this for my own future reference as well as to help some people who are wondering what accessories might be good for their new forester. I highly recommend ordering from Jackie from Annapolis Subaru @ 443-837-1422 as she can get you some good prices on the subaru accessories as well as WeatherTech products! I saved on WeatherTech shipping costs (~$20) by ordering through Jackie and the warranty is the same as if I had bought them through their website.

Please note that some of these accessory links are for my specific car year, model and configuration. I have a 2016 Premium forester without eyesight (affects the Covercraft/heatshield sunshade - they also have eyesight compatible sunshades!).

Also, I personally didn't get my windows tinted, but I think that is something that you should seriously consider doing :)

Speaker kit

Tweeter kit


WeatherTech DigitalFit floorliner (1st & 2nd row)


WeatherTech cargo/trunk liner (without bumper protector)

Weather Tech TechCare floorliner and floormat Cleaner/Protector Kit

Gorilla mud flaps

Covercraft's UVS100 sunscreen - use promo code FREESHIP

Exterior Auto Dimming Mirror w/ Approach Lighting

Luggage Compartment Cover (manual rear gate)

Rear bumper cover

Auto-Dimming Mirror with Compass and HomeLink

Rear Seat Back Protector

Two Home Depot 5 gallon homer bucket

Heatshield sunshade (driver/passenger, second row, rear windshield, sunroof) - note that their website only shows only one side window (driver/passenger), you need to call in to ask them to add the second row side window ones - on my invoice it says part #1425S-A and #1425S-B

Antigravity Batteries AG-XP-10 Multi-Function Power Supply and Jump Starter (check eBay to see if priced cheaper)

Viair 77P Portable Compressor Kit (check eBay to see if priced cheaper)

Amazon stuff:

EZ Pass Holder for VA Flex

Aux cable

Stickershield (parking stickers, etc)

Dropstop seat gap filler (driver/passenger side)

Door panel removal kit (for speaker kit install)

Two grit guards

Microfiber Drying towel

Microfiber cloths (3 pack)

Car wash shampoo

Wheel brush

Resqme (window breaker/seatbelt cutter)

Wheel cleaner

Microfiber wash mitt

Reindeer costume for Christmas

Headrest coat hanger

Road reflective triangles

Duct tape

Odor eliminator

Tire air pressure gauge

OBDII Scanner (Bluetooth)

First aid kit

Hey all,

So I just bought a new to me 2016 f150 with blue jeans color paint. Since this car was more expensive than anything I've ever bought besides my house I want to take care of it as best as I can. For context I live in MI and during the winter will have a garage (that isn't heated) and will have space to clean the car, but no access to a hose or whatever for hosing down the car in the winter.

As far as I can see there is one paint chip on the hood and a few very small scratches by the door handle (they aren't very deep at all). There is some swirls on the window pillars, but there doesn't appear to be any swirling in the paint itself.

I'm having a hard time figuring out how to keep it clean and looking good outside of taking it to a mechanical car wash and then touching it up with some chemical guys vintage quick detailer to prevent water spots.

I don't know if I should do the whole wash, clay bar, and then wax, or if I can just wash and then use a waterless wash/wax combo.

I don't want to do any polishing/cutting work if I don't have to to get the car up to snuff as I don't really trust myself with that.

Basically my idea was to use a regular car wash on the car, and then use something like this: Aero Cosmetics Waterless Car Wash/Wax. to protect it.

Is that not right? Should I wash, claybar and then apply a dedicated wax? I've never waxed a car and am a bit worried about doing it wrong.

Any advice on keeping this as simple and budget friendly as possible? I have a lot of microfiber cloths (Kirkland) as well as window waffle cloths. Just wondering about what else to do and what else to buy.

Thanks for the help and sorry for asking something so simple, this stuff is just so confusing to me!

lol why would you use a toothbrush unless you're a masochist!?

You can buy brushes that are like $6-$11 each, with varying bristle stiffness, and they last years.

I bought 3 Mothers brushes like 3 years ago and I'm still using them.

wheel contour brush. Hard bristles, great for tires and rim face.

long handle brush. Medium bristles, great for wheel wells and your wheel's barrel.

Wheel brush. a bonus brush if your feeling a bit extra. Has really soft bristles. Really gets a great lather going on your wheels.

/r/Autodetailing

Great resource,

EZ Detail Brush Big https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002LOP5IA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_.McQzb8ANQSFG

A couple of friends recommended this.

I cant comment on it since I use microfibers but my wheels are really easy to clean.

I can imagine for wheels like the stock ones a brush like the one linked would be very good

1. What I advise you to do the following:
   
   1. Get PPF (Paint Protection Film) full front (if you can afford it)
      
   2. After the PPF, get a ceramic coating done. there’s a lot of debate of it’s actually needed or effective but I’ve seen many many cases where either side can be “correct” in the sense you can’t go wrong diy vs. getting it done professionally. There are plenty of people here who have done it themselves but please refer to r/Autodetailing if you’re interested. I choose to get mine done professionally and I don’t regret it one bit. Helps to maintain the car very easy. Here’s a pic after getting ppf and coating done: https://i.imgur.com/v3Lpn9g.jpg
      
2. I use two bucket method (LOT of tutorials on google and youtube) Here’s a list of every single thing related I purchased for doing my own car wash:
   
   1. ONR Solution
      
   2. Chemical Guys MIC_507_06 Professional Grade Premium Microfiber Towel, Gold (16 in. x 24 in.) (Pack of 6)
      
   3. 2 of Meguiar’s X2000 Water Magnet Microfiber Drying Towel, 1 Pack
      
   4. Relentless Drive Ultimate Car Wash Mitt - 2 Pack Extra Large Size - Premium Chenille Microfiber Wash Mitt - Wash Glove - Lint Free - Scratch Free
      
   5. Chemical Guys MIC_7071 Glass and Window Waffle Weave Towel, Red (24 in. x 16 in.)
      
   6. Grit Guard (2x)
      
   7. Solo 418 One-Hand Pressure Sprayer, 1-Liter, Ergonomic Grip for Gardening, Fertilizing, Cleaning & General Use Spraying
      
   8. Windshield Window Cleaner Tool, Unbreakable Extendable Long-Reach Handle, Unique Pivoting Triangular Head, 3 Washable Reusable Microfiber Bonnets, Car & Home Inside Interior Exterior Use - Lint Free
      
   9. Buy 2 5 gallons buckets at Home Depot/Lowe’s
      
3. Tesla should do it for free but some people do end up paying $25-60 but usually free. Hope this helps!

Touchless car washes don't do shit to clean your car. I spent about $8 on that useless machine, and there was still a layer of dirt on my front/rear bumper, side skirts, and grill. Best thing to do if you're on a budget is buy one of these [microfiber wash mitt] (http://www.amazon.com/Chemical-Guys-Chenille-Microfiber-Scratch-Free/dp/B003TTL0TE/ref=lp_3020674011_1_2?srs=3020674011&ie=UTF8&qid=1454030316&sr=8-2) and the next time you head over to one of those self service car washes just pre-soak the car and the mit and scrub one panel at a time and rinse off the mitt with the pressure hose.

Edit : If you're not on a budget i would recommend doing the 2 bucket car wash method once a week or so. After about 4-6 months i would clay bar the vehicle and use ONR as a lubricant. There are many sealants out there, but only a few can last nearly 6 months. Chemical guys has some great sealants and waxes, but they have so many that it confuses the shit out of people. Save yourself the hassle and get some Jet Seal, some microfiber applicators and some microfiber towels and you're set.

Edit 2: Here is a list of tested waxes and sealants i found on the interwebs a few weeks back http://www.detailingworld.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=85205

These have been shown to have lasted more than 4 months

"Autoglym Extra Gloss Protection
Chemical Guys: M-Seal, Jetseal 109, Speed Amor
Klasse AIO and Sealant Glaze
Hi Temp Paste
Zaino AIO, Z2 and Z5
Wolfgang Deep Gloss Sealant."

I've got two of the $20 ones, and they work great. They both work the same. And I would make sure you get a pressure washer with a 1/4 quick connect. It seems like everything is going to that and pretty much every accessory is using it as well. I had an electric pressure washer and compared to my gas one it was apples and oranges. As in what my electric couldn't touch my gas cleans very well. So if you want to do more then just use the foam cannon, get a gas washer. I bought a Ryobi 2800GPM one from Home depot, and one thing I love about it is I can change the power right from the wand. I can use it full power or gentle power which I use on occasion on thing like my wheels and engine just by twisting the wand.
I have this one

And I have this one

You can't clear up a solid 2-4 hours to clean your car?

Honestly, some good car soap/shampoo, a bucket/grit gaurd, some good wax, and few cans of engine degreaser should be all you need to look pretty good.

I'd recommend this, this, and these to get started.

After you get the engine clean, and the outside cleaned and waxed, just vacuum out the inside and clean up any dust, grit, or dirt you might see. This should all take about 4 hours if you take your time.

I hang out at /r/AutoDetailing a lot also - been keeping cars clean for 50+ years. Here's the destilled version before you wade through what others do. Buy some good car wash soap, I use Meguiar's, it's red in color. I've tried their up-scale one that's yellow, I don't like the film it seems to leave on the car. Buy a good microfiber mitt for the paint, (like this: https://www.amazon.com/Ultimate-Car-Wash-Mitt-Microfiber/dp/B011B25IXY/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1487081035&sr=8-3&keywords=microfiber+wash+mitt) and a good large sponge for the tires/wheels. Use the two-bucket method, have two buckets full of soap. When you wash a section, mitt goes first in one bucket, swish it around a bit, then put it in the other bucket to get fresh soap for the next wash section. Leave the wheels for last and DON'T use the mitt, use the sponge for them. Wash the wheels/tires a couple of times, you might need one of these to help (like this: https://www.amazon.com/Viking-862600-Black-Premium-Metal/dp/B0051MYLS4/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1487081149&sr=8-2&keywords=microfiber+wheel+brush). When done washing use a waffle weave for drying (like this: https://www.amazon.com/Microfiber-Absorbent-Detailing-Professional-Flawless/dp/B00MA94SOS/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1487081214&sr=8-4&keywords=waffle+towel+car). They are amazing at getting the water up and leaving your car streak free. When drying, start with the windows first.

My parents' neighbor has been watching as I borrow Mom and Dad's hose and he recently asked if I could take on his car and I was happy to oblige! Overall, the exterior was in okay shape - couple bugs, a few spots of tree sap and bird poo, as well as just a good amount of dirt and mud tucked in some spaces. I gave the car a two bucket wash, clay, Iron X treatment, Iron X, clay and topped it off with a sealant. Thanks for pointing out that I listed my procedure out of order, /u/Deadfable! Here's the deets:

Products Used:

• Meguiar's Gold Class Shampoo
  
• Optimum No Rinse (Quick Detailer dilution for claying)
  
• CarPro's Iron X for decontamination
  
• Nanoskin AutoScrub Fine Grade Sponge
  
• Meguiar's D101 (4:1 on tires, wheel wells - 10:1 on the interior)
  
• Aerospace 303 Protectant for interior dressing
  
• Meguiar's Ultimate Liquid Wax
  
• Harbor Freight DA Polisher w/ Buff & Shine 5.5" red pad
  
• Wheel Woolies
  
• Solo Horton Brushes
  
• Other assorted brushes
  
• Microfiber towels from The Rag Company
  

• 0000 Steel Wool from Home Depot (used with QD for the exhaust tips)
  

• Optimum Opti-Bond Tire Gel applied via foam block
  
• Stoner's Invisible Glass
  
  Overall a fun job! Got rewarded with a hearty lunch of sausage and peppers on Italian bread. Happy detailer!!

Ok so there are three 2015 and newer cars in my family and we all make sure they are always looking their best

1)I, the one who is investing and discovering the joy on detailing cars, would like to ask if there are any products i can buy in concentrates that will last me a life time such as Quick Detailers, Interior cleaner, tire, spray quick wax and wheel cleaners ETC? I see so many products in the wiki its kind of over whelming. I currently only have to last me a while for my car (Megs OTC recommended kit)

2) My Car, 2016 Mazda 3 5-door SGT, has a crap load of leather and soft interior. I kinda bit off more than i can chew in terms of maintenance. Is there and interior cleaner i can use for everything (currently have Megs Quik Interior Detailer) including the leather?

3) Are these any good? [These applicators from TCG] (https://www.amazon.com/Chemical-Guys-MIC_292_08-Microfiber-Applicators/dp/B00BTGSGFK/ref=pd_cart_pd_ecc_rvi_cart_2_2?ie=UTF8&refRID=19GM4RBQY3NSV7336751&th=1) seem to be on sale. should i stock up?

Most of the clay out there is very similar, but there are different grades of clay (read: aggressiveness). Nanoskin is great for the "average Joe" who has a reasonably clean car but needs to decontaminate it, and clay is great for a 100% decontamination job like a very dirty or neglected car.

If you're new to claying... I'd suggest getting this kit, or something similar. It has everything you need as a beginner. I used these all the time when I first started detailing. I finally needed more so I bought in bulk and gallons of lube at a time.

The second thing I'd recommend is getting a small, fine nanoskin sponge. You can try it without dropping $45 for a mitt or pad and see if you like it and the results you get when working with it.

I have also had good luck with these wheel brushes from EZ Detail Brush https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007UTN60K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_ReP4CbF18XQK5

Some others have linked similar brushes, but wanted to shared these as well. Get both sizes.

Lastly, product wise, can't go wrong with Ammo NYC. If anyone hasn't heard of them, highly recommended.

Get a Megs105 or Ultimate Polish (since its a beater I expect the paint is in need of compounding) $10

If you don't want to compound maybe a wax cleaner, its milder, cheaper and you could probably 1-step your car with it but don't put your expectations high because it only removes mild oxidation and some swirls. $7

If you need a backing plate, go get a 5 inch one $10, you need it

Get an CCS Orange Pad from lake (8-10)

Meguires Gold Class Wax on Target/walmart/amazon $10

I almost forgot but you need to clay before you start the magic and the cheapest one and most awarding one I know is this that's like $11.

Invest a few more dollars and if you want your money back you could always clean your friends car for a few bucks.

For squeeze bottles I love Meguiar's Bottles.

For spraying I'm partial to Chemicalguys Sprayers although, you could probably find them for cheaper. They're Tolco sprayers on some bottle. They work well, but I need to get some Foaming sprayers soon for wheel cleaners and things of that nature.

Whenever I start getting through my gallon of ONR i'm probably going to buy a 16oz bottle of ONR, pour it into my gallon container, and then use the bottle with one of my CG/Tolco sprayers so it is nicely labeled. That's what I've done with my Adam's stuff. I buy a 16oz bottle for testing and then a gallon and just keep filling the 16oz so it stays nice and labeled. I think I've heard that you can talk to Adam's Customer Support about these bottles and get them to send you bottles with stickers of their actual products.

Awesome job man and beautiful Rex! I picked up a 14 about 2 weeks ago. I was wondering, how do you apply the Blacklight and the detailer? I see these on Amazon, would they be good? I'm new to detailing. Just wanted a quick tip :)

http://www.amazon.com/Chemical-Guys-Premium-Microfiber-Applicators/dp/B00BTGSGFK/ref=pd_sim_auto_2?ie=UTF8&refRID=18KSY6J0SCEKA3C6W8RK

I got both from amazon. They work so well.

Chemical Guys CARPET BRUSH W/DRILL ATTACHMENT - MEDIUM DUTY - YELLOW https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B003TU662Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_k3zKwCmEwanvm

ULTIMATE GROUT CLEANER: Best Grout Cleaner for Tile and Grout Cleaning, Acid-Free Safe Deep Cleaner & Stain Remover for Even the Dirtiest Grout, Best https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B000Y232BI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_EIDdNrQ4jYuhS

Really cool what you're doing! Although I did notice that you spend a ton of money on spray bottles...next time you can get quality bottles much cheaper. For example: https://www.amazon.com/Chemical-Guys-ACC_121-16HD-3PK-Resistant-Sprayer/dp/B00ABYVT64

In the past, I've been able to find great deals on eBay for the Tolco chemical resistant spray bottles, at around $3.16/24oz bottle.

Everything else looks pretty good. Keep up the good work.

I'm looking into buying a power washer for general use around the house, and for washing my car.

I think my sweet spot is going to be one of these SunJoe's, but I've read they like to use proprietary connectors. I was hoping on using a foam cannon like this MATCC, but it sounds like it won't be that simple.

Have you had any issues with the one you got? Any recommendations on accessories?

Here you go. It works pretty awesome and it makes your car look all shiny. 😀😊

I'm fairly new, myself. I've driven clunkers most of my life. Spent about five years downtown where I didn't have a car. Now I'm back in suburbia, so I've got a brand new GTI, and it's the first one I've ever cared to take good care of. Here's what I started with:

• Meguiar's D101 APC - the D103 APC+ has apparently been discontinued.
  
• Two Chemical Guys detailing bucket kits, which each have a bucket, lid, grit guard, 16oz citrus wash, and some washing pad thing I didn't really want.
  
• Two-pack of Rag Company Dry Me a River towels
  
• Five-pack of Rag Company detailing towels
  
• Bottle of Stoner Invisible Glass
  
• Two-pack of Griot's Garage microfiber wash mitts
  
• A Nanoskin wash mitt
  
• 32oz Optimum No Rinse Wash and Wax - for use as a quick detailer and easy maintenance washing.
  
• Lexol leather care kit
  
• Thee-pack of spray bottles
  
• A microfiber window towel
  
• A cheap electric blower
  
• 16oz Chemical Guys Jetseal
  
• Microfiber applicators
  
  I should have picked up some of Chemical Guys' citrus wash and clear, too, to help deal with a winter's worth of grime left by terrible touchless car washes. I've also got a tire brush, hand vacuum, and some assorted cheap microfiber towels around already.
  
  Your kit looks a lot more cost-effective, though. Throw in some cheap buckets, grit guards, wash mitts, and drying towel, and an extra stack of cheap microfibers and you're still under $100 for practically everything you would need for a proper two-bucket wash and wax.

I would recommend your own wheel brush The brush there at the bay will produce swirls, however I would be more concerned about possible scratches due to large debris that could be caught in the brush. When you bring your own you know exactly how clean it is.

What kind of car do you have? Does it produce a lot of brake dust? Is there a lot of black dust that collects on your wheels? If you don't have a high performance car, Sonax might be overkill. I had a 2011 Camaro V6 and it produced literally no brake dust, so I got away with just car shampoo for my wheels. I traded that car for my current 2016 Camaro SS and the Brembo brakes produced a ton of brake dust that required a dedicated cleaner to really lift that stuff off the wheels. I swapped out the brake pads for ceramic carbon pads and now I'm back to using shampoo. It's waaaaay cheaper, smells a lot better, and my wheels stay cleaner. If you don't have brakes that produce a ton of brake dust, I would skip the wheel cleaner. Iron is the main culprit with brake dust and why you want to use something like Sonax.

Biggest difference between the SPX3000 and SPX4000 is the form factor. The SPX4000 has a sort of frame around it, making it more stable than the SPX3000. Other minor differences include two detergent tanks (on the SPX3000) versus one and the SPX4000 has two different pressure settings (1450 PSI and 2030 PSI). I personally don't really need the detergent tank and rarely use the lower pressure setting, but I suppose it is nice to have when needed. Other than those three minor differences, the units are identical (motor, fittings, etc all the same). I'd personally recommend the SPX4000 just for the more stable base.

I use this foam cannon with my SPX4000 and have no complaints. This foam cannon also gets great reviews and is slightly cheaper.

I'd also highly recommend getting the hose extension. You don't need any extra fittings to connect it and it gives you 25 more feet to work with.

I configured 2 months ago and edit button is still
there. Probably because I ordered AWD (non performance) with white seats. It also depends on your reservation number, if you were a previous owner and your location. Some people order long range models are getting them way faster than expected due to so many folks opting for AWD variants since they became available in late July (pent up demand).

As for car washes, everything I’ve read in the forum says only if it’s a laser no touch car wash. Most people recommend hand washing with two bucket method or something like this product below. The issue with traditional car wash machines is it leaves micro abrasions in the paint. Some people care, others don’t. Also, many folks are also paying a premium for paint protection film and/or ceramic coating. I’m planning to use the wash mentioned below and likely get paint protection film only on the front half of the car body.

Aero Cosmetics Wet or Waterless Car Wash Wax Kit 144 Ounces. Aircraft Quality for Your Car, RV, Boat, Motorcycle. The Best Wash Wax. Anywhere, Anytime, Home, Office, School, Garage, Parking Lots. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00X04JRMU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_SJvLBbV9TYKZ0

Only hand wash, all the time, lovingly, with microfiber everything. It's going to be your new hobby, and on a car this size, takes less time than you would think to do it right.

Here is my amazon list, a lot of stuff has subscribe and save deals, everything Chemical Guys has been top notch.

http://www.amazon.com/Chemical-Guys-MIC_493-Microfiber-Scratch-Free/dp/B003TTL0TE/ref=sr_1_10?ie=UTF8&qid=1465225930&sr=8-10&keywords=chemical+guys

http://www.amazon.com/303-30520-Convertible-Fabric-Cleaning/dp/B000A8JNF0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1465226066&sr=8-1&keywords=303+aerospace+protectant+convertible

http://www.amazon.com/Chemical-Guys-MIC_506_12-Professional-Microfiber/dp/B00A8MZ7IA/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1465225930&sr=8-3&keywords=chemical+guys

http://www.amazon.com/Chemical-Guys-CWS_301-Citrus-Concentrated/dp/B004K9KETY/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1465225930&sr=8-6&keywords=chemical+guys

http://www.amazon.com/Collinite-Liquid-Insulator-Wax-845/dp/B000JK2D06/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1465225985&sr=8-1&keywords=collinite+insulator+wax OR http://www.amazon.com/Collinite-No-Super-Doublecoat-Auto/dp/B000AP8DZY/ref=pd_sbs_263_5?ie=UTF8&dpID=51Nde%2B7iakL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=0KRY8VA4QS2RZE3XG1R5

http://www.amazon.com/Viking-862400-Blue-Microfiber-Applicator/dp/B0051MYL8E/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1465226014&sr=8-2&keywords=microfiber+applicator

http://www.amazon.com/Chemical-Guys-TVD_109_16-Sprayable-Dressing/dp/B001TI1F5Q/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1465226032&sr=8-3&keywords=chemical+guys+tire+shine

http://www.amazon.com/Mothers-155700-Wheel-Brush/dp/B001GJ3DZS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1465226178&sr=8-1&keywords=tire+brush

Honestly, I just use this stuff, Aero Cosmetics Wash Wax All

Spray on, wipe with damp microfiber, wipe with dry microfiber. Takes me 4 cloths to clean my whole car. Granted, I live in Las Vegas and rarely get anything than dust on my vehicle. It’s really easy and looks great, every time.

I just bought a ryobi 2000psi 1.2 gpm machine and a $20 MATTC foam gun and it worked extremely well, just like the chemical guys videos, tons of fun. The pressure washer also cleaned my deck and driveway surprisingly well. I'm super pleased with it. If you're ordering online the sun joe spx3000 is more powerful for the same price, at 2030 psi and 1.75 gpm, but being able to go a mile from my house to return my unit if anything came up was a big point to me too.

Foam Gun

I used chemical guys citrus wash and gloss (it's worth it to get a gallon) with three pumps (3oz) and the foam cannon turned full open to max foam. It made a really thick shaving cream like lather.

For pure ease of use, I'd recommend this. It's a clay alternative that is very easy to use.

Nanoskin (AS-018) AutoScrub Medium Grade Sponge https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CUAWEUM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_5TRPCbY0T67MR

Make sure to use a lot of lube (I prefer Optimum No Rinse for just about everything. Car wash, instant detailer, ultra diluted for interior cleaning and glass, less diluted as clay lube).

Also, make sure your panels are cool, which you should be doing for any wash if you can help it.

All you need is 2 buckets and a good wash mitt/drying mf towel and good soap.

• You can get the 2 buckets from home depot.
  
  
• The wash mitt from Amazon with quick delivery (Prime if you have it).
  
  
• The soap from Autozone - Meguiar's Gold Class is good enough.
  
  
• A drying towel from Amazon with quick delivery (Prime if you have it).
  
  Use the power washer and hose at the self wash. Done.
  
  I recommend upgrading to a better wash mitt and drying MF over time.

By soaking, I meant spraying it on and letting it set for a few minutes.


Since you're limited on space, if you have a drill you could get an attachment like this http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003TU662Y/ref=oh_details_o00_s01_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


I bought that one for the shower tile but it works great on tough fabric too. Magic erasers are awesome, but with the speed this thing can scrub fabric, it can get caked on stains that ME often can't.

Removing Brake Dust from Alloy Rims

This past weekend I washed my car and inspected it in order to prep it for my first detail. During my wash/inspection I noticed the front wheel wells have some discoloration which I attributed to brake dust. I attempted to clean them with a brush and Meguiar's Hot Rims Aluminum Wheel Cleaner which didn't fully remove all the brake dust due to not being able to scrub the wheel wells properly. I purchased this Mother's Brush in the hopes that this weekend I'll be able to remove them.

Question: What material are these "alloy" rims made of and what cleaner should I use for it?

Example 1 Example 2

Also, I dressed my tires with Meguiar's Hot Shine High Gloss Tire Spray and was curious as to what the community thinks of this spray.

Thanks

Awesome! You definitely helped. One final question if it's ok. Will the following steps (in order) be good for a first time wash/detail?

1. Wash the car with this soap.
   
   
2. Scrub with these
   
   
3. Dry off with this
   
   
4. Decontaminate with [this]
   (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CUAWJ6G/ref=ox_sc_act_title_6?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER), while using this as the lube for it?

Awesome! Thank you for the help.

For the Carpro Perl. Am i suppose to dilute it? Also for appying it do you recommend oine of these to apply it 1 2 3

I'm thinking #1 for applying the wax and #2 for the plastic trim.

The reviews on this are all over the map, but I love it. Once you spray it on it sticks to the rim and eats away at the chain lube, mud, and other road grossness that accumulates on your wheels. Get a nice solid brush to help reach into the crevices and enjoy your showroom wheels.

Thanks. Sounds like it's not going to damage the car, so it's definitely worth trying. FYI, both ONR and Aero do, in fact, claim to be wax. So it's good to know that they, in fact, are not.

I too have a love hate relationship with black cars. I used to own a 1995 Mercedes S420 in black. They used a different kind of paint back then that I swear is so much deeper/clearer than anything you can get today. It was beautiful for all of 20 minutes. What helped me keep it clean for longer between washes is using a California Car Duster pretty much every day/every other day. It helps that it never rained though, so judging from the amount of trees in your picture, it must rain fairly regularly where you are.

id drop the creme glaze and get a wax instead (if budget is a problem?). meguiars gold class wax is a cheap but very effective wax.

youll need about 3 cutting pads, 3 polishing pads, and 2 wax/sealant pads.

32 oz of compound and polish is a lot. if budget is a problem, you can do a lot of cars with the 8 oz bottles.

you might want to consider getting just the nanoskin sponge instead of the mitt and a regular microfiber wash mitt. it will be cheaper and you dont need to clay every wash.

ONR is good, but since you can use soapy water as a lube with the nanoskin, you might want to just get a good quick detailer instead. it helps with drying the car too.

Sure

This is the one I currently use: Chemical Guys MIC_493 Chenille Microfiber Premium Scratch-Free Wash Mitt https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003TTL0TE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_0tgFxb1M1HBR5
Literally the only CG product I own. I like that it's green so I can see the dirt. However here is one that is highly rated, but is blue, but if you don't mind that these ones seem good too, especially if you have a large vehicle. Plus you can dedicate one to the upper and lower half or however

Ultimate Car Wash Mitt - 2 pack Extra Large Size - Premium Chenille Microfiber Wash Mitt - Wash Glove - Lint Free - Scratch Free https://www.amazon.com/dp/B011B25IXY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_0vgFxbQ8H8HA9

Good brushes. Try both of these. First one to get inside, 2nd to get the surface.

EZ Detail Brush Big https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002LOP5IA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_vYM1Bb887H6Z3

EZ Detail Go EZ Detail Brush https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00VK9HWWY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_JZM1BbKPE8ZJT

I just do the Aero Wash Wax All once a week and sometimes spot clean when kids get their prints on the doors.

With my silver cars I barely ever did anything but I also cared a lot less. The black is a total finger print magnet. There aren’t any touchless washes close enough to me that I’d go to all the time. For now the 15 mins per week wash seems to work ok :)

I agree with everyone that it's rail dust, or just iron particulates that get embedded in to your clear coat. initial removal will take care of most of it, but know that with a white vehicle, it'll show up occasionally, even with waxing.

Instead of plain clay bar, I'd recommend getting a nano-skin. works like clay bar, but much easier to use (you can drop it and simply rinse it off). I just use any quick detail spray as a lube.

nanoskin

I love Larry's videos from AMMO NYC & DRIVE Clean and have always followed his recommendations for detailing/washing.

• 2 Home Depot buckets with grit guards, microfiber cloths & wash mitt, waffle drying cloth
  
• soap -> [Optimum No Rinse Wash & Shine](https://www.amazon.com/Optimum-NR2010Q-Rinse-Wash-Shine/dp/B00D8DR0AO/ref=pd_sim_263_2? (you can u_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00D8DR0AO&pd_rd_r=FM515CNNWHKECR3HGYQ8&pd_rd_w=L1qpT&pd_rd_wg=YSRMs&psc=1&refRID=FM515CNNWHKECR3HGYQ8) (I dilute this and use it as the "clay" lubricant as well)
  
• "clay" -> Nanoskin Autoscrub (works well enough, more cost effective than real clay)
  
• seal -> Chemical Guys Jet Seal
  
• wax -> Meguiar's
  
  
  

Gotcha, had a feeling I had to get a better attachment. Would this this suffice as a more budget friendly attachment?

Sure! The two bucket method helps reduce the chance of putting swirls into your paint.

The most common configuration is 2 - 5 gallon buckets with grit guards in the bottom of both of them.

You would use 1 bucket with just plain water for rinsing your wash mitt and the 2nd bucket would be water with soap. You will start by dunking your mitt into the soap bucket, wash a panel on your car, dunk your mitt into the rinse bucket, scrub your mitt against the grit guard, squeeze out any water, and then move back to your soap bucket. Repeat until the car is squeaky clean and swirl-less :)

I use Various Combinations of the following for my Dirt and Street bikes.

• Pressure Washer
  
• Simple Green Bike Cleaner/Degreaser
  
• Mr. Pink Super Suds
  
• Aluminum Grunge Brush
  
• Short Handle Body Brush
  
• Large Wheel Brush
  
• Upholstery Detailing Brush (works great on Sidewalls)
  
• Maxima Chain Care kit

Suggested soap for fender / wheel well?

I have Superclean diluted 1:3 for my tires but I read that it's pretty harsh and might turn black plastic white. I need a somewhat aggressive but mild soap dedicated just for my wheel wells. The soap will be used in conjunction with a Mothers Fender Well Brush

I use ONR for my paint fwiw so this soap will just be for the wells.

Go to Amazon and order this (I like Meg's products),

• Harbor Freight DA
  
  
• Meg's Endurance Tire Gel
  
  
• Meg's Ultimate Protectant
  
  
• Meg's Ultimate Liquid Wax
  
  
• Meg's APC
  
  
• Rag Company's Borderless Blonde
  
  
• Rag Company's Waffle Weave
  
  
• Hex Logic White Pad (3)
  
  
• Hex Logic Orange Pad (2)
  
  
• Hex Logic Red Pad (2)
  
  
• M105
  
  
• M205
  
  
• 3M Auto Tape
  
  
• Mother's Wheel Brush
  
  
• ABN Woolies
  
  
• Trim Brush
  
  
• Chem Guys Wash Mitt (2)
  
  
• Mother's Clay Bar Kit
  
  This should run you about $345 for everything and have you setup to take care of your car for a long time. You can find a 20% discount code online for harbor freight to bring the price down $55 for the DA. Go to home depot and buy a couple buckets and you will be good to go.
  
  Edit: To add, I went to Lowes and bought a cheap inline sprayer for my hose and it works fine for foaming up the vehicle, plus it only costs $5.
  
  Edit2: If you are going to downvote me please post why you don't like my recommendation.

The next step up is to try a microfiber bug sponge, it's a little more scraping power but still pretty gentle.

I got one of these and it's not bad: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001GJ7HCI

I agree with both of these comments. Black looks really good with the new body style... feels like my daily driver is the Batmobile. Keeping it shiny is a never ending battle, though.

I've found that this car duster helps to keep it looking at least presentable between weekly washes. Definitely not looking forward to all the salt and sand and misc grime that comes with winter.

The brembo wheels are painted just like the car and can get scratched just like car paint. I use this on mine. Works great.

http://www.amazon.com/EZ-Detail-1001-SA-Brush/dp/B002LOP5IA/ref=pd_sbs_auto_3?ie=UTF8&refRID=1NHC4K3WRGD9TC2S3XF8

Also, don't be afraid of the cutting stuff. The mirror glaze and light cut products are not going to damage your paint. your clear coat is much thicker and more durable than people think when it comes to these buffers.

If you wanna keep it under $30 and want a very basic method of keeping your car clean then I would recommend the tried and true 2-Bucket Wash method.

1. 2 x 5-gallon buckets (Lowes or Home Depot) - $2/bucket
   
2. 2 x GritGuards - $17
   
3. 2 x MicroFiber Wash Mitts - $15
   
4. Meguiar's Golf Class Car Wash Shampoo - $10
   
   TOTAL: $45ish
   
   I know that $45 is over your budget of $30, but I highly recommend using the 2-bucket wash method. You can get away with using 1 grit guard and 1 wash mitt if you want to cut a little bit on cost. You could also buy a smaller size of car wash shampoo... this may get you closer to budget.
   
   The reason I buy 2 grit guards is to use 1 in each bucket. You can buy only 1 and use it in the rinse water bucket for when you rinse your mitt.
   
   You can also get away with having 1 wash mitt and look at different brands. I personally use 2 (one for upper half, one for lower half) to reduce contamination.
   
   ---
   
   If you want to expand later on to go beyond cleaning the car... then you can put some money into additional products. You will want to look into wheel brushes, all-purpose cleaner, glass cleaners, detail sprays, waxes, etc.
   
   Once you start, you cannot stop!

Are you using a sponge, brush, or something else? I’ve had best luck with an automotive wash mitt like this.

Soap

Interior Cleaner

Foam Cannon

Scratch Free Wash Mitt

I'm really enjoying what chemical guys has to offer in their cleaning line up. I'm going to pick up hydro charge from them soon. It's a spray on ceramic coating.

The chamois and quick detailer help to remove grime, oil spots or whatever they are. It's very apparent on a white car. but glad I can actually see it too remove it versus another color car.

​

cc: u/simply_lime

hmm. I bought a brush that was cheaper than the one listed in the wiki but it is definitely described as a detailing brush that wont dissolve. The bristles don't come out but simply lay down, like 90 degree angle lay down. I cant get good leverage to clean.

http://www.amazon.com/Automotive-Cleaning-Solvent-Resistant-Bristles/dp/B0013HJDOI?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00

There’s waterless car wash products you can use. I can’t do a hose wash at my place either, but I found this stuff and it works really well. My car gets super dirty and it does a good job, but it takes a bit longer than a traditional wash. There’s a bunch out there, but here’s the one I use: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00X04JRMU/

I used Wet or Waterless Car Wash Wax Kit (I did waterless) from Amazon and then CarGuys Hybrid Wax Sealant, also waterless.

I copied the links into this post, hopefully they work.

Wet or Waterless Car Wash Wax Kit 144 Ounces. Aircraft Quality for Your Car, RV, Boat, Motorcycle. The Best Wash Wax. Anywhere, Anytime, Home, Office, School, Garage, Parking Lots. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00X04JRMU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_GN0rDb4FJCA5N

CarGuys Hybrid Wax Sealant - Most Advanced Top Coat Polish and Sealer on the Market - Infused with Liquid Carnauba for a Deep Hydrophobic Shine on All Types of Surfaces - 18 Ounce Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06Y5KQSKF/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_ZO0rDbWMKN0YR

Hello!

So I've been lurking here for several weeks trying to soak up what I can. I've checked out the wiki page on starter kits and I guess I'm just wondering a couple things based on the list to get myself going.

Gonna get the buckets and the grit guards. I've got a ton of microfibers I use for my car already.

I was thinking of getting the Griot's DA polisher recommended (here)[https://www.amazon.com/Griots-Garage-10813STDCRD-Orbital-Polisher/dp/B009UKUUWE/ref=as_li_ss_tl?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1462198536&sr=1-1&keywords=griots+da+polisher&linkCode=ll1&linkId=3a68733089f6c8d0f136c31b5c3bb8d1]

I guess I'm wondering what chemicals I should be using on my vehicle?

I do live in an apartment complex though so I DO NOT have access to a hose because our landlord has got it under lock and key. I read a few days ago about a product that someone used outside and it was still ok (though I do have access to a garage!).

I guess I'm just more lost as to where to start besides the DA polisher.

edit: Oh! I've used a clay bar before and while it was nice, I was wondering about this nanoskin sponge that's also recommended.

https://www.amazon.com/Nanoskin-AS-019-AutoScrub-Grade-Sponge/dp/B00CUAWJ6G/ref=as_li_ss_tl?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1462198361&sr=1-1&keywords=nanoskin&linkCode=ll1&linkId=4c532041fcdbfa6b35f768083c70423e

Is that like a 1:1 sub for clay bars? Same thing just not wasted if dropped?

Yeah, the waterless stuff is great. Here’s what most people recommend: amazon link

[Nanoskin Mitt] (http://www.amazon.com/Nanoskin-AS-016-AutoScrub-Fine-Grade/dp/B00DOS0LH2/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1422296825&sr=8-3&keywords=nanoskin)

There is also a medium grade sponge that is smaller but works really well, as well as a combo pack that has medium and fine grade together.

Note that you shouldn't use this as a standard 'wash mitt' though. It is literally a substitute for a clay bar.

Nothing fancy at all.

1. Wal-Mart gas pressure washer
   
2. Foam cannon from Amazon https://www.amazon.ca/Fasmov-Pressure-Release-Adjustable-Blaster/dp/B01DKC6IY6/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?keywords=foam+cannon&qid=1555904617&s=gateway&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1
   
3. Meguiars NXT car soap. Costco was clearing out the 64oz size for $5/jug like 10 years ago. I bought 6 jugs and it's still lasted for me to this day. Still have 4 jugs of it unopened.
   
   I think I diluted the soap in the foam cannon too much so it's not as super foamy as something like a Torq foam cannon. But honestly, as long as it lubricates the car, I don't really care for the super sudsy foam. In the end, it's all gonna be washed away.

Get an eraser wheel off of amazon, I did it and it was super easy to remove the pinstriping.

http://www.amazon.com/AES-Industries-Smart-Eraser-Adaptor/dp/B00488DDB8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1419617431&sr=8-1&keywords=eraser+wheel

Pressure wash with This pressure washer
Foam cannon from Amazon [Foam cannon](http://www.MATCC.com/ Adjustable Foam Wash Gun 1L Bottle Car Wash Gun Snow Foam Lance With 1/4" Quick Connector https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CE78VO8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_VrJmzb8PWHAQH)
Then I used regular 2 bucket car wash with grit guard from Amazon, speed shine (2 towels), spray wax, vacuum, interior cleaner, leather conditioner, plastic conditioner, and spray window cleaner.

All the products I use are griots garage... Really good quality stuff.

[Speed shine](http://www.Griot.com/'s Garage 11146SP Speed Shine - 35 oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00J5CVMLU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_KuJmzbF11YMYS)
[Interior cleaning ](http://www.Griot.com/'s Garage 10956 Interior Cleaner - 22 oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00F4PB8IY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_lvJmzbYGA8QRT)
[Spray wax](http://www.Griot.com/'s Garage 10962 Spray-On Wax - 22 oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00F4PB8H0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_WvJmzb2DC8ZAZ)
[Wash soap](http://www.Griot.com/'s Garage 10866 Brilliant Finish Car Wash - 64 oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PA2LMVY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_IwJmzbPEEQTMQ)

Just keep going down the griot's line up... High quality all around. Cheers

It is an 05. Paint is in decent condition but a lot of contamination. It was sitting under a sap tree for 2 years. I spent about an hour claying the hood and it removed maybe 70% but there was a lot of stuff. I was using chemical guys clay.

Thank you..glad you said something :)

Like this

I believe clay bar qualities are different. Just like with most stuff, generally the higher the quality, the more expensive it is. The cheaper ones I've worked with have streaked heavily and more often. Depending on the vehicles condition, and how often you detail, a clay bar can last a long time. This CLAYBAR is pretty cheap & plenty of people like it. For a clay sponge it does the job.

Alright will do. I always thought it would be good to soak in the foam while I fill the buckets.

I use this foam canon and this pressure washer. I fill it 10:1 and use distilled water in the canister. It does have a knobs at the tops that control how the foam comes out and I have it set with the metal parts more spread open to give a thicker stream of liquid.

ARGH! HEY HEY, READ THIS!

GET THIS NOW!

ok, quick learning time. Subaru paint is terrible, very thin, and not durable. Bug blood is acidic and will eat the clear coat off and then go after the paint, i know first hand. Spray that shit on the bumper, let it sit, then use a bug sponge to clean it and wash it. There's a lot of wax in it and it'll clog up your sponge but it's either that or paint job. I did los angeles to denver, long way, and tried to see how dirty i could get it and I'm paying for that now. My car is no garage queen but the bumper can strike the eye with a dull thud now :( do this every other day, it's only a few minutes and you're protected. Something about the way you look in this photo instills me with confidence, take the time to wax the entire front end, that will protect even better so all you do is rinse and light wash and all buggies go bye bye.

Here are the videos i watched months ago, hooe they help.

1

2

Cannot find the other.

Holy shit these are the exact ones I was looking for at on another detailing website but couldn't find them on Amazon. Thank you! I agree that I don't think I need that many options, so I might just pick up two of these but I'm not crazy about the metal band over the plastic band for possible scratch situations.

Oh for some reason I mis-read your album and thought it said you HAD woolies. Just re-read it and saw that you don't. They are pretty pricey for what they are (I got mine as an xmas gift as I didn't want to spring for them either). Look into one of these. Cheaper than the woolies, works better on stubborn buildup, and is very durable. I use my speed brush 9 times out of 10 over my woolies. That's funny on the badge, I was afraid you were being serious with it, lol!

I used Optimum No Rinse during the winter time, because it allows for small parts of the car at a time, without requiring rinse.

But invest is a Waffle Weave Drying Towel, a couple bucket's from wal-mart (like $2.50 a bucket) and some Grit Guards for each bucket and your in business. You can use any soft wash mitt, and there are a lot of different brands and styles out there, and I also recommend a Detailer or Wax (I prefer quick detailer during winter-times so I can just spray and wipe and it keeps the snow and crap off for a good amount of time.)

I personally like Meguiar's Ultimate Quick Detailer. Just spray it on your clean spot, rub it in all over, then single wipe it off with the dry side of the terry cloth, and you get some bead action next time it rains!

I use this similar product as well: https://www.amazon.com/Waterless-Ounces-Aircraft-Motorcycle-Anywhere/dp/B00X04JRMU/ref=pd_cp_263_1?pd_rd_w=8Sjr4&pf_rd_p=ef4dc990-a9ca-4945-ae0b-f8d549198ed6&pf_rd_r=DNBK8RZ46BJESWMTEZ5J&pd_rd_r=e01d83bc-a4fa-470f-9045-0bb026fa8fda&pd_rd_wg=vqHoF&pd_rd_i=B00X04JRMU&psc=1&refRID=DNBK8RZ46BJESWMTEZ5J

It does a really nice job and smells nice while applying it.

Sure thing! $18 on Amazon. Here you go:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DKC6IY6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_MWRaBbN5EZXP7

And I used Meguiar’s Gold Class soap, $10 for a gallon at Advance Auto. And I picked up four (2 2-packs) of these in X-Large size (having 4 is nice because you clean one section of the car with one, then grab a brand new one for the next section of car, no rinsing required):

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B011B25IXY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_iYRaBb1CG00GR

And lastly, a 9-pack of these:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00S1U5TWA?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

Oh, and a wheel brush:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001GJ3DZS?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

If you have access to a drill, an eraser wheel is by far the easiest way. Just make sure the surrounding paint is clean to prevent scratches.
This is the one I have, I used it to remove body molding adhesive:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00488DDB8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I purchased a knock-off on Amazon (MATCC) and have been very happy with it. It's hooked up to a 3000 PSI gas powered pressure washer so I'm sure that helps, but I've gotten good results. The review with the pic of a Yukon on there is mine.

Here is the link: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01CE78VO8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Amazon has some too. Not sure how much shipping is but some are available on prime. I got this one which is softer for carpets but works great on bathroom soap scum.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003TU662Y/ref=pd_lpo_k2_dp_sr_1?pf_rd_p=1535523722&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B0051C02OG&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=0AQY6CXKQEQ29DK8MYKC

So my first ever detail is planned out like is this

1. Foam Cannon wash + rinse
   
2. ONR Rinseless wash + dry
   
3. ONR Lube + Nanoskin AutoScrub Fine Grade Sponge (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CUAWJ6G/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
   
4. Meguiars ScratchX 2.0 Polish and buff off with MF towel
   
5. Wax
   
   My understanding is polish basically scrapes a layer off in order to go deep, is there anything i need to "refill" that digging?
   
   Does my order of detailing sound good, in other words do i need to add anything else?

I used to use those microfiber circular applicator pads but didn't like them. No where to really grip it from and it just felt awkward using it. And then I found the microfiber blocks and they made the job MUCH easier. Bigger coverage as well as a place for your hands to hold. I'd recommend these over the circle pads any day.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BTGSGFK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Don't use just water.

You can pickup blue ONR https://www.amazon.com/Optimum-NR2010Q-Rinse-Wash-Shine/dp/B00D8DR0AO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1510851008&sr=8-1&keywords=optimum+no+rinse which you can use as clay lube, detailer, rinseless wash depending on the dilution with your distilled water.

Clay lube: ratio 1:64 or 2 oz/1 gallon



Those types of clay do the job and some people perfer it to traditional clay. I haven't heard of that brand, but i'm sure its the same stuff. I personally have little sponge from Nanoskin. https://www.amazon.com/Nanoskin-AS-019-AutoScrub-Grade-Sponge/dp/B00CUAWJ6G/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1510851254&sr=8-3&keywords=nanoskin
I like this better than that "towel" since this has a nice grip.

Well I've just started getting together my own kit and felt I HAD to get these:

1. Meguiar's Clay bars and quik detail spray
   
   
2. Butt-load of microfiber towels
   
   
3. Waffle-weave drying towel
   
   
4. Grit-guards
   
   
5. Iron X wheel cleaner
   
   
6. Industrial Spray bottles
   
   
7. Meguiar's Gold Class car wash soap
   
   
8. Meguiar's Gold Class Wax
   
   
9. Purple Power
   
   
10. Proper wash mitt
    
    I still feel like there are atleast ten other products that I NEED!
    
    -Pressure Washer
    
    -Foam Cannon
    
    -Detailing brushes
    
    -Sealants/Compounds combined with a proper rotor drill
    
    -ETC
    
    

This brush for wheelwells.

I had wheel woolies before which are great for in between the spokes and some of the wells, but in tight spaces this brush is able to compact and fit in so much better

I got this for the wheels
EZ Detail Brush Mini https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007UTN60K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_UamaJRl5kQ5Kd
In my opinion it's a good combo

There is a pretty good explanation video on this Amazon page: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00X04JRMU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_zyEWBbR304ERW

Thank you for all the feedback and tips! Is this what you were referencing to?

Also that is hilarious, how was cleaning my car compared to other cars?

Sure,

Here’s the best Leather soap

Best conditioner

And ceramic coating for the leather seat is no longer available on Amazon for some odd reason but here’s the link from a different site

ceramic coating for leather

This is of course based on 5 years or detailing my own cars and trying bunch of products. When I’m on the go I use this waterless car wash

Get a California Car Duster and try to give her a brushing every other day, daily if you can. If you keep up with it, it will stay pretty clean for a long time.

i use Amazon.com: Nanoskin (AS-019) AutoScrub Fine Grade Sponge and as lube some shampoo diluted in water. does an amazing job and quite quick!

And just think, some of the suds dripped off BEFORE I got this shot. Here are the links to the Foam Gun/Cannon and the soap:

Foam Gun/Cannon

Soap - Chemical Guys Honeydew Snow Foam

I also grabbed the mitt that was offered with it from Amazon.

I added some soap to the canister with the water to dilute it. I just poured in what I thought was good. My pressure washer is a gas powered Troy from Lowes rated at 2900 PSI.

Hope this helps you out.

I personally have only used the Nanoskin sponge to decontaminate my car. It's a highly recommended clay alternative.

As for a sealant/wax, I'm not sure if my recommendations will be of any use since I just started detailing my own car over the last ~6 months. I have only tried one wax (Meguiar's Ultimate Liquid Wax) and one sealant (Opti-Seal). Longevity of the Ultimate Liquid Wax wasn't great IMO. I'd look into Collinite 845 since it's highly regarded and there are plenty of tips/tricks on how to use it.

Honestly, easiest solution may be go to with CarPro Essence or HD Speed. I don't think there are any special tips/tricks on how to use Essence or HD Speed, and both will allow you to polish and seal your paint in one step. Admittedly, I haven't looked into either much, but they are next in line for me to research.

I have three that I alternate between, and I like all three of them equally. I actually think 2 of the 3 are identical.

TheRagCompany - http://www.theragcompany.com/knobby-microfiber-chenille-mitt/
Autopia-Car Care - http://www.autopia-carcare.com/super-plush-wash-mitt.html
Chemical Guys - http://amzn.com/B003TTL0TE

Thank you! Are we talking Turtle wax or something like this?

​

Eraser Wheel

Grab one of these from Amazon or locally if you can find one and hook it up to a drill. People (myself included) use these to remove decals and such from vehicles. So if it is safe enough to use on automotive paint you can be assured that it won't hurt your flooring.

You will have it up in no time with one of these.

So this one?

https://www.amazon.com/Mothers-155700-Wheel-Brush/dp/B001GJ3DZS
https://www.amazon.com/Mothers-Detail-Brush-Set-Pack/dp/B001GJ3EJS

and this

https://www.amazon.com/Omega-17181616-Speed-Master-Wheel/dp/B00E9E76F0

Why do you like this one better than say

https://www.amazon.com/EZ-Detail-3001-BP-Brush-Mini/dp/B007UTN60K

I know its almost always just what someone has or bought but figured I would ask. Thanks for the recommendations.

Thanks for all the info! I ended up buying the MATCC one from Amazon and will prolly pick up the 1.1mm orifice that @Ziomalski suggested. I chose this cannon b/c I know it fits the SPX3001 out the box.

Will be here today. Excited to see the results.

Sounds like you need a clay bar. Or my favorite, a Nanoskin sponge.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001GJ3E2K/ref=wms_ohs_product
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001GJ3EJS/ref=wms_ohs_product
used those brushes on my VMR v710's and worked pretty well.

Thank you! I didn't realize that the clouds and sky would open up like that at the end. Here's the cannon I used MATCC Adjustable Foam Cannon 1 Liter Bottle with Chemical Guys Pink Suds

So I am looking into buying some detailing supplies for doing wheels and was hoping someone could look over this list. It is probably overkill, but I would rather have everything I need I think.

Brushes

ABN Wheel Whoolies

Boars Hair Detail Brush Set

Mothers Wheel Brush

Cleaners

Iron X

Meguiars Hot Shine Gloss Tire Spray

Meguiars D101 APC

The total comes out to $113 but I figured I would only be buying most of these items once so it will be worth it. Also this list doesnt even have any sort of sealant so not sure if I should buy one of those also?

What about this:

Waterless Car Wash Wax Kit 144 oz. Aircraft Quality Wash Wax for your Car RV & Boat. Guaranteed Best Waterless Wash on the Market https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00X04JRMU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_LU9wzbMKHS002

I can't chime in on the Purple Power, but I do have an emergency kit that I have in my trunk.

I bought a tote and couple clear spray bottles (16oz) that look like this: http://www.amazon.com/Chemical-Guys-ACC_121-16HD-Resistant-Sprayer/dp/B00ABYVT64/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1412788019&sr=8-2&keywords=chemical+guys+spray+bottles

1. Quick Detailer (diluted ONR, but you can use what you like)
   
2. Glass Cleaner (Stoner's invisible glass)
   
3. APC
   
4. Microfiber towels from TRC
   
   I don't want to start putting too many things and these are the items I found that'll work until I get home and do actual maintenance if needed.

It is one of these. I have them on S&S for this very purpose. Also works great for cleaning grout in the bathroom or on floors.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003TU662Y/

A plastic razor blade and some liquid adhesive remover will work as others have mentioned. Another alternative is a eraser wheel. You just need to be careful with these as they create a lot of friction and burn plastic fairly easily. They are the correct tool for the job though.

Get yourself one of these. Eraser Wheel if you have a drill, these work great.

https://www.amazon.com/Nanoskin-AS-019-AutoScrub-Grade-Sponge/dp/B00CUAWJ6G/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1503197119&sr=8-1&keywords=nanoskin

That's what I use. Works great.

Aero Cosmetics Wet or Waterless. Whether full wash or not. This is what I use. Works great. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00X04JRMU?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Also, this stuff is amazing. It takes about 10-15 minutes to keep up the shine and can be used on all surfaces.

link!

For exterior and glass, I've been using Aero Cosmetics waterless wash and wax, absolutely amazing slick results. Just wipe on and wipe off.

In another thread someone suggested a smart eraser - http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00488DDB8

They said that it worked really well. I'll be trying it out Monday on a large amount of adhesive

This is what I currently use for the tires themselves: https://www.amazon.com/Mothers-155700-Wheel-Brush/dp/B001GJ3DZS
As for the rims, a good cleaner like Sonax can really help, but other than that, I just use some cheap microfibers to wipe em' down

Wet them, spray with something like this, then apply some elbow grease with something like this. Rinse and dry.

I was actually looking into getting the Nanoskin version of this and I am so scared of it instilling swirls into my paint. Somebody please help me make a decision, I need some pros / cons.

Did you not decontaminate the paint with clay or alternative??!

Oh boy. Your paint is supposed to feel VERY smooth after a wash, clay, and wax. Here's a review of a nanoskin sponge which is 100% worth it I wrote. My car feels so smooth it's ridiculous.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00CUAWJ6G/

http://www.reddit.com/r/AutoDetailing/comments/2bjc99/the_best_10_ive_spent_detailing_nanoskin/

Not decontaminating your paint also results in you rubbing abrasive particles into your clear coat and swirling it.

Here's my advice-

1. Buy the nanoskin product I linked
   
   
2. Wash your car with dawn dish soap. This strips and existing wax so you can get back under it.
   
   
3. Dry the car.
   
   
4. Use the nanoskin sponge and decontaminate the entire surface of your car.
   
   
5. Protect with wax or sealant.

Here's an alternative to the CG easy reach:

Wheel Brush

The only prob I have with this brush (I have it) is that when you pull it out of deep in the barrel, it likes to shoot a bit of spray back at you bc the bristles are stiff.

I like woolies better, but this is great too.

I dunno how well dryer sheets actually work, but something like this is actually made for the job.

Aero Cosmetics Wet or Waterless Car Wash Wax Kit 144 Ounces. Aircraft Quality for Your Car, RV, Boat, Motorcycle. The Best Wash Wax. Anywhere, Anytime, Home, Office, School, Garage, Parking Lots. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00X04JRMU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_PTFJBbS9FW3SZ

Can't recommend enough.

AMMO NYC wheel soap, wash mitt, wheel brushes, and lots of manual labor. I have a separate bucket just for wheels because I don't want that stuff getting anywhere near my paint when washing. When finished I coat with Armor all brake dust repellent. It actually works.

I use this little wheel brush as part of my kit: https://www.amazon.com/EZ-Detail-3001-BP-Brush-Mini/dp/B007UTN60K/
It's amazing for getting in all the nooks and crannies of Porsche wheels.

I can confirm, similar idea does work. I use this - https://www.amazon.com/Chemical-Guys-ACC-201-BRUSH-MD-Medium-Attachment/dp/B003TU662Y/ref=sr_1_5_s_it?s=hpc&ie=UTF8&qid=1500734602&sr=1-5&keywords=drill+brush

Spray on some cleaner, let sit 3-5 minutes, hit with drill brush, spray off. Fast, easy, spotless.

I guess this wash mit is pretty Awwdorable .... ish?

My husband dusts his car everyday and loves the [California duster]
(http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00008RW9U/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1449581143&sr=8-1&pi=SX200_QL40&keywords=california+duster&dpPl=1&dpID=41J3fWzjf2L&ref=plSrch) I got him. Also, interior spray and exterior spray. Some microfiber cloths. As you can see, we try to keep to keep the car in pretty pristine condition. I guess this isn't just specially for Teslas but I thought I would give my 2 cents.

Can you feel anything when you move your fingers over it? It may be worth asking r/AutoDetailing. Another option is to use a nanoskin which works like a clay bar.

I had no idea what you meant... Googled it. Amazoned it. Ordered it. Thank you! It sounds like this is going to be a game changer!

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00008RW9U/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_FxNSAbCK0ZNTY

When using a clay bar alternative like this, do you apply it the same as you would a clay bar? Wet the surface with an auto detailing spray, then gently pass back and forth with the bar until it slides smoothly?

I've got the MATCC Foam Cannon - use it with honeydew. Paired with the Powerstroke electric pressure washer that they sell at Costco for $150 it's a great combo without spending crazy money.

this drill brush And diluted resolve carpet cleaner.

Save your money, just get this and this instead and start washing. You'll find out what else you want/need as you go.

I upgraded my method this time around and it went a lot better than my last car. I used a heat gun to warm up the badge (kept checking surrounding paint with my fingertips) then used some braided fishing line (25lb) with zip ties on each end to save my fingers. Sawing motion with the line behind the badge. After I carefully pop it off I did a combo of rolling the adhesive off (quick heat gun helps) with my fingers and using an eraser pad at low RPMs. Those things are amazing and it did zero damage to the paint. Rinse, wash and wax the area afterwards. If the truck wasn't brand new it might need some paint correction to make things look right.

Way cheaper than what the dealership wanted and only took me 30mins.

Yes you can use that one, I actually have this one. I bought a two pack in case something happens with one so I'll have one on hand.

The interior was easy. Vacuum, wiped down with Nextzett Cockpit Premium, and dressed some parts with 303. The only bad thing was I was vacuuming in the sun, so it was hot af. The paint had oxidation, but the owner didn't have much time so I only washed it and sealed it with Sonax Polymer Net Shield.

Sure!

Foam Applicator 1

Foam Applicator 2

Microfiber Applicator these also come in packs of two

I just use a cheap MATCC foam cannon from Amazon. So far I've been using the Chemical Guys honeydew shampoo and it works really well.

This

This

&

This

Fill bottle like 1/5th of soap and rest water. Spray on dry car.

As a black car owner:

• A good wax
  
• A California Duster
  
• Quick Detailer
  
  EDIT I feel like someones going to chime in and say I'm wrong. This is the way I keep my black car clean & new looking. I bet there are better ways but I do what works for me...

You can wash anywhere. Try this. It's the best car wash I've ever used and requires no water.

What I used:

Mothers Microfiber Performance Drying Towel.

AmazonBasics Microfiber Cleaning Cloth, (Pack of 24).

Chemical Guys MIC_701_01 - Glass and Window Waffle Weave Towel.

Stoner 92164 Invisible Glass for Window, Windshield and Mirror Cleaner.

Rain-X 800002243 Glass Treatment.

Griot's Garage 10268 Micro Fiber Wash Mitt.

Optimum (NR2010Q) No Rinse Wash & Shine.

Eagle One 665854 All Wheel and Tire Cleaner.

Mothers Wheel Brush.

Mothers 10324 Reflections Tire Care.

Chemical Guys ACC_300_2 - Durafoam Contoured Large Tire Dressing Applicator Pad.

Meguiar's G14422 Ultimate Quik Detailer.

303 Products 30350 Aerospace Protectant.

Black & Decker CHV1510 Dustbuster 15.6-Volt Cordless Cyclonic Hand Vacuum.

(I live in an apartment complex... otherwise I'd probably get a shop vac).

Two 5 gallon buckets.

2 of The Grit Guard Inserts.

I used sonax and this brush http://www.amazon.com/Mothers-155700-Wheel-Brush/dp/B001GJ3DZS.

Then I finished up with a chenille wash mitt. That's seems to work for me.

I need to invest in a better brush for the barrels, don't have anything for that yet.

I have this, which you can use with this stuff or any other ONR product really and keep them with you. Just spray it on, let sit for a few seconds, and use the bug sponge to wipe off. Should come off easy.

Most people I have seen use this method say it works great. But some say it causes micro-scratches in the glass. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯ I Just avoid it all together and use my Medium Nanoskin Sponge.

Simple foam cannon from Amazon

If you think $15 bucket is better than a $2 home depot bucket, then it will be only because you have to justify for spending the extra money.

A lot of times in the detailing business if the seller believes in the price so will the consumer.

Buy many microfiber towels - noted. How do you think something like this would work? https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00X04JRMU/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A1SUA7J0YAZSHI&psc=1

I use AeroCosmetics waterless... so convenient.

Wet or Waterless Car Wash Wax Kit 144 Ounces. Aircraft Quality for Your Car, RV, Boat, Motorcycle. The Best Wash Wax. Anywhere, Anytime, Home, Office, School, Garage, Parking Lots. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00X04JRMU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_1VZrDbHP4H0K3

Of course, if heavy dirt, I wash with foam cannon and 2 bucket. But that’s a rarity. Sometimes I just quickly power wash the exterior, bring the car in the garage and use the AeroCosmetics.

I use one of these. Works well dry with or without the keys, then spray it down with some Lysol cleaner and do it again.


https://www.amazon.com/Chemical-Guys-ACC_G09-Flagged-Handle/dp/B00BCH51ZO/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1506561074&sr=8-6&keywords=CHEMICAL+GUYS+WHEEL+BRUSH