(Part 2) Reddit mentions: The best shoe, jewelry & watch accessories

Oh man, I love when people ask stuff like this on Reddit. I bootblack, and have worked on countless leather boots! Frye boots are lovely.

First off, what kind finish do your Melissa Buttons have, or did they have when you got them? For instance, looking at the current line, Antiqued/Polished can take polish, Rugged should not be polished, and Suede will have an entirely different cleaning/care routine from the other two. I'll assume it's closer to the first two for the following.

For any leather that's not suede or nubuck, the first step is cleaning. You can pick up some saddle soap (Kiwi exists in your local drug store or grocery store and is totally fine) or use just about any mild soap - I regularly use diluted Dr. Bronners. You want to create a lather and scrub that into the leather, and then wipe the boot down with a damp, not wet, rag. Be sure to get all the suds off the boot, but don't soak it either. If it's really dirty, feel free to repeat this step!

Then, I would choose a conditioner. I'd actually stay away from an animal-based oil like neatsfoot oil or mink oil, as well as less-stable oils like olive oil, since those could go rancid with too much humidity. I'm a big fan of Obenauf's, which gives good deep conditioning with just a bit of product (seriously, a little goes a long way) and has a pretty neutral scent. Frye actually sells a conditioning cream of their own, which I imagine would also be fine. Pretty much anything with a beeswax base is also good. Apply with your fingers so you can really rub it into the leather - the heat from your hands will help work it in.

Finally, if your boot is the sort that would look better with some shine, I would wait a day or two to let the conditioner soak in and then apply a bit of cream polish - this will give your boots some shine, but it won't be like, patent-leather mirror shiny, which I feel would be the wrong style for Frye boots. Kiwi also sells these, but Meltonian is my go-to. With cream polish, you apply a light coat and then buff the boot with a shoe brush in light, fast strokes. You can use your fingers to apply the polish, but it'll dye your fingertips, so either wear gloves or use a rag or a polish brush. Buff the boot until it's shiny to your liking!

Don't worry too much, it's pretty hard to ruin a good pair of boots while taking care of them. They'll definitely be happier with a bit of TLC!

I bought all my materials from Amazon and I've done about 3 Mods.

Heres a little documentation of my 1st one.

Seiko 5 Mod; PAM Cali Dial & Sword Hands & some more photos

Some things that I suggest you get before starting.

• Magnifier Opposed to a Loupe this works well and is rather convenient with 3 magnifications
  
  
• Precision Tweezers You need, need this. Seriously
  
  
• Crystal Press Self explanatory
  
  
• Dust Blower Often times you get dust on your dial while it sits, so get this to get rid of it
  
  
• Hand Press I don't particularly like the hand remover included but it does the job just fine
  
  
• Cushioned Holder I used this to hold the movement taking it out of the case
  
  
• Silicone Grease Used to grease the gaskets for increased water resistance
  
  
• Caseback Ball One of the best things you can get to be honest, it removes most casebacks
  
  
• Movement Holder To uhh, hold the movement
  
  
• Precision Screwdrivers You need this to unscrew the movement from the holders, also good tool to use for when you take apart movements to learn
  
  
• Hypo Cement Used this for bezel attachments for when you change em up
  
  Let me know if you've any questions, I'd be willing to help you out and answer them to the best of my ability :)
  
  Cheers!

Care of leather is generally broken down into four or five-ish steps, depending on what type of leather you have, what products you are using, and what you are trying to achieve.

1. Clean
   
2. Condition
   
3. (Re-)color
   
4. Polish
   
5. Waterproof
   
   Cleaning and conditioning are the absolute essentials. The other 3 are optional.
   
   Cleaning your leather has different levels of aggressiveness. Core cleaning is wiping it with a soft cloth or brush. Next level up is wiping it down with water and a soft cloth (do not do this for suede). These two levels are pretty safe for all leathers. Next level up is to use a mild leather cleaner (many brands here, generally all labeled "leather cleaner"; also a product called saddle soap, which is slightly more aggressive), which generally isn't necessary, but in your case of using your boots for two seasons without any sort of care, you might want to do it. Care here: using leather cleaner will strip leather of oils, and will need to be immediately conditioned after the cleaning process is done. The final level to cleaning are heavier cleaners, intended to strip down the entire shoe of all waxes, and maybe even stripping down the finish itself. Mostly industrial/professional use at this point.
   
   Second step is conditioning the leather, or replenishing oils/waxes on the leather. Lots of products here, sold under a variety of names, but usually something like "leather conditioner," "cleaner/conditioner," or "leather lotion." Examples include Bick's, Venetian Shoe Cream (VSC, three links here), Saphir Renovateur (affectionately known as Reno), Allen Edmonds Conditioner Cleaner.
   
   A note about VSC: its name is "shoe cream," but it's generally regarded as a conditioner, and not a true shoe cream, which I will discuss below.
   
   The products discussed above are typically gentler, more fine conditioners. They are suitable in general for most any leather, but are excellent for higher-quality, soft calfskin or chromexcel leathers. They will also work on boots.
   
   For products such as boots, which are thicker, rougher, more outdoorsy leather, you might want a thicker, more protective product. To that end, there are more heavy leather dressings such as Pecard's leather dressing and Obenauf's LP. These also add a stronger water protective coating than the other coatings above (these have more wax), and may darken leather. Do not use these for finer leather goods, but this category of product may be perfect for your boots.
   
   For re-coloring (or coloring), there are, obviously, leather dyes. But there are also shoe creams, which are a bit of a blend of conditioners, polish, and color. There are also traditional shoe polish, which is a hard wax. Shoe polish does not usually provide conditioning, only color and polish. Shoe cream is more appropriate where you want deeper, more vibrant color restoration or color mixing; polish is more appropriate where you want a harder shine (dress shoe, perhaps some sort of army boot).
   
   Polishing is shine. Shine is really only desirable usually in dress shoes. Typical products are shoe creams (soft shine) and hard wax shoe polish (hard shine), discussed above. Also a bunch of chemical products like quick shines, shine sponges, and other things which I would avoid.
   
   Finally is waterproofing. Waterproofing can usually be achieved by using wax. And, coincidentally, most of the products above (conditioners (Pecard's, Obenauf's), shoe creams, shoe polish) contain wax. Shoe polish contains the most wax (as, obviously, it is a block of hard wax) and will provide the most water protection, but again, it might not be appropriate on your shoe as it also provides shine. There are also more chemical waterproof sprays / products that you can apply to your leather, which I would avoid. For example, the natur seal that you have seems to be silicone-based. I personally wouldn't use it.
   
   So, having said all of that, what should you buy? In your case, probably some sort of leather cleaner and conditioner. I like Pecard's, but you can go with any of the products I listed, or not listed as long as it fits within those general guidelines. If you're completely lost, you can just buy Red Wing's stuff, but it's important to understand what you're buying, so you know what it's doing and so you don't end up with a thousand different leather products from every company that all do essentially the same thing.
   
   [Edit] To be clear, I sort of went overboard in this guide. Steps 3 and 4 generally apply to dress shoes, not boots. For the case of your boots, I would generally ignore color and shine.

I recently bought a pair of Red Wing IR boots. They fit quite snug but I actually find them super comfortable. Even though they are stiff already I can tell they are going to be comfortable.

However, my wife wasn't super pleased with the price tag - she wants me to make sure I take good care of them and that they actually do last a lifetime. Protip: talk with your spouse prior to buying ~$280 boots :-)

Anyways, I've worn a pair of King's Toe boots now for almost 10 years so I trust the quality, but I'm wanting to make sure I do everything possible to appease the missus.

My understanding of what I need to do:

1. Clean with a cloth/brush to remove dirt frequently
   
2. Occasionally lightly condition, I bought this when I bought them at the recommendation of the store salesman. I probably will only need to do this every month or less since I don't "heavily" wear them
   
3. Buy a shoe tree of some sort - any recommendations? Is this one good enough?
   
   I'm also concerned regarding frequency of wearing. Red Wing doesn't say anywhere about trying to avoid wearing them every day, but in my read all-the-things quest here I've seen a lot of discussion on that point but only in passing, is there a good explanation for why/how that is important? I'm surprised not to see it anywhere on RW's site.
   
   

There seems to be quite a lot of variety in regards to care methods, but here are my thoughts. These are shoes that can last, if maintained properly.

I'd suggest you invest in saddle soap, a stiff brush, cedar shoe trees and some mink oil, all of which comes to under $35 USD.

• After a day of wear: Brush any mud or debris off of them, and put in the shoe trees. This will aid in drying and keeping form. The quick drying, combined with the cedar wood will keep odour to a minimum.
  
  
• Every 3 to 4 weeks: Use a soft cloth to apply some mink oil, let it set, then buff it off. This will give water protection and condition the leather. N.B. It will darken the leather, but as they age, this will help the overall patina.
  
  
• Every season, or when they've become considerably soiled: Brush them clean, then give them a hardy scrub with the saddle soap. This will clean off the deeper set dirt and any oil build up. You may lose some of your hard earned patina, but this will come back. After cleaning, dry on your shoe trees and then apply mink oil as noted above.
  
  As for breaking them in, wear them around the house and out and the leather will soften quite quickly. As LabiaMinora mentioned, loafer (hidden) socks are great if you find them irritating, or prefer socks. Also, many have suggested using Gold Bond or similar powders to control sweating and odour. This is fine, just remember to clean the inside of your shoes as well. Particulate buildup will do them no good.
  
  So, that's the brief intro to full grain leather boat shoe care. Good luck!

> durable and could last hopefully over 8 months

durable can mean many things, and you seem to need a few different things ...

> I'm getting tired of finding holes both on the inside and outside of sneakers that are months old

So it sounds like you might need hard wearing outers to deal with rocks, brambles, dog walking in long grass. That bit should be easy; choose sneakers meant for off-roading that have leather/suede/hard outers. I'm not sure Adidas PrimeKnit will stand up to dog walking on the sand dunes with tough grass and brambles, for instance, but the Adidas Terrex shoes would do a better job.

> that can handle ~20 miles of walking/jogging per week

Miles per week doesn't matter. Total mileage does. Durable in terms of "soles that last a lot of miles" is not something manufacturers really advertise in sneakers. Most manufacturers advise a max of 500 miles/6 months of wear before you'll see serious sole deterioration that can lead to injury.

Your personal mileage may also vary. Do you "float" as a runner, or stomp? It also depends on your gait (do you have exaggerated gait issues that lead to heavy wear/compression in particular spots of the sole), your weight, how hard you heel-strike/lift-off etc. You might naturally get more than 500 miles out of sneakers, you might naturally get a lot less.

Speaking of gait you should regularly your gait measured (they usually do it for free) at a running store to see if you need neutral/stable shoes for running (or even orthotics) to make sure you don't exacerbate any issues and lead to injuries.

> I walk/jog/ and work all in the same pair.

I don't know what your work is. If it is just sitting then the only concern here is the amount of time you have the shoes on your feet, and how smelly/sweaty they'll get. If it is a lot of walking and manual labour (lifting/twisting your feet on the spot) that's another. Something like the continental soles on the newer adidas terrex/boosts etc. might make the soles last longer, particularly if you find you've been wearing the tread in the same spot on your old pairs. They also might be safer as they are grippy on slick floors.

Given you wear them every day, as much as anything else it's about how you look after them. I would make sure you dry them every night so they don't rot/smell. After you take them off loosen the laces and let them breath for twenty minutes. If they got rained on then take out the insoles and stuff with newspaper to help them dry them out properly. Once dried/if not rained on then use cedar shoe trees to kill bacteria, make them smell good and stop them rotting inside (they only cost $20, get them 3 sizes smaller than your shoes and take out the springs if they look like they might stretch them). Don't put them in a warm place to dry every day; that just helps the bacteria grow.

----------------

TL;DR

• You seem to want durable outers. If you wear holes in your outers quickly then get shoes meant for trail running/off-roading with hard-wearing material.
  
• You also seem to want soles that last (8 months of 20 miles a week = 640 miles) but most manufacturers recommend a 500 mile/6 month limit on soles for running shoes. You may just have to revise expectations on that. However getting your gait analysed will help pick soles that match/help your gait and may decrease the wear on certain spots on the soles/cushioning.
  
• You also wear them every day; there's no fix there other than drying them out every night using newspaper/cedar shoe trees to stop them rotting/smelling.
  

I have the Brooks Brothers kit with the cedar stand that is ridiculously overpriced, but I wanted it badly anyway and bought it as a present to myself on my birthday and got it and enjoy the hell out of it. With that said, although I enjoy the kit, the little Kiwi kit you can buy in the little bag from Walmart/Target is perfectly fine and will suit your needs completely. I used that for years and liked the stuff. Kiwi still makes great polish. Since this is r/frugal I would definitely say that is the route to go. Here's a link on Amazon to what I'm talking about. It's $15 and free shipping with Prime. That's for black and brown. Can't go wrong there.

Alright, I have a recipe for you. It is a spicy apple molasses cake; It's one of my favorite cakes. This would pair amazingly with your mead for the ultimate fall drink and dessert. Both of these simply exude the flavors of fall, pumpkin, apples, molasses, and spice. Bonus points as it is vegan :)

Apple Molasses Cake

2 1/2 cups wholemeal self-raising flour
1 1/2 teaspoons baking powder
1 cup thinly sliced apple
1/2 cup golden syrup/corn syrup
2 tablespoons molasses
1/2 cup hot water
1/2 cup brown sugar
1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1/2 teaspoon ground cloves
1/4 teaspoon grated nutmeg
1/4 teaspoon salt (optional)
6 tablespoons vegetable margarine
Preheat the oven to 350F (180C)

Use a 9 inch round cake tin.

Grease and line the cake tin. Mix the syrup and molasses. Fold in the apples and cook on a low flame until they are tender. Allow to cool. Melt the margarine in the hot water and mix the liquid gradually into the flour. Add all the other dry ingredients, little by little, constantly stirring to keep smooth. Finally stir in the syrup-apple-molasses mixture. Pour into the tin and bake 45-60 minutes. Test with a warm knife. Allow to cool in the tin before turning out. Enjoy the deliciousness! (not optional)

Edit: Linked item

Current tools in the box

From Amazon:

• Pair of clear plastic dome trays
  
• Silicone Repair Mat
  
• Watch Press and Pry Tools
  
• Caseback and Movement Holder
  
• Hand Press and Hand Removal Tweezers (i actually took the post out of the press, and used the piston by itself. the press does not move straight up and down, so I found it easier to hand hold the piston and guide the press myself slowly.
  
  • I have these hand press tools on order, and should hopefully have them in the next week.
    
• Rodico
  
• General Watch tool Kit
  
  ​
  
  Also, this is the walkthrough video I used for reference when changing the movement.
  
  ​
  
  Happy Modding!

You can wear any shoe on Gods green earth with these puppies
https://www.amazon.com/No-Tie-Shoelace-Locks-Completes/dp/B00JOMBZQ8

If those don't float your boat:
You may want to consider a pair of Adidas NMD_R1 sneakers. They're extremely comfortable and the laces are just for show so you could ask a friend or family member to doubleknot them for you tightly so that they never come untied, or you could tuck the laces into the toe of the shoe. They fit loose enough to slip right into them, tied or not, yet your foot doesn't slide around in the shoe when you walk. If you're not interested in those then I would suggest some sanuks. They have lots of styles and are very comfortable and fit right in at most social settings so they'll look casual and nice.

http://www.adidas.com/us/men-nmd-shoes
http://www.sanuk.com/mens-shoes/sideline/SMF10668.html?dwvar_SMF10668_color=BMRS

I really hope you find what you're looking for :)

Shoe trees are definitely going to help. They wick out any moisture left after a day's wear and help keep the form of the shoe as it naturally contracts as it dries.

I also should have been more specific, as you want cedar shoe trees like these for them to be the most effective. The cedar is what absorbs the moisture and also acts as a natural odor-reducer ...which is something for which I am gravely thankful. lol

Very cool that you're attempting the resole yourself! It makes sense given the cost to replace as you said.

I size all of my bracelets myself, and I've never damaged any of my watches in doing so. Pick up a pin pusher off of amazon or the like, something you can use to press the pins back into the links, something to release the spring bar in the clasp, and a spudger to get it back in. You can also buy a repair kit for under 20 bucks which has everything you need. Just go slow and don't force things and it'll be fine.

As for straps, I put mine on a red-accented bond style nato, which I absolutely love it on. I've also seen it on leather racing straps, or just plain old leather. The one thing I would caution you about is buying thick natos for this watch. The lugs are super short, so really only the thinnest of natos fit, and even then just barely. Great watch!

It is a really really solid game, and if you end up loving it as much as we did, there are some very simple amazon purchases you can make to make setup take <5mins.

Power Tile holder - Cut off 1 row and the binder holes and you can store all of the power tiles in here. These fold in half and fit perfectly in the box. Setup is as simple as taking the 3 sheets out of the box and done!

Player boxes - Put each colored players pieces in these boxes (battle cards, miniatures, prayer point tracker, turn tracker, and action tokens). With the last extra box, put the Divine Intervention cards and all of the small extra silver/gold action tokens. If you can find ones that are slightly deeper you could even fit each of the 3 colored pyramids.

Victory Point holder - Holds all of the victory points in their own compartments.

A lot of people act like taking care of leather is like raising a child, when its more like raising a cat. Just treat it like really durable skin, which is exactly what it is, its not rocket science. Keep the insides dry and the leather supported with cedar shoe trees when you're not wearing them, clean the surface every once in a while with saddle soap or even just warm water, and apply a leather conditioner if the leather feels stiff or dry. I recommend Venetian Shoe Cream.

I recently bought these a few days ago, and I ordered this mink oil to help protect it, I haven't applied it yet since I wanna be absolute sure that it's going to protect it and not damage it. Anyone know if this is beneficial?

This is what they look like! :)

I asked this previously and have received a reply from /r/femalefashionadvice (I'm a male and these are male shoes but haven't received a reply there yet) and they said it would be fine.

I just spent a decent bit of money on these so I wanna make sure I care for them properly!

I am guessing that he cleaned them with a horsehair brush, wiped them down with water, let dry, cleaned with saddle soap, then conditioned with leather conditioner, oil, or shoe creme. Could have polished them with shoe polish and buffed them to a shine.

What's really cool is that you can get the stuff to do this at home (and you should) for something like $20. Then you can do it whenever your shoes need it. It's good preventative maintenance. I also started liking shoes a lot more once I started doing this myself. Here is a shopping list.

• saddle soap - $5.69
  
• neatsfoot oil - $5.94
  
• some old rags.. cotton tshirts or socks or whatever.
  
• shoe polish - $7.50.. but I am sure you can get it cheaper.
  
• brush - $3.50
  
  also check out allen edmonds site. they have cheap shoe care products and free shipping.

While that seems very warm, I actually bought this peacoat and found it to be very warm and i wore it with about everything I owned. I go to URI, so the entire campus is a hill of ice. I was able to get away with clarks because the weather was mild this winter, but my boots are a pair of hand me down red wings from my dad. Those aren't them, but they are similar. I love them. Never once had water seep into my boots. You will be able to pull out less extreme boots most of the time so as for waterproofing your shoes, this goes a long way. That goes for all shoes, even in the summer you never know if your sperrys will get wet. If you have any other questions feel free to PM me.

Edit: lol - there is totally no consensus.

In terms of the cheap stuff, there is the big blue one, and the smaller gray/silver/black one. They both work fine, until the pokey part breaks (and it WILL break). Either one of those, with extra pokey parts, is a fine choice (for a time). I personally like the smaller silver one.

A more practical long-term solution (that sacrifices a bit of convenience) is a hammer/punch. This is what I wind up using 90% of the time. This kit gives you the best of both worlds.

None of those are really the best, but most of them work for occasional home use, at least for a time. Pro's mostly use a high end hammer and punch, and holder (like this), but occasionally something like this, or this. Those are ostensibly great tools, but probably overkill for the DIYer.

I know it might seem like an unwanted expensive, but a box to keep these in will help keep them nice.
If your budget is tight, you can pick up a cheap one on Amazon.
https://www.amazon.com/Sodynee-WBPU12-03-Dislpay-Organizer-Leather/dp/B00SAOY4GY/ref=mp_s_a_1_2/147-6581004-0716736?ie=UTF8&qid=1549248239&sr=1-2&pi=SL140_SY180_CR0,0,140,180_QL70

It’s nice to keep them together, because you could easy lose one like that.

i'm just getting started doing the same actually. i bought all of my equipment for super cheap in one of those kits from amazon like this as well as a cheap watch press. They work relatively well.

The only other things i would recommend are getting a different type of case back remover (i found that these work better than the three point ones included in the kit) and something to hold the movement and other parts in once you remove them.

I found that using something with an 7S26 movement is the easiest since you can find a ton of video tutorials on them on youtube.

Finally, watchuseek's Seiko and Citizen forums have tons of documentation and step by step tutorials to check out.

Use a leather cleaner to clean them up, first. Then rub in some mink oil.

They are a good starter boot. However, the best lesson they will most likely end up teaching you is that an expensive boot is worth every penny. When they're worn out in a few months, consider Red Wings or Wolverines.

Good luck!

But if you get two pairs of shoes, alternate between them, and use some shoe trees, they easily last more than twice as long. Basically, by alternating them, you allow the shoe to completely dry out and "rest" between wearings, but if you wear the same shoes daily, they wear out much faster, since they never fully dry, or reform to their "default" shape.

I've even done this with a couple pairs of Sketchers, and they've lasted me over 2 years and still going strong (which is a pretty good run, for Sketchers).

Buy good boots. Danner Arcadia. Yes they are expensive but they will last years. I can get about 10,000 miles on them before needing new soles. which luckily they are recraftable so you won't need totally new boots. I have had one summer and one winter pair for 7 years. got new soles on them once and that was recently.


Next, get good true boot socks. NOT work socks. Fox River, Either go medium weight or heavy weight. Buy a pair for each day of the week you will need them. then you will only have to wash them once on your weekend.


They are both summer socks but the heavy weights will help in the winter.

Danner makes a steel toe variant of the Arcadia and recon. avoid them unless you are in a rough area and need the extra metal for a fight.

I wore the Steel toe variants and could walk 20 miles in a 10 hour shift, do that for 5-6 days a week for months and have zero foot pain.


If you absolutely can not afford the boots get the socks. they are very important. The proper padding will make a huge difference alone.


One other thing. Get shoe deodorizers if you walk a lot. leave them closed when you put them in every night and they will help will odar a ton.

For that number of cards, I'd actually use something like this, with cards in penny sleeves (3-4 cards can fit in a single penny sleeves, to save on cost). You may consider folding and taping the opening of the penny sleeve so cards so slip out, but I think this would be the most cost effective way to do things. Plus, you could print shipping labels to put directly on the card storage box, while also taping it closed.

While this won't protect you from heavy weather, I don't think I'd mind receiving a large bulk of cards like this.

The other option, that I just remembered CardKingdom uses, are hinged hard plastic card cases similar to these. This plus a bubble mailer is what I've gotten from them on larger orders. And I think if the majority of my cards were $1-$2 rares, but I had a lot of them, I'd like them in this.

For my brown leather shoes, I use this to apply this. And then I hit it with this. There's a lot of different ways to go about it though. Put This On had an episode dedicated to shoes and they demonstrate how to polish your shoes in the film. I highly recommend checking it out (along with their other videos - very good stuff). Good luck.

Awesome job! I want to make something like this one day but feel I am a far ways off in terms of skill at this point. It'll happen eventually.

Mind sharing where you purchased the hardware?

If you don't mind a suggestion, I think it would be worth considering waxing/finishing the flesh side that shows on your handle in the 5th photo (could still be done with what is visible). It gives the backside of that handle a more finished look. I came from the boot world first, so I have been using venetian shoe cream. This is what Nick Horween suggests to maintain their waxed flesh leather. Here is sort of a 'before and after' example. I see people use tokanole, which may work better but I do not have experience.

Unfortunately, the best way to prevent stains is to treat your shoes with a waterproofing spray before they get wet. Leather is actually pretty resistant to light cleaning. Try some mild soap (like hand soap or diluted dish soap) and an old toothbrush. Scrub the dark spots with soapy water, and then wipe them down with a soft cloth/paper towel. Once everything is completely dry, spray your shoes down with a non-silicone-based water-proofer and your shoes will be protected from further staining/damage.

From what I've read online there are equal camps USE SADDLE SOAP! and NEVER USE SADDLE SOAP ON FAUX LEATHER, but I once wore my new (unwashed) jeans with a Steve Madden faux leather jacket as well as my pale grey leather Cuyana tote...both had black dye marks all over them ): Luckily I got most of it off with a cloth and warm water, but after that, I found that using saddle soap on the remainder (faint, but still present) made the marks on both almost completely unnoticeable. Not perfect, but very nearly - it seems like really only I notice because I know it's there!

If you try saddle soap, I would test a tiny bit of fabric on the inside/some other out of sight part of the jacket to see if there's any adverse reaction. Good luck!

Vastar 147 PCS Watch Repair Kit Professional Spring Bar Tool Set, Watch Band Link Pin Tool Set with Carrying Case https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HEO9UPK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_f.XNAbD5GYBQD

This has everything you need.

The tool with a blue handle will be your best friend. It uses small pins to remove the links

https://youtu.be/RypyFp0pSbA

Good luck. It’s very straightforward and lmk when you finish

I like this one the best. It's easily adjustable and the magnet is very strong. I also have this one, but you can only adjust it with a screw driver. This one also looks very nice, but you cannot adjust it without special equipment.

When I search for watch band 20mm milanese on amazon.ca, I get quite a few hits (and even more without the "milanese", of course). If you want to easily change the bands, look that you get one with "quick release spring bars". With normal spring bars you need a tiny screw driver or such a tool.

the tools i used where:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BU0MWAA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

and:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00PVN1DC0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

when using the hand remover id recommend cutting a little square out of a ziploc bag, cutting a slit in it, and have it cover the dial so the remover tool doesnt scratch it up. the dials scratch very very easily. Honestly with the cost of parts + having me put it all together, id feel like it wouldnt be worth it, better off DIY'ing it. the crystal press i have/the ones on amazon/all the cheap ones are all pretty shit and might give you trouble with the crystal install, so id recommend having a watch repair shop do that, i pinched/ruined 2 gaskets trying it myself.

Hit em with mink oil, blast em good with a hair dryer so the oil can absorb into the boot, and you'll be good to go. I recommend this brand. It has worked the best for me.

I bought this when I got into this and it did a pretty fair job of getting some shine instead of haze. And like you said, it's just bullion, delivered in a pretty package. :-)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000FIS5U4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I have something like this cheapo kit from Amazon which is good enough for resizing bracelets, changing batteries on cheap watches, swapping bezels, and other quick beginner friendly tasks. It's fine for me because I don't really collect expensive watches.

The problem is that a lot of watches can be tricky and you will rapidly begin scratching the shit out of them or clobbering their water resistance to death unless you actually buy some real gear and do a little homework, in which case I'd also refer you to /r/WatchHorology which has numerous tool and resource roundup threads. This sub has some great ones as well

Prep your boots:

Knock back the finish a bit with some diluted dish soap and a scrub brush. Set them aside to dry.

Apply some Sno-Seal liberally with rag or brush. Allow to set. For the first coat, I like to hit it with a hairdryer to let it get into the leather's pores and all the nooks and crannies where boot meets sole.

Apply a second coat of Sno-Seal and wipe off the excess with a rag.

Now get an applicator brush, a polish brush and a wax matching the color of your boots. Kiwi is a good brand, I've been using it for years.

Swirl your applicator brush around in the tin of wax and then apply it to your boots in a vigorous circular pattern. Pay attention to the areas around the crevices (such as in the instep). Let it set for a few minutes and then brush it down with the polishing brush in a vigorous back-and forth motion. Do NOT rub hard with the polishing brush - you're trying to bring it to a shine / gloss, not rub it off.

With the base coat of Sno-Seal and a good layer of wax over it you should be good for all winter. Wipe off any dirt / snow / mud before storing them in the spring, then repeat the process above in the fall.

Source: Army veteran, live in the Pacific Northwest. Many of my boots are over a decade old or more.

EDIT

For anyone following along, I reconditioned my 16-year old Vasque Sundowner boots this morning as they needed it. Questions welcomed.

Ugh, I have such trouble with suede shoes. And it seems like almost every cute boot at DSW is suede now!! I don't think you're doing anything wrong, they're just a pain in the butt to keep clean. Growing up my parents always used a product like this https://amzn.to/2POgyts to protect them, but I can't remember if it really helped. The reviews on it seem pretty good.

On the soles? Or just the shoe in general?

On Nubuck/Durabuck/Suede I use this: http://www.amazon.com/Kiwi-Suede-Protector-4-25oz/dp/B001333OZQ

On Mesh I used the same thing except the "all-purpose" version.

Leather cleans pretty easily so I don't really bother, but I will use leather conditioner if the leather is looking dried out (Amor-All Leather conditioner great and is cheap).

Something like that https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B016A8I8HC/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1484114606&sr=1-4&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&dpPl=1&dpID=316Ha6GGVRL&ref=plSrch ? The price doesn't seems crazy, that would be a good investment!
Edit : or maybe more like that https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01E4X06HA/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1484114606&sr=1-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&dpPl=1&dpID=51tJOOJ8TzL&ref=plSrch ?

I have these cedarwood shoe trees from a German manufacturer for $22 each. These shoe trees from amazon.com seem to be similar to them and the price is very good as well. Shoe trees are the most important part of shoe care (but never use them with primeknit).

I have the same pair. You can spray them if you want to help protect them from water. I use Kiwi suede protector. If you get marks on them, use a suede brush. You really don't need to baby them as desert boots like fine a little roughed up. And wear them with anything really (except black). Anything short of a suit is probably okay which is why they get suggested so often.

Leather is essentially dead skin. Like skin, it needs to be kept somewhat moist to prevent becoming brittle and cracking, but unlike living skin, it no longer receives nourishment, hence the whole point of doing this.

Keep in mind, "Less is more". Always aim for enough to cover the leather, but not enough to saturate it. Your boots will darken slightly, just like anything that acquires moisture.

If you don't follow any routine? Boots may last you a few years, maybe more, maybe less.
If you do follow a routine. Boots may last a few decades, maybe more, maybe less. They may outlast you!

• Brush: https://www.amazon.com/Kiwi-100-Horsehair-Shine-Brush/dp/B0010TR6NE
  
  
  
• Applicator Brush: https://www.amazon.com/Kiwi-Horsehair-Polish-Applicator-191-100/dp/B001ECZOKY
  
  
  
• Leather Cleaner (Haven't used this yet, but I've heard its fantastic. I've been using kiwi saddle soap). https://www.amazon.com/Leather-Cleaner-Honey-Accessories-Concentrated/dp/B00HU6N3LK
  
  
  *Leather Conditioner: https://www.amazon.com/Kiwi-Conditioning-Oil-2-5-74g/dp/B00N9CHI2O
  
  
  You can find everything you need at most department stores, but this should give you an idea of what the tools look like.

It depends on the type of watch you have. If the back of the watch looks like this, you can use one of these tools to open it. Link

Some other backs have no lugs to grasp and therefore you'd need a knife tool and possibly a watch jig to push the back on with the correct pressure.

Once it's open it's super easy to change the battery. Don't spend the $75 lifetime unless you're working with really high end watches that are better left to the pros, or it's a difficult case to open. But instead of paying $300, you can buy all the equipment you need for around $50 and do those watches, plus all future ones you acquire, for free.

Besides what /u/fluffton mentioned for the threads, you'll need to clean your contacts as well. I like this polishing cloth I got on amazon. Cheap, prime eligible, and huge. I've been using one for months and I'm still using one little corner of the white cloth inside.

Here's what's in my toolkit...

Polishing cloth

Fine Mesh Pads

20x Loupe

10x Loupe

! Canned Air

Cotton Tipped Applicators

Goulet Mylar Paper

Goulet Brass Sheets

Goulet Grip

Goulet Silicone Grease

! Careful with the canned air. It can be the cause of some funny and not so funny accidents.

A bright desk light with a magnifier comes in handy.

cool, I actually just googled suede brush and it seems like it'd be good to have if I get suede boots too. is something cheap like this a good option? http://www.amazon.com/Woodlore-Suede-Bar-And-Brush/dp/B000PD5ESU

awesome. thanks.
It's my first stain, so I was a bit overprotective. I will keep some character, but right now I feel like I look like an idiot.

Have you ever tried a suede protector like this?

I see these bottles sold everywhere for $20. I like to use a generous amount of this stuff on my boots and camp mocs, so I go through these tiny bottles faster than I'd like.

I slapped my forehead when I found the exact same brand in a 32oz tin for about $42 (with shipping). That's $1.30 per oz as compared to $5.00 per oz when bought in a tiny glass bottle.

And what makes you qualified to speak for the OP? Are you the subby whisperer? "He says... he wants... different ideas." I look forward to the feature film version of this thread, with OP being played by Channing Tatum and you being played by a slightly damp shoe tree.

Speaking of which, OP can click here and get a shoe tree sent to his beloved in about a minute, thus ending this maddening drama for all of us.

Kiwi is often recommended as an intro polish kit. This was my first kit, I just received another for Christmas so I will update my comment with that when I get home later. Kiwi works just fine, Lincoln is another brand that I think gets recommended frequently. Just make sure you clean and condition before polishing.

Every 90's high schooler will have a different take on this, but here are a couple:

• instead of tying your laces at the top hole, do this and make sure you do a square knot not a bow so it stays flat
  
• tie the knot inside the side of the shoe (close to instep) instead of at the center of the tongue, make sure it's a square knot not a bow
  
• don't tie your shoes, just lace them sufficiently and tuck the remaining laces on the sides
  
• use these
  edit for format

Get a Kiwi leather care kit and some leather conditioner

• Brush off your shoes with the brush
  
  
• Use a damp sponge to wipe off any remaining dirt (if they are exceptionally dirty you can use saddle soap)
  
  
• Dry off with a rag
  
  
• Apply the leather conditioner, let dry/absorb and buff with the chimois
  
  
• Apply polish with the sponge applicator, let dry for like an hour
  
  
• Brush shoes again, then buff again with the chimois.
  
  Also it looks like your toes are starting to separate, in which case I'd use some Shoe Goo or just some super glue to readhere

Saddle soap? Like this? Is that stuff brown/black like normal shoe polish? Also, I get what you mean by 'brown enough'; dark grey is "earthy" enough for casual purposes.

Like these: https://www.amazon.com/Crystal-Hinged-Plastic-Trading-Storage/dp/B005FSWSZM/ref=sr_1_20?ie=UTF8&qid=1540415156&sr=8-20&keywords=playing+cards+case

For game components like miniatures and dice, I like these types of cases: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00L1UJXTW/ref=sxts_kp_lp_3?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=8778bc68-27e7-403f-8460-de48b6e788fb&pd_rd_wg=5CFXk&pf_rd_r=RJGM5RHN067EPRPV971T&pf_rd_s=desktop-sx-top-slot&pf_rd_t=301&pd_rd_i=B00L1UJXTW&pd_rd_w=wmwYN&pf_rd_i=tackle+box+organizer&pd_rd_r=8ea6e90a-e326-4cf2-bee5-fb3c08858644&ie=UTF8&qid=1540415260&sr=3

This was my first one, to open cases and change batteries and stuff

SE JT6222 Watch Repair Tool Kit, 13-Piece https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004FWHOVC?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

Then I got this for hand pulling and installing when I was doing the project I mentioned

Watch Hand Presto Presser Lifter Puller Plunger Remover set Fitting Repair Tools https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BU0MWAA?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

And finally I got this because I couldn’t close some cases on my mom’s watches

Se Professional 13 Piece Set Watch Back Press W/ 12 Dies Jt1229 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005AJ5DZI?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

As for quality, I really have nothing to compare them to - they were cheap and got the job done and for how often I need them, plenty good for me.

Thanks for your reply!
Do you think these products be a good option?

https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B007Z07PLA/ref=mh_s9_acsd_otopr_bBEbVDn_c2_x_0_i?pf_rd_m=A1IM4EOPHS76S7&pf_rd_s=mobile-hybrid-11&pf_rd_r=Z7S2KSRVT4172YVD671S&pf_rd_t=1201&pf_rd_p=e4e97e7e-53fe-5a34-ac0e-d9e79cb3615f&pf_rd_i=10293268011


https://www.amazon.ca/Grangers-GRF129-Waterproofing-Made-England/dp/B00R1FOI4Q/ref=mp_s_a_1_2_sspa?keywords=leather+shoe+polish&qid=1573214130&s=shoes&sprefix=leather+shoe+p&sr=1-2-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEyNTNHSlBPWEJLRU1aJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwODA1ODc1NkFaUDJQQ0s2Vk1FJmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTAwMjIwMzczVlRCUVdCNVlWU1ZYJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfcGhvbmVfc2VhcmNoX2F0ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=

I wouldn't put powder in them as I'd think that'd just cake up whenever you sweat. I'd go with something like these. I've used those types of things in sneakers before and they worked great.

Are there any good quality kits for replacing bands that aren't made of plastic? My dad's been modifying his watches for quite a while now and I've seen he's got a couple broken handles to the plastic band replacement.

I've seen stuff like this on Amazon, and they're the kind that he's got. Are there any full metal ones?

I've also found this on Amazon, but I'm not sure if it'll be as easy for taking out the links. Any recommendations?

looks like the little nub is gone for the quick release pin
link

they sell a tool on amazon link that might do it, or try one of the small screwdriver sets, you can get them at any home goods store something like this, i bought mine at Harbor Freight near where I live.

I've been looking at shoe trees. Do you think this one is better, or this one. Or do you have one that is better than both of those. Also, with the condition that my shoes are in, do you think that using a shoe tree now is too late for my shoes?

I don't know how they do it, but these are amazing: Sof Sole Sneaker Balls Shoe Gym Bag and Locker Deodorizer, Matrix, 3-Pair https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003IJ6HFM/

Anchor Laces
http://www.amazon.com/Lock-laces-place-Lace-Anchors/dp/B00JOMBZQ8

Kickstarter was funded by many Redditors. I have them in casual shoes and they work great. I haven't used them in dress shoes though.

I like hiding my laces too. Particularly when they're too long.

So should I use mink oil, or not? Is it for something completely different?

So far, it looks like I'm getting this, this, and this. Should I get a shoe conditioner like this, too?

1. Single Malt Scotch

2. Good Watch

3. Straight Razor Shavette + Kit

4. Decent Pocket Knife

5. Shoe Shine kit

6. Fountain Pen

7. Leather Wallet

8. EDC flashlight

9. Men's manicure set

10. Bottle Opener

You can get suede protector spray that works really well in keeping your suede stain free:

http://www.amazon.com/Johnson-Inc-202-000-Kiwi-Protector/dp/B001333OZQ

I would really recommend http://amzn.com/B000PD5ESU, it comes with what is basically a big rubber eraser that takes off all the dirt off my shoes (especially that white part by the soles). Love it.

What's it look like? If it's actually stained, a cobbler probably wouldn't be able to do much, but if it's just spots, the nap's probably just worn down and you can probably get it out with something like this. Otherwise, unless it's really really bad, don't sweat it. Bucks don't need to be perfect to look good.

I am in need of these card cases, I got a few case-less decks over the holidays and i need something to put them in.

Easy Peasy Lemon Squeezy

you should start out with a basic kit (can't find the one I started on, this is basically it), hand puller/presser, and a crystal press and you should have the tools do do most anything people like to do as far as mods come... domed crystal swaps, new hands and dials, etc... plus you'll have all the tools necessary to change batteries, resize a bracelet, etc...

But the caveat is that they're inexpensive beginner tools, and if you find this to be a hobby you enjoy, you'll start replacing items one by one from Esslinger -- the tweezers aren't good enough, replace them with a nice set of 7, the screw drivers are too blunt/dull shape them for now but replace them with a nicer set, etc... while you'll eventually replace everything, there's no sense in going all in for several hundred dollars just to try it out.

I have one too, and I like it!
Add some quick release spring bars, and changing strap band just takes a few seconds. Perfect to switch from a sport band to a more "dressed" one.

(You'll need to make a cut in most bands to let the quick release nub out.)

Edit: only thing I haven't found yet is a third-party 22mm steel band with quick release lugs.

what;s the best general purpose watchback opener? not expensive, best if i coudl amazon prime it

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01IP1983U/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?smid=A2CGN80EVS3S24&psc=1 is one im considering

If you want a basic shoeshine kit for that price, go for the Kiwi one for $13 on Amazon (with free shipping)

http://www.amazon.com/Kiwi-Select-Shoe-Care-Kit/dp/B0010TP3AM/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1451192630&sr=8-4&keywords=shoe+shine+kit

I have this one:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00SAOY4GY/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_dp_ss_1?pf_rd_p=1944687682&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B007CNG96C&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=054FM3NTCJ97378J85PN

Only thing is the pillows aren't squishy enough to fit underneath of my watches with metal bands when the clasp is closed. Other than that it is a nice product for the price.

Not OP but I like this stuff sold on Amazon that's highly rated. $10 cad, been using it for several years with good results. I just use a dollar store microfibre cloth to rub it in.

Or untie your shoes and toss some sneaker balls in. They're magic and smell like clean laundry.

firstly, congratulations! secondly, look up Lace Anchors. they might be what you're looking for.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00JOMBZQ8/ref=mp_s_a_1_1_a_it?ie=UTF8&qid=1483182993&sr=8-1&keywords=lace+anchors

I use mink oil on my boots works great. But it will darken the leather, which i like...

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/aw/d/B007Z07PLA/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1459228565&sr=8-1&pi=SX200_QL40&keywords=mink+oil&dpPl=1&dpID=419oAlYEKQL&ref=plSrch

1- Saddles are a very personal thing, they may or may not fit. Maybe 3k

2- I'm not an expert in Brooks saddles but if they are actually leather it can be treated with any oil based leather care compound

Example: https://www.amazon.ca/Moneysworth-Best-Mink-Oil-Tub-6-5-Ounces/dp/B007Z07PLA/

try a silver polishing cloth like this. It's probably just a brass coating over nickel, so be gentle at first to get a feel for how thin the coating is. It looks like it's just tarnish on the brass.

I'm not sure about storing but maybe try wrapping it in tissue paper or giving it a weekly polish if you have it on display?

Cheers. I have silver jewelry that I polish weekly with this (It also works nicely on my brass Nemesis), so tarnish removal is no problem. Thanks for the advice.

Its basically a third of the way down the bar and the leather strap has a hole cut for it so you can release the spring and take the strap off. Its basically this:

http://www.amazon.com/1-8mm-Release-Spring-Cylindrical-Button/dp/B00Q7XE866

Anyway, I went ahead and ordered some spring bars and a new strap so it should all be good. Thanks anyway though!

This will give you pretty much everything you need
https://www.amazon.com/Vastar-Watch-Repair-Professional-Spring/dp/B01HEO9UPK/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1491354296&sr=8-2-spons&keywords=watch+repair+kit&psc=1

Got a similar kit, paid for itself many times just in the amount of times I have resized bracelets, let alone using the case back remover to help with a few crystal changes, and swapping a movement from one watch to another.

I wear them year round, but I'm in Vancouver and the summers are mild.

Leaving them on a shelf won't really do them much harm, but if you want to keep their shape well, I recommend a simple pair of shoe trees like these.

Rinse out the inside next time you clean your Mocs, then use a bit of Gold Bond and these things called [Sneaker Balls] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003IJ6HFM?pc_redir=1397918267&robot_redir=1). This has always worked well for me with my Sperrys and Vans, both of which I wear bear-footed.

So this?: http://www.amazon.com/Woodlore-Adjustable-Mens-Shoe-Tree/dp/B002VWKREO

Also I am wholly uninformed on this subject. What does maintaining the vamp do vs not? Also would you by those in the extra large or large? Thanks again!

> Do you change the straps often?

Given the EDC includes a "3. Crown and Buckle keyring Springbar tool" I think it's safe to assume watch strap swaps happen frequently!

/u/ThaSkeptic have you considered switching to quick release/quick change spring bars instead?

If you still have those suede boots, you should consider getting a suede cleaner kit, if you haven't already.

As for boots you can wear during the Winter, I would suggest these Chippewa boots, although they are a bit clunky, but I like them. Sign up for Amazon's shoe mail list for 20% off, and that should bring these boots to just about $100.

Edit: As /u/TripleVision suggested, if the weather is pretty bad during the Winter, Bean Boots might be the way to go and are currently $99 on the LL Bean website.

I bought some nice quick release spring bars from Amazon.

Edit: https://amzn.com/B00Q7XE866

Sneaker balls like these. I used to use these on my work boots when I was working in a pretty damp environment with lots of heavy work on shallow docks in which every couple of days you would inevitably end up with a foot in the lake. Throw these in my normal shoes while I was at work and then in my work boots when I was back.
mechanically_minded's suggestion also works, I've personally done this after drying out the boots properly, it helps kill the bacteria/mildew/algae from growing. I was told by a co-worker to keep them in the freezer at least 48 hrs.

Sounds like the internal coil spring in the band pin may have broken. As /u/PMmeYrButtholeGirls said, they should be easily replaced. Something like this should work.

Don't make it too complicated.

1. Take a brush to get rid of most of the dirt on them.
   
2. Take a wet rag and rub the boots down (this should get rid of the paint stains, if not be more abrasive with the rag)
   
3. (Optional, but suggested) Apply some sort of leather conditioner / protector (ex.Mink Oil Or Obenhaufs Leather Protector)
   
4. Use a Mr.Clean Magic Eraser (or similar) to clean the wedge sole.
   
   Some of the deeper scuffs may not go away completely, but they add character to the boot.

I've had good luck cleaning indigo bleeding off suede in the early stages with a really basic kit.

The only problem with that is that it's something you'll probably have to do every week. I cleaned a pair of sand suede Chippewa boots I've been meaning to sell that have about 5 wears.

Enjoy!

Sodynee WBPU12-03 Watch Dislpay Box Organizer, Pu Leather with Glass Top, Large, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00SAOY4GY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_6Rx-Bb3ZA4266

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FpxWjCrp8O4 - like this

Plain toe or captoe. Brown of any shade preferred. Suede or wingtip I would say is a no go for the wolverine.

One possible problem: The leather sole doesn't hold up if you wear it outside a lot. They absorb all the water really easily which is a problem with anything with a leather sole. If you are in a rainy or snowy area, you might want to go with the Allen Edmond Dalton (choose dainite sole) or Redwing 8111 (the 8111 is more casual than business casual, but still is sexy) since they are both rubber soles. I can't say anything about the Thursday Boots in the above link that has a rubber sole, but some people love them and some people hate them.

Also, cedar shoe trees are not a bad idea ( https://www.amazon.com/Woodlore-Adjustable-Mens-Shoe-Tree/dp/B002VWKREO )

I got them from Amazon.

Hand puller and press

Case back tool
Tweezers

They aren't top quality tools, but they work fine.

Woodlore is a good brand for its price. http://www.amazon.com/Woodlore-Suede-Bar-And-Brush/dp/B000PD5ESU

Good quality for the price, too!

Sodynee WBPU12-03 Watch Dislpay Box Organizer, Pu Leather with Glass Top, Large, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00SAOY4GY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_0H3PBb650S3V7

Go to a shoe store and buy a shoe tree. It might help the shoe regain its' proper shape.

https://www.amazon.com/Woodlore-Adjustable-Mens-Shoe-Tree/dp/B002VWKREO is an example of a shoe tree.

I used this: http://www.amazon.com/Woodlore-Suede-Bar-Brush/dp/B000PD5ESU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1302293067&sr=8-1

It worked pretty well but I have nothing to compare it to.

I use these things called sneaker balls because they’re super cheap and they usually prevent or remove smell if you leave em in there overnight, I would avoid OderX spray, I used it in my NMD’s and the white powder leached into evert crack and crevasse, If needs cleaning use Lysol wipe

So you're looking to display them in some way that's more prominent than they would be in a regular old watch box? A la https://www.amazon.com/Sodynee-WBPU12-03-Dislpay-Organizer-Leather/dp/B00SAOY4GY

I think /u/pizzaplanet is right, those look like suede. The beeswax technique works great on canvas, but I think it would severely damage your shoes. I would recommend using a spray made specifically for suede shoes. You can find cheap versions, like this Kiwi Suede Protector on Amazon for about $5.

I store my shoes openly below my desk. If shoe odor is an issue, I suggest some shoe fresheners. Something like this

10.5D - I use these in the suggested size, it’s a bit of a snug fit.


Ollieroo Men's Shoe Trees Twin... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00WJIRM3Y?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Thank you. Amazon of course.

Found it on amazon. Not bad for the money.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00SAOY4GY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_i_ItedBbS40KVQ3

Here's a cheap suede eraser & bristle brush kit.

And if you're curious, the shoes are Red Wing 8105 Work Oxfords.

https://smile.amazon.com/Venetian-Shoe-Cream-Ounces-Neutral/dp/B00QKXAGXW/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1549726828&sr=8-5&keywords=venetian+shoe+cream

​

https://smile.amazon.com/Bickmore-Bick-Leather-Conditioner-16/dp/B001CS8G3C/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1549726850&sr=8-3&keywords=bick+4

​

I apologize, those links are for a lot smaller quantity than 32 Oz.

This one is for a 32 Oz. can, but it's asking for $9 shipping.

https://smile.amazon.com/Fore-Supply-Co-Neutral-Venetian/dp/B00A6GAT0Y/ref=pd_sbs_309_4?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00A6GAT0Y&pd_rd_r=2607ced0-2c81-11e9-888f-47f1b1d850e8&pd_rd_w=AFB3V&pd_rd_wg=8FnGV&pf_rd_p=588939de-d3f8-42f1-a3d8-d556eae5797d&pf_rd_r=1MKFN2KWN4KQZCVPFMRG&psc=1&refRID=1MKFN2KWN4KQZCVPFMRG

I got this-sized can from Amazon in August for $40 (same seller). I don't know why it is now $160(!). Anyway, it should last me forever. Maybe just keep checking the 'Zon periodically.

Edit: price back down from space.

they're based on [these](No Tie Shoelace Locks - Lace Anchors 2.0 - Never Tie Your Shoes Again(Completes 2 pairs of shoes) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JOMBZQ8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_F1BgzbCX4PV21), so you can see how they're supposed to look. i just think the finished product is cleaner.

I get these shoelace locks from Amazon where you thread the ends of your shoelaces into the plastic bits, and then snip the extra off. It keeps your shoelaces attached to the inside of the eyelet, and there's nothing extra hanging out.

Either the brass plating came off the underlying metal (in which case polishing will just make it worse) or the brass tarnished. You can buy a polishing cloth that should do the trick, but you'll have to be careful to not rub it on the white thread or white shirt underneath or it'll leave smudges. Personally, I'd just remove the plaque permanently, it's going to be a lot of trouble to keep it looking nice.

If you're interested, this costs less than the jeweler charges for a single adjustment, and then you'll be set for life: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01E4X06HA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_gCiyCb9J7ARBR

http://www.amazon.com/Woodlore-Adjustable-Mens-Shoe-Tree/dp/B002VWKREO. Put it in your shoe when you re not wearing out and it prevents creases. You can always put wadded up newspaper if you want to go cheap.

Yes, with this, no as is.

This is for smooth leather ONLY. If your bag is nubuck, it will ruin it by causing the small fibers that create the soft finish to lay flat. Get a cleaner that is specifically for suede or nubuck- it will be a spray or a soft sponge. Like this.

That will work for spring bars but for bracelets with pressure pins you need something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Zacro-Watch-Remover-Repair-Watchmakers/dp/B01E4X06HA/

I terminated them just behind the cage using clips like these, and cut the excess lace off

https://amzn.com/B00JOMBZQ8

A local jewelry store will be able to do it for cheap or if you want to do it yourself with this tool

Tuck into the shoes or get these- https://smile.amazon.com/No-Tie-Shoelace-Locks-Completes/dp/B00JOMBZQ8?sa-no-redirect=1

You can also hide the bows behind the tongue, which is what I do with stans. Lace all the way up to the top, poke the tongue through the last and second to last eyelets.

We use these: http://www.amazon.com/Sole-Matrix-Sneaker-Balls-Pack/dp/B003IJ6HFM

This

Thank me later

I use one of these.

I use Kiwi suede protector for suede shoes. Test on discrete area to check if the suede color changes, then spray whole shoe. Reapply infrequently (I use it every 5-6 weeks).

https://www.amazon.com/1-8mm-Release-Spring-Cylindrical-Button/dp/B00Q7XE866

probably cheaper ones available. Just google for "buy quick release spring bars"

Here is the desktop version of your link

http://www.amazon.com/Kiwi-Suede-Protector-4-25oz/dp/B001333OZQ

Suede Eraser

Those rubber bands are gonna bend your cards and press dents into them. Try getting some of these https://www.amazon.com/Crystal-Hinged-Plastic-Trading-Storage/dp/B005FSWSZM/ref=zg_bs_2358923011_12?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=295Q11P414JD6MYB5YY9 (Probs cheaper at your local card shop)

https://www.amazon.com/No-Tie-Shoelace-Locks-Completes/dp/B00JOMBZQ8

This $15 watch box from Amazon.

• Norse Projects merino cable-knit socks in olive drab and shitake, and wool/nylon blend socks in grey melange and cacao.
  
  
• Big ol' tub of Venetian shoe cream
  
  
• 3 horse hair brushes from Kiwi (a little overkill)
  
  
• Gray pants

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00A6GAT0Y/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1&pldnSite=1

I'd go with saddle soap, inexpensive, leather specific, and leaves no residue. For conditioning you may want to be more careful as many of them leave a residue which could prove to be slick.

The quick release springs themselves seem to be a standard item and are available on Amazon. But the band has to be compatible with them. A standard leather band can probably be easily modified, a steel band will be a bit more difficult.

I usually use a waterproofing spray on suede or synthetic shoes. Here is one example, though I can't really recommend a specific brand. Shoe stores usually sell these sprays.

Generally, avoid water/snow/salt. Specifically, spray them with this every now and again.

Selling Sand Suede Clarks Bushacre IIs Size 10

Condition: Worn once for 15 mins, slightly too big for me. Kiwi Suede protector sprayed already

Picture if requested

Price: $70 Shipped OBO

Will include the rest of the Kiwi suede protector

This one. However, none of my suede shoes have gotten dirty yet so I can't tell you if it helped or not. :( Just bought it based on reviews.

I'm just learning about this stuff, but you can waterproof your suede shoes. Water and suede really doesn't mix well.

Getting a suede brush to get the dirt off wouldn't hurt but make sure you only brush in one direction because I've heard you can mess up the suede otherwise.