My friend and I just finished building his first PC, and went the route of using AIO coolers for both his CPU (i7-8700k) and GPU (ASUS GTX 1080 Turbo).

This was built in an NZXT S340 Elite case, which had some radiator restrictions that you do not have, so you have a little more leeway on your cooler choice, but the overall results are phenomenal.

For CPU, we decided on the NZXT Kraken X62 280mm AIO cooler. The performance is one of the best for overall cooling performance, and is a breeze to install, plus he really liked the design of the unit. This was mounted in the front of the case as an intake with a push fan config (we had no choice on this due to the case, but I don't know that we would have done it differently regardless). The EVGA CLC 280mm is another very good 280mm cooler, but this comes entirely down to design preference. There are plenty of other options if you prefer a 360mm rad instead, but you can do the research and decide which one you like best (IMO 280mm is the best for noise/cooling performance). Ultimately almost all AIO coolers are rebranded Asetek coolers anyway, so they have the same overall design with different names and RGB LEDs.

For the GPU, we removed the factory blower fan and installed an NZXT Kraken G12 bracket, and paired it with a Corsair H55 120mm AIO. One thing to be careful of, the G12 is mostly universal, however some aftermarket cards have different PCB layouts for the board itself, and the G12 MAY NOT WORK for your card. If you can look up your card and send me the info, I should be able to look up the PCB on google and determine if it will work for your card. Since you have more options on your install, you could instead change this to a 140mm radiator for better cooling performance, however this is not necessary unless you want very significant overclocks, and will be more expensive depending on the unit you choose. One note for the GPU portion of this swap, the AIO swap MUST be installed in one of two ways. Either 1) you use fan headers on the motherboard to control GPU temps, or 2) you must buy this adapter to control the AIO fan from your GPU. If you choose option 2, you can also buy this fan splitter to power the G12 fan (its a constant RPM fan, no speed control) as well. We personally went with option 2 and added the splitter as well to control everything from the GPU fan header using MSI afterburner (IMO, it is definitely the best way to go). The 120mm AIO was mounted in the rear as an exhaust with a push fan configuration.

Some other related notes: 1) Many individuals will shout from the rooftops that you MUST buy VRAM heatsinks because the G12's fan will not be able to adequately cool them. We did not buy heatsinks, and have zero temp issues at a +600 memory OC. I personally do not feel this to be necessary, but heatsinks are cheap, so if you want to be absolutely sure, feel free to grab them. 2) If you choose to go with a different GPU cooler, say like the NZXT Kraken X42 with RGB lighting or pump speed control, MAKE SURE you have enough USB headers on your motherboard! Most likely you will need to grab a internal USB hub like this to run them all.

I do not have any pictures on hand right now, but there are multiple Youtube videos you can look at to see what it all looks like and entails, just search for "Kraken G12" and you will see multiple videos detailing install procedures, cooling performance, and how it looks.

If you have any questions, feel free to reach out. My friend has never been happier with his build, and the performance numbers are outstanding.

Howdy. I'm not a buildsmith, so I'll defer to /u/transam617's expertise. Just some additional food for thought here: I noticed you mentioned that you'd like a quiet build. The strength of your preference, your definition of quiet, and the background noise in your environment will all play a part in how relevant the following advice is.

The fans in the case that /u/transam617 specified will run at 1200 RPM, and the ASRock motherboard may or may not have the ability to control their speed. They're three-pin voltage-only fans. Other fans have a fourth PWM pin (pulse-width modulation) that allows very fine control of fan speed, which is what almost all motherboards support on their four-pin fan headers for speed control. Some motherboard manufacturers support voltage speed control of three-pin fans, but the ASRock manual doesn't make it clear that they can do this. They say vaguely that you can set "fan speed and voltage" which hopefully is true. ASUS definitely supports voltage speed control and will even automatically calculate the voltage range by lowering voltage and measuring fan speed until it cuts out, and then setting a threshold so you don't stall the fans. Unfortunately ASUS' B350 board has some pretty gnarly reviews out there at the moment, there seem to be a lot of firmware/BIOS related issues with the board, so it's a bit hard to recommend for the moment.

So, with the ASRock board, if you find that the case fans are too loud for you consider a fan speed controller like this https://www.amazon.co.uk/Zalman-Fan-Speed-Controller-FANMATE-2/dp/B000292DO0/ - Just mount it with some foam tape internally and dial in the speed you want. Or, mount it through / onto the rear of the case. It's not pretty, but it's cheap!

Couple that with a fan splitter and you'll have speed control over your case fans so you can scale them back to 700-800 RPM where they will be virtually inaudible.

I also noticed that transam617 recommended a 7200 RPM HDD. That drive is a great value, but 7200 RPM drives can be a bit noisy. If you're very noise sensitive, consider a 5400RPM drive instead. You can get a WD Blue drive for an extra 4 quid. The drive will be slower, but you'll be keeping the games you play on the SSD and the speed hit isn't that noticeable for your mass storage tasks (dormant games, photos, videos, etc). The noise reduction is definitely worth it.

Last, the PSU. That model has a fan that can peak out above 2000 RPM, which would be loud. It does have fan control, and should idle at a much lower speed. The reviews I see for the unit don't discuss fan speed, so it's probably not an issue at normal loads. As a fan with a 2000 RPM peak it may not be capable of going much slower that 800-1000 RPM, which is still noticeable. TBD.

In my most recent silent build, the HDDs were the loudest item in the whole build after I got all my fans under control.

So, all this considered, if I wanted to take the other build and make it silent, I'd swap the HDD and PSU and add a CPU cooler as follows. I'd then be above your budget, but this is just for your consideration so you can see where you might be headed if you want extreme quiet. If you build Transam's build and find something is noisy, we can easily help you determine which part it is that you can hear and we can provide guidance to help you achieve the sound level you desire.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

Type|Item|Price

----|:----|:----
CPU | AMD - Ryzen 5 1600 3.2GHz 6-Core Processor | £190.83 @ Ebuyer
CPU Cooler | Cooler Master - Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler | £25.66 @ Novatech
Motherboard | ASRock - AB350M-HDV Micro ATX AM4 Motherboard | £64.38 @ CCL Computers
Memory | *Corsair - Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3200 Memory | £124.58 @ Aria PC
Storage | *Samsung - 850 EVO-Series 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | £76.80 @ Amazon UK
Storage | Western Digital - Blue 1TB 3.5" 5400RPM Internal Hard Drive | £44.55 @ Eclipse Computers
Video Card | Asus - GeForce GTX 1060 6GB 6GB Dual Video Card | £235.09 @ More Computers
Case | Fractal Design - Define C ATX Mid Tower Case | £63.39 @ CCL Computers
Power Supply | EVGA - SuperNOVA G2 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply | £83.99 @ Ebuyer
Operating System | Microsoft - Windows 10 Pro Full - USB 32/64-bit | £39.00 @ Amazon UK
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total | £948.27
| *Lowest price parts chosen from parametric criteria |
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-06-14 11:09 BST+0100 |

-ITX

This manipulation will make your laptop a bit more bumpy chassis-wise and I won't take any responsibility if something goes wrong :P (Don’t forget to think about the warranty)

I am a lurker but I can really understand your feelings since I was in the same situation (same laptop) before however, I was able to fix this, let me explain How to avoid TDP-downs:

After dealing with multiple slim laptops and also thanks Reddit for some data, I have concluded that these are the main types of throttling linked with the thermals:

• CPU throttling (duh), however my laptop goes to 10W whereas the CPU was only around at the early eighties °C at 15W, and the laptop itself has another more powerful fan state at this temperature, so I think it is supposed to handle that CPU heat (these fans suck tbh).
  My laptop was not thermal throttling but power limiting (except at TDP-high but that’s not the issue) so I skipped it.
  
  
• software throttling, setting at High performance plan and removing + disabling the reinstallation of the Intel Dynamic Platform & Thermal Framework Driver should be enough (no, it won’t wreck your PC, but staying at High Performance will make your laptop uncomfortable because of the heat).
  
  
• VRM throttling, now this one is a little bit more implicit, but it is also very important, I am not an electronic expert and feel free to correct me, but I think that when it overheats, the component won’t be able to deliver as much power to the CPU thus the TDP-down. (Did Intel specified a TDP-down for mobile processors because slim laptops have generally a hard time cooling the CPU and VRMs at the same time?)
  
  To begin the fix you will need to buy these thermal pads (personally I bought two):
  https://www.amazon.com/Thermal-Grizzly-Minus-High-Performance/dp/B00ZJS8RWQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1526667081&sr=8-1&keywords=TG-MP8-120-20-10-1R
  
  So, I have sacrificed my laptop to check it, and after removing the black foil there are indeed some VRMs that are not under the heat sink. I have a very empirical way to find them (I don’t have a thermal camera unfortunately).
  Launch TS Bench from ThrottleStop and then on the back of the computer, near the CPU, try to find very hot components (the ones that are barely too hot to touch) then place 3-4 thermal pads on them so that it can reach the chassis of the laptop.
  
  Of course this is not enough, and that’s where the cooler joins in, I found two coolers that are really useful:
  
  
• a cross-flow fan:
  https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01F3971YK/ref=twister_B01F3971X6?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
  
  https://i.imgur.com/8IpUd4b.jpg
  
  The cross-flow fan is easier and cheaper to use however it is not as efficient as the next one, the laptop will be able to, at long term and at least, use 14W at 24°C ambient temperature. However, I would still buy it for travels etc.
  
  
• a DIY powerful fan stand:
  
  This one is not hard to do but requires some money but I suppose that budget won’t be your issue since the laptop itself is quite expensive already.
  
  For this you will need:
  
  
• a 3-pin 12V fan with good air pressure:
  https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-NF-A14-industrialPPC-2000-140x140x25mm-2000rpm/dp/B00KESSI2A/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1526667148&sr=1-1&keywords=B00KESSI2A
  
  
• fan grills:
  https://www.amazon.com/140mm-Black-Grill-Guard-screws/dp/B01M2YI7BM/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1526667587&sr=1-3&keywords=fan+grill+140mm
  
  
• 5V to 12V USB to 3-pin:
  https://www.amazon.com/FAN2USB-12V-USB-Converting-Adapter/dp/B00MNB40ZU/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1526667190&sr=8-1&keywords=FAN2USB
  
  
• a stand with hole:
  https://www.amazon.com/Urbo-Adjustable-Heat-Vent-Elevate-Notebooks/dp/B01I0KN91I/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1526667370&sr=8-2&keywords=urbo+stand
  
  The hole is where we are going to place the fan and the height will help the fan to get more air, so that is very important.
  
  
• a cable tie set to attach the fan on the stand:
  https://www.amazon.com/Uxcell-Nylon-Resistant-Cable-White/dp/B00UJ95URU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1526667534&sr=8-1&keywords=Cable+Tie+Set+400
  
  Optionally you can also buy a voltage regulator to turn it off but yeah unplugging the USB do the work too haha:
  https://www.amazon.com/Zalman-Fan-Speed-Controller-FANMATE-2/dp/B000292DO0/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1526667258&sr=1-1&keywords=FANMATE2
  
  After it is done and placed your laptop on it, you should be able to play all night without seeing the laptop throttling.
  
  I tried to exceed the 15W, but this step is probably impossible, with the cooling I was able to stay a few more seconds at almost 30W but even after dealing with max TDP via Throttlestop, it throttles down. I just think that HP has limited its device to 15W for long term state (no matter the thermals or power) which is quite understandable but still it would be nice to unlock it.
  I have for instance set the TDP max at 16W with ThrottleStop (so just a little bit more) and it still throttles after around 30 seconds to 15W with the cooler, I don’t know if I will give up but with -100mV undervolting I am able to reach STABLE 2.8ghz at full load, at 15W, so it is not that bad for a convertible 13-inch laptop.
  
  I would like to post more photos however I am on a trip for months, so I can't right now.
  
  Feel free to ask me any questions!
  
  EDIT: formatting because 1st post
  
  EDIT 2:
  
  Here is how I placed my thermal pads:
  https://i.imgur.com/0fHQTIl.jpg
  
  I have also stressed my laptop for almost 15min non-stop with my cross-flow fan, here are the results showing a stable performance:
  
  
• Start:
  https://i.imgur.com/h9Tq2fU.png
  
  
• End:
  https://i.imgur.com/j5P8osg.png

Just jumping in to say I've found myself in the same boat. I'm designing an acrylic case for my printer and figured "Why not add a vent while I'm at it!" And down the rabbit hole I fell...

A few things I've learned in my modest 24 hours of research:

• Carbon - Like the Molekule article mentions in their recommendations, a carbon sponge filter isn't going to cut it. You need a large amount of carbon granules (5lb+) and ideally the air should have time to circulate over the carbon for effective adsorption
  
  
• HEPA - HEPA filters can capture particles smaller than 300nm, thanks to Brownian motion, so will definitely do their part in your filtering system
  
  
• Pre-Filter - A pre-filter at your air-intake point will help capture the bigger particles, lengthening the HEPA and carbon lifespan
  
  
• Fan - You need a pretty powerful fan to properly exhaust your enclosure and get the air to properly move through all of the filters. Fans are rated in CFM units (cubic feet per minute), and the cheap ones sold at your favourite electronics store are probably in the 1-10 CFM range. I've been looking at this one that has 158.5 CFM: https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00KFCRF1A/?coliid=I2I9OJ1U1BDXZC&colid=2514DQPRDMWKO&psc=0&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it
  
  What I'd really like to figure out is how to test for all of these particles at home. I see a lot of posts on here saying "I use a carbon filter and it works great!" but how do we know? Sure, a cheap carbon filter can reduce the odour, but I'd love to be able to do occasional tests to make sure my filter is working effectively. Will post back here if I find anything on that :)
  
  Update Just read about a study that showed recirculating the air in your enclosure helps reduce emissions even more. Seems logical, since the more times the air is pushed through the filters, the more likely they are to catch things - but great to have confirmation on that. Will also have the added benefit of containing the heat, not having to pull colder air into the enclosure while it's running. Source: https://3dprint.com/241787/should-vented-enclosures-become-a-mandatory-safety-standard-for-fff-3d-printers/
  
  My plan now is essentially to have the pre-filter, fan, and HEPA filter mounted on the side of the enclosure, then a hose down to a large box of carbon under the desk, and another hose out of that box feeding back into the other side of the enclosure. I'll likely run the fan on a lower speed while printing, then crank it up to 100% when the print is done and starts to cool - and if I can hook it up to the printer board and have the gcode control that, all the better

Ok!

So it's a late 2018 (December) Ender 3 Pro. I got it from Mech Solutions. They have been super helpful with some warranty stuff. (Magnetic bed delaminated and heat break/throat tube was broken.) https://www.mechestore.com/collections/ender-3-pro

Galactic Empire gears here:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3422334 (I remixed this one!)
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3005278

The braided cable stuff is from Amazon, here: https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B071WF5NTN/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I bought three sizes, 1/4", 1/2", and 3/4". I hated the Pi camera cable, luckily it fits perfectly in the 1/2" stuff. I found uses for all three sizes in different locations. The 1/4" looks cool on the bowden tube. I used heat shrink (or electrical tape) at the ends.

Hotend cooler is Hero Me with a velocity stack (stack purely for my own entertainment)
Hero Me: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3182917 - I used the stock 4010 blower version in the end. I was going to do the dual 5015 mod but the two Amazon fans I got were both defective.
Fan is a Noctua 4020 - from here: https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B071W93333/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07__o00_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1
** tech note - I added a 12v system running in parallel with the OEM 24v Ender system - more below
Velocity stack:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2211780

Someone spotted it, on the left I have a Raspberry Pi 3B+ running OctoPi (Octoprint):
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B07BD3WHCK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
and a 3.5" touchscreen TFT LCD:
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B07KLDKM5D/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
and a Pi compatible camera:
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B0759GYR51/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
with longer cables:
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B07DNYM8KC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02__o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The camera needed a mount:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2886101
and an off-brand sleeve:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2994762

The Pi needed a mount too, and I found one I love that just happened to fit the screen I bought:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2530258
** user note - this thing is massive, and tricky to print. Worth it, though.

OH. THIS IS A MUST:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2943218 xD

All metal extruder, conveniently in red, from here: https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B07JVJWC5B/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
** tech note: if nothing else, do this upgrade. This, and the one just above it. Mine was under extruding, and I poured hours into trying to calibrate/test/bla bla bla... it ended up being a broken heat break and crappy plastic extruder.

Filament guide (top rail)
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3003807
At extruder:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3303562

Z-Axis bar cable management:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2761965
** user note: this is one of my favorites!!!!! I covered it in LEDs, white for the bed, and red for the wall/bowden tube!

Ok, so, something that made getting good fans difficult is the Ender 3 uses 24v fans (except the power suppy, it uses a 12v fan. Bonus.)
To get some 12v power, I used a buck converter to step 24v down to 12v from here:
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B01FQH4M82/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07__o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
and basically I run all the fun stuff off it.
JST and XT60 connectors are all from www.hobbyking.com. Same with 22AWG three wire servo wire, super handy. I already had this stuff kicking around, but hobbyking is good if you need this stuff.
The PSU has some open ports, I added another XT60 cable with 24v service. I made it the same as the OEM, and they are backwards compatible and nothing will fry. One of them goes to my buck converter, the other to the Ender main board.
** tech note: I used a 3.5A BEC from hobbyking to power the Pi, off the 12v side of the buck converter. I ended up cutting the power supply cable that came with the Pi (and added JST connectors to the whole thing so I could reuse it one day.) The BEC steps the voltage down to 5.1v from 12v. 3.5A has been plenty. I think it might use .8A with my giant RGB keyboard plugged into it.

This is super worth it, a must do. https://photos.app.goo.gl/AEXNqvTXE5ZZhnhi8

Oh, the nice little platform the buck converter and Pi cooling fan is sitting on is this thing:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2539545

more below: (above?)

Except a lot good, high end components come with extra RGB. Furthermore, RGB can be as cheap as you want it, or as pricey.

You can a set of deepcool RGB fans for cheaper then a set of Noctua's or other high end brand. The dirty secret of PC building is that the most good products work almost as well as the top tier, and the 2-4 degree difference in your case between deep cool fans and noctua's is not going to matter much.

Team's old DELTA RGB SSD (OOS and production now, also don't buy the Kingston RGB SSD it sucks really bad performance wise) was only slightly more expensive and usually price matched close enough to other SSDs with DRAM caches. Currently the delta max is OOS as it a new product, so prices are dumb, but no one is buying it at those prices, and in like a month or 2 it will fall also once stock catches up to demand

There is always a cheap brand of RGB Ram on sale for comparable to normal ram. For most of September, OLOy RGB ram was the cheapest ram that was DDR4-3600 cas latency 18 for Ryzen. It was funny watching the butthurt among hardcore price to performance people who hate RGB be put in the boat where RGB was the cheapest and best option. Last year it was V-color Skywalker RGB. And ADATA's Official store at Rakuten always has sales on RGB Ram for usually the same price as non-RGB ram of equal quality.

Cheap LED strips can be had for like $15.

More so then that, chinese knock off RGB fans can be had for like $15 that don't sync to your MOBO, and use a remote control. You could probably do a fully kitted RGB system using non sync external controller based fans and strips for like $20-30.

Another point is that RGB is very easy to add later. Buy price to performance non-RGB ram now, and you can add RGB dummy ram to fill your empty ram slots. Lighting strips can be easily added. You can buy a good (don't buy kingston) RGB SSD to add storage later on once prices come down. Fans are always easy to add later. So if you have 1200 and want insane price to performance on a 3700x 5700xt build, you can max your performance now, and then slowly add RGB later when you have the budget. A $40 corsair dummy ram set is a lot easier to justify in 2-3 months when your savings have had time to recover. $15 RGB strips can be got for 1 night cooking at home instead of eating out.

Finally, PCs are built on tiers. Someone building a build like the this at a pretty hard budget of 1150.

PCPartPicker Part List

Type|Item|Price

----|:----|:----
CPU | AMD Ryzen 5 3600 3.6 GHz 6-Core Processor | $194.89 @ Amazon
Motherboard | ASRock X570 Phantom Gaming 4 ATX AM4 Motherboard | $148.99 @ Newegg
Memory | G.Skill Ripjaws V 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3600 Memory | $69.99 @ Newegg
Storage | Intel 660p Series 1.02 TB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive | $99.99 @ Newegg
Video Card | ASRock Radeon RX 5700 XT 8 GB CHALLENGER D OC Video Card | $402.98 @ Newegg
Case | Phanteks ECLIPSE P350X ATX Mid Tower Case | $67.99 @ Newegg
Power Supply | Corsair RMx (2018) 650 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply | $89.99 @ Newegg
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total (before mail-in rebates) | $1104.82
| Mail-in rebates | -$30.00
| Total | $1074.82
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2019-10-29 09:15 EDT-0400 |

Has $70 extra spend. There really isn't anywhere to put the extra money. $70 extra won't get a better CPU, and it won't get a better GPU. You could buy additional storage but why, storage is so, so easy to add later. Arguably a better case but the P350x is really nice for the price and H500s cost notably more. You could get a 3700x if you bought the cheapest 5700 and no RGB, but then you have to mod it as the cheapest 5700 sucks is not recommended without mods.

You could get a better MOBO and still trick out your system with RGB within that budget:

PCPartPicker Part List

Type|Item|Price

----|:----|:----
CPU | AMD Ryzen 5 3600 3.6 GHz 6-Core Processor | $194.89 @ Amazon
Motherboard | Asus PRIME X570-P ATX AM4 Motherboard | $159.99 @ Newegg
Memory | OLOy WarHawk RGB 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3600 Memory | $82.99 @ Newegg
Storage | Intel 660p Series 1.02 TB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive | $99.99 @ Newegg
Video Card | ASRock Radeon RX 5700 XT 8 GB CHALLENGER D OC Video Card | $402.98 @ Newegg
Case | Phanteks ECLIPSE P350X ATX Mid Tower Case | $67.99 @ Newegg
Power Supply | Corsair RMx (2018) 650 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply | $89.99 @ Newegg
Case Fan | Deepcool RF 120 (3 in 1) 56.5 CFM 120 mm Fans | $32.99 @ Amazon
Custom | Extended Desktop LED Strip Lights - 6.6FT Computer Desk LED Strip Lights Using Extended Card Sync With Inside Computer LED Lights for Airgoo Computer LED Full Kit/ASUS AURA SYNC/MSI Mystic Light Sync | $14.99 @ Amazon
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total (before mail-in rebates) | $1176.80
| Mail-in rebates | -$30.00
| Total | $1146.80
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2019-10-29 09:17 EDT-0400 |

And still within Budget.

We have RGB RAM, RGB Case, RGB strips, and LED Fans all compatible with AURA sync.

We plug the fans into the 12 V RGB headers, then the RGB strips come with spiltter cables we use for the Case RGB and the Strips, and the Ram works out of box. Boom, tricked out RGB system. For a few extra, we can add 5v RGB fans if we wanted.

NEXT we can even do it with lower quality builds:

On that note, even lower priced builds can benefit from RGB, Someone doing a price to performance $900 build would have money left over for RGB.

We buy a MOBO with better RGB support then a Tomahawk that can still handle a 3600 or even a 3700x or possible 3800x at stock according to the AM4 vcore ratings list.
and Hardware unboxed review where they discuss it's finned heat sink.

It does get a little harder, as you could add a reference 5700 with the terrible blower if you want instead of RGB. It would be up to the person buying.

Even at 750 you can add decent RGB to a build if you know where to save money. Although, again, it gets harder as you can add a 3600 or reference 5700 and it would be $30 more, so if you have a hard 750 budget, the tier would mean you have extra for RGB, or you would need to break your 750 hard cap to get better performance. Still no reason at least RGB RAM couldn't be added. OR cheap LED strip or both.

These are the changes I would make:

• The CPU cooler we discussed
  
  
• faster RAM
  
  
• A cheaper SSD that will still be more than good enough
  
  
• The Powercolor card that you picked is a hair better than the Gigabyte. But the Gigabyte one is $30 cheaper. Personally, I don't think the extra 1-2fps is worth $30, but if you do, then get the Powercolor card.
  
  
• 750W is kinda overkill. Frankly 650W is more than you would ever need also, but this way you're saving $40.
  
  
• For fans, I take a "wait and see approach". Don't buy additional fans until after you have built your PC and used it for a few days. They might end up needing them, you might not. You can always buy them later if you think you need them. Also, $65 is a lot to spend on fans. The Silent Wings 3 are excellent fans. If you want to absolute quietest available, beQuiet and Noctua are the way to go. However, keep in mind that there are fans that are mostly as good and significantly cheaper. The Arctic F12 and P12 series are pretty good budget fans: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07HC782D5/ You get 5 of them for under $30. As long as you run of them under 800rpm, they are very quiet and 3 of them in the front weill move a ton of air.
  
  
• Basically, if you want the premium beQuiet fans, go for it. But think long and hard if it's the best use of your money.
  
  

• People have good things to say about the monitor you picked. If that's definitely what you want, go for it. Personally, I have a bias for IPS panels. I wouldn't use anything else at this point. So I would go with a different 144Hz monitor.
  

  
  

  PCPartPicker Part List
  

  
  

  Type|Item|Price
  

  ----|:----|:----
  CPU | AMD Ryzen 5 3600 3.6 GHz 6-Core Processor | $194.00 @ Amazon
  CPU Cooler | Scythe Mugen 5 Rev. B 51.17 CFM CPU Cooler | $44.49 @ Amazon
  Motherboard | MSI B450 TOMAHAWK MAX ATX AM4 Motherboard | $114.99 @ Amazon
  Memory | G.Skill Ripjaws V 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3600 Memory | $69.98 @ Amazon
  Storage | HP EX920 512 GB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive | $62.99 @ Newegg
  Video Card | Gigabyte Radeon RX 5700 XT 8 GB GAMING OC Video Card | $403.98 @ Newegg
  Case | Fractal Design Meshify C ATX Mid Tower Case | $89.99 @ Walmart
  Power Supply | Corsair RMx (2018) 650 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply | $94.99 @ Amazon
  Monitor | LG 27GL650F-B 27.0" 1920x1080 144 Hz Monitor | $249.99 @ Amazon
  | Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
  | Total | $1325.40
  | Generated by PCPartPicker 2019-11-22 17:43 EST-0500 |

If you plug the 4 pin for the CPU cooler into the 3 pin plug labeled, "pump fan" I believe (I have an R5 as well) it should simply run the fan @ 100% all the time. I suppose this is less than ideal, but definitely one option. I think the CPU fan is less audible being in the middle of the unit.

You could also get a 4 pin splitter like this: https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-NA-SYC1-Accessory-4-pin-Y-Cables/dp/B00KG8K5CY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1505845131&sr=8-1&keywords=noctua+splitter

I own this one, and it works quite nicely. I don't use it for your scenario, but none the less it would give you some control over your CPU fan speed. Granted, whichever 4 pin you split it with (Top fan, or Front fan) would be the same speed as well.

The only other option might be to download a 3rd party fan controller from somewhere. I tried one, and it was more complicated than I was interested in @ the time. The AWCC is really nice, but kind of BS that there is no option for fan speed control w/ a K CPU if not using a liquid cooler. There are certainly air coolers that can keep temps @ bay if not attempting to OC @ the max.

Speaking of which, what CPU cooler are you using? What are you trying to OC it to? Have you tried downloading the OC application from Alienware? Perhaps it has an option for air fans? Or is that already with your version of Command Center?

You can always do the math by figuring out the current draw on the fans. But usually 2 fans is recommended max, 3 if you do the math.

The reason you want only one fan plugged into the CPU header isn't because of current draw though. Many mobos have built in protection that if there is no fan connected to the CPU header, or if that fan fails, it shuts down the rig. If you have two fans plugged into your CPU header and your CPU fan itself fails but the other one doesn't, the mobo wont know that.

So yeah, you are likely just fine with 2 intake 2 exhaust. That's about average.

That said, I have a different recommendation for your fan config.

That's a nice case, decent fan mounts.

Don't do two top fans over one top, one rear.
The reason being you want the rear fan to pull the air across your mobo and components. Having only top fans will direct the air path more up.

That's not to say you wont have ok airflow, but youd be better off having 1 top and 1 rear.

So id suggest putting 2x 140mm intake in the front. 1x 120mm exhaust in the rear. 1x 120mm exhaust in the top, likely in the rear of the two spots. You can try the more forward spot, but by putting it in the rear top spot, it and the rear fan will work together to have a nice airflow path across your mobo.

If you do not already have your fans, I would recommend the Corsair MLs. They are solid fans, actually good for static and airflow, and are rather quiet as they are mag lev motors. They are also PWM fans meaning you will have much finer control over them.

They can be had in pairs, 120mm pair is around $33, 140mm pair is around $40

You will also need a PWM fan splitter.

Here is one I recommend:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KG8K5CY/?tag=pcpapi-20

For the fans:

120mm pair

140mm pair

Also, those fans can be had in various LED colors if you prefer. Red, white, blue I believe.

Hey bud. I'm not in the growing business but I know a thing or two about PC fans.

Stacking fans increases the "static pressure" (with huge efficiency costs) which will only increase total air flow if there is high resistance to the air flow. It is the same thing as torque in an engine. We sometimes use this for thick radiators but otherwise it is a redundant idea.

Typically you are much better off upgrading the fan. There is a huge difference between different fans. Given your build context, I would recommend purchasing Noctua NF-A14 3000RPM IP67 fan.

Reasons:

1. Responds to voltage so lower voltage means slower speed - allowing you to control the airflow in your case.
   
   
2. High capacity - up to 269 cubic metres of air moved per hour.
   
   
3. High reliability in moist or humid conditions (such as your bucket) - 6 year warranty.
   
   
4. Quiet - one of the quietest fans commercially available and the most efficient in terms of noise/airflow.
   
   
5. Power efficient - triple phase motor design so that down-stepping the voltage will result in significant power savings.
   
   
6. Anti-vibration rubber mounts.
   
   
7. There's more, these are simply the best fans going around. They also come in a 120mm size if that is what you require. The smaller size produces less airflow than the 140mm ones I have recommended, however, they are otherwise practically identical.
   
   Edit: In response to common PM's - To vary the voltage (and thus fan speed and therfore the rate of airflow) you should purchase a fan controller which start at $10.

From Micro Center:

AMD Ryzen 3700X CPU - $329.99

ASRock B450M Pro4 motherboard - $24.99 after $50 combo discount

Crucial Ballistix Sport LT DDR4-3200 8GB memory X 2 - $65.98 after $12 combo discount

Inland Premium 1TB NVMe SSD - $107.99

EVGA GTX 1660 graphics card - $219.99 ($204.99 after $15 mail-in rebate)

PowerSpec 650 Watt 80 Plus Bronze ATX Semi-Modular power supply - $55.99

Thermaltake Versa H18 mATX case - $50.99

Total from Micro Center: $855.92 + $ 51.36 tax = $907.28 ($892.28 after mail-in rebate)

AOC C24G1 24" 1080P 144Hz FreeSync gaming monitor - $149.99 (optional)

You can get a 5% discount on all purchases at Micro Center or 6 months same as cash if you get a credit card from them.

From Amazon:

Arctic F12 PWM fan - $8.48

Redragon mechanical keyboard/gaming mouse/mousepad/headset combo - $40.79 (optional)

Grand total for PC: $892.28 + $8.48 = $900.76‬

The AMD Ryzen 3700X is currently the best CPU for combined gaming and streaming at its price range. I went with the 8 core 16 thread 3700X instead of the 6 core 12 thread 3600 for better streaming performance. The stock Cooler Master designed and built Wraith Prism CPU cooler which comes with the 3700X provides far more cooling performance than this low power CPU actually needs. It's the same cooler that comes with the higher power Ryzen 3900X. The new Ryzen 3000 CPUs do such a good job of automatic overclocking with Precision Boost 2 that manual overclocking is futile for most purposes.

The ASRock B450M Pro4 is a highly rated compact motherboard. It has 4 memory slots so you can easily add more memory later if needed to handle larger CAD models. Important: ask Micro Center to upgrade the BIOS for you before you leave the store so that this motherboard will be compatible with the 3700X.

High speed memory is important with Ryzen CPUs since the internal communication speed of the CPU is tied to memory speed through the Infinity Fabric. The Crucial Ballistix Sport LT 8GB DDR4-3200 is highly overclockable Micron E die memory at a better price than online because of the combo discount. Your local store currently has a slightly better price on the individual sticks than the two-pack.

The Inland Premium 1TB PCIe 3.0 x 4 NVMe SSD is built for Micro Center to their specifications. It's a high speed MLC NAND SSD with 600 TBW endurance at a good price. With your budget, I can't see going with a small SSD and a 1TB hard drive.

The EVGA GTX 1660 graphics card will provide more than enough performance for the games you mention. At competition low settings in Fortnite, even an RX 570 would be enough. I went with a more powerful but more expensive graphics card so you could have the best possible frame rates while having the option to turn up graphics settings in games.

The Power Spec 650W 80+ bronze semi-modular power supply is also built for Micro Center to their specifications. It's a solid unit with a 5 year warranty. It will provide more than enough power for this PC. I went with a semi-modular model to make it easier to achieve tidy cable management as viewed through the side window.

The Thermaltake Versa H18 mATX case is a well built case with good airflow. Since it only comes with a single fan in the rear, I've specified an additional fan for use as a front intake.

Micro Center gives you a 15 day return window on internal computer components, so be ready to build when purchasing. In my experience, they offer a very easy and helpful return process if you end up with a bad component.

Let me know your questions and comments.

The case that I recommend, the Fractal Design Define R4, is probably the best combination silence/cooling/layout/quality of any case that I've yet found.

Here are some temp/noise measurements: http://www.anandtech.com/show/6102/fractal-design-define-r4-case-review-evolution-not-revolution/5 - that whole review is very in depth and a good read if you have the time.

The R4 case will come with two case fans, but has room for five more. Grab two of these two packs: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B007RESG7G/ for some additional quiet cooling - and make sure that one of the fans goes on the side vent right next to the video cards, bringing fresh air to them.

And yes I'd be more than happy to look over any changes you have in mind :)

Edit

I forgot about the Nanoxia Deep Silence 2 case. It's great also - more focus on silence, and a great alternative to the Fractal R4. Check out the review: http://www.anandtech.com/show/6742/nanoxia-deep-silence-2-case-review-less-of-what-we-needed/6

Followup Some On Questions...

Specs:

• Intel Core i7 5930K
  
• 32GB DD4
  
• Nvidia TitanX Pascal
  
• Corsair 900D
  
  Yes my temps are on-point, two of these installed on the left and right sides on the PC book-shelf at the intake and exhaust points of the case.
  (https://www.amazon.com/AC-Infinity-AIRPLATE-Cooling-Cabinets/dp/B009CO543S)
  
  Yes the cabling is shite, if you only knew how many cables you cant see. I blame the vive.
  
  The chair was a must buy from a friends business closure, a very old roofing companies executive chair. I saw it, has to have it, extremely heavy.
  
  TV is 4k 60hz, I went for res-over-rate, don't judge me. The desk is actually quite deep so the sitting distance is quite comfortable imo.
  
  The side screen are 19" 4:3 and are connected to a separate PC as identified in the left bookcase. They are mainly to display the IP Cameras throughout the house, hence why a separate keyboard and mouse as they require independent control regardless of which PC is on/off.
  
  Yes the decor is dated, it's a 1978 home recently purchased, and this is the only room that she-who-shall-be-acknowledged is not allowed to touch.
  
  The other side of the room for those who wanted more, yes the original Nintendo still gets played.
  (http://imgur.com/a/SMJGj)
  
  Yes the vive cover has saved me from some aesthetic scratches, good value imo.
  
  Yes I have an xbox elite controller, no i don't own an xbox, yes its a great controller, very heavy.

If you're going for a sexy black and white scheme, I would highly recommend these parts: (This is just what I'd use, use your own judgment for these parts)

Motherboard: Gigabyte 990FX It has the color scheme and the best chipset AM3+ has to offer.

PSU: Silencer MK II 500W Again, we're going for looks here. This is a monochromatic PSU. It's not a SeaSonic or a Corsair, but it will look sleek in your build.

Fans for your Dark Knight: Corsair SP 120 HP You can change out the rings for white rings. The noise will be barely noticeable, but these are made for heatsinks.

Scythe Gentle Typhoons If you aren't a fan of Corsair fans, the other option is the Scythe Gentle Typhoons. They're highly praised by many due to it's "comfortable" air flow to noise ratio. Plus, they do look sleek when not moving.

Cases: Corsair offers many white cases with windows, retains build quality, offers great cable management, and is well respected by the community. Any case will suite this purpose such as the C70, the 600T, and the 500R. NZXT does have a couple of cases for the cheaper solution such as, 210.

Sucks about the fans. If you want something that moves an absolutely ridiculous amount of air, this Noctua fan is probably your best bet, with a price to match. There is also this slightly cheaper option made by Silverstone. One last option, if you're ok with a super thick 120mm fan, you can go for this $14 Koolance fan, which is probably the best option if money is a concern. There is also a bigger cousin that Koolance fan, for around $24, that moves air better than anything else I listed here, but is crazy loud.

Awesome that Thermalright is sending a new cooler. That's amazing customer service. You should switch out the mounting hardware and all, see if maybe something was just not within spec.

Intel was always going to say that, they have to stand behind their shitty thermal compound choice.

As far as whether you should have SL bin your chip or not, that's up to you. I personally enjoy the act of finding the maximum stable overclock; If you don't enjoy it, and feel like the extra $20 is worth not having to deal with it, then go for it. I personally feel like AVX offset is cheating, and I know that sentiment is shared by at least a couple of people, but that comes down to your personal workload too.

H500P Mesh news, in case you haven't seen it- https://youtu.be/iVrqEfDbCko?t=51

No news about H500M from what I've seen- Maybe consider contacting Coolermaster customer support about it. I'm loving my SE (and yeah, I ordered mine from that link). I'll let you know if I see a nice case go on a crazy sale.

Here is my Hotend setup

• I decided to run with the V6 Heavy Duty Mount. Had to use the "alt" version for the EZABL wing and flip it in my slicer to get it on the left side. The "alt" version makes it so it won't hit the gantry. The offsets are in the Thingiverse description that you will update with the "CUSTOM_PROBE" setting in the TH3D firmware you will have to update.
  
  
• For my parts fans, I wanted something highly reviewed, well priced and rated high. These 5015 fans come in a 2-pack for really good price and seem to be the best reviewed on Amazon. I went with them and noticed no whining or issues. No matter what, you will have a louder sound with blower fans (but not horrible, even with 2).
  
  
• For the hotend fan, I went with the Noctua 40mm x 20mm version (12v but Ender runs on 24v. Need a buck converter as described below). Sure, it's a bit pricier but it's quiet and pushes air enough to cool. Noctua has a great 6 year warranty on it and I'm sure the crappy chinese fans will have to be purchased multiple times within the same period, making it the same cost. Just make sure to get the PWM version instead of the FLX. No worries about cutting the cable because it comes with adaptors you can cut.
  
  If you decide to go with a regular 24v fan, you won't need the buck converter I talk about below.
  
  Unless you have a multimeter and want to mess around with getting the voltage right (which isn't hard), grab a buck converter like this with a display and hook up the 40mm fan to it. The little gold screw is for adjusting the voltage. If you run with the Noctua I mentioned above, you will have to set that to roughly 12v.
  
  Sooooooooo
  
  With all that being said, just splice all the wires and solder them or attach connectors that run from the fans to the wires. You are essentially replacing the fans with the same wires from the new fans. It's a pretty easy process. I want to say you definitely should plan out how you want to organize everything beforehand. Zipties are great. If you use the buck converter because you need 12v, the input side and output side are labeled on the converter so pay attention to that.
  

Container: Rubbermaid 20 gal Brute Bin

Lights: Kingbrite 60 W Quantum Board (if you want dimmable, ask for a dimmable driver like the HLG-60H-36B and a potentiometer)

Screws: You'll need lots of nuts, long screws, washers, and spacers to mount the board and PSU. First put the board on the lid and mark where to drill, then drill holes. Then put the power supply on the outside in the middle, mark and drill those hoses. Mount power supply and then flip lid over and mount the light, using long screws and nuts to hold it in place (the light should NOT touch the lid but be 1-2 inches from it, held in place by nuts). Drill small hole for power line, then connect. Finally, drill 3 inch hole for exhaust beside the light. You'll also need long screws with nuts to keep the fan and shrouds together. Be sure to use spaces anywhere the screw heads or nuts are touching the lid or the lights. For light spacers, I used rubber spaces between the nuts.

Cooling shrouds: 120mm Fan Duct Cooling Shroud to 4 Inch Vent Hose

90 degree 4 inch elbow for exhaust: 4 in. 90° Round Adjustable Elbow

4" to 3" reducer for exhaust: 4 in. to 3 in. Round Reducer

2x regular JB Weld to mount the reducer and 3 inch "trunk"

Fan: Delta AFB1212SHE-PWM 120mm x 38mm 4pin PWM+Tac Sensor Extreme Hi-speed 3700 RPM 151 CFM

Fan controller: Noctua NA-FC1 4-pin PWM Fan Controller

Fan power supply: LE Power Adapter, UL Listed, 3A, 120V AC to 12V DC Transformer, 36W Power Supply

Fan power supply adapter: CRJ Female DC Power Supply Plug to 12V Molex Power Adapter Cable

Fan molex adapter: Coolerguys Mini 3-4 pin Fan Adapter (Single)

2x ABS fan elbow (for "snout" intake): 3 in. ABS DWV 90-Degree Hub x Hub Long-Turn Elbow

Air filter for intake: 16.25 in. x 12.5 in. x 0.19 in. - 16.3 in. x .2 in. x 12.5 in. - CF300 Carbon Filter

Air filter (not pictured): VIVOSUN 4 Inch Air Carbon Filter Odor Control with Australia Virgin Charcoal for Inline Fan

Fan hose (not pictured): iPower GLDUCT4X8C 4 inch 8 feet Non-Insulated Flex Air Aluminum Foil

Watering device (not pictured): Janolia Automatic Irrigation Kit, Self Watering System, with Electronic Water Timer

Camera (not pictured): Wyze Cam 1080p HD Indoor Wireless Smart Home Camera with Night Vision (glue steel piece for magnetic base onto the upper side of the bin)

Notes: This design is very safe because it keeps all electronic components high in the bin. At the same time, using a battery powered watering system keeps you from requiring to ever open it. The lamp runs very cool. The PWM fan controller works well and keeping the air moving without using a lot of power (do NOT buy a cheap voltage modulator, I did first and it doesn't work nearly as well as the PWM controller). The Wyze cam is super cheap and lets you keep an eye on everything or make timelapses. Have fun growing your tomatoes!

Sorry, don't have any before / after shots. Yes, there is some reduction in need for supports, but certain models will still have to have them. Very effective overall, that's why they're so popular.

Get the LATEST Cura (3.2.1) as it has new supports that work much better. See this article: https://ultimaker.com/en/blog/52484-discover-ultimaker-cura-32

Here's my Fang setup:
https://imgur.com/dl26HJZ

I used this Fang:

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2473423

The front Hotend fan guard (Yellow) is this:

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2505568

The fans are one of the must do upgrades on the CR-10 series machines. They're cheap noisy things. Get good ones like Noctua.

Here's' my Hotend 40x10mm:

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B009NQLT0M


and my 40x20mm Parts fan on the Fang:
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B071W93333


Here's a discussion about fans:
https://www.reddit.com/r/CR10/comments/7rznq8/looking_for_best_5015_fan/

Another major (but cheap) mod is to put dampeners on the X & Y stepper motors. Big noise reduction, minor print quality improvement.

https://tiny-machines-3d.myshopify.com/collections/awesome-upgrades/products/stepper-dampener


But the biggest thing you can do to make your life with your new printer easier is to FLATTEN your bed. NOT level, FLATTEN.

These are precision machines, but they need some tuning up to work right.

/u/beachandbyte is right, you need to print some bed adjustment knobs:


https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2534990

Here's a post about Flattening the bed (look for my comment):

https://www.reddit.com/r/CR10/comments/7rpq2x/can_i_simulate_a_print_without_damaging_the/

Two other critical things - First, if you haven't done so, go over every screw and bolt and snug them up, don't forget the hotend, you have to remove the fan cover, two screws on the left.

Second, you must get those black plastic rollers setup right. They are purposely left loose during shipping, and most people adjust them wrong.

See this thread for how to adjust them properly:

https://www.reddit.com/r/CR10/comments/7s1ych/maintenance/

Well, you've got some work to do, stop reading Reddit and get to work! LOL :-)

Let us know how the battle goes, K?

PuterPro

You're the man but you already know that. For those that don't know he's sorting (mythbusting) 60 pages worth of info on non-married batteries in a dual setup. I hope it's BS so the 7+ year debate will end.

I don't know if you improved the crazy ghetto fan setup yet but I have some extra high quality 120mm fans if you need them. If I remember correctly you had a hub with tons of 80mm fans all over the place. I'd love to see that picture again if you have it because that was awesome.

If that's the case you should reach out to the public because this is what you really need and besides making life easier it would help data: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00G05A2MU

It comes with an extra USB port and If I think you can daisy chain 8 of them. I got it for my router so when I throw Tomato's firmware and overclock it more than my 2500k it stays ice cold.

Are you removing a case side and letting an external fan sitting on the floor blow air into the case? If so that's okay, but maybe make your components dusty faster.

About better case fans, please keep in mind improving case fans can only do so much to increase airflow to GPU, so don't get your expectations too high about how much cooler/quieter your GPU will become. If you really want a quiet GPU, you should have gotten a GPU designed with big heatsink and good fans, then it could be silent or almost silent by itself.

If you have PWM 4-pin fan headers, I think Corsair ML120 and ML140 push a bit more air than Noctua equivalent for the same noise level, but if you don't have PWM 4-pin fan headers, the Corsair ML's can make a lot of noise because of their magnetic bearing not working properly. Also ML's seems to be quite bad pushing air directly downwards and make a lot of noise positioned that way for me, in case you have an airflow setup that requires intake from the top or exhaust into the bottom of your case.

ML's can be bought in 2-packs for cost-savings, but the 2-pack versions lack anti-vibration pads, so IMO it is worth it to get anti-vibration screws like https://www.amazon.com/Pieces-Rubber-Vibration-Flexible-Mount/dp/B00VRB3PJY/ or https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-NA-SAV2-Chromax-Anti-Vibration-Mount/dp/B018T3826S/ .

Y splitter cables if you don't have enough PWM headers on motherboard for all your case fans. https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-NA-SYC1-Accessory-4-pin-Y-Cables/dp/B00KG8K5CY/

If you decide to go Noctua, they are a bit more expensive than ML's, but come with anti-vibration parts. They also come in 3 pin and 4 pin versions, let me know if you need advice on which fans to get, and tell me where you would place them, i.e. case, heatsink/radiator. You can't go wrong with Noctua unless you hate their color scheme, really top notch quality with good accessories like anti-vibration screws and low noise resistor adapters.

If you want more affordable quiet fans, there are some options that are cheaper for similar or just slightly worse performance, but me personally, I recommend going for really good case fans, fluid dynamic bearing fans can last 10-20+ years of continuous use no problem and should follow you for many computer builds. I have tried a few other brands, and personally I am a big fan of Cougar Vortex fans that have built-in anti-vibration pads, $12 for 120mm, $18 for 140mm, and I think Fractal Venturi perform very similarly.

And remember to use motherboard to control your PWM fans, maybe set them to 1000 RPM and then raise them up or down as needed to make sure they aren't too loud themselves and to make sure there is enough airflow for GPU fans to not be loud.

Do you have a cable box or any other device that makes heat 24/7? If so, you might consider wiring up the fans to run 24/7. That's also the simplest way to wire them. Lower temperatures are good for electronic longevity. Fans wear out in a few years, but are cheap to replace compared to a PS4 or receiver.

If you want to trigger them off your receiver, that's pretty easy to do. Most likely your receiver can't power the fans directly (most 12V trigger outputs are 200-500mA output). Some receivers have a switched 120V outlet on the back, which makes this really easy, you just plug the fans in.

Fans can draw anywhere from 160mA (0.16A) to 600mA+ (0.6A)
The Antec fan you linked doesn't have a spec listed for power draw, but typically very quiet fans are below 300 mA.

If your total fan power draw (add together all fans) is less than 90% of the power your receiver can output, you can hook the fans up directly.

If your total power draw exceeds 90% of the rated output of your receiver, you need to use a relay to power the fans.

Here is a relay board that will work.

Here is the same thing but shipped free (probably from China, may be slow)

You'd also need a 12V power supply that provides enough current to run all your fans together.

Here are USB Fans - plug straight into PS4 or TV, and they turn on when the device powers up.

You could also use a 5V relay to control 12V fans from the PS4 usb if you wanted. Or use the TV's USB to trigger the fans whenever the TV is on.

Here is a plug and play thermally controlled fan setup

I'd plan on using both fans as exhaust on the top shelf. Just make air inlet holes in the bottom. Typically you want 30%-50% more inlet volume than outlet volume if you can get it. Remember all the cracks along the doors and edges will let air in as well. Making an air path across the front of the shelf by trimming is a fine idea.

So, step 1, decide when you need the cooling system to turn on - PS4, receiver, tv, 24/7, or other (such as temperature).
Then I can tell you how to use that device to turn it on.

> So all is starting to make sense now :)

Happy to hear! Fans funnily enough probably caused me the greatest confusion when building my pc haha.

> I was thinking to get 2 of the Be Quiet's for intake.

Sounds like a good plan :)

And your arrangement seems great as well! With the be quiet ones they are apparently loud at 100%, so make sure to use the Asrock software to make sure they run at a nice balance of cooling and quietness.

Your understanding of the splitters is spot on too.

I'm using a noctua splitter i got with my cpu cooler, but theyre all the same really, just a bit of wire. So i'd just go with the cheapest you can find (unless you want them to look pretty)

The bequiets i linked are 3 pin so i'd recommend getting a 3pin splitter (im not 100% sure if a 4pin splitter will work, they probably will though, i cant imagine why they wouldnt).

[Something like this will work]() edit: i removed the link,

Or head to ebay for some really cheap ones that'll take ages to get to you :)


edit: i originally linked this splitter but realised one side only has 2 cables (so its only power and will run at 100%, make sure to find one that splits the 3rd speed control line as well)

I thought I would share my cheap HTPC build. It was made mostly from parts I had sitting around.

Basically, it is:

• A Lenovo M90P PC, but is not the SFF (Small Form Factor) version. Mine has an i5 Core 650 with 8GB of RAM. Note that this is a BTX motherboard, so it's not compatible with ATX parts.
  
  
• 128GB Samsung Pro 840 SSD for the OS.
  
  
• Two WD Red 4TB drives, setup in a Storage Pool under Windows 10. I also sync my library to a backup server and to a second external HDD. (I previously only had one, but it overheated and died, I did not have backups, and I lost my entire library! That is why I am doing this again.)
  
  
• A CPU fan controller.
  
  
• A HDD cooling fan added to each WD drive. The fans keep the HDDs around 87F - 93F degrees, which is acceptable considering this is in the same small cabinet with my stereo receiver, Tivo, and PS3, which all get pretty warm when running.
  
  
• Added a Lian Li MF-699 3-fan bay cooler to add air flow.
  
  
• Asus Xonar sound card
  
  
• EVGA GeForce GT 610 video card with an HDMI output
  
  
• This little wireless keyboard
  
  
• One of these power adapters which allowed me to plug in the two HDD fans with MOLEX connectors (as the Lenovo only has SATA power connectors)
  
  
• Passmark disk checkup utility to monitor the temps of the HDDs. This is required because using Storage Pools prevents most HDD monitoring software from working. Passmark actually monitors the drives at the system level, not at the "Drive letter" level.
  
  And that's it.
  
  It is running Windows 10, a Plex media server and media player, and a PlayOn server.
  
  I use the sound card because the built-in one either didn't support 5.1 or did not support 5.1 through Plex. It connects to my AVR.
  
  I use the video card to get an HDMI output, which goes through a 5-port HDMI switcher (my 3 other devices, including a Steam Link plus one spare port), and then to my projector (which only has 2 HDMI inputs and obviously doesn't have sound, hence the AVR).
  
  I hope this is inspiration that you don't have to spend a lot to get a fully functional HTPC.

Questions:
Not exactly. This will last a long time before upgrading. Might want to go i7, but whatever you can afford for now.

Yes, a few fans are included. It is your choice. You really will not need it but if you want... You can get that, 74.0 CFM and 12 DBA. Only if you are getting some high temperatures on a few things.

General Questions:
I do not know any sites that do this without charging an extra 1K.

The i7 of course, but the i5 should be good. Might not last as long as programs progress. Not trying to fanboy here but... AMD has its Open CL business down, while Nvidia is just there. Programs can use Open CL and it has a very good future compared to CUDA. Just an option.

Get a PCI-E wireless card. You can get one for around $20.

Get some dust filters. With that many animals around you might want some thick dust filters if they do not include in the build.

Otherwise, I have nothing else to say. Maybe read some reviews on strong cases? I don't know what to recommend for it.

Nice one.


I just built my first PC (for audio recording).
I had so much fun, I'm looking to build another based on the Tomahawk Max + R5 2600 + 1660 super, in the near future. Seems to be the best price to performance ratio at the moment.
I am a noob, but I watched a tonne of tutorials, and I would suggest installing a second 120mm fan in the front of the case. It appears it can drastically reduce temps.


This is supposed to be excellent value. Good performance and reasonably quiet
https://www.amazon.ca/Arctic-F12-Rev-PWM-standard/dp/B00H3T1KBE/ref=sr_1_4?crid=3TD0TLAB8IORC&keywords=arctic+f12+pwm&qid=1574676360&sprefix=arctic+f12%2Caps%2C176&sr=8-4


Enjoy your new rig, you earned it.

Usually on the website for the case it will tel you what fan sizes the case can have in each spot, how many fans it can have, and which ones come with the case. See where is says cooling system? That's where it is! Basically just search whatever case you're looking for go on company's website and it should be there. As for which ones to get, just get ones that fit in each spot, that's what I did at least. I have a HAF 912 case (HAF=high airflow) so granted it will have great airflow regardless, but I maxed out the fans and have a hyper 212 evo and my CPU never goes above 40 C unless I'm ocing. I would get this fan if you're looking for a 120mm this fan if you're looking for a 140mm and this one for a 200m. Obviously you caan get different colors etc, but that model is imo the best value by far. Gl! I'm going to bed, I'll continue answer questions in the morning :D

I just did all this work to show someone my computer which I named "Maelstrom". It wasn't exactly "unlimited" money but it's pretty damn close. I actually built it though.

Honestly, I spent so much time gathering the links to share with someone I need to post it more than once :P

---

The PC:

• CM ATCS 840
  
  
• Intel Core i7 980x - I sometimes OC to 4.4ghz
  
  
• Gigabyte X58A-UD7 1366
  
  
• G.Skill Pi+ Turbulence 12gb(6x2gb) DDR3 1600Mhz 6-8-6-20
  
  
• 2x EVGA GTX480 in SLI
  
  
• MSI 9500GT 1gb - runs my spare monitor and 42" TV. It's also the loudest damn thing in my case, I'll fix that eventually lol.
  
  
• ASUS Xonar DG
  
  
• I won't go through all my hard drives but I have 8 terabytes of space which, believe it or not, I fill about 85% of.
  
  
• Antec TPQ1200 -believe it or not I've actually managed to peak my system at 1100watts. Who says 1200watts is unnecessary. I trip my circuit breaker SO often lol.
  
  ---
  
  Cooling system:
  
  
• EK Supreme HF Universal CPU block
  
  
• 2x EK GeForce 480 full cover block
  
  
• EK SLI Bridge
  
  
• 5.25" bay reservoir (no longer listed online).
  
  
• Swiftech MCP655 pump
  
  
• Black Ice Extreme III Radiator - main radiator
  
  
• Swiftech MCR220 quiet power radiator - mid-loop radiator
  
  
• 8ft of UV acid green tubing + black compression fittings, L and T flow adapters.
  
  
• 3x230mm CM fans included with case.
  
  
• 1x120mm rear fan included with case.
  
  
• 5xScythe Gentel Typhoon 1850rpm
  
  
• 6 channel Zalman fan controller (no longer listed)
  
  ---
  
  Input Hardware:
  
  
• Razer Lachesis 5600dpi
  
  
• Razer BlackWidow
  
  
• Razer Goliathus Control Edition
  
  ---
  
  Audio:
  
  
• Audio Technica AD700 - when I use headphones
  
  
• Yamaha RX-V765
  
  
• 3x Boston HD5 bookshelf speakers
  
  
• BIC America 475watt peak subwoofer
  
  
• Zalman ZM-mic1
  
  ---
  
  Video:
  
  
• Alienware OptX AW2310 24" 120hz monitor
  
  
• Sceptre X24WG 1920x1200 LCD
  
  
• Phillips 42" 120hz HDTV (no longer listed), it was around $900 when I got it.
  
  ---
  
  Aesthetics:
  
  
• Custom Cut 20" side window
  
  
• 2x12" UV cold cathodes
  
  
• 1x4" UV cold cathode
  
  ---
  
  Online Picasa album for photos of the computer and my setup can be found HERE. It's changed a bit since some of these pictures. I still haven't added pictures since I re-cabled a few areas and finished off some sleeving.

Phantom 410.. Probably the 240 I think? If so I had that case. Yeah with phantom that's the only way you only have one fan in front but the front fan doesn't do much other than cool the hard drive bays imo if you removed some of those bottom bays it'd let cool air go into the case more. H100i fan was loud af in my (410).

Yeah also change out corsair imo the stock are alright but!
https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-NF-F12-PWM-Cooling-Fan/dp/B00650P2ZC and the cables that come with it limit the rpm to 3 different levels depending on how loud you want them and these are for radiators because they push more air than the other and much more quiet. If you don't care about rgb you can replace all other with 140mm and 120mm quiet editions noctua. If you want rgb for the others I recommend thermaltake riing fans (quiet edition) actually doesn't matter because if I remember they are all 4 pin so you can adjust in bios


Or

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00KG8K5CY/ref=pd_aw_fbt_147_img_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=4WJBQAR06PMYQFMBRPGX

You could try these cables to the fans and they will lower the rpm depending on which one you use so it's not as loud. If it's the 410 there should be the fan controller on top if it's the 240

I just finished my first PC last week and it’s very similar to yours. Make sure your case can fit the NH-D15 because I had to switch cases last minute. Also make sure the second fan on it will clear your RAM. For 120mm fans, I think 120mm is the go to. For 140mm, 140mm.

Edit: Actually that’s the same height ram as mine so you’ll for sure have to raise the second fan a tiny bit which was no problem for me, but make sure your case can fit those extra few mm on the DH15.

Here’s my build to compare. It’s been incredible so far! I posted a small review about it if you want to compare more.

PCPartPicker Part List

Type|Item|Price

----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel Core i7-9700K 3.6 GHz 8-Core Processor | Purchased For $285.00
CPU Cooler | Noctua NH-D15 CHROMAX.BLACK 82.52 CFM CPU Cooler | Purchased For $100.00
Motherboard | Asus PRIME Z390-A ATX LGA1151 Motherboard | Purchased For $178.00
Memory | G.Skill Ripjaws V 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3600 Memory | Purchased For $76.99
Storage | XPG GAMMIX S10 1 TB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive | Purchased For $88.99
Storage | Addlink S70 1 TB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive | Purchased For $110.00
Video Card | NVIDIA GeForce RTX 2070 SUPER 8 GB Video Card | Purchased For $411.82
Case | Fractal Design Meshify S2 ATX Mid Tower Case | Purchased For $152.00
Power Supply | EVGA SuperNOVA G3 650 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply | Purchased For $105.00
Case Fan | Noctua NF-P14s redux-1500 PWM 78.69 CFM 140 mm Fan | Purchased For $14.95
Case Fan | Noctua NF-P14s redux-1500 PWM 78.69 CFM 140 mm Fan | Purchased For $14.95
Monitor | LG 27UK650-W 27.0" 3840x2160 60 Hz Monitor | $0.00
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total | $1537.70
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2019-11-12 00:23 EST-0500 |

My best friend and I are building twin entertainment centers as a sort of best friend project. We live across the state from eachother, and money is tight, so we're in for a long haul. Basically we want to make something like this: http://imgur.com/a/8p2me. We both have pets, so we are going to have a small lit fan in each cubby, these ones:

http://www.amazon.com/Cooler-Master-SickleFlow-Computer-R4-L2R-20AC-GP/dp/B0026ZPFCK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1374772803&sr=8-1&keywords=computer+fan


Needless to say, those add up :( Would be awesome to get some help.

Noticed you didn't have a Mobo, you need one to mount everything to work. You can get 450M's as well which is cheaper, but doesn't have the same improvements as 570's:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07TGHV63W/?tag=pcpapi-20

Here's some RGB Ram that are cheaper and have more reviews: https://www.newegg.com/team-16gb-288-pin-ddr4-sdram/p/N82E16820331285

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07D5SN1ZK/?tag=pcpapi-20

This is a white case fan that you can use as well, it's slightly lower in quality but it's another option: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002KTVFTE/?tag=pcpapi-20

Here's a white RGB AIO, as well. Not sure if ordering from the manufacturer won't cause problems, because there's no sellers selling it normally: https://www.corsair.com/us/en/Categories/Products/Liquid-Cooling/Dual-Radiator-Liquid-Coolers/Hydro-Series%E2%84%A2-H100i-RGB-PLATINUM-SE-240mm-Liquid-CPU-Cooler/p/CW-9060042-WW

Here's a white 2080 super, and the reference card that can fit into your your white esthetic: https://www.newegg.com/msi-geforce-rtx-2080-super-rtx-2080-super-ventus-oc/p/N82E16814137443

https://www.bestbuy.com/site/nvidia-nvidia-geforce-rtx-2080-super-8gb-gddr6-pci-express-3-0-graphics-card-black-silver/6361326.p?skuId=6361326&cmp=RMX&irclickid=V1R1jIQw2xyJW9hxU-SAVSQkUklXmbwWIzONSM0&irgwc=1&ref=198&loc=79301&acampID=633495

Everything else you have looks good. 👍

>Hi All,

>Hopefully I'm in the right spot, if not, please point me in the right direction. I'm looking to replace my DS1812+ NAS with my old gaming rig (originally built in 2009). I think it's overkill, but want to make sure I don't need anything extra or am missing something that will stop this.

>This is my current setup (Besides the GPU which is an AMD Radeon HD 5850, but couldn't find that exact model):

>PCPartPicker Part List

This is all fine, but if you want a CPU upgrade you can get a 6C/12T X5670 for around $20 on ebay. Your 930 has about 5100 passmark while the X5670 has about 7850 passmark. No need to add more RAM.

>I will need to buy some 5.25" to 3.5" converters, but the MB has 10 SATA ports, so no issues there, plenty of memory. My plan is to install Xpenology (Unsure if bare metal or ESXi yet) and overall make the system as quiet as possible. I'm pretty sure I have the stock CPU Cooler still installed, so that would be the first thing to go for something better/cooler.

This drive bay converter is cheap and works great. If you're looking to make it as quiet as possible, pick up a 5 pack of Arctic PWM fans and a replacement CPU cooler.

>Any thoughts/comments/tips going forward? Do I need to keep the GPU in there, or can I just remove it from the setup completely (quieter, cooler)?

You can ditch the full size video card for something smaller such as an 8400GS, which should save you a ton of power. You won't need anything but a means of display out.


>Thanks for your help!

>Edits: DS1812+ had its MB fried and I am using the PC as a temporary solution while I sort out my next move. PC is currently running Win10 for work/uni. End goal is to have something that will be able to run Plex stream (some transcoding) at 1080p for 2 devices simultaneously and possibly use it for cloud storage in the future.

Sadly, this is just another notch in the tree of dead Synology units. I personally wouldn't recommend Xpenology, I'd look into unraid first as it's the most versatile, easy to use, and easy to expand storage focused OS.

It will be pretty good, just switch the fan out and you'll be set. (You have plenty of vertical space)

Zip tie a noctua nf-14 or nf-15 round style fan to it.

Brown nf-a15 $22

• https://www.amazon.com/Premium-Quality-Cooling-NF-A15-PWM/dp/B00AED7XFI?keywords=noctua+140mm&qid=1536846229&sr=8-16&ref=mp_s_a_1_16
  
  Black nf-a15 $26 (same spec as brown just black)
  
  
• https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-NF-A15-HS-PWM-chromax-Black-swap-Premium-Grade/dp/B07654B9MR?keywords=noctua+140mm&qid=1536846229&sr=8-12&ref=mp_s_a_1_12
  
  Brown nf-a14 $20
  
  
• https://www.amazon.com/noctua-NF-P14-FLX-SSO-Bearing-Computer/dp/B002W7T59Q?keywords=noctua+140mm+nf-a14&qid=1536846270&sr=8-15&ref=mp_s_a_1_15
  
  Definitely keep your fan the comes with the Pallas because it is a BEAST fan, but these other ones should be able to push you higher. :)
  
  
  Pallas $32
  
  
• https://m.newegg.com/products/9SIA66Z28G9982
  
  For under $60 you'll be set. Then you can sell your current cooler. :)
  
  
  Also I just posted the official links to the raijintek ophion. And ophion evo on here you can look there for more details on the cases. :)

The server was bought off eBay as a complete dual-node, Supermicro system: an SC808T-1200W chassis with dual X8DTT-F motherboards. Each node came with 72GB RAM and two Xeon X5650 (95W TDP) CPUs, but no hard drives.

I made no permanent mods to the server. The only changes I made were...

1. Removing the six 1U fans and fan mounts.
   
2. Removing the hard drive backplane because 2.5 inch SSDs were going to be installed rather than 3.5 inch HDDs. The backplane could have been left in place had I bought Supermicro caddie adapters, but I didn't.
   
3. Replacing the installed Xeon X5650 CPUs with Xeon L5630 (40W TDP) CPUs.
   
4. Replacing the factory 1U CPU heat sinks with new Cooler Master S2N-PLMHS-07-GP 2U Passive CPU Cooler Processor Heatsinks. All the Supermicro 2U heat sinks I could find on eBay were designed for front-to-back airflow, so the fins across the top were closed. I needed heat sinks that would accept top-down airflow.
   
5. Replacing the factory Supermicro PWS-1K21P-1R power supply with a new Supermicro PWS-920P-SQ power supply that I found on eBay for $60. This was based on a great write-up on servethehome.com: Supermicro PWS-1K21P-1R, PWS-501P-1R, PWS-920P-SQ noise comparison. The PWS-920P-SQ is only 920W compared to 1200W, but provides sufficient power and is much quieter. The power supply in this system powers both motherboards.
   
6. Adding two Noctua NA-FC1 4-pin PWM Fan Controllers for better speed control of the 140mm fans. These are the small black devices with green and amber LEDs. They allow the fan RPMs to be lowered 50%. This generation Supermicro motherboard provides only limited fan speed control, and it's in BIOS rather than through IPMI.
   
   Overall, the server is not silent, but it is whisper quiet. It's also a bit more of a space heater than I expected.

Story Time

​

Initially, I started with this case ( https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00Q2Z11QE ) as I was thinking of throwing something together like what you're talking about. Then my "project" began to grow.

That's when I ended up ordering this case instead ( https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005KQ66ZC ). That said, my server consists of a Threadripper 2990WX with an AIO water cooler. Well...this case wasn't made for that. So my father in law machined a hole in the top to mount the radiator on the top of the case like a blower on a car. This worked VERY well for a couple of weeks, but I just wasn't happy with it.

Finally, I ordered this case ( https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0091IZ1ZG ), to which I was able to fit everything inside of with a few extra bolts that still need to be trimmed. Here's a pic of the inside of mine and the temp 32 cores runs at ( https://imgur.com/tek9ID0 - https://imgur.com/vEPFLv5 ), do excuse the dust.

​

As far as SSD's go, just do something like this ( https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GMGZBP0 ). Saves space and doesn't hurt them as they only take a single HDD slot. Taping them to the side of the case doesn't hurt either if you don't care about the looks. Also, I want to boast about these fans for a min ( https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KFCRF1A ). Move a lot of air and aren't as loud as you'd think. The 120mm variant is a good bit louder, but still well worth it.

Yes - we made one this year and used it. The biggest lesson we learned was that the usb powered fan we used (https://www.amazon.com/AC-Infinity-MULTIFAN-Receiver-Playstation/dp/B00G05A2MU/ref=pd_bxgy_147_3?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00G05A2MU&pd_rd_r=CN7CZE2K5CBCZ4GSY40M&pd_rd_w=lIUEB&pd_rd_wg=eBdrH&psc=1&refRID=CN7CZE2K5CBCZ4GSY40M) had quite a low air flow rate, which was the achilles heel of the cooler.

Combined with the fact that the tents were not insulated, it did not appreciably decrease the overall temperature in the tent - you would have been better off with just a more powerful, normal fan.

However, the air coming out of the swamp cooler was definitely much colder - so if you duct it right into your face, it was awesome - but this meant only the person in front of the duct got the cooling action.

If you do it, I recommend:

• get maximum fan power
  
• make sure you duct it properly so you can direct airflow exactly where it needs to go
  
• add an insulating layer to tent (the military learned the importance of this: http://sprayfoam.com/foam-news/spray-foam-insulation-saving-lives-billions-of-dollars-in-iraq-afghanistan/1160)

In step 14 of the instructions you attach the front shroud. The kit includes M2x4.5 standoff screws which connect to the shroud and allow for the backplate to screw in as well. The M2 or M2.5 nylon washers in the previous linked kit will be the best fit, but honestly you can use whichever you want. Depending on the level of clearance you want you might want to stack a couple there should be enough threads on the screw to still hold the shrowd in place.

Edit: Oh one other thing. Invest in a new fan. The fan included with the kit is noisy, I recommend the Nidec gentle typhoon but there are other options out there.

Another update in my quest to learn how/why the Noctua fans work with the Monoprice. I started the upgrade process for printer and cut off the stock fan. Before I soldered the new one on, I thought I'd check out if the new fan "just worked." I turned my extruder heat to 100C since I know the stock fan kicks on at 75C, and when I bared back the wires and hooked black to black and red to red... nothing happened. Now I'm confused, because it's a PWM fan like I thought would workl.

I got out my voltmeter and I read 10V coming out of the line. Now, I'm pretty sure the power coming out of the printer is pulsed 12V DC, and I know my voltmeter doesn't have a setting for pulsed DC, so I'm not sure if 10V is the average power or if 10V is the peak or what my meter is reading. But if I touch the leads of my stock fans back to the printer, the stock fan turns out. I touch the Noctua fan leads, it doesn't turn on. Bummer.

So now I'm back in the boat with everyone else and have no idea what's going on. I don't have a capacitor to try out like u/cpr420 just yet (back to Amazon I go). I don't want to just tell it to kick off a print as I'd rather not run the hot end without cooling working properly, so the next plan is to get a bit of gcode written up and force full power at 12V to see if my fan turns on. Alternatively, I think I can hook it up to Pronterface and just tell my printer to turn the fan on. I'm not that familiar with Pronterface just yet.

Anyway, wanted to check in again with new info. I'll post again as I learn more.

I have the older ASUS Maxmimus V motherboard (ivy bridge) and I have the same cooling on the board. The 10mm ID tubing will just slip over the barbs on them, you will need some kind of clamp to hold them down. You will need a couple of THESE. This pack comes with a bunch, but they're cheap as fuck regardless.

If you have 2 GPU's, then I would go CPU -> GPU1 -> GPU2 -> motherboard -> radiator if you want to do a single loop. You will Definitely need a good radiator for that, my rig uses a monster external radiator, and external radiators help to wick heat away from your system more efficiently than internal ones because they're cooling with colder external air, and not blowing the hot air back into your case. Your other option is to get something with dual pumps like THIS That will let you run 2 cooling lines from the reservoir/pump kit. One should go Cpu -> Gpu -> Radiator and the other should go Gpu -> Motherboard -> Radiator.

With 2 GPU's you're better off with the 480mm version of the UT60 if you can find the space for it. It has dual input ports so you will be able to feed both lines into the input side of the radiator.

The best fans for radiator cooling are the Gentle Typhoons they are a little expensive, but they have the highest static pressure with the lowest noise compared with any other fan on the market. Even the Air Penetrators aren't as good for a radiator due to their lower static pressure although they are better for case fans because they have higher CFM.

What kind of case are you using?

Any good slim case fans out there? There only appears to be a few out there but I don't know how good they really are.

My Cooler Master N200 top case fan slot needs a 120mm x 15mm fan, and I was wondering what good ones would fit.

For other fans, I'm looking at getting these. Are they good?

Have you already bought the fans? If not I’d say go with the AC Infinity MULTIFAN S3, Quiet 120mm USB Fan for Receiver DVR Playstation Xbox Computer Cabinet Cooling ones by ac infinity. They have a controller in line and it’s plug and play, no secondary power sources to power the controller to go back to the fan.

I originally got this fan controller with the two recommended buys which are the 4 pack of fans and a molex power supply.

This will let you have 4 fans all controllable. So you can always have two buckets side by side in the future and have them share a fan controller. That is what I was going to do, but ended up going with the prewired because of the fan cfu between then and easy I’d install.

Hope that helps. Sorry it didn’t use your adapter, but you can always use that for a 1-2 meters of led strip if it’s 2A

Well for the same price you can get the F12 PWM which performs about the same but has PWM control, P12 (pressure optimized) PWM is also at the same price but you'd want the F12 for an intake

https://www.amazon.ca/Arctic-F12-120-Standard-Cooler-Silent/dp/B00H3T1KBE?th=1&psc=1

If you want to step up a few bucks the Noctua redux S12B PWM is a good option for pure airflow. As is the redux P12 which is more balanced/radiator oriented. I'd go for the p12 for versatility, it's pretty good at both and especially useful when modern cases have such restrictive intakes. Non PWM versions of both can be had for a bit cheaper but imo it's not worth the dollar or two, they're a bit loud at full blast and redux doesn't come with LNAs

https://www.newegg.ca/p/N82E16835608061?item=9SIAB984BE1443

Good, the 8700k will last longer. that intel 600p SSD is NMVE, i have it, its good.

I have the original D15 cooler, they are great, my system runs very cool and quiet. One thing I would do if I were you is to buy the chromax versions of the fans that come with it, they are black and have multi color rubber bumpers....THEY LOOK SO MUCH BETTER!

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07654B9MR/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

With a $1400 build, don't skimp on $4 fans. Your corsair fan is hot garbage in terms of cfm-to-dbA (52 cfm and 25 dbA). Here's some much better 120mm fans:


1 74 cfm, 22.5 dbA, $4
2 +PWM
3 74 cfm, 15 dbA, 50% more silent
4 110 cfm, 37 dbA, 2.5 times louder
5 241 cfm, this will blow the components out of your case, provides extreme cooling, but 62 dbA, extremely loud


Here's good 140mm options:


1 Cheap, 61 cfm and 16 dbA
2 90 cfm and 18 dbA, way better but more expensive
3 159 cfm and 41 dbA, fastest 140mm fan listed on pcpartpicker


Both of these PSUs are both better and cheaper than yours: 1 2

Your motherboard will work fine in this case. For the three case fans that are included you can get by with something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Silverstone-Technology-Sleeved-Splitter-CPF02/dp/B00HJOJS9O/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1502741583&sr=1-3&keywords=3+fan+splitter

Each header can handle a certain amperage, but in general 3 fans won't over do it. You could also get molex to fan adapters if you don't need to control their speed or a fan controller as well if you don't want to connect them all to the motherboard, but still control them with certain ones.

EDIT: On a side note your motherboard is a MATX and this is a full size ATX case, so you could go for a MATX case to save space and potentially money, but the current case will be fine as stated.

Here's my suggestion:

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

Type|Item|Price

----|:----|:----
CPU | AMD - Ryzen 5 1400 3.2GHz Quad-Core Processor | €147.89 @ Amazon Deutschland
Motherboard | ASRock - AB350M Micro ATX AM4 Motherboard | €68.20 @ Amazon Deutschland
Memory | G.Skill - Aegis 8GB (1 x 8GB) DDR4-2400 Memory | €68.89 @ Amazon Deutschland
Storage | Verbatim - Verbatim SATA II 128GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | €51.90 @ Amazon Deutschland
Storage | Seagate - BarraCuda 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | €44.90 @ Amazon Deutschland
Video Card | Zotac - GeForce GTX 1060 6GB 6GB Mini Video Card | €259.90 @ Caseking
Case | Corsair - Carbide Series 88R MicroATX Mid Tower Case | €45.63 @ Amazon Deutschland
Power Supply | Corsair - Vengeance 550W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply | €63.61 @ Amazon Deutschland
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total | €750.92
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-11-01 17:48 CET+0100 |

Solid overall mid-range gaming build with a R5 1400 (Quad-core with 8 threads), a budget B350 motherboard, a single 8GB stick of RAM so you can add aother later, a 128GB SSD + 1TB HDD, GTX 1060 6GB, and solid MATX case with a semi-modular Bronze 550W power supply.

I'd also probably recommend getting an additional 120mm fan (5-10€ish) to mount in front so you have an intake.

https://www.amazon.de/dp/B00H3T1KBE/?tag=pcp05-21

If the taxes and such are too high, I would suggest dropping to the Ryzen 3 1200.

https://de.pcpartpicker.com/product/TX4NnQ/amd-ryzen-3-1300x-35ghz-quad-core-processor-yd1200bbaebox

Also, I would highly recommend doing just a tad of research on overclocking as it is very easy on modern unlocked processors - just a matter of increasing the multiplier and adjusting the voltage settings a tad, then doing some stability testing with Cinebench and Prime95. Plenty of Youtube videos and written guides/articles on overclocking Ryzen.

no bumps wont knock any tubes loose. they are legit held in no issue. the only way you are popping a tube is if you yank on it pretty hard.

whatever case fans you get, make sure it has good mmh2o stats. that is what will help penetrate through grills and dust filters to ensure air actually gets in the case. knew a dude who spent money on fans that had led, but the mmh2o stats were sub 1.0mmh2o and even at higher rpm, put your hand behind it inside the case and you barely felt anything. this is one of the biggest issue with a lot of builds these days. they go "oh this fan is a air flow fan, well i need good airflow derp" and the fans have crap pressure.

https://www.amazon.com/Bearing-Cooling-NF-P14s-redux-1500-PWM/dp/B00KF7O58G/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1494259307&sr=8-1&keywords=nf-p14s

For example, this fan (as apposed to the brown color original) is 1.91mmh2o and 78.69cfm. Pretty decent fans considering price and will be relatively quiet.

https://www.amazon.com/Bearing-Cooling-NF-A14-iPPC-3000-PWM/dp/B00KFCRF1A/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1494259393&sr=1-2&keywords=nf-a14+ippc

This bad bish, 10.5mmh2o (yeah, holy cow right?) and 158.50CFM. these fans can get airplane loud, but flow amazing. I literally use this fan, 2 as intake, 1 as exhaust, and 2 on radiator in pull configuration pulling air out of the case via the top. All fans run about 1500-1800rpm and temps of the 1800x never go over 40c gaming and 50c prime95 stress test.

Fans of 1.5mmh2o or better for case. radiator fans should have AT LEAST 3.5mmh2o (most aio's come with fans that do just that, so no issue there). CFM isn't really a big deal, as long as the penetration (mmh2o) is there you'll be fine.

Unless you care about the white fan blades, the P12 version with black blades seem to be better at moving air and quieter. Note that these aren't PWM so they'll run at max speed unless your motherboard supports changing fan speeds via voltage. Arctic fans are great value.

edit: In my opinion you should by the PWM pack, which has fans that can be daisy-chained: https://www.amazon.ca/Arctic-ACFAN00135A-Value-Pack-Pressure-Optimized/dp/B07HC782D5/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_bdcrb_top?ie=UTF8&th=1

What I would do, find a cheaper mother board, maybe around 120-130 CAD , there''s lots of good options, (like I have the MSI B450 Gaming Plus for instance), then buy something like these fans, maybe not the highest cfm or the quietest but they're not too shabby and they're cheap so chose for yourself. Then maybe see if you can find cheaper ram, like 3000 MHz will work fine I think for 2nd gen Ryzen instead of 3200, not the biggest deal though. It would cost a little more, but I also think that getting a 5700 non-reference, unless you want it to be noisy and overheat, would be a good fit for you, only trouble is finding one as they're out of stock pretty much everywhere. I think the higher performance and extra v-ram would be a good investment, especially since it's not that much more. It also depends on what resolution you're gaming at. 1080, both of those card will do fine in AAA games, but 1440 they will both struggle a little bit, the 2060 non-super more so. The choice is yours, that's just my two cents.

Item | Price | Description
---------|----------|----------
Caselabs Mercury S8 Mounting Plate, Black, New | $9 shipped | NA.
CaseLabs Mercury S8/S8S SSI-EEB Motherboard Trays + Stealth SSD/HDD Mount, Black| $26 shipping not Included | Used only slightly.
Caselabs Mercury Flex-Bay Cover, Triple Solid Black, New | $9.5 shipped | Two of the flex bay cover are available.
Caselabs S8 36mm Extended Ventilated Top Cover with Custom DEMCi Filters | $80 | I am going with a full window top so I have no need for this.
Caselabs S8 and S8S Drop-in Top Radiator Mounts | $19 shipped | I am going with a full window so no longer need this.
Caselabs 120.3 (360) Drop-in Radiator Side Mount - S8 and S8S | $19 shipped | NA.
Corsair 140 Case Fan | $7 shipped | Took this out of a Corsair case.
Fan Rings for Corsair AF 140 | Free. You just pay shipping. | NA.
SilverStone 120mm Fan Filter with Grill FF121 (Black) | $6 shipped | NA.
Alphacool Eiszapfen L-connector G1/4 inner thread to G1/4 inner thread - chrome | $9 shipped | This is new unused. I bought this for a build but found out I didn't need the fitting.


Please reply to post before sending a PM. Moreover, all prices are OBO. Discounts available for buying more than one item. For local interest, I am in Towson, MD. Thanks.

Timestamps

Check this beast of a fan out...

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002QVLBM2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Its my fav fan Ive ever used. Pretty cheap and very reliable. Oh did I mention it moves 75cfm at 1400rpm with virtually no noise?! Yeah theyre amazing, I have 5 of them, 2 intake, 1 side exhaust, and 2 on my 120mm radiator. All run constant 100% and my system is still relatively quiet, well other than the sound of ALOT of air moving :)

Look for the highest cfm fan that you can fit on your bucket. It will force circulate more air than your basic computer fan. More air flow = more evap = cooler. I went with this guy as an upgrade from last year, and it was quite the beast though my water pump gave out, which sucked. The fan worked as an amazing air circulator, so it wasn't all for naught. You could also bump up to the 14mm fan if you really want a bump up in performance and are okay with making some minor tweaks to your cooler bucket top

You can also try to have a fan direct on your cooler and another that you can aim attached to the output tube so that you can push the air in the direction that you would like.

The starter pack comes with 3 AER RGB fans and a lighting controller (Hue 2). Since NZXT uses proprietary RGB headers, you will need Hue 2, a free usb header on your motherboard and the not so great NZXT CAM software for the RGB to work. Some have had success rewiring the 5v 3 pin addressable RGB on Asus motherboards, but honestly I don't know if it will work for you.

I'm a poor man, so I buy 12v 4 pin RGB fan packs, note that these are not addressable, so you can only have one color for each fan at any time. Addressable 5v 3 pin ones, aka rainbow puke are slightly more expensive. The great thing about these ones is that you can connect them straight to the motherboard without any lighting controller BS. You might need to buy a few RGB splitters (4 pin) or (3 pin addressable), though those are really cheap.

Lighting controllers are great if you want a lot of different colors for multiple LED strips and fans with all sorts of crazy effects. Otherwise the motherboard ones are usually enough.

Here goes:

Parts list:

Fan- http://www.amazon.com/Cooler-Master-SickleFlow-120-Radiators/dp/B0026ZPFCK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1395795979&sr=8-1&keywords=120mm+fan

Grill-http://www.amazon.com/Rosewill-RFG-120-120mm-Grill-Cooling/dp/B0057JFO9Q/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1395796001&sr=8-4&keywords=120mm+fan+grill

Power supply-http://www.amazon.com/Wall-Adapter-Power-Supply-12VDC/dp/B006GEPUYA/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1395796047&sr=8-5&keywords=12v+power+supply

Speed controller (optional)-http://www.amazon.com/Manual-Variable-Speed-controller-connector/dp/B002D3DK1I/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1395796082&sr=8-2&keywords=12v+fan+controller

Parts Notes:
You can get any 120mm fan locally (or any of these parts), this one isn't special. Make sure to note that its 12v DC and take note the amerage. This is imporant in sizing your power supply and/or speed controller. You may have a 12v DC wall charger to an old something or other laying around. As long as it is 12v DC and is around 1A, you should be all set. 0.7A, fine. 2.5A, fine... etc

Installation- I would put the fan inside the box exhausting upwards so the top of your box stays flush. You could put it on top of the box and have it pulling air out should you wish. The grill is optional to protect stuff from falling in and your fingers. Installation should be straight forward. Use small wood screws to mount both the fan and the grill. Pre-drill depending on wood type and screw size.

Powering it up- If you don't have a volt meter, take note of the positive and negative ends of everything before you cut any wires off. Label them clearly. If the fan has a 4 pin molex connector note the red and black pins. Plug them into the corresponding Load/Device side pins from your speed controller. Cut (or _____) and connect the positive lead from your wall plug to the red wire of the line side of the speed controller. Connect the negative to the black wire. Check your connections, then plug in the wall pack. Your speed control should now be controlling your fan.

To make the fan simply run at full load, connect the positive to the red of the fan, negative to the black of the fan to omit the speed controller.

All of these parts can be found at Frys / Radio Shack / local electronics or computer store.

Written at a (6). Sorry if unclear, just send a message.

Well that's a good question. I currently use http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835553002 for my desktop and NAS and they are the quietest fans I have tried so far, but they aren't dead silent at max speed.

If you are able to plug them all into the motherboard then they would be perfect as you could get them to run at like 50-70% speed were they barely make any noise, but I couldn't so they would ran max speed all the time. Which I had it in my room and I wanted it a bit quieter when I slept, so I just bought a couple http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000292DO0/ and put it on a bit lower speed and now they are perfect.

So it really depends if you want totally inaudible or not.

I wouldn't get a 1000w PSU becasue the price isnt worth just for same or slightly less noise. A high end PSU, like the G3 you have, is going to be less noisy than your GPU so I wouldn't worry about it. Or you can get a be quiet! straight power for a bit more but it will more quiet than the g3 without needing to buy a 1k watt psu.

Also, I like to fan splitters instead of a fan controller. I use this this one and it works great

> fan

I have fixed my problems with the fans and the machine runs both silently and even more quietly. I ordered a Noctua fan controller (https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B072M2HKSN/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) and a spare Noctua 92mm (https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00RUZ059O/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1).

Both of the controllers come with a cable that undervolt the fan it is connected to (called a low noise adapter). I removed the stock 92mm fan (which was facing me because of the way my setup works. You might be able to get away with not doing this, but then you'll be out an extra low noise adapter wire, which will limit the amount of sound dissipation you'll get out of it). I installed my Noctua 92mm in it's place. Then I moved the stock fan to the front.

The fan controller comes with a cord that connects to the motherboard and a sata power connector. It receives it's instructions from the motherboard and then powers all the fans connected to it proportional to how fast you set it at. E.g. if the motherboard is saying fan speed 100%, and you have it set to 80%, all the fans will move at 80%. It draws extra power from the sata cable so that it won't draw too much power from the motherboard. I ran those two cables through the bottom PCI slot and then attached the controller to the bottom of the outside of the case. I did have to use the extension cable to get it out of the case. (This is also included in the package).

I then ran the 3 way Y Splitter into the case. I attached the Noctua 92mm directly to the splitter and the low noise adapter wire to the stock fan, which is now located in the front. Basically this means that the Noctua fan (in the rear) runs around 50% speed and the front one probably close to 30% speed.

I then attached the CPU fan to the second low noise adapter.

After making these changes my temps dropped 1C to 37C from 38C and the machine went from sounding like a jet engine taking off to being basically silent.

YMMV, and you will have to go through the annoying BIOS error every time you boot (I have to hit escape when it's running the rear fan test) so it probably voids your warranty in some respect so I'd advise against this if you don't know what you're doing but it seems to work on mine.

I'm looking into getting a new CPU cooler for around $50, any recommendations? Right now it's looking like I'll get the Scythe Fuma Rev. B, but I was wondering if it would be worthwhile to replace the fans with something like these ones. I was also looking at the Thermalright Macho Rev. B, and I was wondering what the difference is between it and the Le Grand Macho RT. Thanks!

I recently picked up a 3D printer and decided to see if I could get my SG-3100 running a bit cooler. It's stuffed in a cabinet at the moment so I was originally just planning on adding some ventilation to the cabinet itself. But now that I have the option to print any custom design I decided to order a small USB powered blower fan and see if I could lower it's average temp down a bit more.

The design still isn't finalized since I'm still waiting on the fan to arrive, bit I figured I'd share to see if there was interest in something like this (I can upload the design if anyone else wants to try printing it as well).

The fan I'm planning on using: AC Infinity MULTIFAN S2, Quiet 120mm USB Blower Fan with Speed Control, for Receiver DVR Xbox Modem AV Cabinet Cooling https://www.amazon.com/dp/B012CL2V3I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_XsIADbS5D7D0C

I was also toying with the idea of raising the router up a bit and started on a small stand that would elevate it a bit, giving it a bit more breathing room. Here's what that looks like so far: https://imgur.com/nMvced6

Once I get a chance to print both of these to confirm the dimensions are accurate and fitment is good I can share the 3D models with anyone that's interested. I'd also be curious to know is anyone has seen either of these solutions accomplished a different way. I tried to do a bit of searching for parts like this but wasn't able to find anything other than one other simple stand on thingiverse.com.

The RMX 750W instead of the 850W? The difference in price is ~20$ here, might as well go with the bigger one just for ease of mind...

​

As for the Chromax fans, I'd just need to get a replacement Chromax-branded fan like this and install it instead of the default brown one on the cooler? I'll have to google around for a bit, 60€ (~75$) seems a bit steep for 2x just to get a better looking cooler :\ Thanks for the info - I think I'll just save myself the hassle for now and go with the vanilla Noctua, then if I absolutely hate it I'll just swap out the fans for black Chromax ones.

​

Edit: not sure if this setup uses any custom fans, but it looks perfectly ok.

Basically to make it easy for you, get EK blocks if you want. I wouldn't touch their nickel unless I absolutely had to, it still has issues regardless of what they say.

Bitspower fittings are generally considered the best quality (albeit a bit pricy) and IMO I would go with black ice radiators. I really like my black ice rads and they tend to perform the best in testing while usually being far cheaper.

Ideally you want as much rad space as possible and if you want the best fans you want gentle typhoons.

Basically after you leak test it you should be fine. It's very rare for a custom loop to leak with compression fittings unless something cracks or fails.

I just don't get why people keep supporting EK after they repeatedly show their QC is shit.

I always throw out the fans included in a case, unless I'm buying a very high-end case where I know that the manufacturer hasn't skimped on the fans.

My go-to replacement fan is the Cougar Vortex PWM 120mm unit. They're about $15 a piece and very quiet. If I need a quieter fan or more airflow while quiet I'll go Noctua, which usually run $20 to $30 per fan.

As for wires, power wires are included with your power supply and most motherboards come with two SATA cables, enough for the typical SSD + 1TB HDD builds you see out there. Additional SATA cables for attaching more disk are cheap and easy to find.

As for fan wires, I like to have a pack of splitters and resistors on hand to quiet down my fans even more than stock.

https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/list/HL7H9J

This and the cheapest 1060 6GB you can find, I got this 2 months ago and it’s very good for 1080p (60fps ultra on most AAA’s)

Get a SSD 240gb or 120gb SSD in the future (like I am) and the case comes with 1 fan but it is overall a big good case so get this fan for intake.

Get the Ryzen 1400 if you can’t get the R5 1600 for cheap enough for your budget.

Good luck on your build!

If you've tried several Mac fan-speed controllers and non of them are able to reduce the speed. You might be able to use something like this to manually adjust the fan speed hardware wise.

You'll have to check whether or not the Mac CPU fan will connect to that though before buying it. It might be the case that the CPU fan is a 4-pin fan connector, which won't work with that device (the device only has 3-pin connectors).

You'd probably be best off heading to a Mac specialist forum really, I couldn't find anywhere that actually had the basic hardware specifications on the cooling system.

That's a solid build. I have a similar setup in my living room PC but with a gtx 970.

For case fans I highly recommend this Arctic F12 https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00H3T1KBE/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It's cheap and pushes a lot of air and is pretty quiet. I tried several different fans and this was my favorite.

For wifi adapter, I'm just using a cheap USB adapter from eBay. It works fine and was $5.

Well if you're plugging your fans directly into your PSU, then you're probably running at 100%. If you plug them into your motherboard you can typically speed control them in the BIOS.

Typically if you want to plug the fans directly into the PSU, you'll need an inline resistor on the fans themselves to limit their voltage, or use a seperate fan controller. Some fans come with these adapters in their retail packages like these:

http://www.amazon.com/Noctua-NA-SRC10-Accessory-Low-Noise-Adaptors/dp/B00KG3KELQ

You can also buy a cheapo fan controller like this zalman one that works pretty well.

http://www.amazon.com/Zalman-Fan-Speed-Controller-FANMATE-2/dp/B000292DO0/ref=sr_1_8?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1427050723&sr=1-8&keywords=fan+controller

Scythe Gentle Typhoons are pretty good. The Corsair SP120 Quiet is a good fan as well.

Good to know.

Another question. That extra fan you included in the build.. Is this the same one on Amazon?

ARCTIC F12 PWM Rev. 2 - Fluid Dynamic Bearing Case Fan, 120mm PWM Speed Control https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00H3T1KBE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_ds0wDb7QM5SMC

I ask because the rest of the parts I ordered are due in the next 2 days, but that website I ordered the fan from is not going to ship it anytime soon. I have Amazon prime so I'd get the fan in 2 days If I order it from there.

I actually went with the original case you posted in the build (rosewill micro ATX mini tower) .

Oh crap, I'm stupid. I breezed passed which case you have for some odd reason. 1 Exhaust fan? You're definitely going to need more than that. At least just the side intake fan, that'll help a lot for now. You can grab a 120mm magnetic filter/mesh that you can put on the outside of the case to act as an air filter for your side intake. This way you don't have to worry about dust. I'd recommend also throwing at least another 120mm fan in the front as well to achieve more airflow and positive pressure.. I know you're aiming for silence, but computers need to breathe. If you purchase some quality fans and set custom fan curves, you can achieve low temps and low noise. Best of both worlds!

If money is tight look into fans from Fractal or Arctic. Yes, they aren't Noctua or BeQuiet but they're still very quiet and move a ton of air. Examples:

Fractal Venturi HF-12 120mm Case Fan

Arctic F12 120mm Case Fan (You can actually get a 5-Pack of these for $20 on Newegg)

Hey! So what I did was buy this controller and then add on the fans wherever I wanted them. These parts are made for audio visual racks so they look good and are quiet so it's not an eye sore. I highly recommend looking at "AC Infinitys" other stuff as they have some new fans that I like. Easiest solution for you might just be something like this.

nah i didn't fit one up top. im not trying to move that damn thing until the pcu hits 80c. i did plug them all straight into the mobo. at .08a i feel good about it... (we will see lol) and yes i also just opened them up to 1700 despite that making pwm useless, maybe i'll turn it down at some point. they're reading around 1660-1680 being powered from mobo and you can hear them but im plenty happy with noise level. i have never reviewed fans but the one thermal take i removed to put in the four was similar to all four wide open. i thought i was going to have to split multiple headers but after a bit of looking it seems fans have come a long way. i dont know what they pull when starting but full speed is .08a their support says pwm signal is good through 4 fans so i just did four and shoved the last one in a different machine.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07HC782D5/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

edit: fixed amperage

I'm pretty happy with my tv unit fan which lets be store my PS4 inside the cabinet...
https://www.amazon.ca/AC-Infinity-AIRPLATE-Cooling-Cabinets/dp/B009CO543S

The dual 80 gives you a better idea of what it looks like installed https://www.amazon.ca/AC-Infinity-AIRPLATE-Cooling-Cabinets/dp/B009CNR0I6?th=1 tap the photos down the side!

Is there a difference between the RF120 and RF120M fans, besides no wired controller? If not, it looks to me like the 2nd set is clearly the better value, with 2 extra fans for only 8$ more.

1. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074P19HSL?tag=pcpapi-20&linkCode=ogi&th=1&psc=1

VS.

2. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07HN199YJ?tag=pcpapi-20&linkCode=ogi&th=1

Thank you for the help!

An update for anyone else that may come across this.

Sounds like it's only an issue with the Behringer NX6000, but the fan pins only output 5-6VDC, so the Noctua NF-A8 FLX fan above does not work at all. I decided to try the lower power Noctua NF-A8 ULN (0.6W vs 0.84W), which did spin up, but not fast enough to provide any cooling. Next, I tried the Noctua NF-A8 5V version, which works a little too well... it's even louder than the original fans. That said, I have decided to keep the FLX models that I will externally power and control with this Noctua PWM fan controller.

Update #2: I went with this AVS Forums relay outlet box that is currently in operation. It works really well, and has no "thump" when the relay powers the amp on. As an added benefit, I now have my fans plugged into the extra receptacle, so both the amp and the externally powered fans turn off/on with the receiver. Also, since this method does not alter anything inside the amp, there will be no warranty issues.

Note: the link to the AVS Forum goes to the last page. The info for the relay controlled receptacle box is the first post.

Hope this helps someone avoid a lot of work and Amazon orders/returns in the future.

Edit: added my final power relay fix in update #2.

From the reviews and benchmarks I read a few months ago, the Cryorigh H7 is only slightly better than the 212 Evo. It's not worth buying if you already own an Evo.

​

I use the Arctic Cooling F series fans to cool my PCs. They are cheap, come with a 6 year warranty, and come in a variety of options. Most people recommend the 4 pin PWM ones that can change speeds automatically and let you set a custom fan curve. I use the 3 pin silent ones, which have a max speed of 800 RPM and are reasonably quiet. Pick your favorite.

​

https://www.amazon.com/ARCTIC-F12-PWM-PST-Technology/dp/B002QVLBM2/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1542114376&sr=8-3&keywords=arctic%2Bcooling%2Bfans&th=1

​

Amazon used to sell the 140mm ones too. Those come in and out of stock.

​

https://www.amazon.com/ARCTIC-Case-Fan-Continuous-Operation/dp/B01J4FUU7Y/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1542114786&sr=8-3&keywords=arctic%2Bfan%2Bf14&th=1

I love the Ubiquiti Unifi POE switches for VoIP. Easy to configure, simple vlan implementation (just use Unifi's default vlan mechanism, untagged access port with PVID, no need to set vlan ID's on the phones).

But for VoIP, the more important thing is the router/firewall/UTM, and the configurations that may be specific to each vendor.

A tip: if you want your networking gears to run nice and cool with minimum risk of failure, grab some 120mm USB fans like this https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00G05A2MU/ and put one on top of each of your POE switch/router/firewall etc. Those things tend to run hot, because they're usually minimally or passively cooled, and heat is your no.1 enemy for electronics. With a simple inexpensive fan like that sitting on top (the model I linked is also whisper quiet), each of your boxes will easily drop 10C in temperature or more. I have one for each one of my Mikrotik CCR routers, SonicWall UTMs and Unifi switches, even on some Unifi APs, all running soothingly cool.

Here r some fan controlers.

Zalman Fan Speed Controller FANMATE-2
https://www.amazon.com/Zalman-Fan-Speed-Controller-FANMATE-2/dp/B000292DO0/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8

Fan Variable Speed Controller
https://www.moddiy.com/products/Fan-Variable-Speed-Controller.html

Sunbeam 20W Rheosmart PCI Slot Smart Fan Controller - (PL-RS-PCI)
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/12489/bus-249/Sunbeam_20W_Rheosmart_PCI_Slot_Smart_Fan_Controller_-_PL-RS-PCI.html?tl=g34c17

Manual 12V Variable Speed Controller - 4-Pin Molex Connector to Dual 3-Pin Fan Connector
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/9389/bus-202/Manual_12V_Variable_Speed_Controller_-_4-Pin_Molex_Connector_to_Dual_3-Pin_Fan_Connector.html?tl=g34c17
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/6433/bus-114/FrozenCPU_FC1_External_Fan_Controller.html?tl=g34c17
http://www.frozencpu.com/cat/l2/g34/c17/list/p1/Bay_Devices-Fan_Controllers.html

Swiftech 8-Way PWM Cable Splitter - SATA Power (8W-PWM-SPL-ST)
http://www.frozencpu.com/cat/l3/g/c121/s424/list/p1/b33/Swiftech-Fan_Accessories-Multi_Fan_Ports-Page1.html

Thats a chunk of change for a watercooler if you're not overclocking and using windows. You'd be fine with a smaller single or double generic cooler to save quite a few quid!

None of the NZXT utilities will work under MacOS, so no LED control and pump control - and as with any water cooler on a hackintosh, you'll have to plug the fans into the motherboard and let the motherboard control the speed as it heats up (you can set your own curves in the BIOS).

Also - those case fans you chose have LEDs too - but no way to control them under MacOS - I would HIGHLY recommend Noctua fans instead of NZXT - I alway use the quietest ones I can find. I even replaced the 2 Corsair water cooler fans in my rig (mounted in the front grill), with these Noctua's and put one in the rear exit fan in my case - creates a nice, quiet, flow until the BIOS kicks it into high gear. They aren't as fast or push as much air, but great for my 8700k overclocked (Gigabyte's bios preset) to 4.8ghz all day long. At idle, they shut off completely, under normal use, they ramp up to about 800 rpm, then go higher as it gets hotter into the mid 60's, then full tilt at about 75c

I don't have a TB card on mine, but AFAIK, hotswapping is still a no go on MacOS, and I think its still runs at Thunderbolt 2 speeds. I could be wrong there, but last I remember, it was that way.

Hm using that case means i will have to change the motherboard to be USB 3.0 compatible (only £6 more)

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

Type|Item|Price

----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel Core i5-4690 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor | £162.18 @ Aria PC
Motherboard | ASRock H81M-HDS Micro ATX LGA1150 Motherboard | £36.66 @ Ebuyer
Memory | Crucial Ballistix Sport XT 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory | £57.99 @ Amazon UK
Storage | Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | £39.99 @ Amazon UK
Video Card | EVGA GeForce GTX 970 4GB ACX Video Card | £258.08 @ Amazon UK
Case | NZXT H230 (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case | £51.54 @ Scan.co.uk
Power Supply | EVGA 600B 600W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply | £46.09 @ Aria PC
Optical Drive | Samsung SH-224DB/BEBE DVD/CD Writer | £10.46 @ Aria PC
| | Total
| Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available | £662.99
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2014-11-11 13:50 GMT+0000 |

with an extra £50 i would upgrade the CPU and add a cooler to it.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

Type|Item|Price

----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel Core i5-4690K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor | £167.50 @ Amazon UK
CPU Cooler | Cooler Master Hyper TX3 54.8 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler | £25.50 @ Amazon UK
Thermal Compound | Cooler Master HTK-002 0.01g Thermal Paste | £1.83 @ Amazon UK
Motherboard | ASRock H81M-HDS Micro ATX LGA1150 Motherboard | £36.66 @ Ebuyer
Memory | Crucial Ballistix Sport XT 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory | £57.99 @ Amazon UK
Storage | Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | £39.99 @ Amazon UK
Video Card | EVGA GeForce GTX 970 4GB ACX Video Card | £258.08 @ Amazon UK
Case | NZXT H230 (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case | £51.54 @ Scan.co.uk
Power Supply | EVGA 600B 600W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply | £46.09 @ Aria PC
Optical Drive | Samsung SH-224DB/BEBE DVD/CD Writer | £10.46 @ Aria PC
| | Total
| Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available | £695.64
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2014-11-11 13:53 GMT+0000 |


edit: I would also buy some CPU FANS

from amazon:

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Arctic-F12-PWM-120mm-Performance/dp/B002QVLBM2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1415714102&sr=8-1&keywords=pc+fan

be sure to buy PWM fans so you can control the fan speed when installed onto the case

> You realize that the default NH-D15 aesthetic (without the brown/beige fans) works due to the neutral color of the aluminum? Here's an idea maybe you should look up the Redux refresh that is coming out that is cheaper and also is just as aesthetic.

Regardless - it's silver, and comes with brown fans. This one is black and comes with black fans.

It's a different aesthetic. They are equal but different. lol.

the "redux" lines are grey, and not quite as good as the current fans, hence reduced price. They aren't black.

>Doesn't matter what's available right now.

Yes it does.


>NF-A15 Chromax aren't that price range. If you're so concerned then get Redux NF-P14R/S ,rubber corners and you'd still save money. There's plenty of alternatives that aren't Chromax including Redux or other competing options.

They absolutely are. Newegg - $40
Amazon $35


the Chromax cover is another 40 bones.


So far we're up to more than $100 to black out an existing D15.


> If you're so concerned then get Redux NF-P14R/S ,rubber corners and you'd still save money. There's plenty of alternatives that aren't Chromax including Redux or other competing options.

The 14's have 140mm spacing, and don't fit the cooler mount properly. you need 120mm spacing like on the a12's or a15's.

The p14r/s can't use rubber mount corners (which are $10 for enough for 2 fans), are STILL $20 a piece, are louder and lower performance, and are grey.

>It's not better than the NF-A14/NF-F12 that were LTT branded. Oh wait it's the same exact shit just recycled.

those aren't available now, and at the time they were noctua didn't have their chromax line. I think you had to get an industrial noctua fan if you wanted a black one and they were almost $50 each.

The black cooler is going to be around for a while. the LTT is a limited edition thing.

>I get to dictate

No, the fuck you don't. lmao. You don't get to dictate a goddamned thing.

>price/performance is no longer on Noctua's side with this or the NH-U12A. They're now priced just as high as a 280 AIO or similarly.

Sure. The price/performance has decreased. Nobody debated that. Not everything is about pure performance per dollar though. There are many better "values" on the market - that doesn't make this one a "waste of money".

>If you want aesthetics then you'd go for an AIO than paying a premium.

"aesthetics" isn't a universal thing. Some people like the aesthetic of a water cooler, some like a big black air cooler. All depends on which aesthetic you like. "all blacked out" is an aesthetic just as much as "rgb everything" is.

>That premium is a before tax premium.

Yes... after taxes it's an extra dollar or three depending. $23.50 on a $2350 machine then... Most reasonable adults would assume "plus taxes" on things.

Ah ok

​

Step by step on how to do it? What fans do you get because I can't find any small fans like these or I'm just not smart looking for things like this?

​

Does any USB fan work?

Like this? https://www.amazon.com/AC-Infinity-MULTIFAN-Receiver-Playstation/dp/B00G05A2MU/ref=sr_1_17?hvadid=78065424219528&hvbmt=be&hvdev=c&hvqmt=e&keywords=usb+fan&qid=1567190144&s=gateway&sr=8-17

​

Do the fans blow inside the headset to keep you cool?

I wouldn't say need, but I would put another intake fan in for extra assurance. I recommend this or this one each with PWM so your motherboard regulates the fan speed.

I have these ones in my build in push/pull configuration. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07HC782D5/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Also I purchased my two 480 mm from Amazon used and they work awesome and appeared to be clean and in perfect condition.

Here is one 360 mm radiator for 58 dollars. https://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B078G4Q21K

And some others from 53 to 57 dollars. https://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B006097HEC

I like your idea of putting a fan as close as possible to the GPU's and I have an idea for it after opening my case and looking it over.

Idea There is another 140mm fan that exhausts up behind the CPU out the back of the case. I measured and a 140mm fan will fit here which should increase the air flow going onto the cards.

Fan I'm looking at is this

PAPST is a pretty common computer fan brand - I wouldn't worry too much about the brand.

For example on Amazon you can pick up a 120mm fan for $7.49:

https://www.amazon.com/ARCTIC-F12-Standard-Configuration-possible/dp/B002KTVFTE

Then pick up a 12V transformer for $10

https://www.amazon.com/CRJ-Power-Supply-4-Pin-Computer/dp/B071FNN9W7/ref=sr_1_fkmr3_1?keywords=case+fan+12v+transformer+kit&qid=1549654218&s=Electronics&sr=1-1-fkmr3

​

Under $20 and you're good to go.

Yep, the Ryzen integrated graphics are great when paired with fast RAM.

I changed to AMD, with a better hard drive and PSU added in.

For fans, it depends how much you want to spend. The Arctic F12 PWM PST are a great value for the price, while Noctuas are some of the best fans but cost way more.

PCPartPicker Part List

Type|Item|Price

----|:----|:----
CPU | AMD Ryzen 3 2200G 3.5 GHz Quad-Core Processor | $79.87 @ OutletPC
Motherboard | ASRock Fatal1ty B450 Gaming-ITX/ac Mini ITX AM4 Motherboard | $99.99 @ Newegg
Memory | G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 8 GB (2 x 4 GB) DDR4-3200 Memory | $46.99 @ Newegg
Storage | HP EX900 250 GB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive | $33.99 @ Amazon
Storage | Seagate Barracuda Compute 2 TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $54.89 @ OutletPC
Case | Cooler Master Elite 110 Mini ITX Tower Case | $49.98 @ Newegg
Power Supply | EVGA SuperNOVA GM 450 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular SFX Power Supply | $84.89 @ OutletPC
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total (before mail-in rebates) | $460.60
| Mail-in rebates | -$10.00
| Total | $450.60
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2019-10-05 14:19 EDT-0400 |

I thought most fans drew in the range of 3-5 watts under load? Is that fan perhaps an outlier or are those numbers not accurate? I just checked two on amazon and they draw 4.2W and 4.8W respectively. Maybe it's just because those are rgb ones but 3-5watts was a figure I saw everywhere.

Edit: It looks like the Noctua I use draws 6.6watts at load and some of their other 3k rpm fans draw up to 7.9watts. To truly get an accurate number here we'd have to know how the power draw scales as rpms decrease, I imagine it's not linear.

You mentioned using the Deepcool 360EX. That cooler would benefit a lot more from better fans than it would improved thermal paste.

https://www.amazon.com/ARCTIC-ACFAN00137A-Value-Pack-Pressure-Optimized/dp/B07HC782D5

I would get that 5 pack of fans (good for the money), and use NT-H1 paste. NT-H2 is only 2 degrees better than NT-H1, and only when you are cooling a couple hundred watts, which you probably aren't.

Suggestions on quiet case fans?

I just finished building a Ryzen 1800x / GTX 1070 Ti PC in a Fractal Nano S case. Things are pretty good, but the default Fractal case fans seem awfully noisy, particularly the 120mm exhaust at the back.

I tested it out, and I do need to run case fans: My CPU temp goes from 54C under prime95 with the fans on, to >68C with them off.

As per the above test with case fans unplugged, it is DEFINITELY the case fans making the noise and not something else.

That being said, I'd like some quieter fans.

Would Noctua A14 and S12 running off one 4 pin splitter for PWM control be a good choice?

Something different?

It wouldn't help too much with dust or thermals at that point, the only thing that'd help with dust is fan filters, and the only thing to significantly help with thermals is an AIO or custom loop. Your thermals are good, I'd leave them.

Honestly, just get some 120mm dust filters, [like this] (https://www.amazon.com/SilverStone-120mm-Filter-Grill-FF121/dp/B0036WTDHK) [or these] (https://www.amazon.com/ThreeBulls-Cooler-Filter-Dustproof-Computer/dp/B01N952K7P/ref=sr_1_4?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1517605154&sr=1-4&keywords=120mm+fan+filter).

Sorry if I'm way late on this, but I have the same case coming and also decided to up the RGB ante. I mean with the 011 dynamic I feel like it's a must.

These are pretty highly reviewed and much cheaper than the corsair offerings:
https://www.amazon.com/DEEPCOOL-RF120-3X120mm-Extension-Compatible/dp/B074P19HSL

thanks for the reply!

i only found one free 4 pin connector on the mobo so i just plugged both into the PSU. one fan slot is being taken by the chassis fan, and the other the cpu cooler. is there no way to control fans via SpeedFan?

would something like this click onto the cpu cooler?

Ok If leaving the side of your case off solves your overheating (DUST IT OUT ALSO), here is a bit of a shopping list

2x AF 120 for the fans $34 at frys. 25 on amazon


CX 550 Power Supply(Fry's PSU selection seems to suck) $50

Fan Splitter $5. I think you only have 1 fan power header on your mobo, this allows both to be attached to a single header.

Now all that is useful if you decide to start from scratch in the future, so if you were going for a all new build, you would be buying that anyways.

GPU's all appear to be sold out/super inflated price a FRYs. See how your's does with proper cooling. Or see how a 1050 Ti works for games you want to play (read forums/reddit related to that game)

I'll probably upgrade the fan to something which is more powerful like: http://www.amazon.co.uk/Scythe-Case-Gentle-Typhoon-D1225C12B5AP-15/dp/B001Q6RUVO/ref=sr_1_4?s=computers&ie=UTF8&qid=1452984161&sr=1-4 and put the carbon filter on the outside so that air is pushed out as exhaust

i'll also put in some of that ona gel or something in the case itself, by the exhaust, and i'll use a diy filter to do it http://www.rollitup.org/t/the-best-diy-ez-walmart-carbon-filter-for-micro-grows-zen-style.101248/

I'm looking into ur technique of growing it sideways, thanks so much for the help! btw did u link your lighting to the computers power supply, if so, how did you do it?

I'd get these
ARCTIC P12 PWM PST (Black/Black) Value Pack - Pressure-optimised 120 mm Fan with PWM and PST (PWM Sharing Technology) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07HC782D5/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_suzlDb2G37K2V

That case has a restrictive intake and pressurized fans would help with that. Also these are PWM so you can adjust to desired speed.

Actually paper towels tear up quite fast so you could have used anti-static (known) fabric of any kind instead to avoid towel splinters while cleaning. Also you should have used Q-Tip to clean delicate places within like Fans you shouldn't have blown air to, only within rotation direction from far away.

Assuming you're turning off and on your PC when needed (not always online), had a slightly lesser used PC which was "always on" for over 3 years (server stuff) and even it didn't accumulate the Dust you collected for that rig. So instead of just cleaning it out, you should focus on Filtering your inputs like this one other similar products you can find, even lady stockings fitted around a fan would it fine.

>reapplied new thermal paste

is pretty much the only reason for such decrease in temperatures where cleaning helps yet if you only had cleaned without new thermal paste, you couldn't have gotten those results. CPU fan would start resonating if this wasn't there before the cleaning, congratulations as you broke your fan that it'll sooner or later repeat such with "increasing" noise to the point of being unbearable until you finally replace it.

Fans are the most Fragile thing within whole PC except static electricity. Because they mostly have Fluid Bearing that can't withstand external pressure on any wrong direction (especially from Air Dusters) so that they first begin to resonate/noise than to cause all sorts of problems later on, been there.

As last words, change the place of that PC as where it was is the reason dust got sucked in by fans.

And to top every single one of those recommendations that ss1gohan13 made: Scythe Gentle Typhoon AP-15. Best radiator fan out there on the market. Bar none.

I found some good fan solutions for media cabinets by AC Infinity on Amazon. Just got one of these for my receiver and I love it. It is currently unavailable due to one of their shipments having some issue with a noise, but I have no issue. Hopefully it will be back in stock soon so I can get another one. They've got some interesting products...link.

That is your issue, I would suggest you get a two pack of case fans and add them to the front of your case as an intake. That will greatly improve your temps. These are a great option for a good price.

https://www.amazon.com/Corsair-AF120-Quiet-Twin-Pack/dp/B007RESG7G/ref=sr_1_fkmr1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1495081447&sr=8-1-fkmr1&keywords=corsair+af120+two+pack

Ok cool, thanks for the advice! I was planning to pick up these https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0026ZPFCK/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

Mostly since I have prime and can get them sooner, but I imagine going for 140mm fans would be better in the long run. I'm not sure how much I plan to push the overclocking, if at all, but I think it really wouldn't hurt to have better airflow, no matter what I do.

I agree about the fans, I bought some of these DEEPCOOL RF120 3in1 3X120mm... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074P19HSL? you might be able to find them in 140mm, the colors look fantastic and they are compatible with aura sync.

Edit: it looks like the fans you picked might not be aura sync compatible, since your motherboard supports aura sync I would suggest getting fans that can use the header.

Oh, i have not checked their website for specs. Thanks!

Also when saying 120/140mm would that mean i can either fit a 120mm or 140mm? I also might get 2 corsair fans which are http://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Series-AF120-Edition-CO-9050002-WW/dp/B007RESG7G/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top
Where should i place these 2? Would putting one on bottom and one on top work?
What cheap case fans do u recommend?

that battery tray you linked doesnt seem to be wired up. maybe this is more what you're looking for?

https://www.amazon.com/Sackorange-Battery-Storage-Plastic-1x18650/dp/B071JBRYF3/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=18650+battery+tray&qid=1551039435&s=gateway&sr=8-2

instead of a 12" tube i'd buy something flat that you can just curl up and insert into the cylinder.

the cooling fans just look like PC case fans. almost every PC guy would recommend Noctua fans for cooling a PC, here's a nice small 80mm that i think would work well, and a controller

https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-NF-A8-FLX-Premium-Computer/dp/B00NEMG9K6/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?keywords=pc+80mm+fan&qid=1551039869&s=gateway&sr=8-2-spons&psc=1&smid=A1Z5H6ZGWCMTNX

https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-NA-FC1-4-pin-PWM-Controller/dp/B072M2HKSN/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=pc+case+fan+controller&qid=1551039926&s=gateway&sr=8-4

and i did find some aparently suitable wire, in multiple colors so you can coordinate your color rails.

https://www.amazon.com/StrivedayTMFlexible-Silicone-Electric-electronic-electrics/dp/B01LH1G2IE/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_2?keywords=silicon+allterm+wire&qid=1551039773&s=gateway&sr=8-2-fkmr0

​

I have an r5 for my rig, best thing is to ditch the stock fans and get some that move some serious air. I outfitted mine with noctuas' redux, 2 in the front and one in the back (also great for radiators) and then set a custom fan curve in the bios.

Fan filters like these are pretty popular.

What's your budget, what's your color scheme? Anything low-end I'd probably go with Arctic F12's; they have the best noise to unrestricted airflow of pretty much any fan. If you have more money to spare, probably a dual pack of Corsair ML120's.

I had the same issue. A fan helped 100%. Specifically this fan:

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B012CL2V3I/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

with these powering it:
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GXJGFCY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01G47U2Z0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


My wineador had no fluctuation between top and bottom when the top and bottom rows are relatively clear. Since then i stacked it with boxes and its not perfect, but a WHOLE lot better than just the internal fan.

I also noticed that the amount of humidity leaving the fridge due to condensation has decreased, I think because this is blowing right across where it condenses, putting it back into the air.

pc-kombo shared list

Type|Item|Price

----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel Core i5-8400 | 204.90€ @ caseking
Motherboard | Asus PRIME Z370-P | 139.99€ @ Amazon.de
Memory | Team Group T-Force Nighthawk, rote LED, DDR4-3000, CL16 - 16 GB Kit (16 GB) | 167.60€ @ jacob
Storage | WD Blue WD10EZEX (1 TB) | 43.95€ @ reichelt
SSD | SanDisk Plus 240GB TLC (240 GB) | 82.99€ @ Amazon.de
Video Card | Palit GeForce GTX 1060 JetStream | 271.00€ @ Amazon.de
Power Supply | Corsair VS Series VS450 (450 W) | 36.98€ @ Amazon.de
| Total | 957.00€
| Generated by pc-kombo 03.11.2017 |

This is a build that tries to guess a bit which components will be the right pick if you buy that late. The 8400 is a bit faster than the Ryzen processors, and it should be available till then. However, there might be more fitting locked mainboards till then, or other changes I can't predict. You should report back shortly before buying to see whether the build still holds up.

If you want to to buy right now a Ryzen 5 1600 on an AM4 board is more reasonable, like in this build: https://www.pc-kombo.com/share/B12MPnb8

As for the fans, the Arctic F12 PWM PST fans have a great price-silence-performance: https://www.amazon.de/ARCTIC-F12-PWM-Fl%C3%BCsterleiser-Geh%C3%A4usel%C3%BCfter/dp/B002QVLBM2

Their naming scheme is so difficult to understand, there's like af-a, af-f, af-p, and like others as well. Is this one good for a rad? Or are there better ones? https://www.amazon.ca/Bearing-Cooling-NF-P14s-Redux-1500-PWM/dp/B00KF7O58G/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1480741346&sr=8-7&keywords=noctua

I printed as one piece, there were a few artifacts but nothing too bad that I couldn't get with sanding, on a CR10 with some upgraded fans and ducts
With those I was able to do some really long bridging that made the round bottom turn out pretty well
fang
gantry attachment
40mm fan
radial fan

Lol I was on Amazon looking at the NH- D15 custom shield covers . The black set and white set and also the black with color combo add ons. I’m tempted to go with the White not sure yet. You don’t need to switch . Just get the covers for it and switch to Chromax fans. Noctua NF-A15 HS-PWM chromax.Black.swap, Premium Quiet Fan, 4-Pin (140mm, Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07654B9MR/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_1Gv0DbH7RZCYM. NOCTUA NA-HC2 chromax.Black heatsink Cover (for NH-U12S, NH-U12S TR4-SP3 & NH-U12S SE-AM4) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07656C52K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_QIv0DbG0Z7NAW

also...if you just wanted to keep the cabinet there, but vent the cabinet, ive had success with something like this...I keep all my wifi stuff in a cabinet and just vent it out with these.

https://www.amazon.com/AC-Infinity-AIRPLATE-Cooling-Cabinets/dp/B009CO543S/ref=pd_sbs_60_t_1/142-2336418-4245855?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B009CO543S&pd_rd_r=495722af-bb61-4195-9b31-8d5b9e18ad2c&pd_rd_w=uuSOy&pd_rd_wg=aSm3b&pf_rd_p=5cfcfe89-300f-47d2-b1ad-a4e27203a02a&pf_rd_r=8VPX8PWZKZ09F9Q1S282&psc=1&refRID=8VPX8PWZKZ09F9Q1S282

Denon recommends at least 5" of space on top and 2" on either side. There is no way I can get space on sides in this entertainment center. Not sure how to deal with this.

The amp is for bass shakers in my couch. I like it better here than next to my couch.

Edit: I guess placing a fan like this AC Infinity Fan on top of the receiver as an exhaust would help. But I don't know from where the receiver takes its air. If it's from the sides, then I'll still have a airflow problem.

So cooling is pretty simple.

You just want to add a fan to create some airflow through the cabinet.
Ideally you would have 2 fans - one that is an intake on one side and the other an exhaust fan on other side and the air will flow across (this might work by going from the bottom of your cabinet through to back). If that is impossible for your setup, one fan will probably work just fine too for your scenario - if you can have some ventilation into the cabinet where the air will flow through instead of just being pulled out from a vacuum that's even better.

Some things you could look at:

http://www.amazon.com/Antec-Profile-Component-Theater-Products/dp/B000QJ4ZE2

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009CO543S/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_dp_ss_1?pf_rd_p=1535523722&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B000QJ4ZE2&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=0P9J1AB9MCMC7VEE55JZ

The cheapest and most flexible option would be to just buy some PC fans and install them, but these pre-made ones aren't expensive either.

Yeah, the BIOS only let's me apply a max of 12V to the fan.

Also, would two of these on a single header work? -- https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00H3T1KBE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The box they come in lists them as 0.25 amps.

Would they both work like normal? Or would they only work half as well?

>All black case fans

On the cheap side, Arctic P12/P14 (10-12$ or 5 for like 35-40$) can do the trick. Otherwise, Fractal Design has good ones in the GP-12/14, (20$) and HF/HP series (closer to 30) are quite nice.

>Any alternatives? Anywhere else I can buy them? Anyone know why the price increase, are they just not going to be selling them anymore and that's just the last stock?

Considering they're in Germany, I'd guess their situation is the same as Cryorig: trade war has affected their ability to sell in North America, and so their products are harder to come by.

E: Amazon seems to have one SilentWings 140 in Warehouse deals for 21-ish $

Apparently not, after doing some research I found that it is highly recommended.

​

Any recommendations on a fan controller? Heres what I found with some googling

​

Then for purchasing a back fan, would any 120 MM fan do? like this one?

I know they make some of their models in black, but they're usually more expensive. They look like this, but they aren't available from Amazon in the UK. You could try Newegg, if you're interested.

And if you don't like the brown bits in the corners you can remove them but they're actually the sound dampeners and they work really well.

Yeah, I found a 1U vent piece I'm going to grab two of those and put on each side of the cabinet

Something like this -
http://images.canford.co.uk/Images/ItemImages/large/16-927_01.jpg

Or if I start adding more stuff I might get a case fan and put that on the cabinet -
http://www.amazon.com/AC-Infinity-AI-CFD120BA-Quiet-Cabinet/dp/B009CO543S

It's going to be stained black so the pieces will blend in nice.

From what I've read, I agree. I don't mind paying the premium for style, but I don't want it to hobble my build when it comes time to overclock. Also, no USB-C, among other basic features in that price tier.

EDIT: Hey, /u/Computerknight54, just to follow up with this, I ordered the Taichi z370 and two Noctua 140mm fans for the front of the case. I'll run one 120mm exhaust fan in the back (and maybe one on the top?), and I'll be returning the RGB fans to save about $80 in total! Thanks again for commenting.

I randomly bumped my finger into the heatsink on a HP H220 during a burn in process and discovered that it was extremely hot... I did some researching and saw some people encountered corrupted files and they traced it back to their card overheating. I attached a Noctua (40mm?) or any fan to my network and expander cards. I used 2 mini zip ties daisy chained to one another on each side of the fan (4 total). I read that the 9201/9211 runs considerably cooler than the HP H220, so normal Norco airflow might be enough to cool it. I didn't check how hot the expander card got since it wasn't installed yet, but I wanted to cover all corners and have peace of mind. A Noctua is probably overkill vs other fans, but I didn't mind paying extra.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071W93333/

the H500 doesn't come with a fan controller and the Motherboard only has two Fan headers, CPU and Case fan.


The good news is you have two options:

1. Get a Fan Controller for the PC Case. I've purchased This silvertone 8 fan-hub - connects to the mobo PWM header and it controls all the fans based on that. Drawback is it considers all of those fans as 1 fan, but it controls them all still and requires external power via an extra SATA power cord.
   
   
2. For half the price Noctua makes a set of decent PWM Splitters, that just give 1 extra fan header. Found here.

Will this graphics card be an issue to fit into this case? I am also planning on using case fans in the front. If this case would be too small, is there another for around the same price range that is just as good? I also looked into the NZXT H500, however, it has a closed front, which I figured would increase temps.

Edit: This is the CPU cooler I also plan on using.

Playing a 6 ohm speaker on a 8 ohm setting on my Onkyo-8020. It tends to get pretty hot when I'm jamming.
Would purchasing a fan like this and placing it horizontally ontop of the receiver be recommended?
edit: maybe even get two of them?

I built a cabinet for the noise isolation, since I work in the same room as my printer. I only print PLA, but it's definitely been worthwhile just in the noise reduction alone. Pics here: http://imgur.com/a/5ik2k

Parts:

Cabinet exhaust fan (not installed yet, but will be able to monitor the temp in the cabinet, and if it gets too high, the fan can kick on and start removing some of the hot air): https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009CO543S

Shelf legs:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B015R2NIHC

Relay box (rPi controls power to lights and printer via GPIO):
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00WV7GMA2

Door hinges: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01BFW3FA8

Door: http://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/90291858/

Lights: http://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/20119418/

I can't seem to find the Stuva cabinet that I bought. They used to have two sizes - one that was shallow and one that was deep enough for the Maker Select. The latter is no longer on their site, but basically just go to Ikea and pick out a cabinet that will accommodate your printer. The rest is really just porcelain to make things a tad nicer for you.

They have the same drives inside (all of them are SMR). In addition to the USB ports mentioned, the Backup Plus also has a 2 year warranty compared to the Expansions 1 year. Yea they both get hot, all external drives get hot. They're sitting in a plastic box with no active airflow, of course they'll get hot. Get something like this for it if you ever want to run it hard:

https://www.amazon.com/AC-Infinity-MULTIFAN-Control-Receiver/dp/B012CL2V3I/ There's not enough ventilation area for a regular fan, so a loud blower is really the only effective solution. Just switch it off when temps reach normal levels.

They'll be fine powered on all the time in normal situations, the temperature only becomes worrisome if they're transferring at full speed for a prolonged amount of time. They stay under 45c otherwise, which is warm but acceptable.

If you can, buy the chromax.Black.swap kit. Two of this + this. If you like black, OFC. It will look awesome! I am planning to buy this soon, but it'll cost me around 300 USD due to living in Brazil =/

​

I'll personally be buying:

1x https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B076569Y8X

2x https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07657VBQQ

1x https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07654B9MR

​

And doing a 140 center + 120 on each side. It works great!

>Can you explain your buckets air flow and air filtration?

My bucket has two passive 120mm intakes that are covered with mesh filters and a single 120mm exhaust in the lid that connects to a 4" flange with dryer ducting. There is a 4" 190 CFM In-Line fan connected to a 4x12 Carbon Filter. I also have a variable fan controller on the in-line fan. I run mine at about half power.

>What do you have your plant in? Planter and soil on the bottom of bucket ect?

I use a 5g nursery pot. For my next grow I will be switching to a smart pot to avoid it getting rootbound.

>I was thinking of extending a 5g bucket under the brute can so the soil is under the setup and the plant itself is in the brute only allowing more space to grow.

If you're gonna do that you're better off getting one of those 5g DWC setups. With that said, I'd advise against doing that. Reason being is you add another layer of complexity in that you have to figure out how to support the brute and you run risks with light leaks. This also puts the brute much higher than you are which can make servicing/watering awkward.

I just have mine sitting on the bottom of the bucket in the pot. The newer style Brutes cause you to lose a few inches but if you can budget to buy two of them and use one as a spacer, it works well.

>Would that work or would I have an issue with temperature difference between roots and plant?

I am not experienced enough to say yay or nay but I doubt it?

1 small fan was the difference between my receiver being too hot to touch during movies and ice cool. They even make ones that sit on top of the receiver horizontally and blow air out the back (this one).

I keep it on low all the time and you cant even hear it when everything is off, so i didn't bother with the temperature sensor. Cheaper to just replace the fan if it dies after a few years lol.

It's a Noctua NH-D15S. It normally has a brown reddish/beige fan and uncovered heatsinks.

I bought a second fan to replace it and bought the heatsink covers as well.

​

Links for you:

Heatsink covers (there's different color styles too):

• Manufacturer info
  
• Newegg
  
• Amazon
  
  ​
  
  ​
  
  Replacement fan:
  
  
• Manufacturer info
  
• Newegg
  
• Amazon

these are pretty popular, I had to get one for an intake fan I modded onto my case (pos didn't have one trololol)

although you might be looking for something even finer, in which case that swiffer pad idea mobomelter suggested is intriguing

Don't run an extension cord into your shower.

I'd suggest cutting a piece of coroplast to fit the open window, and then make a round hole in the coroplast to fit something like:

A USB fan run from a phone-recharging battery-pack

An O2COOL battery fan with rechargeable batteries

An automotive aux cooling fan run from a 12v battery pack (such as a pack for radio-control model cars)

Since the igpu is sealed in with cpu, you gain by having fewer moving parts: just one cpu fan, no extra gpu fan, so that should help durability and save cost on fan replacement.

Re: ball-bearing fans: lately I have seen new technology fans:

• Magnetic bearing (magnet lifts fan up a bit so less friction when spinning I think?)
  
  
• hydro-bearing (fluid acts as bearing, also less friction)
  
  Both of these should last longer then mechanical bearing fans in heat and humidity (I think), but are more expensive.

There are a few options for easy lighting:

• LED fans (example)
  
• LED strips (example)
  
• NZXT HUE (if it ever comes back in stock)
  
  Those are all pretty straightforward. Fans just install where you've got fans, strips either go on the monitor, keyboard, or outside/inside the edges of the case. Hue is similar to the strips but is powered internally.
  
  You can get a little more complex with things like Cold Cathode tubes.

Do you happen to know whats the fastest 120mm fans can spin; running on just USB power? Is it possible to tweak existing USB fan like these ones to spin faster and still be safe? My apologies, I have zero experience in electronics.

Haha I actually posted there already asking about the Sentry 2's compatibility with these. Are there any fan controllers that you can recommend aside from the Sentry 2?

Alrighty then, your epic pain skills have convinced me haha

Which of these would you recommend? Keep in mind the Phantom has a built in fan controller in it.

This one

This one

Or this one

I wanted all my fans to be PWM (4 pin) so I could control them from software. So I will not use any of the fans that come with the case. I was going to buy Noctuas, but I just couldn't justifying $80-100 for case fans. These arctic ones seem like a good middle ground.

Actually PC part picker didnt have the exact ones I ordered. These are the ones I have coming.

I changed my fans out to aftermarket for looks.

Out and In: Fan

Out side: Fan

PWM Radiator fan: Fan

Overall, the noise didn't change much, but it fit the red theme I have and increased air flow. I have the black and red version of this case by the way.

Looking to replace the CPU fan on my Hyper 212 since it has a clicking noise, and add a second fan to the heatsink while I'm at it.

Doesn't need to be fancy RGB, blue LED would be enough. So far I'm liking these, any other suggestions to look at for PWM 120mm fans?

Best thing I could find is [this] (https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B01ETUCBO4/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A3P5ROKL5A1OLE), which I will say looks quite nice.

Problem is no fans :/. Would you say getting two of [these] (https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B002KTVFTE/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?ie=UTF8&smid=A3P5ROKL5A1OLE&th=1) and using [this] (https://www.amazon.co.uk/StarTech-Power-Splitter-Cable-TX3SPLIT12/dp/B002DY7M1G/ref=pd_bxgy_147_img_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=BBT6EMJHAPP9JETA1HN3) to connect both to my planned mobo.

Sound good?

Sounds like you need case fans, if I'm reading this corectly. You will need at least one intake fan and one exhaust fan, mounted onto the case (CPU cooler doesn't count) in order to keep things cool.

Arctic cooling fans can be had for around $7 a piece. Amazon: http://www.amazon.com/ARCTIC-F12-Standard-Noise-Case/dp/B002KTVFTE/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1451964680&sr=8-3&keywords=Arctic+cooling+f12

I use this. It’s USB powered and I have it pulling the hot air away from my xb1x and PS4 Pro.

It works like a champ and has 3 speed settings, I keep it on medium.

AC Infinity AIRPLATE S7, Quiet Cooling Fan System 12" with Speed Control, for Home Theater AV Cabinets https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009CO543S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_9yfVAbX94EBGK

Looks nice.

I recently built in that Cooler Master Elite 110 case and it's nice and small. The 120mm case fan it came with is annoyingly loud though. I replaced it with this 140mm fan which has been much quieter.

Oh I see now what you mean.

Do you think I would be better off buying a whole new fan with actual 3-pin connectors that I can attach to the SYS_FAN header? Such as this http://www.amazon.co.uk/ARCTIC-AFACO-120P0-GBA01-F12-PWM-120mm/dp/B002QVLBM2/ref=cm_cmu_pg_t

instead of routing the 2 pin molex fan I currently have into the psu?

The Skylake i3 chip only has a 47W TDP (which is very low), so it's going to output very little heat, even when it's under load.

But if you want to dissipate the heat out of the case efficiently and make it very quite. You can go with this Noctua cooler and the Fractal 92mm exhaust fan.

You're also going to need a fan splitter the to connect to two case fans (1 included with the case).

Is all this necessary? No, but it'll do what you want it to do.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

Type|Item|Price

----|:----|:----
CPU Cooler | Noctua NH-L9i 57.5 CFM CPU Cooler | €39.71 @ Aquatuning
Case Fan | Fractal Design FD-FAN-SSR2-92 24.6 CFM 92mm Fan | €13.11 @ Amazon Deutschland
Other| Fan splitter | €5.90
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total | €58.72
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-07-28 20:29 CEST+0200 |

I use these Noctua units in my E300-9A. They are 12V PWM and work perfectly in my system. They might not provide the pressure you need to cool a Xeon, I mostly get away with it because my unit is Atom derived.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071W93333

I need to experiment to see what fan exactly is causing the noise when i'm home today. Also not sure what model the PSU is right now.

PSU / Case: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B010HDQSWI

Rear fan: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00H3SWJ24/

Front Fan: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B002QVLBM2/

That's no problem, pretty sure I can still return it to amazon.

I let my 11 year old do it. Super easy. Here's what I used. Got 1 splitter and 2 fans.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N0XQ7XC/ref=sspa_dk_detail_4?psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00H3T1KBE/ref=psdc_11036291_t2_B00OP2PUB8

The dimensions of the box are 17in x 7.5in
The switch, potentiometer, and display was all one piece which was sourced from amazon. It’s in a previous post of mine on this page.

I had to use a different potentiometer than the one from the kit. The top plywood for the box was too thick for the knob to reach so swapped it out for these (https://www.amazon.com/Uxcell-a15011600ux0213-Linear-Rotary-Potentiometer/dp/B0171M5SRE)

The fans were two of these (https://www.amazon.com/ARCTIC-F12-Standard-Configuration-possible/dp/B002KTVFTE)

The magnets were bought off eBay. (Rare earth magnets, neodymium)

Washers for spacing the magnet from the fan were already owned.

Used clear epoxy for any gluing that was needed.

12v dc power plug, which was an old cell phone charger. I split the power supply to both PWM speed controllers.

That’s it for parts!

Just wanted to update with what I did. I bought one of these fans with a built in case (link). Before I installed it I ran a game on the PS4 inside the cabinet and it was running around 100 deg F. After I installed the fan and ran the fan on low (aka quiet) speed, the temp in the cabinet dropped to 80F. So I call that a success!

You'll need something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-NA-SYC1-Accessory-4-pin-Y-Cables/dp/B00KG8K5CY

Or maybe even a fan hub if you'd like: https://www.amazon.com/SilverStone-System-Cables-Black-CPF04/dp/B00VNW556I/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_147_bs_img_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=Q856YNEVZV2G77SQY13A


Do the 3 fans that shipped with the case have a 3 pin or 4 pin cable?

Yes, it's absolutely possible! The Crosshair VI has 3 chassis fan connectors, but each one is capable of driving multiple fans. With your layout, I would run the top and rears fans on their own connections, then get a 1-3 PWM splitter cable like this one to run your front 3 fans. Only one of the three will report RPM to the mobo, but all three will be controlled via PWM based on the one fan's RPM. I am running 3 120mm LED fans using this splitter cable and my Crosshair VI has no trouble delivering adequate power.

the cable you linked is a fan splitter.

you plug one end onto the mobo 4 pin, and plug up to 4 fans on the other end. the molex is for additional power incase the 4 pin cannot provide enough.

this will work. depending on your mobo, the pwm in bios may not work very well, so i like to use a fan controller such as this.

https://www.amazon.com/Zalman-Fan-Speed-Controller-FANMATE-2/dp/B000292DO0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1482355852&sr=8-1&keywords=fan+controller+zalman

you will still need a fan splitter as well.

I keep all my consoles in my TV cabinet slots. Like others though I would not recommend doing it without adding in at the very least some vents. I went a bit further and cut a hole in the back and added this USB PC Fan to improve the air flow.
https://smile.amazon.com/AC-Infinity-MULTIFAN-Receiver-Playstation/dp/B00G05A2MU/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1479563281&sr=8-4&keywords=usb+pc+fan

I also use one in the slot for my receiver. They work very well.

Dust in the PC will increase temperatures... so its better if you dont have it

You can use compressed air cans to clean it up once in a while, or get dust filters like these ones

https://www.amazon.com/SilverStone-120mm-Filter-Grill-FF121/dp/B0036WTDHK

https://www.amazon.com/Filter-Plastic-Dustproof-Computer-140x140mm/dp/B00NUOR2W2

https://www.amazon.com/Computer-Air-Filter-Polyurethane-Protects/dp/B000FJU8BC

Got a refurb of this from newegg a while back. i used to "idle" (20% cpu usage) at 50C. after installing this i dropped to 42ish. after delidding i went down to 35C, a fresh install of windows 10 to cleaar out driver issues i had (high cpu usage) im now down to 25C.

im using these nocturas instead of the fans that came with and i love it. now my max load 100% for an hour hits 49C on my 6700k

The front one is stock. I added two of these one on the side and one on the top, I love them. I also added two of these one to replace the exhaust fan on back side, and one to add to the heat sink for a push pull set up

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07HCKWF2X/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07HC782D5/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

These are the ones I used. So far I'm happy with them. I also put 3 of the 140mm in my wife's 3900X build in a Fractal R4. Working well. I returned the Noctua redux I originally bought for that one.

Do you not have any case fans installed? If that is the case then definitely install some. There are many different fans to choose from. I like these cheap but good Arctic F12 fans.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002KTVFTE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_eLi3DbJ7YBY2W

Yep they are! Well you've got a solid full tower case so I'd go:
Top: 2x 200mm.
Front: 1x 200mm.
Bottom: 2x 140mm .
Rear: 1x 140mm.
Side: 1x 200mm (leave the included one in here).

Noctua fans are known to be the best out there but don't come in 200mm. so grab 3x 140mm of either:

http://www.amazon.com/Premium-Quality-Technology-NF-A14-PWM/dp/B00CP6QLY6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1457741282&sr=8-1&keywords=noctua+fan+140mm

http://www.amazon.com/Bearing-Cooling-NF-A14-iPPC-3000-PWM/dp/B00KFCRF1A/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1457741282&sr=8-2&keywords=noctua+fan+140mm

And grab 3x 200mm: http://www.amazon.com/Cooler-Master-MegaFlow-200-Computer/dp/B008G3OLRQ/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1457741261&sr=1-1-spons&keywords=200mm+fan&psc=1