(Part 2) Reddit mentions: The best drain cleaners & pumps

Sorry I'm late to respond, but if you want to reply to someone, you need to click the "reply" link under their comment. Then add your comment as a reply to them, it will notify them you replied, and they'll know the reply is for them.

This reply is probably a bit long, lol. But I'm bored, so I go into some detail, and give some suggestions on tools n' such you can use for various things. You don't have to use them, obviously.

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• Yes, break down all the starches before fermenting. Yeast can't use starches, they will release some enzymes, but none that will break down starches. The enzymes that break down starches come from the grain itself, or you add them. This is why you do the iodine test after mashing, but before fermenting, it is testing for the presence of starches, if it's blue, than all the starches haven't been converted and the yeast won't turn those starches into alcohol. So you need to continuing mashing, maybe add enzymes if you haven't already.
  
  
• 2lbs of sugar should be enough for the batch.
  
  
• The barley does need to be milled. The distiller shop should be able to crush/mill it for you, or if there is a feed supply store nearby, they might be able to do it for you. But whole grains aren't going to work because the starches will be trapped inside. Grain seeds are essentially made up of 3 parts: bran, endosperm, and germ. The bran is the outer shell that protects everything but it also contains some vitamins, the endosperm is where the starches and enzymes are contained, and the germ is where the actual plant embryo is, as well as vitamins and fats are contained. Milling/crushing/grinding is what breaks that bran off, and will make the endosperm (starches and enzymes) available to be dissolved into the water. If that bran is still there, everything will be trapped inside.
  
  
• The enzymes I mentioned, you would add them before pitching (adding) the yeast, to help break down the starches in the grains. I would specifically add them at the 150F (65C) mark, that is within the safe temperatures for both of them. Glucoamylase will start to denature at 158F (70C), and alpha-amylase will start to denature at around 161F (72C), and if you didn't know, denatured enzymes (proteins) don't work anymore.
  
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  I do my mashing in a 5gal stainless steel pot, and I do my fermenting in these 5gal buckets (foodsafe from Home Depot). I use these lids, as it has an extendable spout which is the perfect diameter for a No. 7 size drilled rubber stopper, which I stick the airlock in.
  
  For the actual mashing process. I do the following. So, not far off from what you do, except the starting temperature, since going above 161F can damage some of your enzymes and slow things down. These steps haven't failed me yet.
  
  
• Heat the water up to 158F (70C)
  
• Add grains when it's at that temp or slightly below it.
  
• Let it cool down to 150F (65C), and hold it there for an 1h to 1.5h. But it has to stay at ~150F the entire time.
  
• Pull out the grains (which are in a brew bag, mentioned below).
  
• I personally do an iodine test at this point, before moving on to cooling. To see if there are any starches left over. If there is still starch, and I haven't added enzymes already, I will add enzymes, 1/2tsp each (alpha and gluco), and I'll hold it at 150F for another 30min.
  
• I let mine cool down to between 70F (20C) and 75F (24C), depending on the room temp. You can use an immersion chiller if you have one (I made mine, explanation below), or an ice bath, if you want to speed up cooling it down from 150F to 75F.
  
• Then pitch the yeast.
  
  I mix up the yeast culture as soon as I hit the 150F temp of the mash, by pouring the yeast (1tbsp) into 2cups of warm water with a pinch of sugar, a pinch of DAP (aka diammonium phosphate), and a pinch of Magnesium sulfate (aka epsom salt, I bought at walmart in a large jug). Then I just let it sit while the yeast rehydrates and starts doing it's thing. When the mash is down to around 80F, I pour that mash into a sanitized 5gal bucket, then when it hits between 75F to 70F, I pour the yeast mix into the mash in the bucket, close the lid, put in the stopper+airlock, and leave it alone for about 3 days, before I check on it.
  
  When I check on it, if it has slowed down significantly, or is stuck. I do the following:
  
  

1. I will check the temp, and warm/cool it if needed to get it back to between 70F (20C) and 75F (24C).
   
2. If the temp isn't off, I will check pH, if it's between 5 and 5.5, everything is good, if not I use citric acid (pull it down) or calcium carbonate (pull it up) to fix pH. Closer to 5 is better than closer to 5.5, ideally 5.2 to 5.5 is the best. Some people will use oyster shells and add them before pitching yeast, to act as a pH buffer. It does work, since they are essentially made up of calcium carbonate. I'd recommend soaking in water+bleach (10% solution, 10mL bleach, 90mL water) for 30min then rinsing under tap water, then letting them dry out, if you go this route, to make sure any bacteria are dead. Then you can put them in the ferment bucket in their own small brew bag, under the big brew bag, or in one of those stainless steel tea strainers, so you don't need to fish them out of the grains/trub afterwards which is a pain in the ass. Ideally, by the end of the ferment, if you don't want to distill it right away (within a few days), you can let the pH drop as low as 4, to stave off any bacterial infection.
   
3. If pH is fine, it usually means there isn't enough nutrients, so I will put in 1/2tsp of DAP, and 1/2tsp of Magnesium sulfate, for 5gal that is. Might have to adjust pH after adding those.
   
   That usually accounts for all the stuck fermentation issues.
   
   ===
   
   

• For my immersion chiller. I use a 72" length of uncoated corrugated stainless steel tubing I bought from Houzz, and then I bought a faucet to garden hose adapter, and 2 of these 3/4" NPT to garden hose adapters. So it goes Sink faucet > faucet adapter > garden hose > hose to NPT adapter > CSST > hose to NPT adapter > garden hose > tub drain. There are other ways to do it, but I had the CSST already just laying around unused. You could probably just buy a piece of copper pipe, bend it into a coil, stretch rubber tubing over each end, and then stretch one end over the faucet, and let the other end hang over the sink/tub drain. I prefer the immersion chiller to the ice bath, or just waiting around.
  
  
• I also don't know if you have what's called a brew bag, but it makes handling the grains easier. You put the bag in the bucket, then fill the bucket with your water, then pour the grains into the bag/bucket. Then when you are done, and want to take the grains out, you just lift out the bag, let it drain, you can squeeze the bag, or do whats call lautering where you pour water through it (you can put the bag in a large colander if you want to lauter), and voila. A lot easier than without the bag, and having to scoop all the grains out. This is the one I have, you can see what I was describing in the photos.
  
  
• Some people like to do what is called distilling "on grain", where they will pour the entire mash, with some grains or all the grains, into the distillation boiler. But if you aren't using a jacketed boiler, you run the risk of burning the grains, which adds an acrid taste and can ruin things. I don't do this, I use an immersion heater in my boiler, so I distill "off grain", as I use the brew bag and pull the grains out before doing into the boiler.
  
  
• For controlling the mashing temperatures, I use a Sous Vide cooker that I own for cooking, it can go between 32F and 210F. Tons of them on Amazon these days, and with a bit of aluminum door screen around the openings to keep the big grains out, benefit of the sous vide is it will heat and stir for you. If it's too expensive for you now, Amazon always has deals on them for Black Friday/Cyber Monday, or for Xmas. But you can just keep adding hot water and stirring periodically as the temp drops, I've done that before too. Or you can use a hot plate, which I have also done. I've never used the stove top (electric), or a gas burner, but I imagine it's possible to do with that as well, but probably a bit more difficult. Whatever floats your boat, and works for you.
  
  ===
  
  Hope this helps!

Thanks for the update! The discharge pipe is 1.5 inches, pit is about 22 inches deep, 18 inches in diameter. The current pump has worked fine for ~10 years now, but the power outage ruined that streak. I just figured since the 3/4 was essentially the same price as the comparable 1/2 I would go with that, didn't realize the other factors to consider that you mentioned.

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I'm now debating on whether to go with a battery backup combo unit or water powered backup. Someone else recommended the Wayne WSS30V 1/2 HP Combination System which seems like it may be the perfect replacement. Looks like it recommends a 75Ah deep cycle battery. The one from Wayne is $270, but I found this Duracell Ultra Deep Cycle Battery for 12V Sump Pump for about ~$100. Would this be sufficient to use? That would put the system at about $550.

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The other option would be to get a solo 1/2 HP pump like this Wayne CDU800 and Liberty Pumps SJ10 water powered backup. Comes out to about $350, but that doesn't count for having a plumber install the Liberty, and I have no idea what that would roughly cost, maybe you would know?

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I think these are my two best options, just unsure on which route to go.

You can certainly do it on the same day, but here's what I tend to do. As I drink the bottle, it gets a cursory rinse (enough to keep fruit flies at bay) and ends up in a fastrack. When I have a few fastracks full of dirties, I fire up the washer, do a cycle of PBW, then a cycle of fresh water for the rinse. The bottles stay in the racks, sparkling clean but not sanitized, stacked up to dry (they can stack 5 high/120 bottles and still be pretty stable). When I get 6 or 8 full clean racks and am ready to bottle, I fire up the washer with sanitizer. They get about 30 seconds each on the with Saniclean(the low foam version of Starsan), then stacked back up to drip dry while I get everything else prepped.

When everything is good and ready to go, I set a rack into a full size steam table pan (local restaurant supply stores have the 2" tall pans for about $10), invert the whole thing and you have 24 clean and sanitized bottles, contained in a ready made drip tray and ready to go. Each bottle doesn't leave its place in the rack from the time it's first emptied, through the cleaning/storage/sanitizing cycle until it's just about to be bottled. I'm not sure of pump pressures, but the pump that comes with the Marks Keg Washer runs around 500 GPH and was enough to produce about a 4' head on all 24 nozzles. I purchased this one after using that for a few months, this produces enough pressure to soak my ceiling with all 24 nozzles: Superior Pump 91025

Here you go:

Main 1/2hp Pump
I initially had a Zoeller main pump which lasted for about 8 years until the "built-in" float switch died. I could have bought a new switch for it but the pump itself was old and I didn't want to risk it. I read reviews for the new Zoellers, Rigids, and Waynes and decided on the Wayne pump.

Backup Unit
I originally had a Watchdog unit which was 7 yrs old... I went with the Wayne backup based off of Amazon reviews when compared to others. The system includes a great backup pump compared to the crappy Watchdog unit.

Battery
Sorry, the battery was $139 shipped (not $100 as I mentioned). It's a sealed battery as well = no maintenance.

High Water Alarm I bought this inexpensive water sensor which comes with a ~6ft wire sensor

Check Valve: I also stayed away from the metal check valves because my old Zoeller check valve literally rusted apart from what I guess was from the humidity (my sump pump is located in a narrow closet). I went with a fully plastic/rubber one that my house flipping friend got from a plumbing supply store. I have the battery unit outside the closet because of this humidity build up.

Question
Which dedicated float switch are you using? One with a "rod"? Do you plan on using zip ties to hold the switch in the up/on position on your new pump?

Let me know if you have any questions. Good luck.

Thanks for the follow up, I'm most likely going to pull it out and just replace that last section.

I hadn't bought anything yet, I was basically looking to find a flange that might fit. I think one of the clamp on cast iron flanges might work but after pricing out a full replacement again (with PVC not ABS this time) the price difference isn't really worth the time I'm putting into trying to get around the replacement.

What I was looking at though were the PVC push in designs, had the ID fit. Or this style https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001REGQXI

But I have help coming to help pull out that heavy cast iron tomorrow to get started on this. Also planning on starting drywall this week as well if time allows, can't wait to at least have walls back up

No problem! A clarification to what u/Seppi449 said; I'm assuming they're actually talking about a hardened steel nozzle. This will allow the students to print with exotic filaments (wood fill, metal fill, glow in the dark, etc) without it damaging the soft brass nozzle. This upgrade is pretty cheap, and it will prevent constant replacements.

I personally would not recommend upgrading to an all metal hotend assembly. The uses for that are pretty small and they can cause a lot more issues for novice users, which I'm guessing many of the students are. When you get a new nozzle, make sure it doesn't specify it's for an all metal hotend. They are different and are not compatible.

You probably ought to also grab a bit of 2mm ID x 4mm OD teflon tubing. You need to replace the little bit of teflon tubing inside the hot end assembly periodically to help prevent jams and keep your printing smooth. The replacement piece is only about 1" long, so a roll like that will last forever. When you replace the existing tube, you want to make sure to keep the length as close to the original as possible, and keep your cuts 90º.

I hope this helps!

Fair enough. Is a flange like this not good enough? I've heard great things about this flange and figured that'd work well until we redo the bathroom.

I think I'll probably keep the pipe and do everything else about like you said. Also, would using plywood on top to bring the flange flush to the tile work or should it be mortar?

I've got a Waste King that replaced a 1/3 HP In-Sink-Er-Ater. Do yourself a favor and just go for a full 1 HP. Anything less, and you're shorting yourself. I got mine on an Amazon Gold Box deal for a decent price. And it's a lot quieter than the old one.

As far as replacing goes, it's fairly simple, even without plumbing experience (I did mine in maybe an hour or two, apart from the wiring, and that was because I was being meticulous). Save the old components, I reused the short bit of pipe connecting the old disposal to the plumbing.

I also changed from a hard-wired to a GFCI outlet. It's not that hard to do... Just put the wires into a GFCI outlet (maybe $15 at your home improvement store) in a metal junction box (a few bucks), properly grounded, screwed into the cabinet with a face plate ("Leviton" style for most/all GFCI). Test the polarity to ensure you've got it right (honestly don't remember what I did, but hooked everything up according to the diagram), tested it, etc.

All in all, maybe 3-4 hours for a complete novice like me. It's been going strong for quite a while now, and the GFCI gives a decent measure of safety in case something leaks or goes wrong.

Waste King (and possibly others, but I have no experience with others) have putty-less installs, at least for stainless sinks. Just a gasket, a collar, and a fairly simple snap-connect fitting. If you have a dishwasher, be sure to punch the plug out for the connector for that to hook up the overflow. But most/all of that will be in the directions for hooking up the disposal. It really is a fairly fool-proof set of instructions. Especially if you have any mechanical ability at all. If you don't... call a friend. If you're in MD, PM me and we can work out something...

This is the disposal I ended up with. It's pretty decent, handles whatever I throw at it. Admittedly, it's less than I used to throw at the old disposal since changing my diet, but it has yet to back up or clog. And still is quieter than the older 1/3 HP one. Plus, lifetime warranty...

Sorry for the late reply, I'm probably the only one who checks this sub. I have a double IBC tote setup, with this pump: https://www.amazon.com/Shurflo-2088-594-154-2088-Diaphragm-Industrial/dp/B0001FAA5Y/ref=sr_1_fkmr2_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1499722510&sr=8-1-fkmr2&keywords=in-line+water+pump+shurflo

With a couple of in-line filters: this on on the pump inlet: https://www.amazon.com/SHURFLO-255-315-Swivel-Water-Strainer/dp/B002XM3IP2/ref=pd_sim_60_8?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B002XM3IP2&pd_rd_r=YQ8Y2Y060CD2PTJX5HB0&pd_rd_w=RXwRJ&pd_rd_wg=dIo1a&psc=1&refRID=YQ8Y2Y060CD2PTJX5HB0

And this one (I think) on the IBC outlet: https://www.amazon.com/Female-Strainer-mounting-stainless-screen/dp/B00CH18YFS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1499722741&sr=8-1&keywords=inline+strainer


I think my long hose is 100ft. Is there a lot of head? What kind of sprinkler is it? How large of an area do you want to cover?

I have a sprinkler similar to this one that works pretty well, probably covers around 12x12ft? https://www.amazon.com/Sprinkler-medium-watering-troubleshooting-Needed/dp/B01HB1NVH4/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1499722821&sr=8-6&keywords=sprinkler

I've used it with another sprinkler like this, but there are too many holes, so not enough pressure https://www.amazon.com/Gilmour-Light-Circle-Pattern-Sprinkler/dp/B000KL17BU/ref=sr_1_47?ie=UTF8&qid=1499722890&sr=8-47&keywords=sprinkler

I've used them in two areas in my yard with about an 8ft difference in head. Neither were effected much by the head difference.

At work we have 3 ~800gal cisterns for our plant nursery. We have a pump similar if not the same model as this one which we use for the normal back-and-forth style lawn sprinklers. It works great, but again very little head. I think we might be able to run two sprinklers at a time with this one. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002YVPSK?ref=emc_b_5_i

>I don’t know about you, but showering generally takes a good chunk out of my morning.

If it's taking a good chunk out of someone's morning then they're being slow as hell. A Navy shower takes less than 2 minutes and uses very little water. It's even easier when you have an on/off valve so you don't have to readjust the temp two different times. This one's only $10, plus another $4 or so for some teflon tape.

https://www.amazon.com/K1140B-Shower-Shut-Off-Polished-Chrome/dp/B00HSWPYIG

These valves can save a lot of water without needing to go dirty.

>Here’s one you may not have heard of: according to Modern Alternative Mama, showering too often can prevent your body from synthesizing the vitamin D you get from the sun.

and

>Vitamin D, as a fat-soluble vitamin, is made in the oily layer of your skin. It is then slowly absorbed over 2 – 3 days. If you shower everyday and use soap, you will wash this oily layer off your skin and will not absorb the vitamin D you just made!

Vitamin D is made when sunlight hits 7-dehydrocholesterol (7-DHC) which is made in the wall of the intestines and then is transported to the skin. (https://www.jidonline.org/article/S0022-202X(15)34937-X/fulltext)

It's found mostly in the 2 inner-most layers of epidermis. Melanin can prevent sunlight from getting to 7-DHC, and since you can't wash off melanin it should be obvious that you also can't wash off 7-DHC. The only way showering can affect the production of Vitamin D is if you don't take them often enough and have enough dirt on you to block sunlight.

That being said, showering is something that different people have to do at different frequencies. Someone who works manual labor will need to shower more often than someone with a desk job and a car with working A/C. While it is a good thing to not waste resources, this article is full of ridiculousness.

Went through the same thing this past summer. Here's what I bought:

Pump: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000X07GMW/

Hoses: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00UH2SZLC/

5 gallon bucket from Home Depot

Vinegar from Costco: https://www.costcobusinessdelivery.com/Four-Monks-Distilled-White-Vinegar%2C-1-Gallon%2C-2-ct.product.11073510.html - came in a 2-pack in store. I think I ended up using both. Didn't dilute with anything.

I'm guessing you're probably watching some of the same videos that I did. Instructions were pretty easy to follow. Hardest part for me was nailing down the gear I had to buy to make my own kit. Everything mentioned above did the trick though. Hope that helps!

I would recommend going with something with a higher flow rate than your usual pond pump. I use a submersible utility pump with pretty good results. The flow rates and power of a utility pumps are better suited for pushing water through the 25+ feet length of an IC.

https://www.amazon.com/Takagi-T-KJr2-Indoor-Tankless-Natural/dp/B0057X27OC

I'm not near there but I'd bet someone on here is. This is the Takagi tankless, I've installed several of these, they are super easy. $532 for the tankless + about $100 for the valves and pex.

> Ahh okay yes that makes sense, what do you usually use for insulation?

Foam pipe insulation works well, or a few wraps with Reflectix works well. Reflectix also looks really nice, taped up with foil HVAC tape.

Sorry the terminology is mixed up on my end. I had been on a motorcycle board and was thinking about something else. I meant a sillcock key. I was in a fog of antibiotics and codeine when I replied. :)

http://www.amazon.com/Jones-Stephens-J40-005-Four-Way/dp/B000DZKYVC

Check out this video on why it's helpful. It's a great addition to your filter, especially if you're in any kind of urban area. Once you start looking for these kind of water sources, they are all over

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ygfv-nkvjxU

What exactly is this pumping out? Is there a french drain under your basement? Just trying to confirm this isn't an ejector pump.

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EDIT:

This seems like an easy DIY and had good reviews:

https://www.amazon.com/Wayne-ESP25-Upgraded-12-Volt-Battery/dp/B07GJXRZ1V/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=sump+pump+battery+backup&qid=1567991829&s=gateway&sr=8-4

Pretty sure this is what you're after

LDR 530 2050 Faucet to Hose or Aerator Adapter Lead Free https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BHZLR4K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_mVAKzbPBW7GZP

Here are some Reddits that may provide you with additional information.

/r/bicycletouring

/r/Bushcraft

/r/CampFireCooking

/r/DumpsterDiving

/r/entomophagy

/r/foraging

/r/mycology

/r/survival

/r/Whatisthisplant

/r/whatisthismushroom

Equip yourself with items that will keep you dry and warm in all kinds of weather.

You need water and a means to carry it, sterilize it and acquire it.

Be able to cook food and make hot drinks. You need to be able to acquire food using multiple options.

Free first aid training.

Free map and compass course.

Get in good physical condition.

I'm looking into going electric for my 2 gallon all grain batches. I don't want to drop a few hundred dollars on a new kettle and induction cooktop, as of right now. Also living in an apartment, so I can't go 240v.

Would a water heater element this size get a good boil on 3 gallons of wort?

Using a 5 gallon boil kettle, FYI. Thank you!

I've installed two of the Takagi T-KJr. They're built like tanks, have been around forever, and are pretty efficient. They're also pretty inexpensive ($500-$600). I'm up in Wisconsin, so if this heater can keep up with our crazy delta Ts in single bath houses, I know it'll be able to keep up with your needs just fine. There are some larger heaters from other companies like Triangle Tube and Rinnai that are good, but they are much more expensive or oversized for what you need.

I'm not good with flow calculations but one thing you may want to check on is if this pump will push enough water through the chiller. The water going through any chiller should have a high flow to be more effective.

This pump is more money but only about $50 which isn't bad at all. Much higher rate of flow.

https://www.amazon.com/Superior-Pump-91330-Utility-HP/dp/B000X07GQS?ref_=Oct_BSellerC_680335011_1&pf_rd_p=0044a74c-4cac-5fa0-a996-629c25ae8078&pf_rd_s=merchandised-search-6&pf_rd_t=101&pf_rd_i=680335011&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=DQKKZDPHXNHAXHBX4RMT&pf_rd_r=DQKKZDPHXNHAXHBX4RMT&pf_rd_p=0044a74c-4cac-5fa0-a996-629c25ae8078

I brew 5 gallon batches in a 10.5 gallon kettle, and I brew outdoors on a 65,000 BTU burner. I use this false bottom so I can direct fire during the mash. I modulate the amount of heat manually, the amount I need to re-heat the mash depends on weather and how often I pull the lid off.

I also use this pump to recirculate during the mash, it really helps keep the temps even throughout and it gives me a nice boost in efficiency.

You could do things like you're planning but I would add in a water-valve to cut the water in addition to the power (you want to cut both so the washer doesn't run while it's dry). I would also use Home Assistant instead of IFTTT, since it will be faster and won't rely on your internet being up to work. If you go with ZWave device, you'll need some kind of hub, which Home Assistant can act as (with a ZWave USB stick).

However, unless you want to tie this particular issue into a large home automation system (getting text messages when the leak sensor is triggered for example), you might be better off with something like this, which is an all-in-one system for exactly your use-case: https://www.amazon.com/Automatic-Detector-Shut-Off-Stopping-Detection/dp/B0742N3KHF/

Personally, I'd go with that kit, otherwise you're looking at:

• $60+ - Raspberry Pi for Home Assistant
  
• $45 - ZWave USB Stick
  
• $100 - ZWave Water Valve
  
• $90 - ZWave Heavy Duty Switch
  
• $30+ - ZWave Water Sensor
  
  That's already 3x the cost of the kit, not including your time to learn what you need to in order to get HA running & doing what you want it to.

Thanks! I think you may have put me on the right track. I went to the front hydrant and it had a different top, which tells me the back had been replaced before. It said Mansfield.

So I found this

https://www.prier.com/images/stories/documents/documents/Mansfield%20Stem%20ID%20Flyer.pdf

Looks like series 400 or 500 hydrant.

So I THINK this is what I need.

https://www.amazon.com/Prier-630-7500-Vacuum-Breaker-Service/dp/B00164C5IO/ref=sr_1_1?crid=31OZ7N0SI11GP&keywords=prier+630-7500+vacuum+breaker+service+parts+kit&qid=1562258968&s=gateway&sprefix=Prier+630%2Caps%2C127&sr=8-1

That being said, the white plastic piece looks a little different from the one I took a picture of..

Sous vide ribs are amazing, especially beef. I use an electronic temperature controller, an electric roaster oven, a circulating pump, and foodsaver bags.

For beef, divide the ribs so that they fit in gallon bags. Slap a heavy dry rub on them. Vacuum seal them. Put them in the water at 140F for the first 4 hours. This is to ensure nothing nasty grows (I've cooked at lower temps to start, because rare and medium rare are my favorite, but occasionally a bag goes bad and blows up like a balloon) Lower the temp to 130F and cook for an additional 44-68 hours.

When they're done, let them rest a bit, so that you don't overcook them when searing, then take the juices from the bag and use it to make BBQ sauce.

Turn your grill up to max, and give the ribs a quick sear. If you want, brush with sauce, and sear a bit more. You'll end up with some amazingly tender ribs. Other methods can also produce fall off the bone ribs, but IMO, those methods overcook the meat and sacrifice flavor. Here the meat is still medium and pink, so it tastes like a juicy steak.

Pork ribs are similar, except I cook them at 145F for 18-24 hours.

Here's my best suggestion: Take your passenger seat out, run it in through the trunk tail first. A 3 definitely has the interior length to do it, and since you're going alone you don't need the passengers seat.

As for scratching it with straps: Buy some pipe insulation. It's closed-cell foam tubing that can wrap around the straps and deform around the car. Use it under the board and on the straps where they contact the body panels. This will work great if you're only doing a week, but is in no way a long term solution. Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/ft-Polyethylene-Pipe-Insulation-Wall/dp/B007R7VNAA

The clear plastic tube that is zip tied to it is from the condensation pump for my HVAC unit.

You recommend Zoeller but is it better to get a sewage pump over a standard pump?

For a sewage pump, I was looking at this one but I don't know if a 1/3HP is a enough to push water up 8-9ft from the basin to outside the house.

these are old leaded flanges, my experience with cast iron and leaded flanges is rather limited due to my age and region. but the best way would be to replace the lead with newer cast iron if that's possible, or buy new flange plates that bolt to the existing floor.
this is a cast iron toilet flange that are much newer and the standard for cast iron applications :http://amzn.com/B001REGQXI
and this is more of a temporary flange you can use to repair what you have that will bolt to the floor: http://amzn.com/B000FHBGEC

Ironically, the larger more expensive ones with bigger motors are much quieter than the smaller, cheaper, weaker ones.

If you must have a disposal, I am a fan of Waste King models - their upper models (like this one) have stainless steel impellers, and much of the grinding mechanism is also stainless. They have a much thicker sound absorbing shroud than what you normally find (e.g. the In-Sink-Erators at the big box stores).

But... at the end of the day, they all pretty much do the same thing... spend over $100 on one and you will likely be happy with it.

Very easy 2 minute repair.

Pull off the metal cap on top which covers the vacuum breaker. It pulls straight off - might need a pliers. There will be a plastic piece that you need to tighten a little I think with a Phillips screwdriver.

If that doesn’t fix it then you need a new vacuum breaker kit called a Prier Mansfield Breaker Repair Kit model 630-7500 that has a replacement for the inside plastic pieces.. Runs under $10 and most hardware stores sell them.

https://www.amazon.com/Prier-630-7500-Breaker-Service-Original/dp/B00164C5IO

Perhaps something like this?

[RAM-PRO 36” Flexible Grabber Pickup Tool, Extra Long Retractable Claw Retriever Stick, Snake & Cable Aid, Use to Grab Trash & a Drain Auger to Unclog Hair from Drains, Sink, Toilet & Clean Dryer Vents] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LM2L50I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_anV-Bb6A4YFKM)

I would buy a new Zoller pump if I were you. A 1/3 HP pump (you would need to confirm the existing pump size) is $160 on amazon . Zoller is a better brand than the product you posted.
Installation involves loosening some fittings, and threading in a new discharge pipe. Pretty simple job.

I have a waste king, that's super cheap yet surprisingly powerful

http://www.amazon.com/Waste-King-L-8000-1-0-Horsepower-Continuous-Feed/dp/B000DZGN7Q/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1427408083&sr=8-1&keywords=waste+king

You will need to remove your aerator and replace it with a 15/16 thread x make hose thread faucet adapter.

Like this one.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00BHZLR4K/ref=dp_ob_neva_mobile

From there you can leave that on and install a new aerator on that too allow for easy switch outs.

Ok, so what you'd do is get yourself a sprinkler pump (here's another one from Amazon) and a float switch. That particular switch is rated for 12 amps continuous and the first pump I linked is a 10 amp draw, so it should be fine. Plug in your pump through the piggyback on the float switch, sink your intake hose into the cistern, toss your float switch in, get your discharge hose where you want it, and turn on the pump. When you're done, shut the pump off. The float switch is to protect the pump from sucking air should the cistern run dry.

A couple tools, but not bits that you can easily lose, because believe me you will lose them.

I use the Retract-a-bit screwdrivers for most stuff I'm working on, and just a standard kit, the one thing you will want to make sure you have is a really long phillips head screwdriver. There will be a lot of times you need something silly long to get down inbetween heatsinks etc.

Another thing I find worth its weight in gold is something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/RAM-PRO-Flexible-Grabber-Retractable-Retriever/dp/B01LM2L50I?th=1

I got something like this that I used to throw in a sink full of ice water (about 40 pounds, plus enough water to partially submerge the pump). It had no issue shooting through a 50 foot 3/8" SS chiller for recirculation. Benefit is you aren't tethered to any particular area for chilling, and it saves water. 40 pounds of ice is, like, $5, and gets you to pitching temps in under 10 minutes.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000X07GQS/ref=twister_B00MYTZO0G?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/WaterCop-Z-Wave-Shut-Off-Actuator-Prevention/dp/B07C91B69P/ref=sr_1_16?keywords=zwave+switch+water&qid=1555101934&s=gateway&sr=8-16

pretty sure zwave works with home-assistant

Plenty of folks use a little DC pump. I've got one that runs my RIMS machine. It's not specifically certified for food contact, but it's all polypropylene and polyphenylene. Both of which are pretty much inert below 150C.

Can you give us a scenario of when you would use this? I didn't think finding a faucet outside with threads was particularly hard. Finding one without threads seems hard, but I know of one.

Probably right up your alley but please ask permission from someone first, (except in an emergency.) No one cares if you fill a water jug, they require a key for the outside outlets because they don't want some jerk to come along and just leave the water running.

Hi all, my goal is to construct a fluid bed roaster capable of roasting a half-pound of coffee per go.

For the motor, I'm looking at this electric leaf blower, and for the heating element, I'm looking to dissect this heat gun.

I'll use a pyrex baking tube, and a cocktail shaker to cap it off at the base. And then some machining magic to couple it to the mounting pipe.

Does it seem like this will get hot enough to roast a 1/2 pound?

I'm trying to upgrade from my current popper setup which can roast a max of 60 grams at a time (and that's with me constantly agitating with a shish kabob stick).

Edit: One possible improvement could be increasing the wattage of the heater to 2000W. Does anyone have a recommendation for a really cheap blower (or just the element itself)? Or would this water heater element work?

If I reclaim the air from the exhaust back into the pump, would this allow a 1500W heater to work?

you could easily put a valve in the line in between the showerhead spigot and the faucet.

Something like this
https://www.amazon.com/K1140B-Shower-Shut-Off-Valve-Chrome/dp/B00HSWPYIG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1468699376&sr=8-1&keywords=showerhead+valve

Well depends I found this one fairly cheap on amazon and you can cut to length.
Amazon Link
I never really had to buy one but I’ve done research seeing if there were better alternatives but they all seem the same to me.

About your clog problem though instead of seeing if it’s a physical issue see if your retraction settings are maybe either too slow, too fast, or the distances are skewed and the optimal retraction is not happening.

Been happy with this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000X07GQS?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

RAM-PRO 36" Flexible Grabber Pickup Tool, Extra Long Retractable Claw Retriever Stick, Snake & Cable Aid, Use to Grab Trash & a Drain Auger to Unclog Hair from Drains, Sink, Toilet & Clean Dryer Vents https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LM2L50I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_h9umDbZ8BE573

Thanks, that's exactly what I did. Purchased a repair kit on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00164C5IO/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

If you're going to get a tiny pump like that, there are cheaper ones on Amazon like this one. The only difference being the connections. The one you linked has NPT which means it will be easier to hook into your current system, but there's no reason you can't use the one I linked as well.

No this is a little brown pump.

They are cheap and fairly weak.

I would think a chugger should be perfectly capable, how big a hose do you have connected? It says its capable of 18.6ft of head pressure.

Oh, these are the heating elements I was planning on using.

http://www.amazon.com/Camco-02203-Screw-In-Heater-Element/dp/B0006JLVBW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1398455516&sr=8-1&keywords=water+heater+elements+2000w

If I wired them individually, I can plug each into a regular outlet, right? Wiring them together, through the nicer PAC box, and then out to 240v?

You might be able to use a high temperature pump and just cycle the liquid from the bottom to the top. Something like https://www.amazon.com/temperature-108GPH-DC12V-Water-grade/dp/B007XZAJ3I with some additional plumbing would probably work. Maybe something with more GPH if you think ~2 gallons per minute would be too little.

5.55 Free shipping in my Misc Wishlist its a Jones Stephens J40-005 Four Way Key

There's Water Cop, which looks pretty decent: https://www.amazon.com/WaterCop-Z-Wave-Shut-Off-Actuator-Prevention/dp/B07C91B69P

I'll probably pick that one up myself when I get around to doing some plumbing here in a month or two.

I built a hot water bath using a temperature controller and heating element I got from Amazon. Whole thing cost me $70. Mounted the heating element in a plastic tub, wired up the temp controller, added a small aquarium pump to keep everything mixed well.

Element: https://www.amazon.ca/Camco-02203-2000W-Heater-Element/dp/B0006JLVBW/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1487969670&sr=8-3&keywords=heating+element

Controller: https://www.amazon.ca/docooler-Temperature-Controller-Thermocouple-Fahrenheit/dp/B00F05UI8O/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1487969690&sr=8-4&keywords=temperature+controller

yes

http://www.amazon.com/Zoeller-Mighty-mate-Submersible-Sump-Pump/dp/B000H5PYR2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1426310131&sr=8-1&keywords=zoeller+m53

or

http://www.amazon.com/Zoeller-507-0008-Pre-assembled-Battery-Backup/dp/B002N6VHXI/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1426310188&sr=8-8&keywords=zoeller

I have a Honda WX10 and it works awesome. Gas engine gives it plenty of power, but you might now want the noise depending on where you live. If I were to buy an electric one, it would probably be this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002YVPSK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I got the idea for the rotating keg cleaner from Will Troyer’s video.

Utility Pump

Brass Impact Sprinkler, the previous owner of my house left some of these, I replaced them with an in ground sprinkler system. Used parts from them for both the keg cleaner and the rotating sparge arm.

If you need more details let me know.

Can you use a retractable claw? One like this: https://www.amazon.com/RAM-PRO-Flexible-Grabber-Retractable-Retriever/dp/B01LM2L50I/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1537415875&sr=8-1-spons&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=snake+claw+tool&psc=1

Would something like thiswork?

I made my canoe roof ready ( and much quieter in the water when I rest my kayak paddle) by gluing Pipe foam insulation from the hardware store onto the length of the canoes rim. It usually needs replacement once a year.

Another thing i did to facilitate tying the canoe to the car was to install small wire loops on the structural beams of the underside of my Hyundai front and back. I had fixed length ropes on the rear of the canoe with large clips on them that would clip to those loops, leaving only two tie downs with truckers knots on the front. I also usually used two ratchet straps through the open rear doors at the mdsection of the canoe also. ( don't cinch them too tight!)

> Would a shower head with a "pause" setting work?

Yes.

Or put one these between the shower head and the wall: https://www.amazon.com/K1140B-Shower-Shut-Off-Polished-Chrome/dp/B00HSWPYIG

Orrr, you could easily install one of these to easily stop the flow of water while you soap up so you don’t have to try to deal with an app in the shower.

Looks like a Proper/Mansfield sillcock that needs a new vacuum breaker, the parts are less than $10.


https://www.amazon.com/Prier-630-7500-Vacuum-Breaker-Service/dp/B00164C5IO

Plumber here, buy this pump and this check valve . For your backup,it is a bit pricey but if you are on city water (well water wont work in the event of a power outage) I would recomend this pump It is powered by a stream of water so you don't have to worry about battery maintenance.

What kind of pump is it? I had a 5 year old big box store tether pump that would wake the whole house. Upgraded to a Zoeller m53 which cost me $125 on Amazon and is whisper quite. Don't forget to add in a check valve, which it doesn't look like yours has.

These are what I bought:
http://www.amazon.com/Zoeller-Mighty-mate-Submersible-Sump-Pump/dp/B000H5PYR2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1452683726&sr=8-1&keywords=zoeller

http://www.amazon.com/Zoeller-30-0181-Check-Valve-Inch/dp/B0009WD1L4/ref=pd_sim_60_1?ie=UTF8&dpID=41tvTOSrD7L&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=1DQ4X69H0CMEEQG9T9PN

I built a dry box that I keep my PLA in and feed directly to the printer using PTFE tubing.
https://imgur.com/rrc30HL
https://imgur.com/ZxHDLQX
I used the threaded rod holders from this
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:961881

And the Filament feeders from here
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1750875

I also keep one of these in there as well to keep it dry.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Eva-Dry-4-6-oz-Mini-Dehumidifier-E-333/202847328

Also, I used this PTFE tubing for the runs from the box.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073RDFTDV/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Depending if there is enough left you can pull out the remaining, cut it clean and reinsert it. Otherwise you will need a new tube.

​

https://www.amazon.com/Teflon-tubing-Filament-Printer-Tech/dp/B073RDFTDV/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=bowden+tube&qid=1562686568&s=gateway&sr=8-5

What's your boiler wattage? I'm running 2.5 gpm with 85 degree water source on a 5.5 kW burner and haven't had a problem.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000X07GQS/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I bought one of those, but my threads are buried in the faucet, so the flange on the one i got prevents me from using it! do you know of one that is a bit longer? FTR i got this one https://www.amazon.com/LDR-530-2050-Aerator-Adapter/dp/B00BHZLR4K/

AFAIK, the distinguishing characteristics of a current Mk10 nozzle are a 7x1mm thread and a 4mm bore. Performance 3D makes excellent nozzles and pretty much any generic brass Mk10 should work okay. There was an earlier rev nozzle that was for a 3mm OD x 2mm ID tubing and which had M6 threads. Only way to be sure is to measure but unless you have a fairly old FFC (e.g., laser cut case) it's probably the M7 & 4mm style.

For the PTFE tube, recommend buying a length of 4mm OD x 2mm ID PTFE tubing and cutting your own. Cheaper in the long run and you can cut it to the right length. When the PTFE tube is inserted inside the thermal barrier tube and nozzle there should be a narrow gap, about a fingernail's thickness, between the nozzle and tube. That ensures that the PTFE tube will fully seat once it's all assembled. One example of many.

Why is it the food grade pump on amazon is $30 but a pump for brewing cost over $100. https://www.amazon.com/temperature-108GPH-DC12V-Water-grade/dp/B007XZAJ3I

They sell 12v "brew" pumps on aamazon...supposed to be food safe but its all straight from china so who knows. Yoosan was the brand i bought...i use a chugger to circulate mash but i heard people use these so i bought one for shits and giggles. Can run 24v if you have an old computer power supply...really moves liquid too...

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0196WL55G/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1481382839&sr=8-3&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=12+pump+food+grade&dpPl=1&dpID=41UOH0yLNPL&ref=plSrch

I'd skip the guesswork on the showerhead and just get what you want. Install this before the showerhead. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HSWPYIG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_K5ioDb57GPQP4

Edit: Take the plastic restrictor out of the showerhead if you end up getting the adjustable valve.

Get a shower head with flow adjustment or put one of these before the shower head:https://www.amazon.com/K1140B-Shower-Shut-Off-Valve-Chrome/dp/B00HSWPYIG

It's why these are invaluable.

Get this Waste King L-8000 Legend Series 1.0-Horsepower Continuous-Feed Garbage Disposal $120.45

Or this one if you have a Costco membership

Waste King® 1 HP Universal Mount Garbage Disposer $119.99

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000H5PYR2

https://smile.amazon.com/RAM-PRO-Flexible-Grabber-Retractable-Retriever/dp/B01LM2L50I/ref=sr_1_4?crid=3CU2ZY6K75TQZ&keywords=flexible+pickup+tool+grabber&qid=1564614665&s=gateway&sprefix=flexible+pickup%2Caps%2C193&sr=8-4

I'm planning on using an Inkbird temperature controller to regulate a heating element in a cooler used as a HLT. Will there be an issue if there is nothing hooked up the the cooling connections of the Inkbird?

2 inch pipe insulation exists: http://www.amazon.com/Pipe-Insulation-Semi-Slit-In-Ft/dp/B007R7VNAA

Would one of these work?
https://www.amazon.com/RAM-PRO-Flexible-Grabber-Retractable-Retriever/dp/B01LM2L50I

Install one of these and teach them about navy showers

They're not all that expensive.

http://www.amazon.com/Takagi-T-KJr2-IN-NG-Indoor-Tankless-Natural/dp/B0057X27OC

I use these https://www.amazon.com/ft-Polyethylene-Pipe-Insulation-Wall/dp/B007R7VNAA

You can get a water heater style heating element and install that into your kettle. If you have 120v (standard for US) then you can get this one, if, however, you have 240v (also US, but for electric driers, ovens, and furnaces) then you can get something with a little more power.

Might I suggest using PVC pipe foam to cover that. https://www.amazon.com/ft-Polyethylene-Pipe-Insulation-Wall/dp/B007R7VNAA?th=1&psc=1

https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B0057X27OC/ref=psdc_3754791_t1_B00DDPZ5HM

For the $500 model.



https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00DDPZ5HM/_encoding=UTF8?coliid=I3NJ9RMM8KBCU&colid=3NFJLKZEG7L6I

For the condensing, $1100 model.

Wayne ESP25 Upgraded 12-Volt Battery Backup System, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GJXRZ1V/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_VVwOCbSW5RF0F

We have a sump and we bought something similar for power outages.

Did a reverse image search and found this: https://www.amazon.com/RAM-PRO-Flexible-Grabber-Retractable-Retriever/dp/B01LM2L50I

It's a hose bibb. You might try this bibb key

GAME CHANGER

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BHZLR4K/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Connect this to a faucet in your hose (preferably the sink by the tub, so you can drain there) and connect your hose connection on the wort chiller tubing to it.

This is the pump I'm using.

The controller is a custom built BrewManiacEX controller. As mentioned in another comment, I plan on redesigning the PCB I'm using over the next few days, then do a full /r/DIY style build thread.

One of these should do the trick

If you know where the entry hole is you could try a USB camera (Amazon) and metal grabber used for picking up screws or bolts in tight spaces?

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LM2L50I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_y.3-AbW59T4GY

Assuming they didn't fall way down into the wall.

Jones Stephens J40-005 Four Way Key https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000DZKYVC/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_RB4Dwb6GVQQM3

He's referring to these. The hose bib valves outside commercial buildings don't have handles to keep people from stealing water. You'll need one to get water to your filter.