(Part 3) Reddit mentions: The best electric outlets & accessories

Here are my thoughts:

• HomeKit is definitely the correct choice for ease of use and privacy
  
• plugs are easy to install, can be used for a variety of things, do not require any modification of the home, and doesn't introduce confusion with wall light switches. My recommendations are the Satechi Dual Smart Plug (two- smart outlets that don't block an outlet and monitoring) and the VOCOlinc SmartBar (cheaper and doesn't block an outlet, but only one smart outlet)
  
• get smart bulbs if you don't want to mess with wiring. The HUE are probably the best, and the IKEA are probably a more attractive price. Don't get too many color bulbs until you try one. The use of color in bulbs grows old after three days of "coolness". Wi-Fi bulbs will not require a bridge from the manufacturer. HOWEVER, you may want to consider something with bridge (like the HUE or IKEA). The bridge will have better performance due to how HomeKit communications work, and it might be better if you are in an apartment with congested Wi-Fi signals
  
• The Lutron Caseta Wireless Smart Lighting Lamp Dimmeris plugs into your outlet for connecting lamps that you want to dim
  
• If you don't mind wiring, (its so easy to do that you could easily remove them when you move out) I highly recommend the Lutron Caseta Wireless Smart Dimmer Switch. Rock solid and fast and easy to install. Its the best for lights because you don't have figure out the physical "switch" problem, and anybody can still use the lights in the apartment without having access to HomeKit.
  
• An AppleTV for your hub
  
  ​
  
  That should get you going!

First off, welcome -- it's a fun ride!

Re: Dimmers/Plugs/Etc
Caseta is nice, I have a couple of switches and they work great. Especially if you want to create 3-way switches without wiring. What I mean is that you can just replace one hard-wired switch with a smart switch and then use the Caseta Pico for the secondary location (which just adheres to the wall).

Just some thought starters as you explore further -- for hardwired switches, in addition to Lutron, I have had a ton of success with the GE/Jasco Z-Wave switches.

https://www.amazon.com/GE-Lighting-Control-Switch-Z-Wave/dp/B0035YRCR2/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1479395673&sr=8-2&keywords=ge+smart+switch

I have the generic on/off switch, dimmer switch and fan switch by them (more on the dimmer function later).

For my plug-in switches, currently I have a couple different ones I use for Christmas lights, and a couple of lamps and a floor fan.

My favorite is this random one I found by Inovelli or Show Home (not sure -- looks like Inovelli is a distributor or something):

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Z-Wave-On-Off-Smart-Home-Plug-Control-2-Outlets-w-1-Module-Works-with-Alexa-/361826630198

I like it because you can control two outlets individually vs just one like all the other ones and it's around the same price too.

I also own a Leviton plug-in which works great too, but only controls one outlet -- still no complaints:

https://www.amazon.com/Leviton-VRPA1-1LW-Capable-Appliance-Module/dp/B00JFF1WP8/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1479395904&sr=8-6&keywords=leviton

Ok, now on to your question about blog/forum/guide, etc...
Here's a good place to start:

http://wiki.winkathome.net/Main_Page

I also enjoy reading the Wink Group comments on Facebook -- I can't remember the name of the group, but if you just search for Wink Home Automation, I think it shows up. That group has been awesome for learning new things. It's a fairly large group too.

Lastly, I think I understand what you're asking, but if not, I apologize. How the GE Dimmers work (and I'm assuming the other ones too) is that you can use the switch manually like any dimmer switch -- hold up and it gets brighter, hold down and it gets dimmer, tap the up button and the light turns on to the last setting you left it at, tap the bottom button and the light turns off.

You can also set the percentage (or approximate, I don't recall it having actual numbers -- it's more a sliding scale) you'd like it to go to from within the Wink app (ex: have your light come on to around 75% at 8pm, then dim to 50% at 10pm).

Make sense?

Hope this helps.

Better to be paranoid when you're posting on reddit where there's ALWAYS some idiot who will hurt themselves if you don't tell them not to.

I had no idea the IF app existed! I've seen IFTTT but I never really played around with it. It looks like they're still working on getting smart products integrated with it, so I guess I'll have to actually do research to figure out fun ways to use these things.

What I have is a Wink Hub, a Aeotec door/window sensor, and an aeotec Smart Switch. I don't have the slightest idea how to control either of them!

That's exactly what I was thinking with the kitchensafe, it goes with some of the things that inspire these crazy ideas. I really like how it doesn't unlock even if the batteries die, which could lead to some fun. I've seen the chastity sites but it seems so convoluted, I really want to think of simpler ideas. One of the bonuses of that is that you can chain together simple ideas into strange complex predicaments.

The story of the lock is actually related to that. I had done a similar thing, using snapchat and a friend. Then one day I got it in horny head to stick all my boxers into a suitcase so I'd be forced to only wear panties for a week. I locked them up and mailed the key to a friend with a greeting card I had around. When I saw them that weekend, I asked if they got the card and they said yes, but didn't acknowledge the key. I thought they were fucking with me, but apparently the key fell out of the envelope! So eventually I had to just buy bolt cutters to get it off, but now I'm used to panties for everyday wear!

Sadly, it looks like the cheapest door holders would run around $30-40, which I can't really justify spending on this, even though it sounds like a fun project!

I have a lot of different Smart outlets being used around the home. It really depends on what your use is going to be.

For a cheap outlet where space is not an issues, these from KMC have worked well for me. They are pretty dependable even in areas with weak WiFi signal and the energy monitoring is nice for things like air filters or fans.

KMC also makes a nice multi outlet plug. I personally use this to control the multiple led light strips at my garage workbench.

For anything 15A, I would say TP-Link is the way to go. These have been great for me, but the newer HS105 does have a better form factor. I have used these for my garage fridge, windows AC unit, and tools at my workbench. There is an energy monitoring variant as well, the HS110

You may see that there are a ton of the cheap round shaped smart plugs on Amazon and other sites. I have found all of these to be almost exactly the same, no matter what company they come from. They work well enough for simple devices like lamps, but they have tended to have issues in anywhere, but perfect WiFi signal areas.

Let me know if you have any questions on this or any other devices. After a few years of upgrades, I am at over 110 smart devices, so I can tell you what not to get...

Just for a precursor, I'm attempting to setup the ultimate man cave. I'm more than happy to shell out the extra cash for a product that flat out works, however as were all aware sometimes you pay for a brand.

I feel like Alexa may be a bit of a disappointment compared to google in many aspects as well as comparability. When I originally began my research I was thought I was set on Alexa. Prime member for years, Amazon card holder, ext. I believe the Echo show is an amazing product(In the right direction anyway), would you happen to know if google plans on realeasing a tablet such home as the Echo? I would really love the ability to use both voice and hand control commands all in one, so I've looked into the Logitech harmony as well. Shoot even if the voice is limited(as I expect it to be, I would be perfectly content being able to control everything with one remote and some voice features being a bonus) Which I believe the Logitech may be able to as it has its own hub.

Side note I'm also trying to load up on some smart wifi outlets, there's several different brands and I'm confused as to if each will require a different app.

For example I love this product if it works in theory!

Geeni SURGE Smart Wi-Fi 4 Outlet & 4 USB Surge Protector, No Hub Required, Works with Amazon Alexa and Google Assistant https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071R9N4Z7/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_w90JzbVZPK7AP

However I will also need some smaller units smart outlet units for a single item here or there. If the previous link works, am I limited to only products correlated with their brand(Geenie I believe) to control through just one app? I've read great reviews for Wemo, TP-Link, and Etekcity as well. They just all have slightly different options I may or may not prefer, and it would be frustrating having 6 different apps.(Which is why I was wondering if the Eharmony may resolve that issue). The Smart surge protector seems really awesome to me. I could have my lamps on each side of my bed, aroma therapy, an extra outlet, and the 4 ports supposedly work individually for the price of most of the other wifi single plugs. As well as the snazzy extra USBs that always come in handy.

Sorry for the beginner question.
The solution to me is to get all of the same brand, but I always love to hear others expierences and recommendations!

You are gonna need multiple lights.

Here was my plan of attack for a similar problem and it worked very well(room is only 225sq ft though)

I got 4 of the tall floor lamps that put most of their light straight up (9X4=$36) and stuck 100W equivalent LED light bulbs ($10) in them.

Then plug them into something like these outlet remotes ($28). I like these ones cause there is a All on All off button. If you want you can spring for the Bluetooth connected ones but looking at my phone when i wake up is blinding so i prefer a physical remote.

All in all you can light the whole room pretty well for $74 and the best thing is you can keep a remote by your beside to turn on/off all or individual lights without getting out of bed.

Also before you stick all your stuff in the room you might want to consider repainting the ceiling to help defuse light into the room when you install the lamps.

The difference between brand new white paint and white paint that is 10 years old can be pretty surprising.

While you can do that, I might share some additional thoughts:

• The EVSE link you provided will charge at a rate of only 16A, which is one-half the capability of your Clarity (and nearly all new cars). From a cost/labor perspective, I wouldn't bother pulling a new 20A circuit if the goal is to support EVs.
  
• Plugging and unplugging your EVSE daily (I'm assuming you'd have to do this so nobody steals it from the common parking lot) will put a lot of wear and tear on the NEMA 14-50R, so be sure to use a commercial receptacle ($75), not one of those cheap ones ($8) at the local big box store.
  
• For a wall-mount EVSE, a new, dedicated circuit is effectively the same material and labor cost no matter what attaches at the end of it, whether a ChargePoint device vs NEMA 14-50 all weather receptacle. If there is a pedestal or dual charger solution then, yes, there is more consideration for a concrete pad, etc. (And the ChargePoint requires a cellular control module, but that provides a huge benefit if the desire is a managed charging solution.)
  
  Of course, every garage and parking lot is different, so many of us can only speculate as to what is best for your particular case.

I thought the same thing as you did - I grabbed the philips hue white starter kit and a smart outlet for each family I bought for.

The white bulb starter kit was $49 for 4 white bulbs and the hub. Amazon, Best Buy and Home Depot had good prices on them - they're pricey but real nice. The color bulbs are super nice also but cost more.

The outlets were $16.88 each on amazon - Here is a link for the 2 pack for $31 https://www.amazon.com/LinkStyle-Function-Required-Appliances-Smartphones/dp/B074QGK828

The outlets are nice for lamps or the coffee maker.

I have something that's $15.22 but I'll still show it anyways because it's super cool :D

They sell these things on amazon, that allow you to plug your usb cables directly into your electrical outlets, as opposed to plugging in the bulky chargers etc.

Maybe I'm just a super nerd but I think it's really cool :)

To add to this I have a Leviton Decora Dimmer switch that I just installed and it works great for some track lighting I have.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GONGX3O/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

/u/ekzoo85 explained how it works pretty well.

I'll add that the switch can trigger robots in the wink hub as well. So when you press the switch you can have it control pretty much anything else. Press this switch, when lights off turn additional light off, or if lights on wait 1 hour then turn lights off.

Controlling the switch from the app is very fast.

And there are options for the wiring a 3 way (4 or 5 way too). Using the Leviton Decora that I linked you would need a "matching digital switch". Here is the one I use for my 3 way.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001HT4M4I/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1



My track lighting is just halogen bulbs but my dimmer makes it a smart light. I can say Alexa set Living Room Track to 62% and it works great! Way better than the old dimmer I had too.

It doesn't help with fact that you have two fixtures to plug in, but just in case it helps (because I had to hunt these down while doing what I think is the the exact same conversion) there exist 4-inch round receptacles, like this:

http://www.amazon.com/Leviton-5059-15-Amp-3-Wire-Receptacle/dp/B000U3I1Z8

Only provides you with one receptacle, but was definitely the easy way out in my case where the existing fixture had a round box behind it.

EDIT: Just noticed that Amazon suggested a duplex version of the same:

http://www.amazon.com/Leviton-5042-Duplex-Receptacle-4-Inch/dp/B000HEHCAU/

It was easier to do than I thought. I installed just above the outdoor outlet so didn't have far for power cable to go. I used TayMac 2-Gang Weatherproof In-Use Cover, cut the siding the exact size of case and screwed case directly to wall. I also used an Echo2 wall mount and centered it within the case. I connected sound output to Bluetooth Outdoor Planter Speakers setup on each end of the patio and it is always connected.

Absolutely love the setup. We have a gas firepit and jam to chill music by the fire. We were watching the birds this afternoon and asked Alexa to play bird sounds- it was fun.

I have a planter right next to it so it is partially hidden. I don't need to worry about neighbors bc they are far enough away that Echo wouldn't pic up if they tried. Don't have smart locks, garage door opener doesn't connect alexa. If somebody ordered something, i'd catch it quick (get notified by text when amazon order goes through) so could cancel quickly. Honestly, don't have any worries about it outside.

The mic isn't as sensitive picking up my requests as when it was indoors (case muffles sound), but if there is a clear path and I am clear, she picks me up. Alexa has a harder time picking up my requests if the planter is blocking the line of sight between me and Echo.

Before i did this I was looking around for waterproof Echo setup but didn't find anything, wanted to share what I did for others looking to do the same. I highly recommend doing it if you spend a lot of time on your back patio.

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I don't think I'm explaining my question well and I apologize for that. Is it normal for the power poles at the site to have what I would call a "normal" plug for a regular extension cord? This is the link to the adapter I thought I might need:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07BZ2B22F/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_1?smid=AIVNKK5E0ABND&psc=1

I just want to plug in a regular heavy duty extension cord, not an RV. Just curious what those of you who regularly use the power at sites find on the poles. Hopefully I'm making better sense of what I'm trying to find. Appreciate the help.

Hahaha! The 30 amp RV plug is just a beefier version of the normal 15 amp plug you have in your house with a different shape. There are lots of types of adapters, you are looking for a 30 amp male to 15 amp female. They make them the other way around for people to connect their RVs at home with so make sure the 15 amp side is female.

An example:

https://www.amazon.com/Leisure-Dogbone-Adapter-Electrical-Converter/dp/B07BZ2B22F/ref=mp_s_a_1_13?ie=UTF8&qid=1550085016&sr=8-13&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=30+amp+to+15+amp+adapter

Remember: 30 amp male to 15 amp female!

You’re welcome and good luck!

I got these smart plugs the other day for $16.50 for a 4 pack. They work with the other chinese smart plug I already had, smart life app works on both brands. I'm actually happy these only work on 2.4 GHz bands so they get better range and since they don't need perfect connections to work.

Already good comments here, but TBF the best remote things are outlets and wall switches. That way if/when you hit a switch to turn something off the 'old' way it will still respond if you want it on.

Also, you need a hub. Smartthings or Wink.
The rest are worthless (Hue hub and all the other hubs). IMO Philips Hue is lame. If you want colored bulbs go get Sylvania lightify (cheaper, less crap in your house since it doesn't need its own hub).

Ideal starter setup would be an echo dot $50, a hub $100, two wall switches ($30ea) (for unswitched outlets) and a couple wall paddle switches ($30ea). That much hardware would set you back about $270, but would add a fair bit of fun and convenience.

Not sure but I personally use the KMC brand ones. I also have a couple TpLink but prefer the others due to the app and being able to see more information such as energy used and a better time frame / graph. The TP link basically just showed hours on last I checked.

Below is a link to a 3 pack, currently about 22 bucks



KMC 3 Pack Wi-Fi Smart Plug with Energy Monitoring, Compatible with Amazon Alexa Google Home, No Hub Required, Remote Control Outlet with Timing Function, ETL Listed https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07313TH7B/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_8Wl4DbPS7SC38

These are great plugs with a great price.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07GRLQV47/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

And this project will flash Tasmota on them, removing the foreign api and control locally via http or mqtt.

https://github.com/ct-Open-Source/tuya-convert

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Not super pretty, but super easy.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000HEHCAU/ref=asc_df_B000HEHCAU5148160/

I use the BN-LINK BNC60 outlets. Someone on reddit introduced them to me. Here's a link to a 4-pack. The cheapest I've ever gotten them was 5% off this price, but evidently they went on sale awhile ago for $18/3-pack. Anyways, I use tuya-convert on a Raspberry Pi to put Tasmota on them. They're great and do energy monitoring and have a 15 amp limit which is kind of rare I guess...most are 10 amp.

https://www.amazon.com/BN-LINK-Monitoring-Function-Compatible-Assistant/dp/B07CX5KLXN/ref=sr_1_4?crid=1HQWAPAXHKVRO&keywords=bn-link+bnc+60&qid=1562453537&s=gateway&sprefix=bn-link+bnc%2Caps%2C183&sr=8-4

Cool stuff. Thanks! Did a quick research. My findings:

• Sonoff smart switches on Amazon: https://amazon.com/dp/B074N22WFT - 8x switch for $51 - that's only $7/pc!
  
• reddit confirms
  
• some custom firmwares
  
  • https://github.com/KmanOz/KmanSonoff
    
  • https://github.com/arendst/Sonoff-Tasmota)
    
• guide on tricking Sonoff into connecting to a local server instead of cloud without flashing - https://blog.ipsumdomus.com/x-1b2d6632c01
  

Let's look at what you need here. Obviously a wifi capable board. Enough processor and such to handle simple commands, it has to be able to talk to your app, and run the wifi stack. A relay (I am going to assume 110V)

I'm not much into circuit design, I like to paste together off the shelf stuff, so I would go with a raspberry pi (with 8 IO ports) and something like this for the relay.

Or something like this and you don't even have to write the app.

I may have misdirected you on the relay part... what I meant was an actual relay Vs the Wink Relay.
https://smile.amazon.com/Enerwave-ZWN-RSM2-Z-Wave-Convert-Enabled/dp/B00JWVNH4Y/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1468877628&sr=8-2&keywords=zwave+relay

I can control two existing dumb switches with one device. So in my case I have the outside porch lights and porch outlets in the ceiling (for holiday lighting) controlled by the one relay. Saves space and money.

As for the Wink Relay, I could see how it would help, I just don't have the right setup for it. Most of my boxes where it would make sense are 3 gang or more.

I have a couple switches depending on the config.

for the foyer chandelier, the switches are still toggle and it is a three way switch. So I used the GE Zwave with add-on switch to help it blend in a bit.

Dimmer switch - https://smile.amazon.com/GE-12729-Wireless-Lighting-Control/dp/B00PYMGS3C/ref=pd_sim_60_2?ie=UTF8&dpID=51mGs2T1eYL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL320_SR164%2C320_&psc=1&refRID=GB18YZVF9J9DR1F95J6W

Add-on switch - https://smile.amazon.com/GE-12728-Wireless-Bluetooth-Connected/dp/B00PYMGYY0/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1468877971

For the single pole switches I used the Leviton Zwave switches

Dimmer - https://smile.amazon.com/Leviton-DZMX1-1BZ-Controls-Capable-Universal/dp/B01GONGX3O/ref=sr_1_4?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1468878067

Regular Switch - https://smile.amazon.com/Leviton-DZS15-1LZ-Decora-Controls-Capable/dp/B00LEWQYHG/ref=pd_sim_sbs_60_3?ie=UTF8&dpID=31bJcKzR1ML&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&psc=1&refRID=3RGMQDRFX87WN0GFGVB5

There are cheaper alternatives out there, I just used these cause I had gift cards and were located locally so I could return them if there was an issue.

Edit: spelling and words

Sure. Just replace the switch with a Homekit enabled switch. The one in your post looks similar to this one in my neighbor's house: https://www.amazon.com/SHARNDY-Warmers-Heated-ETW13-2A-Bathroom/dp/B00S4FJ6YY/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1551004089&sr=8-4&keywords=heated+towel+rail . In her house, this is just plugged into an outlet, located in the wall, that's turned on/off by a regular switch. I replaced the original switch with a Lutron Caseta switch and now the towel warmer comes on via schedule for her.

I have this floor standing model: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0016L5H0U/ref=twister_B00F3X79IU?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1, and it's plugged into a VOCOlinc Smartbar:https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07NJRS8TX/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Mine also turns on and off via a schedule. In addition, I also placed an Aqara water sensor in my shower, so when it gets wet, the water sensor turns on tower warmer if it's not already on and it turns off after 2 hours.

Thanks, this actually lead me to researching home automation and using plug switches that monitor usage.

To answer my own question I think I might be looking into either hardware like: Plugwise or using a plug switch based on Z-Wave like this: Aeon Labs.

The home automation can get expensive, but it has the side benefit of allowing me to control things remotely.

These work great for me YTE Smart Plug, WiFi Outlet Compatible with Alexa Echo, Google Home, Alexa Outlet Smart Socket Control Your Devices with Timing Function from Anywhere, ETL and FCC Listed, No Hub Required https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GNBH6WS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_ZQ7PBbGDV77XX

YTE Smart Plug, WiFi Outlet Compatible with Alexa Echo, Google Home, Alexa Outlet Smart Socket Control Your Devices with Timing Function from Anywhere, ETL and FCC Listed, No Hub Required https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GNBH6WS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_LHQYCb0QXR1ER

I bought these for around $9 I wouldn't buy them at the current price. They have worked great.

Seems like the lesson there is to get a high quality receptacle designed for multiple insertions. The first thread recommends the Hubbell HBL9450A, which is pretty pricey. I find it hard to believe a Leviton one would be fine since that is commonly seen at RV sites.

Also proper installation/wiring is key. All connections must be good so nothing gets hot, and cables should be of the proper thickness for the current drawn (6AWG in this case).

Also a of grease or dust getting onto the plug as that can reduce the contact area and cause heat.

(And amps can equate to heat if wiring is inadequate and thus overloaded.)

I hava these smartlife outlets to control my humidifiers and holiday lights. I currently have them using IFTTT to turn on and off for different things. I have a few different recepies for them. Using IFTTT for complicated tasks is tricky and often requires very creative combinations. HomeAssistant is much easier to do complicated tasks. These do not need any extra hub to use.
Edit: I can never format links

I’m in the exact same boat.

There must be a web alternative to create a virtual “device” that’s discoverable by Alexa.

That way you could create as many devices as you’d like in order to use Ifttt’s awesome services.

In the meantime, I have an alternative but it’s kind of bizarre and I’m sure not the most savvy way to accomplish this.

I happen to have a few Wifi Switches laying around and they are acting as my go between for devices to trigger other Ifttt.

So I’ll create an Alexa routine that does whatever right away and then in addition will turn on one of those WiFi switches. That “turning on” can also act as a trigger in Ifttt for whatever I want.

Alas, Stringify was a much better middle man. But this does work! Albeit, a frustrating workaround.

What's your budget? ZWave/Zigbee/Insteon switches, outlets, and compatible hubs will do this easily but they won't be cheap.

If you don't need a wall switch, we have a couple sets of these and they're great.

Yeah. I dont like high voltages as well so here are the options:

• use cheap infrared controlled wall sockets (like this ( https://www.rs-online.com/designspark/control-wireless-mains-sockets-with-arduino-and-raspberry-pi ))
  
• or, like me, buy wifi sockets and trigger them via GET requests (ifttt or something like that) from your arduino

I have one like this (different brand) that has worked great for 4 years so far. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001BS9UTC

It may be worthwhile to take a look into consumer options for the tvs and small devices.

Ankuoo NEO Smart Plug, Wi-Fi, White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NAX2GVU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_sZ4QybZ6RWDQ8

Wemo also has a few other options.

These are minimal install/config once you connect them on the network. Though they can also grow legs and walk off easily.

Wire your charging stand so the switch is in the stand, then you'll have the one cord from the stand to the outlet and you don't have to try to find the outlet made of unobtanium.

Or, if you want, you can hide this for best aesthetics, and use the master switch or the individual switches as you wish.

Or try this device or this sort of switch at the wall.

No you won’t ruin an LED Light by turn it off and on or unplugging it while its on.

Personally I love the Wemo smart plugs. They have timers and can be controlled via your phone.

If you have use for multiple timers in one location like for your lights, power heads, CO2, bubbler or what have you there is a power strip on amazon
Geeni SURGE Smart Wi-Fi 4 Outlet & 4 USB Surge Protector - No Hub Required, Works with Amazon Alexa and Google Assistant https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071R9N4Z7/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_n5MGAbHC8Q7XS

I understand what you're asking for, u/vm_x2a_nix. To clarify for other users: the wall box in your room is installed horizontally so the nightlight is sideways, and you want a switched receptacle in your daughter's room.

This will handle the receptacle in your bedroom, and this is your solution for your daughter's room without having to run any new Romex.

Hope this helps.

Just wanted to chip in about the cheap ones that you mentioned. I picked up a 3 pack of these for $30. I will say, they will satisfy all of your needs. I use the app to schedule, my wife can press a physical button on them, the app on my iphone works well, and I am able to use Alexa/Google Home to control them.

I have had 2 issues with them:

-Once in a while (not more than once a month) I need to unplug one of them and plug it back in because it loses wifi connectivity

-Can't use it with IFTTT or Stringify. This limits my automations to the scheduler within the app, and I can't create more advanced routines using location/other things.

Overall, they were worth the money for my needs (turning on/off some Christmas lights), but if you want to get more advanced or have something 10000% reliable you should spend the extra $.

Amazon offers these wired in line switches. They're good for 10 amps. Similar switches sold by others on Amazon.

Agoal Sonoff Wifi Switch Wireless Remote Control Electrical for Household Appliances,Compatible with Alexa DIY Your Home Via Iphone Android App 2-Pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074N22WFT/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_OCE8AbW7FDE9Y

There's socket/switch combinations like this:

https://www.amazon.com/Leviton-T5625-W-Combination-Tamper-Resistant-Receptacle/dp/B002LSI72M/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1485300619&sr=8-1

You can wire it to act like a normal wall switch for a ceiling light or whatever, or be a switch for the integrated socket.

You might want to consider the Hook Hub. It allows you to use inexpensive Etekcity plugs

I've had this system for 8 or 9 months now and although I can point out some stuff about it I don't like, I'll say this--it works flawlessly for me. In fact, it works better than my Philips Hue system. One thing that is cool is that you can purchase a crap-ton of those cheap Etekcity plugs and the Hook will control them all.

Supposedly they're coming out with a next-gen version of the Hook, but I've seen nothing about that recently. They sell the original/current version on Amazon, but note that it began as a Kickstarter project.

I have one and it absolutely does the trick! I use it for this exact setup for a backyard string light collection connected to cheap RF controlled on/off plugs instead of more expensive smart plugs. Only downside with this setup is 1. make sure the RM pro is less than 100 feet from the lights / plug because it otherwise might be unstable, and unfortunately since these lights won't send a signal back you can never be certain that what it says on your automation dashboard is correct, but that is a minor inconvenience, as you can just flip it back and forth til it is synced.

Edit: I used these RF plugs and they work great for cheap. https://www.amazon.com/Etekcity-Upgraded-Wireless-Electrical-Compatible/dp/B01N5JSAHM/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1527096443&sr=8-3&keywords=rf+plugs All you'd have to do is setup the RM Pro automation to first turn the plug on, wait a few seconds, then send a signal to the light itself to change to whatever color you want.

Just wanted to mention that they sell remote controls on amazon and they are really cheap! My husband found them recently and it changed our life for the better! Here the one I use but there are many types.

https://www.amazon.ca/BESTTEN-Wireless-Electrical-Automation-Certified/dp/B073RF6PJP/ref=sr_1_18?keywords=remote+control+for+switch&qid=1556907280&s=gateway&sr=8-18

YTE Smart Plug, WiFi Outlet Compatible with Alexa Echo, Google Home, Alexa Outlet Smart Socket Control Your Devices with Timing Function from Anywhere, ETL and FCC Listed, No Hub Required https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GNBH6WS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_TapUBb84PQJZF

Nice! I got this one from Ankuoo that I use with my Gaggia Classic that has similar features.

Geeni is listed as a possible brand that the GH can connect with and they have a 4-outlet + 4 USB smart strip.

I bought this one. Works like a charm. You can assign each outlet its own name. USBs are grouped, but I don't really need to turn them on/off anyway


https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071R9N4Z7?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

I have one of those by my chair in the living room.

I also recommend them for kitchen counters or wherever you rest your mobile devices.

It would be a lot simpler and cheaper to just get a WIFI controlled outlet and control the lamp from your phone. You can also set timers using this function, so the light is always on a certain time of day.

I'm using Sonoff basic's flashed with Tasmota. This overwrites the crapware that they ship with, enabling MQTT and offer the option to emulate Belkin WeMo as well as Philip's Hue, which I think should work with Home.

Using MQTT, the modules are very quick, I'd guess less than 500ms.

The basic modules have one extra pin that can be used as a generic digital input, connecting to temp/hum sensors, IR diodes, etc.

ISmartgate lite

ISMARTGATE LITE Garage (aka. New Gogogate2) - HomeKit, Google Assistant, Alexa and iFTTT Compatible Controller to remotely Open, Close and Monitor from Anywhere with Smartphone https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07PX311B3/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_.O-HDbGFVENY2

Vocolink plug

VOCOlinc Smart Plug, Wi-Fi Mini Outlet Socket, Works with HomeKit (iOS12 or +), Alexa & Google Assistant, Timer, No Hub Required, 15A 1800W, 2.4GHz, Smartbar (2 Pack) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07NJRS8TX/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_t2-HDbQP800M4

I just tried charging mine with a couple different USB chargers.

1. 500 mA brick: didn't recognize it while on, but when I turned the tablet off and replugged it in, it started to charge.
   
   
2. 700 mA USB outlet: recognized it as AC charging. Not sure how long it would take; I suspect a while.
   
   I'd say if you need a charge and you don't have the supplied 2 amp brick, turn off the tablet first and you should be good.

Combination USB Charger

I want to list two more things, but RULESSSS Ughhh.

> LED indicator light glows to notify user that device is charging and will go off when a full charge is achieved

http://www.amazon.com/Cooper-Wiring-Devices-TR7740W-K-Combination/dp/B007NC5GI4

Heatsinks $11
Sonoff switch $14.00
N-Channel MOSFET $8.88
Stickable Breadboard $9.99
LED lights $11.25
Google AIY Voice Kit $12
HDMI $6.99
5V Power Supply $7.99
12V Power Supply $9.99
Raspberry Pi $38
Monitor $69.99
Mirror $129.99

Total : ~$330

May need to get another app activated on off switch to go in line. http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00NAX2GVU/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1459362618&sr=8-1&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=wifi+power+outlet&dpPl=1&dpID=313N2yxNvcL&ref=plSrch

Any machine can do that, with this: https://www.amazon.com/Ankuoo-Smart-Plug-Wi-Fi-White/dp/B00NAX2GVU

some machines will not turn on with a timer, but most hx or dual boilers will. Check your model first.

https://www.amazon.com/KMC-Monitoring-Compatible-Required-Function/dp/B07313TH7B/ref=sr_1_2?m=A1BRJKB12CAV7X&s=merchant-items&ie=UTF8&qid=1537859659&sr=1-2

Sonoff?


edit: see: https://www.reddit.com/r/HomeKit/comments/7pxcsv/custom_firmware_now_allows_the_sonoff_basic_to_be/

Replace the outlet with one of these?

EATON TR7740W-K Combination Electrical Receptacle, 125 V, 15 A A, 1.9 x 3.8 x 5.9", White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007NC5GI4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_9cR4Cb54KRGKS

I have an LTE hotspot and reception isn't an issue in my hangar, will probably go with a WiFi switch: http://amzn.com/B00NAX2GVU. Then hook up all my other WiFi enabled stuff to it... not sure how the hotspot will stay connected 24/7 but we'll see.

You might want to mention your country. There are literally many products like these: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07313TH7B/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_c_api_Cdh2Bb1JSTE9X which do have start and end time functionality via the associated phone app, but no clue if these work out for wherever on the planet you happen to be....

Seriously, they're $15 and stupid easy to install. Not to mention old hat.

Why in Sam's hell would you link to an image when linking to the product would be easier for interested/potential customers:

• http://www.amazon.com/Cooper-Wiring-Devices-TR7745W-BOX-Combination/dp/B00B1GHC58/
  
• http://www.amazon.com/Cooper-Wiring-Devices-TR7740W-K-Combination/dp/B007NC5GI4