Reddit mentions: The best electronic mounts

Hi. This sounds like such a fun project to do! I also agree with the mount idea.

I've used this for my monitors before I switched to these. Both are great quality, easy to install, and deliver what they advertise.

The benefit of these articulating types is that they can also tilt, swivel, and rotate. I don't know how your vanity is set up, but tilting might be something to consider if you ever both sit and stand. The swivel might be helpful if you're trying to catch the best natural light from a particular window.

The former is definitely more affordable and a simple enough solution. It's very sturdy when mounted onto a stud, or be sure to use anchors. Also, if you plan to use this type of mount, just be aware that when it's pushed back, the center of the mirror (if you affix it to the mount at the exact center) will be offset about a couple inches to the side from where the mount is attached to the wall. I hope I explained that well enough. There should be more info on this in the reviews with photos to help explain what I mean, or feel free to ask me for more details.

The latter (or something like it) would be a great option if you didn't want to attach anything to the wall at all as it can clamp onto an edge of your vanity, if possible. This might be a good route if your vanity is floating away from a wall. This one is much more costly, though, and I would personally rather spend that money on the makeup goodies lol. I'm only mentioning this option as it's the only other mount I've had experience with and it's a great mount, but there could be similar ones out there at a lower price point with the same features by now (I bought it a couple years ago).

Safety tips: I don't know if you have plans for how to affix the mirror to the mount, or what kind of mirror you want to use, but in regards to safety (if it is a simple bare mirror) I would recommend to create/attach/build some kind of backing/frame for the back and around the edges of the mirror so that it's more sturdy when you move it around. Also, I would recommend sticking bumpers onto the parts of the mount that come into contact with the back of the mirror when the mirror is pushed back towards the mount.

I hope this was helpful. Please feel free to ask me any questions.

Here I go! (Sorry it took me so long to repost, my old post got lost on my phone!)

The Keys to a Successful Battle Station are storage, usable space, location, and proper lighting. Well, IMO at least.
That being said, you've already completed phase one: choosing your location!!
I can't tell from the photo if you can squeeze a chair into that area (I'm assuming you can), but it doesn't look like your gal can scoot under that table.
When applying makeup you need to zoom in and out, so I think this could be a great way to redesign this space:

This is my opinion of a battle-station guide for a small budget.

I would like to think you don't have to spend a ton of money to get what you really want and need. However, my projects are usually touched up with a bit of my artistic flair. If that is something you lack, then spending slightly more money might give you that polished feel without the hassle of hand designing everything. Just remember that everything can always be customized!

What you'll need:
1 Mirror (something like 10x10, but the mirror in your picture may work fine!)
1 Monitor Mount (and a piece of wood to connect the mount to the back of the mirror)
Storage Units

The idea here is that your girl can move the chair aside and the desk becomes another nice piece of furniture, but if she wants to do her makeup, she can just pull the chair up, sit down and get to busy.

That's where the mount comes in. It lets you swivel and move the mirror so you don't have to crane over to see what and to where you are applying to. AND you won't have to go crazy and lop that desk apart!
.
Storage is the only thing that keeps me sane as far as my makeup goes. I have 20 different plastic containers in my bathroom closet all labeled and easy to find. It REALLY beats fishing around in a basket.

I did a little online shopping, and this is what I found.
Pre-mounted mirrors can get pretty spendy - I think they were averaging like $50, yikes! I also didn't like how small they were. I think a better alternative would be to take a monitor mount and attach it to a mirror of choice.

Here is a starter list of the item's you'll need:
Mount

Mirror

Piece of wood to connect the mount and mirror. (Just make sure it's slightly larger than the mount head. I would suggest using a tight bonding glue to secure the wood to the back of the mirror. Also make sure its not just attaching to paper on the back only).

~Those 3 pieces will probably set you back around $20. But you might already have some of that stuff around the house, so bonus!

Since the mirror is off the counter, you can focus on storage space. This is where you can get creative. Depending on your budget, there are loads of ways to go here.
From the easiest and possibly cheapest ways like plastic storage, to heavier wood storage, this is where you might find budget and or time issues.
I looked around and similar wood drawers can also be pretty damn expensive. But that doesn't mean you have to settle for cheapy-looking stuff.

Here's what I would do:
Buy 2 of these and a bottle of matte white spray paint (or color of choice) and spray paint them so they don't look plasticy and cheapy. If you are feeling daring, then make a design! After the white paint dries entirely, stencil out a decal (maybe a trio of nail polishes?), tape it to the front, and spraypaint a different color over the white!
That would give it a nice warm touch without spending hardly any cash.
You could do similar ideas with items like These stackable drawers.
This is basicallyhow I envision these being used.

I guess what I personally don't like about a lot of battle-stations is how much clutter there is. The stations always look adorable but they have a trillion pieces of makeup showing. I think a few pieces showing is enough, so I'm kind of a storage freak. :P
I'll give you an example. Here is how I see most makeup-battle-stations. All I can think about is crap everywhere. And no piece of makeup has a home! How sad :(
But, thankfully This would be a very simple solution.

Painting the drawers to hide the contents, to me, is a necessary step. But you mentioned you were construction savvy, so you could even build her a nice storage drawer :)
Maybe something like So? Or like So?.

Let me know if you'd like additional advice, and good luck!

Gallery: http://imgur.com/gallery/7N0G8

The end of 2016 brought in some really nice upgrades to my AV setup, including:

TV - Samsung KS8000 65" - Not too much to say about this TV as it's very widely discussed on this subreddit. I scored it with EPP pricing and 10% (doubles to 20%) cash back through discover for around $800 all said and done.

http://www.samsung.com/us/televisions-home-theater/tvs/4k-suhd-tvs/65-class-ks8000-8-series-4k-suhd-tv-2016-model-un65ks8000fxza/

AVR - Yamaha TSR-7810 - This is the Costco version of the Yamaha RX-V781. Purchased new for $464 after a $25 off coupon. Very capable unit for the price.

http://usa.yamaha.com/products/audio-visual/av-receivers-amps/tsr/tsr-7810/

Game Console - Xbox One S - Used for gaming, streaming and as UHD player.

http://www.xbox.com/en-US/xbox-one-s

Front speakers - Axiom M60 V2 - Scored these audiophile grade speakers along with the side surrounds for $400 dollars total on craigslist. Great price for 4 higher end speakers imo.

http://www.axiomaudio.com/m60-floorstanding-speakers

Side Surrounds - Axiom M3ti - Purchased these along with the M60 fronts for $400. A little large for surround speakers, but I figured I may as well use them since I have them.

http://www.axiomaudio.com/m3-bookshelf-speakers

Speaker Stands - Pangea Audio LS300 - I needed 36" speaker stands and these fit the bill. Reasonable stands for the price of $139. I have the columns mass loaded with play sand.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01EVNE96C/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Speaker Mounts - VideoSecu speaker mounts - Some cheap wall mounts, pretty sturdy and have decent positioning capabilities.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000X9O8SI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Here is the existing gear that I did not upgrade yet but is still being used:

Center Channel - Polk Audio CSi3 - Part of my older entry level stuff. This is the next thing I am looking to upgrade as I'd like to match the center to the fronts. TBH I don't really notice difference in timbre as much as others may.

http://www.crutchfield.com/S-JdQDXbhbK4P/p_107CSI3B/Polk-Audio-CSi3-Black-oak-finish.html

Subwoofer - Velodyne CHT-8 - Go ahead, laugh. Yeah it's only an 8" subwoofer but it does the job for now. Provides pretty good LFE for it's size, just doesn't extend very low. I currently live in a rented townhouse and the wall where the TV is is shared with my neighbor. I'm looking to upgrade to a 12" in the future, either SVS or HSU. But most likely won't happen while I'm living here.

http://www.audioreview.com/cat/speakers/subwoofers/velodyne-acoustics/cht-8/prd_286736_2741crx.aspx

Rear surrounds - Polk Audio M10 - These are pretty cheap speakers, but they could be worse. I don't have any plans on upgrading these unless i find a great deal on something used, or if they break.

https://www.amazon.com/polk-audio-m10-bookshelf-cherry-pair/dp/b002bsha66?tag=indifash06-20

Moving forward and comments:

I would like to get a 2 channel amp to power my front speakers to really wake up their full range. If anyone could recommend a good stereo amp that I could hook up to my pre outs that would be great. I have no experience in external amps and am pretty clueless to it honestly.

I know my cable management is not the greatest ,but unfortunately being a rented house there is not too much I can do.

I do realize that my rear soundstage is a little on the cramped side, the Side surrounds are rather close to the couch and so are the rears. I am lucky enough as it is that I got my GF to agree to moving the couch from the wall in the first place. Honestly, even with it being cramped I get a good effect and immersion, so I'm happy.

Subwoofer placement - This isn't really where I want the sub to go, but I did the crawl and it sounded decent here. Having a neighbor sort of forbids me to place it in the front soundstage.

TV is crooked. I have the TV mounted on the cheapest stand ever from Wal-Mart about 5 years ago. Eventually when I'm a homeowner the TV will get a proper wall mount, but this will do for now.

If anyone has any critiques or comments feel free to give me input. I'm always looking for ways to improve my setup.

• Screens:
  Your laptop appears to have a M5970 /w VGA, HDMI and DisplayPort and Eyefinity support.
  I'd recommend x2 of these IPS screens: Dell u2410. These screens have very good picture quality and their connections fits your laptop prefectly. They are pricy, but IPS provides the best picture quality.
  
  You may also check 2412 and the 2312, however they do not have HDMI.
  
  ----
  
  
• Keyboard:
  Mechanical /w Cherry MX blue, or MX Brown if you prefer more silent keys (video comparing sound levels).
  
  Check out brands like DAS, Filco, Leopold, Ducky, wasdkeyboards.com
  
  ----
  
  
• To connect your PS3 to a monitor you have two options: use connect laptop to monitor using DisplayPort cable and PS3 to monitor with HDMI OR purchase a HDMI switch. Then, connect HDMI cable from your laptop plus the HDMI from your PS3 into the switch and connect the switch to the screen. You want a active switchr /w it's own power supply. You can also get HDMI switches with remote control. With the switch I linked, adding a TV above your station would not be an issue at all.
  
  ----
  
  
• For monitor mounts you got two basic options: wall mount or a desk mount/arm. I can't speak for the wall mount, but I have three of those desk mounts and very happy with the purchase. You have to decide which mount fit you best. They both have their advantages.
  
  ----
  
  For your laptop you got countless options. Here's my suggestions:
  
  
• Although this does not hide the laptop in any way, I think a laptop stand like this one looks pretty awesome. An advantage with this setup is that you can tie the cables to the mount's arm and thus always be available. You will always know where the cables are, that they are long enough and you can plug them in to your PC even when sitting.
  
  
• If you have a keyboard tray but don't use it, the tray would be an ideal place to hide the laptop. It'd be completely hidden and have almost the same cable management benefits of the mount.
  
  
• Laptop stand. Just to mention it. Cables everywhere, possibly limited moveability due to cable length, terrible cable management.
  
  ----
  
  
  
  Unfortunately I can't help you with iPad or chair, but I would advice against a glass desk. You will have a harder time with cable management and you will always be able to see your cables. If you get a desk such as the Galant series from Ikea, you get more options for cable management (such as trays and cable holes).

I drew on your map for the hell of it :P Probably not necessary to do that to give recommendations, but it was fun. Witness!

C9 is a great TV, call it $2k.

I would get two subs. A pair of VTF-2 is fine, but go VTF-3 if you don't want to wonder if you got enough sub. I marked the corners in the image with 1/2/3/4, I'd first try opposing corners and see how that sounds and/or measures. $1150 shipped for the pair of VTF-2, $1750 shipped for the pair of VTF-3. For $600 more you get a pair of 15" subs and no wondering. I say $1750 on the sub category.

I've drawn your setup from the top, so I'll go ahead and tell you what I drew for speakers - it's probably hard to tell from the black rectangles :)

The fronts are a pair of Paradigm Premier 200B bookshelfs on short stands, so they don't look stupid up on that shelf. You might not even need the stands, if the 24" from the shelf gets the tweeters to your ear level. $1k/pair, 20% off right now so $800.

The matching 600C center channel is a BEAST and is also on sale for $800, front stage total $1600. I just can't say enough good things about this lineup, if you have a dealer nearby, go give them a listen.

The surrounds I've shown on swivel mounts turned inwards to face the seating. You can also aim them a bit out into the room for a less direct sound, but I find with modern receivers and decoders, this isn't necessary. I'd suggest a pair of Paradigm Premier 100B, $640 on sale for these, on a set of the sturdy and affordable VideoSecu side clamping mounts, $25.

Tops, again, Paradigm, this time the P65-R in-ceiling speaker. I'm actually suggesting these based on personal use. They are the flattest, best measuring speakers in my system, and never mind the aimable tweeters - these speakers are designed for good, even dispersion, and it's amazing how well they work. Aimable tweeters are there to make up for dispersion and placement shortcomings, and you will have neither if you go with the P-65Rs. Don't pay retail for these, ask the dealer for at least 20% off since you're buying a full set of speakers. If they say no, find another dealer. It's a poorly kept secret that Paradigm very seldom sells for full MSRP. Call it $500 for the pair.

For the receiver, I know people like to suggest buying a refurb from accessories4less, but I've heard too many horror stories about broken equipment and poor support. I'd suggest the X3500h from Crutchfield, a rock solid company that will have your back if anything is wrong with the gear. The receiver itself has plenty of power for my recommended speakers, and has the best version of Audyssey, XT32 - important to get the most out of your subwoofers in particular. The X2600h you mentioned only has Audyssey XT, which is rather inferior to XT 32. $600.

Totals, then, are:

65" LG C9 TV $2000

Paradigm Premier 200B Front L/R $800

Paradigm Premier 600C Center $800

Paradigm Premier 100B Surrounds $665 with mounts

Paradigm Pro P65-R Tops $500

2x Hsu VTF-3 Mk5 Subs $1750

Denon X3500h Receiver $600

Total before cables $7115

($10 subwoofer cables and any decent copper 14 gauge speaker wire are fine)

Now, all that said, I would strongly consider the 77 inch LG C9. You'd still be just under budget, and sitting as far as you will be, the extra size will really help the system come together. The only question is if you have enough vertical space over the center channel speaker. If you do, grab the 77" and don't look back :)

I also disagree on tops/Atmos not being useful if you only do sports and TV. Asides from native Atmos content, receiver upmixing with the Dolby Surround upmixer is really quite awesome. It adds an immersiveness to the sound that you just can't get with a 2d audio setup.

That receiver is a good choice if it meets all your needs. There are certainly better receivers, but those added features don’t matter if you don’t plan to use them.

Bookshelf speakers can be fairly easily mounted. If you’re lucky, the speakers you decide on will have built in wall mounts. This isn’t super common anymore, but there are some. Another option is speaker stands, which are pretty straightforward. Lastly there are lots of speaker wall mounts you can get on amazon. I’ve used these wall mounts for my JBL LSR305 monitors which are pretty heavy and had no issues what so ever. They aren’t the prettiest but they get the job done cheaply.

Your room size is actually very close to mine. I too debated on what size speakers to get. I settled on 5.25” woofer bookshelf speakers and feel these are the smallest I’d go for this room. I think the next size up would be ideal, but if you have a sub you can probably do 5.25” no problem. It seems the Miccas are best served in small applications like offices, bedroom sized room. I can’t speak personally about them, but through my own research this is what I discovered.

I have refurbished / reconditioned or otherwise repaired just about every component in my theater. The KEF speakers are all same era and generation, plus or minus a few years.

Front Channels: KEF 103/4 Reference speakers - owner replaced foam surrounds on the internal push/pull woofers - and I refurbished the ferrofluid in the tweeters. $175 off craigslist

Center Channel: NOS (new old stock) KEF Model 100 - found on craigslist. Someone found it in their garage, sitting new in box for 20 years. Refurbished the tweeter (ferrofluid replacement). $60 off craigslist.

Surround Channels: KEF C55 speakers that I found at Goodwill for $20. Complete cleanup - ferrofluid treatment of tweeters. Great condition otherwise.

Rear Channel: KEF Model 90 "center channel" speaker - bought this before I found the Model 100. Roughly the same speaker, but smaller tweeter than the model 100. Tweeter refurbed, cleaned up inside and out. I went with a 6.1 configuration because my room wouldn't benefit much from 7.1 - and the window placement made that difficult. Mixing 7.1 down to 6.1 doesn't change much. $40 off Craigslist.

Subwoofer: PA-120 Premier Acoustics 12'' Subwoofer had this sub for 8 years now, and love it to pieces. Very punchy, very powerful, very affordable. Weighs a metric ton - and customer service was top notch. (Amp malfunctioned after 6 years - got a new one from them free of charge).

Surround AV Receiver: Marantz SR6008 receiver I bought for $200 on ebay because it was 'for parts/not working.' The HDMI1 output (there are two) was burned out. Bought a new HDMI board from Marantz for a hundred bucks and the thing is good as new.

Speaker Mounts: The left C55 surround and rear channel are on custom made speaker mounts - the rear is half custom - mounted to one of the speaker mounts I got from Amazon.

Projection Screen: Custom 105'' Screen Frame and made from a canibalized Da-Lite screen I got for free from work. (was hiding in the plenum when we purchased our office space.

Projector: Benq HT1075 - bought new, because it's already so cost effective. Found it on sale at Frys for $699 a year ago. Very happy with this little projector.

Theater/Home Automation: Home Assistant running on an iPad 3 in the theater room. The iPad was sitting in a drawer, not in use for at least a year, and found an OEM apple dock for $5 on ebay for when it's not in use. I can control my Smart Things devices (z-wave dimmer) - MiLight LED strips behind the screen, in the EXIT light, and the bulbs in the uplight/spotlights in the room, I also integrated Broadlink RM2 support for controlling cheap 433mhz outlet switches for the air purifier, popcorn machine, and whatever else I need to control.

Movie Posters: Marketing department had a bunch of these frames in storage from an old PR campaign. Tore out the foamcore inserts, found high res posters, and ordered them on this silk-like fabric directly from China for $9 a pop. They look incredible up close, almost lithograph-like.

RGB Lighting: Generic RGB Strips I bought for $5 a pop on price mistake with Milight RGB controllers. Milight 9W RGBW bulbs I got for $13 each in $15 brushed steel uplights from Lamps Plus. All controled with the Milight WiFi controller through Home Assistant.

Seating was transitioned from the living room when we bought new sofas - raised the rear seating on 10'' platform. 12GA Speaker wire from my local wire wholesaler (similar price to monoprice). Looking for some carpet options - and have a lead on a local seller of OC703 for acoustic panels.

It's come a long way in a year - here's a before and after - December 2015 and April 2016 -- not the most recent, obviously - but I'm very proud with how it's coming together.

Thanks for posting

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The obligatory "just got my Vive" post by ncviver


Damn. God damn. It's really, really good. I had some ordering issues (because I used PayPal Credit and didn't create an HTC account I couldn't check the order status on my own) but it arrived quickly and works so so well. I got two of these tripods plus two of these brackets since I wanted some mobility. So far I've used it in the living room with two tripods and in my bedroom with one of the included wall mounts and a tripod. It works great, though I do plan on installing the other wall mount (plus these two in the living room) soon.

My only complaint at this time (after maybe 3 hours of usage) is that it seems like a major oversight that there's not much instruction on how to adjust it to fit your head. Initially, I was actually pretty disappointed-- the FOV sucked and apart from a narrow sweet spot it was quite blurry. But after finding this guide it's working fine.

but yeah, right now I'm really impressed. I've only really played around with The Lab so far since my wallet is a bit too sore to start buying tons of games, but I'm guessing that'll happen pretty soon.

	

	

	

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My 2 cents for a $1500 budget Coffee Shop...

• Simple 4 Channel Pre-amp w/ Phono - $80
  
  
• Apple TV - $100 For your Airplay needs.
  
  
• FM Tuner - $100 (You will need one eventually)
  
  
• AT Turntable - $230 Vintage would also work so look used to save some cash.
  
  
• RCA Distribution Amp - $30
  
  
• Dayton 12 Channel Amp - $500 Expandable later but I assume you will use 8 channels to start.
  
  
• Micca Motion MB42x I recommend four pair (8 speakers) - $320. Even a small coffee shop will be better suited with more, quieter speakers. Demo'd Here
  
  
• Speaker Mounting Brackets - $140 I HIGHLY recommend using the screw holes on the clamps to secure the speakers with small ~1" wood screws. THEN Secure the bracket to the wall with a safety strap. Liability covered.
  
  I recommend mounting these brackets up-side down so you can aim the speakers down at costumers. (presuming you have high enough ceilings to support it)
  
  $80+100+100+230+30+500+320+140=$1500 ON THE NOSE!

I used these mounts in my home office (which is a bedroom) with a pair of Micca MB42X bookshelf speakers. The room is 14x17. Ceilings are 9 feet. I mounted them with the arm 16 inches below the crown moulding. They mounted with two wall anchors a piece. Took longer to measure and mark the wall than it did to hang them. Less than an hour in total including putting the wired speaker in them.

They hold the speakers with tension so you don’t have to put screws in your nice speakers. You turn a screw on the mount and the sides squeeze the speaker base with rubber lined jaws. That’s nice because you can change your speakers in about five minutes when you want to upgrade. Just need a screwdriver and a chair to stand on.

They have angle adjustment, but not enough for my room. I put a black rubber doorstop under each speaker and it worked fine. Can’t even see them because they match the speaker and mounts.

You can run the wire through the mounts if your wires are in the wall and you want that super clean look. I didn’t do that because we had just painted the room a few months prior and I didn’t want to cut into the sheetrock. I’m going to do that if we decide to stay in this house a few years.

I’m really pleased with them. They look nice. I’ve had lots of compliments on them. They were easy to put up. I have absolutely no room for floor or tower speakers and these worked perfectly. I couldn’t have speakers in this room without them.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000X9O8SI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I love my PlayStation challenge but would never consider it a recliner/home theater chair. It’s just not comfortable for that. It feels like a racing seat though and feels like a good fit for any cockpit game.

I do believe it is about the only option for something that can be folded and put away with easy.

I attached the HOTAS to mine with relative ease using some pole mount monitor mounts. I did have to wrap some stuff around the poles to make them thick enough for the mounts though. But it worked out really well.

Bracket Pole Mount VESA75/100 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PZDB2HM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_gi.YAb9K8N6GW

Overall I’m very happy with my setup

If you're opening up your ceiling to run wires and install speakers, depending on how the floor joists are (engineered vs straight up 2 x 8's) you may want to think about blown in insulation to help with noise transfer to the rest of the house.

> but any other suggestions for good looking sound proofing would help.

Check out http://www.soundproofingcompany.com/ they do free reviews/estimates to help give you an idea on what is feasible and what you can do.

As a side note, acoustic panels are less about sound proofing and more about fixing room acoustics (echos, bouncing).

> I do want Dolby Atmos and DTS:X capability but was not sure the best setup, looking at either a 5.1.6 (all 6 ceiling speakers) or possibly doing a 7.1.4 (setting 2 of the 6 ceiling speaker listed as mid-highs possibly?)

Just be aware that 6 channels of atmos is expensive, you're looking at something like the Denon X8500 to do 6 channels of atmos right now. Your 7200 can't do 6 overhead channels, maxes out at 4.

If you're hiring someone, wire for everything (Top fronts, top middles, top rears, front heights and rear heights) once its opened up the cost will be minimal for adding all that.

> Lastly, the rear speakers are limited on placement due to windows, but it appears to have just enough room between the windows and the sliding doors.

Speaker stands, they never hurt anyone and allows you to run rear surrounds.

That or the small section of wall you do have between the patio door and the windows could easily wall mount rear surround speakers.

If this was my room that is probably what I'd do, is wall mount the speakers with Speaker mounts like these on each side of the patio door.

I wouldn't know how to mount the joystick between your legs, but I recently mounted my throttle on the left arm of my chair and my joystick on the right. I have this kind of chair and I used two of these brackets. You clamp one onto each arm, swivel them up, then just velcro your joystick/throttle onto the flat surface. Since it's velcro you can detach them anytime you want, which is nice.

The brackets are kinda expensive at $35 each, but it was pretty worth it for me, it's a very comfortable setup and honestly a lot easier than trying to build something yourself. I sit in this chair while playing Elite Dangerous in VR and it feels just like I'm in a cockpit.

I've really enjoyed lurking/learning in this community and decided to share what I've put together. I stumbled in here shortly after purchasing an R610 from savemyserver and the posts here have provided a lot of inspiration! Here's what my garage setup looks like:

On the Wall (Photo 1):
Two horizontal 2x4's attached to studs provide a foundation for the 4U wall-mount rack and the pegboard (which is suspended by screw hooks and swings out to provide access to the backside). Had the ISP install a new coax drop in the garage to feed the modem. Use a pair of ZyXel PLA5456's to get a wired connection to the top floor; the throughput is crap but I don't see much latency or jitter (photos 5 & 6) and it's a better experience overall than wifi in some parts of the house.

1. Juniper SRX210
   

• Used for labbing, currently unplugged
  
• On loan from employer
  

2. Ubiquiti AP-AC-LR
   
3. RaspberryPi 2 (in a cobbled custom-designed LEGO enclosure)
   

• Backup OpenVPN server (primary is a Pritunl VM)
  

4. Intel NUC
   

• Used to be my server before the R610 came along, now it's unplugged and waiting for another project
  

5. 4U Startech Wall-Mount Rack
   

• See details below
  

6. Seagate HDD
   
7. Seagate HDD
   
8. ActionTec MOCA Adapter
   

• For the TiVo, renting from ISP
  

9. Arris CM850 Cable Modem
   

• Renting from ISP
  

10. Dell XPS 630i
    

• Destined to be NAS/iSCSI datastore
  

11. APC UPS XS1500
    
    
    Rack Detail (Photo 2):
    Here are the details of the rack-mounted gear:
    
    
12. Dell PowerEdge R610
    

• VMWare ESXi host
  
• (2x) Intel Xeon E5645 2.40GHz Hexa Core Processors
  
• 64GB (8x8) PC3-10600R DDR3 RAM
  
• (4x) 140GB 10k SAS HDDs (RAID 10)
  
• 260GB 7200 SATA HDD
  
• 240GB SATA SSD
  

2. Cisco WS-C2960G-24TC-L
   

• Core switch
  
• On loan from employer
  

3. Juniper SRX340
   

• Core router, firewall
  
• On loan from employer
  
  
  Server Mount Detail (Photo 3):
  The server is resting loose on the 4U rack - the front is sandwiched between the wall and the Cisco switch while the rear is suspended by a wall-mounted 40 lb. hook (look for the orange prongs). The hook is mounted to a 2x4 and drilled into a wall stud (hidden by the server in photos). The only way it's going anywhere is a big earthquake, in which case I'll have bigger problems anyhow.
  
  
  Network Diagram (Photo 4):
  My day job is networking so that's the part I most care about when diagramming. I'm using a "router-on-a-stick" topology with a four gig LACP LAG connecting the router to the switch. The switch feeds all other equipment according to VLAN. The R610 uses one port each dedicated to management and iSCSI traffic (although I have yet to actually use the iSCSI part) with the other two ports LAG'd to the switch (although this LAG doesn't use LACP because I'm not using VDS). That LAG trunks the rest of the VLANs which terminate in individual port groups. I keep a separate vswitch and port group isolated to give me a spot to put interfaces where they can't hurt anybody.
  
  The SRX340 is the DHCP server, firewall, and DNS cache for all VLANs except VLAN-UNTRUST (which is the L2 domain connected to the cable modem, a DMZ of sorts; anything in it can get a WAN IP). Most subnets are split in half with the first /25 reserved for static clients and the second /25 handed out via DHCP. All subnets follow the 10.0.X.0/24 scheme, where X = VLAN ID, except for VLAN-MGMT because I like using 172.X.0.0/24's for loopbacks, tunnels, and other bits internal to the route engine.
  
  DNS is a little weird. It flows like this: [clients] > [SRX] > [PiHole VM] > [OpenDNS]. This provides local caching, ad blocking, and content filtering, in that order. Is it a little crazy to have three hops for DNS? Maybe. Could something like pfSense do all those things in one hop? Probably, but that wouldn't be anywhere near as fun! Besides, cold requests aren't so slow that I notice.
  
  At work I have the great benefit of access to a dedicated, separate test network that has its own ISP connection in addition to the corporate-managed network. The ERL is basically setup for dual-WAN (although really it's just static routing) so that traffic destined for my home's external address is routed out the test network (reducing the use of corporate resources) while all else gets passed to corporate (so I can still access what I need internally). A Pritunl VPN interface then gives me routes to my home's VLAN-MGMT, -TRUST, and -DEV so I can manage things while away. The ERL is connected to a small switch at my desk creating it's own little LAN into which I plug my work PC, other lab routers, etc.

I personally would just install a new device box on the stud, run romex up to it and install a new outlet, but I did find this, which I found very interesting. other than the price... I'm not sure what wiring they used between the male and female power inputs, but the issue that arises is friction. Especially if the TV mount telescopes, wires don't like un-needed friction, or un-needed kinks as these lead to breakage either of the outer casing or the internal wiring itself. Just not safe but I'm glad someone else "backed me up" to show there truly is a valid reasoning not to do it. Also, with Romex being a solid core wire, I believe it must be "protected"/permanent. So a romex type extension cord wouldn't quite do the job. Running another outlet is the safest, code compliant method, but even then you must make sure you're not only running it safely, but not overloading a breaker as well. 12AWG Romex must be used at minimum, 14 is acceptable in homes, but only for light switches FYI, the rest must be at minimum 12AWG. (in the US, once again...)

So you can mix and match speakers as long as your front speakers(left, right, and center) are all the same series. You would have two options for when you sold your house, either remove them and patch the drywall or leave them in. If you aren't planning on staying there long it's probably better to get on wall. For your side speakers you want them between 90-110 degrees from your center position (with 90 being directly beside you). For Atmos you would want to mount them on the wall and angle them to you listening position then rely on your receiver's room correction to fix the delay between one speaker being farther away than the other.

As for sealed vs front ported for front speakers I don't think it matters as much but when you are looking at thinner speakers you'll probably only find sealed. You just don't want speakers with rear ports as you need some space behind the speaker. As for subwoofers sealed subwoofers are tighter (due to air pressure forcing the speaker back to center) but can't play as loud for lower frequencies unlike ported subwoofers that play louder at lower frequencies (due to the speaker not being restricted in motion by air pressure) and also the larger physical volume of the subwoofer the better it will sound. Better explanation here. You buy your subwoofer based on your room not your other speakers. Getting an on wall subwoofer sounds like a bad idea. First off they will be slim which means you'll probably have to pay 2-3x the price to get similar quality and second mounting the subwoofer on the wall is going to transfer physical vibration into your wall.

If it was me I'd say screw paying for significantly more for form factor and find front ported bookshelf speakers (htd level 3, monitor audio bronze 2, ect) that were visually pleasing to the wife, buy mounts like this, mount the front speakers 10-12 feet apart with the tweeter ear level, put the center below the tv either on the top of tv stand or mounted below it, get a nice subwoofer from svs, hsu, rythmic, or monoprice's monolith series, ported is better for movies so that's what I'd get despite them being huge and slap that in a corner or behind the couch which leads me to my next suggestion which is move the couch forward a foot or 2 so you have some space between the couch and the surround speaker or you could just mount them higher and point then down. Due to the fact your not centered in the room I wouldn't do in wall for surround or Atmos and would get something relatively cheap for surrounds as not really that much plays out of them compared to the center and sub during movies (still worth getting tho). Then I'd work on getting your cable management superb as that's going to help you sell it to your wife if you can hide all those cables either in the walls or with cable covers.

> CHANE A2.4 can be used as a LCR?(left center right)?

Correct. Their tweeters can be rotated by hand using just a screwdriver as they are in a horizontal alignment from the factory but many rotate them after shipping and use the speakers vertically all the way across or at least for the left and right speaker. Chane owner/speaker designer Jon Lane can walk you through it fairly easily.


>The eventual goal is for a 5.1 setup. should I get 3 CHANE A2.4 then 2 other surrounds and a subwoofer or get 5 CHANE A2.4 then subwoofer?

If your goal is to listen to a lot of multi channel music then having matching Chane bookshelves as side surrounds makes some sense but if not and mostly listening to 2 channel stereo or Direct then matching the surrounds speakers isn't a necessity. The Chane bookshelf A1.4 is a large and fairly heavy bookshelf that usually needs a mount with a metal pad to secure it like from VideoSeCu. Plus yes I recommend a subwoofer. A $400 to $600 subwoofer budget will get you a good quality subwoofer but lesser budgets can be accommodated as well. I have Rythmik subwoofers with my Chane‘s.

>****I know I sound like an idiot.

Anything but !

QUICK FIX IT OH MY GOD YOUR HOUSE IS PROBABLY BURNING DOWN RIGHT NOW@!%!@#

Sheesh. Yeah, it's not up to code. But 90% of mounted TVs I've seen use a kit like this to run through the wall, and that's a LOT longer run than he's doing with his straight pass-through. He's not up to code, but I wouldn't worry in the slightest about how he did this.

That said, OP - it would look cleaner to run a new outlet into the closet from the one that you've got. If you want an easier solution without ripping up so much wall that will help you pass code without sticking ugly u channel all over, you can use something like this kit.

Thats funny. I actually had that mount for a while. I don't want to say it sucks but it wasn't good. It looks ok but adjusting it is a nightmare and I think I ended up bending mine a bit.

You could do something like using a 2x2 piece of wood but you can't just have it sit in the drop ceiling support. Notice the wire coming of the corners of the Peerless tile bracket. Those attach to the actual ceiling. You may be able to hang a small projector from the suspended ceiling but I would be careful.

The peerless unit you link to is just the bracket, you also need the actual mount for the projector that screws onto that piece. Like this: http://www.amazon.com/Peerless-PRGUNV-Precision-Universal-Projector/dp/B000TXNS6G/ref=pd_sim_e_1?ie=UTF8&refRID=0XT4H2VE4PKMAB8S8JZ9

That is a much better mount and much easier to adjust. That is what we use where I work and I love them. I swap projectors all the time. Probably 10 just last month, so in my situation an easy to use mount is high on my want list.

I agree about the marantz 7010, I have the same and it's amazing! I also agree about 5.1.4 over 7.1.2, but if you have the scratch to upgrade your receiver then 7.1.4 is great! Even better is 7.2.4 :)

I have a def tech setup for my theater and am using deftech 800's for my atmos speakers. I used these mounts: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005BV0FHG/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1 and they're working quite well.

Ok, no no on the fan attachment idea. Let's go with in front of the fan.

What about one of these mounts, they claim to be easily detachable?

http://www.amazon.com/Peerless-PRGUNV-Precision-Universal-Projector/dp/B000TXNS6G

http://www.vogels.com/vpc-545-projector-ceiling-mount.html#.VKD7dl4AKA

When not in use, I could easily disconnect the projector.

Or what about something like this:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N7Umo_4DPQc

Look at 00:58. Easily removable.

That's just part one obviously because I need the projector to be lowered when in use...

What if I built/purchased some sort of adjustable pole that went into the ceiling, and attached the mount to this pole? There doesn't seem to be a mount that is easily detachable + adjustable.

------------------------------------------------

All that being said, I'm open to new options, if they'll fit my needs. My fear with going with a projector that isn't short throw and mounting it on say, the back wall of my room, is I don't think I'd be able to sit as close to the screen as I would want, because the projected image would... hit me, wouldn't it? It would have to be 20 inches from the ceiling to start with to clear the fan, but the projected light would also have to clear me in my chair, which reaches 47 inches from the floor. To create a 100 inch image, I don't know if it could fit in that small a window. I opted for short throw so I could sit right under it basically, and sit fairly close. I know sitting close is not recommended and maybe I'll scoot back a few more feet but, I like sitting close, like within 6 feet. This is my bedroom.

I don't want to put it on a table just because I would hate seeing it when I'm watching a movie, I would rather it be out of sight.

But I really think one of those detachable mounts+a home made adjustable pole could work in theory. Yes I'll lose my fan while watching movies but at least I'll have it when I'm not.

I use two of these mounted to an office chair, fits a CH Pro Fighterstick right hand and a T16000M left hand. You'll need industrial Velcro or some kind of strong adhesive to fasten it tight to the mount. You should be aware that the mount is smaller than how the picture depicts it and the base of the sticks is larger than the mount bracket, but if you put the velcro on correctly it should work fine. Also, the mount adjusts at 3 separate joints so you have some flexibility but it does not extend so you need to be able to attach the mount to right where you want your stick to be. I can send you a picture of my setup later if you want more info, just let me know. Definitely gets the job done though, would recommend on a budget

Edit: Sorry, I actually use this. It's the same brand but this one gives you more adjustability, you may not be able to get the positioning to a comfortable position with only one joint

Not sure how heavy they are, but if you can find a good mounting spot for something like these insert nuts, it can be an easy fix. JB Weld them on, then most standard 1/4-20 thread wall mounts, like these, will work like a charm.

Thanks for the good wishes! I did a lot of research and ended up using this to mount it flat into the wall. Asked my neighbor who had good experience in handyman jobs and recommended the anchors to use.

You'll never know unless you try, gotta say this is something I would not recommend someone to blindly just go for it unless, you have the appropriate materials and you feel confident in doing it.

It was scary and a good learning experience because is something I've never done in my life. I might try it with my TV eventually and I'll probably ask a friend to help me out lol.

Yep!

I am using these bracket pole mounts, which seem to be super popular for this particular purpose - and for good reason! Works splendidly. They can be turned and pivoted in various ways, making them super adaptable.

I have used pieces of wood to attach things to the flat armrest things - not exactly difficult to make, given that I live in a village: http://i.imgur.com/ZUV2EWM.jpg

I've seen others use rubber doorstops and similar things to keep things in place where wood is not readily available.

I should really make a separate post about my setup...

>My concern would be the ease at which they adjust. If the stands are somewhere less than accessible, or are difficult to adjust, it would defeat the point of this use case.

Usually with stereo or surround sound speakers/woofers, they have an ideal position relative to the listener.

The challenge is usually with getting the wires and power to those position to allow ideal placement. Once there, there isn't a great need to fiddle with the speaker position too much afterwards.

I think it's more important that a speaker stand/mount be sturdy and stable than be easily adjustable. IMO, just something that'll let you place the speakers at the right distance from you at the right height, and maybe help manage wires would do.

If you have walls (and you're able to drill into those walls), speaker wall mounts are an affordable option.
If you have space around your desk, a speaker stand is a good way to go also.

Otherwise, if you have the room, you can add drawers/file cabinets to the sides of your desk to extend your desktop a bit, or get a bigger desk like you mentioned.

I would also suggest picking up some speaker wires.

Purchased a 24 in monitor (HP 23.8-inch FHD IPS Monitor https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072M34RQC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_46cZAb054KP52 )

and the Raspberry Pi Dakboard CPU (DAKboard CPU - For your Photos, Calendar, News, Weather and To-Do. Wifi connected. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073VCTDDL/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_pddZAbM0J6JEP)

Next to the bathroom mirror running a family calendar link days agenda for shared events.

Wall mount
(VideoSecu LCD LED Monitor TV Wall Mount for 15" 17" 19" 20" 22" 23" 24" 26" 27" Flat Panel Screen Maximum Loading 66lbs VESA 75/100 - Ultra Thin Mount Bracket 1EA https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000VKCIJU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_nodZAb3DEEZTZ)

Bottom edge of monitor had a white label with monitor specs so I just put a piece of black electrical tape over this to hide it. I'll probably use another small tape piece to cover the monitor on led in the corner of the display too.

Don't forget to copy your custom dakboard url into the settings page once you complete the step by step instructions that come with the Dakboard CPU so when you reboot the Rasp Pi CPU your custom and beautiful screen appears on the monitor.

These could probably make for a great medicine cabinet door replacement too as the positioning would be good. Would be really awesome with an off switch behind a reflective glass so when off the mirror works and when tapped the dakboard display appears.

My wife and I recently moved into our new home and the basement is mine to do with what I please. Naturally, getting my listening station all set up was a priority. It’s not a fancy set up but it looks good and it sounds really good. I’m running a Technics SL-D2, Pioneer CT-M6R cassette player, Onkyo 2 channel receiver, a pair of Chane Audio book shelf speakers, an old Cambridge Soundworks subwoofer that I got when I was in high school back in ‘99 but it adds some really nice beef to the sound. The only thing I might change are the speakers. I may opt out of using those stands as they are not very sturdy on the carpet. I was thinking about getting these:

VideoSecu One Pair of Side Clamping Bookshelf Speaker Mounting Bracket with Swivel and Tilt for Large Surrounding Sound Speakers MS56B 3LH https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000X9O8SI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_78m0Cb1456B4H

And mounting them to the posts. Anyone have experience with these mounts? Thanks.

Yeah, SVS has their own mounting brackets they sell. Ideally, the speakers shouldn't be just nailed to the wall, as they are rear ported, but since you are crossing them over with a sub, it's not a huge deal. However, I would definitely get a mounting bracket and use them to angle the speakers down (they should be aimed at your seating), and that would also give you some separation from the wall.

Typically, when mounting, you want front-ported or sealed speakers. When a speaker is ported, all the lower frequencies it produces causes air to be pushed out of the speaker, and when mounting a rear ported speaker, that air is getting bounced back; so that's why getting a mounting bracket for them is better than nailing them.

Also, I'm not sure their distance is ideal. For the front L/R, they should be at least 17° apart from the center. For exact measurements, measure the distance from the wall to your seating, then multiply that by tan(17°) (make sure degrees and not radians), that is the minimum distance they should be apart from the center. For instance, if you sit 10ft away (120"), each speaker should be ~36.5" from the center and ~73" apart from each other.

For much simpler calculation, instead of tan(17°), just do 0.3x for center to bookshelf or 0.6x for bookshelf to bookshelf.

Remember, that's the minimum. Also, the L/R should be angled inwards (aimed at the center of the seating), so that's also why you should get those mounting brackets. If those SVS ones will take too long to ship, you might want to buy clamping mounts.

A center is commonly seen mounted above, as the tv would usually be blocked. However, the front L/R are still ideally placed at ear level. They will work fine at that height though.

Recently upgraded my Hackintosh build with some better sound equipment. I chose some Definitive Technology Studio Monitor 350's which are hooked up to an old Onkyo TX-SR305 that I had lying around, fed by toslink from my desktop.

I mounted the monitors on the wall with some brackets I purchased off of Amazon-- a pair of VideoSecu MS56B 3LH. For $35 shipped, I have to say these are really great quality. The brackets are beefy and are rated for up to 33 lbs., which far exceeds the 14 lb. weight of each DefTech. The hardware, when tightened down, does not sag.

The studio monitors themselves are also a great value, currently clearanced at $149.99/pair at NewEgg with $2 shipping. I've always liked Definitive Technology as a company, and these bookshelf speakers far exceed anything else I've heard in this price range. Part of this is thanks to the passive radiators they have on their outer sides for bass.

In total, this upgrade was less than $200 and my office is now far more enjoyable to work in. I also use my desktop as a media server to house my music collection. As you can see in the last photo, my library is 342GB (47,918 songs) of V0 MP3s that I have hand-tagged myself.

HI mate! They're both 24" Monitors, different brands obviously so they don't look symmetrical, but both a similar weight.

But this is the stand i'm using;

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B01MR397OH/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

For the price its great I've been using it for months now and it works a treat, great movement too!

Been wanting to do a new computer build for a while now, but decided to start with a new desk and monitors.

3xASUS VG248QE 24" 144Hz monitors
Desk/side table/file cabinet/shelves from Ikea.

Still have some cable management, light blocking, shelf filling and general maintenence to do, but for now I'm just relaxing and enjoying it.

Thanks to this subreddit for helping me collect my thoughts for what I wanted to accomplish.



Edit to link included items:

KRK Rokit 5 Powered Studio Monitors

3xASUS VG248QE 24" 144Hz monitors

LED Kit

Wall Mounts

Cable Management Wrap

Desk

Screensaver (Solar Winds)

Huh. So, let me start by saying that I am a firm believer that rooms should work for the people who live in them. So, if you love this set-up, keep it. When you have people over, you can watch TV in the living room. No big deal.

If you're not crazy about this set-up, though, here are some ideas. A really simple fix would be to get one of these mounts. I have one for my TV, and it works great. That will let you angle the TV towards the bed if you want to relax and watch movies there.

Another option would be to angle the bed 90 degrees so it sits against the annoying windows, and then move the couch and table so they are across the way from the shower and bathroom. You could then either put the on the wall between the closet and bathroom, or you could set it in the corner at an angle into the room. Both the bed and the couch would be able to see it from there.

As for replacing your couch, I would say only do that if you want something more comfortable in your bedroom. Bed is the perfect place to watch movies when you're a couple, so I definitely don't think you need the additional seating for movie-watching in your bedroom.

Yeah, there are tons. Just make sure it's one that fits your projector (they have lists of compatible projectors), and one that reaches down long enough for you to get a perfect picture.

You don't need a pitch/yaw function, even less than you'd need lens shift on a projector. If you're ceiling mounting it, just make sure it's lined up perfectly and at the right height, and you should have no need to ever move it from there, and thus no need to ever use pitch/yaw.

Check this one out. it's pretty popular: http://smile.amazon.com/Peerless-PRGS-UNV-Precision-Universal-Projector/dp/B000TXNS6G/ref=sr_1_20?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1462456827&sr=1-20&keywords=projector+ceiling+mount

It's got an attachable arm to make it longer if need be. But, if you're paying for installation, the guy might be right, and getting that $150 mount might end up being cheaper, or close to the price, and you'd have a higher quality mount now too.

I like the Denons. If you go used, you could pick up something like the AVR 1712ci which is excellent, for about $75-150. It has Audyssey room correction for timing and EQ, which is great for improvement of sound.

You can also get good refurbed units from accessories4less. People here seem to like the Denons, Yamahas, and Integras at around $150.

But if you decide to go with the JBLs that I mentioned previously, you won't need a receiver.

Also, I would recommend you think long and hard about getting a sub now. If you are in a bedroom in someone else's house, they may not be too happy. Bass travels REALLY well, and subs will cause thumping to be heard all over the house, even with the door closed. The JBLs without the sub sound amazing and have plenty of bass for everything short of rap and dubstep/techno, but they do those genres fairly well too. (You can always add a sub later.)

Edit: mount

VideoSecu One Pair of Side... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000X9O8SI?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

The arms are hollow so I ran the speaker wires through them. I also used some Velcro cable ties as some extra insurance that the speakers won’t fall out. I think the arms are good enough but it made me feel better. I’m pretty happy with them.

>EDIT:
>
>I can understand the use of referral links and lots of people say they don't care. Nor do I honestly, except he wasn't contributing to this subreddit. He posted the exact setup 9 months (and 8 months) ago, this means he's here for the sole purpose to gain profit.
>
>Sure, he spent a lot of money, it's not disruptive, it's victimless, it doesn't hurt anyone and it's not a big deal. But it seems as if he's only here to earn money, he didn't even show a walkthrough of the computer build, he isn't a regular, he doesn't contribute to discussion. He posted multiple times like I've already mentioned and nothing has changed in all those posts.
>
>He's not here to show people his setup, he didn't even build anything. He's here to profit off us. Multiple posts of the same setup with all the affiliate links in every post, including links to something like a phone...
>
>Also, the problem is links like this act as infections. For approximately 24 hours (I think) after you've clicked a referral link, he will get a portion of the sale on anything you buy, so if you click a link to see the price of the something or investigate, he will earn money off everything you purchase in the next 24 hours off Amazon.
>
>_
>
>So earlier today I came across this post.
>
>I thought it was a bit suspicious how he documented absolutely every part of this "build" even though it isn't a build, it's a battlestation.
>
>He has since removed all information from his Reddit post, presumably after I commented about the Amazon links found in the post.
>
>It didn't look right because he provided links to every single item in this setup. All Amazon affiliate links, for him to make money off us.
>
>Not so bad though, right? Well, his Reddit username is "BlackWhite01", his Imgur username is "blackandwhitebattlestation", and he's been posting this absolutely identical set up on both Imgur and Reddit multiple times for a year.
>
>He did not intend to show off his battlestation, or even his computer build, he intended to come here and make money off of /r/battlestation and /r/buildapc mainly, but he's posted to a lot of other subreddits as well - presumably to pay off this setup and the ridiculous chair ($1,500).
>
>What really pisses me off is that he's also included affiliate links to stupid products like his phone. His phone?! It's fucking /r/buildapc.
>
>Alright, so there's a run down of all his Imgur and Reddit post history.
>
>Please do not click on any of the Amazon links, I've posted all items without any affiliations below.
>
>--
>Imgur
>--
>
> Submitted Imgur albums!
>
> Imgur Album 1.
>
> Imgur Album 2
>
> Imgur Album 3
>
> Imgur Album 4
>
> Imgur Album 5
>
> Imgur Album 6
>
> Imgur Album 7
>
> Imgur Album 8
>
>--
>Reddit
>--
>
> /u/BlackWhite01 - archive link: /u/BlackWhite01
>
> Reddit Post 1
>
> Reddit Post 2
>
> Reddit Post 3
>
> Reddit Post 4
>
> Reddit Post 5
>
> Reddit Post 6
>
> Reddit Post 7
>
> Reddit Post 8
>
> Reddit Post 9
>
> Reddit Post 10
>
>* Reddit Post 11
>
>_
>
>
>Below is a list of all the items found in the pictures. These links are NOT affiliate, I spent an enormous amount of time to provide you with the unaffiliated links.
>
>This subreddit and others shouldn't be focused on making money, it should be the exact opposite, just sharing our hobbies, enthusiasm, skills and to have open discussions without the aim being to profit.
>
>Screw this guy for trying to profit.
>
>Items
>--
>
>PC Specs:
>
>Type | Name | Link
>----|----|----
>Processor | Intel i7-4790k | Link
>Memory | Corsair Dominator Platinum 16GB | Link
>Storage | Samsung 850 Pro 256GB | Link
>Motherboard | ASUS ATX DDR3 1600 LGA 1150 | Link
>CPU Cooler | Corsair Hydro Series | Link
>Video Card | ASUS GTX 980 STRIX 4GB | Link
>Case | NZXT H440 | Link
>PSU | Corsair RM750 | Link
>PSU Sleeved Cables | Corsair Power Cable Kit | Link
>
>Fans:
>
>Type | Name | Link
>---|---|----
>Front Intake | Noctua NF-F12 | Link
>CPU Cooler | Corsair SP120 | Link
>Rear Exhaust | Corsair AF140| Link
>
>Lights:
>
>Name | Link
>---|---|----
>RGB Lights | Link
>White Lights | Link
>
>Accessories:
>
>Type | Name | Link
>---|---|----
>Monitors | Dell UltraSharp 23.8" | Link
>Mounts | VideoSecu Articulating Arm | Link
>Mouse | Logitech Wireless Performance Mouse | Link
>Mousepad | Zalman Accessory AMP1000 | Link
>Keyboard | Rapoo Black KX 5.8GHz | Link
>Phone | Motorola Moto X 16GB | Link
>Phone Stand | Cooler Master JAS | Link
>Speakers | Harman Kardon SoundSticks | Link
>Webcam | Logitech HD Pro Webcam | Link
>Headphones | Samsung LEVEL | Link
>Headphone Holder | Ikea Bjärnum Folding Hook | Link
>Strip for Holder | Command Mounting Refill Strips | Link
>White Videocard Backplate | Performix 11207 Plasti-Dip | Link
>RAM Light Bar | Corsair Dominator Platinum LightBar Kit | Link
>
>Other:
>
>
>
>Type | Name | Link
>---|---|----
>Desk | Euro Style Donald Desk | Link
>Chair | Embody Chair by Herman Miller | Link
>Clock | Modern Clocks | Link
>Lights | Philips 259982 | Link
>Wire Cover | Omnimount CMK | Link
>
>Triple Monitor Wallpapers
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>

Please note the information below this is 6 months old, links might not work, and im to sleepy to look them up.

I used some bracket pole mounts which are linked below to mount to the chair arm then used industrial strength velcro to attach the HOTAS to the mount for easy removal. It aligns perfectly with the placement ingame and adds serious immersion in VR it gives the sense that my arms are the arms in game.

http://www.amazon.com/Bracket-Pole-Mount-VESA75-100/dp/B00BCRRUQ2?ie=UTF8&refRID=D7VW10738YX5TNRNVTCP&ref_=pd_rhf_sc_p_img_5

edit: looks like amazon is out of stock, there are alot of places that sell them that you can find with a quick google search of "Bracket Pole Mount VESA75/100" here it is on sears.com

http://www.sears.com/pro-signal-bracket-pole-mount-vesa75-100-tvs-electronics/p-SPM8624574602?hlSellerId=9150&sid=IDx20110310x00001i&kpid=SPM8624574602&kispla=SPM8624574602&gclid=CjwKEAjwqdi7BRCL6Zmjk5-rsTwSJABmrVabHAF_9iF_aoiVS9Ig281szDxKkFetj2CP_ojDBhA0kxoCQ27w_wcB

Here's my setup I think it would like quite similar to what you want. I have a LG29UM68 and a LG23MP68VQ mounted on a 1home Double Twin Arm Desk Mount and it fit perfectly, no need for any DIY. I love it, just my only issue is the monitors at different height which I can't fix. But overall I highly recommend this type of setup

Haha, sorry don't mean to rush you whenever is fine. I really wanted to get this up today, but now that it's today I've kind of gotten over the "NEED TO DO IT NOW".

Yes from what it sounds like they have layered it. I actually drilled a tiny tiny hole in the bottom corner of the room, and well more than an inch of the bolt was in before i got through the drywall.


I also picked up this studfinder which isn't working really well, I wonder if the layered drywalls have anything to do with it being detected. But you're right, they do not seem to be 16" apart...one gap seems to be 18-20" and the other is 24-26". I'll pick up the magnetic finder and return this one.

Here's a link to the mount.


There's so much guesswork it makes me kind of uneasy, but having guidance so far has been awesome. I really appreciate it.

I actually went with a surface mount. It's a bit more expensive than a wall mount solution but it allows you to route cables easily behind the mount column and you can put the TV up high enough to fit a center channel right under it. I absolutely love mine.

I'm a value for money guy. I got this one for my mount in my living room for a 55" samsung tv. I use the arms to watch my TV at more than 2 feet away from the wall. It's pretty awesome. I can't say I have any issues with it.

I did install 2 2x4s on the wall against the studs first though to make sure it's completely safe.

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B001LL5JDA/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Sorry, forgot about the monitor audios, that's a great choice. You could always try micca mb42x or fluance bipoles for the side surrounds, both have good sound for the money. If you decide you need to wall mount them later, the miccas will fit in a stand like this and the fluances should be easy to wall mount directly.

Mount-It! Speaker Wall Mounts,... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MZE0O8U?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

I would add some more plants as an easy way to add color. A fig tree beside your TV would look great.


Fiddle Leaf Fig - 5' Tall Tree - Beautiful! - Ficus Lyrata - Florist Quality https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GPX56B5/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_.VcACbSTWYVVR

I would also suggest mounting those speakers either on the wall or on a speaker mounting pole.

Mount-It! Speaker Wall Mounts, Pair of Universal Side Clamping Bookshelf Speaker Mounting Brackets, Large or Small Speakers, 2 Mounts, 55 Lbs Capacity, Black (MI-SB37) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MZE0O8U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_5XcACbMEQ6KD3

Pa Speaker Stands Pair Pro Adjustable Height with 50 Cable Ties Kit To Secure Cable to stand (2 Stands) 6ft Tripod Speaker stands by Starument https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01NBMOVYS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_FYcACbMVSAZQQ

Mounting Dream brand, available on Amazon. They are amazingly well built and they include so many things to make installation super easy.

Just put my third one up yesterday, can't see any reason to ever buy a different brand.


Mounting Dream TV Wall Mounts TV Bracket for Most 32-55 Inch Flat Screen TV/ Mount Bracket, Full Motion TV Wall Mount with Swivel Articulating Dual Arms, Max VESA 400x400mm, 99 LBS Loading MD2380 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00SFSU53G/


Mounting Dream TV Wall Mount Bracket for 42-70 inch Flat Screens, Full Motion TV Mount with Swivel Articulating Arms, Max VESA 600x400mm and 100 LBS, Fits 16'', 18'', 24'' Wood Studs MD2296-24 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XZ6HZV6/

I have two TV's with lightpacks on them. One one this style of mount, and one on this style. The fixed mount is way too close to the wall. I would definitely recommend the other one to get it further away so that the light defuses better. All of the adjustments that there are on it have the ability to tighten, and they don't move from position without actually intentionally readjusting them. Whatever you choose, don't get one of these ones with the single swing arm. I have one of those as well, and they do not stay in position very well at all.

Thanks man. I need to do that still. I can say it was pretty basic. Though have not seen similar, usually people who use the VESA arms make it so they go up and down, not swing out and in like I found was really useful. The only outside involvement was the welding, not a welder myself, so had a guy at my local muffler shop weld the pipe pieces to the chairs arm mounting plates after I unbolted them from it. The pics do show that. Then it was just using the items listed below with a little customization, such as cutting the mounting plate on the long VESA arm to match the Warthog jstick circular base..etc. But here are the parts I used, along with a few pieces of pipe as seen in the pics and some paint and a couple USB hubs mounted underneath chair as well. The MFD mounting adapters I designed and 3D printed

Jstick arm used:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00OPC4BH2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This is attached to the vertical pipe attached to the chair arm base plate.

Throttle arm used:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00PZDB2HM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This is attached to the horizontal pipe piece on the chair arm base plate.

MFD articulated arms:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HCQDKCK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

These are attached to the chair arm base plate via one of the original mounting holes for the chairs arms, which I do not use(never like arms on my chairs)

Looking good! Which wall mount did you use?

For cable management, you might consider one of these:

PowerBridge ONE-CK https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GWGZKF6

I also wall mounted a B7 and was tearing my hair out trying to figure out how to hide the power cable without violating code. The PowerBridge kit makes it super easy to run power through the wall safely. Then you just run the low voltage stuff alongside it through the same holes in the drywall.

It does require you to cut some pretty big holes in the wall though. The boxes are standard wall plate size.

I do not know if this is what you are looking for but I bought these for my Fluance Loudspeakers. I needed them to be able to mount on the wall since my floor space is limited... I have not put them up yet... I am doing that today. Hoping all goes well but the directions are pretty straight forward.

Go to the monitors page on the acer website and search for vesa mount on the specifications (yours is 100x100mm), the most common are 75x75mm and 100x100mm. btw "Vesa" are those holes in the back of your monitor, sometimes is where the stand screws are.

After knowing that its just a matter of searching for a mount with that size.

There are 2 types of wallmounts

This that can be moved closer to you if needed (I like this type as I have USB ports on my monitor and it helps to remove or insert them again, and you have a lot more freedom with this type)

And this that stays flush against the wall and you cant really move it (dont really recommend this type tbh)

Have you though about monitor arms tho? I just prefer them over wall mounts, no need to drill the wall and you still save a lot of space on your desk.

Not for table but for an office chair these things are awesome and there is a whole DIY fixed posting over at /r/hotas about these.

http://www.amazon.com/Bracket-Pole-Mount-VESA75-100/dp/B00PZDB2HM/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1425649423&sr=1-1&keywords=Bracket+Pole+Mount+VESA75%2F100

I have a set and wow what a difference it has made being able to lean back into my chair and fly. You can use zip ties and run your hotas wiring underneath your chair, etc... But sheeeeesh these have doubled in price since people started using them for Hotas mounts.

Actually was in the service :) Pretty much nailed it : top is for chat/browsing/misc .Bottom is the business , gaming . Because of the limitations of space and a few other crappy elements . I went this route -->

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000VKCIJU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Videosecure LCD tv wall mount weighted upto like 60+ pounds I believe. Works for me pretty well actually , surprisingly.

Most of my small upgrades are already mentioned here, but I'll add one more: wall mounting your flat-screen TVs. The difference in how a properly wall-mounted TV with all the cables hidden looks vs. one just sitting on a shelf is incredible. We originally did it for safety reasons (having a toddler in the house) but I eventually ended up wall-mounting every TV in the house because it looked so good.

• $24 tilting universal wall mounting bracket supporting TVs up to 65"
  
• Code compliant way to run cables through the wall for $49
  
  It only takes about an hour to do and can be done with like 5 tools. All you need is a screwdriver, wrench, level (the bracket even includes a small level), jab saw and stud finder. Though a power screwdriver and cable fishing line will make things a bit faster.

I just hung three TV’s last week. A 60 in and two 50’s. I used the following mount for each:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00SFSU53G?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

I’ll buy more as they are super duty and easy to install.

Good luck

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003O1UYHG/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Here is what I use to mount my PG348Q. Properly mounted onto studs. Cheap and haven't had any issues. I "monitor" it now and then to make sure the weight hasn't caused it to shift down but it's been great so far. I've had it for 2 months. I do keep it pretty close to the wall though.

Will post pictures later.

For everything in part 1, I found it all at my local Home Depot. Shipping that kind of heavy stuff would be pretty expensive. For everything I ordered online, I try to always include an Amazon link.

For clamp-type systems, try searching for 'vesa pole mount'. Something like this is what people tend to use when they go the clamp route.

Good luck!

IT's not what I would have purchased for the money, (especially the subwoofer but you'd need two monsters to pressurize THAT room anyway, 20' foot ceilings shiiiiit) but I'm sure you'll love it.

Skipping the reference series was the right choice, in any case. The current Reference line-up of Klipsch is hot trash that's sold at every department store in existence.

As for your mounting problem, 2 pairs of these VideoSecu Clamp mounts will take care of that issue easily for you.

Speaker stands These stands have been great so far, if you use drywall plastic anchors they don't need to be drilled to studs. This is the way i have it and its very sturdy. super easy to assemble and mount with a lot of control over angles and positioning

I don't know of any stands that will even support 2 ultrawides like that. I'm a big "throw it on the wall because it's cheap and super sturdy and saves a lot of desk space" kind of guy lol. If it becomes an option I highly recommend these: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003O1UYHG?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

Is the drywall flush with the insofast or are there studs in between? if it is flush you need concrete screws and any typical mount. i had a similar situation i think; im not sure what insofast is, but it doesnt really matter cause what you are actually mounting into is the concrete. my situation is mounting 65" into brick underneath plaster. you just need to make sure that you get concrete screws that are long enough to give you the correct amount of engagement into the concrete (see the back of the box of screws) since it sounds like there is probably at least an inch of drywall+insofast before you geto the concrete. you may also need to rent or buy an impact drill and buy a masonry bit for an impact drill. i used a rotary drill and bit, but brick is different than concrete. I dont have experience with concrete impart.

here are the products i used:
http://www.tapcon.com/products/concrete-screw-anchors/heavy-duty-tapcon

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001LL5JDA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
as im sure you have read, dont worry about the size of TV listed for the mount. what matters is that the mounting pattern on your TV match the mount and the weight of your TV being within the capacity of the mount.

The main monitor is an HP 24wd, secondary on top is a Dell SP2309W, and the third in portrait is an Asus MW221. They're all old and I wish they were IPS, but they do the job good enough.

The mount for the secondary monitor is this one and the mount for the portrait monitor is this one. They're pretty damn good in terms of sturdiness and reliability.

Based on the look, I'm 99% sure they are these.
From my personal experience with the arms (as standard monitor arms for a DIY standing desk, not as a HOTAS setup), they are fairly sturdy provided you tighten the arms up before use. I imagine as long as you're not pushing down or pulling up very hard on the HOTAS, they'd be pretty useful. I think it would also be fairly easy to build a "lock-in" peg or something similar to secure them to the chair arms.

Super easy to do it in this configuration. these are VESA mounts that I used they rotate and tilt. This will work perfectly for you.

It would be a little bit cheaper to do it your way. But like everyone is saying, just do it right and do it to code.

I used this Power Bridge kit, which you can also get from Home Depot.

Works great, looks great, sleep at night.

I used these when mounting to the ceiling, it was super easy to install. projectorcentral.com will help you with how far away to have the projector depending on the size of screen you want. It generally falls into a range and then you can use the zoom on the projector lens to adjust how you want.

projector mount

ceiling mount

adjustable column to set the height of the projector

2"x10" into at least two studs with two bolts at each attachment point, four studs would be better (window frame and 16" out). Get an Articulating Full Motion TV Wall Mount Bracket for maximum support and flexibility in viewing options. What I did with my Vizio 70" P series and my mom's Vizio 65" M series. You'll probably want some blackout curtains for that window as well.

Hey, thanks. Those actually look pretty great. Is this the type of clamp mount you're talking about? I think I might be able to make that work...

I used this mount from amazon

Edit: if anyone is interested in getting this mount, be warned... The swivel joint for pivoting left and right was and still is super tight even after forcing it side to side with all my strength. But hey, it was cheap.

[]https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001LL5JDA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_6okoybKRH2ZZ0
Works with up to 70" televisions and will allow for 24 inches of extension. VideoSecu is a well respected brand, and if you view the customer images you can see a few instances of it being used as a corner mount. Seems like a good possibility to consider.

Specs

Case: Thermaltake Core P90 Tempered Glass Edition

Motherboard: ASUS ROG Maximus X Formula

CPU: Intel Core i7-8700K

GPU: (x2) Nvidia GeForce GTX 1080 Ti FTW3 (SLI)

RAM: Corsair Vengeance RGB Pro 32GB (4 x 8GB)

HDD: (x2) WD Blue 4TB (RAID 1)

SSD: Samsung 970 EVO M.2 1TB

PSU: EVGA SuperNOVA 1000 P2

Water Reservoir: Thermaltake Pacific 300ml Reservoir

Water Pump: PrimoChill Enhanced D5 Pump

CPU Waterblock: EKWB EK-Velocity RGB

GPU Waterblock: (x2) EKWB EK-FC1080 GTX Ti FTW3 RGB

Radiators: (x4) EK CoolStream XE 120

Fans: (x4) Corsair LL120 RGB Fan

Tubing: Thermaltake Pacific 16mm x 12mm Hard Tubing

Fittings: Bitspower 1/4" Multi-Link, XSPC 1/4" Ball Valves, Thermaltake Pacific 45/90 Adapter Fittings, Kyerivs 90s, EKWB 45s

Desk: IKEA Karlby Walnut 74" (Primary Desk) & 98" cut to 44" (Secondary Desk).

Drawers: (x2) IKEA Alex Gray Drawer Unit

Desk Legs: Etsy SteelImpression 14 ga. Squared Steel Tubes w/ Plastic Bottom Caps (Custom Order: 27 3/4" Tall & 25" Wide) Flat Black Finish

Monitors: (x3) LG 34UC80-B

Speakers: Kanto YU6 Matte Grey

Subwoofer: Kanto SUB8 Matter Grey

Keyboard: Corsair K)95 RGB Platinum

Mouse: Corsair Dark Core RGB SE

Mouse Pad: Corsair MM300 Anti-Fray Extended Mouse Pad

NAS: QNAP TS-451+ 8GB w/(x2) WD Red 8TB (RAID1)

Monitor Mounts: VideoSecure Monitor Mounts

Speaker Mounts: VideoSecure Speaker Mounts

Monitor Power Brick Mounts:(x4)(one for my surge protector mounted behind monitors) HIDEit Power BrickMount

In-Wall Cable Kit: Commercial Electric In-Wall Power Cord & Cable Kit

Ambient Lighting: (x3) Luminoodle Professional Bias Lighting - Large

Thanks man, the stand is just a basic speaker stand that I put together. It's a Sanus WSS2-B1 model that I bought from Bestbuy for about $100. The clamp on the stand was bought from Amazon (Bracket Pole Mount VESA75/100) about $80-$90 for a pair http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00PZDB2HM?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00

The silver platform is 2 pieces of plywood painted and drilled onto the brackets then tapped for extra security. And the Hotas is a Saitek X52 for $150. Here's a link on another post where I listed my entire setup if you want to see it all https://www.reddit.com/r/oculus/comments/4a9be9/post_pictures_of_your_vr_computer/. There's a lot of good setup there that others have posted as well.

https://www.amazon.com/VideoSecu-MW380B2-Motion-Articulating-Bracket/dp/B001LL5JDA

I really wish I could have found a 3 stud mount though. The wall plate is mounted off to the side, which is kinda awkward but I guess you can't really see it.

I just mounted the TV recently and haven't used it much. But it's mostly intended for duplicating my center display for viewing from farther back. Also for things like playing Skyrim with my lil sis, I'll just move back some distance :)

I have both my servers. An r810 and a r320 vertically mounted on their own vertical wall mount racks. Just make sure you hit the studs and you'll have no problems. If it's in the budget and you have space in your patch panel, think about installing at least five Ethernet drops just below or just beside the server. Makes for nice cable management. Shouldn't cost too much. I get most of my gear off Amazon in that regard.
https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-Mount-Patch-Panel-Bracket/dp/B001YHYVEY/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=wall+mount+vertical+server+rack&qid=1570787721&sprefix=wall+mounted+vertical+ser&sr=8-3

https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Listed-10-Pack-Keystone/dp/B00IO3HEN6/ref=mp_s_a_1_13?keywords=keystone+jack&qid=1570787805&sprefix=keyst&sr=8-13

https://www.amazon.com/Thomas-Betts-SC100RR-Carlon-Voltage/dp/B000W09PQI/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=low+voltage+box&qid=1570787902&sprefix=low+voltage&sr=8-3

https://www.amazon.com/Mediabridge-Keystone-Plate-6-Port-White/dp/B072BC45GZ/ref=mp_s_a_1_12?keywords=keystone+wall+plate&qid=1570787950&sprefix=keystone&sr=8-12

https://www.amazon.com/Choseal-Ethernet-ethernet-Computer-Shielded/dp/B07QC4XM2P/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?keywords=cat7+ethernet+cable+500ft+shielded&qid=1570788039&sprefix=cat7+ethernet+cable+500ft&sr=8-5#

I found and bought my cat7 cable from another location. Came on a spool. And was riser cable, meaning it had a braided shield around the foil shield like you see in coax cable. Good luck

It’s this one. I actually had one that could come out from the wall, but I replaced it with this one. It’s much closer to the wall and just looks cleaner in my opinion. It still has a pretty good swivel range of motion none-the-less.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00PZDB2HM?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00

Those are the ones I got, The mount around the arm-supports of my chair, and I use one of the hinges to make the bracket parallel to the floor. (Those hinges are what I loosen to spin the stick and falcon out of the way when not in use)

They also have some with more hinges/gimbals if you need to get more rotation/length out of the mount.

EDIT: I should say, it took a bit of drilling to put screw-holes in the right places on the X-65f mount-plate. And the Falcon is attached a bit more... sketchy. It's a heavy bastard and took a bit of futzing to work, but that's also the reason I still have that big wide "foot" still on it too, best mounting support without damaging the Falcon's body.

just to add... earlier today i bought a thrustmaster t150 wheel from amazon UK(i live in the US). this came out to about 160$ US shipped, and was the best deal ive found on a new wheel. Amazon charges 200$ for it on the US site.

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Thrustmaster-Ferrari-Force-Feedback-Wheel-y/dp/B015CNQW24/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1459207382&sr=8-2&keywords=thrustmaster+t150

and to go with the hotas setup... an easy mounting solution here

http://www.amazon.com/Bracket-Pole-Mount-VESA75-100/dp/B00BCRRUQ2/ref=pd_sim_23_4?ie=UTF8&dpID=31KzeFP2V2L&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=15ZFRJEP4RWMXFWB8FWJ

Thanks!

Here is the clamp from Amazon, pretty easy to set up too.

It's just a regular office chair I got from amazon with some swivel mounts clamped around the front of the arm rest. I used 2 of these:

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PZDB2HM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_ql5jybTYXK9XM

Sorry for the link gore, I'm on mobile and can't remember the proper link format. I used industrial strength velcro to attach the throttle and stick to the mounts, and ran the connecting cable back behind the chair. The mounts are great, I can easily leave the HOTAS mounted and swivel it out of the way when I'm not using it.

DO NOT BUY. I bought some of these about a year ago. Here is what happened when I screwed them into the wall too tight:

http://i.imgur.com/fZ59pN8.jpg

ULTRA cheap piece of junk. The backing split in half when I tightend the screws down. And the screws were super cheap as well and stripped easily (see the pic for that too).

Oh yeah and these are definitely NOT $100 retail. I bought mine for $14 each on Amazon about a year ago.

I bought this one to replace:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003O1UYHG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Only $13 and MUCH better.

You Could put some front ported or sealed Bookshelf speakers on shelves- Not the Best placement but could work.

You could put them on speaker brackets mounted to the side walls............

https://www.amazon.com/Mount-Universal-Clamping-Bookshelf-Mounting/dp/B01MZE0O8U

Ideal Placement is 1-2' from any walls (to back and sides) on Stands so Tweeter is Ear Level sitting but Ideal doesn't Always Work out...........

It's pretty easy if you have drywall. Located a stud, make a hole with a drywall saw roughly the size of an electrical box at the height you need and on the same height as other outlets lower on the wall/where you need it. Then fish the wires down the wall, sometimes you'll need a rod to fish them if you have insulation, etc.

Luckily, I had an electrical outlet installed at TV height. So the only wires I have running in the wall are 3x HDMI, 1x Optical, 1x Ethernet. If you need power, there's several kits online like this that make short work of "adding" an outlet.

Full disclaimer too, I've mounted several TVs in this fashion. However, this time I had Geek Squad do it for me as it was only $100 and I didn't feel like struggling with a 75lb tv that was a pretty penny.

Here's my input along with links to products.

1. Put the bed on risers to add storage space.
   
2. Make a headboard for your bed. If you're handy, this can be done cheaply. If you're not handy, you can buy one for a reasonable price.
   
3. Can the dresser and the desk be swapped? If so, put the desk next to the bed so that you don't wake up to a wall to your right and so you can look out the window while working at your desk. The desk can also serve as a bedside table.
   
4. Mount the monitors on the wall to free up desk space. Here are a couple options - two singles and a double.
   
5. Re-do the shelves. They have a very garage feel. Some cheap board from the hardware store to even out the sides would make a real difference.
   
6. Put at least a picture above the bed on the side that's to your left while sleeping. It should be longer than it is tall. Scenery is good. I have this in my bedroom and I like the effect.
   
7. Mount the guitar on the wall.

The closest 1:1 replacement for the HTC Wall mounts

I bought and used. Look at the reviews and you will see how popular a choice it is. Can confirm it is perfect. I use these AND the HTC mounts in different rooms. Works exactly the same. I'm impressed.

Vertical Monitor: Acer XB270HU (One of the best monitors for 2560x1440p gaming) with mount

Main Monitor: Dell Alienware AW3418DW with mount

TV: Vizio E40-C2 with mount

Desk: Ikea Karlby 74" with Black Alex Drawers

PC:

EVGA GTX 1080 FTW DT

i7 6700K @ 4.4 GHz

2x8GB RIPJAWS V Ram

ASUS Z170A MOBO

Corsair LL120 Fans

NZXT S340 Case

​

If you want to know more specs lemme know!

I bought a TV wall mount for my d120 light. It's awesome, I can position it just how I want and also swing it out of the way for cleaning. I used zipties to attach it to the mount. For $12 it's awesome. http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003O1UYHG/ref=s9_top_hm_b3Buu_g23_i6?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=mobile-hybrid-12&pf_rd_r=1NFR22SPVH1XK4BCWN1X&pf_rd_t=30901&pf_rd_p=f27bd3bb-cb5f-5e14-938b-8dadceb1deab&pf_rd_i=760796

You can wall mount speakers without much issue. You need to decide if you want to put them directly on the wall (speakers with builtin wall mount) or use third party mounts. You could also do smaller mounts like these if you wanted something smaller. This will also depend a lot on the speaker size you select. Both of the mounts will get the speaker off the wall enough that you won't be loosing the benefit of the port. That being said a front port design would eliminate this too.

So the big question is what is your budget? What other gear do you already have?

This is a different wall mount, but it looks like it will fit and for $15....
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005BV0FHG/ref=psdc_297859_t1_B00OCGC7G8
Before you go that route, though, are you sure your retaining ring on the wall side of the mount didn't just loosen up?

Side note, holy balls this stand is gigantic! I need a wall mount stat! Any recommendations? I was eyeballing this one since it seems like it'd still have pretty good adjustments.

I personally have the krk 5” speakers and I’ve loved them for 5 years and still goin.


Whatever you get, I’d recommend getting some stands and pulling your entire set up away from the wall a little so you don’t have crazy bass reflections from the speakers being too close to the wall.


If that’s not an option I’d recommend getting speakers with forward bass ports and some wall mounts like


WALI Dual Side Clamping Bookshelf Speaker Wall Mounting Bracket for Large Surrounding Sound Speakers, Hold Up to 55 lbs. (SWM201), Black


https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GUITK24/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_6GWvCbS80D1K0


And get them ear level (or as close to as possible.)

Congrats on finding the matching Sony center, I'm sure you'll find a way to make the Miccas work as rears, would something like this work for your setup:

VideoSecu One Pair of Side Clamping Bookshelf Speaker Mounting Bracket with Swivel and Tilt for Large Surrounding Sound Speakers MS56B 3LH https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000X9O8SI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_DXAFzbMQCWVCB

It may be you can give the micca enough space on the bookshelf and they'll sound fine.

No problem! If you're on a budget, definitely grab the explorer at $99. Know that the Vives will have better tracking and having the motion controllers opens up a whole world of gaming options (just not for Elite). But if we're just talking Elite, the difference between flat screen and the Explorer is waaaaay bigger than the difference between the explorer and the Vive pro, especially when you consider cost.

If you're looking for more immersion after the explorer, I'd get a good hotas if you don't have one already (I have the x52 pro), a buttkicker for your chair, and for the icing on the cake, mount your hotas to your chair directly - you can feel the vibrations from the buttkicker in your hands through the hotas. Makes flying through the mail slot sooooo awesome. I'm using some cheap TV mounts and velcro to attach my hotas to my chair

Edit: the TV mounts I'm using https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BCRRUQ2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_EbLRBbH6ZV19E

Bro, it’s super easy! I’ve done it to multiple TVs!!!

PowerBridge TWO-CK Dual Outlet Recessed In-Wall Cable Management System with PowerConnect for Wall-Mounted Flat Screen LED, LCD, and Plasma TV’s https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GWGZGQ4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_kiqSCb6CTW96B

Yeah I was in the same boat. Then just happened to see someone mention something related to that and I looked it up and lo and behold. I just dont want something to happen to you and your family and then your insurance may find out what caused the fire and then you are SOL.

I ended up using this power bridge:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HIYAFR4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_NFlZAb22TAVB6




In hindsight I would have just wired it all behind the wall. It does look a little silly plugging an extension type cord into a working outlet and plugging it into the power bridge. But it is all code compliant and it was simple to wire and install. But this is usually only used for offset outlets like my old house. Your outlet looks to be perfectly placed so you should easily be able to piggyback off of that outlet.

Thanks, they are pretty nice for the price. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000X9O8SI/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

You could also use these or similar mounts, attach them to your seat and tilt them upwards. like this you get a nicely placed surface for your sticks (sts).

Kind of like this setup.

Thanks! Yeah, I did. I used this mount and this in-wall cable management system. I highly recommend both!

If you're interested, to mount the monitors I started with a 3/4" thick piece of pine that is like 7" wide and I cut it to length so there was no overlap from behind the monitors. I laid it out all flat on a level table and put the monitors on their mounts with the wall brackets attached. Then I got them into position and marked out the location of the mounts with a pencil once I made sure everything was level. Then I put the wall brackets onto the pine board, then secured the board to the wall with 8 really good sized drywall anchors and bolts. I just centered it up on the desk and drilled the holes wherever I wanted, and if I happened to hit a stud I didn't use the anchor in that hole.

Here are the mounts I used:

2x www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00H7XUOZY/ for the outer monitors

1x www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000VKCIJU for the center

Which brand monitors were you looking at?

Thanks for the reply! Just found this mount as well, would that work or is it bad to buy a random mount like that? It seems to have some great reviews.

I've never tried to wall mount anything before.
http://imgur.com/a/LQ84l
I want to mount legit studio monitors or bookshelves on my wall. No room on desk.
Is it as simple as....
1 - buy https://www.amazon.com/VideoSecu-Clamping-Bookshelf-Surrounding-MS56B/dp/B000X9O8SI It supports 33 lbs.
2 - use stud finder, find stud in wall.
3 - screw mounting things into studs, hope that the studs are actually kinda evenly spaced in a way that lets me put the studio monitors up in reasonable spots
4 - put speakers onto the mounting things that are now screwed into the wall
Should I ask someone for help, will I need power tools? If it's something that is straightforward it shouldn't be hard to figure out. But if it requires 3 sets of arms and power tools then I guess I need help.
All advice appreciated.

I had a similar but different issue and used this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GWGZGQ4/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Not sure if this would help, but figured I'd toss it out just in case.

Good Luck!

The speakers are on mounts that attach to the wall. I anchored them to studs in the wall, but that will limit placement in your space. You’d have to get lucky to hit the wall studs right where you have your setup.

I hope this link works.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000X9O8SI?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_image

I have a TV similar to this and a mount like this. It costs half as much as those fancy briefcases others have linked, but it has a couple of drawbacks.

• It won't fit in a lot of racks
  
• You have to stay in your rack to play
  
  Put some velcro tape, or other adhesive on the PS4 itself and you're good to go.

They are AMAZING. They adjust in every direction I need them to and have allowed me to perfectly align my monitors. They have also just dropped in price by three dollars. I have zero complaints about them. You will notice that there are two openings in the plate just behind the two arms that connect to it. I used the upper hole to bolt the reinforcement plate to the stock VESA mount on the left and right monitors as these mounts are a little too short to use both bolt holes on the arms. The top arm bolt was then attached to the reinforcement plate. You will also have to remove the plastic cap at the end of the upper arm as it will not fit with this bolt in place. I just added a new picture to the album so you can see what I am talking about.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003O1UYHG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Peerless-AV PRGS-UNV | Precision Projector Mount with Spider Universal Plate Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000TXNS6G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_wDoSDb07TNJHY

Been very happy with this one. A bit on the expensive side but nice fine tuning adjustment. I paired it with the 6-0” extension and ceiling joist mount.

So it was first time mounting anything, and I was very skeptical but it's pretty easy just find where u wanna put it and then find the closest stud then bolt it down VideoSecu LCD LED Monitor TV Wall... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000VKCIJU?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

If it turns out to be the case that you can't place the soundbar in front of the set without blocking the IR sensor, then you might want to consider a TV stand like this one.

I use it with my KS8000 and a rather tall center channel speaker - it looks great and keeps everything working as intended.

The BIC I ordered is actually a center, so I would need L/R's for it to replace the Monoprice. Someone on AVSForum.com recommended the Bic center + Sony Core for the L/R, saying it had a similar sound and was good for HT.

I think I have a TV stand figured out to raise the TV and speaker stands to get the speakers off the TV stand they are on now. Just need to pick out new speaker wire so they will reach the receiver. I went with cheap AmazonBasics 16 Gauge for the Monoprice. Is 16 gauge good enough for these speakers?

I bought these. They work great have multiple adaptors and are full metal so the chance of over tightening is pretty slim.

Just a VESA pole mount that I put velcro strips on. Would honestly prefer a solid desk mount, but that requires a non-glass desk, which I'm building, but isn't near completion yet. Here's a link to the mounts I use, bought them off of amazon:

https://www.amazon.com/Pro-Signal-Bracket-Mount-VESA75/dp/B00PZDB2HM/ref=sr_1_6?keywords=tv%2Bpole%2Bmount&qid=1568067880&s=gateway&sr=8-6&th=1

They've done me well for the past few years. Solid cheap mounting option IMO.

Haha those aren't streaming lights (would be a cool addition on the top of them). They are these speakers on top of these mounts.

I replaced the lighthouse wall mounts that came with the Vive with these:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005BV0FHG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Similar in design, but the ball clamps are much more secure and I haven't had the need to tighten and readjust the light houses since I switched to them.

The power outlet remote switches are a godsend. The light houses are quite noisy (even in standby) and they're mounted in my bedroom so I pretty much have to turn them on and off every day.

Can't resell until 3 years after purchase.

For this steep of a discount, money isn't an object, I want what's best as I'll keep this equipment for the next decade or more.

Sounds like the consensus is the 580's for the front and 162's for the rear. I plan on picking up these mounts for the rears WALI One Pair of Side Clamping Bookshelf Speaker Mounting Bracket with Tilt and Swivel for Large Surrounding Sound Speakers SWM201, Black.

I'm going to read up on the CMMD technology a bit. I can't find a ton of reading material on PolyPlas (what the JBL Studio 230 uses for it's woofer material).

Can anyone comment on the JBL Studio 230 vs the Infinity Reference 162?

This one is nice, very good, has cable management and that, youd need to check for sizes. but this one is very nicely made.

Thanks. It would be a full motion mount which can extend to 15.8 inches. I think the issue is that the main stud is right in the center of the wall where I would be centering the TV so I don't think an extender would work to connect to 2 studs.

This is the mount I am planning to get:
Mount

And then add 4x of these:
snaptoggle

I would put 2x bolts into the center of the middle stud and then add the 4 snaptoggles to the 4 corners.

Let me know what you think.

Thanks again!

Well, I'm definitely not an audio engineer, but here's how my desk is set up. Klipsch R-15PM (plus a Klipsch R-10SW under the desk that's not visible) mounted on some clamping wall mounts with a velcro strap added for peace of mind.

https://imgur.com/a/oCXw82u

Just a FYI - I bought this kit from amazon for my wall mounted tv so I wouldn’t have to worry about power and conduit etc. they have different sizes and specs so find the right one for you.

Super easy to install - can do it in under 30 min.

PowerBridge ONE-PRO-6 Single-Outlet Professional Grade Recessed In-Wall Cable Management System for Wall-Mounted Flat Screen LED, LCD, and Plasma TV’s https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HIYAFR4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_M3W.AbB124XEA

>I cannot do in-ceiling speakers so my only options are elevated speakers

Can you mount to the ceiling. I have these pointed down over the listening position and they work really well. Mounted with this

>What are my options for speakers?

Whatever you want. For the Center you probably want to match the Polk towers, the rest doesn't matter.

As far as the budget, you can easily do 5.1.4 for that price. Personally I wouldn't look at a package as those deals usually aren't that good.

I have the RP Klipsch line and bought all mine open box on Ebay from an authorized dealer and saved at least 30% off MSRP.

A sliding bracket solution that was the same color as the wall, provided the walls are a neutral color, could still provide you with the quick remounting in the exact location and shouldn't require recalibrating them every time in theory, since they should be in the exact same location.

But they're fairly inconspicuous by themselves honestly, I've seen people put a lot more noticeable surround speakers up, but I guess it's not for everyone. I might install a tiny shelf and stick something appealing up there when they weren't being used for the Lighthouses. A thin vase and a fake flower maybe if that would be less obtrusive in the room.Alternatively I'd build a larger shelf that could support books when the lighthouse wasn't there. I'm not aware of your sense of style though, so I can't really provide anything other than my thoughts on what I might do if I were in that situation.

Do you have leftover paint you could just paint the included mounting brackets the color of the wall and remove the Lighthouses when they weren't in use? The vive Pre owners apparently got these AFAIK: http://www.amazon.com/VideoSecu-Universal-Satellite-Speaker-Bracket/dp/B005BV0FHG/ but it will be a few weeks before we know what we're getting for certain.

Sorry if none of that is useful for you, my sense of decorating style is clutter as a living performance art installation.

I love it because how slim it is and easy to take on/off - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000VKCIJU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

If you only need up to 65" the cheetah mounts are a great deal: https://smile.amazon.com/Cheetah-APDAM3B-Articulating-Bracket-Magnetic/dp/B002MYQTEI/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1504197013&sr=1-1&keywords=full+motion+cheetah+mount

They make a smaller one too for smaller tvs I've had luck with. Obviously there are also cheaper options if it's an install that doesn't require an articulating mount. A tilt mount is often what I use.

• Andrew Jones Pioneer Speakers 5.1
  
• 55" B7 OLED
  
• This TV Stand (highly recommended, helps with getting TV to eye level as well as having room for the speaker underneath)
  
• Hue Lights
  
  
  Eventually the wires will be cleaned up a bit more. Please don't give me advice on what to change.

When I built it I had in mind only two monitors, so I bought a cheap 2 monitors arm vesa mount from amazon. I can move them around a lot, and also tilt and spin them.The vertical monitor I've just installed it a few days ago. It was an old LG 19" LCD. Dismounted it, chopped its original leg with a dremell and put a vesa mout foot I had laying around my house to turn it 90º. Reading reddit on a vertical monitor is a pleasure.


~Edit
Link to the monitors arm: https://www.amazon.es/gp/product/B01MR397OH/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00PZDB2HM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Grab a set of these and some stick on velcro. Mounted mine to my chair for elite too, its great for leaning back and blowing up goids in my FAS.

Edit: just realized those are out of stock, grabbed them from my orders. Easy enough to find something similar.

Hell yeah closet desks!! One of my bedrooms has a closet with two sliding doors so I measured the width of my closet and used the door as my desktop. It's been perfect. I have 3 of these for my monitors and they've held up pretty good over the last few years.

Hi. What features are you looking for? Portrait or landscape orientation? Do you want easy docking/undocking, charging, and the ability to connect several peripheral devices? If so this open-source VESA mount might be a good option. Just get a generic $11 VESA wallmount to pair with it or one of the longer gas-charged arm designs.

If you don't need easy docking/undocking and charging, you can use a generic tablet mount suitable for a larger ipad and similar devices. My customers tend not to go for those since they often don't fit Surface exactly right.

You could wall mount the monitor underneath the shelf. Save some space on your desk to better position your keyboard and laptop.

I use this on my secondary monitor and it works fine

Most may remember my previous "RGB puke" battle station. Recently I've made some updates and wanted to see what you guys think. Below are the specs. Temperatures are sitting at 36C CPU and 35C GPU while idling. Playing Destiny 2 at Highest, temperatures go to about 40C for both CPU and GPU. Watercooling does work :D!

More Pictures Here: https://imgur.com/a/VsSngY0

System:

Case: Lian Li O11 Dynamic White

MOBO: Asus Prime Z370-A

Processor: Intel i7 8700K

GPU: EVGA GTX 1080

RAM: GeIL SUPER LUCE RGB SYNC 4x 8GB (Total 32GB)

Storage: 1x ADATA XPG 480GB M.2, 1x WD Black 256GB M.2 1x WD Blue 2TB HDD

Water Cooling: Barrow 14mm fittings, Barrow Intel CPU Waterblock, EKWB FE GPU Waterblock, Barrow Reservoir, Barrow PWM Pump, 2x Bykski 350mm x 28mm Radiators, Bitpower Flowmeter.

Fans: 6x Phanteks PH-F120SP

WiFi/Bluetooth: iMac BCM94331CD Card (Hackintosh Compatibility)

RGB: NZXT Hue+ with LED Channels to reflect the light, Phanteks Halos RGB (For all the fans), Lian Li 24 Pin RGB Cable

Monitors:

2x LG 34WK650‑W

2x LG MP88HV‑S

Peripherals:

Keyboard: Corsair K70 Lux RGB

Mouse: Logitech MX Master 2S

Headset: Astro A50 Wireless

Controller: Xbox One S (Gray and Green)

Extras:

Addressable RGB with Arduino Controller on monitors and behind the desk.

V1Tech GPU Backplate

KAWS Dissected Figurine

3D Printed Cars

Divoom Mini Clock/Speaker

harman/kardon Aura Speaker

Quirky Spacebar USB 3.0 Stand

Desk: https://m.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/spr/99932696/

Edit: Screensaver link: https://m.imgur.com/cCUc7bc
Monitor arms: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003O1UYHG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_1-H-BbV3DVKXT (something like this but the ones I have are out of stock. Mine have 4 screw holes for the wall side)

Anyone know if this monitor would fit this mount?

Just bought 2 of these monitors, so thanks for sharing the deal! I'm so excited for my first dual monitor setup!!

So I had a pre-installed system at my new house. I didn't want to use the guys speakers so I removed them all and started to mount my Onkyo ones. They're keyhole mounting brackets on the surrounds and rears so I had to remove the mounting bracket (2 screws) and then attach the mount screw through with the nut, and re-mount on the speaker. Now I can adjust the swivel on the ball joint to angle inwards once the allen wrench set arrives tonight. Would have been a lot easier if the speakers had the 3/4" screw input so you could just attach.

Something like this would work, but you have to figure out how to mount the speaker to the mount. Usually requires finding a thinner nut that will fit behind the mounting bracket. The ones I had JUST fit, but it pushing into the speaker back a bit which I didn't care, it's press board so whatever.

Yes, I use two; a wall mount for my ultrawide and a clamp mount for my side monitor.

Wall monitor mount
Clamp monitor mount

If you don't want to wall mount, the clamp mount works great.

I just finished a second crash cart for my SO, and this time I kept track of the parts I used during assembly. So as a gift to the VR subreddits I tend to follow here's some assembly photos and a full parts list should you want to build your own.

Parts list:

(1x) HF / USG Rolling Toolcart $99 with coupon - https://www.harborfreight.com/26-in-4-drawer-580-lb-capacity-glossy-black-roller-cart-61634.html

(1x) Asus VP239H-P Monitor - https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=2W2-000Y-00007

(1x) VESA mount - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000VKCIJU/

(6x) Rubber Grommets (requires 1 1/2" bi-metal hole saw) - https://www.amazon.com/Heavy-Rubber-Grommets-Inside-Diameter/dp/B06XKJ4NRF/

(1x) PRIME Power Strip - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003DKJ2VC/

(1x) Best Buy - 9' VR Cable Extension - https://www.bestbuy.com/site/insignia-9-vr-extension-cable-black/5706844.p?skuId=5706844

Additional parts required:

(4x) 1/4" x 3/8" steel rivets (requires rivet gun) - https://www.amazon.com/Surebonder-FPC86S-100-4-inch-Medium-Rivets/dp/B001C2FW3A/

(2x) 1/4 x 20 Rivet Nut for attaching the power strip. (Requires nut setting tool) https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-Plated-Carbon-Nutsert-4-20UNC/dp/B00X74FNVW/

(2x) 1/4 x 20 x 3/4 button cap hex screws - https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-Inch-20x3-Socket-Button-Screws/dp/B015A3ABL4/

1 x 1 cable tie mounts for dressing the wiring inside the toolchest -
https://www.amazon.com/Darller-Adhesive-Cable-Mounts-Holders/dp/B071WW8P83/

4" cable ties, black -
https://www.amazon.com/C2G-Cables-43036-4-Inch-Cable/dp/B0002GX1XA/

And lots of blue loctite for all the fasteners during assembly.

Optional but makes life easy:

Logitech K830 wireless keyboard - https://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Illuminated-Living-Room-Keyboard-Touchpad/dp/B00ZOPVSKW/

The last 7 photos are from the first VR Crash Cart I built to help illustrate some of the assembly steps involved.

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B000X9O8SI/

Solid and pretty easy to install

Best bet would be to build your own using one of these chassis from SuperMicro

Or go with a fullsize server and use a vertical wall mount like this

One tip for hanging tvs that I always like is hiding the cords behind the wall. This is a link that shows that product. https://www.amazon.com/PowerBridge-Recessed-Management-PowerConnect-Wall-Mounted/dp/B00GWGZKF6

As for a storage device, maybe use like a cube organizer or a traditional media shelving unit to hold that stuff. Something with doors is always nice to hide clutter from games. You could potentially hang that too if you want. Don't know how it would fit in with the room, just depends on the rest of the house.

https://www.wayfair.com/furniture/pdp/modern-rustic-interiors-hayward-entertainment-center-for-tvs-up-to-60-w001957214.html

1. Don't run the power cable through the wall. It's against electrical code for a reason
   
2. Make sure you have in wall rated HDMI's... not as big of a deal but just think about it since they are supposed to be CL rated.
   
3. Look at a power bridge or something like:
   http://www.amazon.com/PowerBridge-Solutions-Management-PowerConnect-Wall-Mounted/dp/B00GWGZKF6/
   
   With the molding on the wall you may run into problems with the plastic cover on the outside of the wall.
   
   
   Make sure your HDMI cables are long enough. I prefer the outlet to be above the bracket so as you tilt the tv down it will clear the outlet.

That's exactly what I use in my cinema room (wall-mounted S10's), and I haven't had any issues. I used these mounts and essentially have them hanging off the keyhole on the back of the speakers. It doesn't sound super secure as described, but they're actually pretty stable.

You can also look into Polk's OMW speakers or other small bookshelf models.

These work:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005BV0FHG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I know this because I was not aware the Vive came with wall mounts so I ordered these when I ordered the Vive. They are the same size as the Vive ones and if anything, are actually better as the range of possible angles is superior.

Made my own VESA mount plates with some left over metal, mounted into wall studs.


Mounts for the MAudio BX8s: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GUITK24/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

TV is hooked up to PC / PS4 Pro / Xbox One X / Switch / Apple TV (What's currently being displayed)

Thanks man :)

1home Double Twin Arm Desk Mount Ergonomic TV LCD Monitor Computer Screen Bracket Dual Tilt Swivel Rotation 13"-27"
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01MR397OH/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_tQAEkXvbG2Nk3

I like it. It's good quality for the price. It's quite rigid though so moving the monitors is a trial and error process but apart from that it works really well. It has a desk clamp as well so I didn't have to drill any holes.

It's a 65" panel with no special requirements. It weighs 65 pounds and has a 400x200 VESA hole pattern.

Personally I like the articulating mounts like this one. The articulating bit makes it much easier to plug in stuff in the back. Just make sure you bolt it to couple of studs. Drywall anchors will probably fail.

These are the wall mounts I went with. They work perfectly fine. VideoSecu One Pair Black Univaersal Satellite Speaker Mount Bracket for Wall and Ceiling, fits Keyhole and thread hole with 1/4 20 threads, 4mm and 5m https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005BV0FHG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_lX9WP4qmWRWfd

You can place the speaker on the wall with product like that also. Would save you floor and desk space!

You can always get one of these:
(https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GWGZKF6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_qWAvDbKQ0A6N1)

this allows you to do a 'clean' install without installing a new electric box, you just cut the drywall however large the plate calls for, hang your TV where you like it, take the TV off the hanger and then install the other plate behind the TV, fishing through a wall is really easy, especially just over a couple of feet, and you can easily do all of this for 100$ or less yourself.

I have these mounts and they work great. I believe SVS had recommended them

Old image of the rears

I think the best solutions right now are:

HOTAS VESA Mount

https://www.reddit.com/r/hotas/comments/2v2pum/vesabracket_joystick_mount_to_ikea_markus_chair/

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G5xeDbYrp74

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00PZDB2HM/


HOTAS Ikea stand

https://www.reddit.com/r/EliteDangerous/comments/59l0m3/need_mount_ideas_for_a_thrustmaster_warthog_hotas/d99bm61/

http://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/40242177/

Thanks :) I used three individual wall mounts
Direct link here -> https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003O1UYHG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

They definitely will not fit on your desk well with dual monitors. I suggest speakers stands or wall mounting them with something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Mount-Universal-Clamping-Bookshelf-Mounting/dp/B01MZE0O8U/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1541308258&sr=8-1-spons&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=speaker+wall+mount&psc=1

This is the exact stand that I have. I have it at a fairly low height with my center channel on the shelf below the TV, but it's adjustable to where I could raise it and easily fit my center underneath if that was the direction I wanted to go.

EDIT: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IUUN6L2/

I'd actually recommend this one, that's cheaper than both. I've used a full-motion Cheetah mount on a heavy Panasonic Plasma, and it was rock solid. It was anchored in and totally secure.