(Part 2) Reddit mentions: The best household battery chargers

I have three flashes one is a

Rokinon D980AFZ-OP Digital TTL Power Zoom Flash for Olympus/Panasonic (Black)

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0029SC9PK/ref=pe_385040_30332190_TE_M3T1_ST1_dp_1

The only two things I do not like about this flash that it does not support high speed sync and if I'm taking a photo vertical I can not point the flash head behind me. I can but the shutter button will be below.


Bolt VS-510OP Wireless TTL Shoe Mount Flash for Olympus & Panasonic Cameras

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/750838-REG/Bolt_VS_510OP_Wireless_TTL_Shoe.html

I like the bolt flash it supports high speed sync you need to push in the two buttons to enable high speed sync. Also the head will turn back when taking vertical photos and you want to point the flash head back. The one thing I do not like about the this bolt is that it does not take external battery back. But those flashes that do go for a lot more money and those external battery backs can go for $150.00 to $300.00. That's something you might want to get for weddings or something.

For batteries I use Amazing rechargeable batteries

AmazonBasics AA NiMH Precharged Rechargeable Batteries (16-Pack) 2000 mAh

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007B9NV8Q/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Amazon does sell batteries that hold a longer charge but they cost a little more.

EBL® 808(Latest Version) 8 Bay/Slot AA AAA Ni-MH Ni-Cd Quick Charger Smart Battery Charger for Rechargeable Batteries

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EB7812C/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Dial AA Battery Storage Box

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003US4L4K/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

People say Sanyo Panasonic rechargeable batteries are the best. Panasonic bought Sanyo so Sanyo ones are hard to find. Panasonic is just relabeling everything Sanyo made with Panasonic now .


Panasonic eneloop pro AA Rechargeable Ni-MH Batteries (2550 mAh, Pack of 8)

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1047695-REG/panasonic_bk_3hcca8ba_eneloop_xx_aa_rechargeable.html

Watch this video about bouncing light.

Bouncing the light - how I get directional light from my hot shoe flash

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KzCHJMlt3Nw

This is the flash diffuser set I bought from Ebay.

Universal Cloud Lambency Flash Diffuser + Cover Set for Flash

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Universal-Cloud-Lambency-Flash-Diffuser-Cover-Set-for-Flash-/281114680556?pt=Camera_Flash_Accessories&hash=item4173bd9cec

The big white dome is great but its a little clumsy. The clear one I do not like so much I like the cloudy dome one the most. Also I like the

Flash Diffuser Universal For All Brand Canon Nikon Sony Olympus Pentax Flash

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Flash-Diffuser-Universal-For-All-Brand-Canon-Nikon-Sony-Olympus-Pentax-Flash-/261213073983?pt=Camera_Flash_Accessories&hash=item3cd183323f

You will get one of these little diffusers in first ebay link i gave you. But I like having these in my camera bag because is something happens I have a few back ups. Its almost as good as the big cloudy diffuser.

Also watch these two videos.

NEW VIDEO - A Better Bounce Card 3.0 Technology

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=99P0rv3XLec

A Better Bounce Card No-Flash-In-Eyes

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qkfRocWJFcM

When you put your diffuser on you turn the head so you can take vertical photos as well. You really won't need a flash bracket like in the old days. They are still good for bouncing the light off a wall if you are taking a vertical or something. But for the most part I do not think you will need one.

First off, sorry, I'm on mobile.

Well, to get you started, the first thing you need to know is Ohms law. This will basically tell you the safe limits you can push a battery to. I wouldn't recommend a mechanical mod myself BUT it's always good to know. I would recommend a regulated mod so that you're relatively safe, at least at the start.

Unfortunately, to power big builds, you probably want a mod that does over 100W, even for some tanks like the TFV8, that's not much. The Smok R200 is a good choice and I used one for months and it was always reliable. The Temperature Control isn't the best but it works.

For an RDA, you want something with a deck that's easy to build on so something like the Mutation X V5 has a two post deck which is the easiest to build on. The side and top airflow means unless you drip too much liquid inside.

Batteries like the Samsung 25R are solid favourites so if you want to make sure you always have power, get 4 of them.

To charge the batteries, you probably only need a 2 bay charger. You'll always have 2 in the mod. Nitecore are probably the most popular. The Nitecore D2 will show you all the information you need to know about where they are up to with their charge, voltage, whatever.

To start with, rather than buying a full kit to build coils, you could try pre made coils. I started out with these pre-made Claptons and then when I knew I liked dripping, I bought this coil building kit and some kanthal wire.

To wick, you'll need cotton and this Muji cotton is kind of standard. Enough there to last for a very long time.

There are plenty of tutorials for how to wick on YouTube and the best method is probably the Scottish Roll. It's a good technique which lasts for a while. It will take you a lot of practice to get it right but it pays off.

That's a lot of typing so if there's anything else, just ask.

Honestly I'm not sure that eneloops have changed that much. They went from claiming 1800 recharge cycles to 2100 or something, but really who's going to be able to tell that difference...

Now they offer these Eneloop XX or Eneloop Pro models, which best I can tell are the same thing with different marketing attached. Those have about 20% higher capacity (more life between charges), but only recharge 500 times (so an 80% reduction in lifetime). And they cost about 25% more. Its important to note that they're all the same voltage so your flashlight won't be brighter, it'll just last 20% longer between charges.

Personally I don't find the capacity of standard Eneloops to be too low for my usage. Just keep a fresh set charged and ready to swap in. And the 80% reduction in total product lifetime isn't worth the 20% increase in per-charge capacity, in my opinion. I'm still buying the normal Eneloops, which usually means the 2100-cycle batteries just cause they're newer and easier to find.

As for a charger, the Nitecore i4 McFarlie recommended is always a great choice. Its a really good charger for $20 - can't beat that. Personally I went for the Nitecore D4 because its got even more charging options and its only ten bucks more or so, but honestly I only use that for my li-ion batteries. I use eneloop AAs and AAAs in lots of things around my house - literally dozens and dozens of them - so I keep a Maha 8-position charger stocked with 4-AAs and 4-AAAs at all times. Its not nearly as flexible as my Nitecore D4 but I like the convenience of not having to worry about all those eneloops I've got floating around the house. Plus I can leave this one in a common area, the laundry room in my case, and my kids can do their own battery swapping without bothering me. Worth it to me, but not necessary. You can do everything you need to do with that i4 you've already been recommended.

Not much of that I'd recommend.

Lancer Tactical stuff is kinda crap. Just generally not worth it. No clue who makes good helmets though unless you go high end like Team Wendy. I'd just recommend a hat tbh.

One Tigris mask is fantastic.

A propane adapter will let you use dirt cheap propane cans instead of green gas to save money.

The Modi JPC is the best budget-friendly plate carrier I've used. Comes with foam plates and fits 3 5.56 mags.

WE G19 is better than the Elite Force.

I like the Condor Triple Stacker pouches. If you get the JPC, I'd recommend the BLe Force Ten Speed pouches to keep the front of your plate carrier nice and slick.

The Tenergy Smart Charger is good and cheap.

Lancer Tactical goggles are a huge no no. They completely lied about the safety ratings. Get something legit like ESS NVGs or Revision Desert Locusts (Cheap on Ebay as military surplus) or Pyramex I-force. All 3 pass military impact ratings and are more than enough for airsoft.

Definitely get some heavier bbs.. .25s at least, and I'd recommend .28 or .32s.

Absolutely, you can buy an external charger that plugs into a wall socket and will charge up your battery. They come in various kinds and can hold one to four batteries. It is recommended when you start dealing with multiple batteries at a time.

Now, charging passthrough is fine, but having one extra battery to switch up is pretty convenient. Idealy if you charge up two batteries in the evening, you can get through your next day easily without having to plug in somewhere. If that's sounds good to you, I'd say go and get an extra battery and a charger :)

Battery wise, stick to these (this, this or this) and buy them from a trusted retailer (I believe Imrbatteries.com is one but I wouldn't know better, I personaly buy from nkon.nl since I'm in the EU).

As for a charger, this one and this one have done me no wrong in the past 2 or 3 years :) I haven't had any other.

EDIT: Oh and if you do get an extra battery, be sure not to carry it with other metallic objects around. Best is to have a silicone or hard plastic case (you can get that for very cheap on amazon or fasttech or something)

EDIT: you might want to save this post instead of the original post above because i update this one as i learn new things.



SUMMARY: shopping list to improve the arizer products by a lot (and the approximate prices that I PAID FOR THESE LONG BEFORE I MADE THIS POST)

COMPATIBLE FOR SOLO & AIR:

1. favorite stem (single bore "turbo"): http://www.planetvape.ca/pvhegong-high-efficiency-gong.html ($28 for 1)
   
2. favorite screens (use convex orientation --> reduces stem capacity to 0.025g = 40 stem loads per 1.0 grams = 140 sessions per 1/8th!): http://www.ebay.com/itm/10-Arizer-Solo-Vaporizer-Domed-Bowl-Stainless-Vape-Screens-12mm-x-6mm-1-2-x1-4-/201462898050?hash=item2ee81fdd82:g:9hgAAOxyyUtSbtzv ($10 for 10)
   
3. favorite water attachment: http://www.dhgate.com/product/d020-bubbler-hand-blown-glass-vase-perc-water/246522526.html#s1-1-1a;searl|2451201484 ($25 for 1)
   
4. various accessories (optional to use with the DHgate glass, but these custom 3D printed things come from /u/evilbadgrades and will probably come in handy): http://delta3dstudios.com/portable-vaporizer-accessories/arizer-air/ ($4 - $12 per item)
   
5. favorite external battery charger: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00QF3YRZ0?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00 ($12 for 1 during holiday sales)
   
   ___
   SOLO ONLY:
   
   
6. favorite extended battery upgrade: http://www.ebay.com/itm/221583944478?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT ($20 for 1 during holiday sales)
   
7. alternative high capacity 3400mAh battery (from FC's "battery expert", CentiZen): http://vapepower.ca/product/arizer-solo-hc-battery/ ($48 for 1 battery + $14 shipping to USA) BONUS, click here now & thank me later: http://fuckcombustion.com/threads/vapepower-high-performance-vaporizer-batteries.9571/page-4#post-536269
   
8. DIY high capacity battery pack (from /u/sgentus): https://www.reddit.com/r/vaporents/comments/2nsfwl/howto_build_a_high_capacity_battery_pack_for_my/ (price unknown)
   
   ___
   AIR ONLY:
   
   
9. cheapest OEM battery (guaranteed safe from FC's "battery expert", CentiZen): http://vapepower.ca/product/oem-arizer-air-battery-2150mah/ ($12 for 1 battery + $14 shipping to USA) POTENTIAL BONUS, please report back here if this works: http://fuckcombustion.com/threads/vapepower-high-performance-vaporizer-batteries.9571/page-4#post-536269
   
10. cheap battery alternative (recommended & used by /u/XmaGe): https://www.fasttech.com/products/0/10001980/1141100-panasonic-ncr18650b-rechargeable-3400mah-3-7v ($10 for 2) http://www.illumn.com/18650-samsung-inr18650-25r-r5-2500mah-green-high-discharge-flat-top.html ($14 for 2 shipped or $5 each + $4 flat shipping) edited due to my lack of knowledge about batteries and --> https://www.reddit.com/r/arizer/comments/3wbhg1/arizer_soloair_battery_options/cxva7iy
    
11. optional car charger: PM /u/chevyfried ($12 for 1)
    
    ___
    happy vaping!
    
    UPDATES made 12/18/15
    
    (i already know im a dork!)

> updated like and idiot to get Chrono Cross from the store

Ouch. Could've just made a PSP EBOOT from PS1 discs (pretty sure a hacked Vita can load PSX2PSP EBOOTs, right?)...

Now, about games you can play, I'd recommend the Absolute Zero translation of Tales of Phantasia (PS1), which you can convert into a PSP EBOOT and play if your PSP is hacked. It's of my favorite games of all time, but the only 'official' English release was a horrible GBA port (Tales of Eternia for PSP is also amazing, but it was a UK-only release and imports go for nearly $100 in the US last time I checked -- the PS1 version, called Tales of Destiny II in the US, may or may not be cheaper). The Tales games are all action-JRPGs though, if that's an issue; they have side-scrolling real-time action battle systems in otherwise birds-eye-view worlds.

Also for PSP, I'd like to second /u/clazaa's recommendation of The Legend of Heroes: Trails in the Sky, which feels very 'old school', like the SNES JRPG era never ended -- it's every bit as detailed and interesting as Chrono Trigger, Final Fantasy, and the other JRPG classics.

As a side-note, I'd like to point out that decent PSP battery replacements are still readily available on places like eBay and Amazon. This one sounds really decent judging by the reviews (though I haven't bought one myself): it's an 1800mAh battery that supposedly works for about 7-8 hours according to the top review. For comparison, the stock battery that came with my PSP 3000 is a 1200mAh battery which last for 5-6 hours... :)

I have done the VV/VW mods and now just got a mech mod. I am loving the mech mod and wish that I did not waste so much money with all the other stuff.

With the mech mod, if you need control of your wattage you can always add a kick for super cheap. But honestly, I am enjoying controlling my "heat" (wattage) with the coils I build. You can use the following calculator to easily find this out: http://www.steam-engine.org/ohm.asp

For $80 I got a mod, RDA, RBA, 2x batteries, charger, and accessories all from FastTech & Amazon. If you willing to wait the shipping (2 - 3 weeks for me) it is well worth it.

• MOD - https://www.fasttech.com/p/1649200
  
• RDA - https://www.fasttech.com/p/1765000
  
• RBA - https://www.fasttech.com/p/1699800
  
• Nemesis/Kayfun Hybrid mode connector - https://www.fasttech.com/p/1662400
  
• Drip Tip - https://www.fasttech.com/p/1447706
  
• Batteries - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00J470LTA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
• Charger - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KAX6FI8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
  Hope this helps give you an idea. Let me know if you have any questions.

For safe shut downs, charging warnings, and charging status - Adafruit PowerBoost 1000 Charger - Rechargeable 5V Lipo USB Boost @ 1A - 1000C-Purchased from amazon, https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01BMRBTH2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Shell used-Gametown® Full Housing Shell Cover Case Pack with Screwdriver for Nintendo Gameboy Classic/Original GB DMG-01 Repair Part-White (pick whatever color you want)-Purchased from amazon, https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01K1C2L1C/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Screen used- BW 3.5 Inch TFT LCD Monitor For Car/Automobile – purchased from amazon, https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0045IIZKU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (side note here is that in order to make this fit nicer, I installed it upside down in the case.

Speak used - uxcell 16pcs 27mm External Magnetic Speaker Loudspeaker 8 Ohm 0.25W, purchased from amazon, https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B010V4RAAW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (do not put ANYTHING on the top of the speaker when you install or it will not work.

Prototyping bread board, I purchased from amazon but it is no longer available at the link.

I used this PCB for the buttons on 1 build, the drill guide is VERY useful for this project. - 4 Button PCB For Gameboy DMG-01DIY Pi Zero Made In USA With Grounds and Hole Guide BY:Atomic Market, purchased at amazon, https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01JKJCQVM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

L-R buttons- 100 Pcs 6 x 6mm x 9.5mm PCB Momentary Tactile Tact Push Button Switch 4 Pin DIP, purchased at amazon https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008420WOA/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

28 Gauge Wire - Ribbon Cable - 10 Wire (15ft), purchased at amazon, https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007R9SQQM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (I recommend going to a smaller (higher) gauge than 28. 30 or 32 would have made it a lot easer but 28 will do.

Indicator lights, Uxcell a11092800ux0119 Uxcell (Pack of 75), purchased at amazon, https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01F0TCXSW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (these are totally optional)

Resistors and capicitors (audio), purchased from https://www.taydaelectronics.com Note: heres the guide I used for the audio too! https://sudomod.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=480

Old Gameboy game cartridge. For aesthetics.
Headphone jack, ebay, https://www.ebay.com/itm/3-5mm-Stereo-Female-Socket-Audio-Jack-5Pin-PCB-Panel-Mount-Connector-PJ325-/400959590673

Volume wheel, ebay, https://www.ebay.com/itm/20pcs-B103-16x2mm-10K-Ohm-Double-Dial-Taper-Volume-Wheel-Duplex-PotentiometerBS/293146992835?epid=11009192051&_trkparms=ispr%3D1&hash=item4440ec20c3:g:NZkAAOSw3h1ZUavq&enc=AQAEAAAB0BPxNw%2BVj6nta7CKEs3N0qUCHDbWKwW7sKftQNu9OoIx7SAZoMMNoO7ZC%2BQU2m6tHizIeixg2Hdk8yQin%2B7yNcIdtTzT%2FneqdaLt1WntvDDMDNnZ9%2BCyBsPWRiKLCNPKdeaaZNnBjMoVA%2F0tK%2BtG7DVLtcUKV1a4ZUD8%2F3Lgu9eesPLoBiXZs77Vo7R%2FDaZVMV%2FquPTyLO%2FBFipuEkim1t7BIMiLOi2P3Z31r4yxIdLUw6SCVesvVeqBQuoKov776Dxzk8pUY7PZvu4Q3ULnqBWmlWXsKXc8iAp9juNxUBFHnDgW6A7iElTGYe0sQRXfFHW73jI62f5aO%2FnqGANNK%2F7KJlu474aR3Gae9%2FJCT%2FwoLqmBb4FfizrUJ6qKEuVeLAi31kJSoJXIv4msi3r0bMNSm2D7FL5DUBr0Bc4xsSPi7KFWI9AhmQjUn%2FsLVysgEKd8QEildi1DULaVOX11bv95PGoXvfAusYXSi5NQZk4oZJHr6QIjXu5w4e9Nd2lFtmG4ZB%2BkqROOwwliad72iafj6cbSLphBAjtWGZQVNbmcdKXG6S8h7cTVqt0aD4oej7%2BlDVihmo%2BV0Rc2MhA9FgkM%2BcyzPd0qc9vHvdxjpQUq&checksum=2931469928353c744c25da8843a496116014d4766745

Micro SD card (16 GB minimum)

Female Micro usb Port, (I know I did buy these but I can’t find the link. I bought female micro usb ports to make charging easier.)

I want to say this is the battery that I used, specifically because after taking the shell off it was the perfect fit inside of a gutted Gameboy Game cartridge-https://www.bestbuy.com/site/mycharge-razorplus-4000mah-portable-charger-for-most-usb-enabled-devices-silver/6292246.p?skuId=6292246

3d printed button wells-http://market.sudomod.com/3d-printed-gbz-button-wells/

Extra buttons-https://www.retromodding.com/collections/gameboy

Screw bracket-http://market.sudomod.com/3d-printed-gbz-screw-bracket/

I got A LOT of buttons, glass screen shields, the other three builds button PCBs, some stickers, seriously a lot of stuff from https://store.kitsch-bent.com/ his store is unfortunately closed as he has had life catch up to him and has some shit to attend to. If he comes back online show him some love.

Stuff I got from kitsch
PCB board with LR input points
Buttons for X/Y (you can opt to just get replacement snes or an extra set of Gameboy buttons.
Glass screen that fit the GB shell after removing extra plastic


And obviously you should have a pi zero/w as well a shit ton of patience.

Hi mike mike mike mike mike mike mike mike mike mike!

I'm a stay at home mom. It's super stressful and lonely sometimes, but it's also pretty rewarding. This battery charger off of my needs wish list would be really helpful. I always have so many projects going on, batteries are in pretty high demand. I don't like using the throw away kind, they are expensive and don't last very long around here, so being able to charge a lot at once would be incredibly beneficial. Edit: I can't use words.

The BLF A6 is still a good flashlight, especially for the price. IMO it's still hard to beat that bang for your buck. The next step up in bang for your buck is the Emisar D4. IMO, those two are pretty solid depending on your price point. You can pay hundreds of dollars for a single flashlight, but either of those are going to be an EXTREME upgrade if you are used to AA and AAA battery flashlights, and are very, very hard to beat in their price ranges. Those two can match a lot of lights that cost hundreds of dollars honestly

There are several styles. The main ones are

Headlamp - You wear them with a head band. Quite useful for camping, speulunking etc

Thrower - Throw light long distance, for when you want to light up a hillside a few hundred yards away

Flood - Spread light in a wide area at close range, for when you want to light up an entire room.

IMO, Flood are the more useful, but throw lights have their uses

A few things to note,

• Decent flashlights get hot. Like, REALLY hot. The BLF A6 doesn't get that hot, but if you use it for a while the tip will get hot enough to be uncomfortable to touch. I've about set my pants on fire with it before when it got turned on by accident in my pocket. The D4 actually WOULD set your pants on fire, or burn you, so be careful
  
• "Real" Flashlights take larger batteries. Most use 18650, the same as Vapes use. They are about 5-15 dollars a piece depending on nice of one you get. They are rechargable and last years though, so you really just need 1-3 per flashlight. Most flash lights will last several hours on one battery, which translates to . . .quite a lot of actual time since you don't typically use a flashlight for hours at a time
  
• You'll need a charger. They can charge AA and AAA too, so it's wise to buy some good old fashioned Eneloops just for quality of life, to use around the house since you already have a charger. Those aren't related to the flashlight or anything, they are just a very nice QoL upgrade you can make to your house in general, since they last 5-10 years and are essentially as good as disposable batteries, and you can just use them over and over. Nice for all the remotes and controllers!
  
  
  
  

They come with 2 non-rechargable cr123s. I'm not too confident on rechargeable options, but I know that whatever charger you're going to get needs to be able to adjust to correct voltage of batteries and protect against overcharging.


NITECORE i4 (New 2014 version) Intellicharge universal smart battery Charger For Li-ion / IMR / Ni-MH/ Ni-Cd 26650 22650 18650 18490 18350 17670 17500 17335 16340 RCR123 14500 10440 AA AAA AAAA C types with Ac and 12V DC (Car) power cords, 2 X EdisonBright AA to D type battery spacer/converters https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KBGDK8M/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_20zyub109G7SE

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EDIT: here's a link to some batteries - 12Pcs Tenergy Propel CR123A Lithium Battery with PTC Protected https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003EOMVX8/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_04zyub066SV4Q

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Also, another commonly recommended flashlight on this sub is olight's s10 or s20. Similar specs as 47s, but a little cheaper with a different button layout and UI that people seem to like... I've never owned one myself (don't like the side button), so I can't give any more details on it. This one doesn't come with batteries though Olight S20 Baton LED Flashlight 470 Lumens - Use Two CR123A or One 18650 Battery https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AJNSL5O/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_v8zyub125ZVNP

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Bonus for this light is that it can fit an 18650 battery, which will last a very long time.

To marry batteries, You have to always charge them at the same time (relatively) and use them at the same time, never mis match batteries and make sure they are the same brand and specs. If you charge them and discharge them at the same time that is what makes them married. If you have not been doing that then you need to buy new batteries and make sure to always charge them and use them at the same times. I don't know much about that charger but seems a bit cheap, It could be perfectly fine I just don't have experience. I have the same mod and tank as you and this is the charger and batteries I use (I'm not from he UK so sorry if these links don't work I tried) https://www.amazon.co.uk/Nitecore-D2-DigiCharger-Rechargeable-Battery/dp/B00KSJ4ARC/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1472894361&sr=8-4&keywords=nitecore and I use two of these batteries https://www.amazon.co.uk/Efest-18650-2500-Genuine-Battery/dp/B0183AM5JM/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1472894437&sr=8-2&keywords=efest+vape Again, I'm not from the UK so I'm not sure is these links will work make sure to let me know. If there are any questions just keep them coming and I'll try my best to answer them.

How much money are you willing to blow on a charger?

If you want something cheap from the grocery store, the Duracell chargers are acceptable at $12 (with bundled batteries!). But these cheap chargers can only charge 2 at a time minimum. With a large enough stash of batteries however, that's no problem at all. Just have a "discharge" bin and a "charged" bin to help organize your batteries.

If you're willing to go $30 or more, there are much better options (including the ability to charge batteries one-at-a-time). But now you have to start asking yourself: you can just... buy more eneloops instead of buying a better charger. More batteries negates the problems that are associated with cheap chargers.

But honestly, why buy a faster charger when you instead can buy a cheap charger and 10+ AAs instead? There are some chargers that can automatically test your batteries (perform a full-charge / full-discharge test to see if a battery is worth keeping).

------------

If you're spending a large amount ($30 to $100) on a charger, definitely consider a 18650 / AA charger, in case you want to upgrade to the larger 18650 Lithium Ion battery. More size means more runtime and brighter lights, but you'll need a brighter flashlight as well as a stash of 18650 cells as well.

I got you bae

Smart charger

Batterys (get a couple of these

I think these mags will work

here are a couple grips to choose from

There are a lot of options for a sight, personally I'm not afraid to invest a little bit more because they are very important to me and look really cool :). This one looks pretty good imo. You may also want to get a riser.

The gun your getting looks really good, I hope you have a good experience with airsoft!

Have you not heard of rechargable AAs?

Anybody constantly buying non-rechargable AAs are asking to get their money stripped from them. I have had the same batteries I linked for 5 years now and they still charge like a champ and I always have fresh batteries ready to go at all times.

You may or may not be having battery issues, but since we're on that subject, here are some tips. First, make sure you change the batteries in your G3s at every meal break. Most of the time, a single pair will get you through a 12 hour day, but don't take the chance. Second, make sure you have a great AA charger. I recommend this one:

http://www.amazon.com/Titanium-Battery-100-240V-Adapters-MD-1600L/dp/B005UNPM3M

Finally, experiment with using a variety of rechargeable AA Ni-Mh brands with different capacities, and realize that these batteries will eventually wear out. Whenever I pick up another 8 rechargeables, I try a different brand. They're all basically interchangeable in terms of capacity, but this way I know which batteries are older and therefore nearing end of life.

I would also add the Astrolux MF01 as an option. Get the Nichia version (better color accuracy, you can see better details).

It, like the Q8 also has a tri-pod mount, which would be IDEAL for late-night repairs/work. Get a cheap mini tripod, set the light wherever you want, and it'll illuminate your work area for quite a while.

That, and a decent charger like the XTAR VC-4 plugged into the truck and you'd be all set. Both the Q8 and the MF01 are "soda can lights" meaning they're about the size of a soda can. Easy enough to toss in a jacket pocket. The MF01 also has a lanyard hole, so you could attach a cord to it and clip it where you need it.

Personally, I use Duracell rechargeables. They work quite well and can usually get several days of long play out of them. They work without issue in all of my other devices also. According to Amazon, I've had the oldest set for six years and they still work plenty well. (I have enough batteries to have them in rotation, so that might be three years of use for anyone else.)

While I imagine most rechargeables will be fine, I'd suggest steering clear of Energizer. In my experience, they only function well in tight battery sockets. In the spring-loaded Xbox 360 controllers, they will randomly shut off.

I just ordered this amazon basics high-capacity 8 pack:https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HZV9WTM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Along with this 8 battery smart charger: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EB7812C/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

They cost $30.18 after tax and have great reviews. I really don't care if they hold charge for years or last 1000s of cycles I just want to always have a backup set of batteries to switch to. I don't see myself using my HMD for more than 2-3 hours in any given day and I expect these to last several play sessions before swapping.

If anyone is interested in my experience with the two of these I would be happy to post a mini-review.

Ditto on D2. You can get this one and it comes with a battery case for $1 more! I had an i2 and it worked great; gave it to a friend, now using the D2. Both worked and still work great.

http://smile.amazon.com/NiteCore-NIT-D2-BBOX-Charger-Universal/dp/B00QF3YRZ0/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1464967779&sr=8-5&keywords=nitecore+d2

I'm pretty new to my MFLB, but I find that 1 battery for two people is enough (a battery lasts ~1.5 to 2 trenches). I don't have the adapter, but I've heard that it's really good if you're mostly smoking inside. Personally, I value the flexibility of batteries over the reliability of adapters, so I ordered extra batteries and a bigger charging station.

Illumn.com is one of the most trusted battery vendors. The VTC4 are sold by LightningVapes.com I can't guarantee if they're authentic or not.

I believe Illumn has coupon code 'ispower' or 'ISPOWER' or something like that for 10% off.

I'd recommend the XTar VP2 charger. I have the VP1 and I love it. You can select charging rate from 0.25A, 0.5A, and 1A and it's got an LCD screen that shows the battery's current charge level.

If that's out of your price range, then just grab a Nitecore Intellicharger i2 for around $15

For my (future) sub ohm mech modders out there. Here is a quality setup that will allow you to rebuild to your heart's delight. I recommend a minimum of 4 batteries.

• 1x Emit Vapor Shotgun - http://www.vapercompany.com/Emit-Vapor-Shotgun-p/b10evs.htm
  
  
• 1x Trident V2 Atomizer (adjustible air flow and slotted posts are great.) - http://www.shopmvg.com/products/trident-v2
  
  
• 1x 100ft roll of 28awg Kanthal A1 wire - http://www.amazon.com/Kanthal-Wire-28-Gauge-Resistance/dp/B00FBSVQX6/
  
  
• 1x Wire Cutting tool - http://www.amazon.com/Hakko-CHP-170-Maximum-Cutting-Capacity/dp/B00FZPDG1K/
  
  
• 1x Ohm Meter - http://101vape.com/meters/170-ohms-meter.html
  
  
• 1x Cotton Roll (to use as wicks) - http://www.amazon.com/Cotton-Roll-Sterile-12-1-56/dp/B0008F6HOU/
  
  
• ?x Vape Juice (pick as many as you like) - http://www.vaportrailsnw.com/
  
  
• 4x 18650 batteries. Currently Sony VTC4 batteries are the best on the market. - http://www.amazon.com/Sony-US18650VTC4-2100mAh-Rechargeable-Batteries/dp/B00J470LTA/
  
  
• 1x Efest LUC Charger (easy to use and LCD display helps) - http://www.amazon.com/Efest-Charger-Digital-Battery-Readout/dp/B00GK7JMJ2/
  
  optional
  
  
• Small Carrying Case - http://illuminationsupply.com/battery-carriers-c-48_49/ecig-mod-zippered-carry-case-p-963.html#.U06cnPldX8A
  
  
• Large Carrying Case - http://www.amazon.com/16-Bottle-Essential-Presentation-Portfolio-5-15ml/dp/B0007SMXRI/

If you want to stick with stock motors, imr cells will work fine. But those are icr, not imr. most use aw or efest cells. the nitecore I series chargers are what alot of people recommend, though i prefer the luc series. Both are good.
If you decide to go with rhino motors, a pack is going to be the way you want to go. 14500 cells just don't have the amperage to handle them properly or safely.

My girlfriend picked up a pair of Duracel Rechargables for us and they've been working great.

If you prefer the Microsoft route it's always reliable.

Or the ever popular Eneloop Rechargables

All 3 of those options last quite a long time, I've only tried the Duracel's but they've been fantastic for such a cheap price.

Mamut Grips. Straps the controllers to your hands so you can open and relax your hands without dropping the controllers. Not only do they improve comfort by allowing you to relax your hands, it also increases immersion since if you aren't holding something in-game you don't have to be gripping anything IRL, either.

Not really comfort-related, but a good set of rechargeable batteries for the controllers. Each controller needs one AA battery. I use this set.

it would need at least detailed sharp, pics of both sides of the board and clear picture or schematics of the wiring.

OTOH, you do get what you pay for. Is $60 too much for being sure that your house doesn't burn down because of a cheaply made junker? Fixing the problems in the cheap one would likely cost more than that.

Finally, a much better solution than these chargers is to buy a normal fast charger for 4-8 AA cells. Some of those chargers will charge a pack in 60 minutes, there were even some that did it in 15 (but those needed special type of NiMh cells).

E.g. something like this:
https://www.vapextech.co.uk/fast-smart-charger-for-1-8-aa-or-aaa-nimh-batteries-lcd-display-vapextech/
That has both fast charging, detection of a faulty battery and trickle charge maintenance, so that the batteries are always topped up and ready to go. That is vastly more capable than the charger you have found and costs about the same.

Or this one - a bit more expensive but the charging time doesn't increase with the number of batteries inserted:
https://www.amazon.com/Powerex-MH-C800S-8-Cell-Smart-Charger/dp/B000LQMKDS

Yes, I get it that replacing batteries is a pain in the backside compared to just plunking the remote on a charger but you get much better life out of the batteries by separately charging each cell.

I've tried a couple times to get a ZeroW working w/ OTG mass storage and the 3 doesn't recognize it as storage (Windows does, Linux does, but not the 3). Anybody have any pointers?

​

I've used this power supply and a battery with good luck on other projects. There a pin to use as a GPIO input for putting the Pi to sleep and wake up when power is re-applied.

I got a nitecore i4 on amazon and signed up for the 30 day prime trial. 2 day free shipping is great http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00KBGDK8M/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1419623236&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SY200_QL40&dpPl=1&dpID=51-2TSxGTZL&ref=plSrch

This is a much better price and deal:

https://www.amazon.com/EBL-Battery-Charger-Rechargeable-Batteries/dp/B00M2RA8XS/ref=sr_1_4?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1498491956&sr=1-4&keywords=ebl%2Brechargeable%2Bbatteries&th=1

I use these, have used these for years and they are great. You are getting 8 batteries + charger for 2 bucks less.
Make sure you pick the 8 AA batteries. Also these are 2800 vs 2500.

What temp are you using and is the grasshopper/batteries new? Using on temp ~3-3.5(finishing off with one or two hits on 4-5) I have been able to get about three bowls with a brand spanking new battery. But I have found they degrade quite quickly and the threading between the body and the back end has to be really clean to get the most out of it. I just had mine out tonight and got two bowls with the first battery with a little left to go(was done after that). But carrying spare batteries is a must if your using your hopper on the go all day or sharing it. My hopper daily carry set up includes 1 spare battery and portable charger like the ones I'll link to bellow. I have had a lot of luck with this set up. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IZQRC34/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M5KU97Q/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Will this one work ok? A Nitecore D2. Or does it need to be fancier or do something more than this one?

https://www.amazon.ca/Nitecore-D2-Digicharger-Universal-2-Channel/dp/B00KSJ4ARC/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1497332798&sr=1-3&keywords=nitecore+d2

Thanks for you help!

I use the same batteries. They're great for Xbox One controllers, because they have a higher mAh rating than the regular Eneloops, although they can't be recharged as many times (they can still be recharged hundreds of times though, so they will last years).

A smart charger does everything for you, so you pop 1 or more batteries into it, it'll charge them, then stop once they're fully charged.

If you have a bunch of rechargeable batteries of different types, I can highly recommend this charger: -

http://www.amazon.com/XTAR-Charger-Lithium-ion-Batteries-Authentic/dp/B010J9GE5G

It has a fast charging rate, can charge all kinds of different batteries, and everything is fully automatic. It only has 1 button on it, which turns the display on/off and switches the display between different banks of batteries.

However, the charger you've linked to is absolutely fine if you only need one for AA batteries.

I've got a couple of them.... I tested them to see if they'd be a decent product to bundle as an accessory with another product. For cost/performance reason - the results were no go.

From the description:

>”Green” as they are, however, recharging requires equipment that takes up space when you’re not using it. These batteries solve that problem.

While true, they solve this problem by adding a charger where you'd normally find a battery. The capacity is on these batteries is 1300mA. The lowest you can easily get for a "regular" NiMH rechargeable battery is 1500-2000mA, 2000 being more common.

To me, it doesn't make sense to add the cost of a charger to every single battery at the expense of battery capacity (which has long term consequences with respect to cycle life/depth of discharge). You can get higher capacity batteries with a charger for less money on amazon - and twice the number of batteries.


------
I'm sure, however, there are usage cases where having a built in charger is desirable. These usage cases do not include TV remotes, wireless mice and keyboards are not those usage cases...

Yes rechargeable is a must, here is what I got

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00FQ6K7TC?psc=1&ref=yo_pop_mb_pd_title

This one has some triple A also so maybe if you're just interested in double A I'm sure there's a pack

You're welcome

EBL Rechargeable AA Batteries 2300mAh Long Lasting Battery (8 Counts) with Battery Charger for AA AAA Batteries https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0148675WM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Q57hDbG3BNNWH

Thanks for the quick reply. And great question!

I'll be using these predominantly for camping. So, probably one weekend a month for 6 out of every 12 months.

Most of my gear takes either AAA or AA or CR123. Right now I have a full stock of everything but AAA. And I'll need 12 batteries for each outing.

I've gone out in the woods recently and failed to bring extra batteries. The appeal of rechargeables, allow me to be more confident before going out into the wild for a weekend.

I found a two options:

A battery recharge kit with 12 rechargeable batteries for about $22

[Recharge Kit - $10](EBL 8 Bay AA, AAA, Ni-MH, Ni-Cd Rechargeable Battery Charger https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00EB7812C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_T8R6xb5WA9P3B)

[Rechargeable Batteries - 12 pack $12](EBL AAA 800MAH Rechargeable Battery (12 Pack) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00EV1D7MC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_x9R6xb8TNM4CG)

Or

[36 Pack AAA $10](AmazonBasics AAA Performance Alkaline Batteries (36-Pack) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LH3DMUO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_9iP6xbS3GXYWJ)

After using several "charging station" kits with proprietary battery packs, backs and charging stations (Energizer & Nyko), I just recently took everyone's advice and switched to NiMH rechargeable. I myself went with the EBL brand 2800 mAh kit. It came with a charger and 8 AA batteries, and I have to tell you, the difference is night and day. I play every day for at least 2 hours, and on the weekends, it's not uncommon to put in 4-6 hours each day, and I only have to recharge these batteries, at most, once every 2 weeks... I'm NOT exaggerating. Plus now I can use my original battery backs (especially nice if you have any custom controllers).

This is the kit I bought: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00M2RA8XS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Unfortunately the one I use is sold out at Amazon.

Titanium Smart Fast 16 Bay Ni-MH AA/AAA Battery Charger AC 100-240V + DC Adapters MD-1600L https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005UNPM3M/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_7KB9ub1TAAHJA

It's a great charger, shows each individual cell, has a discharge cycle. I haven't put it through a ton of use, but it has held up very well.

cheapest way to get the Q8

fastest way to the the Q8

really good and easy to use charger

my favorite 18650s. Note that lithium ion batteries aren’t a thing to skimp on, and many sites sell poor quality counterfeits.

Get her a Vamo v5 a Kayfun 3.1 some good batteries and a nice charger, fill it up with some Moo Juice and you will have a convert.

Amazon Basics Rechargeable AA's - Better than the standard Play & charge - last for a week or two before you need to recharge, recharge fully in a couple hours.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HZV9WTM/

This Charger:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FQ6K7TC/

Any smart nimh charger will work. this ones pretty cheap.

I'm in the market for an inexpensive, portable, 3-point lighting solution for DSLR web videos as well. Here's what I'm leaning towards.

• 3 x NEEWER® 160 LED CN-160 Dimmable Ultra High Power Panel Digital Camera / Camcorder Video Light = 3 x $33 = $99
  
  Each light takes 6 AA batteries, so I'll get
  
  
• 20 pack rechargeable AA eneloop batteries = $50
  
• 2 x 16-bay AA Charger = 2 x $50 = $100
  
  I'd like to mount the lights using Gorillapods with flashshoe adapters
  
  
• 3 x Joby GorillaPod Hybrid = 3 x $40 = $120
  
• 3 x Joby GorillaPod Flash Clip for HYBRID = 3 x $5 = $15
  
  So it's less than $400 for a very portable 3 point lighting kit.

Good to know, thank you.

This is the one I got: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00D4LP7E6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


It seemed to have the highest percentage of decent reviews. I guess we'll see.

I use Duracell Rechargeable Batteries. They're 2500mAH for the AA's and they seem to last quite a while, though I'm a casual player so my controller isn't on often. I drained one set of batteries to see how long it'd take to recharge and they seem to recharge pretty fast too.

I bought 2 8Cells chargers here

I dont need the LCD in 1/3 charge increments so it works great and its cheaper.

I checked my email history, I bought the battery in 2017 and it was called Fosmon LVL 6 Efficiency Replacement Battery for PSP 1000.

Unfortunately, it doesn't look like it is for sale anymore for PSP on Amazon (though they do have 2000/3000), sorry :-(

I haven't had to buy a PSP battery since then so you will have to do a little homework but this one seemed to be the highest rated on Amazon for PSP 1000: https://www.amazon.com/SONY-PSP-1000-1001-capacity-Rechargeable/dp/B00D4LP7E6

I love my PSPs and so do my sons... I am going to be so upset if one day batteries for my 1000 and 3000 are no longer available.

I use EBL rechargeables and they do the job perfectly. I used them in the Rift controllers and now in two sets of Quest controllers.

EBL AA

hate to say it, as you are thinkin 'great, another thing to buy... but get the external charger, the usb circuitry is not robust enough in many folks eyes in most of these handheld mods. they are easy to snag on amazon, and worth the piece of mind that the battery will stop being charged when it reaches optimal capacity.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00K88LH88/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

For controllers. Quest and Odyssey 2X EBL Rechargeable AA Batteries 2300mAh Long Lasting Battery (8 Counts) with Battery Charger for AA AAA Batteries

Use this at the gym Portable Charger RAVPower 18W PD 10000mAh Portable Charger 10000 USB C Power Bank External Battery Pack

This for movies AUKEY USB C Power Bank 30000mAh, Portable Charger with Quick Charge 3.0

All via some discount via Kinja or Slickdeals.

I use this one to recharge my eneloops, works great.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005UNPM3M/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This. I've had them since I got my xbox in 08. They're wonderful.

> Amazon Basics high capacity rechargeables

I'll have to try these!

Edit: I ended up finding some other brand of higher capacity AA batteries which I presume are a tad larger and will fit more snugly. These are supposed to be 2400 Mah: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00007ISWA/

Thanks a lot, lesson learned!

I've ordered this charger

Now I just have to make it through the new year without an ecig! ¬¬

Buy based on the results of the test http://fuckcombustion.com/threads/the-arizer-air.16415/page-64#post-713139

https://www.reddit.com/r/vaporents/comments/2s7wib/arizer_air_has_shitty_battery_life_am_i_alone/

I bought these they work fine & [this charger] ( http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KAX6FI8/ref=pe_385040_128020140_TE_3p_dp_1)

Im not sure if they give me longer sessions but if I'm out all day and one runs out I can just swap them easily

I ended up buying this charger from Vapenw https://www.amazon.com/XTAR-VC4-Lithium-ion-Batteries-Authentic/dp/B010J9GE5G

I should have everything in hand on Thursday.

It works okay, doesnt stick out at all. I did find that switching to regular AA rechargeables was less annoying and less expensive however.

I say this because for the same money as a play and charge kit I was able to buy 8 rechargeables and a charger; I dont have to recharge them as often, its very convenient to be able to switch them out on the fly rather than having to tether in everytime my controller dies, and the xbox seems to give me more warning when my batteries are low. i.e. with play and charge it notified me maybe 60 seconds before a battery fail compared to about 10 minutes with rechargeables.

Amazon is a great place to buy them if you do consider AA rechargeables

Edit: a link to the one I bought


https://www.amazon.com/EBL-Battery-Charger-Rechargeable-Batteries/dp/B0148675WM/


Vs Microsoft play and charge


https://www.amazon.com/Microsoft-Official-Xbox-Charge-Packaging/dp/B00CM1KU82/

Rechargeable batteries? For my Xbox 360, these lasted me about 4 or 5 years! https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000XSBVMU/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_ZpYnybXYMPP7V

Also helpful when you need batteries for other things, too.

Never skimp on batteries and chargers. Your set up is only as good as the weakest component and you definitely do not want that component to be the battery.

You should not be using Li-On batteries period. You should be using IMR (Sony VCT series, MXJO) or INR batteries (Samsung 25r). Rule of thumb for chargers is to avoid any brand with "Fire" in the name. Get a good Nitecore i2/i4 or Efest LUC 2/4.

My Pick

• 875 lumens (ANSI rated)
  
• Plenty of throw with a buttery, bright spill beam
  
• Pocketable
  
• Waterproof
  
• Runs on 1x 18650
  
• Legendary on BLF forums
  
  Your Charger and Your Battery
  

Please excuse me

one of these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01BMRBTH2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The deal is, the USB on that battery is too tall for what I'm doing. I'm going to solder it off. I want to directly connect the battery with thin wire and I wanted to know how to wire the battery up.

Or NiMH - I have a set like this which has lasted years so far!

Something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/EBL-Ni-MH-Rechargeable-Battery-Charger/dp/B00EB7812C/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1468801923&sr=8-3&keywords=battery+charger

Everything past /dp/B00EB7812C should be removed.

Couldn’t agree more. I’m still using a XTAR VP2, that I picked up 4 years ago. It dose 0.25, 0.50, and 1 amp per cell charging.

This is the review sold me on the charger.

A cheap (free) source of 18650 cells are laptop power packs. You can disassemble them and re-use the still working cells. The cells will have mediocre capacity and some will not work anymore. The cells are unprotected, that means they may ignite when overloaded (short circuit) or overcharged with a bad charger.

My preferred charger is the XTar VC4 ($25). I like its simple, but informative display and simple usage. Drop in a cell and it will charge.

I think it is important to buy a good charger, it will stay with you for years. If you have requirements for reliability or long runtime, then good quality cells are important too. But cells do wear out and suffer with age. The charger much less so.

No not for nimh batteries, that's why some people prefer them. They're (for the most part) worry/hassle free.


This is the one I use for the nimh batteries I still have.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004W8H5CM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_JejMDbM8VE47R

Have a look at Panasonic Eneloop batteries, they are designed to be used and abused and have almost zero self discharge.

Photographers love them for use in their flashes and other camera gear.

Grab a multi-pack plus a charger to go with it and you will be set for years (mine typically last about 5-6 years).

https://www.amazon.com/BK-4MCA24-CA-eneloop-Pre-Charged-Rechargeable/dp/B07CWWR6Z1?ref_=bl_dp_s_web_3446481011

https://www.amazon.com/Powerex-MH-C800S-8-Cell-Smart-Charger/dp/B000LQMKDS?ref_=bl_dp_s_web_2530190011

I see better performance from the rechargeable batteries than the Duracell's I used before. I bought these batteries and I let them fully charge and then unplug the charger from the wall because I don't trust it to be on overnight.

Hey there you are, I was hoping you'd see my thread since I knew you had experience with other chargers. :)

I now have 4 ways of charging the hopper's batteries, and 3 of those methods involve constant current. The hopper charger is the only one that dances around all over the place.

3 other chargers I have (in no particular order)

1. Nitecore F1 - Charges at a constant 1 amp
   
2. XTAR MC1 - Charges at a constant .5 amp
   
3. Olight UC - Charges at a constant .75 amp
   
   I'm going to contact hopper labs and see if they'll provide some insight on this. Perhaps these batteries are designed for variable charging? I'm no expert on the matter, but constant amperage/voltage seems like a more normal method of charging batteries. Every lithium battery I've ever charged has been that way.

I have this model but I didn't buy it from amazon

Charger

I think whoever repleid to me or xkristian is shadowbanned.

I've been using these for about 3 months. No issues so far.
https://www.amazon.com/2500mah-discharge-Samsung-INR18650-25R-li-ion/dp/B00QKD4V4C

This is the charger I got: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00QF3YRZ0

Lots of good Arizer Air info here including a bit about batteries and chargers: https://www.reddit.com/r/vaporents/comments/4jilba/guide_arizer_air_compendium/

Efest luc has a cigarette lighter adapter I use it all the time to charge on the go here is a link for amazon http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00GK7JMJ2?cache=3eef10cf40cd53709b8acfd8b66320d0&pi=SX200_QL40&qid=1406737949&sr=8-3#ref=mp_s_a_1_3

I recently got these which are 2800mAh with a charger and cases for 8. Someone on here posted them a little bit back. The plastic wrapping also isnt glued to the battery so you just peel it off and you're good to go, no cleaning or anything else.

I did buy though amazon but near I could tell it's a proper adafuit product. Though looking more closely at it I guess it's a third party seller? This thing. Also I was following this tutorial from Adafruit's website. I want to say I did it right but this is my first crack at this kind of stuff, so I can't say for sure. I've since disassembled the whole thing in an attempt to figure out where I messed up.

http://www.amazon.com/Ni-MH-Ni-Cd-Rechargeable-Battery-Charger/dp/B00EB7812C/ref=redir_mobile_desktop?ie=UTF8&dpID=414XqbHiKoL&dpPl=1&keywords=nimh%20battery%20charger&pi=SY200_QL40&qid=1447726994&ref=plSrch&ref_=mp_s_a_1_1&sr=8-1

Sorry about your batteries. This one takes awhile, like overnight, but the 8-battery capacity really makes up for it.

I recommend this one at $18 because the it's an individual charger, and in my experience the batteries last for years.

This one is more popular and good too, but I replaced it with the other one because my batteries weren't lasting as long as they should (1 year instead of several), and I suspected it was overcharging them a bit. But it's $20 so who cares.

If I have 4 Eneloop Pros and 4 Eneloops (regular) can I charge them at the same time on my 8 capacity charger even though they have different mAh ratings? If it matters I have the MAHA MH-C800S charger

I've been using one of these for years:

https://www.amazon.com/EBL-Ni-MH-Rechargeable-Battery-Charger/dp/B00EB7812C?th=1

Duracell rechargable duralock dc2450

https://www.amazon.ca/Duracell-Rechargeable-Long-Life-Batteries/dp/B00007ISWA/ref=pd_cp_23_3?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=DHHXWDREQF3BRQMV7EPD

http://www.amazon.com/Efest-Charger-Digital-Battery-Readout/dp/B00GK7JMJ2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1397937494&sr=8-1&keywords=efest+luc

Do this instead.

https://www.amazon.com/EBL-Battery-Charger-Rechargeable-Batteries/dp/B0148675WM

Duracell - Rechargeable AA Batteries - long lasting, all-purpose Double A battery for household and business - 4 count https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00007ISWA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_2eT3Cb9G1P9TR

Are you really saying you can't even spare $7?

https://www.amazon.com/XTAR-MC1-Battery-Charger-Single/dp/B00IZQRC34/?ie=UTF8&qid=1487722490

Here is the desktop version of your link

What are you charging them on? We talking 8hrs on one of these or one of these?

rechargeable batteries exist

amazon!

I use one of these at work.

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B005UNPM3M/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It's bigger than you need, but will do AA/AAA. Each bay is a circuit.

Is this the v1 you're referring to?

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GK7JMJ2

Bought this yesterday:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00M2RA8XS/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Im not sure where about in europe you are but you can get decent 2 bay chargers for a relatively cheap price. You can get the nitecore D2 for £19 in the UK: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B00KSJ4ARC/ref=mp_s_a_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1509942138&sr=8-7&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=nitecore&dpPl=1&dpID=51ak0oekh6L&ref=plSrch

Since you and /u/mpak87 are giving out good advice - I'm on the hunt for a 18650 charger setup. I've had https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B005UNPM3M/ for years with stellar results and stability for my regular AA and AAA recharging needs and I'm hoping to get something with this quality and built-in intelligence.

I've recycled more than a few sketch batteries after other chargers would barely charge them and this one indicated them as bad. Most of these have been old, but a few only went through only a few cycles, so I've ditched some cheap chargers as part of the problem too.

I went through 3 different brands of induction chargers. They all wear the batteries out very fast, and they all have intermittent problems with stopping/starting charging. They also drain insanely fast. Way faster than their man ratings would indicate that they should.

From my personal experiences, I've decided that induction charging is just not "there yet" at these low price points.

Get yourself some name brand rechargeable batteries, and charge them in a wall charger.

You can usually get 4 batteries and a charger form duracell for about $20, and then get 4 packs of batteries themselves for $10 - $15.

The benefit here is that once you get about 20 batteries in your home, you'll never need to buy batteries again (or at least for, say, another 10 years or so, tip they wear out)

NINJA EDIT:

4 pack of batteries, with charger on Amazon.com

4 pack of batteries, by themselves on Amazon.com

I charge mine the night before a shoot. Also, consider getting one of these chargers. 16 slots, AA or AAA, you can mix them up, put in as many as you'd like, they slow charge, show power levels, and stop charging when full.

Charger

Batteries

With that said, I would recommend a different mod. The Hammer has really, REALLY bad voltage drop, which means you won't get very good performance out of it. In addition to that, the battery is an 18350. AW makes the best 18650 on the market (the one I linked), but it's only 6.8 amps IIRC. With all of that said, you won't be able to wrap your coils very low, and you will have to deal with very bad voltage drop. All in all, I don't think you would enjoy your purchase, but to each his own.

Happy vaping!

or hell, This one, for really intense people

I don't have one that I can recommend from personal experience. The following have god reviews and much of what I would look for in a charger.

http://www.amazon.com/EBL%C2%AE-Version-Charger-Rechargeable-Batteries/dp/B00EB7812C/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1412272480&sr=8-1&keywords=battery+charger

That seems like a good charger with some basic features for a good price.

http://www.amazon.com/La-Crosse-Technology-Battery-Charger/dp/B000RSOV50/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1412272480&sr=8-3&keywords=battery+charger

This charger, on the other hand, has all the features you could possibly want but you pay for them all.

A few features that make a surprisingly big difference.

Capacity. If you blow through batteries you might need more than a 4 slot charger.

Speed. If you're down to your last charge cell it can be annoying to wait for hours before it reaches a usable charge.

Battery indicator. Some chargers offer a full battery status report and some offer a simple light that is red for charging and green for full.

Charge cut-off/trickle charge. Over charging a battery will reduce it's working life and a bad charger will just keep pumping juice into it until you remove the cell. A good charger will cut off power or change to trickle charge to keep it at peak performance for longer.

Single cell charging. The basic battery charger I have will only charge batteries in sets of two. That means I can't charge one or three at a time. More of an inconvenience than a real problem.

http://www.vaporpedia.com/wiki/Magic-Flight_Launch_Box


"
How does the Launch Box vaporize?

When asked to explain how the Launch Box heats up, FC member OF provided this response:

That one's easy, it's them little bitty electrons, right?

Current (orderly flow of electrons in one direction) comes down the negative rod to where it's 'welded' to the mesh of the screen. Notice how the screen wires run straight across (at least half do)? The current then splits into one of the few hundred paths available to the other rod and then back to the positive of the battery (where they join in a chemical reaction that 'pumps' the electrons around the circuit). As 'pressure is lost' (that's voltage to us), power in the form of heat happens. Since about .75 Volts makes it to the mesh (the rest is lost in the battery and connections) that number (in Volts) times the current (15 Amps nominally) gives us the delivered power in Watts. A bit over 11 Watts in our case, the same general level as Omicron for instance. "Log vapes" run about 8 Watts.

All the useful work is done by the side to side wires in the mesh, the front to back ones are there for mechanical support only.

The key is the stainless steel of the mesh. It a poor conductor (high resistance relatively) and is really tiny in cross section. A lot goes into that material selection.
"


.75 V at mesh from the excerpt at Vaporpedia. I also measured about .75V with my voltmeter during operation.

The internal battery resistance @1khz for a duracell nimh battery is about 20 mOhm which is given here. It's 1kHz but since were operating at DC well just say this is the internal resistance at DC because it's close enough.

http://ww2.duracell.com/media/en-US/pdf/gtcl/Product_Data_Sheet/NA_DATASHEETS/DC1500%20NiMh-%202450mAH-AA.pdf

Even with this shitty nimh the math checks out and the current produced is 22.5 A.

http://imgur.com/7bpkQ0B

Now if you want to use a fully charged battery at 1.35 V then the current will be higher. Then if you want to use a non shitty nimh with even lower internal resistance like the glyph batteries the current will be even higher.

Using these high currents does kill the batteries faster but no one gives a shit since they cost about $10 / 4 = $2.5 dollars each and last about 6 months or a year.

http://www.amazon.com/Duracell-Rechargeable-Batteries-Count-Packaging/dp/B00007ISWA/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1397465536&sr=8-4&keywords=duracell+nimh