(Part 2) Reddit mentions: The best industrial materials

I wanted to share my first experience with switch swapping. I was nervous because so many people said the Leopold was hard to desolder and this was my first time soldering any thing. But it all went really well, so I wanted to share in case any one else is thinking about it plus some info that might be useful to you veterans as well.

One part of keyboard customization I don't see addressed much is deadening the ping and case sound. Some people add foam to the bottom, but I found going between the PCB and Plate reduces sound a LOT. This baby is stuffed like a turkey and sounds amazing.

I've also seen a lot of people saying how great the Engineer solder sucker is. While the build quality is nice I'm not sure its worth $25, and most of the performance was because of the silicon tip. So I just added one to a cheap sucker and it worked great. I was worried about the temp as it says it isn't rated up to 350c but it worked great with barely any discoloring, and for like $1 you get 3ft so it basically lasts forever.

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Links -

Neoprene $12 1/8" - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001FVG3CM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Soldering Station $37 - https://www.aliexpress.com/item/STM32-T12-Soldering-Station-Electronic-Soldering-iron-OLED-1-3-Digital-station-solder-iron-tip-welding/32994824865.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.7ba64c4dVrNrn3

Solder Sucker $5 - https://www.banggood.com/Sucking-Vacuum-Desoldering-Pump-Solder-Sucker-Remover-Tool-p-932434.html?rmmds=myorder&cur_warehouse=CN

Silicon Tube 5x7mm $1 - https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1-Meter-Food-Grade-Transparent-Silicone-Rubber-Hose-2-3-4-5-6-7-8-10/32986897358.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.7ba64c4dVrNrn3

DSA Caps $35 - https://www.aliexpress.com/item/dsa-profile-Dye-Sub-Keycap-Set-PBT-plastic-retro-beige-for-mechanical-keyboard-beige-grey-cyan/32965815374.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.7ba64c4dVrNrn3

Super Lube $5 - https://www.amazon.com/Super-Lube-21030-Synthetic-Grease/dp/B000XBH9HI/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=super+lube&qid=1556304495&s=gateway&sr=8-5

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I realized I really don't like the DSA keycap profile but this was a really nice set, pretty thick and great dye sub printing, way more crisp than my Enjoy PBT Cherry profile set I've been using.

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I didn't have any lifted pads or issues at all despite me being a total noob. Using a 2.4mm chisel tip and my solder sucker combo worked really well. Just stuck the flat tip on flat side (top/bottom) of the soldered stem, let it heat up for about 5-6 seconds and then sucked. At 350c on my soldering Iron most guides said this was too long but i didn't have any issues, and going quicker left a lot of residue.

Also with the silicon tip I didn't have to move the soldering tip and place the sucker over the stem (doing this fast before the solder cools down is a pita) because of the silicon I just pressed it on top with the soldering iron still heating and sucked all at once. DEFINITELY worth the $1, made the process so much easier.

I also used Super Lube for all my lubing. This is what a lot of people use for the stabilizers as its really thick but then use expensive stuff for the switches. I just used a very small amount (scrape your brush off and then wipe it on so you can barely see it but its shiny). Worked great, no ping from the springs and very smooth and a $5 tube will last forever.

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I want to do another now! need to decide on what type of switches I might like more than these super light 35g box reds. Maybe some speed switches? And I'll want to do a good solid metal case.

Overall I'm just super happy the whole thing worked without any problems. I get to use my really good Leopold plate/base/pcb (i really like the led under caps/num lock to let you know its on) with switches I like more!

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If any one has any questions or needs help doing their first switch swap let me know, I'm 1 for 1 haha.

I'm no pro, but here's my suggstion.

Marking and measuring are important. Get a knife of some sort. This marking knife is cheap and well regarded. Get a combination square (lot available at all sorts of price points). For a longer straight edge, you can use extruded aluminum or angle aluminum which is cheap, lightweight, and straight enough. Then learn to create a knife edge and a handsaw (either western push style, or japanese pull style) and you can cut wood accurately to size.

You're planes will then get you to flatten and surface your boards (you can use the aluminum as winding sticks). Lots of resources available for rehabbing planes. Then the next step is joints. For this, chisels and a comfortable mallet are great (and a rabbet plane if you can find/afford one). To make life easier, a coping saw and a drill (electric or brace and bit) can clear out waste for you. It makes life easier. But the key here is keeping your planes and chisels sharp. I don't know of a budget way to do this. I've got a few Ezelap diamond stones (coarse, fine and extra fine) that I use, but there are other methods as well (sandpaper on glass, waterstones, oil stones, tormeks). But sharpening is critical to handtool woodworking happiness. You might want a sharpening guide as well. The cheap ones work great (I'm not sure why these are so expensive. I think I paid $8 for mine). Then build one of these and you're all set for sharpening. Finally, you need stuff to stick together, so glue and glue applicators are worth looking into. I also use my cabinet scrapers quite a bit, but that's just me. They're cheap so I think everyone should have one.

After that, you can spend all sorts of money on other stuff as you progress. But most anything square can be built with this setup.

I think kydex might be a good choice. It is pretty cheap, and also heat moldable. Just make sure to check the thickness of the sheets before you buy. If they are too thick, they won't be very flexible. The .060 inch thickness is pretty stiff, but still bendable by hand. You can pop it in the oven and then lay it on a cylindrical object to achieve the desired curve, and then use a heat gun (or a candle, if you're feeling cheap) if you want a more custom fit.

https://www.amazon.com/Kydex-Plastic-Sheets-Black-0-060/dp/B00HAS1VSK/ref=sr_1_4?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1495674072&sr=1-4&keywords=kydex

Otherwise, I have also had luck with those flexible plastic cutting boards, like these:

https://www.amazon.com/Flexible-Plastic-Cutting-Colorful-Kitchen/dp/B01HN7ZGUQ/ref=sr_1_2?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1495674423&sr=1-2&keywords=flexible+cutting+boards

They are pretty good for making crud-catcher type fenders, with liberal use of zip-ties, of course.

Good luck!

I checked all links but unfortunately, no :(

The Soft Charcoal one is almost the same as the packaging foam stuff. It's harder to see on your link but on the edges you can see you can kinda look through it, that's just feather light stuff like this https://www.casesbysource.com/product/soft-charcoal-ester-pick-and-pluck-foam-2-pack-fs04

And this link you gave me: https://www.amazon.com/Closed-Sponge-Rubber-Acoustical-Sheet/dp/B00YV43UZS this foam is something completely different, it's this type of foam you find in sofas or cheap chairs \^\^

The thing with the neoprene could actually be it but I think only as a tiny tiny blend type and I actually found something which has neoprene, SBR and a closed cell foam mixed together and on the first picture.. again(-.-) it looks quite like my pad. God dammit haha http://www.rubbercal.com/closed-cell-rubber-blend.html But their sizes and prices are also obnoxious. The thing is my pad can't be pure neoprene or be a high neoprene base because my pad as I tried to clean it with water (after almost 10 years I fucked it up with a shake .....) it soak the water a tiny bit but still felt like a plastic-like foam type (a bit like my EVA mat) with a bit rubber in it. so I guess it's also not fully closed cell that is even can soak water even tho it feels like that. Just picking something blind on the internet because of a picture where the foam looks pretty much like my pad is too randoms >.> I wish I had a shop near me that just have all sorts of foam and where I could bring my pad and ask some professionals what exactly it is lol

Edit: I did wet a corner of this violet EVA I have at home and surprisingly it soaks the water, feels and sounds exactly the same as my pad, a bit squeaky, like plastic when wet, when I rub on it with a finger.. I'm pretty sure now my pad has to be like a 80-90%+ EVA base!! The surface and maybe density is just a bit different. I think I'll search some different EVA mats up and try some

Parts list (Part 2) from the imgur post:

>- 1x Coleman 6' 3-Prong Power Cable: $6 . 97 shipped with Prime (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001OOMN88/)
>
>This cable is advertised as a replacement cable for power tools but it's been working fine to power the Mean Well power supply. 14AWG stranded wire rated to 1875W.
>
>- 1x 6-Pack 1m Litever Deep Square Trimless Aluminum Channels (LL-007-A): $49 . 99 shipped on Amazon (https://www.amazon.com/Litever-Aluminum-Channels-Trimless-Mounting/dp/B01IY1L2B2)
>
>Solid channels overall, the white diffuser does a pretty good job of diffusing the hotspots from the individual LEDs. If I wanted a more perfect line of light, I would've gone with something a deeper than these but they are 15 . 5mm tall and the lip on my cabinets is .75" (19 . 05mm) so anything much larger and it would've stuck out which I wasn't looking to do.
>
>- 1x 50' roll of Southwire 18/7 thermostat wire: $26 . 12+tax at Home Depot (https://www.homedepot.com/p/Southwire-50-ft-18-7-Brown-Solid-CU-CL2-Thermostat-Wire-64170422/205717551)
>
>I don't really recommend going this route, it caused more of a headache than it was worth. Basically, I'd received all of the other parts and then realized the only wire I had lying around was 24awg so I went out to see what I could get locally. Solid core wire has its pros and cons but I learned pretty quickly that soldering it directly to the LED strips wasn't going to be a viable option because the solid core wire was so rigid that when I bent it, it'd rip the LED strip more often than not. I'd advise sticking with 18awg if you're planning on doing an amplified run like this but stranded wire will make your life a lot easier. That said, it worked and I'm not planning on changing it.
>
>- 1x Gardner Bender 22-10 AWG 6-Circuit Terminal Block: $6 . 28+tax at Home Depot (https://www.homedepot.com/p/Gardner-Bender-22-10-AWG-6-Circuit-Terminal-Block-1-Pack-GTB-406/202522482)
>
>Literally everything else in this setup is soldered, I'm not a fan of using connectors when I don't have to but for modularity's sake, I used a terminal block for the 3 sections of under cabinet strips. It was cheap, quick and I bought it when I got the thermostat wire.
>
>- 3x Gardner Bender 1/2" Plastic Kwik Clip, White (4-Pack): $3 . 28+tax for each 4-Pack at Home Depot (https://www.homedepot.com/p/Gardner-Bender-1-2-in-Plastic-Kwik-Clip-White-4-Pack-GKK-1550/100090966)
>
>Used for cable management, they work fine. Probably could've gone with something a bit more professional but I wasn't trying to make this project any more expensive than it already was.
>
>- 1x Scotch 1" x 1 . 66 yards Extremely Strong Mounting Tape: $7 . 98+tax at Home Depot (https://www.homedepot.com/p/3M-Scotch-1-in-x-1-66-yds-Permanent-Double-Sided-Extreme-Mounting-Tape-414DC-SF/203405976)
>
>I probably used 2/3 of the roll. None of the aluminum channels where particularly heavy so I just placed a 2" piece every 6 inches or so. Holding up great so far. I could've used the mounting gear that came with the channels for the cabinets but I didn't want to make any permanent holes and I knew that I'd need something like this for under the granite countertop on the island anyway.
>
>
>
>Total cost for everything listed above was roughly $495 including tax and shipping.
>
>
>
>Stuff I had lying around:
>
>- Assorted sizes of heat shrink tubing
>
>- Assorted sizes of ring terminals
>
>- Solder
>
>- Hot glue
>
>- Electrical tape
>
>- Zip ties
>
>- Rubbing alcohol (to prep surfaces for the adhesives)
>
>- Hue Dimmer Switch

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This Zombie Plant is pretty awesome. Galluim has an extremely low melting point for a metal and will turn to liquid in your hand! This Stegosaurus Skeleton plush is one of my favorites. I love stegosauruses and skeletons and plushes, so its a godly combination. Hopefully you're a dinosaur fan!

Ok, True, Yea i saw tons of pure rubber ones but they are not it. I'm gonna link some for you to look through :), Hope this helps!

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Large-Foam-Sheets-27-x-38-x-1-4-CHARCOAL-GRAY-/132119812051

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1x-Recycled-foam-packing-block-shipping-gray-medium-high-density-5-5x12-thick-1-/302046943784

https://www.casesbysource.com/product/soft-charcoal-ester-foam-sheet-2lb-dens-fspu

https://www.amazon.com/Closed-Sponge-Rubber-Acoustical-Sheet/dp/B00YV43UZS

https://www.mscdirect.com/product/details/31943210

https://www.mscdirect.com/product/details/31939564

https://www.mscdirect.com/product/details/31939655

Some of these seem too small but i think some of these might be it, I think the MScDirect ones seem like they could be close, Thanks for that picture, I'm pretty sure this is the closest

https://www.mscdirect.com/product/details/31943210

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For the plexiglass, I think you can get something like this:

http://www.homedepot.com/p/OPTIX-24-in-x-48-in-x-093-in-Acrylic-Sheet-MC-13/202038048

or this:

https://www.amazon.com/Acrylic-Plexiglass-Plastic-Sheet-24/dp/B00C13ZSBA

Honestly, I just walked into a Home Depot and asked for a big sheet of plexiglass. It was about $25. Someone above suggested that Hobby Lobby may be cheaper.

Here's the battlemat:

https://www.amazon.com/Chessex-Role-Playing-Play-Mat/dp/B0015IQO2O

Grab some whiteboard markers, and the whole thing will run you about $50. But honestly, I've used this same setup for 4 years and it's been great.

A few thoughts:

• The plexiglass doubles as a great protective surface for whatever table you're playing on. We've been saved from many spills because of it!
  
• The plexiglass is a little heavy and cumbersome. My group meets at a different place every week, and it's a little annoying having to carry around everywhere. It's great if you have a dedicated gaming room, though.
  
• The plexiglass can get dirty, but I never notice while playing. Just wipe it down with windex every now and then.
  
• Get colored markers! It's so nice being able to track hp in red ink right next to minis as they move around the map, and my players love drawing out possible tactics/formations, etc.
  

I don't know what it's primarily used for, but it's a metal that melts at just above room temperature. You can play with a solid piece in your hands and it will melt into a puddle in seconds, it's also non-toxic (to touch at least) and you can buy it online. It will also eat through certain kinds of other metals like aluminum, if you put some on a can of soda for a while it'll go right through it. It's an interesting metal for sure.

Sure!

Basically, you need a few things: kydex sheet, heat gun (or oven, if you wanna do this at home), thermofoam, some wooden planks and G-clamps, hacksaw (Dremel would be better), eyelet (make sure you have the correct length and size) and eyelet setter, and teklok (belt attachment).

First, you wanna cut the kydex into the size that you want to use. I used taco style, so I wanna make sure the sheet can hug my knife.

Then you heat up the kydex sheet with the heat gun (or oven) until it becomes soft. Put the knife between the kydex sheet taco style. Press it hard with the thermofoam. Sandwich the thermofoam with wood planks and secure it with the G-clamps. After a few minutes, the kydex will cool down and you will have a roughly shaped sheath.

Draw outline on the sheath with pencil based on how you want the sheath to look like. Trim the sheath to size using hacksaw (or Dremel). Give about an inch slack from the blade area of the sheath.

Drill some holes on the sheath. I used 1/4" drill bit since I am using 1/4" eyelet. I also made sure that the holes are aligned with teklok holes, so I can attach the teklok using those holes (I messed this part up). Set the eyelet on those holes.

You are basically done here. You could use some sandpaper (or Dremel with sanding attachment) to smooth the edges of your sheath.

Hope this helps. There are many different guides out there, if you find mine confusing.

Cheers.

Chessex dice clear cases can be combined to make a 3-inch high riser, marking a 15 foot height. These are really easy to come by in most groups.

Clear acrylic rods and clear 1.5 inch bases can be obtained from Amazon for pretty cheap. Superglue, and you've got some flight risers. Highly recommend if your whole party will be using them throughout the campaign.

Awesome. Thanks. I'm pretty motivated. You think felt is the way to go? Or something like this?

Hopefully your classroom is pretty spacious so you can get some distance from everybody. Even with silent switches, a stock Anne Pro will be pretty noticeable in a classroom. You could pop the case open and put some foam in there which would get it quieter.

Regardless, Anne Pros are a great entry board even if you don't end up using them in class!

I personally did this research recently and opted out of RGB and for high CRI strips that are very bright but very dimmable. Total cost was not as cheap as I had originally expected, but the end concept seems like it will come together well. Here's my equipment list (though in my case i've purchased multiple strips):

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|16.5 ft 95 CRI Warm LED Strip|$99.00|https://store.waveformlighting.com/products/ultra-high-95-cri-led-strip-lights-for-home-residential?variant=5776159014941 |
|:-|:-|:-|
|24V 10A Power Supply|$19.99|https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B078RYWZMH/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=AA0YO4F2UD50F&psc=1 |
|20 pack 3.3 ft Alu Channel|$46.90|https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B072VZSQ3P/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?smid=AN8BOPYGQ9JVK&psc=1 |
|Shelly RGBW 2 Controller|$21.99|https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07N49TXLQ/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_1?smid=AFXZFGKJMX9E4&psc=1 |

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This allows me to control four separate white strips with on/off and dimming capabilities but does not accommodate for a physical switch, though it easily could be incorporated into this setup.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071FRFQVZ

I have 50 meters of this under the soffit on my house. It’s not a good choice for that much because wiring entry points don’t exist, but would be a lot better for indoors. It’s pretty small. Just barely fits the width of 10-12mm LED tape. Check the list of sponsored related products for other designs, including a really nice looking corner piece under the muzata brand.

Questions about liner material and lube...

For liner material, what acoustic differences am I going to find between: neoprene, sorborthane, and rather generic looking "foam" rolls? They're all pretty much the same thickness, about 2-3 mm.

For lube, I'm looking at: Permatex dielectric grease, krytox 205 grade 2, trybosis 3204 and trybosis 3203. What would be good for stabs, what would be good for linears, and what would be good for tactiles? And if possible, is there anything that's a good "all-arounder"? Aka, something that could easily work for both stabs and switches.

If you don't mind going the DIY route, you could probably come in under $100 for parts for the strips:

• LED Strips - https://www.amazon.com/SUPERNIGHT-16-4ft-300leds-Waterproof-Flexible/dp/B00KYKEUXO/
  
• Power Supply - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073QTNF9F/
  
• Wifi controller - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01DY56N8U/
  
• Extension cable - https://www.amazon.com/LEDENET-Extension-Cable-Color-ribbon/dp/B00J4HI746/
  
• Snap-on Connectors - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01CNYZ0NW/
  
• Channel for mounting - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LL2SLME/
  
  Instead of the flat channel, you might be better off with angled channel for mounting the strips above the cabinets, since they'll throw more light on the wall, which is what you'll actually see - https://www.amazon.com/LEDwholesalers-Aluminum-Mounting-Installations-1901-V/dp/B00PJSSD7K/
  
  There's a ZWave RGBW controller but it's more expensive than the wifi one and can take some more configuration: https://www.amazon.com/Fibaro-Micro-Controller-Z-wave-Strips/dp/B00P1N68FW/
  
  If you get the snap-on connectors, I recommend putting a small amount of solder on all of the pads where you'll be connecting them on the strips, so that they make a good connection.
  
  As for the puck lights, you could probably get something like this and wire the distributor to the wifi/ZWave controller, instead of plugging it into the controller it comes with: https://www.amazon.com/Changing-Christmas-Furniture-Ambiance-Lighting/dp/B01N2I47VH/ref=sr_1_2

If you want to bring her back to life you can repair the frame pretty good with a mesh reinforcement and some epoxy on both sides.

You can also use duck tape and super glue.

Easy enough, you mentioned that it is going on a project box.



You could either cut out the entire shape from the box, use that as a template on some translucent acrylic sheet and cut that. Do the same for the inner piece.

The only issue I see with this option is that the cuts need to be precise, in order to line up nicely. Something like Bondo could fill the gaps, if you get any.

The other option still uses the acrylic piece, but places it on top of the project box. Holes or gaps would have to be cut/drilled into the project box, beneath the acrylic.



This should be the easier of the two options. The downside here is that depending on how you place the gaps, there could be hot spots of light.

The first option provides a flush transition from box to shape, while the second has it tacked to the top. Both are viable, it just depends how much work you want to throw at it.

Something like this for the acrylic The light blue one looks close to what you have for the colour.

Still can't be sure it's exactly what I ordered, but this is a start in the right direction I found with Google
I'm searching fuckcombustion for info, but I'm sure any fine screen would be perfect.

I cover my battle mats with these clear plastic sheets, much like acrylic glass. I usually use wet erase markers, though sometimes dry erase. I have had zero trouble with staining since I started using these, even when using red (which tends to stain) and leaving the markings on for weeks.

Apart from preserving your grid, this allows some interesting techniques. You can overlay one sheet upon another, for instance, creating layers. You can also draw on both sides of a sheet, so that you can quickly erase and re-draw things on the top while preserving the markings on the bottom.

Credit where it's due: I got this from Seth Skorkowsky, who is quite the font of good ideas.

This is what I used. Score with a razor and straight edge and snap. Glued a piece the size of the SX350 in with some clear epoxy and stuck the chip on top of that. Careful of using too much glue. mine bled a little into the visible area. The only thing I wish I did was get some one way mirrored film to cover the plex with to make it look nicer.

Most people use plexiglas or something like this:https://www.amazon.com/Icona-Bay-Replacement-Material-Shattering/dp/B01N7MLF3D

Or you could just buy a cheap 36x24 poster frame and use the plastic protector from it but in my experience those are pretty easy to crack/shatter at the edges so cutting it down would be hard.

This is actually a great suggestion, and I would add that you can use drawer liner (ANY on amazon will do, I literally picked the first link in a google search as an example: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01G44LUKO/ref=s9_acsd_newrz_hd_bw_bFi2V_c_x_w) as a relatively cheap and easy way to get a lot of thin foam to put in boards. Obviously you want ones that are less static-y if possible and that's harder to suss out from the descriptions but you should be able to find something.

Piggy-backing on the other comments about pinging being the result of hitting the top of the housing on the way up (clacking), there are ways to silence it, such as using Zealencios and any cherry-profile keyset. In fact, the keyset itself can affect the sound as well.

That looks great!

I'd recommend adding some type of dense foam rubber padding between the speaker and the stand. Like this neoprene pad:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CJFQ6F9/ref=sspa_dk_detail_4?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B07CJFQ6F9

Just cut it to the right proportions.

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It's unavailable, https://www.amazon.fr/gp/product/B010QBL740/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

And if you're in the states, good luck on Amazon, I couldn't find the exact same thing and the names are crazy, chanel, channeling, u shape, profile, track, like, jesus christ make your mind up people.

https://www.amazon.com/3-3FT-Aluminum-Channel-Track-installation/dp/B01MPWVE3E/ref=sr_1_91?ie=UTF8&qid=1519837459&sr=8-91&keywords=aluminum+led+channel

https://www.amazon.com/Litever-Aluminum-Channels-Trimless-Mounting/dp/B01IY1L2B2/ref=sr_1_174_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1519837521&sr=8-174-spons&keywords=aluminum+led+channel&psc=1

That's what I'd aim for, you want depth.

I'm just gonna have to start recommend this to everyone with LEDs lining their ceiling. LED TRACK WITH DIFFUSER
It improves the look by 4000% at least, and is much easier on the eyes than bare diodes.

It looks like a piece of gray acrylic. Acrylic gives that lovely reflection on jewelry. I actually use a white piece of acrylic for my photos. You can order it in different colors on Amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/Cast-Acrylic-Sheet-Transparent-0-118/dp/B00JB7FEEU

Clear acrylic rods (these) and blue/green sharpie.

Edit: and actually my go to for lightsabers is fishing line, far less prone to breaking and thin like OG/Rebels sabers. Prequel sabres are nice and chonky though.

I have used the RGB led strips that you linked to. I currently have them under my cabinets. They have been there for over a year now and working just fine. I will make one suggestion if you are going this route. The double sided tape that is on these led strips do not hold up well. I would recommend using these housings just to make it look more professional and not worry about the double sided tape giving out.
Led Strip channel

Repost - original taken down due to URL shorteners

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Keycaps: Dye-sub PBT keycaps

Lube: Krytox 205g0

Switches: Milky Gateron Yellows with TX Film

Stabilizers: Plate-mount GMK stabilizers (clipped and lubed with 205g0)

Sound dampening: Neoprene

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Filmed and recorded using a Galaxy S10 in 4k

If you ever find yourself at a craft or hobby store try looking for some 1/8” EVA foam sheets like these to use as padded dividers between consoles. Works wonders :)

Well, 3m velcro is what I have used. If thats not working then you need to try something else.
Is it purely attached with velcro? No screws?

I use dense black neoprene foam simular to this [Neoprene ](Sponge Neoprene 1/8" Thick X 54" Wide X 1' https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001FVG3CM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Gz1BCbGD9JT3C) with double back tape on both sides. I have thicker stuff but it was free from work. I use a pwm ddc pump so it only ramps to max speed when the fans are also ramped up.

If you are using a d5 vario, does turning down to 2-3 quiet it down?

If there's no software solution, maybe cutting, taping or sanding the edges so its safer, and taping a small thin piece of plexiglass, lexan, or something transparent on the switch screen would work.

https://www.amazon.com/Lexan-Sheet-Polycarbonate-Thick-Nominal/dp/B00520AR9C

It just needs to be thick enough so the capacitance is not picked up.

If you don't want to tape it to the switch itself, maybe attaching it to a case like this might be more palatable.

https://www.amazon.com/Compatible-Nintendo-Multi-Functional-3-Angle-Protective-Protect/dp/B06XBRF7N4

Though there are tape that won't leave residue.

Unlike an iPad or iPhone or something, you won't lose any functionality doing this as the touch screen is optional and the switch is fully accessible from the controller since it needs to be usable if only in a TV.

Thanks! Acoustically, I think the Hyperspheres made the biggest difference. I went with a really inexpensive liner ($10) so it was worth doing it. No ping whatsoever. I did two layers as the liner I purchased is a bit thin. Doing it again, I would've gone with something a little thicker like this.

Something that might help is vibration pads like these. They are real cheap and putting some under my speakers and turntable helped with the sound a lot.

Shops specializing in model trains will usually have a Plastruct or Evergreen plastic display. That would be the best way to buy just enough for this project. You can buy way more of them than you'll need on Amazon though.

You can cut acrylic sheets easily with a circular saw, band saw, table saw, etc. The edges do not have to be perfect since it will be hidden in the frame.

http://www.amazon.com/Acrylic-Plexiglass-Plastic-Sheet-24/dp/B00C13ZSBA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1462206658&sr=8-1&keywords=acrylic+24x36

Edit: depending on your frame, 1/4" might be too thick. I believe it is common to use 1/8" for framing.

I used https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07HRHDV1T/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 for strips, https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071FRFQVZ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1 for light diffusion, and the board is just a piece of large plywood I cut a little larger than the star pattern and painted black with two layers of spray paint. I applied polyurethane sealer on top to give it a clean finish. It has a wire on the back so I can move it around the house.

I did self adhesive led strips mounted to 1/4" aluminum angle stock. I screwed the aluminum stock to the face frame under the cabinets and oriented it so the led strips were facing the wall and one side of the angle stock was facing towards the countertop.

I used a dimmable 12vdc power supply and put it on a standard 120vac dimmer switch. The aluminum acts as a heat sink and when you look down at the glossy counter top, you can't see the leds. Worked pretty well.

I ordered this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0006O6QXU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

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Enough to do way more lightsabers than I'll ever need. Just trimmed it to size, filed the end to be rounded, and then colored with a red sharpie. Once dry I sealed it with gloss varnish. I recommend attaching the blade before coloring with sharpie so you don't smudge it with fingerprints.

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I also picked up a neon green, blue, and yellow sharpie... Plenty of blade colors.

To add onto what /u/breda076 said, if you wanted to reinforce it then getting something like a piece of polycarbonate and gluing it (or you could fiberglass it into the wing if you want to get fancy) onto the bottom of the spoiler should suffice.

Various sizes of these acrylic rods http://www.amazon.com/Plastruct-Ar-2h-Clear-Rod-Pls90291/dp/B0006O6QXU/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1451920752&sr=8-3&keywords=acrylic+rod#customerReviews molded to shape by heating them, then painting with clear paint may yield the effect you are looking for.

I think im going to buy some cellular/sponge neoprene... like this... https://www.amazon.com/Sponge-Neoprene-Thick-54-Wide/dp/B001FVG3CM

http://www.amazon.com/Plastruct-AR-4H-Clear-Rod-PLS90292/dp/B0006O6QYO

they have diff sizes, these are the 1/8 in ones. will fit in a hg stand hole with a lil sanding.

Used this stuff to line the drawers. It's good as a liner and not much else haha

These(or similar) with this over it! Make it flush with the ceiling on one side or all sides of the room. You could also get a flat version of that to put along floorboards in hallways, and all you'd need to keep it up is some small screws. That's all I can do to help!

Either that of you could just find some paper lantern covers for your lights and put them on each bulb.

To make this easier in a practical way, you could roll your dice into something like a 90 degree piece of aluminum (like this).

Once the dice are settled, you can always see which two numbers you got. It also makes it easier if orientation doesn't matter, which gives you 12 possibilities instead of 24.

Edit: One disadvantage I see with this strategy is that you can't use the values of the faces as numbers. Getting 1,4 and 2,3 are both possible. So you'd have to assign numbers to each combination (e.g. 1,2 = 0; 1,3 = 1; etc.)

I took the feet off my Prusa and set the entire frame on strips of this

Dampens vibrations, very quiet, unsure if it improved my prints

yup, here's some basically, measure, cut, and use a riser glued to the back of the network card, or if the network card has riser slots, attach risers to those.

Cut with a hacksaw, make sure it's a bit too large (a mm or two, not too much), sand the edges with fine sandpaper down to size.

Pro tip, if it has a plastic covering on it (most do), LEAVE THAT ON UNTIL AFTER you sand the edges... makes sure the faces don't get scratched

AmazonSmile Link: Cast Acrylic Sheet, Translucent Black, 12" x 12" x 0.118" Size

^Use AmazonSmile to donate 0.5% of your purchase price to a charity of your choice at no extra cost to you.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071FRFQVZ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_ZxODDbZQFCMN8

Are these the plastruct acrylic rods you're looking for?

http://www.amazon.com/Plastruct-Ar-2h-Clear-Rod-Pls90291/dp/B0006O6QXU/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1420864369&sr=8-2&keywords=plastruct+acrylic+rod

Gallium

I use two methods for displaying planes in flight:

1. Acrylic rodin a wood or acrylic base. I get acrylic sheet at the hardware store and wooden bases at the art store.
   
   
2. Airfix stands
   

XCEL Neoprene Sheet Tool Box... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01G44LUKO?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

I bought this and cut it to size

There are holders (LED Channel) meant for holding LED strips. You can get flat or angled holders.

https://www.amazon.com/hunhun-Aluminum-Mounting-Installations-Installation/dp/B071FRFQVZ/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?

Doesn't Sorbothane contain plasticizer that can damage plastics? I use it in all my metal keyboards but avoid any contact with plastics. Am I being over worried?

I use neoprene sponge foam rubber for my spacebars and it works great.

> Gallium

Now I kind of want to buy some. I expected it to be irrationally expensive, but it's not.

https://www.amazon.com/Gallium-99-99-Grams-Melting-Point/dp/B00F3IXF9M

I've used https://www.foambymail.com and was decent. I got a few feet off a roll which would more than do you for that job, but shipping might be killer since you only need a little. Whatever you do go 1/8" thick, you can always double up but you can't cut that stuff in half!

This on amazon might do what you need as well: Neoprene 1/8"