Ahh, I’m picking up what you’re putting down now. I’m finding out this is the kind of thing where you could spend a fortune, or try to stay within a regular working persons budget. Being the latter myself I have to figure out what I’m going to spend money on each paycheck. The re-key-able feature is nice, and as far as making your own pins I was directed here. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07H1C4888?utm_source=share&utm_medium=ios_app
Other than American and Master lock which use a smaller pin you can make your own pins with this. I haven’t tried it yet, as I’ve just gotten my Dremel, but plan on making challenge locks, etc...

So far I’ve favored padlocks, but I’d like to get into all aspects of locksport, sadly though I’m not independently wealthy, so I have just figured out what I can afford, and what I have access to. I’ve been disassembling, and reassembling padlocks for a few days now, and its fantastic! Very rewarding, but also very detailed work. Almost like watchmaking, but less parts.

Thank you for the heads up on the 302/304 steel! I’m a noob as well, but would like to start making my own picks, etc... I was very impressed with yours, and am curious what bits, or tools were all involved in your process? I’m sure there’s more than one way to skin a cat, as it were, but I like hearing about everyone’s preferences until I find my own. But when it comes time for the belt challenge to make your own tools you’re gonna have it in the bag, my friend!!

Lastly, I am ready for my green belt, but am having issues with the whole video aspect of the challenge. Either bribing a friend to record me on my phone, or finding an apparatus to hold it in place seem like my best options at the moment. I’m not completely tech savvy, but I do know a bit about things. Anyway, curious if you’ve figured out how you’re going to do video for green belt, and forward. I’m thinking about investing in a cheapo digital cam, or seeing if a family member has an old one I can “borrow” ;)

Edit: forgot to ask, did you buy blanks from Peterson’s, or are you using hacksaw blades? Or something altogether different?

I'm no pro, but here's my suggstion.

Marking and measuring are important. Get a knife of some sort. This marking knife is cheap and well regarded. Get a combination square (lot available at all sorts of price points). For a longer straight edge, you can use extruded aluminum or angle aluminum which is cheap, lightweight, and straight enough. Then learn to create a knife edge and a handsaw (either western push style, or japanese pull style) and you can cut wood accurately to size.

You're planes will then get you to flatten and surface your boards (you can use the aluminum as winding sticks). Lots of resources available for rehabbing planes. Then the next step is joints. For this, chisels and a comfortable mallet are great (and a rabbet plane if you can find/afford one). To make life easier, a coping saw and a drill (electric or brace and bit) can clear out waste for you. It makes life easier. But the key here is keeping your planes and chisels sharp. I don't know of a budget way to do this. I've got a few Ezelap diamond stones (coarse, fine and extra fine) that I use, but there are other methods as well (sandpaper on glass, waterstones, oil stones, tormeks). But sharpening is critical to handtool woodworking happiness. You might want a sharpening guide as well. The cheap ones work great (I'm not sure why these are so expensive. I think I paid $8 for mine). Then build one of these and you're all set for sharpening. Finally, you need stuff to stick together, so glue and glue applicators are worth looking into. I also use my cabinet scrapers quite a bit, but that's just me. They're cheap so I think everyone should have one.

After that, you can spend all sorts of money on other stuff as you progress. But most anything square can be built with this setup.

Here are a few suggestions:

1. Instead of holding your dremel by hand, toss it into your hobby vise. This gives you greater control over how much material you remove and where.
   
   
2. Using the utility blade to give you a starting point to make a transition is a good idea, but it isn't easy to get a positive grip on the spinning brass. It can and does slip. A razor saw is ideal for this and you can make some nice serrations with it too.
   
   
3. I too have experienced running out of room on the pin because it is too close to the chuck. When you are that close, you can only make an outward bevel because the second you try to tip it in, you start filing down the chuck instead. Using old pins is a great way to level up on your technique. You can pick up some brass rod stock and cut each one into 3rds and backup the rod into the dremel as far as it goes and that will stabilize the brass and give you plenty of material to pull out and away from the chuck.
   
   
4. The quick change dremel chuck works great when you have a bunch of different sized bits to change out. However, on brass it tends to leave unwanted dents with the three prongs. The dremel collet set will not leave those marks. It is a cheap set and it is made from aluminum but I haven't had one break on me yet.
   
   I love, Love, LOVE jewelry files for shaping my pins! You can futz around with the different shapes to get some cool transitions. To polish off my pins and when I want to remove burrs from the final shapes, I cut my sandpaper into strips and glued it onto a popsicle stick. This lets me get up in there and also works great when you just need to remove a little more material. You can also wrap a little of the sandpaper over the edge and use that outside corner to push into the brass to make a tight inside corner on the brass. Here is a preview of some of the evil.

Parts list (Part 2) from the imgur post:

>- 1x Coleman 6' 3-Prong Power Cable: $6 . 97 shipped with Prime (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001OOMN88/)
>
>This cable is advertised as a replacement cable for power tools but it's been working fine to power the Mean Well power supply. 14AWG stranded wire rated to 1875W.
>
>- 1x 6-Pack 1m Litever Deep Square Trimless Aluminum Channels (LL-007-A): $49 . 99 shipped on Amazon (https://www.amazon.com/Litever-Aluminum-Channels-Trimless-Mounting/dp/B01IY1L2B2)
>
>Solid channels overall, the white diffuser does a pretty good job of diffusing the hotspots from the individual LEDs. If I wanted a more perfect line of light, I would've gone with something a deeper than these but they are 15 . 5mm tall and the lip on my cabinets is .75" (19 . 05mm) so anything much larger and it would've stuck out which I wasn't looking to do.
>
>- 1x 50' roll of Southwire 18/7 thermostat wire: $26 . 12+tax at Home Depot (https://www.homedepot.com/p/Southwire-50-ft-18-7-Brown-Solid-CU-CL2-Thermostat-Wire-64170422/205717551)
>
>I don't really recommend going this route, it caused more of a headache than it was worth. Basically, I'd received all of the other parts and then realized the only wire I had lying around was 24awg so I went out to see what I could get locally. Solid core wire has its pros and cons but I learned pretty quickly that soldering it directly to the LED strips wasn't going to be a viable option because the solid core wire was so rigid that when I bent it, it'd rip the LED strip more often than not. I'd advise sticking with 18awg if you're planning on doing an amplified run like this but stranded wire will make your life a lot easier. That said, it worked and I'm not planning on changing it.
>
>- 1x Gardner Bender 22-10 AWG 6-Circuit Terminal Block: $6 . 28+tax at Home Depot (https://www.homedepot.com/p/Gardner-Bender-22-10-AWG-6-Circuit-Terminal-Block-1-Pack-GTB-406/202522482)
>
>Literally everything else in this setup is soldered, I'm not a fan of using connectors when I don't have to but for modularity's sake, I used a terminal block for the 3 sections of under cabinet strips. It was cheap, quick and I bought it when I got the thermostat wire.
>
>- 3x Gardner Bender 1/2" Plastic Kwik Clip, White (4-Pack): $3 . 28+tax for each 4-Pack at Home Depot (https://www.homedepot.com/p/Gardner-Bender-1-2-in-Plastic-Kwik-Clip-White-4-Pack-GKK-1550/100090966)
>
>Used for cable management, they work fine. Probably could've gone with something a bit more professional but I wasn't trying to make this project any more expensive than it already was.
>
>- 1x Scotch 1" x 1 . 66 yards Extremely Strong Mounting Tape: $7 . 98+tax at Home Depot (https://www.homedepot.com/p/3M-Scotch-1-in-x-1-66-yds-Permanent-Double-Sided-Extreme-Mounting-Tape-414DC-SF/203405976)
>
>I probably used 2/3 of the roll. None of the aluminum channels where particularly heavy so I just placed a 2" piece every 6 inches or so. Holding up great so far. I could've used the mounting gear that came with the channels for the cabinets but I didn't want to make any permanent holes and I knew that I'd need something like this for under the granite countertop on the island anyway.
>
>
>
>Total cost for everything listed above was roughly $495 including tax and shipping.
>
>
>
>Stuff I had lying around:
>
>- Assorted sizes of heat shrink tubing
>
>- Assorted sizes of ring terminals
>
>- Solder
>
>- Hot glue
>
>- Electrical tape
>
>- Zip ties
>
>- Rubbing alcohol (to prep surfaces for the adhesives)
>
>- Hue Dimmer Switch

​

Comments:

Go for it and good luck.

Advice:

Start small. Don't try to make a giant bowie to begin with. You will learn a lot on your first knife, and the result probably won't be exactly what you expect. As you learn, you can then go bigger, but start with something manageable. Do a knife about 8 inches in total length or so.

Google 'aaron gough youtube'. I don't know what video you watched, but I have seen a ton about using rebar and similar, which really doesn't work. Aaron gough gives a lot of practical advice and methods, and he makes good knives and is a cool redditor.

Use real steel. Buy some real steel. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000FMYFVI

This is 30 bucks, and will make a real knife worth using.

Use files at first, smithing is way harder. Use a jig, it is harder to mess up than doing it freehand.

I would suggest getting it professionally heat treated: if you aren't doing too many, it will be cheaper than doing it ghetto at home and you will get way better results. When I started, I messed up about half of the ones I heat treated at home. It sucks to have a knife go to waste. I would suggest peters heat treat. You can do it at home if you want, but you will shell out more initially for the setup. It is fun though.

http://www.petersheattreat.com/blades/pricing/

Thirty bucks to get your blade awesomely heat treated.

Total cost would be about 100 dollars for: the steel, the files and material for a jig, and the heat treat. The piece of steel I linked to should be enough for a couple of knives.

More advice: trawl through this subreddit extensively. :) Research helps a ton for getting good results.

Ditch the converter for a NOCO battery charger/maintainer. You will thank yourself later. This one does fine with a 55Ah AGM battery. Also, don't use a wet cell battery unless it's in its own box outside the trailer.

I like your fuse block. I fused the battery feed to mine at 30A, and sized the wire accordingly - 10AWG boat cable would be perfect. All the fuses in my Blue Sea Systems fuse block are 10A and under.

Grab some LED voltmeters and mount one inside and one near your fuses. And one in your car, and....

Unless you need a separate distro bus, I'd skip that. I am using Wago 221-415 connectors as mini bus bars as needed - run a wire from the fuse panel into the cabin, then up to four additional circuits from that point - lights, etc.

You will find that your main switch panel is less functional than you hoped it would be. I recently removed mine. Individual switches at point of contact are much more user-friendly.

We loved our Fantastic Fan, and I've heard great things about Maxx Fans, but we went back to a solid roof with vent fans in the galley bulkhead.

Multicolored LED strips are fun! We are currently installing two circuits of them in the galley. When you set yours up, make sure you install a controller with non-remote controls. We have had some of the remotes fail, and at least one of them couldn't be replaced. Superbright LEDs currently has a stunning deal on one that fit our needs.

LED strip channels are a good idea. Also get the long clips, which hang on to the channel better.

Your under-cabinet lighting is probably on a 12V wall-wart. Cut it off and hook the LED strips right into your 12V system.

For wiring, get a spool each of 22AWG, 18AWG and 14AWG tinned copper cable; molded cable (lamp cord style) is acceptable. We have used Wiremold NMW1 raceway and surface mount boxes to keep things simple and tidy. Where things turn corners we leave the wires exposed instead of going nuts with the corner and tee fittings.

http://www.amazon.com/Gallium-99-99-Pure-grams-GalliumSource/dp/B0051GWA3S
its called gallium, its a metal that's when its at room temperature its a solid, but at body temperature is turns to a liquid. so you can make molds and fill them up with gallium then when someone picks it up it melts all over them, and you can do lots more with it!
for the games, i would love medal of honor, i have never played it and it looks like a lot of fun.

This Zombie Plant is pretty awesome. Galluim has an extremely low melting point for a metal and will turn to liquid in your hand! This Stegosaurus Skeleton plush is one of my favorites. I love stegosauruses and skeletons and plushes, so its a godly combination. Hopefully you're a dinosaur fan!

I used these. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01NCS0WE8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

They come with a small clip/bracket that you screw into the wall, then the rail snaps into it. Is a great look, they are easy to cut into whatever size you might need with a typical handsaw. And they diffuse the light really well so that you don't see points as much. Totally worth it, and way better than the factory tape.


I think the factory tape is only good to get a general sense of your look, what you think it should look like, and allow you to reposition. Then use these rails, and you will be very happy.

Besides fix as many world problems fixable by money (hunger, shelter, health) as possible, which I don't think is what you are asking about...

• Buy some land and build an earthship community, make it a place where anybody is welcome
  
  
• Grow many, many plants - fruits, veggies, ornamental plants (including bonsai), some psychonautical plants, trees, grasses, shrubberies, lichens, fungi farm, you get the idea
  
  
• Buy a crapton of bismuth and grow ginormo bismuth crystals, a new hobby of mine
  
  
• Buy the rest of my dream music equipment and record lots of music, invite people to come and play along
  
  
• Create a videogame studio and make a game I've been creating in my mind for years that chronicles an epic war of love, so to speak, between two souls who continually reincarnate in different times to learn from each other in battle, romance, philosophical discussion, psychonautical antics, and general saving-the-world type things
  
  
• Write a book on the same videogame idea, maybe do the book first
  
  
• Dance
  
  
• Buy a building in somewhere and make it a psychonaut's wet dream hangout/safe spot where anybody can go to trip (or be sober) and be safe with therapists, yoga instructors, meditation guides, art/music/light rooms, fruits and veggies, tea and coffee, trippy books, quiet zones, tooooyyysss!, friendly people

This was a long time coming, as I was making do with a shitty L shaped desk in my shed and some poorly supported shelves for years. I didn't have enough room to spread out complex projects and my tool storage was non-existent. Further I was constantly hitting my legs on the desk and it was too low; thus hard on my back.

As I had a 10' long back area, I wanted a wall supported work bench with shelves of test equipment and storage above it. The rubber maid twin rack was ideal as it would go into the wall studs and was avialbe in up to 24" deep support arms.

I stacked a countertop on this and it was perfect for working on. Heat resistant and cheap enough to replace if it gets damaged. The best part is no supports under it to hit my knees on. I did add some small reinforcing 1" wide strips under it to distribute the load.

Protip: when installing the shelves and countertop, leave a 1.5" space from the wall to the shelf as this will allow cords/coax to go behind it and space to tilt the whole thing up if need be and remove/reposition it.

Also the Grip Rite screws are fucking awesome. I used a electric torque driver to put them in and the star drive prevents torque out like with the phillips screws. I'll never use the old phillips wood screws again.

During all this I got a cheap tool box from harbor freight and solved my tool organization problems once and for all. I installed some channel with double sided tape under the shelves and put RGB LED strip lights under them.

I'm very happy with the almost 10' of work space now, it's such a step up from my 50" wide desk.

1. Gallium
   
2. Drawing stumps
   
3. I need these items because first I will purchase a spoon mold, and pour in the liquid gallium. The gallium will solidify into a spoon, and then I can dip the spoon into some warm water to liquefy it, and amaze my friends with the disappearing spoon! I will then draw all my friends reactions, and using the drawing stumps I will be able to perfectly shade in their faces!
   
   Schmad on my add on

I don't know what it's primarily used for, but it's a metal that melts at just above room temperature. You can play with a solid piece in your hands and it will melt into a puddle in seconds, it's also non-toxic (to touch at least) and you can buy it online. It will also eat through certain kinds of other metals like aluminum, if you put some on a can of soda for a while it'll go right through it. It's an interesting metal for sure.

I put in Hue lightstrips under my kitchen cabinets. I highly recommend installing them in diffusers. They help soften the light, but more importantly they make for a very clean looking install. I used these ones: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01NCS0WE8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_dYoQDbQ7HADKX

The connectors made by this company are also very useful for splitting and joining strips together: https://litcessory.com (also available on Amazon)

I personally did this research recently and opted out of RGB and for high CRI strips that are very bright but very dimmable. Total cost was not as cheap as I had originally expected, but the end concept seems like it will come together well. Here's my equipment list (though in my case i've purchased multiple strips):

​

|16.5 ft 95 CRI Warm LED Strip|$99.00|https://store.waveformlighting.com/products/ultra-high-95-cri-led-strip-lights-for-home-residential?variant=5776159014941 |
|:-|:-|:-|
|24V 10A Power Supply|$19.99|https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B078RYWZMH/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=AA0YO4F2UD50F&psc=1 |
|20 pack 3.3 ft Alu Channel|$46.90|https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B072VZSQ3P/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?smid=AN8BOPYGQ9JVK&psc=1 |
|Shelly RGBW 2 Controller|$21.99|https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07N49TXLQ/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_1?smid=AFXZFGKJMX9E4&psc=1 |

​

This allows me to control four separate white strips with on/off and dimming capabilities but does not accommodate for a physical switch, though it easily could be incorporated into this setup.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071FRFQVZ

I have 50 meters of this under the soffit on my house. It’s not a good choice for that much because wiring entry points don’t exist, but would be a lot better for indoors. It’s pretty small. Just barely fits the width of 10-12mm LED tape. Check the list of sponsored related products for other designs, including a really nice looking corner piece under the muzata brand.

Are the LED strips laid out relatively straight? Because if so the easiest solution is to just encase them in something. They sell Aluminum Channel for LEDs, like this: https://www.amazon.com/LEDwholesalers-Aluminum-Mounting-Installations-1902-U/dp/B00PJSUZSK/ref=pd_bxgy_60_img_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00PJSUZSK&pd_rd_r=REHQ9GGMNA7XK7GZ8S12&pd_rd_w=gycAr&pd_rd_wg=Q27T8&psc=1&refRID=REHQ9GGMNA7XK7GZ8S12

That example might not be durable enough for your application, but something along those lines would definitely be better than just an exposed strip. I have used it before and the plastic is fairly durable and flexible so hopefully it wouldn't crack from impact.

If you don't mind going the DIY route, you could probably come in under $100 for parts for the strips:

• LED Strips - https://www.amazon.com/SUPERNIGHT-16-4ft-300leds-Waterproof-Flexible/dp/B00KYKEUXO/
  
• Power Supply - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073QTNF9F/
  
• Wifi controller - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01DY56N8U/
  
• Extension cable - https://www.amazon.com/LEDENET-Extension-Cable-Color-ribbon/dp/B00J4HI746/
  
• Snap-on Connectors - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01CNYZ0NW/
  
• Channel for mounting - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LL2SLME/
  
  Instead of the flat channel, you might be better off with angled channel for mounting the strips above the cabinets, since they'll throw more light on the wall, which is what you'll actually see - https://www.amazon.com/LEDwholesalers-Aluminum-Mounting-Installations-1901-V/dp/B00PJSSD7K/
  
  There's a ZWave RGBW controller but it's more expensive than the wifi one and can take some more configuration: https://www.amazon.com/Fibaro-Micro-Controller-Z-wave-Strips/dp/B00P1N68FW/
  
  If you get the snap-on connectors, I recommend putting a small amount of solder on all of the pads where you'll be connecting them on the strips, so that they make a good connection.
  
  As for the puck lights, you could probably get something like this and wire the distributor to the wifi/ZWave controller, instead of plugging it into the controller it comes with: https://www.amazon.com/Changing-Christmas-Furniture-Ambiance-Lighting/dp/B01N2I47VH/ref=sr_1_2

Not entering because I've been more than lucky lately, but I thought you might find this cool. Gallium is wicked neat and I love that you can buy it on Amazon.

I have retrofitted two kitchens with LED under cabinet lighting, both before tiling the backsplash, each at a cost under $100 USD. The first has been going strong for almost 10 years.

First, IMO under cabinet lighting is task lighting. It doesn't need to be dimmable and doesn't need to be RGB, just go with a warm or cool temperature depending on your preference.

This is what I suggest - I assume you are in the U.S...

1. Run 18AWG Low Voltage LED Cable 2 Conductor Jacketed in-Wall Wire from the back of a selected base cabinet through the wall(s) to each contiguous span of upper cabinets. These wires can terminate in a small box in, or under, the cabinet. The wiring also can be daisy-chained if needed. For example, a wire can be used to connect cabinet spans that are separated by a small distance, say by a range hood.
   
2. Wire a switched 110v outlet into the same base cabinet. This only needs to be operated by a single switch,, probably over the counter, or near an entrance to the kitchen area.
   
3. Use LED 5050 Flexible Strip Lights, Warm White 3000K 16.4ft 300 LEDs (or whatever color temp you prefer) inside Litever 6-Pack 3.3ft/1 Meter 9x18mm U Shape Aluminum Channels with Diffuser cut at custom lengths to match the widths of cabinet spans. These should be mounted at the front of the cabinet and a small wiring channel used to hide the wiring under the cabinet were it runs from front to back.
   
4. Drive the LED strips by a LEDwholesalers 12-Volt DC Waterpoof LED Power Suppply Driver Transformer with 3-Prong Plug, 60W, 3204-12V (or something similar) mounted in the base cabinet with the low-voltage wiring and switched outlet.
   
   I used these items. This setup is simple and inexpensive, any one component can be replaced easily if it fails, and it can be controlled by a smart switch of your choice.
   
   If you want mood lighting, then you can wire 110v outlets above the cabinets and use one, or two of Philips - Hue Play White & Color Ambiance Smart LED Bar Light to shine on the ceiling, or use Philips Hue bulbs in your recessed light cans.

If you want to bring her back to life you can repair the frame pretty good with a mesh reinforcement and some epoxy on both sides.

You can also use duck tape and super glue.

you could always take a rotary tool, a pointed diamond bit, a ruler and a gold,silver or bronze sharpie (if your i beam is dark in color if its somewhat shiny you can just use a normal black sharpie) and make that drilled round hole into a square one.

for a horn a i just thought up a mod for a I-beam anvil. what you will need, get a good thick piece of round stock (a axle or thick spring from a car would work as its good high carbon steel), a blowtorch head, a small bottle of MAP gas, and if you do not have it a angle grinder with a proper abrasive disk for grinding and a cut off head.

First Grind the round stock into a proper tapered horn leaving a bit of a original materials size on the back end. Next switch to the cutting disk and cut off a appropriate amount of the middle section of the I beam off. Next using the Map gas get top of the beam to a nice orange color,(it will take some time) take your hammer and hammer it to a 90 dgree angle. let it cool fully. then drill a hole into it the size of the horn. now the extra material should stop it from falling out and also serves to hold it in place for the next step. Next reheat the section back to orange and hammer down on it to hot form the extended piece to the horn. you may need to do some hardening to and tempering at the end to make sure it will not brake under the strain of working it.


Keep in mind I have not tried this out as I came up with it as I was writing it. I just use a Vise anvil hybrid and use the face of the vice as a shaping horn. However i am a Hobby bladesmith not a blacksmith.

Or you could shell out 15.05 for this Or you could ju st buy this https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B003ES5T9C/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1 and mod the horn to your liking.
and just grind down the horn. i use this one, however i kinda need to buy new nuts and bolts for it as I lost 2 well moving it to install the vise anvil hybrid i am now using.

Similar but slightly different, I went with these. Two of those fit a single light strip just about perfectly.

Still can't be sure it's exactly what I ordered, but this is a start in the right direction I found with Google
I'm searching fuckcombustion for info, but I'm sure any fine screen would be perfect.

Depends were you live and it may take a visit to the place to see what they really have. I found a local store that had tool steel, O1 and W2, in both round bar and flat bar for reasonable prices BUT that isn't listed on their website. They also had a bunch of small cut off pieces of various metals for art projects which was really handy as well.

I know you didn't want to buy on line but Amazon has O1 with free shipping. Might be able to get a better deal locally if you look around.

Amazon, eBay, wherever. Brass rod stock in specific diameters is a bit beyond what you can find at the Home Depot. Fortunately, it doesn't take much.

Here is some 3mm brass rod stock that works great for Kwikset and Schlage: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074W3W1B1

Technically, it's too big (.118 inches instead of .115 inches), but what's a few thousands of an inch between friends? ;)

I purchased an Arduino and 3 sets of these led strips as they go around the ceiling in the room. I also got mounting brackets as it defuses the lights AND can screw into surfaces as opposed to the LED which has a sticker backing, so once on a surface they can't really be moved. But with the mounting hardware I could possibly move them.... maybe.

I also got this power supply but with 3 strips I don't go over a Brigthness of 150-ish. (as opposed to 255) You'll also need a ac power cable to the power supply. However, so good news here, if you're only using one strip you SHOULD be able to get by with only power from the USB.

Now on to programming; There is the Arduino IDE free of course, but you'll have to learn a TINY amount of C. If you've worked with C#, JavaScript you'll be fine. It's not that low level. You will want to get the FastLED library and then select the DemoReel100 project and it will show you lots of options on how to control the LEDs.

As for having your PC control the LEDs, it will depend on exactly what that means. I have a C# app that sends data to the Arduino and then the Arduino deals with the execution of that command.

Gallium. It's like mercury, but it is safe. Melting point of 85 degrees so it will liquefy in your hands but then solidify on a regular surface. One thing you can do with it is pour it on a table and let it dry flat like a mirror http://www.amazon.com/Gallium-99-99-Pure-15-grams/dp/B0051GWA3S

Not OP but mine were too bright, and reflected off the granite countertop which wasnt great. I got some of these to mount them which helped though they arent cheap. I'd recommend warm white instead of cool as well.

I'm just that badass.

Naw I just got a little 9lb one (this one) and some adhesive felt for the bottom so it doesn't scratch the shelf.

I think it looks pretty sweet: http://imgur.com/a/J8fTt

https://www.amazon.com/Precision-Ground-Annealed-Thickness-Length/dp/B00CZDPAI2/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1518120890&sr=8-2&keywords=o1+tool+steel+flat+stock

EDIT: If you go this route, most options are prime eligible, but make sure you check stock sizes a little bigger or smaller than your ideal size. The price can vary wildly. For example, I was buying 3/16x1x36 for $50, then found that 5/32 was $25.

It's unavailable, https://www.amazon.fr/gp/product/B010QBL740/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

And if you're in the states, good luck on Amazon, I couldn't find the exact same thing and the names are crazy, chanel, channeling, u shape, profile, track, like, jesus christ make your mind up people.

https://www.amazon.com/3-3FT-Aluminum-Channel-Track-installation/dp/B01MPWVE3E/ref=sr_1_91?ie=UTF8&qid=1519837459&sr=8-91&keywords=aluminum+led+channel

https://www.amazon.com/Litever-Aluminum-Channels-Trimless-Mounting/dp/B01IY1L2B2/ref=sr_1_174_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1519837521&sr=8-174-spons&keywords=aluminum+led+channel&psc=1

That's what I'd aim for, you want depth.

I had undercabinet florescent with power coming directly into them, and I replaced them with a combination of led strip lighting, diffusers and individual power supplies. Then I changed the switch to a GE z-wave. Here's a list of the products I used:

Power Supply: ($14 x 3)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B017R17YQC/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

LED Lights: ($8) https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HSF64JG/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Diffusers: ($26)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00PJSUZSK/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Zwave Switch (now they are $38, but I got some on clearance for $21)

https://www.amazon.com/GE-Wireless-Lighting-Required-14291/dp/B01M1AHC3R/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1519156674&sr=8-2-spons&keywords=ge+zwave&psc=1

All in all I replaced lighting under the three main cabinets and the total cost was under $100. I'm not sure it was the best way to do it, but it works! For my application dimming wasn't what I was looking for, but I think you could swap out some parts for the dimmable versions.

Really recommend getting these too: https://www.amazon.com/Muzata-Aluminum-Mounting-Installations-Diffuser/dp/B01M09PBYX

Helps mount to the bottom of the cabinet and the cover will diffuse the light a bit for a nicer look, especially if you have reflective countertops.

I'm just gonna have to start recommend this to everyone with LEDs lining their ceiling. LED TRACK WITH DIFFUSER
It improves the look by 4000% at least, and is much easier on the eyes than bare diodes.

I've made some out of aluminum sheets, and used expanded aluminum for the front and top of them:

https://www.amazon.com/Aluminum-Expanded-Sheet-Unpolished-Finish/dp/B00CNLVB3E

Cost me about $25 -$30 in metal, and the fab time. On the other hand, they'll last 'till the end of time......

Gallium. The metal that melts in your hands. Not really related to your wishlist, but definitely cool. This is my item.

These channels fit 2nd gen lightstrip almost perfectly!
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01NCS0WE8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This was my preferred secure wipe method when I still worked in I.T. My second career as a chemist is a much better fit.

1. Remove drive from case.
   
2. Place drive on concrete, gravel, sand or other non-flammable surface away from flammable objects/material. (I prefer to place the drive on an upside-down cast iron skillet so that the heat is less likely to damage the pavement.)
   
3. Place ceramic flower pot with drain hole on top of drive (alternately, shotgun a can of soda, cut the top off, place this on top of drive).
   
4. Fill pot/can with a thoroughly homogenized mix of iron oxide powder and aluminum powder. Do not breath this dust. The proper ratio is roughly 3:1 iron to aluminum by weight.
   
5. Place a layer of potassium permanganate on top of powder mix.
   
6. Quickly add several drops of glycerin on top of the permanganate.
   
7. It will only take a moment for this reaction to ignite the thermite so be sure to de-ass the area with the quickness. If you can't stop yourself from watching, wear eclipse viewing glasses or welding goggles. Seriously, it's bright.
   
8. Avoid breathing in the resulting smoke. It's probably toxic 15 ways from Sunday.
   
9. Wait for everything to cool before retrieving drive.
   
10. Return the drive to the customer as evidence of secure wipe.
    
    

    WARNING: THIS PROCESS IS PROVIDED FOR INFORMATIONAL AND ENTERTAINMENT PURPOSES ONLY. PERFORM THIS METHOD AT YOUR OWN RISK. THIS GENERATES TONS OF HEAT, BLINDING UV LIGHT, MOLTEN IRON, AND FUN. NEITHER I, NOR REDDIT, NOR YOUR PARENTS WILL BE HELD RESPONSIBLE FOR INJURIES, DEATH, PROPERTY DAMAGE, OR OSHA RECORDABLE INCIDENTS.

Interesting, thanks. The Klus looks expensive and maybe needs a more extensive mounting?

So these look about right?

https://www.amazon.com/DOME-SHAPED-Profile-Aluminum-Dome-Shaped-Applications/dp/B017WTJ02K/ref=sr_1_cc_1?s=aps&ie=UTF8&qid=1494108415&sr=1-1-catcorr

https://www.amazon.com/Aluminum-Channels-Diffuser-Lightstrip-Mounting-LL-007-M/dp/B01NCS0WE8/ref=sr_1_fkmr2_1?s=lamps-light&ie=UTF8&qid=1494108486&sr=8-1-fkmr2

http://www.amazon.com/Precision-Ground-Annealed-Thickness-Length/dp/B00CZDPAI2/ref=sr_1_fkmr3_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1421860628&sr=8-1-fkmr3&keywords=starrett+o-1+tool+steel+precision+ground

Here you go sorry I'm a little new to reddit I haven't quite figured out how to post tiny links like the other guy. Also for small-med size knives basically 10 in. and under I really like 3/32 for something bigger like a chopper go 3/16-1/4 in.

Easy, buy these two items for a total of 45 bucks and you have the ingredients for tannerite. Fun stuff.

https://www.amazon.com/Dynarex-Instant-Cold-Inches-24-Count/dp/B004CQ5NUK/

https://www.amazon.com/Pounds-Aluminum-Powder-30-micron/dp/B00KF598X0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1512053748&sr=8-1&keywords=powdered+aluminum

I have used the RGB led strips that you linked to. I currently have them under my cabinets. They have been there for over a year now and working just fine. I will make one suggestion if you are going this route. The double sided tape that is on these led strips do not hold up well. I would recommend using these housings just to make it look more professional and not worry about the double sided tape giving out.
Led Strip channel

I didn't want my strips just glued on so I used these strips:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01NCS0WE8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

While it is a bunch of extra work cutting and attaching these, once done the install is not ever going to fall apart.

Added bonus: the diffuser actually makes the light better in my opinion as it decreases the visibility of each light's reflection on the counter.

I use these aluminum rails for my LED strips https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00PJSUZSK/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Easy to mount, diffuse the light nicely.

Sorry, I meant the following products (examples):
https://www.elementalled.com/products/diode-led/aluminum-led-strip-light-channels.html
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01NCS0WE8
Basically you enclose the bare ledstrip in an aluminum profile with a (semi) transparant cover of choice so the strip itself is protected and glued one time only. You only have to mount the profile itself so therefore it's easier to move the profile than to undo the glueing.

https://www.amazon.com/Muzata-Aluminum-Mounting-Installations-Diffuser/dp/B01M09PBYX/

These would fix that and help diffuse the light better

Yeah, or at the very least the friend should pick up some diffuser channels. Something like this. Exposed LEDs just look cheap.

This is the listing I used when I purchased it in 2013 (the price and quality were fine for me, I'd probably buy this again if I wanted to experiment more).

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001QUVMC8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Granted, I'm a geologist that works in the metal's mining industry, so my idea of what is "cheap" for a metal ingot might be a little skewed, as I'm comparing it to the prices of other metal ingots like platinum, silver, zinc, etc.

they have anvils too

https://www.amazon.com/Olympia-Tools-38-789-Hobby-Anvil/dp/B003ES5T9C

I was hoping for a goldmine but it seems like it's just cheep tools

cough I checked UK because that's where I am, but that stuffs cheaper and easier to get in the US!

It might be gallium which is pretty much non-toxic and can be bought on amazon

http://www.amazon.com/Gallium-99-99-Pure-grams-GalliumSource/dp/B0051GWA3S

There are two knifemaking subreddits, /r/knifemaking and /r/Bladesmith. If you want to get him steel Amazon stock O1 tool steel which will be much nicer for him to work with than leaf springs - https://www.amazon.com/Precision-Ground-Annealed-Thickness-Length/dp/B00CZDPAI2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1482297534&sr=8-1&keywords=o1+steel. If you go with that I would suggest getting 5/32 inch thickness and 1.5 or 2 inch width, and whatever length you prefer.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003JP6DIG

Needs a little polishing on the ends, but it's a great squib rod for 9mm and up. I might cut mine down to 8-10" instead of a foot long, but you don't want to go too short and hit your barrel with a hammer either.

I tried several different brands. If your countertop is glossy you will see the lights with or without a diffuser. These fit perfectly:

Litever 6-Pack 3.3ft/1 Meter 9x18mm U Shape Aluminum Channels With Diffuser, End Caps and Mounting Clips LED Strip Channels for Max 16mm Wide LED Lightstrip Light Mounting--LL-007-M https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01NCS0WE8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_6IlKAbJYC67EG

If the 100 watt 4.5 pound flexible panels are used, AL expanded metal can be attached to the 80/20 framework to support the panels.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000FMYFVI/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1450143196&sr=8-1&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=o1+tool+steel&dpPl=1&dpID=31xGT3DXKzL&ref=plSrch

This is where I've gotten my o1 for a long time. Look through the many different size combinations, you'll often find nonsensically cheap steel at certain dimensions. I recommend 1/8 thickness.

[~$20 for the steel; 1/8"x2"x 18"](
http://amzn.com/B000FMYFVI)
Everything for the jig ~$40; I bought two files and rod for the files. I am going to rebuild it with wood-plastic composite.
Micarta- ~$10 for the resin, and 5 minutes of convincing my SO to let me cut up one of her blur shirts :)
Forge ~$80 because of the MAP gas torch.

I tried that a while back. Don't waste your time. The steel is VERY low quality and won't harden. If you want to go a simple route, use a reciprocating saw blade. That steel is already hard. You have to be very careful shaping it not to overheat it, but you won't need to harden it after.

Using good quality steel makes a BIG difference. You can get it from McMaster Carr, or even Amazon. I found this hunk on ebay and paid 3 dollars for it.

I used https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07HRHDV1T/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 for strips, https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071FRFQVZ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1 for light diffusion, and the board is just a piece of large plywood I cut a little larger than the star pattern and painted black with two layers of spray paint. I applied polyurethane sealer on top to give it a clean finish. It has a wire on the back so I can move it around the house.

I did self adhesive led strips mounted to 1/4" aluminum angle stock. I screwed the aluminum stock to the face frame under the cabinets and oriented it so the led strips were facing the wall and one side of the angle stock was facing towards the countertop.

I used a dimmable 12vdc power supply and put it on a standard 120vac dimmer switch. The aluminum acts as a heat sink and when you look down at the glossy counter top, you can't see the leds. Worked pretty well.

it looks like its not that difficult to make your own crystals. amazon even sells pure bismuth by the pound! Gotta try this sometime

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003ES5T9C/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1421831858&sr=8-1&dpPl=1&dpID=41FJmWTK50L&ref=plSrch&pi=AC_SX200_QL40

That should get ya to it, sorry for the messy link I'm on mobile.

It has a weird enamel coat that chips off easily so the horn in the front isn't too useful, but $20 shipped for a 9lb anvil is too good to pass up.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01NCS0WE8/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_Y15XDb0DV7TXP

Eat to cut, looks great, would buy again.

Brass is softer then the steel in your barrel. It will not scratch or damage the rifling.

A 9mm is .355 inches. So you want something a bit narrower.

464 Brass Round Rod, Unpolished (Mill) Finish, H02 Temper, ASTM B21, 0.3125" Diameter, 12" Length https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003JP6DIG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_Y9c9wbWCKT77X

This would work fine. I would probably hit the edges with some Sand paper just so you don't cut your hands on a burr.

You can honestly find something at homedepot. You want it to take up as much room in the barrel as possible, so it doesn't get wedged between the bullet and the barrel.

I believe you can find caliber specific squib rods online but you will pay a premium on them.

If you have a rubber mallet I would use it just to make sure you don't mark up the barrel if you miss :P

I would start on some tool steel blanks. Some generally like this. https://www.amazon.com/Steel-Precision-Ground-Standard-Tolerance/dp/B00CZDPAI2

Or cut up a steel circular saw blade, some things like that before you try a firearm.

This site says it's about as common as silver. Here's a chart that seems to confirm. (Ag-silver, Au-gold, Bi-bismuth) You can definitely make your own bismuth crystals at home, and can buy it from amazon.(not a referral link)

Okay, maybe not quite that small. This one Might not be bad though.

Probably have to just search on Amazon, but I found one at least that reviews say fits it: http://amazon.com/Litever-Aluminum-Channels-Lightstrip-Mounting-LL-007-M/dp/B01NCS0WE8/

This company also seems to have a bunch that might be higher quality than the generic chinese ones on Amazon: https://www.solidapollo.com/led-strip-profiles/

Here is an Ebay link at $30/lb +$9 shipping. That's just from a google search, I'm sure you can find it cheaper.

Edit: Of course it's cheaper at Amazon

These(or similar) with this over it! Make it flush with the ceiling on one side or all sides of the room. You could also get a flat version of that to put along floorboards in hallways, and all you'd need to keep it up is some small screws. That's all I can do to help!

Either that of you could just find some paper lantern covers for your lights and put them on each bulb.

Amazon ships globally?

A2-

01-

To make this easier in a practical way, you could roll your dice into something like a 90 degree piece of aluminum (like this).

Once the dice are settled, you can always see which two numbers you got. It also makes it easier if orientation doesn't matter, which gives you 12 possibilities instead of 24.

Edit: One disadvantage I see with this strategy is that you can't use the values of the faces as numbers. Getting 1,4 and 2,3 are both possible. So you'd have to assign numbers to each combination (e.g. 1,2 = 0; 1,3 = 1; etc.)

you can buy a pound of bismuth on for 20 bucks and make dozens and dozens of your own on a kitchen stove. You can google up directions, but a basic summary. 1) melt all your bismuth in one container, pour into a second (leave the silvery oxidized film behind) 2)cool as slowly as possible 3) as it begins to turn solid again pour off the liquid, leaving crystals formed around your container.

Olympia Tools 38-789 9 Lb. Hobby Anvil, Cast Iron https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003ES5T9C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_ZMVEDbZDCADG2 ;)

Sorry I don't have personal recommendation because I don't have a battlestation myself or even a proper bedroom yet. Trying to move really soon here and start remedying that. I just lurk this sub in the meantime to get ideas on what I'm gonna do when I finally move.

Found these though and they seem to have good reviews. But I don't know if they work for the type of lights you have or not so I guess you need to do a bit of research on that.

40 G is $15 on Amazon

$10.50

Amazon has 01 6"x18" in either 1/8" or 1/16" for < $70

http://www.amazon.com/Steel-Precision-Ground-Standard-Tolerance/dp/B00CZDPAI2

How about Amazon you pansy.

No. You'd need aluminum powder. That link goes to Aluminum Oxide. It's exactly like the difference between iron and rust.

This, on the other hand...

>I change it to a “bench anvil”, which is basically a smaller anvil that weighs ~30 pounds, meant to be used one a table to support lighter work.

Which is what I attempted to do here. Any sort of flat steel or cast iron surface can qualify as an anvil in a pinch, even a simple block of steel. Immunity to malleability is the primary goal, because then it can act as a suitable working surface.

I understand why it'd be strange to have a standard sized anvil, and I agree, but I also imagined a smaller, portable sized anvil.

Here is an example of what I had in mind: https://www.amazon.com/Olympia-Tools-38-789-Hobby-Anvil/dp/B003ES5T9C

It may have the same drawbacks as you mentioned, as it is smaller for the sake of portability, but I personally think it fits with the tool kit.

Nope, very easy by the sounds of it (I haven't tried). It's non toxic so not too many issues getting it.

http://www.amazon.com/Gallium-99-99-Pure-grams-GalliumSource/dp/B0051GWA3S

First search on amazon, 15g for $26

Litever 6-Pack 3.3ft/1 Meter 9x18mm U Shape Aluminum Channels With Diffuser, End Caps and Mounting Clips LED Strip Channels for Max 16mm Wide LED Lightstrip Light Mounting--LL-007-M https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01NCS0WE8/ref=cm_sw_r_other_taa_JwoJAbT72Z211

http://www.amazon.com/Gallium-99-99-Pure-grams-GalliumSource/dp/B0051GWA3S

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LBGHU2S/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_S_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=1DKI5KNZ5CY83&coliid=I1V06DZZB9737Z&psc=1

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B009P8ARHY/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_S_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=1DKI5KNZ5CY83&coliid=IM9D7WHABIFEP

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0051GWA3S/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pd_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=1DKI5KNZ5CY83&coliid=I2GNHRONA3TAKX

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071FRFQVZ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_ZxODDbZQFCMN8

Gallium

You could probably stand on that aluminum, but that's really expensive. Take a look at these:

https://www.amazon.com/Aluminum-Expanded-Sheet-Unpolished-Finish/dp/B00CNLVB3E

http://www.amazon.com/Non-Coated-Ammonium-Nitrate-34-0-0-Fertilizer/dp/B00O6EY5BG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1458036582&sr=8-1&keywords=ammonium+nitrate

http://www.amazon.com/Pounds-Aluminum-Powder-30-micron/dp/B00KF598X0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1458036592&sr=8-1&keywords=aluminum+powder

Here you go!

I used these, there are lots of size and positioning options if you search amazon...

https://www.amazon.com/Litever-Aluminum-Channels-Lightstrip-Mounting-LL-007-M/dp/B01NCS0WE8/ref=sr_1_10?ie=UTF8&qid=1543432240&sr=8-10&keywords=hue+light+strip+diffuser

There are holders (LED Channel) meant for holding LED strips. You can get flat or angled holders.

https://www.amazon.com/hunhun-Aluminum-Mounting-Installations-Installation/dp/B071FRFQVZ/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?

https://www.amazon.com/Olympia-Tools-38-789-Hobby-Anvil/dp/B003ES5T9C/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1520018931&sr=8-3&keywords=anvil

You might consider putting it in a diffuser. i.e Diffuser

It's available on amazon. I'm all over it.

Kids, make your own at home:

http://www.amazon.com/Roto-Metals-BISMUTH-1-Pound-Ingot-99-99-Pure/dp/B001QUVMC8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=industrial&qid=1256260735&sr=8-1

http://www.amazingrust.com/Experiments/how_to/Bismuth_Crystals.html

http://www.amazon.com/Gallium-99-99-grams-GalliumSource-LLC/dp/B0051GWA3S

After a quick search i found some on amazon. Even has a few people who say they made the crystals from it

Amazon

I bought it in preparation for an experiment that I was going to run on making some very large lab-grown samples of my own.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0051GWA3S/

Not OP, but these are the ones I have in my living room.

kataderple is right, thats what I did. Here is what I used for a hammer
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B001BHGC6M/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Also used this anvil
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B003ES5T9C/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

First time doing it and I just randomly hammered away sometimes hitting harder but mostly just using the required amount of force to make the dimples.

Correct...typo, ws2812b.

LEDs:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07BGSZLGX/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1

NodeMCU:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B010N1SPRK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Diffuser:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M09PBYX/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

2A power adapter (x2):
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0777HWN87/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

someone posted a link to these a few days ago, i bookmarked it but dont remember what redditor posted originally... you might be able to use these on the ceiling and put the strips in. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01NCS0WE8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1

• Natural Water-Based Lubricant - 55 Gallon
  
  
  
• 1500 Live Ladybugs - Guaranteed Live Delivery
  
  
• Gallium 99.99% Pure 15 grams
  
  
• and the classic horse head mask

$14.99 + $7.70 shipping from [RotoMetals via Amazon](http://www.amazon.com/Roto-Metals-BISMUTH-1-Pound-Ingot-99-99-Pure/dp/B001QUVMC8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=industrial&qid=1256265176&sr=8-1 "shipping in the U.S. I think")

$12.99 + $6.38 shipping (to Utah) directly from [RotoMetals](http://www.rotometals.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=BISMUTH&CartID=1 "not sure about shipping rates to other places")

> Gallium

Now I kind of want to buy some. I expected it to be irrationally expensive, but it's not.

https://www.amazon.com/Gallium-99-99-Grams-Melting-Point/dp/B00F3IXF9M

https://www.amazon.com/Instant-Cold-Pack-Kit-POUNDS/dp/B07CZK913Y/ref=sr_1_3?crid=1IKXCAGFDNXZK&keywords=tannerite&qid=1571616531&sprefix=tannerit%2Caps%2C155&sr=8-3

​

https://www.amazon.com/2-Pounds-Aluminum-30-micron/dp/B00KF598X0/ref=sr_1_2?crid=1IKXCAGFDNXZK&keywords=tannerite&qid=1571616531&sprefix=tannerit%2Caps%2C155&sr=8-2

​

True to ACME, enjoy your grievous bodily harm.

best... no clue, havent tried them all

​

what I used

​

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075YS3THJ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B076HCXHT2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/Muzata-Aluminum-Mounting-Installations-Diffuser/dp/B01M09PBYX/

​

Im pleased, the wifi control works with alexa to go on as scheduled, retains its setting if you flip the power by a switch. The lights are bright enough, the track diffuses the light, I mounted it at a 45degree angle under the cabinets, though I probably could have bought a track made for that.

​

However, my one gripe is that the LEDs have a noticable flicker to them sometimes... not sure if its the PSU, controller, or LEDs. They dont all do it though, so thats strange.

​

Hue just looked ridiculously expensive for the same thing... there were even complaints about its quality, which for $100+ should not be a concern.

Shit is cheap too http://www.amazon.com/Gallium-99-99-grams-GalliumSource-LLC/dp/B0051GWA3S

This guy is right.

Do this outside. Maybe set up a fan blowing this shit away from you.

http://socratic.org/questions/what-is-the-molarity-of-muriatic-acid

A cursory search says muriatic acid from the store is around 10M which is dangerous. Skin burns would suck, but accidentally inhaling a bit too much of the fumes will burn your lungs and send you to the hospital.

Dilute the stuff down before use. Use a glass beer bottle since hydrochloric acid seems to attack a variety of plastics. Measure out nine parts of water then add one part acid to it. Measure out water. Add acid. ORDER MATTERS. If you do this in the opposite order, the acid could boil and splash.






In my opinion, you guys should just source the bismuth from an online supply store. That acid is dangerous shit. (http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001QUVMC8/ref=pd_aw_sims_2?pi=AC_SX230_QL60)