Reddit mentions: The best plastic raw materials
We found 328 Reddit comments discussing the best plastic raw materials. We ran sentiment analysis on each of these comments to determine how redditors feel about different products. We found 156 products and ranked them based on the amount of positive reactions they received. Here are the top 20.
1. PEI (Polyetherimide) Sheet, Opaque Natural, Standard Tolerance, ASTM D5205 PEI0113, 0.03" Thickness, 12" Width, 12" Length
- PEI is a strong, rigid plastic that withstands high temperatures and offers excellent electrical insulation over a wide range of temperatures
- Color is opaque Natural
- Meets ASTM D5205 PEI0113 specifications
- Note: The Standard Cut Tolerance on the Width and Length is (+/-) 3/16”
Features:
Specs:
Color | Natural |
Weight | 0.330693393 Pounds |
Number of items | 1 |
2. KYDEX V Sheet
- TRIPLE MONITOR STAND: Fits 3 monitors 17 19 20 21 22 23 24 inches, with a maximum support weight of 22 pounds each, using the 75x75mm or 100x100mm VESA square bolt hole pattern found on the back of the monitors. Comes with interchangeable free standing or grommet base mount for desktops up to 2.5" inches thick.
- FEATURES: 3 monitor stand mount has 2 full motion, height adjustable arms that tilt, swivel, and rotate. Made of heavy duty steel and have integrated cable management on each arm to keep your cables organized.
- FULLY ADJUSTABLE: 2 of 3 monitor desk mount arms can tilt up and down 15 degrees each way, swivel 360 degrees, raise and lower 17" inches, and monitors can rotate into a fixed landscape or portrait orientation independent of one another.
- EASY INSTALLATION: Three monitor stand comes with all mounting hardware, tools, and instructions necessary for assembly.
- US-BASED CUSTOMER SUPPORT: Triple monitor mount comes with a 5-YEAR WARRANTY and our friendly and responsive customer support team is available to answer any questions you may have during normal business hours.
Features:
3. UHMW (Ultra High Molecular Weight Polyethylene) Sheet, Opaque White, Standard Tolerance, ASTM D4020
UHMW is an impact-, chemical-, and moisture-resistant plastic with a low-friction surface, better abrasion resistance than PTFE, and more rigidity than other polyethylenesColor is opaque whiteMeets ASTM D4020 specificationsStandard tolerance
4. KYDEX V Sheet - 0.080" Thick, Black, 12” x 12” Nominal, 8PACK
- Kydex V is a recycled grade of Kydex 100 and Kydex T
- Higher breakage resistance than competitive thermoplastics as measured by the Notched Izod test
- Among the most rigid of thermoforming materials with a modulus of elasticity of 2,482 MPa (360,000 psi)
- Easy to form with excellent part definition and deep-draw characteristics
Features:
Specs:
Color | Black, 52114, P3 Velour Matte |
Size | 8 Pack - .080", Size - 12" x 12" |
Number of items | 8 |
5. Plastics 2000 Lexan Sheet - Polycarbonate - .030" - 1/32" Thick, Clear, 12" x 12" Nominal
Clear protetive film on **BOTH** sides of sheet. One side has printing. The other side is clear / frosted and hard to see.Lexan is one of the manufactures of the material type PloycarbonateHigh/Low Temperature ResistanceThermoformableBrand Names For Polycabonate: Lexan, Perspex, Makrolon, Tuffak, Sp...
Specs:
Color | clear |
Height | 12 Inches |
Length | 12 Inches |
Weight | 0.2 Pounds |
Width | 0.3 Inches |
Size | Thick - .030" - 1/32", Size - 12" x 12" |
Number of items | 1 |
6. AR-4H Clear Rod,1/8" (30)
- Type: Single End w/o Handle.
- Style: No Go.
- Thread Size: 5/8-11.
- Classification: 2B.
- Handle Size: 3.
Features:
Specs:
Color | Clear |
Height | 0.4 Inches |
Length | 10 Inches |
Width | 0.7 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
7. SIBE-R PLASTIC SUPPLY 5 Kydex Plastic Sheets Black 12" X 12" X 1/16" (0.060")
- Kydex is an extremely durable acrylic/PVC alloy molds very well when used with a vaccum forming machine from SIBE AUTOMATION
Features:
Specs:
Color | Black |
Height | 12 Inches |
Length | 12 Inches |
Width | 0.06 Inches |
8. Plastruct AR-2H Clear Rod,1/16" (40)
This clear solid rod can be used for bracing, cabling, pipingStrip and Rod SeriesPrecision Extruded in Clear Acrylic PlasticIdeal for all facets of scratch model buildingCount 40Specifications
Specs:
Color | Clear |
Height | 0.3 Inches |
Length | 9.4 Inches |
Weight | 0.1 Pounds |
Width | 1.4 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
9. Cast Acrylic Sheet
Cast acrylic is a lightweight, rigid plasticResists breakage better than glassOffers excellent weather resistance
10. Icona Bay PET Plastic Replacement for Poster Frame or Picture Frame Glass (24x36, 2 Pack), PET is the Ideal Replacement Material to Avoid Shattered Glass
CRYSTAL CLEAR PLASTIC SHEET - PET is a plastic resin and a form of polyester; Its shatterproof properties makes it perfect to protect your posters against moisture and dustPERFECT FOR DIY PROJECTS - Similar to acrylic or plexiglass but thinner and can be scored with a utility knife and snapped apart...
Specs:
Color | Clear |
Height | 0.3 Inches |
Length | 36.4 Inches |
Weight | 1.46 Pounds |
Width | 24.6 Inches |
Size | 24x36 |
Number of items | 2 |
11. Online Plastic Supply Acrylic Plexiglass Sheet 1/4" x 24" x 36" - Clear
Acrylic Plastic SheetThickness: .220 inchWidth: 24 inchesLength: 36 inchesColor: Clear | Protective Masking 2 Sides
Specs:
Color | Clear |
Height | 0.22 Inches |
Length | 36 Inches |
Weight | 7.5 Pounds |
Width | 24 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
12. Cast Acrylic Sheet, Translucent White, 12" x 12" x 0.236" Size
- Cast acrylic is a lightweight, rigid plastic that resists breakage better than glass and offers excellent weather resistance
- Color is translucent white
Features:
Specs:
Color | White |
Height | 0.24 Inches |
Length | 12 Inches |
Weight | 2.12 Pounds |
Width | 12 Inches |
Size | Thickness - 0.236", Size - 12" x 12" |
Number of items | 1 |
13. Plastics 2000 KYDEX V Sheet - .060" Thick, Black, 12" x 12" Nominal, 8PACK
- Kydex V is a recycled grade of Kydex 100 and Kydex T
- Higher breakage resistance than competitive thermoplastics as measured by the Notched Izod test
- Among the most rigid of thermoforming materials with a modulus of elasticity of 2,482 MPa (360,000 psi)
- Easy to form with excellent part definition and deep-draw characteristics
- Great for knife sheaths and gun holsters
Features:
Specs:
Color | Black, 52114, P3 Velour Matte |
Height | 1 Inches |
Length | 12 Inches |
Width | 12 Inches |
Size | 8 Pack - .060", Size - 12" x 12" |
Number of items | 8 |
14. PEI (Polyetherimide) Sheet, Opaque Off-White, Standard Tolerance, ASTM D5205 PEI0113
PEI is a strong, rigid plastic that withstands high temperatures and offers excellent electrical insulation over a wide range of temperaturesColor is opaque off-whiteMeets ASTM D5205 PEI0113 specificationsStandard tolerance
15. Vycom 906686 Seaboard High Density Polyethylene Sheet, Matte Finish, 1/4" Thick, 12" Length x 36" Width, Black
- Excellent scratch resistance
- Great impact and stiffness
- Weatherability (UV stabilized)
- Easy to machine with standard tooling
- RoHS compliant
Features:
Specs:
Number of items | 1 |
16. UHMW (Ultra High Molecular Weight Polyethylene) Sheet, Opaque White, Standard Tolerance, ASTM D4020, 1/2" Thickness, 12" Width, 12" Length
- UHMW is an impact-, chemical-, and moisture-resistant plastic with a low-friction surface, better abrasion resistance than PTFE, and more rigidity than other polyethylenes
- Color is opaque white
- Meets ASTM D4020 specifications
- Standard tolerance
Features:
Specs:
Color | White |
Number of items | 1 |
17. 2 Kydex Plastic Sheet Black 12" X 12" X 1/16" (0.060")
- Kydex is an extremely durable acrylic/PVC alloy
- Kydex s more concealable.
- Kydex has no break-in period.
- Kydex is weather-proof.
- ALWAYS IN STOCK AT SIBE AUTOMATION
Features:
Specs:
Color | Black |
Height | 12 Inches |
Length | 12 Inches |
Weight | 1 Pounds |
Width | 0.06 Inches |
18. Chemfluor D1069279 PTFE Film 12" Wide x 25 ft Long
Temperature and corrosion resistantNon-Stick surfaceNon-porous and non-absorbent.005" thick12" x 25 ft
Specs:
Weight | 1 Pounds |
Number of items | 1 |
19. Celtec Expanded PVC Sheet, Satin Smooth Finish, 3mm Thick, 24" Length x 48" Width, Black
- Printable - digital and screen
- It is light weight
- Easy to fabricate, paint or laminate
- Excellent fastening characteristics and fire properties
- RoHS compliant
Features:
Specs:
Height | 0.25 Inches |
Length | 48 Inches |
Width | 24 Inches |
Release date | November 2017 |
Number of items | 1 |
🎓 Reddit experts on plastic raw materials
The comments and opinions expressed on this page are written exclusively by redditors. To provide you with the most relevant data, we sourced opinions from the most knowledgeable Reddit users based the total number of upvotes and downvotes received across comments on subreddits where plastic raw materials are discussed. For your reference and for the sake of transparency, here are the specialists whose opinions mattered the most in our ranking.
Sorry for the potato quality.
Made of kydex. Used barrel nuts, screws and plastic weld for the adjustable part. Neoprene liner to protect the stock.
First attempt. Pretty sloppy with some of the cuts for the Velcro straps, will probably use a plunge cutter on the router next time.
Edit: How to and parts.
Here's an album of it disassembled: http://imgur.com/a/Hx72f
Threw this together quick, so sorry if its not exact, but it should give you an idea.
The parts aren't exact, go to lowes or home depot and play around with what fits best for your application and make sure all the screws screw what you want...
The Hillman Group 1/4-in Zinc-Plated Standard (SAE) Brad Hole Tee Nut - http://www.lowes.com/ProductDisplay?partNumber=137342-37672-880539&langId=-1&storeId=10151&productId=3012548&catalogId=10051&cmRelshp=req&rel=nofollow&cId=PDIO1
The Hillman Group 20-Count #10-24 x 3/8-in Button-Head Plain Steel Allen-Drive Socket Cap Screw - http://www.lowes.com/pd_426315-37672-43560_1z0vrds+1z0yjl3+1z0yjot__?productId=4212340&Ns=p_product_qty_sales_dollar|1&pl=1&currentURL=%3FNs%3Dp_product_qty_sales_dollar|1%26page%3D1&facetInfo=0.375|#10
The Hillman Group 4-Count #10 x 3/8-in Nylon Standard (SAE) Flat Washer - http://www.lowes.com/pd_139065-37672-881544_0__?productId=3013084&Ntt=nylon+washers&pl=1&currentURL=%3FNtt%3Dnylon%2Bwashers&facetInfo=
Devcon 22045 Plastic Welder - 25 ml Dev-Tube - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003NUGL9S/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
KYDEX V Sheet - 0.080" Thick, Black, 12" x 12" Nominal, 8PACK - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009AEKJVW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Sponge Neoprene 1/16" Thick X 54" Wide X 1' - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009K7M1TW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Others things:
Velcro
I found a caliper to be useful ( I have a cheap harbor freight one, doesn’t need to be anything special)
Straight edge
Exacto Knife
Old mouse pad
3m Formula 77
Super Glue
painters tape
Here we go…
First I made a template using some thick card stock paper. I used an old file folder. Cut out the desired shape that will be the bottom layer. Make another template for the riser (this is where the caliper, straight edge, and exacto came in handy).
Cut out the shapes on your kydex. I used a table saw, for quick accurate cuts, however, I’ve heard people use a razor to score and snap the kydex ( I didn’t have much luck with this, I think the .08 kydex is too thick to do this cleanly).
Mark where you would like the tee-bolts and velcro straps to go on the bottom layer. I put the tee bolts slightly above center. Drill your holes using a bit as close to the thickness of the tee-bolt post as you can get, this helps prevent wobbles. Match the post holes on the second sheet of kydex, then measuring half an inch (doesn’t have to be half an inch, could be closer or farther depending on what you’d like) from center add as many additional holes as you desire. Make any drills and cuts before you mold, it will make life easier. Also draw center lines for points of reference.
I wrapped the stock in the neoprene to account for the added thickness during molding. (I eventually glue the neoprene to the inside of the mold to help protect the stock.
Heat the kydex and shape around neoprene covered stock. (Note, mark center points on the kydex and neoprene to easily align).
Tape the freshly molded kydex to the stock. You’ll mold on top of this soon and don’t want it shifting.
Wrap the old mouse pad on the base mold and secure with tape. The second mold will need to be a little wider so it rests on the posts nicely.
Heat the second layer of kydex and mold on top of the mouse pad. Again, pay attention to the center.
After they’ve cooled completely, remove them.
Apply the plastic weld to the tee-posts. Insert the tee-bolts in to the base layer so they are sticking outwards. I like the brad holes, as the plastic weld gets pushed out, they help secure them to the kydex when torque is applied. Wipe away any excess.
After the plastic weld has set, spray the inside of the mold with the formula 77 and insert the neoprene. The neoprene helps protect the stock from the metal tee bolts. This is optional, I did it to protect the stock. This can be tricky, use more neoprene then you’ll need and cut out the excess, that way you get good coverage.
Grab the nylon washers and put them on the tee bolt posts, I super glued these to the kydex to make life easier. You want the washer to be slightly thicker then the posts are high, this way the second piece of kydex is setting on the nylon washer and not the metal posts. Depending on which washers you have, you may want to stack a few on top of each other and glue them.
After every thing has set, attach the second mold of kydex and use the screws to attach to the posts. Adjust height as needed.
Edit two...
Also my cuts for the velcro are very sloppy, I should have used a router or my rotary tool, I may be retarded.
I think kydex might be a good choice. It is pretty cheap, and also heat moldable. Just make sure to check the thickness of the sheets before you buy. If they are too thick, they won't be very flexible. The .060 inch thickness is pretty stiff, but still bendable by hand. You can pop it in the oven and then lay it on a cylindrical object to achieve the desired curve, and then use a heat gun (or a candle, if you're feeling cheap) if you want a more custom fit.
https://www.amazon.com/Kydex-Plastic-Sheets-Black-0-060/dp/B00HAS1VSK/ref=sr_1_4?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1495674072&sr=1-4&keywords=kydex
Otherwise, I have also had luck with those flexible plastic cutting boards, like these:
https://www.amazon.com/Flexible-Plastic-Cutting-Colorful-Kitchen/dp/B01HN7ZGUQ/ref=sr_1_2?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1495674423&sr=1-2&keywords=flexible+cutting+boards
They are pretty good for making crud-catcher type fenders, with liberal use of zip-ties, of course.
Good luck!
Congrats, just got mine 2 months ago.
SeeMeCNC forums are awesome. Start reading every new post.
Best upgrade I've done: PEI Bed
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0013HKZTA
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007Y7D5NQ
~$30 in upgrades; all my prints stick and pop off with ease. Also, the underside of every part is glassy and smooth. So good.
Buy "feeler gages" to assist with leveling the bed.
http://www.amazon.com/Stanley-Proto-J000AA-Master-Feeler/dp/B001HWDOK8/
My bed leveling process is kinda like this:
Let's see, what else. If you can spare the cash, I moved to Simplify3d for all my slicing needs ($100~$150 for the license). Love it. If you can't afford it, maybe you'll find a way.
Also, get ready to do a bajillion calibration runs. I mean it, don't be in a rush.
Find a nice 20mm box off thingiverse or whatever, and you're gonna want to print that repeatedly while you dial in your settings. Once that's set, move on to the hollow pyramid, or the 5mm stairs.
I seriously printed at least 20 of each of these while I dialed in my settings:
ASAP, move over to PLA. Prints so much nicer for me than ABS.
Oh, before you go to PLA, make sure you print 3x of the layer fans housings (not just 1x) and order up 2 more of the "squirrel cage" fans (centrifugal fans) from SeeMeCNC. edit: I spliced the single pair of layer-fan wires into three right at the connectors, I didn't bother running extra wire for them.
Oh, and one other big improvement I made was putting connectors in-line with the hot-end and for all the fans. This way, if I have to replace a fan or upgrade the hot-end I don't have to cut and splice wires, I can just pop it off and connectorize another new one. Here are the connectors I used:
That was probably too much info -- just take your time and try not to get frustrated while you get things all set up. It is not a plug-'n-play object, it requires care and feeding.
... oh, and have fun! Whatcha gonna print?
I guess people want to know a little more. There's plenty of tutorials online, so do some google work if you want a more in-depth description.
Materials/Tools:
Process:
And then you're basically all done. It took me probably an hour or less. Total cost for one holster (because I was able to make 2 holsters off of one 12"x12" sheet), was about $6-$7, with the bulk of the cost being the clips. I'll try and answer any other questions others have.
I bought the same thing for my v1:
12"x12" 0.03" PEI
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0013HKZTA/
(6) 12x12" 3M Adhesive Transfer Tape:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007Y7D5NQ/
At the time there were no practical cheaper/smaller options (although the extra 3M adhesive does come in handy).
... I scored/snapped the sheet into 4 pieces, and I'm still on the first PEI sheet after like 300 hours. It still looks flawless. I only use sharp scraper blades or no tools to remove parts. If you're printing something crazy in a cold room, you can add hairspray, but for the most part, PEI has perfect adhesion on it's own.
I definitely recommend the thicker PEI (0.03"+), as it makes the MPSM bed much more rigid. I don't have to bend the aluminum bed "flat again" anymore. I dont worry about bending the bed when ripping parts off the bed, even with super high adhesion.
Clean it with alcohol, not sandpaper.
DiiCooler, Z braces, thumbscrews for bed leveling, and the melzi temp fix are all common mods that I can recommend. You could also get the all Metal Hot end from Micro Swiss but I have not done this myself.
As for supplies, I would recommend getting a sheet of PEI and some 3M adhesive to stick it to the print bed. PEI is a great, low maintenance print surface that prints stick to very well even without any form of fixative to improve bed adhesion. If you don't go that route I would say get some buildtak to put on the print bed with washable gluestick depending on the filament you use. Basically you don't want to be printing directly on to the bed as there is a hole where the thermistor comes through.
Other than that, just get extra filament and have fun with it.
For a holster have you thought of using kydex? You could build a perfect little holster that looks like it was made for it. The stuff is really easy/fun to work with.
Does this light put out 180L with a normal 1.5/1.2v AAA or just with a 10440 @ 3.7V?
As far as a suggestion for a 10440 this one works for me. Do not bother with Trustfire. Both of my Trustfire 104440s are shot.
I don't think you're going to find much with this little guy as far as mods go. Really just playing around with how long it can handle a 10440 will be fun. Be careful I have had a few AAA/10440 flashlights that will only function on 104440 after using one in it and the other flat out stopped working. (Thorfire I think it was.) Just a reminder to not let it heat up too much is all. My OLight AAA goes with me everywhere even when I have my S1 clipped in my pocket just because it's so small and a great thing to hand to someone when they ask "can I use your flashlight".
For the plexiglass, I think you can get something like this:
http://www.homedepot.com/p/OPTIX-24-in-x-48-in-x-093-in-Acrylic-Sheet-MC-13/202038048
or this:
https://www.amazon.com/Acrylic-Plexiglass-Plastic-Sheet-24/dp/B00C13ZSBA
Honestly, I just walked into a Home Depot and asked for a big sheet of plexiglass. It was about $25. Someone above suggested that Hobby Lobby may be cheaper.
Here's the battlemat:
https://www.amazon.com/Chessex-Role-Playing-Play-Mat/dp/B0015IQO2O
Grab some whiteboard markers, and the whole thing will run you about $50. But honestly, I've used this same setup for 4 years and it's been great.
A few thoughts:
While I've never had success with a Rep2X and PLA (except for one roll this one time), it sounds like you've got it extruding fairly well at this point.
So your current difficulty is getting the print to stay stuck to the bed? I'd recommend getting a sheet of PEI (I use 0.03" thickness) like this:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0013HKZTA
Then cut it to size and stick it to your print bed with this:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007Y7CZ32
I've had awesome success with PEI and PLA. It sticks great until it cools down, then it comes off easily. Print with the bed at 50C.
Sure!
Basically, you need a few things: kydex sheet, heat gun (or oven, if you wanna do this at home), thermofoam, some wooden planks and G-clamps, hacksaw (Dremel would be better), eyelet (make sure you have the correct length and size) and eyelet setter, and teklok (belt attachment).
First, you wanna cut the kydex into the size that you want to use. I used taco style, so I wanna make sure the sheet can hug my knife.
Then you heat up the kydex sheet with the heat gun (or oven) until it becomes soft. Put the knife between the kydex sheet taco style. Press it hard with the thermofoam. Sandwich the thermofoam with wood planks and secure it with the G-clamps. After a few minutes, the kydex will cool down and you will have a roughly shaped sheath.
Draw outline on the sheath with pencil based on how you want the sheath to look like. Trim the sheath to size using hacksaw (or Dremel). Give about an inch slack from the blade area of the sheath.
Drill some holes on the sheath. I used 1/4" drill bit since I am using 1/4" eyelet. I also made sure that the holes are aligned with teklok holes, so I can attach the teklok using those holes (I messed this part up). Set the eyelet on those holes.
You are basically done here. You could use some sandpaper (or Dremel with sanding attachment) to smooth the edges of your sheath.
Hope this helps. There are many different guides out there, if you find mine confusing.
Cheers.
Chessex dice clear cases can be combined to make a 3-inch high riser, marking a 15 foot height. These are really easy to come by in most groups.
Clear acrylic rods and clear 1.5 inch bases can be obtained from Amazon for pretty cheap. Superglue, and you've got some flight risers. Highly recommend if your whole party will be using them throughout the campaign.
To give an opinion contrary to Linkdead404's, I think the heated bed is absolutely worth it. I only print in PLA, and I dealt with the painters tape on the Printrbot Metal for a long time. After I got my Rostock and used the heated bed with PLA, I upgraded the Printrbot as well. Everything sticks like glue and comes out super flat. I also have a sheet of PEI on the print bed of both printers which lets me print with nothing more than a quick wipe off with rubbing alcohol. So awesome.
Edit: I should have put this as a reply to OP. I bought the $99 upgrade kit, you also need a power supply, which I got on sale from Newegg.
OP delivers. To answer your questions Judge
You'd really only have to spend $20 to make the forearms and the plastron. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009AEKJVW/
You could make yourself a custom plastron from any breastplate pattern online.
I wouldn't use the lighter ones because I'm unsure what the protection is like. The 800n fabric they use is really thick and has some weight to it. That by itself is a good thing because that mass will help protect you. Also, it's my opinion that one shouldn't skimp on protection. Save the money, buy the better thing and you wont regret it. Buy the cheap one and there is a higher chance of regret.
I recently stopped using blue tape and switched to PEI sheets on glass. I'll never go back. I think this would be a good thing for you to try, the PEI sheet releases pretty easily once cool.
PEI (Polyetherimide) Sheet, Opaque Natural, Standard Tolerance, ASTM D5205 PEI0113, 0.03" Thickness, 12" Width, 12" Length https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0013HKZTA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_j.9Dxb7FAEG3J
TapeCase 12" squares (pack of 6), Converted from 3M 468MP Adhesive Transfer Tape https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007Y7D5NQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_S.9DxbBW56J7Z
I have several upgrades in the queue for this weekend once my M3 hardware kit comes in:
(Note the above designs are all three by USWaterRockets, who seems to have exceptional engineering skills, but I haven't installed them yet. Hopefully, this weekend and I'll post results)
Another one I'm considering next:
Here is the E3D-v6 adapter I currently have on the printer:
Note the above design is just a quick-and-dirty solution; the author even states this. It works and will get you what you need to get things going with the new head.
Other upgrades I've done:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007Y7D5NQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0013HKZTA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Here's the E3D-v6 printhead I bought and it's worked well: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01H4V2QEK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Disclaimer: I'm new to 3D printing. This is my first printer and the learning curve is steep. I may look back on this posting in a year and think "what an idiot I was doing <this>". Take my advice with a grain of salt, as I'm muddling through this whole thing. YMMV
Easy enough, you mentioned that it is going on a project box.
You could either cut out the entire shape from the box, use that as a template on some translucent acrylic sheet and cut that. Do the same for the inner piece.
The only issue I see with this option is that the cuts need to be precise, in order to line up nicely. Something like Bondo could fill the gaps, if you get any.
The other option still uses the acrylic piece, but places it on top of the project box. Holes or gaps would have to be cut/drilled into the project box, beneath the acrylic.
This should be the easier of the two options. The downside here is that depending on how you place the gaps, there could be hot spots of light.
The first option provides a flush transition from box to shape, while the second has it tacked to the top. Both are viable, it just depends how much work you want to throw at it.
Something like this for the acrylic The light blue one looks close to what you have for the colour.
I cover my battle mats with these clear plastic sheets, much like acrylic glass. I usually use wet erase markers, though sometimes dry erase. I have had zero trouble with staining since I started using these, even when using red (which tends to stain) and leaving the markings on for weeks.
Apart from preserving your grid, this allows some interesting techniques. You can overlay one sheet upon another, for instance, creating layers. You can also draw on both sides of a sheet, so that you can quickly erase and re-draw things on the top while preserving the markings on the bottom.
Credit where it's due: I got this from Seth Skorkowsky, who is quite the font of good ideas.
Buy a large sheet of HDPE plastic and a plastic cutter to hack it into the size you want. I bought this https://www.amazon.com/Vycom-906686-Seaboard-Density-Polyethylene/dp/B00K2QT1XO which works great as a hard mousepad. Cutting it in half (the only way it can fit on my desk, and it is still huge) gives you two sheets. Since the material is the same on both sides you get 4 huge hardpad surfaces to play on for $20.
This is what I used. Score with a razor and straight edge and snap. Glued a piece the size of the SX350 in with some clear epoxy and stuck the chip on top of that. Careful of using too much glue. mine bled a little into the visible area. The only thing I wish I did was get some one way mirrored film to cover the plex with to make it look nicer.
Most people use plexiglas or something like this:https://www.amazon.com/Icona-Bay-Replacement-Material-Shattering/dp/B01N7MLF3D
Or you could just buy a cheap 36x24 poster frame and use the plastic protector from it but in my experience those are pretty easy to crack/shatter at the edges so cutting it down would be hard.
Two options: laminate some thin panels to the walls. Either FRP or hardboard. FRP will reist scuffs better, but both will save your walls.
Or mount some vertical rails every ~12" or so. You could get aluminum bar stock or some UHMW cut in to ~3/4" strips. This will give it something to glide on. You could mount some of those on the floor, too, to save your flooring from the sliding.
Also known as Ultem, it can be purchased here from CSHyde. There are several options there for size and thickness. The bonus is that these sheets come with adhesive already laminated to the sheet. I believe you can also get custom sizes, although larger sheets are no problem to cut to size.
Alternatively (and probably more common), you can purchase PEI sheets here on Amazon. The recommended adhesive (transfer tape) is here, and there may be other sizes for both available on Amazon as well as wBay.
The whole idea on using PEI as a print surface is that you get good print adhesion with most common print materials. Using a heated bed with PEI works great for getting prints to stick while warm, and also pop off of the print bed fairly easily as the bed cools.
I went with the stuff from CSHyde for convenience, but I think most users here are going with the Amazon stuff (they have thicker sheets which many users prefer as it can last longer before needing replacement).
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0013HKZTA/ref=biss_dp_t_asn
http://www.amazon.com/TapeCase-squares-Converted-Adhesive-Transfer/dp/B007Y7D5NQ/
Do note I am using a rostock, but psi will work on all regardless, it's also acetone resistant, so you could clean really easily
Bought one of these half racks in great shape for $100: https://www.dickssportinggoods.com/p/fitness-gear-2017-pro-half-rack-16fgeufgprhlfrckxgmu/16fgeufgprhlfrckxgmu.
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Good rack, but the standard J hooks were covered in a nasty rubber that created rubber dust when the bar slid against it. Decided to cover the J hooks in UHMW instead.
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Materials needed:
12x12x1/4" UHMW sheet (don't buy less than 1/4" thickness since you are going to be countersinking the screw holes): https://www.amazon.com/Molecular-Polyethylene-Standard-Tolerance-Thickness/dp/B00CPRDLAW/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1493150072&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=uhmw
Drill/drill bits
Phillips #2 screwdriver
Countersink bit (1/2" works well, something similar to this would be fine, it doesn't have to be a titanium coated bit since you're only counter sinking the uhmw): https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000F3SI2O/ref=mp_s_a_1_7?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1493158184&amp;sr=1-7&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&amp;keywords=Countersink+bit&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=51fQXRD5ZuL&amp;ref=plSrch
A tap (I used 12-24 NC)
4 machine screws (I used 12-24 x 1/2")
Jigsaw or hacksaw (for cutting the UHMW)
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Drill pilot holes in the J hooks, then run a tap through it to create threads for the screws. Go slow with the tap and use oil when tapping the threads. Cut the UHMW sheet to size with a saw. I tried using a hacksaw, but a jigsaw created much cleaner and straighter edges. Once the UHMW pieces are cut to fit your rack's J hooks, drill and countersink the screw holes in the UHMW. Attach the UHMW with the machine screws and you're done! UHMW doesn't work well with adhesives, so using screws is a more secure method of mounting the pads.
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Once you've tapped the screw holes in the J hooks, it's very easy to replace the UHMW if it ever wears out. Just unscrew the old UHMW pads and attach a new pair.
I buy this stuff: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00K2Q73UW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I really like it because I can cut it with a craft knife or strong scissors, unlike MDF. Its just easier to work with and a little bit lighter.
It looks like a piece of gray acrylic. Acrylic gives that lovely reflection on jewelry. I actually use a white piece of acrylic for my photos. You can order it in different colors on Amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/Cast-Acrylic-Sheet-Transparent-0-118/dp/B00JB7FEEU
Some pvc with wall flanges on either side to make an I shape would let you get just enough height to relieve some of the stress on the bottom plastic bit without reducing the stability of the case.
Plus, if it's a white case, it's gonna blend in pretty well.
Edit: I assume it's in the curved bit of the plastic bottom part that is breaking?
An alternative to feet would be to use some stiff sheet material, maybe something like [this] (http://smile.amazon.com/dp/B006FLZ03A) (amazon).
Cut it to fit between the the bottom of the case and the plastic feet of the case and glue it in place. That way, the weight of the case is going more through this piece than the curved part of those plastic feet.
Clear acrylic rods (these) and blue/green sharpie.
Edit: and actually my go to for lightsabers is fishing line, far less prone to breaking and thin like OG/Rebels sabers. Prequel sabres are nice and chonky though.
Another option is using a PEI sheet (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0013HKZTA?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf ). I personally use a mirror and PEI. Nice flat surface with great hold. If you don't have an IKEA near you, Home Depot has a 12 pack of mirrors for $20.
I've had good success with .03inch thickness (0.762mm)
That's a bit thicker than you would tend to find, but it has the benefit that you can use high grit sandpaper to resurface it many many times. I'm about 200 prints in on my first sheet, and I suspect it'll outlast the printer if I don't break the mirror tile it's on. (the sizes are awkward on this listing unless you have a 12x12 build surface like I use)
https://www.amazon.com/Polyetherimide-Natural-Standard-Tolerance-Thickness/dp/B00CPRDDLY/ref=sr_1_1?s=industrial&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1502675019&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=pei
Amazon is actually pretty good for this kind of stuff: https://www.amazon.com/Molecular-Polyethylene-Standard-Tolerance-Thickness/dp/B00CPRDLAW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1475004240&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=uhmw
You could overnight some Kydex from Amazon and put together a sheath quickly using that. It would be much easier and much quicker than anything you could do with leather, given that you don't have any leather or tools. The link above is showing 2 sheets for $10 and is Amazon Prime (so free 2 day delivery).
I think an acrylic panel (that is thick enough supported) would work well. You can cut it with a saw and could purchase it clear or white which I'm sure would match your refrigerator. Check Amazon. It can be scratched though so I might go with white instead of clear.
it's pretty easy to get UHMW sheet
http://www.amazon.com/Molecular-Weight-Polyethylene-Standard-Tolerance/dp/B00CPRDLAW
Buy ptfe off amazon. http://www.amazon.com/Chemfluor-D1069279-PTFE-Film-Wide/dp/B002TG3WS0/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1413397324&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=ptfe+roll
Much thicker than slicksheet and lasts for ever if you treat it right. I pay someone once a week to come in and clean my sheets with iso then theyre brand new again.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009YLIOV8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s01?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
I got one of those packs, works well with my projects.
I found better prices on amazon that anywhere else, just need patience and time to check all the options, also buy in bulk, it's way cheaper than sites that sell in packs of 100 units (rivets for example)
Oh yeah. Sticks so well that, if the bed is heated, you can't even get the finished object off of it until you wait for it to cool to room temperature without the risk of damaging it.
Amazing stuff that no one should be without.
This is the stuff I have - http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0013HKZTA/ref=biss_dp_t_asn
Put it on with this - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007Y7D5NQ/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
I used the Windex+credit card trick for both sides of the adhesive.
Cut it to size with an Xacto knife score and a metal rule. Snaps just like plexi.
You can see it in the original pic. He's sitting on a big yellow slab of the stuff. If you use a Z sensor you'll have to adjust for the height and so on.
https://www.amazon.com/Small-Parts-KYDEX-V-Sheet/dp/B00KDMLJ0A
http://www.harborfreight.com/1500-watt-dual-temperature-heat-gun-572-1112-96289.html
You can make your own fin grip pretty easily
I used a combination of [magnetic sheets with adhesive] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003XNAHMC/ref=ya_aw_oh_bia_dp?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1) and a PEI sheet. Works like a charm
edit: here's some pics of when I was putting it together: https://imgur.com/gallery/kvChO
You can get a 12"x24" sheet of Kydex for pretty cheap. Amazon carries ~1/8" thick sheet of the stuff for about $12.50. You can soften it in an oven or with a heat gun to shape it. It is easy to cut by scoring it with a utility knife and snapping it along the score line. You can also cut/drill holes in it to make attachment points for organization.
If there's no software solution, maybe cutting, taping or sanding the edges so its safer, and taping a small thin piece of plexiglass, lexan, or something transparent on the switch screen would work.
https://www.amazon.com/Lexan-Sheet-Polycarbonate-Thick-Nominal/dp/B00520AR9C
It just needs to be thick enough so the capacitance is not picked up.
If you don't want to tape it to the switch itself, maybe attaching it to a case like this might be more palatable.
https://www.amazon.com/Compatible-Nintendo-Multi-Functional-3-Angle-Protective-Protect/dp/B06XBRF7N4
Though there are tape that won't leave residue.
Unlike an iPad or iPhone or something, you won't lose any functionality doing this as the touch screen is optional and the switch is fully accessible from the controller since it needs to be usable if only in a TV.
It's a specific material that has properties allowing most fdm materials to stick very well too (PETG too well at times). There is a ton of information in forums on that bed surface.
You usually buy a sheet about 30 thou (0.03") thick and stick straight to the aluminium heatbed or on to the glass bed with 3M double sided.
I bought this one: PEI amazon.ca
But here are tons of suppliers around depending where you are located.
Shops specializing in model trains will usually have a Plastruct or Evergreen plastic display. That would be the best way to buy just enough for this project. You can buy way more of them than you'll need on Amazon though.
You can cut acrylic sheets easily with a circular saw, band saw, table saw, etc. The edges do not have to be perfect since it will be hidden in the frame.
http://www.amazon.com/Acrylic-Plexiglass-Plastic-Sheet-24/dp/B00C13ZSBA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1462206658&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=acrylic+24x36
Edit: depending on your frame, 1/4" might be too thick. I believe it is common to use 1/8" for framing.
Just in case you change your mind it has been amazing for me
I use this now. I had to sand the edges and stuff, but it is a nice and large hardpad.
Here are some pictures that I took of it a while back.
Any cutting board made of high density polyethylene (HDPE) should do, or you could just get a large board like this in the size you want.
stuff like this - https://www.amazon.com/Seaboard-Density-Polyethylene-Finish-Length/dp/B00JPHTIES/ref=sxin_13_ac_d_rm?keywords=hdpe+sheet&pd_rd_i=B00JPHTIES&pd_rd_r=dd15ad70-7a36-4a2c-b07a-7f3801f9c4cb&pd_rd_w=csGJ0&pd_rd_wg=2UPvX&pf_rd_p=b3dd82c1-af3b-4cc4-a37f-5ce666fd2ce2&pf_rd_r=XXTYQRAAKD721AFJE4BD&qid=1559133144&s=gateway
https://www.amazon.com/PolyCarve-Density-Polyethylene-Finish-Length/dp/B00JPIB0C0/ref=sr_1_9?keywords=hdpe+sheet&qid=1559133144&s=gateway&sr=8-9
be warned that it can be REALLY slick.
To account for swaying I planned on using a poorman's treehouse sliding bracket system with a uhmw spacer. I'll leave 3 to 4 inches lateral "play" to give the tree enough room to dance.
https://www.amazon.com/Molecular-Weight-Polyethylene-Standard-Tolerance/dp/B000ILJZF2?th=1&amp;psc=1
Thanks for the rubber tire trick. I have a few old tires stashed around the property. But when you say rubber between the anchors please help me envision this, are you saying put rubber between the tree and beam so on the side to side motion the beam does not smack the tree sideways and damage the tree that way?
Haha - I did feel a little weird purchasing from them, because I'm really not rucking that hard :)
Rather just trying to carry a bunch of stuff around a live out of a backpack.
I've seen some other folks purchase a kydex sheet, trace the current frame sheet, then cut it down.
>The price is decent.
Not really, make sure you're thinking of the right thickness. The 0.03" sheet most people use from Amazon is $30 for 12x24".
CS Hyde's price is $40 for 12x12", and only 0.02" thick too. You're basically paying 5x as much as the Amazon price. Sure it already comes adhesive backed, but is that really worth it?
Congrats on your decision! Hope you enjoy it as much as I do.
As far as the auto bed leveling kit, it's brand spankin new and it's the first time I'm seeing it. There were rumors on here of MTW releasing that. Manual bed leveling with the clips that come with the kit were a huge pain in the ass; there was too much play and you need a hex key to level it. I printed Easy bed levelers which are light years better. Manual bed leveling now takes just a quick couple minutes, which I only do after a handful of prints. While you're at it consider these for your printer, too (not necessary but will make your life a lot easier once you start printing):
http://www.amazon.com/Polyetherimide-Off-White-Standard-Tolerance-PEI0113/dp/B00CPRDDLY
GREAT material for printing adhesion. NO glue, no hairspray, just clean it every once in a while with alcohol
You can buy it on amazon. Like here
As a word to the wise, be careful if using a dremel, especially with thicker stuff ( I used .128" Kydex). Cutting wheels like to pull away and spew melted material and dust. The stuff isn't exactly compliant, which is why they use it for cutting boards.
I simply traced out the material off an existing frame sheet and cut it on a scroll saw. Then cleaned edges with a file. You can find a link to .118" Kydex from Amazon here. I got some in .128" from a material supply place. The thicker it is, the more rigid you'll get.
this is what I use its a lot thicker than the slick sheet. It keeps its shape much better and doesn't fold in on the oil.
I ordered this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0006O6QXU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
&#x200B;
Enough to do way more lightsabers than I'll ever need. Just trimmed it to size, filed the end to be rounded, and then colored with a red sharpie. Once dry I sealed it with gloss varnish. I recommend attaching the blade before coloring with sharpie so you don't smudge it with fingerprints.
&#x200B;
I also picked up a neon green, blue, and yellow sharpie... Plenty of blade colors.
To add onto what /u/breda076 said, if you wanted to reinforce it then getting something like a piece of polycarbonate and gluing it (or you could fiberglass it into the wing if you want to get fancy) onto the bottom of the spoiler should suffice.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0013HKZTA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
that's what i ordered for my printer. i have the same one, but i use simplify3D. totally worth the money.
Various sizes of these acrylic rods http://www.amazon.com/Plastruct-Ar-2h-Clear-Rod-Pls90291/dp/B0006O6QXU/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1451920752&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=acrylic+rod#customerReviews molded to shape by heating them, then painting with clear paint may yield the effect you are looking for.
I use the clamp, but I put a small square of plywood underneath and a small square of HDPE on the underside of the top of the clamp(the visible portion on my desktop) to spread the pressure and make it a little more sturdy. It also adds a nice little tapering effect.
I didn't want to drill through because I am not totally certain what the veeners are filled with in the spaces that don't have screw holes for the legs...
Just to clarify your clarification, something like this?
https://www.amazon.com/Polyetherimide-Off-White-Standard-Tolerance-PEI0113/dp/B00CPRDDLY
Buy a textured HDPE sheet off of Amazon. Works fine, highly durable and doesn't have an issue with any sensors I've used on it.
https://www.amazon.com/Seaboard-Density-Polyethylene-Finish-Length/dp/B00K2QT1XO/
http://www.amazon.com/Plastruct-AR-4H-Clear-Rod-PLS90292/dp/B0006O6QYO
they have diff sizes, these are the 1/8 in ones. will fit in a hg stand hole with a lil sanding.
[PEI for $17] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0013HKZTA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1) this will last you for a long time (Through many many prints) if you are careful with it.
[Transfer tape for sticking PEI to buildplate] (https://www.amazon.com/Gizmo-Dorks-Adhesive-Transfer-Sheets/dp/B01HP2CEG8)
[Here is a site with more information] (http://reprap.org/wiki/PEI_build_surface)
Edit: For immediate printing buy a cut sheet of glass from the glass or hardware store, then spray 2 layers of [Aqua net extra strength super hold unscented] (http://www.walmart.com/ip/Aqua-Net-Extra-Super-Hold-3-Unscented-Hair-Spray-11-Oz/10997068) it must be this brand and product. Or you could match ingredients. This method will work for fairly large prints but is not as good as PEI. After each print just spray another coat of hairspray.
http://www.amazon.com/KYDEX-Sheet-0-028-Thick-Black/dp/B00KDMLJ0A/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1451183913&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=Kydex
http://www.amazon.com/Grommet-Eyelet-Setting-Pliers-Grommets/dp/B0047AKK0Y/ref=sr_1_10?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1451183913&amp;sr=8-10&amp;keywords=Kydex
I used things like these, my oven, and a YouTube tutorial. Kydex, when heated is very pliable, and cools solid. If you mess up, you can heat and remold again. You only need .06 thickness, any thicker is left to gun holsters. I then use an old belt to help mold a g-clip from a Kydex strip, and thats really it. I haven't bought a sheath in many years. Any further questions, just reply, I'll check back in the morning.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00K2QT1XO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Does that look okay?
While $55 does seem a little high for a magazine release with the amount of engineering, marketing, and production the price is reasonable, especially if you do not want to register.
There is also the Patriot Mag Lock for $45 or the classic Prince50 for $17
Where are you finding grip wraps for $150? a Monsterman Grip is $45
an Exile Machine Hammerhead Grip is $30
If you want a Thordsen FRS-15 or a Hera Arms Featureless Stock Then you will be spending ~$150
Of course you could make your own Kydex grip wrap for $11 plus [hardware] (https://smile.amazon.com/Kydex-Holster-Black-Eyelets-Count/dp/B00NKOX0B4/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1483519643&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=kydex) and a heat gun
GOD PEI WHEN WILL PEOPLE REALIZE THAT THEY DONT NEED HAIRSPRAY OR TAPE OR GLASS OR VOODOO MAGIC BECAUSE PEI WORKS BETTER THAN ALL OF THOSE
FUCKING PEI EVERYONE
EDIT: PEI FFS
This is the sheet I used for my Taz (I used .06in.) and can attest it is most definately solid PEI and quite durable. It makes very shiny parts.
I get the raw PEI because I have some high temperature tape available at the makerspace. That one is probably fine, too.
Just in case anyone would like to make their own, I found everything on Amazon except the screws and nylon belts. Those I just grabbed at Home Depot and Hobby Lobby.
Clips:
Kydex:
There are enough sheets here to make 4 belts. I took a 12x12in sheet and cut it in half for my belt.
UHMW polyethylene will work - you can cut it and dress it like wood - get a 1/2" thick piece, cut to fit the bottom of your workbench legs, countersink and screw it in place - here's a page from a bench-build that has pictures -
I know last time this was mentioned, someone said that you may just have to buy a large sheet of HDPE plastic like this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00K2QT1XO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
and just cut it to whatever shape you need.
yup, here's some basically, measure, cut, and use a riser glued to the back of the network card, or if the network card has riser slots, attach risers to those.
Cut with a hacksaw, make sure it's a bit too large (a mm or two, not too much), sand the edges with fine sandpaper down to size.
Pro tip, if it has a plastic covering on it (most do), LEAVE THAT ON UNTIL AFTER you sand the edges... makes sure the faces don't get scratched
Amazon has them for $22. Match with one of these to attach it.
The actual product doesn't have that weird edge, it's just a flat sheet.
I would actually go with foam core PVC board It's pretty sturdy, relatively inexpensive, and comes in various widths and colors, and can be cut with a sharp razor blade. 'Celtec' is the brand name, and it also comes under 'Sintra' and a few others. It can also be shaped into non-complex curves with a heat gun so you could get the curves on the shield without a problem
I saw this solution called Wolfbite on Tested last year. Its supposed to work with PETG too to prevent warping, but I haven't personally used it.
You could also try a sheet of PEI over your glass bed.
im thinking of making the wings out of this
http://www.amazon.com/KYDEX-Sheet-0-060-Thick-Calcutta/dp/B009YLIOV8/ref=pd_sim_op_4?ie=UTF8&amp;refRID=18FTBE14ND9CDKZA80EX
I ordered some test samples
Make one
https://www.amazon.com/Polyetherimide-Off-White-Standard-Tolerance-PEI0113/dp/B00CPRDDLY
pick up a 12" x 12" x 0.03" sheet and never look back.
You need to get yourself some PEI
https://www.amazon.com/Polyetherimide-Off-White-Standard-Tolerance-PEI0113/dp/B00CPRDDLY
I use two methods for displaying planes in flight:
Are these the plastruct acrylic rods you're looking for?
http://www.amazon.com/Plastruct-Ar-2h-Clear-Rod-Pls90291/dp/B0006O6QXU/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1420864369&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=plastruct+acrylic+rod
pei sheet
adhesive
http://www.amazon.com/Polyetherimide-Off-White-Standard-Tolerance-PEI0113/dp/B00CPRDDLY
AmazonSmile Link: Cast Acrylic Sheet, Translucent Black, 12" x 12" x 0.118" Size
^Use&nbsp;AmazonSmile&nbsp;to&nbsp;donate&nbsp;0.5%&nbsp;of&nbsp;your&nbsp;purchase&nbsp;price&nbsp;to&nbsp;a&nbsp;charity&nbsp;of&nbsp;your&nbsp;choice&nbsp;at&nbsp;no&nbsp;extra&nbsp;cost&nbsp;to&nbsp;you.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0013HKZTA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
AND
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007Y7D5NQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
I got this PEI with this adhesive.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002TG3WS0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
id have posted it earlier but i was on my phone before
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B0013HKZTA/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0013HKZTA?psc=1&amp;redirect=true&amp;ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s01
Here is the version I've used, for your reference.
Kydex Sheets on Amazon. They're 12x12 or 12x24 and you need to cut them down.
This is fixable. Get a 1/8" inch thick wood board (like craft plywood). Cut it to the size of the control panel. You may need two side by side, if you cant find a big enough piece. Then use Liquid Nails to adhere it to the top of the control panel (use a cheap paint brush so it's a smooth even coat. Then re-drill the holes.
Or if you can still remove the control panel, you glue it on then trim off the extra with a box knife.
Edit: If the holes are bigger than the the underside of the buttons, use 1/4" inch thick wood board. Do not pin the buttons to only the 1/8" board. If you use 1/4" you can also use seaboard.
In used this PEI sheet: https://amzn.com/B0013HKZTA
And this adhesive: https://amzn.com/B007Y7CZDM
Try to get the adhesive down as smoothly and evenly as possible. No overlaps or gaps if possible. I scored and snapped the PEI to match the build plate, then applied the tape to the PEI, then applied that to the bed.
You could try an HDPE surface such as this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00K2QT1XO/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER
If you wipe it off with Lemon Pledge in addition, the glide should be even faster. Not my video, but you can see how well it glides here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dI1O1-CpeBs
The only problem is that these surfaces may cause 3310 sensors to malfunction, so I'd suggest against buying one if you have a mouse that sports one of these.
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0013HKZTA/ref=biss_dp_t_asn
attach to glass or aluminum plate with
http://www.amazon.com/TapeCase-468MP-12in-Adhesive-Transfer/dp/B00P7K7T84/ref=sr_1_4?s=industrial&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1449086424&amp;sr=1-4&amp;keywords=pei
i used 2" tape i'd suggest 3" or so -- it doesn't unroll clean, teh adhesive sticks
or buy a thick sheet of pei. and just use that. (but thats damn expensive)
Do you have any left over bits you can check for a film? Maybe the film was removed when the adhesive was applied, but it still seems odd that PET isn't sticking.
This is the PEI I bought
For the 1mm PEI sheets I have (roughly 12x12") I paid something like $15 each via Amazon (link https://www.amazon.com/Polyetherimide-Off-White-Standard-Tolerance-PEI0113/dp/B00CPRDDLY). The thicker sheets are far more expensive but there's absolutely no point in getting thicker sheets.
The prints pop right off once it has cooled down a little. I'd estimate once it gets down under 70°C it's simple to remove. I'm not all that patient and want to get at things as soon as they are done. It's not fun to try and remove prints while the bed is hot. I'm rarely successful at it. Also there's no need to worry about messing up the PEI if you decide to try and remove a print while it is hot. The PEI is still super hard even when 100°C.
Just a word on PEI: All Lulzbot printers now come with a PEI sheet pre-installed, and it works wonderfully for several months until bubbles form and soon you have to replace it. But if that's what you like, cool.
Do note of course that you can buy large sheets of plain PEI on Amazon, along with adhesive sheets, allowing you to install PEI on any printer. If you're lazy, Gizmodorks also sells pre-cut PEI sheets with adhesive already attached.
But also be warned: if the LB autoleveling process somehow screws up because of poor electrical contact and doesn't realize it, your PEI gets messed up real quick, and replacing PEI, as you may know, is quite the pita.