Reddit mentions: The best plastic sheets

Sorry for the potato quality.

Made of kydex. Used barrel nuts, screws and plastic weld for the adjustable part. Neoprene liner to protect the stock.

First attempt. Pretty sloppy with some of the cuts for the Velcro straps, will probably use a plunge cutter on the router next time.

Edit: How to and parts.

Here's an album of it disassembled: http://imgur.com/a/Hx72f

Threw this together quick, so sorry if its not exact, but it should give you an idea.

The parts aren't exact, go to lowes or home depot and play around with what fits best for your application and make sure all the screws screw what you want...

The Hillman Group 1/4-in Zinc-Plated Standard (SAE) Brad Hole Tee Nut - http://www.lowes.com/ProductDisplay?partNumber=137342-37672-880539&langId=-1&storeId=10151&productId=3012548&catalogId=10051&cmRelshp=req&rel=nofollow&cId=PDIO1

The Hillman Group 20-Count #10-24 x 3/8-in Button-Head Plain Steel Allen-Drive Socket Cap Screw - http://www.lowes.com/pd_426315-37672-43560_1z0vrds+1z0yjl3+1z0yjot__?productId=4212340&Ns=p_product_qty_sales_dollar|1&pl=1&currentURL=%3FNs%3Dp_product_qty_sales_dollar|1%26page%3D1&facetInfo=0.375|#10

The Hillman Group 4-Count #10 x 3/8-in Nylon Standard (SAE) Flat Washer - http://www.lowes.com/pd_139065-37672-881544_0__?productId=3013084&Ntt=nylon+washers&pl=1&currentURL=%3FNtt%3Dnylon%2Bwashers&facetInfo=

Devcon 22045 Plastic Welder - 25 ml Dev-Tube - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003NUGL9S/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

KYDEX V Sheet - 0.080" Thick, Black, 12" x 12" Nominal, 8PACK - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009AEKJVW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Sponge Neoprene 1/16" Thick X 54" Wide X 1' - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009K7M1TW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Others things:
Velcro

I found a caliper to be useful ( I have a cheap harbor freight one, doesn’t need to be anything special)

Straight edge

Exacto Knife

Old mouse pad

3m Formula 77

Super Glue

painters tape


Here we go…
First I made a template using some thick card stock paper. I used an old file folder. Cut out the desired shape that will be the bottom layer. Make another template for the riser (this is where the caliper, straight edge, and exacto came in handy).

Cut out the shapes on your kydex. I used a table saw, for quick accurate cuts, however, I’ve heard people use a razor to score and snap the kydex ( I didn’t have much luck with this, I think the .08 kydex is too thick to do this cleanly).
Mark where you would like the tee-bolts and velcro straps to go on the bottom layer. I put the tee bolts slightly above center. Drill your holes using a bit as close to the thickness of the tee-bolt post as you can get, this helps prevent wobbles. Match the post holes on the second sheet of kydex, then measuring half an inch (doesn’t have to be half an inch, could be closer or farther depending on what you’d like) from center add as many additional holes as you desire. Make any drills and cuts before you mold, it will make life easier. Also draw center lines for points of reference.

I wrapped the stock in the neoprene to account for the added thickness during molding. (I eventually glue the neoprene to the inside of the mold to help protect the stock.

Heat the kydex and shape around neoprene covered stock. (Note, mark center points on the kydex and neoprene to easily align).

Tape the freshly molded kydex to the stock. You’ll mold on top of this soon and don’t want it shifting.
Wrap the old mouse pad on the base mold and secure with tape. The second mold will need to be a little wider so it rests on the posts nicely.

Heat the second layer of kydex and mold on top of the mouse pad. Again, pay attention to the center.

After they’ve cooled completely, remove them.

Apply the plastic weld to the tee-posts. Insert the tee-bolts in to the base layer so they are sticking outwards. I like the brad holes, as the plastic weld gets pushed out, they help secure them to the kydex when torque is applied. Wipe away any excess.

After the plastic weld has set, spray the inside of the mold with the formula 77 and insert the neoprene. The neoprene helps protect the stock from the metal tee bolts. This is optional, I did it to protect the stock. This can be tricky, use more neoprene then you’ll need and cut out the excess, that way you get good coverage.

Grab the nylon washers and put them on the tee bolt posts, I super glued these to the kydex to make life easier. You want the washer to be slightly thicker then the posts are high, this way the second piece of kydex is setting on the nylon washer and not the metal posts. Depending on which washers you have, you may want to stack a few on top of each other and glue them.

After every thing has set, attach the second mold of kydex and use the screws to attach to the posts. Adjust height as needed.

Edit two...
Also my cuts for the velcro are very sloppy, I should have used a router or my rotary tool, I may be retarded.

Model by youngs66 on thingiverse: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1753445
Printed with Hatchbox PLA at 0.16 layer height on my Ender 3. Whole project took about 3 weeks, but I couldn't be happier with the resultsModel by youngs66 on thingiverse: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1753445
Printed with Hatchbox PLA at 0.16 layer height on my Ender 3. Whole project took about 3 weeks, but I couldn't be happier with the results

Edit: thought I'd give a more complete outline of the process since people seem to be interested:

Printing
As stated above, this model was printed on my Ender 3. I actually have two Ender 3's, but I stuck mostly to using one due to a lack of filament. The whole thing took about 1 and 1/4 rolls of filament (in my case about 1.25kg). I printed in black Hatchbox PLA using Cura 4.3's new creawesome settings with variable layer height. Most of the files were printed with supports, which I actually found difficult to deal with (as always) and I ended up having to use a brim on every print to make sure some of the larger support towers didn't fall over. My first step was calibrating my printers. I made an iron Man helmet a couple months back and it didn't fit together quite right, so I wanted to make sure that I had my printers properly prepared this time. The model itself was scaled to 94.4% of its original size although in hindsight I should have given more clearance for my big head because Its almost impossible to put on and take off. I don't have an exact figure for the total print time, but it was probably close to 120 hours, most of which were overnight. The hardest part was keeping my bed leveled throughout the whole project. I got to a point where I leveled it before every print, which I know is a good practice, but it's still annoying to have to do without any sort of ABL.

Sanding/Assembly
I started sanding the individual parts as bare plastic with 80 grit sandpaper, then moved up to 100 grit, and then got bored and jumped to 400 grit. All in all I could have used to do a little more sanding because the layer lines are still visible in some places, but it is what it is. After sanding to this point, I assembled the whole thing except the eye pieces using cyanoacrylate. This didn't actually take that long because cyanoacrylate sets pretty quick, but it was still quite a process making sure everything lined up correctly. After it was assembled, I filled in any unwanted seams with wood filler and sanded them down with the same process I used on the rest of the model. After I was happy, I wet sanded the whole thing with 1000 grit sandpaper to give it a super smooth finish. I then applied a few coats of filler primer and wet sanded again with the same grit sandpaper as before. The lenses of the helmet were cut from a piece of transparent red cast acrylic I found on Amazon. It came with a paper backing on both sides to protect it, so I used that to draw the circles I wanted to cut as well as to draw the grid pattern with pencil before I made anything final. I probably could have made the grid better by using geometry or something but I didn't feel like it so I used a ruler and eyeballed the rest. I drew it on the paper in pencil first, and then went back (still using the ruler) and went over my lines with a hobby knife.

Painting
I started painting with a coat of the base gray color. Once I was happy with the finish, I masked basically the whole helmet to paint the gold parts, which was a pain, but I think it would have been more difficult to mask the recessed areas had I chosen to do the gold first. I still had the eyepieces separate and hadn't yet installed the lenses. The bright silver color was done by hand because I figure that would be easier than more masking, especially with the details and tubing. After I was happy with my base paint job, I went back with the silver and did some dry brushing on edges and corners to make it look a little worn.

Electronics
The electronics were by far the easiest part of this project, although there are thing I would change if I were to do this project again. The whole thing is really as simple as a red LED strip hooked up to a 9v battery. The LED strips I used are linked below, although I would recommend not using them for this purpose. They've got a water proof coating across the LED side of the strip that covers all of the contact points so it's pretty much impossible to connect to a strip you've cut. I had to use the LED strip from the inside out and make it one continuous strip across both eyes. The battery holder I got had a switch on it, so that's convenient. After I had it all hooked up, I installed the lenses into the eyepieces, the eyepieces into the helmet and then stuck the electronics in with some cyanoacrylate just to be sure it wouldn't fall out, the battery is held in the front of the mask by some masking tape (I know, not the most glorious solution)

Links
Model: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1753445
Sandpaper: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07MXB5M5K?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Metallic Gray Paint: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00681T1UU/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_dDNTDb3JRFXTB
Gold Paint: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0006N6RA8/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_3DNTDbKYMM9VC
Silver Paint: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004GJDUN0/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_YHNTDbWPQ9P83
Wood Filler: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001733MIG?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Red Acrylic: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006FLYIYM?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Red LED strip (again, I recommend a different option): https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HRMPBQQ?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Battery Holder: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07HQ5RT7Z?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Hope this helps!

I'll be posting links to related items in Amazon and elsewhere so you can get an idea. By no means is this an endorsement for Amazon (peh, I wish) but just to get an idea of costs. This would be identical to the platform my coach and I made and it dampens sound very well. As mentioned, stable mats are quite dense and do not deaden the vibrations particularly well. Going with a composite "fleck" rubber flooring holds it's shape well and deadens the sound much better. A layer of cork between your base layers will further deaden the vibrations. Finally, making sure you have a full 8'x8' platform (or larger if you can manage it) will deaden the vibrations the most.

IF you shop around you can likely build this for under $200 (provided you can use HDF/particle board for the runway). Most likely if you are in a hurry it might cost about $50 more.

• 5 Sheets of plywood. 4 of them can be "builder grade", i.e. cheaper and 3/4" thick. Top layer will need to be as thick as the rubber sheeting you select and should be of a better quality to avoid splinters and knots. In dry climates High density particleboard actually makes a great platform because it is cheap, has a dry, paper-like texture which is great for grip, but it can swell in humid climates.
  
  
• Enough cork sheeting to sandwich a single layer on two 4'x8' sheets of plywood. amazon link for cork sheeting
  
  
• 1 roll (for an 8x8 or 8(w)x10(l) platform of fleck composite gym flooring. amazon link for gym flooring
  
  
• Flooring adhesive, 8 flat-head wood screws with washers, and 6 3/4" "taper head" wood screws.
  
  

1. Set two sheets of plywood lengthwise, lightly coat with flooring adhesive, and place a single layer of cork on top of it. Coat the top of the cork with flooring adhesive as well.
   
   
2. Layer two more sheets of plywood on top of the cork, in the opposite direction as the first layer.
   
   
3. Cut the rubber to size, using the "outside" edge for the interior so the factory cuts line up easily with your runway. Place the runway in the middle of the platform. (Note: I don't advise using flooring adhesive on the top layer if you need to replace a component it makes it much easier)
   
   
4. Secure the runway with 3 screws at the front and back (one in each corner with another in-between, none in the middle). Secure the wells (rubber) with the flat top screws and washers in each corner.
   
   
   Extra credit - lay your platform down on cheap rubber drainage mats to further ease vibrations, and to also have a place where plates can fall to the floor without damage to either plate or floor. link for drainage matting

I think kydex might be a good choice. It is pretty cheap, and also heat moldable. Just make sure to check the thickness of the sheets before you buy. If they are too thick, they won't be very flexible. The .060 inch thickness is pretty stiff, but still bendable by hand. You can pop it in the oven and then lay it on a cylindrical object to achieve the desired curve, and then use a heat gun (or a candle, if you're feeling cheap) if you want a more custom fit.

https://www.amazon.com/Kydex-Plastic-Sheets-Black-0-060/dp/B00HAS1VSK/ref=sr_1_4?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1495674072&sr=1-4&keywords=kydex

Otherwise, I have also had luck with those flexible plastic cutting boards, like these:

https://www.amazon.com/Flexible-Plastic-Cutting-Colorful-Kitchen/dp/B01HN7ZGUQ/ref=sr_1_2?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1495674423&sr=1-2&keywords=flexible+cutting+boards

They are pretty good for making crud-catcher type fenders, with liberal use of zip-ties, of course.

Good luck!

Congrats, just got mine 2 months ago.

SeeMeCNC forums are awesome. Start reading every new post.

Best upgrade I've done: PEI Bed

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0013HKZTA
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007Y7D5NQ

~$30 in upgrades; all my prints stick and pop off with ease. Also, the underside of every part is glassy and smooth. So good.

Buy "feeler gages" to assist with leveling the bed.

http://www.amazon.com/Stanley-Proto-J000AA-Master-Feeler/dp/B001HWDOK8/

My bed leveling process is kinda like this:

• Set the Z=0 spot, should be where you feel friction when pulling a single, blank piece of printer paper between the nozzle and print bed.
  
  
• Edit the radius of swing in the EEPROM settings per the instructions (I missed this the first time through).
  
  
• Setup and run the tower calibration script.
  
  
• Figure out what the gap is for the central point with the feeler gages; mine was between .006" and .007" (.006" fit, .007" didn't).
  
  
• Now use those "Go" and "No-Go" gages to check the three tower points.
  
  
• If you need to adjust all three towers in the same direction, change the EEPROM radius instead, 0.2 steps.
  
  
• Every few tower calibration runs, re-calibrate the Z=0 point. It will shift as you move screws and change EEPROM settings.
  
  Let's see, what else. If you can spare the cash, I moved to Simplify3d for all my slicing needs ($100~$150 for the license). Love it. If you can't afford it, maybe you'll find a way.
  
  Also, get ready to do a bajillion calibration runs. I mean it, don't be in a rush.
  
  Find a nice 20mm box off thingiverse or whatever, and you're gonna want to print that repeatedly while you dial in your settings. Once that's set, move on to the hollow pyramid, or the 5mm stairs.
  
  I seriously printed at least 20 of each of these while I dialed in my settings:
  
  
• Extrusion Multiplier
  
• Retraction Settings
  
• Speed
  
• Infill, Outline Overlap
  
• Printing temp
  
• etcetcetc
  
  ASAP, move over to PLA. Prints so much nicer for me than ABS.
  
  Oh, before you go to PLA, make sure you print 3x of the layer fans housings (not just 1x) and order up 2 more of the "squirrel cage" fans (centrifugal fans) from SeeMeCNC. edit: I spliced the single pair of layer-fan wires into three right at the connectors, I didn't bother running extra wire for them.
  
  Oh, and one other big improvement I made was putting connectors in-line with the hot-end and for all the fans. This way, if I have to replace a fan or upgrade the hot-end I don't have to cut and splice wires, I can just pop it off and connectorize another new one. Here are the connectors I used:
  
  
• Hot end, high-current lines
  
• Crimp tool
  
• 1 2 3 4 for the lower-current fan lines and thermistor lines.
  
  That was probably too much info -- just take your time and try not to get frustrated while you get things all set up. It is not a plug-'n-play object, it requires care and feeding.
  
  ... oh, and have fun! Whatcha gonna print?

I guess people want to know a little more. There's plenty of tutorials online, so do some google work if you want a more in-depth description.

Materials/Tools:

• Kydex V .080" (I got 12"x12" 8pack on amazon)
  
• Balsa wood (local hardware or craft store, I got mine at Menards)
  
• Clip (Pick which one you like, I found a 2 pack with hardware on amazon)
  
• Painters tape (had some lying around)
  
• vacuum food bags (You can use this or a foam press or zip-lock bag if you're careful)
  
• IR thermometer (I got one on amazon for 14, but you can find cheaper ones for sub $10)
  
• Dremmel or bandsaw
  
• Sandpaper (either hand sand or belt sander or sander attachment for dremel)
  
• heatgun for loosening a few places
  
  Process:
  
  
• Use the balsa wood to cover spots you don't want the holster to be formed in. I covered up the trigger area, the right side of the breech where most pistols eject casings, a line from the front to rear sights, and a line back from the slide release.
  
• Set your gun down on one of the kydex sheets to mark out how much material you need. I used a little less than half of one of the sheets. I then did a loose guess of "roll the gun over to see how far I need to go", and cut off what I needed.
  
• Get your vacuum bag or foam press or gallon zip-lock back ready. I think the food vacuum bags are easiest, but if you don't have one lying around, I've heard you can use a zip-lock bag, a rag, and a floor vacuum with a hose. Most tutorials online use a foam press. I'd say this gives you the best results, but costs the most, and requires replacing the foam after 5-10 holsters.
  
• Heat up the kydex to the proper temperature (The kydex V I linked I think forms best at 300-315), use the IR gun to get the temperature right. If you go too hot, the kydex will "burn", it gets all shiny (The stuff linked "burns" probably around 360-380).
  
• Once it gets up to temperature, pull it out, wrap your gun with it, and compress it. The kydex I linked has a shiny and a matte side. I used it with the matte side out, but if you like a glossy look, go for it. Like I said, I used a vacuum food bag (they're safe to use in the oven, so it can handle 320 degree plastic), your mileage will vary. If you use a zip-lock bag, you might need to put a rag around it so it doesn't melt the bag
  
• Let cool. Once cooled down, anywhere from 2 minutes to 15 minutes (depends if you use your actual gun or a mold gun, and if you use foam or etc). You can use the IR reader to see what temp it is, under 140 should be good, but other spots may be warmer. The gun acts as a heatsink. The hottest spot is where the kydex is all by it's lonesome.
  
• Pull your gun out and start going to work
  
• I used a bandsaw to cut out the general shape, and a dremel with a sanding head to get it just right.
  
• Sand to your heart's content.
  
• You may need to reheat the trigger area specifically if you're having trouble pulling the firearm out. I used my heatgun on low.
  
• Decide where you want to mount your clip(s). If you want to mount your clips where the gun is, before you mold, put some balsa wood there so the hardware doesn't scratch your gun.
  
• Drill holes for the hardware. I used a 13/64 bit which worked perfectly for my hardware which is supposedly 1/4, but use what ever bit you need for whatever hardware your clip needs.
  
• Make sure you have positive retention, but not so much where you can't pull the gun out. Kydex lets the gun out much easier with a quick pull, rather than a lengthy one. The main area for catching is the trigger guard. What ever is catching, heat it up just enough with the heatgun for it to open up.
  
  And then you're basically all done. It took me probably an hour or less. Total cost for one holster (because I was able to make 2 holsters off of one 12"x12" sheet), was about $6-$7, with the bulk of the cost being the clips. I'll try and answer any other questions others have.

I bought the same thing for my v1:
12"x12" 0.03" PEI
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0013HKZTA/
(6) 12x12" 3M Adhesive Transfer Tape:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007Y7D5NQ/

At the time there were no practical cheaper/smaller options (although the extra 3M adhesive does come in handy).

... I scored/snapped the sheet into 4 pieces, and I'm still on the first PEI sheet after like 300 hours. It still looks flawless. I only use sharp scraper blades or no tools to remove parts. If you're printing something crazy in a cold room, you can add hairspray, but for the most part, PEI has perfect adhesion on it's own.

I definitely recommend the thicker PEI (0.03"+), as it makes the MPSM bed much more rigid. I don't have to bend the aluminum bed "flat again" anymore. I dont worry about bending the bed when ripping parts off the bed, even with super high adhesion.

Clean it with alcohol, not sandpaper.

DiiCooler, Z braces, thumbscrews for bed leveling, and the melzi temp fix are all common mods that I can recommend. You could also get the all Metal Hot end from Micro Swiss but I have not done this myself.

As for supplies, I would recommend getting a sheet of PEI and some 3M adhesive to stick it to the print bed. PEI is a great, low maintenance print surface that prints stick to very well even without any form of fixative to improve bed adhesion. If you don't go that route I would say get some buildtak to put on the print bed with washable gluestick depending on the filament you use. Basically you don't want to be printing directly on to the bed as there is a hole where the thermistor comes through.

Other than that, just get extra filament and have fun with it.

For a holster have you thought of using kydex? You could build a perfect little holster that looks like it was made for it. The stuff is really easy/fun to work with.

Does this light put out 180L with a normal 1.5/1.2v AAA or just with a 10440 @ 3.7V?

As far as a suggestion for a 10440 this one works for me. Do not bother with Trustfire. Both of my Trustfire 104440s are shot.

I don't think you're going to find much with this little guy as far as mods go. Really just playing around with how long it can handle a 10440 will be fun. Be careful I have had a few AAA/10440 flashlights that will only function on 104440 after using one in it and the other flat out stopped working. (Thorfire I think it was.) Just a reminder to not let it heat up too much is all. My OLight AAA goes with me everywhere even when I have my S1 clipped in my pocket just because it's so small and a great thing to hand to someone when they ask "can I use your flashlight".

For the plexiglass, I think you can get something like this:

http://www.homedepot.com/p/OPTIX-24-in-x-48-in-x-093-in-Acrylic-Sheet-MC-13/202038048

or this:

https://www.amazon.com/Acrylic-Plexiglass-Plastic-Sheet-24/dp/B00C13ZSBA

Honestly, I just walked into a Home Depot and asked for a big sheet of plexiglass. It was about $25. Someone above suggested that Hobby Lobby may be cheaper.

Here's the battlemat:

https://www.amazon.com/Chessex-Role-Playing-Play-Mat/dp/B0015IQO2O

Grab some whiteboard markers, and the whole thing will run you about $50. But honestly, I've used this same setup for 4 years and it's been great.

A few thoughts:

• The plexiglass doubles as a great protective surface for whatever table you're playing on. We've been saved from many spills because of it!
  
• The plexiglass is a little heavy and cumbersome. My group meets at a different place every week, and it's a little annoying having to carry around everywhere. It's great if you have a dedicated gaming room, though.
  
• The plexiglass can get dirty, but I never notice while playing. Just wipe it down with windex every now and then.
  
• Get colored markers! It's so nice being able to track hp in red ink right next to minis as they move around the map, and my players love drawing out possible tactics/formations, etc.
  

While I've never had success with a Rep2X and PLA (except for one roll this one time), it sounds like you've got it extruding fairly well at this point.

So your current difficulty is getting the print to stay stuck to the bed? I'd recommend getting a sheet of PEI (I use 0.03" thickness) like this:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0013HKZTA
Then cut it to size and stick it to your print bed with this:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007Y7CZ32

I've had awesome success with PEI and PLA. It sticks great until it cools down, then it comes off easily. Print with the bed at 50C.

Sure!

Basically, you need a few things: kydex sheet, heat gun (or oven, if you wanna do this at home), thermofoam, some wooden planks and G-clamps, hacksaw (Dremel would be better), eyelet (make sure you have the correct length and size) and eyelet setter, and teklok (belt attachment).

First, you wanna cut the kydex into the size that you want to use. I used taco style, so I wanna make sure the sheet can hug my knife.

Then you heat up the kydex sheet with the heat gun (or oven) until it becomes soft. Put the knife between the kydex sheet taco style. Press it hard with the thermofoam. Sandwich the thermofoam with wood planks and secure it with the G-clamps. After a few minutes, the kydex will cool down and you will have a roughly shaped sheath.

Draw outline on the sheath with pencil based on how you want the sheath to look like. Trim the sheath to size using hacksaw (or Dremel). Give about an inch slack from the blade area of the sheath.

Drill some holes on the sheath. I used 1/4" drill bit since I am using 1/4" eyelet. I also made sure that the holes are aligned with teklok holes, so I can attach the teklok using those holes (I messed this part up). Set the eyelet on those holes.

You are basically done here. You could use some sandpaper (or Dremel with sanding attachment) to smooth the edges of your sheath.

Hope this helps. There are many different guides out there, if you find mine confusing.

Cheers.

To give an opinion contrary to Linkdead404's, I think the heated bed is absolutely worth it. I only print in PLA, and I dealt with the painters tape on the Printrbot Metal for a long time. After I got my Rostock and used the heated bed with PLA, I upgraded the Printrbot as well. Everything sticks like glue and comes out super flat. I also have a sheet of PEI on the print bed of both printers which lets me print with nothing more than a quick wipe off with rubbing alcohol. So awesome.

Edit: I should have put this as a reply to OP. I bought the $99 upgrade kit, you also need a power supply, which I got on sale from Newegg.

OP delivers. To answer your questions Judge

1. I had it made by a friend
   
2. It is made of custom cut leather dyed black and specially fitted Kydex molded in a press similar to this
   
3. the only tip I have is make sure it is sealed before wearing it on a hot day
   
4. total was $60
   
5. He measured and made it all in 3 days
   
6. it conceals very well with all types of shirts
   
7. It is very comfortable, wore it over 16 hours straight including 2 hours driving
   
8. Retention is perfect, the holster doesn't move at all when drawing weapon
   
9. My friend buys leather and Kydex sheets online and cuts them as needed.
   
10. You're looking at it because I posted it and you like guns and gun accessories.

You'd really only have to spend $20 to make the forearms and the plastron. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009AEKJVW/

You could make yourself a custom plastron from any breastplate pattern online.

I wouldn't use the lighter ones because I'm unsure what the protection is like. The 800n fabric they use is really thick and has some weight to it. That by itself is a good thing because that mass will help protect you. Also, it's my opinion that one shouldn't skimp on protection. Save the money, buy the better thing and you wont regret it. Buy the cheap one and there is a higher chance of regret.

I recently stopped using blue tape and switched to PEI sheets on glass. I'll never go back. I think this would be a good thing for you to try, the PEI sheet releases pretty easily once cool.

PEI (Polyetherimide) Sheet, Opaque Natural, Standard Tolerance, ASTM D5205 PEI0113, 0.03" Thickness, 12" Width, 12" Length https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0013HKZTA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_j.9Dxb7FAEG3J

TapeCase 12" squares (pack of 6), Converted from 3M 468MP Adhesive Transfer Tape https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007Y7D5NQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_S.9DxbBW56J7Z

I have several upgrades in the queue for this weekend once my M3 hardware kit comes in:

• The 40mm fan for the controller board: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1867169
  
• The Z-Axis rod stabilizers: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1775502
  
• The zero-offset mount: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1848402
  
  (Note the above designs are all three by USWaterRockets, who seems to have exceptional engineering skills, but I haven't installed them yet. Hopefully, this weekend and I'll post results)
  
  Another one I'm considering next:
  
  
• Belt tensioners: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1697171
  
  Here is the E3D-v6 adapter I currently have on the printer:
  
• https://hackaday.io/project/12184-monoprice-mp-select-mini-e3d-hotend-adapter
  
  Note the above design is just a quick-and-dirty solution; the author even states this. It works and will get you what you need to get things going with the new head.
  
  Other upgrades I've done:
  
  
• Upgrade the firmware and set the PID values correctly to control temperature better: https://hackaday.io/project/12696/instructions
  
• Replacement filament feeder: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0196B285I/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
• PEI print surface (two parts):
  https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007Y7D5NQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0013HKZTA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
• Cork insulation under print bed (I attached it using the adhesive from the above order): http://www.michaels.com/artminds-cork-roll/M10171279.html?dwvar_M10171279_color=Natural#q=cork&start=6
  
  Here's the E3D-v6 printhead I bought and it's worked well: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01H4V2QEK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
  Disclaimer: I'm new to 3D printing. This is my first printer and the learning curve is steep. I may look back on this posting in a year and think "what an idiot I was doing <this>". Take my advice with a grain of salt, as I'm muddling through this whole thing. YMMV

Easy enough, you mentioned that it is going on a project box.



You could either cut out the entire shape from the box, use that as a template on some translucent acrylic sheet and cut that. Do the same for the inner piece.

The only issue I see with this option is that the cuts need to be precise, in order to line up nicely. Something like Bondo could fill the gaps, if you get any.

The other option still uses the acrylic piece, but places it on top of the project box. Holes or gaps would have to be cut/drilled into the project box, beneath the acrylic.



This should be the easier of the two options. The downside here is that depending on how you place the gaps, there could be hot spots of light.

The first option provides a flush transition from box to shape, while the second has it tacked to the top. Both are viable, it just depends how much work you want to throw at it.

Something like this for the acrylic The light blue one looks close to what you have for the colour.

I cover my battle mats with these clear plastic sheets, much like acrylic glass. I usually use wet erase markers, though sometimes dry erase. I have had zero trouble with staining since I started using these, even when using red (which tends to stain) and leaving the markings on for weeks.

Apart from preserving your grid, this allows some interesting techniques. You can overlay one sheet upon another, for instance, creating layers. You can also draw on both sides of a sheet, so that you can quickly erase and re-draw things on the top while preserving the markings on the bottom.

Credit where it's due: I got this from Seth Skorkowsky, who is quite the font of good ideas.

Buy a large sheet of HDPE plastic and a plastic cutter to hack it into the size you want. I bought this https://www.amazon.com/Vycom-906686-Seaboard-Density-Polyethylene/dp/B00K2QT1XO which works great as a hard mousepad. Cutting it in half (the only way it can fit on my desk, and it is still huge) gives you two sheets. Since the material is the same on both sides you get 4 huge hardpad surfaces to play on for $20.

This is what I used. Score with a razor and straight edge and snap. Glued a piece the size of the SX350 in with some clear epoxy and stuck the chip on top of that. Careful of using too much glue. mine bled a little into the visible area. The only thing I wish I did was get some one way mirrored film to cover the plex with to make it look nicer.

Most people use plexiglas or something like this:https://www.amazon.com/Icona-Bay-Replacement-Material-Shattering/dp/B01N7MLF3D

Or you could just buy a cheap 36x24 poster frame and use the plastic protector from it but in my experience those are pretty easy to crack/shatter at the edges so cutting it down would be hard.

Two options: laminate some thin panels to the walls. Either FRP or hardboard. FRP will reist scuffs better, but both will save your walls.

Or mount some vertical rails every ~12" or so. You could get aluminum bar stock or some UHMW cut in to ~3/4" strips. This will give it something to glide on. You could mount some of those on the floor, too, to save your flooring from the sliding.

Also known as Ultem, it can be purchased here from CSHyde. There are several options there for size and thickness. The bonus is that these sheets come with adhesive already laminated to the sheet. I believe you can also get custom sizes, although larger sheets are no problem to cut to size.

Alternatively (and probably more common), you can purchase PEI sheets here on Amazon. The recommended adhesive (transfer tape) is here, and there may be other sizes for both available on Amazon as well as wBay.

The whole idea on using PEI as a print surface is that you get good print adhesion with most common print materials. Using a heated bed with PEI works great for getting prints to stick while warm, and also pop off of the print bed fairly easily as the bed cools.

I went with the stuff from CSHyde for convenience, but I think most users here are going with the Amazon stuff (they have thicker sheets which many users prefer as it can last longer before needing replacement).

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0013HKZTA/ref=biss_dp_t_asn
http://www.amazon.com/TapeCase-squares-Converted-Adhesive-Transfer/dp/B007Y7D5NQ/
Do note I am using a rostock, but psi will work on all regardless, it's also acetone resistant, so you could clean really easily

Bought one of these half racks in great shape for $100: https://www.dickssportinggoods.com/p/fitness-gear-2017-pro-half-rack-16fgeufgprhlfrckxgmu/16fgeufgprhlfrckxgmu.

 

Good rack, but the standard J hooks were covered in a nasty rubber that created rubber dust when the bar slid against it. Decided to cover the J hooks in UHMW instead.

 

Materials needed:

12x12x1/4" UHMW sheet (don't buy less than 1/4" thickness since you are going to be countersinking the screw holes): https://www.amazon.com/Molecular-Polyethylene-Standard-Tolerance-Thickness/dp/B00CPRDLAW/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1493150072&sr=8-3&keywords=uhmw

Drill/drill bits

Phillips #2 screwdriver

Countersink bit (1/2" works well, something similar to this would be fine, it doesn't have to be a titanium coated bit since you're only counter sinking the uhmw): https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000F3SI2O/ref=mp_s_a_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1493158184&sr=1-7&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=Countersink+bit&dpPl=1&dpID=51fQXRD5ZuL&ref=plSrch

A tap (I used 12-24 NC)

4 machine screws (I used 12-24 x 1/2")

Jigsaw or hacksaw (for cutting the UHMW)

 

Drill pilot holes in the J hooks, then run a tap through it to create threads for the screws. Go slow with the tap and use oil when tapping the threads. Cut the UHMW sheet to size with a saw. I tried using a hacksaw, but a jigsaw created much cleaner and straighter edges. Once the UHMW pieces are cut to fit your rack's J hooks, drill and countersink the screw holes in the UHMW. Attach the UHMW with the machine screws and you're done! UHMW doesn't work well with adhesives, so using screws is a more secure method of mounting the pads.

 

Once you've tapped the screw holes in the J hooks, it's very easy to replace the UHMW if it ever wears out. Just unscrew the old UHMW pads and attach a new pair.

I buy this stuff: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00K2Q73UW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I really like it because I can cut it with a craft knife or strong scissors, unlike MDF. Its just easier to work with and a little bit lighter.

It looks like a piece of gray acrylic. Acrylic gives that lovely reflection on jewelry. I actually use a white piece of acrylic for my photos. You can order it in different colors on Amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/Cast-Acrylic-Sheet-Transparent-0-118/dp/B00JB7FEEU

Some pvc with wall flanges on either side to make an I shape would let you get just enough height to relieve some of the stress on the bottom plastic bit without reducing the stability of the case.

Plus, if it's a white case, it's gonna blend in pretty well.

Edit: I assume it's in the curved bit of the plastic bottom part that is breaking?

An alternative to feet would be to use some stiff sheet material, maybe something like [this] (http://smile.amazon.com/dp/B006FLZ03A) (amazon).

Cut it to fit between the the bottom of the case and the plastic feet of the case and glue it in place. That way, the weight of the case is going more through this piece than the curved part of those plastic feet.

Another option is using a PEI sheet (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0013HKZTA?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf ). I personally use a mirror and PEI. Nice flat surface with great hold. If you don't have an IKEA near you, Home Depot has a 12 pack of mirrors for $20.

I've had good success with .03inch thickness (0.762mm)

That's a bit thicker than you would tend to find, but it has the benefit that you can use high grit sandpaper to resurface it many many times. I'm about 200 prints in on my first sheet, and I suspect it'll outlast the printer if I don't break the mirror tile it's on. (the sizes are awkward on this listing unless you have a 12x12 build surface like I use)

https://www.amazon.com/Polyetherimide-Natural-Standard-Tolerance-Thickness/dp/B00CPRDDLY/ref=sr_1_1?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1502675019&sr=1-1&keywords=pei

Amazon is actually pretty good for this kind of stuff: https://www.amazon.com/Molecular-Polyethylene-Standard-Tolerance-Thickness/dp/B00CPRDLAW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1475004240&sr=8-1&keywords=uhmw

You could overnight some Kydex from Amazon and put together a sheath quickly using that. It would be much easier and much quicker than anything you could do with leather, given that you don't have any leather or tools. The link above is showing 2 sheets for $10 and is Amazon Prime (so free 2 day delivery).

I think an acrylic panel (that is thick enough supported) would work well. You can cut it with a saw and could purchase it clear or white which I'm sure would match your refrigerator. Check Amazon. It can be scratched though so I might go with white instead of clear.

it's pretty easy to get UHMW sheet

http://www.amazon.com/Molecular-Weight-Polyethylene-Standard-Tolerance/dp/B00CPRDLAW

Buy ptfe off amazon. http://www.amazon.com/Chemfluor-D1069279-PTFE-Film-Wide/dp/B002TG3WS0/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1413397324&sr=8-2&keywords=ptfe+roll

Much thicker than slicksheet and lasts for ever if you treat it right. I pay someone once a week to come in and clean my sheets with iso then theyre brand new again.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009YLIOV8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I got one of those packs, works well with my projects.

I found better prices on amazon that anywhere else, just need patience and time to check all the options, also buy in bulk, it's way cheaper than sites that sell in packs of 100 units (rivets for example)

Oh yeah. Sticks so well that, if the bed is heated, you can't even get the finished object off of it until you wait for it to cool to room temperature without the risk of damaging it.

Amazing stuff that no one should be without.

This is the stuff I have - http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0013HKZTA/ref=biss_dp_t_asn

Put it on with this - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007Y7D5NQ/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I used the Windex+credit card trick for both sides of the adhesive.

Cut it to size with an Xacto knife score and a metal rule. Snaps just like plexi.

You can see it in the original pic. He's sitting on a big yellow slab of the stuff. If you use a Z sensor you'll have to adjust for the height and so on.

https://www.amazon.com/Small-Parts-KYDEX-V-Sheet/dp/B00KDMLJ0A

http://www.harborfreight.com/1500-watt-dual-temperature-heat-gun-572-1112-96289.html

You can make your own fin grip pretty easily

I used a combination of [magnetic sheets with adhesive] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003XNAHMC/ref=ya_aw_oh_bia_dp?ie=UTF8&psc=1) and a PEI sheet. Works like a charm

edit: here's some pics of when I was putting it together: https://imgur.com/gallery/kvChO

You can get a 12"x24" sheet of Kydex for pretty cheap. Amazon carries ~1/8" thick sheet of the stuff for about $12.50. You can soften it in an oven or with a heat gun to shape it. It is easy to cut by scoring it with a utility knife and snapping it along the score line. You can also cut/drill holes in it to make attachment points for organization.

If there's no software solution, maybe cutting, taping or sanding the edges so its safer, and taping a small thin piece of plexiglass, lexan, or something transparent on the switch screen would work.

https://www.amazon.com/Lexan-Sheet-Polycarbonate-Thick-Nominal/dp/B00520AR9C

It just needs to be thick enough so the capacitance is not picked up.

If you don't want to tape it to the switch itself, maybe attaching it to a case like this might be more palatable.

https://www.amazon.com/Compatible-Nintendo-Multi-Functional-3-Angle-Protective-Protect/dp/B06XBRF7N4

Though there are tape that won't leave residue.

Unlike an iPad or iPhone or something, you won't lose any functionality doing this as the touch screen is optional and the switch is fully accessible from the controller since it needs to be usable if only in a TV.

It's a specific material that has properties allowing most fdm materials to stick very well too (PETG too well at times). There is a ton of information in forums on that bed surface.

You usually buy a sheet about 30 thou (0.03") thick and stick straight to the aluminium heatbed or on to the glass bed with 3M double sided.

I bought this one: PEI amazon.ca
But here are tons of suppliers around depending where you are located.

You can cut acrylic sheets easily with a circular saw, band saw, table saw, etc. The edges do not have to be perfect since it will be hidden in the frame.

http://www.amazon.com/Acrylic-Plexiglass-Plastic-Sheet-24/dp/B00C13ZSBA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1462206658&sr=8-1&keywords=acrylic+24x36

Edit: depending on your frame, 1/4" might be too thick. I believe it is common to use 1/8" for framing.

Just in case you change your mind it has been amazing for me

I use this now. I had to sand the edges and stuff, but it is a nice and large hardpad.
Here are some pictures that I took of it a while back.

Any cutting board made of high density polyethylene (HDPE) should do, or you could just get a large board like this in the size you want.


stuff like this - https://www.amazon.com/Seaboard-Density-Polyethylene-Finish-Length/dp/B00JPHTIES/ref=sxin_13_ac_d_rm?keywords=hdpe+sheet&pd_rd_i=B00JPHTIES&pd_rd_r=dd15ad70-7a36-4a2c-b07a-7f3801f9c4cb&pd_rd_w=csGJ0&pd_rd_wg=2UPvX&pf_rd_p=b3dd82c1-af3b-4cc4-a37f-5ce666fd2ce2&pf_rd_r=XXTYQRAAKD721AFJE4BD&qid=1559133144&s=gateway


https://www.amazon.com/PolyCarve-Density-Polyethylene-Finish-Length/dp/B00JPIB0C0/ref=sr_1_9?keywords=hdpe+sheet&qid=1559133144&s=gateway&sr=8-9


be warned that it can be REALLY slick.

To account for swaying I planned on using a poorman's treehouse sliding bracket system with a uhmw spacer. I'll leave 3 to 4 inches lateral "play" to give the tree enough room to dance.

https://www.amazon.com/Molecular-Weight-Polyethylene-Standard-Tolerance/dp/B000ILJZF2?th=1&psc=1

Thanks for the rubber tire trick. I have a few old tires stashed around the property. But when you say rubber between the anchors please help me envision this, are you saying put rubber between the tree and beam so on the side to side motion the beam does not smack the tree sideways and damage the tree that way?

Haha - I did feel a little weird purchasing from them, because I'm really not rucking that hard :)

Rather just trying to carry a bunch of stuff around a live out of a backpack.

I've seen some other folks purchase a kydex sheet, trace the current frame sheet, then cut it down.

>The price is decent.

Not really, make sure you're thinking of the right thickness. The 0.03" sheet most people use from Amazon is $30 for 12x24".

CS Hyde's price is $40 for 12x12", and only 0.02" thick too. You're basically paying 5x as much as the Amazon price. Sure it already comes adhesive backed, but is that really worth it?

Congrats on your decision! Hope you enjoy it as much as I do.

As far as the auto bed leveling kit, it's brand spankin new and it's the first time I'm seeing it. There were rumors on here of MTW releasing that. Manual bed leveling with the clips that come with the kit were a huge pain in the ass; there was too much play and you need a hex key to level it. I printed Easy bed levelers which are light years better. Manual bed leveling now takes just a quick couple minutes, which I only do after a handful of prints. While you're at it consider these for your printer, too (not necessary but will make your life a lot easier once you start printing):

• Blower fan duct - you'll need to spend a couple dollars on a blower fan, but the shroud keeps air flow directed at your print rather than blowing at, and cooling, the heating block.
  
• PEI sheet for the bed - no painter's tape, no glue, no hairspray, no abs slurry. Prints just stick to it without any prep work. Just keep it clean with isopropyl alcohol.

http://www.amazon.com/Polyetherimide-Off-White-Standard-Tolerance-PEI0113/dp/B00CPRDDLY

GREAT material for printing adhesion. NO glue, no hairspray, just clean it every once in a while with alcohol

You can buy it on amazon. Like here

As a word to the wise, be careful if using a dremel, especially with thicker stuff ( I used .128" Kydex). Cutting wheels like to pull away and spew melted material and dust. The stuff isn't exactly compliant, which is why they use it for cutting boards.

I simply traced out the material off an existing frame sheet and cut it on a scroll saw. Then cleaned edges with a file. You can find a link to .118" Kydex from Amazon here. I got some in .128" from a material supply place. The thicker it is, the more rigid you'll get.

this is what I use its a lot thicker than the slick sheet. It keeps its shape much better and doesn't fold in on the oil.

To add onto what /u/breda076 said, if you wanted to reinforce it then getting something like a piece of polycarbonate and gluing it (or you could fiberglass it into the wing if you want to get fancy) onto the bottom of the spoiler should suffice.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0013HKZTA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

that's what i ordered for my printer. i have the same one, but i use simplify3D. totally worth the money.

I use the clamp, but I put a small square of plywood underneath and a small square of HDPE on the underside of the top of the clamp(the visible portion on my desktop) to spread the pressure and make it a little more sturdy. It also adds a nice little tapering effect.

I didn't want to drill through because I am not totally certain what the veeners are filled with in the spaces that don't have screw holes for the legs...

Just to clarify your clarification, something like this?

https://www.amazon.com/Polyetherimide-Off-White-Standard-Tolerance-PEI0113/dp/B00CPRDDLY

Buy a textured HDPE sheet off of Amazon. Works fine, highly durable and doesn't have an issue with any sensors I've used on it.

https://www.amazon.com/Seaboard-Density-Polyethylene-Finish-Length/dp/B00K2QT1XO/

[PEI for $17] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0013HKZTA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) this will last you for a long time (Through many many prints) if you are careful with it.

[Transfer tape for sticking PEI to buildplate] (https://www.amazon.com/Gizmo-Dorks-Adhesive-Transfer-Sheets/dp/B01HP2CEG8)

[Here is a site with more information] (http://reprap.org/wiki/PEI_build_surface)

Edit: For immediate printing buy a cut sheet of glass from the glass or hardware store, then spray 2 layers of [Aqua net extra strength super hold unscented] (http://www.walmart.com/ip/Aqua-Net-Extra-Super-Hold-3-Unscented-Hair-Spray-11-Oz/10997068) it must be this brand and product. Or you could match ingredients. This method will work for fairly large prints but is not as good as PEI. After each print just spray another coat of hairspray.

http://www.amazon.com/KYDEX-Sheet-0-028-Thick-Black/dp/B00KDMLJ0A/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1451183913&sr=8-1&keywords=Kydex

http://www.amazon.com/Grommet-Eyelet-Setting-Pliers-Grommets/dp/B0047AKK0Y/ref=sr_1_10?ie=UTF8&qid=1451183913&sr=8-10&keywords=Kydex

I used things like these, my oven, and a YouTube tutorial. Kydex, when heated is very pliable, and cools solid. If you mess up, you can heat and remold again. You only need .06 thickness, any thicker is left to gun holsters. I then use an old belt to help mold a g-clip from a Kydex strip, and thats really it. I haven't bought a sheath in many years. Any further questions, just reply, I'll check back in the morning.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00K2QT1XO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Does that look okay?

While $55 does seem a little high for a magazine release with the amount of engineering, marketing, and production the price is reasonable, especially if you do not want to register.

There is also the Patriot Mag Lock for $45 or the classic Prince50 for $17

Where are you finding grip wraps for $150? a Monsterman Grip is $45
an Exile Machine Hammerhead Grip is $30

If you want a Thordsen FRS-15 or a Hera Arms Featureless Stock Then you will be spending ~$150

Of course you could make your own Kydex grip wrap for $11 plus [hardware] (https://smile.amazon.com/Kydex-Holster-Black-Eyelets-Count/dp/B00NKOX0B4/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1483519643&sr=8-2&keywords=kydex) and a heat gun

GOD PEI WHEN WILL PEOPLE REALIZE THAT THEY DONT NEED HAIRSPRAY OR TAPE OR GLASS OR VOODOO MAGIC BECAUSE PEI WORKS BETTER THAN ALL OF THOSE

FUCKING PEI EVERYONE

EDIT: PEI FFS

This is the sheet I used for my Taz (I used .06in.) and can attest it is most definately solid PEI and quite durable. It makes very shiny parts.

I get the raw PEI because I have some high temperature tape available at the makerspace. That one is probably fine, too.

Just in case anyone would like to make their own, I found everything on Amazon except the screws and nylon belts. Those I just grabbed at Home Depot and Hobby Lobby.

Clips:

Kydex:

There are enough sheets here to make 4 belts. I took a 12x12in sheet and cut it in half for my belt.

UHMW polyethylene will work - you can cut it and dress it like wood - get a 1/2" thick piece, cut to fit the bottom of your workbench legs, countersink and screw it in place - here's a page from a bench-build that has pictures -

I know last time this was mentioned, someone said that you may just have to buy a large sheet of HDPE plastic like this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00K2QT1XO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

and just cut it to whatever shape you need.

yup, here's some basically, measure, cut, and use a riser glued to the back of the network card, or if the network card has riser slots, attach risers to those.

Cut with a hacksaw, make sure it's a bit too large (a mm or two, not too much), sand the edges with fine sandpaper down to size.

Pro tip, if it has a plastic covering on it (most do), LEAVE THAT ON UNTIL AFTER you sand the edges... makes sure the faces don't get scratched

Amazon has them for $22. Match with one of these to attach it.

The actual product doesn't have that weird edge, it's just a flat sheet.

I would actually go with foam core PVC board It's pretty sturdy, relatively inexpensive, and comes in various widths and colors, and can be cut with a sharp razor blade. 'Celtec' is the brand name, and it also comes under 'Sintra' and a few others. It can also be shaped into non-complex curves with a heat gun so you could get the curves on the shield without a problem

I saw this solution called Wolfbite on Tested last year. Its supposed to work with PETG too to prevent warping, but I haven't personally used it.

You could also try a sheet of PEI over your glass bed.

im thinking of making the wings out of this

http://www.amazon.com/KYDEX-Sheet-0-060-Thick-Calcutta/dp/B009YLIOV8/ref=pd_sim_op_4?ie=UTF8&refRID=18FTBE14ND9CDKZA80EX

I ordered some test samples

Make one

https://www.amazon.com/Polyetherimide-Off-White-Standard-Tolerance-PEI0113/dp/B00CPRDDLY

pick up a 12" x 12" x 0.03" sheet and never look back.

You can order it in size and thickness

You need to get yourself some PEI

https://www.amazon.com/Polyetherimide-Off-White-Standard-Tolerance-PEI0113/dp/B00CPRDDLY

pei sheet

adhesive

http://www.amazon.com/Polyetherimide-Off-White-Standard-Tolerance-PEI0113/dp/B00CPRDDLY

AmazonSmile Link: Cast Acrylic Sheet, Translucent Black, 12" x 12" x 0.118" Size

^Use AmazonSmile to donate 0.5% of your purchase price to a charity of your choice at no extra cost to you.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0013HKZTA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

AND


https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007Y7D5NQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I got this PEI with this adhesive.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002TG3WS0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

id have posted it earlier but i was on my phone before

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B0013HKZTA/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0013HKZTA?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s01

Here is the version I've used, for your reference.

Kydex Sheets on Amazon. They're 12x12 or 12x24 and you need to cut them down.

This is fixable. Get a 1/8" inch thick wood board (like craft plywood). Cut it to the size of the control panel. You may need two side by side, if you cant find a big enough piece. Then use Liquid Nails to adhere it to the top of the control panel (use a cheap paint brush so it's a smooth even coat. Then re-drill the holes.

Or if you can still remove the control panel, you glue it on then trim off the extra with a box knife.

Edit: If the holes are bigger than the the underside of the buttons, use 1/4" inch thick wood board. Do not pin the buttons to only the 1/8" board. If you use 1/4" you can also use seaboard.

In used this PEI sheet: https://amzn.com/B0013HKZTA

And this adhesive: https://amzn.com/B007Y7CZDM

Try to get the adhesive down as smoothly and evenly as possible. No overlaps or gaps if possible. I scored and snapped the PEI to match the build plate, then applied the tape to the PEI, then applied that to the bed.

You could try an HDPE surface such as this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00K2QT1XO/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

If you wipe it off with Lemon Pledge in addition, the glide should be even faster. Not my video, but you can see how well it glides here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dI1O1-CpeBs

The only problem is that these surfaces may cause 3310 sensors to malfunction, so I'd suggest against buying one if you have a mouse that sports one of these.

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0013HKZTA/ref=biss_dp_t_asn

attach to glass or aluminum plate with

http://www.amazon.com/TapeCase-468MP-12in-Adhesive-Transfer/dp/B00P7K7T84/ref=sr_1_4?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1449086424&sr=1-4&keywords=pei

i used 2" tape i'd suggest 3" or so -- it doesn't unroll clean, teh adhesive sticks


or buy a thick sheet of pei. and just use that. (but thats damn expensive)

Do you have any left over bits you can check for a film? Maybe the film was removed when the adhesive was applied, but it still seems odd that PET isn't sticking.

This is the PEI I bought

For the 1mm PEI sheets I have (roughly 12x12") I paid something like $15 each via Amazon (link https://www.amazon.com/Polyetherimide-Off-White-Standard-Tolerance-PEI0113/dp/B00CPRDDLY). The thicker sheets are far more expensive but there's absolutely no point in getting thicker sheets.

The prints pop right off once it has cooled down a little. I'd estimate once it gets down under 70°C it's simple to remove. I'm not all that patient and want to get at things as soon as they are done. It's not fun to try and remove prints while the bed is hot. I'm rarely successful at it. Also there's no need to worry about messing up the PEI if you decide to try and remove a print while it is hot. The PEI is still super hard even when 100°C.

Just a word on PEI: All Lulzbot printers now come with a PEI sheet pre-installed, and it works wonderfully for several months until bubbles form and soon you have to replace it. But if that's what you like, cool.

Do note of course that you can buy large sheets of plain PEI on Amazon, along with adhesive sheets, allowing you to install PEI on any printer. If you're lazy, Gizmodorks also sells pre-cut PEI sheets with adhesive already attached.

But also be warned: if the LB autoleveling process somehow screws up because of poor electrical contact and doesn't realize it, your PEI gets messed up real quick, and replacing PEI, as you may know, is quite the pita.