Here is another sample build. I always mess up the copy/paste, so I linked it instead.

Definitely take this one with a grain of salt; I’ve only been researching for builds for a family member, and not a PC genius; my PC is a 3 year old Intel and you can now get a PC with the same specs for half the price.

I piggybacked on u/HeyItzZach build. Having a Micro Center is a huge advantage for CPU/MOBO savings. For whatever reason, the mATX combo packages at MC are far better. Seems like ATX bundles require an expensive MOBO. If you don’t want mATX then you can just disregard everything. I have an ATX and personally wish I would have gone with a smaller form factor to take my PC places if need be.

The case can be changed, but the Masterbox Q300L is always in the Best Value option when googling “Best mATX cases”. It’s well reviewed by users and pro reviewers alike and for $45/$50 seems like a hell of a case. I’d recommend checking out cases on Youtube and I’m sure they have them out on the Microcenter floor to peek at. There are tons of great videos. The Q300L has 2100 cubic in. interior space, which is in the middle of the pack of all the mATX’s.

Kept the same memory. Pretty good min/maxing. Have had Crucial in a PC for years, no problems.

Also, kept u/HeyItzZach PSU. Definitely want to go with a better (and higher wattage) PSU than the EVGA 400W; I heard the general rule is at least 100w higher than the PC power draw. The Corsair TXM is a high tier PSU on every PSU hierarchy list and it’s at a really good price point.

May want to try out mice they (probably) have out at Microcenter; they do have some of the real popular ones out at Best Buy. The G502 is generally very well liked (although some really hate it). Was literally just on sale for like $30 a few days ago and will probably again soon. I have the G502, but mainly use a Corsair Scimitar MMO Mouse for everything. I use the side number buttons for everything and is great for all types of games.

I’ve had about 5 mechanical keyboards including a super expensive Corsair and I love this one the best and it’s actually super inexpensive. It’s a Brown key-switch, so it’s not super clicky and not too soft aka the Goldilocks IMO of switch types. r/MechanicalKeyboards is a super friendly great place. Can always gather ideas there. Once you have a mechanical keyboard, it’s hard to go back to the old membrane keyboards.

The NVME 1g M.2 is at a good price and is head to head faster and has more storage than a regular SATA SSD. Only shaves off milliseconds off Windows load times and gaming needs, but might as well.

Visualized here.

Forgot fans. That particular case allows 5 120mm fans with 1 included you’ll probably want to change. I’m guessing won’t need all 5. A lot of inexpensive RBG fans aren’t listed on PCPartPicker, but you can get well-rated RBG fans for pretty cheap on Amazon. Here’s an example.

This is the benchmark comparison between Ryzen 5 3600 and the Ryzen 5 2600 if you did want to jump up to that other CPU mentioned.

Oh, and if anyone has any other ideas, feel free to comment. Have spent a lot of time on my own family AMD build to get the best value, so just sharing what I've learned so far.

My friend and I just finished building his first PC, and went the route of using AIO coolers for both his CPU (i7-8700k) and GPU (ASUS GTX 1080 Turbo).

This was built in an NZXT S340 Elite case, which had some radiator restrictions that you do not have, so you have a little more leeway on your cooler choice, but the overall results are phenomenal.

For CPU, we decided on the NZXT Kraken X62 280mm AIO cooler. The performance is one of the best for overall cooling performance, and is a breeze to install, plus he really liked the design of the unit. This was mounted in the front of the case as an intake with a push fan config (we had no choice on this due to the case, but I don't know that we would have done it differently regardless). The EVGA CLC 280mm is another very good 280mm cooler, but this comes entirely down to design preference. There are plenty of other options if you prefer a 360mm rad instead, but you can do the research and decide which one you like best (IMO 280mm is the best for noise/cooling performance). Ultimately almost all AIO coolers are rebranded Asetek coolers anyway, so they have the same overall design with different names and RGB LEDs.

For the GPU, we removed the factory blower fan and installed an NZXT Kraken G12 bracket, and paired it with a Corsair H55 120mm AIO. One thing to be careful of, the G12 is mostly universal, however some aftermarket cards have different PCB layouts for the board itself, and the G12 MAY NOT WORK for your card. If you can look up your card and send me the info, I should be able to look up the PCB on google and determine if it will work for your card. Since you have more options on your install, you could instead change this to a 140mm radiator for better cooling performance, however this is not necessary unless you want very significant overclocks, and will be more expensive depending on the unit you choose. One note for the GPU portion of this swap, the AIO swap MUST be installed in one of two ways. Either 1) you use fan headers on the motherboard to control GPU temps, or 2) you must buy this adapter to control the AIO fan from your GPU. If you choose option 2, you can also buy this fan splitter to power the G12 fan (its a constant RPM fan, no speed control) as well. We personally went with option 2 and added the splitter as well to control everything from the GPU fan header using MSI afterburner (IMO, it is definitely the best way to go). The 120mm AIO was mounted in the rear as an exhaust with a push fan configuration.

Some other related notes: 1) Many individuals will shout from the rooftops that you MUST buy VRAM heatsinks because the G12's fan will not be able to adequately cool them. We did not buy heatsinks, and have zero temp issues at a +600 memory OC. I personally do not feel this to be necessary, but heatsinks are cheap, so if you want to be absolutely sure, feel free to grab them. 2) If you choose to go with a different GPU cooler, say like the NZXT Kraken X42 with RGB lighting or pump speed control, MAKE SURE you have enough USB headers on your motherboard! Most likely you will need to grab a internal USB hub like this to run them all.

I do not have any pictures on hand right now, but there are multiple Youtube videos you can look at to see what it all looks like and entails, just search for "Kraken G12" and you will see multiple videos detailing install procedures, cooling performance, and how it looks.

If you have any questions, feel free to reach out. My friend has never been happier with his build, and the performance numbers are outstanding.

>-Previous threads here-
>
>
>Objective:
>Going back to the original - The $500 build from /u/JDM_WAAAT. Since then, many of those parts prices have drastically increased in price or are unavailable. So new objective, build it better, for less! And oh man did we ever.
>
>
>Rules for buying used server-grade parts on eBay:
>
>1. Buy from highly-rated, reputable sellers
>2. When "Or best offer" is available, use it. Sellers will likely discount parts, often up to 30%.
>3. Shop around. There are many resellers selling the same exact parts on eBay, find the one with the best price.
>4. Scrutinize the details of the auction. For example, make sure CPU stepping / revision is correct to what you need. Make sure components are listed as functioning and not "for parts only".
>5. Do not, under any circumstances buy QA/QC/QS/ES labled CPUs. Only buy official used / refurbished Intel Xeon CPUs. Chips with this label are not guaranteed to work, and might break functionality with something as simple as a BIOS update.
>6. Check sources other than Ebay. /r/buildapcsales can be a huge help with this. Amazon or Newegg often have huge sales on some of the new parts. Shop around people!
>
>Build
>
>http://i.imgur.com/X1NzK7Z.png
>
>http://i.imgur.com/r2d3lQp.png
>
>http://i.imgur.com/AHQJmto.png
>
>Type|Item|Price (eBay) | OBO? | OBO price
>:----|:----|:----|:---- |:----
>CPU | 2x Intel Xeon E5-2650 2.00GHz, 8 core 16 thread | Incl w/ MOBO | |
>Motherboard | Supermicro X9DRi-LN4F+ Dual Socket | $281.98 | YES | $260
>RAM | 16GB (4X4GB) DDR3 ECC REG x 2 | $29.89 ea | YES | $25.00 ea
>CPU Cooler | 2x Arctic Freezer i11 CO | $19.22 ea | |
>PSU | EVGA 450W BT | $24.99 | |
>EPS Splitter | 8 Pin to Dual 8 Pin EPS Splitter | $6.00 | |
>24 Pin Extention | 12" 24 Pin Power Extention | $9.99 | |
>Case | Phanteks Enthoo Pro | $79.99 | $15 MIR | $64.99
>Thermal Compound | Gelid GC Extreme | $12.99 | |
>Other | Tax, shipping, fees | $3.60 | |
>Total | | $517.76 | after OBO | $471
>Optional Extras | Sata cable 6 pack | $7.49 | |
>Optional Extras | Sata power splitter | $6.27| |
>
>---
>
>About this build:
>
>There you have it. If you recall, the original $500 build actually used this same CPU. BUT ONLY 1!. Here, we used 2, gave it more RAM, and all for over $50 less!
>
> General: I recently completed almost this exact build, same mobo, case, etc. Just ended up with different RAM config, and used dual E5-2630L CPU's that i got for a steal. This build will be using two Intel Xeon processors on Intel Socket 2011 motherboard with Quad-Channel DDR3-ECC RDIMM memory. It does not include specifications for SSD or HDD.
> CPU: The Intel Xeon E5-2650 is a high power, 8 core, 16 thread CPU that came out Q1 2012. 2.0Ghz clock, 2.8 Ghz turbo. It has a counterpart, the E5-2600L series who are also 8 cores, but low power. If you don't need quite as much Passmark power, these are also a power saving option at a slightly lower price point. MSRP when it was released was around $1100.00 USD Each. Plex Transcoder has true multi-threaded support and will take advantage of all 32 threads. So while this CPU might not be clocked as fast as what most of you are used to, the sheer amount of cores/threads will more than make up for it. Dual E5-2650's will score 15000 on passmark. Another thing to consider is that since the CPU is so cheap, you won't have to worry about it when it comes time to upgrade in the future. You can replace it with any V1 or V2 E5-2600 series cpu's. Dual E5-2660 V2, 10 core 20 thread, 2.20GHz base / 3.00 Ghz turbo in the future for about +4000 extra passmark score.
> Motherboard: Supermicro X9DRi-LN4F (Link to Supermicro Product Spec Page) This motherboard has dual 2011 sockets with a whopping 24 DIMM slots. With this build we'll be using only 8 of those available DIMMS, so there's a possible future upgrade. 6 SATA ports are standard, along with 2 SAS ports, for a total of 14 available SATA connections. Quad Gigabit NIC is also standard, plus IPMI.
> RAM: Here, we're using 8x4GB DDR3 ECC REG for quad channel support, and a total of 32GB of available memory. 32GB is a good value here. Another 2 sets would fill all 24 slots, for a total of 96GB.
> CPU Cooler: There's not much to say here. It's compatible, it's quiet, and it works. We won't be overclocking, so there's not much to worry about so long as it works. Also designed for continuous operations.
> PSU: It's cheap, powerful enough, and works. Not much more to say.
> Case: This case has full SSI-EEB+ (E-ATX with specialized mounting) support. Supports 6 3.5" hard drives two 2.5" SSDs, and two 5.25" bays natively. It's an all-around wonderful case, and it's really well-constructed (I have one, it's great). Also, one of the few cases that actually will fit this massive MOBO. In the front is a MASSIVE 200mm intake fan. Didn't even know they made them that big.
> Splitter/Extension These are necessary with the parts listed above to work. The power supply listed only has 1 8 Pin EPS connection for the CPU. Since we have 2, need a splitter. If you use a different PSU, check on the # of EPS connections. If it has 2, this part is not necessary. This board BARELY fits in the case. I know, I have both! Here's some pictures to show. Because of this, wiring the power can be a bit tricky, and to get it done in a clean way, need the 12" extension.
> Thermal Paste This is the best non-liquid metal thermal compound out there, hands down.
>
>Cautionary notes, other details
>
>1. Server equipment is stripped down to the bare minimum for compatibility and reliability. Because of this, features you are used to having might be missing - for example, some server motherboards don't have onboard audio. Also, most will use VGA onboard.
>2. Use a SSD for your host OS. This is likely where your Plex metadata will live, so if you're going to generate thumbnails and you have a sizeable library, make sure to get an appropriate size. I have about 20TB of media with thumbnails turned on, and 500GB is starting to feel tight. About 250GB is a good start for most people.
>3. Familiarize yourself with the BIOS options. Some may be different than consumer models. Make sure Hyper-threading is turned on in the BIOS. When in doubt, clear the CMOS / reset to default. You should verify that all 24-threads are showing in your host OS.
>4. Almost any OS will work. Includes ESXI, unRAID, FreeNAS, Linux, and Windows of course.
>5. Evaluate your RAID options. This motherboard has capabilities for onboard RAID, but that isn't for everyone.
>
>Upgrades, other parts
>
>1. Cheap storage in the form of $33 refurbished 2TB Hitachi Ultrastar hard drives. These are Enterprise level drives, great for use with RAID arrays.
>2. Sell the pair of E5-2650's & get Dual E5-2660 V2, 10 core 20 thread, 2.20GHz base / 3.00 Ghz turbo for 19,000 Passmark score. At time of posting these were $249.99 OBO w/ free shipping, extremely great value currently. If you're more concerned about power consumption, consider a pair of E5-2650L's for $41.50 each OBO at the time of this post, for a sweet ~14k passmark at only 70w TDP each.
>3. MORE RAM!
>4. Liquid cooling - If you plan on upgrading to V2's this is a good idea. Can get Corsair H55's for $60 each.
>5. DO IT ALL! If you want more power right now, sell the CPU's that come with the mobo for ~80 and grab a pair of E5-2660's for $240. Triple the RAM for an extra $100. Liquid cool the PSU's for an added $80. Finally, upgrade to a 550w semi modular 80+ gold psu for an extra ~$30 (one's on sale @ Newegg for $55 after MIR currently). Grand Total: around $840.
>
>FAQ
>
> Q: Aren't used parts unreliable?*

Be aware, I mostly would do gaming PC builds over workstation ones since I do not personally do not do much more than a bit of video editing and gaming, you may want a 2nd opinion.

Cad seems to favor Nvidia GPUs and Nvidia has the most capable 4k60fps GPUs (although price/performance isn't great). You may want to consider the RTX 2080 Super which should be a little above the GTX 1080 ti (and similar performing RTX 2080) or get a 2080 ti but all should be able to handle 4k60fps pretty well (but 4k60fps ultra settings are going to still be pretty hard to do). Autocad doesn't seem very graphically intensive especially if you are more focused on 2D over 3D so you can probably get by with a much cheaper card (if you weren't looking at 4k60fps gaming). RTX 2070 Super is another option at slightly below RTX 2080 performance.

https://www.gamersnexus.net/images/media/2018/gpus/workstation/workstation-gpu-benchmark_autodesk-autocad.png

For the CPU, I usually recommend the R7 3700x for great all around performance but with AutoCAD being very single threaded heavy, the i7 9700k should perform a bit better. If you use other programs that can actually scale with more cores, the i9 9900k or R9 3900x may be a better overall CPU for you.

Ram should be a 2x16GB set of Micron E-Die since it is the best budget overclocking ram and should overclock to 3600mhz cas16 without breaking a sweat with higher speed or tighter timings being possible too. Lots of people over in /r/Autocad seem to push for getting 32GB RAM but 16GB will still work. Personally if I am using my computer for making money, I would get the 32GB.

Current cheapest set

https://pcpartpicker.com/product/CdyV3C/crucial-ballistix-sport-lt-32-gb-2-x-16-gb-ddr4-3000-memory-bls2k16g4d30aesc

Any of these with a model number xxxxxAESx is E-Die based (avoid the xxxBESx, xxxBETx, or xxxCESx stuff). Here is that list sorted by price/GB (sometimes 2 sets of 1x16GB will be cheaper than a single 2x16GB set).

https://pcpartpicker.com/products/memory/#s=403000,403200&m=12&Z=16384001,32768002&sort=ppgb&B=1300000000,2500000000&L=30,160&page=1

Lots of this really depend on what your workloads look like and the exact programs you are running. You may want to ask around /r/buildapcforme since this is a bit more than a simple question.

8 core/16 thread AMD R7 3700x build (+$169 for 12 core/24 thread R9 3900x)

PCPartPicker Part List

Type|Item|Price

----|:----|:----
CPU | AMD Ryzen 7 3700X 3.6 GHz 8-Core Processor | $329.00 @ B&H
CPU Cooler | Thermalright Macho Rev.B 73.6 CFM CPU Cooler | $49.90 @ Amazon
Motherboard | MSI B450 TOMAHAWK ATX AM4 Motherboard | $114.89 @ OutletPC
Memory | Crucial Ballistix Sport LT 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR4-3000 Memory | $129.99 @ Newegg
Storage | Sabrent Rocket 1 TB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive | $109.98 @ Amazon
Video Card | EVGA GeForce RTX 2080 SUPER 8 GB XC GAMING Video Card | $734.89 @ OutletPC
Case | Fractal Design Meshify C ATX Mid Tower Case | $66.99 @ Walmart
Power Supply | EVGA 750 W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-modular ATX Power Supply | $60.73 @ Walmart
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total (before mail-in rebates) | $1616.37
| Mail-in rebates | -$20.00
| Total | $1596.37
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2019-08-16 04:26 EDT-0400 |


8 core/8 thread Intel i7 9700KF build (+$100 for 8 core/16 thread i9 9900kF) -KF is the alternate to the -K series with a disabled iGPU but currently at a reduced cost.

PCPartPicker Part List

Type|Item|Price

----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel Core i7-9700KF 3.6 GHz 8-Core Processor | $349.89 @ OutletPC
CPU Cooler | Thermalright Macho Rev.B 73.6 CFM CPU Cooler | $49.90 @ Amazon
Motherboard | ASRock Z390 Extreme4 ATX LGA1151 Motherboard | $129.99 @ Newegg
Memory | Crucial Ballistix Sport LT 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR4-3000 Memory | $129.99 @ Newegg
Storage | Sabrent Rocket 1 TB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive | $109.98 @ Amazon
Video Card | EVGA GeForce RTX 2080 SUPER 8 GB XC GAMING Video Card | $734.89 @ OutletPC
Case | Fractal Design Meshify C ATX Mid Tower Case | $66.99 @ Walmart
Power Supply | EVGA 750 W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-modular ATX Power Supply | $60.73 @ Walmart
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total (before mail-in rebates) | $1652.36
| Mail-in rebates | -$20.00
| Total | $1632.36
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2019-08-16 04:35 EDT-0400 |

Cheaper options would be getting the RTX 2070 Super ($500), the 6 core/12 thread R5 3600 ($200) or even 6 core/6 thread i5 9600k ($220) or, 2x8GB RAM ($66), 256GB or 512GB SSD ($40-60).

Edit: for some reason the my first choice of CPU cooler wasn't showing up on pcpartpicker so here is the direct Amazon link to the Scythe Mugan Rev B. for $46.54 after 5% off.

https://www.amazon.com/Mugen-Rev-CPU-Cooler-Support/dp/B06ZYB8K77

Hey! It looks like you've got a pretty solid build started here! I just want to point out a few things to make your life just a little bit easier.

1. The motherboard you have will NOT work with the CPU that you've chosen. You picked a Z170A board, which works with the 6th and 7th generation (if BIOS is flashed) of Intel CPU's, and you're buying an 8th generation. So I would recommend this board or this one instead. Either will work, it just depends on how much money you want to spend.
   
2. Don't buy the power supply you've picked. It puts out way more wattage than you'll use, so I would recommend saving some money and maybe picking up this one. As a bonus it has an RGB fan, so that's kinda cool. It's also fully modular, meaning that you only need to plug the cables into the PSU that you need instead of having extras to hide in your case.
   
3. I'd also save some money on your RAM. This set is cheaper, faster, and only requires that you use two of your RAM slots instead of all four. More upgradeability in the future!
   
4. Think about if you really need 2TB of storage right now. The 1TB SSD you have picked out is going to be great, and if you're new to PC gaming it's going to have plenty of space for awhile. You can always pick up a new HDD (like the Seagate one you have in your cart) later down the road.
   
5. With the money that you've saved, I think that you could upgrade your graphics card from your 1060 (a GREAT option, don't get me wrong) to a 1070 like this one. (EVGA is a great company in my opinion, and I love their graphics cards.) It's a great contender for both 1440p and 1080p gaming!
   
6. Others have said to get a cheaper air cooler instead of opting for the water cooler that you've picked. If you decide to go that route (completely fine) I would maybe go with something like this if you want something extra beefy to keep your CPU cool, or this less beefy one. Either way, 8th generation CPUs run hot, so the water cooler you have would work great.
   
   So there ya go! I hope that you enjoy your new build, it's going to be amazing! If you PM me I'll add you on Steam and we can play some games together when your build is all set!

Don't be so sad my friend. Performance hasn't increased that much over the past couple of generations of Intel cpu's since Sandy Bridge. Yes a 4690K is an decent upgrade but overall 2500K is not a bad CPU at all. It's still better than almost every AMD CPU in many gaming scenarios.

My recommendation to you is to upgrade your GPU to GTX 970 or similar for amazing value, and then buy an aftermarket cooler for your cpu, so you can overclock your CPU to hefty speeds. Something like the Thermalright True Spirit 140 Power is incredible good for the size and prize. Link to Amazon. Or the Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO is also very capable for overclocking, though the Thermalright True Spirit 140 power is still quite a bit better.

Here are some video tutorials for overclocking the i5 2500K if you are new to this. It's not as hard as many people think. You don't have to overclock it to extremes, but maybe just a slight overclock like 4.2 or 4.3 GHz with slight voltage increase should be enough and give a decent boost. This small of an overclock might not even require an aftermarket CPU cooler(you can try), but I would recommend it anyways since it is less noisy than the stock cooler, and you can maybe use it for your next CPU too for overclocking.

This will give you a lot of performance increase combined with a GTX 970 upgrade. Though overclocking might not be necessary at first, unless you notice some performance issues.

3d printable frunk fan stl file
I used tinkercad to mod the original file, (it took hours to do) it’s designed to suck air out of the headset using a Noctua NF-A4x10 5V, Premium Quiet Fan
The heat isn’t that bad but after a hour of playing it starts getting pretty warm, the fan should be really quiet and the lens cover will still go on to keep the appearance of a stock headset (I might have to add 4 small 3x3mm magnets to keep the cove gap big enough for airflow)

Edit
I’m still waiting on the 5 volt noctua fan from Amazon, it should be here In 2 days I will update this post with temperature improvements and overall review.

Edit
I got the noctua 5v fan installed and it works good, I can hear it running when I’m on steamvr home and there’s no background noise but in game I can’t hear it at all.
The airflow is very gentle, I can only feel it on my eyeballs if I open them fully and lift the bottom of the hmd to increase the gap around my big nose.
The hmd stays cooler, I feel like I can play for extended periods of time easily.

Edit
I just played blades and sorcery for 40 minutes it still got hot and sweaty in the hmd, I’m hot sure if 2 fans would be better or just dry out your eyes? Maybe the best option is still a room fan, shorts, and no shirt lol

Yeah I believe that H7 would be a step to right direction, but honestly I would go with somethin like this
https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-NH-D15-heatpipe-NF-A15-140mm/dp/B00L7UZMAK

Or this https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00HPX7J4K/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1494584874&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=be+quiet+dark+rock+pro+3&dpPl=1&dpID=41f-YJuctCL&ref=plSrch

They are really expensive, that is true, but they pack serious cooling power. You have quaranteed silent operation and possibility of overclocking as much as you want. These two coolers THE best ones around beating all of the $150 aios too. It's just cool to have that I7 running over 5ghz with good temps and silently. But yeah that cryorig is surely going to let you oc till something like 4,6ghz still staying reasonably quiet. Choise is yours.

Your pc just literally has the best components available, I feel like it would deserve good cooler to keep it cozy;)

Ps funny thing about those noctua fans is that they alone cost 20 bucks a piece, and are seriously awesome fans, quiet, efficient and long lasting, I'm running two of the indusrial versions on my build

>A few people recommended having 4 separate RAM sticks rather than 2 so that when one ends up getting maxed out, the other isn't over-bared/"locked up" with the same task. They said it would free up continuity for having more processes going at once. They edited heavily as well, so that's the only reason I thought they might know what they were talking about; but they could be just as wrong.

Yes, I would say that falls into the 'superstition' category of things. The memory controller can only access one stick per channel at a time, so all having more sticks does is increase the load on the memory controller. Some people notice they have reduced OC capabilities running 4 sticks over 2.

So overall, 2 sticks gives you the benefit of minimizing the load on the memory controller, leaving 2 slots free for a future upgrade if desired, and potentially leaves you more OC headroom.

>As for the SSD, my friend has had that one for a few years and it's been alright. I only intend to have the OS on there; and since it was cheaper and I only needed one thing attained to it, I figured it made sense.

If your friend bought one a while ago, he probably got the original version of that drive which came with much better Synchronous NAND. About a year ago Kingston quietly swapped out the Synchronous NAND for cheaper, but slower Asynchronous NAND. I won't really get into the controversy here, but essentially the V-series has always used the cheaper Asynch NAND, and they make no advertisement as to the type of NAND it comes with. They can continue to advertise the same 'speeds' on the specs because when empty with the Sandforce controller the ATTO results remain the same. It's when you start filling it that performance starts to degrade significantly and noticeably.

>I'll probably take you up on that side fan for the case, because I rather the look of the original Phantom case honestly. I'll think on it. Thanks for warning me about the airflow though!

As long as you know what you're getting into. Don't say I didn't warn you!

I'll link you to the Phantom 530 in White and Phantom 630 in White just in case though.

-----
Edit: Also, one last thing, the CPU cooler. I would suggest getting something a bit different from the bland old EVO. At a similar price range, I like the be quiet! Shadow Rock 2. Moving up a bit, the Thermalright True Spirit 140 Power gets my vote - it's extremely quiet, but also one of the most powerful air coolers on the market. Also available on Amazon.

Well Apple does this thing with their products where they sacrifice adequate cooling for aesthetics. They rather sell products that look really good but thermal throttle when trying to do anything challenging in cool ambient temps, or throttle doing anything in warm/hot ambient temps. This one kid in one of my courses this past semester had a Macbook pro that he would sometimes edit his highlight clips [he played football (soccer here in the states) I think] and it would throttle almost immediately when editing/compressing the video.





Anyway, here's what you can do:




Your cheapest option is to buy a cooling pad with fans on it to get more air-flow where it is needed. Although Macbooks do not have air-intake on the bottom, it should help at least a little bit.





Your second option is more expensive than buying a cooling pad but would be the most effective as well as the most difficult to do. This would be taking it apart and reapplying the thermal interface material as well as thoroughly cleaning the heat-sink and fan of all dust and debris. You'd need to buy tools necessary to get the job done (I'd recommend the iFixit pro tech toolkit, it is one of the best investments I've ever made) and some good thermal paste like Noctua NT-H1. Here is a step by step guide to do so






Third option is the most expensive, which is to buy a new laptop. Preferably not a macbook as Apple still does not provide adequate cooling on their devices for warmer climates, although modern CPUs are much more efficient now so it might work fine.

Got any ideas for budget? Also, what software will you be using and what bitrate, resolution and general quality settings are you planning on encoding at? Is it also a necessity for 32GB of RAM? You would probably be able to save a good chunk of money to put towards other parts if you went with 16 or perhaps 24.

---

I'm not sure on the display outputs of the GTX 480, however running 3 monitors off of that and one off your onboard graphics chip you should be good to go (aslong as the connections aren't VGA, as corpnewt mentioned; it's quite hit-and-miss). For onboard graphics I'd recommend a motherboard with a HD530 chip, they're pretty well supported and off the top of my head require 2 bootflags to get working.

---

In terms of motherboards it's not particularly my forte, so I may be wrong on some of these things. I think it's generally accepted that Gigabyte motherboards are the best for hackintoshing and are all round great boards, so I'd definitely recommend one. As I said you'd probably want a board with a HD530 chip, or another chip with similar support. Assuming you want 32 gig of RAM you're gonna need support for that, and if you go for 16 for now you still might want to go for a board that supports 32 incase you decide to upgrade in the future or if 16 is not enough. I'd also recommend the 115x chipset as imo is going to give you the most choices on CPU with the best compatibility. After some talks with /u/CorpNewt he suggested this Gigabyte board. It's got enough PCI-E slots, supported onboard graphics (HD530), support for 64gb of RAM, ThunderBolt and good hackintosh support which should check all the boxes.

---

CPU? 6700k; 4 cores, 8 threads, 4.0Ghz clock speed, it's overclockability gives you some headroom if you ever need a bump in performance, the most powerful CPU you can get on Skylake currently (yes the enthusiast CPU's are round the corner but they are silly money and this should be plenty of power), great longevity, and most of all have good OSX support.

---

The CPU can be found here. You're gonna want a cooler such as a Hyper 212 Evo or a Corsair H55 AIO (I can vouch for this cooler, have one myself and it's great). If you plan on overclocking or want to just in case, you should probably look at something a bit beefier like a Corsair H100i AIO.

The mobo can be found here.

---

Feel free to fire away with any questions you have.

Suggest you open your case and dust out your fan. Is it a pre-built computer? Like you purchased it at a tech store everything just plug and go?

80 c is okay but if you open your case get some compressed air and dust it out. After you dust it out; check to see if it's just some stock fan [should look like this : https://d284x0ytlho6sy.cloudfront.net/images/400/AB54875.jpg ] It's most likely a stock fan if it's pre-built. It means your computer is heating up, but isn't getting rid of the heat so your fans spin at max speed which is generally pretty loud.

You can't upgrade your CPU, at least I don't think so. I'm looking up i5-4430 and I can't find the release date. I see some people post from 2013, if it's from then you might have a hard time finding CPU.



If you know how to build a PC or would like to learn I can post a budget PC around 500/600 that you can build.

Other suggestions is buying an aftermarket cooler, like this : https://www.amazon.com/Cooler-Master-Contact-Heatpipes-RR-T4-18PK-R1/dp/B00BSKY1M4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1496032529&sr=8-1&keywords=lga1150+cooler

Note that you'll need a thermal paste cleaner set like https://www.amazon.com/Arctic-Silver-Thermal-Compound-ArctiClean/dp/B002DILLMS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1496032562&sr=8-1&keywords=thermal+paste+kit
Some people use alcohol, I like this because it really removes the gunk. Especially if it's been years. You'll need that + Coffee filter cause it has no lent to clean it off. I think Coffee filters are cheapest and easiest IMO.

Edit: I should add you need the thermal kit cause if you take off your fan and etc you'll need to clean the paste off the CPU and the fan. I should ass you can just try cleaning the thermal paste and applying the new one from the kit and maybe it'll drop your temps :

Again if that route is complicated or you prefer to just have a new PC that'll do you some decent time in gaming here's the list of parts I'd recommend : https://pcpartpicker.com/user/PraY8D/saved/RQFD3C

I'd watch a youtube video and build it. This way you'll know 100% what parts. If you like to spend a little more around 550+ you can get a K chipset which has boost (runs faster when needed) also a after market fan = your machine won't be loud if the temps get high.

I'm very sorry I took my time to post everything. It took me a lot of time and well.. luck wasn't on my side either! But here it is /u/Sepheros, you've had a taste of this before. But I did change it around a little bit. I also will have to say, that I am going to add a few more small parts into the list tomorrow. Just tools that I forgot about.

I.. lost most of my work because my app derped out. This app keeps my text that I type saved.

I was at around 31.000 characters typed out and "almost" done.. I copy, paste about 13.000 characters from my saved files that I post in most of my suggestions.. but still. I was very mad.

So I had to re-make everything again.. So sorry for that, I should've typed it in a text file and simply save it there. Sigh! Oh well. (I did this now!)

---

I will provide you with my standard list of videos to help you understand why I suggest these parts.

I also give out a couple of great guides to help you build the PC. I'll also provide a couple extra videos to explain and help you with the full custom watercooling setup.

I then also provide a lot of great software that I use when I overclock the PC.

And finally, I will provide you with my rationale of all the parts. I'll split this up in 2 parts, the PC hardware & peripherals and the watercooling parts.

---

PCPartPicker part list

Type|Item|Price

----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel Core i7-5820K 3.3GHz 6-Core Processor | $380.11 @ B&H
CPU Cooler | Cooler Master Hyper T4 70.0 CFM Rifle Bearing CPU Cooler | $23.19 @ Amazon
Thermal Compound| Noctua NT-H1| $7.64 @ Amazon
Motherboard | MSI X99S SLI Krait ATX LGA2011-3 Motherboard | $239.99 @ Newegg
Memory | Crucial Ballistix Sport LT 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2400 Memory | $68.99 @ Adorama
Storage | A-Data Premier SP550 240GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | $57.99 @ Amazon
Storage | Samsung 950 PRO 256GB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive | $181.99 @ B&H
Storage | Seagate 4TB 3.5" 5900RPM Internal Hard Drive | $134.49 @ Mac Mall
Video Card | Asus GeForce GTX 970 4GB STRIX Video Card (2-Way SLI) | $318.99 @ Amazon
Video Card | Asus GeForce GTX 970 4GB STRIX Video Card (2-Way SLI) | $318.99 @ Amazon
Case | Phanteks Enthoo Primo White ATX Full Tower Case | Purchased For $0.00
Case Fan | 6 x Cougar Dual-X 73.2 CFM 140mm Fan | $100.44 @ Amazon
Cables| Noctua NA-SEC1 | $8.00 @ Amazon
Cables| SilverStone CPF01 | $4.39 @ Amazon
Power Supply | Corsair RMx 850W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply | $129.99 @ Amazon
Cables| CableMod C-Series RMi, RMx Cable Kit - Black/Green| $100.00 @ PerformancePCs
Monitor | Asus PB258Q 60Hz 25.0" Monitor | $338.88 @ Amazon
Watercooling| EK CPU Waterblock - Star Wars "Jedi Order" | $83.00 @ PerformancePCs
"| 2 x EK-FC970 GTX Strix - Acetal Nickel | $249.00 @ PerformancePCs
"| 2 x EK-FC970 GTX Strix Backplate - Nickel | $88.00 @ PerformancePCs
"| Alphacool NexXxoS UT60 Full Copper 280mm | $92.00 @ PerformancePCs
"| Alphacool NexXxoS XT45 Full Copper 420mm | $87.00 @ PerformancePCs
"| PrimoChill CTR™ Compression Tube Reservoir System Phase 2 - 240mm Green | $60.00 @ PerformancePCs
"| Swiftech MCP655 G1/4 Threaded Special Edition 12 VDC D5 Pump With Speed Controller | $94.00 @ PerformancePCs
"| 10 x PrimoFlex Advanced LRT Tubing - 3/8in. ID X 5/8in. OD - Atomic UV Green Limited Edition | $25.00 @ PerformancePCs
"| 2 x Monsoon 45° Rotary Angle Fitting - 5/8" - Green + White Accent Disk | $22.28 @ PerformancePCs
"| 2 x Monsoon Free Center Compression Fittings, 3/8" x 5/8" Six Pack - White | $72.00 @ PerformancePCs
"| 2 x Monsoon 90° Rotary Angle Fitting - 5/8" - Green + White Accent Disk | $22.28 @ PerformancePCs
"| EK-FC Terminal Triple Parallel - Acetal | $28.00 @ PerformancePCs
"| Alphacool 2-way Ball Valve | $10.00 @ PerformancePCs
"| XSPC G1/4" Male to Male Rotary Fitting | $4.00 @ PerformancePCs
Watercooling| Alphacool 16/10 Compression Fitting G1/4 | $7.00 @ PerformancePCs
| Prices include shipping, taxes and discounts |
| Total | $3358.96
| Generated by Kiwiandapple |

The picture you found is a bit blurry. That "IT856SE" you are seeing could actually be "IT8665E"?

There is an extended version of the it87 driver that's not in the normal kernel, and it has an "IT8665E" in its device ID list:

https://github.com/bbqlinux/it87

It is not mentioned in the README text, but the IT8665E support is inside that "it87.c" file.

Sadly, the person that worked on extending the it87 module gave up recently, he felt he had no time to do a good job. I don't know if there's someone else actively working on it somewhere.

Anyway... on Arch you have this special version of the it87 driver in the AUR as:

it87-dkms-git

This AUR package should be easy to use if everything works right. Before you install it, you just have to make sure you have the "...-headers" package for the kernel you are using installed. For example, if you use "linux" then install "linux-headers", or if you use "linux-lts" install "linux-lts-headers".


If nothing works, you could do a hardware solution. A simple way to solve this is to wire the PWM signal from the CPU fan header to all case fans. You then go and set the fan curves in the motherboard's BIOS menus, and you are done.

There's inexpensive fan hub products to do this. If your case fans are 4-pin PWM fans, the products are quite cheap, but there's also versions that can translate a PWM signal into voltage control for 3-pin fans, so 3-pin case fans can be made to work as well.

Here's two examples of what I'm thinking about:

https://www.amazon.com/SilverStone-System-Cables-Black-CPF04/dp/B00VNW556I/

https://noctua.at/en/products/accessories/fan-control/na-fc1

This one here can drive 3-pin fans, it translates the PWM signal into different voltages so it's more expensive:

https://www.amazon.com/Phanteks-PWM-Fan-Controller-PH-PWHUB_01/dp/B00M0R05WE/

All of those products get power from a cable that's connecting to the PSU. This is so they won't overload the motherboard fan header. They only connect to the motherboard fan header to get the PWM speed signal but won't draw power from there.

You can also make the graphics card drive case fans in hardware. There are adapter cables that can connect into that tiny 4-pin fan header that graphics card have. You can then get the fan signal from the graphics card to one or two case fans. Those adapters cables are a bit hard to find. You could do a setup where the motherboard's CPU fan header drives a case fan or two, and the GPU drives a case fan or two.

ALRIGHT! Sorry for just getting back to you I've been trying to reply and mobile and kept accidentally deleting what i typed while trying to format my response. So had to move to the Laptop.

Anyways when I say you should repaste I'm referring to the action of removing the heatsink from the CPU and GPU clearing the provided "thermal paste/grease" (thermal paste or grease depending to who you talk to is a thermally conductive paste that is meant to be between the CPU/GPU and the heatsink to fill the airgap and conduct heat to the sink better.) from both and applying new paste. Here is also a video guide on how to apply thermal paste it doesn't pertain specifically to your laptop but gives you a good idea on how its done.

Now when it comes to your device I took the liberty of looking up the service manual and found a video guide on how to disassemble down the the motherboard here. If you've never done anything like this before it can be a little daunting, but if you have a friend with some experience it shouldn't be more than a few hours project and the outcome should be considerably better than before.

If you are going to go this route there are a few thermal pastes that everyone recommends and everyone has their own opinions but as I stated before any of these will be better than what you originally had so buy whatever fits your budget.

Artic Silver 5

IC-Diamond

Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut

Prolimatech PK-3

There are plenty of others but any of these will do you good, with a major recommendation to the Silver 5 due to bang for the buck.

After all that and you decide that maybe you don't want to do a repaste (and even if you did repaste I'm still recommending this) you are going to want to get a laptop cooling pad. The reason is due to the nature of laptops and how compact they are sometimes depending on the surface they are laid on they do not get enough air to cool properly, dropping your performance into the shitter. I have a similarly spec'd laptop to yours (Lenovo Y50 4700hq and 860m) and I use the Notepal XSlim its not the best but it does the job and for $18 I can't complain. There are others but buy what feels right to you.

Sorry for the long winded post I hope this helps you some, and I hope you can get your laptop performance back as you have a more than capable laptop. Let me know if you need anything else!

I would go ahead and get a Z68 motherboard. There's really no reason not to, and it has more features that you can use down the road:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813128498

The above board is one that I've worked with and had a great deal of success with, it's very nice, and has a longer warranty than the ASRock 2-year warranty.

It's interesting to hear that you can't run the HD audio for BF2 with your current board. I have a older Core i7 (Socket 1366) Gigabyte board based on the X58 chipset, and I'm able to play Bad Company 2 with all of the sound features available.

I have a feeling that the board above or even the ASRock will be able to handle the high end audio of most games, however if you're interested in a nice sound card (i.e. you have some nice speakers, possibly a surround sound setuo), I would probably recommend an HT Omega card, such as this one: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16829271001

But if you're gaming with two speakers, you're likely fine with the onboard sound.

For thermal paste, I recommend using IC Diamond thermal compound. This is especially helpful if you have not build a system in years: it has similar/slightly better performance than Arctic Silver 5, but is made of diamonds instead of silver, which means it is not electrically conductive. If heaven forbid you get thermal paste on something, it won't also risk being the source of a short.

You can get a tube of IC Diamond on Amazon.com through the company Platinum Micro here: http://www.amazon.com/DIAMOND-CARAT-GRAM-THERMAL-COMPOUND/dp/B0042IEVD8

Or from Xoxide, a very reputable cooling supplies retailer, here:http://www.xoxide.com/ic-diamond-7.html

Regarding a wireless card, simply put, a wireless card just adds to the cost and complexity of the board. The focus, until the very high end, is on performance per dollar. The vast majority of enthusiasts are slamming the $150-$200 board market, and most don't care if the thing has a wireless card as long as it's fast, reliable, has a good warranty, and is cheap. Once you get to the high-high end, folks are looking for very well rounded features, gimmick designs or other neat stuff that makes their build interesting on top of being very fast.

For your choice of SSD and input on that, please check this guide: http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/best-ssd-caching,2966.html

Checked the list, nice build. A few comments -

• I strongly encourage you to use an SSD over a mechanical HDD, load times will be dramatically reduced everywhere. I got the SX8200 Pro 512GB and the price is awesome for the performance of the drive at $80. Even with Win10 and a ton of programs and games installed I'm barely using half of it:
  
  https://www.amazon.com/XPG-SX8200-Gen3x4-3000MB-ASX8200PNP-1TT-C/dp/B07K1HMMJC
  
  
• Check out this cheaper CPU cooler, the 212 Black Edition, it gets very good reviews. Keep in mind you don't actually need a cooler the 9400F comes with one, but the after market one will cool better and be quieter:
  
  https://www.amazon.com/Cooler-Master-RR-212S-20PK-R1-Contact-Silencio/dp/B07H25DYM3/
  
  
• I recommend the NZXT H500i case, it's considerably cheaper then the one you picked and also very nice looking, it's the one I use. You will not need to add any fans to it either your 9400F and 2070 will run very cool and quiet. Either case is great though:
  
  https://www.amazon.com/Computer-digital-control-lighting-CA-H500W-W1/dp/B07CC5HLFB
  
  Good luck with the build!

Here's my list of parts for your build:

CPU: AMD 3600X should handle any workload you throw at it and gaming with ease. This is an overclockable chip so if you want to try some overclocking later on you can do so to get some extra performance out of your CPU. If you do plan on overclocking then I suggest this cooler to keeps temps down.

Motherboard: the ASRock X570 Phantom has two PCI-E x16 slots and two PCI-E x1 slots so you can add another GPU for SLI or add a wireless card in the future.

RAM: I chose the G.Skill Ripjaws V because it has a low latency and has the 3600 speed that Ryzen 3rd gen demands. 3600 is the sweet spot for this gen and does a wonderful job in adding performance to this AMD CPU. It can also handle having 50+ tabs in chrome open for your workload.

Storage: the Intel 660p 1.02TB SSD has plenty of fast storage in a small M.2 factor with no SATA cables going to it leaving less cable management to do plus leaving more hard drive storage in the future.

Video Card: the ASRock Radeon RX 5700 8 GB might not be the best on the market but for gaming it will do just fine and should run all games at 1920x1080 at 60fps. Core clock speeds at 1515 MHz and Boost clock speed at 1750 means that while gaming it will automatically boost itself to give you more performance when you need it.

Case: I chose the cheapest I could in black that gave you plenty of airflow and space to work in while building inside of it.

Power Supply: the Corsair RMx (2018) 650 W 80+ Gold will allow you in the future to upgrade your hardware and still have power left over. You can even overclock your CPU and GPU if you want and have a lot of headroom still.

Case fans: I added Rosewill fans for $15 just to add some more airflow to the case. These are quiet under load and shouldn't be too loud.

Custom parts: I also added a bluetooth dongle so you can connect your mouse and keyboard since the motherboard doesn't have onboard wifi or bluetooth. For $8 it isn't bad and is a great little dongle for the money.

Total: $1068.81 USD

Summary: this is what I've gotten together for you for under your 1000 EUR budget and I hope it's been helpful. If you like it please let me know. Thanks!

I don't have anything "better" as much as... probably more cost effective.

The CoolerMaster Hyper T4 is the "low-cost budget" choice at $30 USD / $40 AUD. Its inferior but cheaper.

At ~130W, the Hyper T4 is +31C over Ambient, while the NH-D15 is +18C over Ambient. Since CPUs don't throttle till like 80C.

So how hot is your area? Like 30C? 35C? Even at 35C ambient, you can safely go +55C before throttling, and CPUs function to 100C.

Note that the 8700k is a 95W CPU. You'll only draw 130W if you overclock. Hyper T4 is a very "budget" cooler too. I'm sorta choosing it as "the other side" of the spectrum.

That's why I'm wondering if you're planning to overclock. 95W is pretty easy to cool, you don't need to buy a $100+ cooler to cool off 95W stock speeds. Only if you overclock to 130W or higher power usage will you need a better cooler than a typical budget-cooler.

-------------------

It really depends on how much money you're willing to spend too. The NH-D15 is one of the best air coolers. I just wanna make sure you're willing to pay for it. You pretty much can get any cooler between $40 AUD to $130 AUD, with noise / cooling performance scaling between those extremes.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

Type|Item|Price

----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel Core i7-5820K 3.3GHz 6-Core Processor | $369.99 @ SuperBiiz
CPU Cooler | Corsair H110i GTX 104.7 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler | $99.99 @ Newegg
Motherboard | Asus X99-M WS Micro ATX LGA2011-3 Motherboard | $263.99 @ SuperBiiz
Memory | Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (4 x 4GB) DDR4-3000 Memory | $83.88 @ OutletPC
Storage | Samsung 950 PRO 512GB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive | $317.99 @ SuperBiiz
Video Card | EVGA GeForce GTX 1080 8GB Founders Edition Video Card | $699.99 @ SuperBiiz
Case | Fractal Design Node 804 MicroATX Mid Tower Case | $106.99 @ SuperBiiz
Power Supply | EVGA 1050W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply | $149.99 @ Amazon
Case Fan | EK Vardar F2-120 52.0 CFM 120mm Fan | $19.99 @ NCIX US
Case Fan | EK Vardar F2-120 52.0 CFM 120mm Fan | $19.99 @ NCIX US
Case Fan | EK Vardar F2-120 52.0 CFM 120mm Fan | $19.99 @ NCIX US
Case Fan | EK Vardar F2-120 52.0 CFM 120mm Fan | $19.99 @ NCIX US
Case Fan | EK Vardar F2-120 52.0 CFM 120mm Fan | $19.99 @ NCIX US
Case Fan | EK Vardar F2-140 84.0 CFM 140mm Fan | $24.95 @ Amazon
Case Fan | EK Vardar F2-140 84.0 CFM 140mm Fan | $24.95 @ Amazon
Case Fan | EK Vardar F2-140 84.0 CFM 140mm Fan | $24.95 @ Amazon
Case Fan | EK Vardar F2-140 84.0 CFM 140mm Fan | $24.95 @ Amazon
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total | $2292.56
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-06-25 21:32 EDT-0400 |

X99 i7 is a fantastic workstation chipset with at least 6 cores.

PCPARTPICKER thinks the h110i is not compatible with this case. It is, I found a post on reddit using these two parts and asked the OP if he needed to do any case mods or had difficulty. He did not and had submitted a request to PCPP to remove the warning. The rear PSU chamber can accommodate this radiator. Having a 280mm radiator for just the CPU will provide plenty of cooling for overclocking. 280mm is the largest you can get for an all in one water cooler.

The Asus workstation (ws) motherboard is definitely one of the best, most reliable motherboards. This is the micro ATX version.

The corsair vengeance LPX (low profile) RAM is very high quality stuff. I've included 16 GB worth that is rated to 3k hz.

The 950 Pro is a very reliable and incredibly fast m2 SSD drive. M2 drives mount directly to the motherboard increasing speed dramatically and reducing cable clutter. No cables are required at all.

The GTX 1080 is the current flagship card from NVIDIA.

This power supply is one of the top rated PSU's for reliability and can supply 1050 watts. Plenty of overhead for overclocking.

These fans are quiet and powerful, specially designed for radiator cooling. Put 4 140mm on the 280mm radiator in the rear chamber. 2 on the top and 2 on the bottom for push/pull. 4 120mm fans go in the front for intake. 1 120mm fan goes in the exhaust port of the front motherboard chamber.

The main draw of this case, other than it's fantastic good looks, huge window, and 1 foot cubed size for portability, is it's dual chamber design. The rear chamber can accommodate the CPU cooler and PSU, cooling just those components, while the front can cool your GPU and motherboard without having to deal with the extra heat from the components being cooled in the rear. It's definitely my favorite case. Also, if you later want to try a custom loop, you can fit a 280mm rad in the rear, and a 240mm rad in the front. Check out the OC3D review of the case on YouTube for more information on the case.

Note: you might need a PWM fan controller to run all these fans.

https://www.amazon.com/Phanteks-PWM-Fan-Controller-PH-PWHUB_01/dp/B00M0R05WE

This one is fine, stick it on the rear chamber side of the metal divider the motherboard is mounted to.

Ok my stuff is jacked up right now it's saying I got 9 comments but I can't see any of them. So what do you guys think if I can resell my off whites for a good price I might just build another rig however until then this is what I chose.

Please shit all over it and tell me something better. My motherboard is also RGB controllable or whatever for the front radiator unless putting the radiator in the front is a huge no no even if you rig it so it exhausts out the up and out the front. Okay here are the things I've decided on just by glancing over every category.

Air coolers I saw ones that looked better and even had better specs but were only $20 also it seems like noctua is still pretty strong/on top but I don't know who's on top of the cpu cooling game. I'll be posting more soon or I'll just finish it quick. I'm assuming artic mx4 compound is best now or is it still the silver artic 5?

1. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HPX7J4K/ref=psdc_11036281_t5_B00L7UZMAK
   
2. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01B12DQ38/ref=sspa_dk_detail_3?pd_rd_i=B076KNKR73&pd_rd_wg=XY5On&pd_rd_r=VAR26GMWD450BQE9HFE4&pd_rd_w=TiNwH&th=1
   
   Lastly don't laugh but i figured why not install this or are heatsinks on GPUs pointless even if I ran a liquid cooler/block? Yay or nay?
   
   https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IAAU6SS/ref=psdc_3015421011_t2_B07BQVT22F?th=1
   
   Figured might as well slap this over the ram
   
   https://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Vengeance-Airflow-Cooling-CMYAF/dp/B00GU9UG9A/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1526987839&sr=1-3&keywords=ram+cooler
   
   So that leaves me with the final obvious issue of many, odds are a cpu cooler that big won't fit next to my 4 dimms so is it fine to have a 240mm radiator exhausting out the front of the case. Idk why I said radiator I mean the entire computer because it's just got about an inch glass space between the mesh and two fans.

i'm getting the np9130 as soon as ivy bridge launches on monday. here's where i'm going with my laptop:

1. going 95% gamut matte type screen because it's not a pc where i can upgrade my monitor whenever the hell i feel like it. i intend on using this laptop for at least 3+ years and $95 isn't that much for a monitor upgrade. WORTH IT. KINDA
   
   
2. they basically use this to calibrate the monitor. it's retarded and not worth it unless you're a photographer and need to get true color representation on your screen. NOT WORTH IT.
   
   
3. i'm going for the lowest tier i7 just because i want a quad core. i run a lot of photoshop for web design stuff. idk what you're personally gonna need, but i5s are perfectly fine too unless you're really gonna be stressing out your computer. WORTH IT. KINDA.
   
   
4. if you're techy at all just get a tube of this paste from amazon: link and apply it yourself. i'm getting a larger tube just because i'm gonna upgrade my PC CPU cooler and need a new thermal paste. but if you're not tech savy at all, you should go for it. WORTH IT
   
   
5. isn't the 650M the only choice for you if you got with np6165? the main reason i'm going for the np9130 is because the user has the ability to upgrade graphics cards in the future. in the 6165, you have no access to the actual graphics card and cannot remove it yourself. so just be forewarned. NOT APPLICABLE
   
   
6. 8GB of RAM is fine. 750 GB hard drive is fine too. just depends on your personal preference. if you can afford more hard drive space, you should always get more. just upgrade hard drive space as much as you can without breaking your budget. WORTH IT.
   
   
7. get an SSD. boot times, program load times and all that other crap is SOOOO much faster. seriously. when you pop a squat on campus (or at work. or whatever) and flip open your laptop, it's nice to get your programs up and running in an instant. whereas waiting for 10 seconds for your hard drive to catch up as you're waking up from sleep mode is kind of annoying after doing it a few times. i'm not ordering my SSD from xoticpc/malibal/powernotebook/whatever. i'm just gonna get my own SSD from amazon/newegg/tigerdirect/etc because they always have better prices. i heard samsung SSDs and m4 crucials are the best price/performance at the moment. i'm gonna get a 128GB SSD. it's more than enough to hold all your boot files as well as your programs with a little bit of extra space to use for intel SRT (smart response technology) WORTH IT. DEFINITELY WORTH IT.
   
   
8. pirate it. so easy. NOT WORTH IT.
   
   
9. if you can't do it yourself, then you probably don't care enough about hardcore performance to want the overclocking. regardless, the excess heat (esp in ivy bridge) will reduce lifespan of core components for laptops. NOT WORTH IT.
   
   sorry for the brick of text. i thought it'd be better to be too long and thorough than to be too short and vague.
   
   tl;dr look at the WORTH ITs and NOT WORTH ITs at the end of each brick.
   

Hah, yeah I hate the looks of Noctua products, but they work really well. This is the one I use on the 3600 and it works really well (I run at 4.2Ghz).

The 5700xt is a good card and will be able to do 1440p well, the only reason I recommend Nvidia for GPU is that the 5700 has a lot of driver issues right now and AMD is notoriously slow to correct them. If you can be patient with it until they've smoothed it all over, it's a solid choice.

As for Sabrent, they're really popular here and for good reason. TLC NAND and really good read/write speeds. The read/write speeds on the crucial drive you listed are pretty slow, if you'd rather stick with a big name there's the Samsung Evo 970 series which are a little pricier than the Sabrent, but a lot faster than the crucial. Here's a link comparing the two, and the sabrent is just slightly slower than the 970.

Thanks for your input, I haven't decided on Intel or AMD, I think i'm either going to go with the i7 8700k or R7 2700x. The SSD was recommended by another Reddit user, this is what they said:

> The Inland SSD is a super affordable, super quality choice. It's not 860 Evo, but it gets the job done incredibly well for its price. And the P300 HDD is great. Barracudas tend to be pretty noisy under load. Toshiba's P300 drives are rebranded Hitachi drives, so you're getting the best on the market.

They also recommended the following coolers:

> Macho Rev. B or the H5 Universal.

Logical increments suggests the following:

Noctua NH-U12S

Noctua NH-U14S

be quiet! BK021 Dark Rock 4 CPU Cooler Fan Extremely High Cooling Performance 135mm (200W TDP)

Do you have any suggestions?

​

​

Just a side note, but you gotta reply to my message or else I'm not notified of it.

For 144hz+ gameplay, you're probably going to want a better graphics card unless you're playing on lower settings, or doing Esports titles. I'd suggest a few things here-

1. The CPU cooler you have is great, but it's largely a waste of money unless you are intent on overclocking this to the absolute maximum. I'd suggest something like this, which will deliver excellent cooling capacity https://www.amazon.com/Mugen-Rev-CPU-Cooler-Support/dp/B06ZYB8K77
   
   
2. You will likely want even faster RAM, as this is important for eking out the most frames at 144hz+ 3600, preferably low CAS memory is desired.
   
   
3. I suggest compiling a list of your games and checking out some benchmarks. Places like Hardware Unboxed have done benchmarks comparing things like the 5700XT to the 2060S in huge 30+ game comparisons. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oej2ev3g-sM
   
   
4. If those benchmarks listed above demonstrate that you will NOT be able to hit the framerates you desire, you're going to need to shave more off the build in order to step up to a 2080S or something, unless you opt for a used 1080ti or something. A cheaper SSD wouldn't hurt gaming performance in the slightest per example, or a cheaper motherboard, etc. If you have a student ID or something you can also get Windows 10 at a discount.

I just woke up when I posted that and didn't know it was you and thought you meant literal case fans. Those would be way way overkill because they are meant for pushing the most air while being silent and you'd really spend that much maybe to throw on your radiator, full size case, HTPC, have $$$ etc..

With my hardware hoarding I was going to send you about 6 of the same 80mm fans if you wanted but they were gone when I gave away 2 cases I guess but I tested a 60mm from God knows when and now I remember why 60 to 80 was a big leap because those things give off that annoying high pitch and don't blow any air.

My 80mm fans were these which were great: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835103025

For best noise to airflow I think these might be the best: https://www.amazon.com/Enermax-Case-Fan-Cooling-UC-8EB/dp/B000XBF466

I can do research if you need for fans if that is your setup with many variables. You said 30Q over the VTC5 because of the heat even though it performed better but who knows with those little fans not covering a lot of area that one was slanted just a little bit or wearing out and threw it all off. +

Edit: https://www.amazon.com/Rosewill-Sleeve-Computer-Cooling-ROCF-13001/dp/B00KB8CB9O/ref=pd_lpo_147_bs_t_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=ZJYDM15BAKPX2G29JKQ1 = Just saw 4x 120mm fans 38CFM for $15 which is a great deal.

The VelociRaptor is overpriced and underperforms. Current 7200RPM HDDs are a fraction of the price and have just as high and sometimes higher read/write speeds. The only thing the VelociRaptor is really good at is seek times. You're better off spending $100 on a nice 1TB HDD and another $80-120 on a 128GB SSD like the Plextor M3P, Plextor M3, Plextor M5P, Samsung 830, Crucial M4, or Intel 520.

The 7950 outperforms the GTX 660 Ti at the same price. It competes with, and, according to HardOCP, beats the GTX 670.

I'd recommend the Cooler Master Storm Quick Fire Pro over the Razer. It has better build quality and is cheaper. The only potential drawback is that it's a tenkeyless board.

Arctic Silver is a waste of money. Modern TIMs and the TIM that comes with any modern heatsink will perform just as well. In addition, they won't be electrically capacitive and have little to no curing time. AS5 has a 200 hour cure time. If you want a TIM, look at Phobya HeGrease, Prolimatech PK-1, or Innovation Cooling Diamond 7. They're the best on the market and perform several C better than AS5.

The Zalman ball cooler is overpriced and underperforms. It was great back when it was first introduced, but it's nothing special now. That and it usually requires a blood sacrifice. Look at the Xigmatek Gaia, Enermax ETS-T40 T.B. Silence, Cooler Master Hyper 212 Plus, or Cooler Master Hyper 212 Evo instead. They all perform better. If you want the best, look at the Phanteks TC14PE, Thermalright Silver Arrow or Silver Arrow SB-E, and Noctua NH-D14.

Lastly, for gaming, there's no reason to go with an i7 over an i5. They perform pretty much the same, with the i7 doing a hair better in some games because of the marginally bigger L3 cache, and with the i5 doing better in others since hyperthreading can sometimes hurt performance.

• The Ryzen 5 1600 comes with a good stock cooler, and if you don't plan on overclocking, it is plenty and fairly quiet, so you don't really need a separate cooler.
  
• That thermal compound is very expensive. I recommend something like [this] (https://www.amazon.com/Arctic-Silver-AS5-3-5G-Thermal-Paste/dp/B0087X728K/ref=pd_sbs_147_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B0087X728K&pd_rd_r=09ZJJJB5G87K5NHK8R7B&pd_rd_w=lUWjv&pd_rd_wg=9vejx&psc=1&refRID=09ZJJJB5G87K5NHK8R7B) if possible, even if you have to go to USA to buy it. It's highly rated, and I use it and have no problems.
  
• You probably don't need an X370 board. Consider a B350 board, which are generally cheaper and will probably offer everything you need. B350s also allow for overclocking, if you are into that, so you can always do that down the line.
  
• You really don't need an 850w PSU. A 650W will be plenty and will last through an upgrade or two, as long as you aren't planning on doing SLI. You could even go down to like 550W, but the 650W gives more headroom for upgrades later on.
  
• With all these changes you might be able to afford another level up on graphics cards, especially with VEGA release soon. I would probably wait until their release to make your final purchase, especially considering that GPU prices are high right now. You could probably fit a 1070 in there, if the prices go back to normal. And, assuming you are playing the listed games at 1080p, the 1070 will crush them.
  

• I don't know if you already have a HD, but if you don't, consider getting one. If you get a smaller one like 240GB and a 1 or 2 TB hard disk, then you will probably save money and end up with a lot more space. A 525GB won't last too long if you download a lot of games/bigger programs. Then again, you can always buy more storage down the line.
  

  
  

  EDIT: Here is an alternative build:
  

  
  

  PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
  

  
  

  Type|Item|Price
  

  ----|:----|:----
  CPU | AMD - Ryzen 5 1600 3.2GHz 6-Core Processor | $266.50 @ shopRBC
  Thermal Compound | Arctic Silver - 5 High-Density Polysynthetic Silver 3.5g Thermal Paste | $6.10 @ DirectCanada
  Motherboard | MSI - B350 TOMAHAWK ATX AM4 Motherboard | $134.99 @ Newegg Canada
  Memory | G.Skill - Ripjaws V Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory | $174.99 @ Newegg Canada
  Storage | SanDisk - SSD PLUS 240GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | $115.95 @ Vuugo
  Storage | Seagate - BarraCuda 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $54.95 @ shopRBC
  Video Card | Gigabyte - GeForce GTX 1070 8GB G1 Gaming Video Card | $502.00
  Case | NZXT - S340 (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case | $89.50 @ Vuugo
  Power Supply | EVGA - SuperNOVA G3 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply | $124.99 @ Newegg Canada
  | Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
  | Total | $1469.97
  | Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-08-02 14:29 EDT-0400 |
  
  A few notes:
  
  

• I chose a cheaper case, but feel free to pick the one you like the most. It's a more personal decision.
  
• Similarly, this is the memory option that I prefer as its cheaper, larger, and you will still have room on the SSD for the OS and daily use programs. You can choose what you like and always buy more storage down the line if you want.
  
• I set the price of the 1070 to ~500, as that is the standard price of this one, but you probably won't be able to find one at this price. Either wait for prices to decrease or VEGA to release.

Professional PC builder/technician here. I monitor the market's prices all day, every day.

If you want a temporary and affordable upgrade, your motherboard is running on the AM2 socket. Check your motherboard's model number (Usually in between the PCI slots) and look up CPU compatibility. Assuming you're not running some crappy E-Machine, your socket shouldn't be integrated, and you can pick up something like an AMD Athlon X4 and have a significant boost in power.

If you're looking to fully upgrade, pick up an LGA1150 motherboard. If you want quality and don't want to completely break your bank, go with MSI. They're an awesome mix between affordability and features. For a processor, most i3s on that socket are pretty damn powerful, and cheap. 120 bucks will buy you enough power to do -anything- that 450 you have there will need. If you want long-term, pick up an i5, about 220 bucks will take you miles away from the CPU you have now. The i7 is endgame, it's worth it if you can afford it, but not necessary by any means.

Do not waste your time picking up any motherboard older than an LGA1150. They're the same price as the older LGA1155s, unless you're buying used. Don't buy used mobos, more often than not you'll regret it.

The last thing to consider is your power supply. You're making a serious upgrade with a new processor and mobo, and you need to take power into consideration. Since you seen new to this, Let's make it simple. Google "Power Supply Wattage Calculator" and type in your specs. Go 150 watts above that, spend a lot of money on it and get something nice. Your PSU is your computer's heatbeat, you don't want it failing and killing everything else you have. Buy a nice one the first time, and it will last years and years. Try and save 25 bucks by going off-brand and lower watt, suffer possible thousands of dollars in damage depending on what you have in there.

Edit: I forgot to mention, You're going to be stepping up from DDR2 to DDR3 ram. Don't go too crazy on ram, it's all pretty similar on the base levels. Corsair makes some nice sticks, Patriot does fine and affordable but you really need to look up compatibility with it, and Crucial makes some nice stuff that's affordable. If I were to build a low level affordable PC today, my baseline would sit here:

CPU: http://www.amazon.com/Intel-i3-4130-FCLGA-Processor-BX80646I34130/dp/B00EUUKVXM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1397850929&sr=8-1&keywords=i3

Mobo: http://www.amazon.com/MSI-Motherboard-Motherboards-B85-G41-MATE/dp/B00D12OASW/ref=sr_1_2?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1397851005&sr=1-2&keywords=lga1150

RAM: http://www.amazon.com/Kingston-Technology-1333MHz-KHX1333C9D3B1K2-8G/dp/B004DDI0IE/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1397851050&sr=1-1&keywords=DDR3+RAM

PSU: http://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Builder-Bronze-Certified-Supply/dp/B008RJZQSW/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1397851110&sr=1-2&keywords=power+supply

For the sake of maintaining a cheap build, you can use the heatsink that comes with the processor. If you're feeling moderately fancy, just grab something cheap like this, they work great.
http://www.amazon.com/Cooler-Master-Contact-Heatpipes-RR-T4-18PK-R1/dp/B00BSKY1M4/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1397851211&sr=1-1&keywords=LGA+1150+heatsink

Re-use the optical drive from your old PC, re-use the fans. If you need cables, use monoprice.com

For 40$ more you can get 5 RGB fans from amazon

Also the SSD is a bit slower than the usually recommended Crucial MX500 but still fine for gaming and storage needs. Anyway here is the build:

PCPartPicker Part List

Type|Item|Price

----|:----|:----
CPU | AMD Ryzen 5 2600 3.4 GHz 6-Core Processor | $129.30 @ Amazon
Motherboard | ASRock B450M Pro4-F Micro ATX AM4 Motherboard | $71.00 @ Amazon
Memory | Corsair Vengeance LPX 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3000 Memory | $64.99 @ Best Buy
Storage | Crucial BX500 480 GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | $54.95 @ Amazon
Video Card | ASRock Radeon RX 580 8 GB Phantom Gaming X Video Card | $179.99 @ Newegg Business
Case | Cougar MX330 ATX Mid Tower Case | $44.99 @ Amazon
Power Supply | Cooler Master MWE Gold 550 W 80+ Gold Certified ATX Power Supply | $64.99 @ Amazon
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total | $610.21
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2019-09-03 04:15 EDT-0400 |

Alternatively, add the MX500 SSD, this could work too with all the RGB fans for airflow but this case has no PSU shroud and the PSU is non modular so you will need to do a decent cable management job:

PCPartPicker Part List

Type|Item|Price

----|:----|:----
CPU | AMD Ryzen 5 2600 3.4 GHz 6-Core Processor | $129.30 @ Amazon
Motherboard | ASRock B450M Pro4-F Micro ATX AM4 Motherboard | $71.00 @ Amazon
Memory | Corsair Vengeance LPX 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3000 Memory | $64.99 @ Best Buy
Storage | Crucial MX500 500 GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | $64.99 @ Adorama
Video Card | ASRock Radeon RX 580 8 GB Phantom Gaming X Video Card | $179.99 @ Newegg Business
Case | HEC HX210 MicroATX Mini Tower Case | $29.99 @ Newegg Business
Power Supply | Cooler Master MWE Gold 550 W 80+ Gold Certified ATX Power Supply | $64.99 @ Amazon
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total | $605.25
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2019-09-03 04:18 EDT-0400 |

For my install i used the following:

https://www.amazon.com/NZXT-Technologies-Bracket-Cooling-RL-KRG10-W1/dp/B00ITTFNW4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1468265285&sr=8-1&keywords=kraken+g10

Linked the white one but there is black, red and blue for a small increase in price.

https://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Hydro-Quiet-Liquid-Cooler/dp/B009VV56TY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1468265342&sr=8-1&keywords=h55

https://www.amazon.com/Gelid-Solutions-GC-Extreme-Compound-TC-GC-03-/dp/B002P5W4RU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1468265363&sr=8-1&keywords=gelid

Here is the list of compatible water coolers if you want to hunt for a cheaper or different option than the h55:

https://www.nzxt.com/products/kraken-g10-white

The EVGA hybrid option is now available as well:

http://www.evga.com/Products/Product.aspx?pn=400-HY-5188-B1

This option is aesthetically nice and clean but at $120+plus and tax and shipping it's pretty expensive.

I can post pics of mine soon. Install is pretty straight forward, it can feel a bit nerve-racking at times taking a gpu apart but it's not as bad as you would think.

I'm having a similar issue: max freq for the best core of my 3600x is only 4.325Mhz and all other cores are at 4.250Mhz max which is lower than the 4.400Mhz advertised. I tried to activate PBO but it didn't change anything.
Also worth noticing, the Vcore is around 1.437 which seems pretty high. Far more concerning, even with a great case (Silverstone RL06 pro, recommended by Gamers Nexus) and a Noctua NH-D15 SE-AM4 (premium cooler) CPU temperature can reach 55°C (minimum 35°C and ambient temp only 21°C) with just chrome and razer opened and nothing else. When stressing the CPU it stays constant at 70°C.
I hope there will be BIOS updates and AMD chipset updates because right now my conclusion is that this CPU runs hot and can't be overclocked because it has already been factory OC to extreme levels by AMD. I already regret buying a 3600x for sure, I should have bought a 3600 instead.
I wonder if these issues are due to the shit VRMs of my motherboard (msi x570).

pc-kombo recommendation

Type|Item|Price

----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel Core i5-6500 | EUR 219,90 @ Caseking
Motherboard | MSI B150M Bazzoka | EUR 79,90 @ Cyberport
Memory | G.Skill Value 4 (8 GB) | EUR 41,99 @ Atelco
Storage | WD10EZEX Blue (1 TB) | EUR 49,99 @ Amazon.de
SSD | Samsung MZ-75E250B/EU (256 GB) | EUR 75,70 @ Amazon.de
Video Card | Radeon R9 380 | EUR 216,31 @ Amazon.de
Case | Fractal Core 2500 | EUR 59,89 @ Amazon.de
Power Supply | Be quiet! L8-CM (430 W) | EUR 61,89 @ Amazon.de
| Total | €805.57
| Generated by pc-kombo 25.01.2016 |

This is a solid gaming PC with a middle-class gpu, which is more than enough for casual gaming.

I picked AMD here because I prefer the working open source drivers for Linux, but if you are more convinced of Nvidias Driver support a GTX 960 would be the equivalent.

The PC should run cool and quiet with the stock cooler on the processor. If not, it is not that complicated to switch – either to a good budget cooler like an Arctic Freezer 13 or something heavy like the Dark Rock Pro 3. Especially the second is needed only when overclocking (which would depend on another mainboard and psu and is not needed at all).

Are you pushing on the center of the fan where the bearings are to stop the noise? If so, then mounting it on top will give you the same issue if not worse, as the middle part that I assume you're "pushing back into place" would be facing down when exhausting air out the top, so gravity would be working against you. I guess it would still be worth a shot to try it in a different orientation, but I had that issue on one of the NZXT fans that came with my S340 Elite and it needed a replacement.

If you end up needing a replacement I would recommend checking out the Arctic F12/F14 fans if you just want something cheap and don't need dat RGB. They're better than stock Fractal case fans in both airflow and noise, MUCH better than the Coolermaster RGB fans that came on my AIO and if I remember correctly the NZXT fans I had on my S340 Elite were louder than the Fractals.

I was skeptical at first with the low price, but I had used one of the Arctic GPU coolers before and it was top notch, these were no different. There are definitely better performing fans like the Noctua's, but for a rear exhaust fan I don't think it's necessary to splurge. They make quiet, solid fans, and they're pretty much the cheapest out there.

If you do want to get some RGB bling in your case without breaking the bank I would check out the Deepcool RF120's. They cost a little more and noise levels on the Deepcools are close to the F12's, but they do move a little more air, at 56.5CFM vs 53 CFM with the F12's.

Both of these fans can be bought in packs with 4-pin fan splitters/hubs, and have a noise profile that doesn't "stand out" which is the most important thing IMO. Moving air is always going to make some noise but what you want to avoid is fans that have a strange pitch or a distinct buzzing, clicking, whirring etc that stands out.

The Corsair LL fans are great fans, but certainly at a premium. The three-pack for $100 is actually a very good price for these fans that have LEDs both in the inner and outer ring. Only thing to keep in mind is that you'll be buying into the Corsair eco-system and having to use their provided RGB controller.

If you just want a basic RGB fan that plugs into your motherboard and are quiet - the best deal out there are the 5-Pack of RF120 fans from Deep Cool at Amazon for $45 (no tax). These are 4-pin PWM fans with 6 LEDs around the inner ring and just require a 12V RGB 4-pin port on your motherboard. They even come with 2 fan hubs, if your motherboard doesn't have enough fan headers. https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B07HN199YJ/

I did something similar to what you're trying to do here but instead of such a big fan I bought what are essentially PC case fans and cut two square holes, on the back cover of the TV unit, that were just the right size for each of the fans and used weather foam sealing/stripping around the openings where the fans will rest on to help dampen the noise from the vibration. I made sure to have the fans blow the air OUT of the enclosure and put silicone furniture bumpers on the cabinet door to create a small gap for air to go into the enclosure from the front.

The fan you have in there will be way too loud. The ones I linked come in a pair, are a lot quieter, and only need one power supply so you can either use the USB cable and power adapter that comes with the fan set, or use one of the USB ports from the Xbox One system. I don't yet have an Xbox One to test whether or not the USB ports only power when the system is on or if they're powered on all the time. If the USB ports only power when the system is on, using one of the USB on the Xbox might be the better option because the fans will turn on when the system is powered on. Using the supplied power adapter that comes with the fans requires the fans to be turned on manually.

I hope this helps.

P.S. For the love of everything that is holy, please DO NOT have the air blow into the enclosure, you will give your Xbox One an early death.

Ok, if you don't feel comfortable doing the work, then having someone else do it is best. However, it generally isn't that hard if you take your time.

I use a Craftsman small screwdriver set like that one, and have for years. Yes, there are cheaper tools. But I happen to like these.

There is a guide on how to tear into your machine, available right here.

It will take you step by step what you need to take apart. Click on the Prerequisites for section "removing heat sink assembly." It will show you what all has to be torn down to get to that part, and remove it.

Then, clean the old paste off with a lint free cloth, and decent rubbing alcohol. I avoid 70% at all costs. I prefer my 99.9% stuff, but have used 80% when in a bind. Make sure it dries completely before you continue. Pure stuff dries very quickly, less pure can take some time.

Then apply the new paste as a thin line about the length of a grain of rice. Don't smear it, try to spread it, or anything else UNLESS it is specifically designed for that (liquid metals come to mind). Then, reassemble. Be careful to ensure the heat spreader is attached evenly, with appropriate pressure.

Undervolting allows you to reduce the heat of the chip by running at voltages lower than it was designed for. Ideally, this shouldn't have to be done. Assuming a decent paste job, you won't. If you do find yourself in the position where that needs done, then use Intel XTU to adjust the voltage in small increments, and run Prime 95 in the background to monitor the results. If the machine becomes unstable, or starts throttling, you went too far.

What you need:
Screw drivers

Lint free cloth (some people use coffee filters, or even paper towels)

Alcohol

Paste (I use IC7 Diamond these days. Works very well on my machines. Arctic Silver 5 is still decent stuff, as is Gelid Extreme. There are others, and I am sure someone else will chime in with their favorites)

Clean, static reducing/non static working environment

Christ on a bike, buy a cheaper CPU cooler. Something like a Scythe Mugen 5 is almost half the price and probably performs the same.

I'd consider swapping the 1070ti for a (not reference) Vega 56. They're pretty much identical in performance and price, so the main benefit is not being locked into pricey Gsync monitors and Nvidia drivers.

Also, make sure the 450W PSU is enough for the system. It seems low, but hardware has gotten really power efficient!

Edit:

Another area to save a lot on is the motherboard. I'm not sure what you're planning on doing, but if it's gaming all you need is a b-450 motherboard. Consider an MATX form factor if you aren't going to use all the extra slots afforded by pricier ATX sized boards. This MSI MATX board for example.

You could save even more by buying an older b-350 or x370 board and making sure the bios are updated to support your 2000 series ryzen processor.

Thermalright True Spirit 140 or the Cryorig H5 are a little more expensive than the H7 - but at least they are in stock. the TS140 is a great cooler, and performs almost on par with the Noctua D15 which is considered top of the line for air cooling. If you don't want to spend that much money, a good ol' Hyer 212 will be OK. If you intend to get a decent overclock on that 6700k, I would definitely recommend spending a bit more on one of the options I mentioned.

I bought the cooler, because I found a stable 4.0ghz OC on my 1600, but the temps just weren't what I wanted, so I toned it back to 3.8. Also, a friend of mine has a 1800x he said he'll sell to me for a very good price when the new gen comes out.

I was able to get my RAM to 2933 with good timings (suppose I was lucky there), plus I got both for only $150 with sales.

As for the 1070, that's something I'm wanting. I want to sell my 1060 while prices are still a bit up, and get the 1070 when the new gen comes out, but then I'd just be left with a PC that can't do anything until then...

I also have this paste that I never used- https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0087X728K/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Edit: I also didn't want to go fan cooler, because I am a bit of an aesthetics person, which yes, does hurt the wallet a bit, but it's so satisfying to me when I see something that I really wanted, and looks just how I'd like it to. It makes it worth it for me.

I know 280x and 290's fairly well, but you have a lot of cards that I haven't personally worked with. That aside, the process is pretty much the same, it's just the settings that will differ. You should research the right voltages (out of the box and what others have used as undervolt) and then run through that process. There are a TON of resources for you to pick from... Here is a great series which lead to a ton more links on undervolting cards as well as the semi-official scrypt mining hardware comparison. Just find your specific hardware and try out some settings.


How to undervolt a card (in general, the process is the same, your settings will vary per card) (requires making a DOS bootable drive to run ATIFlash)


http://rumorscity.com/2013/12/09/how-to-modify-video-bios-to-undervolt-gpu-in-linux/


How to make a DOS bootable drive:


http://rumorscity.com/2013/12/04/how-to-create-a-dos-bootable-usb-drive/


Hardware comparison:


https://litecoin.info/Mining_Hardware_Comparison


Download VBE7


http://www.techpowerup.com/forums/threads/vbe7-vbios-editor-for-radeon-hd-7000-series-cards.189089/


Also to cool off your cards, buy some Arctic Silver or Icy Diamond and replace the stock paste on your GPU with some quality thermal paste.


http://www.amazon.com/Innovation-Cooling-Diamond-Thermal-Compound/dp/B0042IEVD8

OR


http://www.amazon.com/Arctic-Silver-Thermal-Compound-Grams/dp/B000OGX5AM/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1394905207&sr=1-1&keywords=arctic+silver


Hope this helps!

it's the same basic process, but with a few key differences. the biggest difference is getting access to your work area. i'm not sure how hard it is to do on that model, but you'd want to consult a teardown guide. some laptops are easier to get at than others.

another thing to keep in mind is that laptop temps can get pretty high, so you might want a thicker paste. i had good luck with this stuff. also the other big difference, depending on the cooling system in that laptop, you may be doing both the CPU and GPU at the same time. some laptops use a dual fan solution that runs separate heat pipes, one for the CPU, and one for the GPU.

i bet it's not a real hard job to do on that laptop. be delicate, you're dealing with smaller more fragile parts, in terms of screws and mounts. do it all by hand, no power tools of any kind.

Noctua has a good reputation for having some of the best performing fans though they are a bit pricey maybe because of the demand for them if spending $20 or more per case fan is too much going for cheaper fan's wouldn't be the worse idea as replacing a fan is easier these fan's are pretty cheap and it comes with 3 of them Noctua also has some of the best CPU Coolers

Here's a couple of CPU coolers if they cost too much there's a couple others I can think of

Noctua NH-D15 one of the best coolers by noctua the FSP case may have trouble mounting this.

Noctua NH-U14S a more budget cooler but still capable might be a bit louder then the D15 the FSP case may have trouble mounting this

Dark Rock Pro 4 one of the most recommended CPU coolers I've seen at the moment probably because of it's price for a dual heat sink tower cooler the FSP case may have trouble mounting this

​

Corsair H115i a very high end Liquid cooler it's expensive but it'll definitely get the job done might have better overclocking performance as AIO cooler's don't suffer from stark changes in temperatures with an air cooler you may see temperature spikes for example your CPU is sitting at 40 C and it jumps up to 50 C for a second and then quickly climbs back down this is pretty rare for an AIO Liquid cooler

with all the clearance issue's with the FSP case you could look into this case it would be wide enough to fit all cooler's I mentioned here while also not being too expensive

I have only tried sewing machine oil, and it didn't help. The bearing looks pretty ratchet though, so I wasn't surprised. I pick up a more heavy duty lubricant next time I'm at a hardware store, but only for curiosity's sake.

However, I also noticed that on that Xbox, the GPU Fan header is not throttled at all. It's blasting 100% all the time. I don't know if that's normal or if it's the underlying issue.

I happened to have a 40mm fan left over from some previous project, and that sits in the heat sink just perfectly. Same problem remains though... a fan flush with the sink blasting 100% is pretty loud. So I ordered a 3-pin y splitter and ran both fans off of the CPU fan header. I set XBMC to use the auto-cooling setting, and so far it's working pretty well. The fan's aren't any louder than the HDD, so I'm happy with it.

I don't play games or anything, so the GPU really outpacing the CPU seems unlikely, but of course I'll keep an eye on it for a while.

​

​

The Phanteks luxe is solid. Built in space for 6 hdd. There are fan mounts in front of the cages, as well as behind. It also has 3 5.25 bays up top that can be used for hdd. I'd recommend either of the following. They both have fans and filters.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0032UUGF4/ref=aw_wl_ov_dp_1_11?colid=1R50JI9CCOVOT&coliid=I177JLQNQCPEN8

2 Bay to 3 hdd with a 80 mm fan. That said it's a tight squeeze for 3 hdd if you wanted to go that far. If you go with two hdd it would have plenty of space.

Or for future potential, this one.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00GSQMYY0/ref=ox_sc_saved_image_7?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A1W7VJMCZRZBUQ

That's a 3 bay to 4 hdd with hot swap and a 120mm fan. Also has converters to put in and if you wanted.

Lastly, the case also has built in space for two ssd.

Cherry on the Sunday is, IMO, it's a gorgeous case with a lot of Modular setup and is great for air cool, but also setup for water if you ever go that route.

Right now, ending tonight, on ebay is one at a current total bid with shipping of around $60. But it also has a nice stack of extra fans with it.
Just search Phanteks luxe.
Good luck.

Hi!

Sorry to hear that. You are talking about the parts fan, yes?

Which Fang are you using (Thingiverse link?) Picture?

The original is probably a 40x10mm (that's 40mm square, 10mm thick).

Here's the one I recommend (a bit pricey but one of the best out there and quiet as heck, and a SIX year warranty so it's not some Chinese cr@p)

https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-Cooling-Bearing-NF-A4X10-FLX-5V/dp/B00NEMGCIA

or you can upgrade (if it fits, you'll have to measure) to this:

https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-NF-A4x20-FLX-premium-quality-quiet/dp/B072JK9GX6

That one is 20mm thick but moves more air, usually what you want in a Fang.

One other thought - How did it fry? C'mon, fess up, we all screw the pooch sometimes... :-)

It's a right of passage to put a hex wrench into a fan and snap the blades, you know, LOL.

PuterPro

2200 build list
CPU- http://www.amazon.com/Intel-Boxed-I7-6700K-Processor-BX80662I76700K/dp/B012M8LXQW/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1458134248&sr=1-1&keywords=i7+6700k
Price- $410

\Motherboard- http://www.amazon.com/MAXIMUS-VIII-HERO-ALPHA-Motherboards/dp/B017RI8UYA/ref=sr_1_19?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1458134314&sr=1-19&keywords=lga+1151+motherboard
Price- $300

PSU- http://www.amazon.com/EVGA-SuperNOVA-Modular-Warranty-120-G1-0750-XR/dp/B00K85X2A2/ref=sr_1_4?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1458138651&sr=1-4&keywords=Psu&refinements=p_85%3A2470955011
Price- $90

GPU- http://www.amazon.com/EVGA-GeForce-Cooling-Graphics-06G-P4-1996-KR/dp/B00Z0UX8TA/ref=sr_1_5?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1458138400&sr=1-5&keywords=gtx+980+ti
Price- $700

250 GB SSD- http://www.amazon.com/Samsung-2-5-Inch-Internal-MZ-75E250B-AM/dp/B00OAJ412U/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1458138522&sr=1-1&keywords=SSd
Price- $90

500gb M.2 SSd- http://www.amazon.com/Samsung-850-EVO-3-5-Inch-MZ-N5E500BW/dp/B00TGIW1XG/ref=sr_1_5?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1458138908&sr=1-5&keywords=m.2+ssd
Price- $160

You can use either option they are both good but the M.2 is my recomendation

RAM- http://www.amazon.com/G-SKILL-TridentZ-PC4-24000-Platform-F4-3000C15D-16GTZ/dp/B017QI1V74/ref=sr_1_9?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1458138836&sr=1-9&keywords=ddr4+3000
Price- $120

CPU Cooler- http://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Hydro-Liquid-Cooler-CW-9060010-WW/dp/B009VV56TY/ref=sr_1_8?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1458138978&sr=1-8&keywords=cpu+cooler
Price- $110

3 TB HDD- http://www.amazon.com/Seagate-Desktop-3-5-Inch-Internal-ST1000DM003/dp/B005T3GRNW/ref=sr_1_2?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1458139072&sr=1-2&keywords=hdd
Price- $90

My favorite gaming keyboard but its up to you. It doesn’t have any fancy side buttons just a great feel and excellent build quality- http://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Vengeance-Mechanical-Gaming-Keyboard/dp/B00CD1FC6G
Price- $150

total $2130 without the case or windows or optical drive

let me know where it is you would like to go fro here? Is there anything you want to add or take out we can revise this build a couple of times

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

Type|Item|Price

----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel Core i7-7700K 4.2GHz Quad-Core Processor | $329.99 @ Amazon
CPU Cooler | NZXT Kraken X62 Liquid CPU Cooler | $158.99 @ SuperBiiz
Motherboard | MSI Z270 SLI PLUS ATX LGA1151 Motherboard | $129.89 @ OutletPC
Memory | G.Skill TridentZ Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3200 Memory | $179.99 @ Newegg
Storage | Samsung 960 Evo 250GB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive | $127.98 @ NCIX US
Storage | Crucial MX300 1.1TB 2.5" Solid State Drive | $272.88 @ OutletPC
Video Card | Asus GeForce GTX 1080 Ti 11GB STRIX GAMING Video Card |-
Case | Phanteks Enthoo Evolv ATX Glass ATX Mid Tower Case | $189.99 @ Amazon
Power Supply | EVGA SuperNOVA G3 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply | $88.89 @ OutletPC
Operating System | Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit | $88.58 @ OutletPC
Case Fan | Cooler Master MasterFan Pro 140 Air Pressure 82.2 CFM 140mm Fan | $13.99 @ NCIX US
Case Fan | Cooler Master MasterFan Pro 140 Air Pressure 82.2 CFM 140mm Fan | $13.99 @ NCIX US
Case Fan | Cooler Master MasterFan Pro 140 Air Pressure 82.2 CFM 140mm Fan | $13.99 @ NCIX US
Case Fan | Cooler Master MasterFan Pro 140 Air Pressure 82.2 CFM 140mm Fan | $13.99 @ NCIX US
Case Fan | Cooler Master MasterFan Pro 140 Air Flow 106.0 CFM 140mm Fan | $13.99 @ NCIX US
Case Fan | Cooler Master MasterFan Pro 140 Air Flow 106.0 CFM 140mm Fan | $13.99 @ NCIX US
Case Fan | Cooler Master MasterFan Pro 140 Air Flow 106.0 CFM 140mm Fan | $13.99 @ NCIX US
Monitor | AOC AG271QG 27.0" 2560x1440 165Hz Monitor | $590.98 @ Newegg
Mouse | Logitech G403 Prodigy Wired Optical Mouse | $62.89 @ OutletPC
Headphones | Sennheiser G4ME ONE Black Headset | $158.00 @ Amazon
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total (before mail-in rebates) | $2506.98
| Mail-in rebates | -$30.00
| Total | $2476.98
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-04-20 16:30 EDT-0400 |

- Better SSD config
- Value motherboard
- Low-noise fan config (3x AF for exhausts, 4x SP for push/pull intake)
Add a fan hub like this to control.
- IPS G-Sync monitor

I'd still recommend going for a 6+ core CPU, but with your priorities as stated, the 7700k is a better fit, for now.
GPU could be argued for a Gigabyte Aorus XE or Zotac AMP! Extreme instead, but that's ... meh.

That's baseline, though - some changes for cosmetics are always fine if you're willing to spend the money, so feel free to exchange the motherboard for anything you like better, 'same with fans if you want a specific colour or LEDs.

As mentioned, nothing really wrong with your original design except for the fans.

I installed my TRUE120 Rev C on ASUS PRIME X370-PRO that I put together for my cousin a while ago. Early production Ryzen 7 1700 chips needed a lot more vcore to go above 3.8GHz. I got the 1700 up to 3.9GHz. Clearance around the PRIME X370-PRO was ok but I did have to take a double look. I still have my original TRUE120 installed on my Sabertooth 990FX but don't have the new universal bracket so I can't see how it fits on my X570 AORUS Master or my X370 Professional Gaming (same as Taichi). Which motherboard are you considering ?

Amazon has the universal bracket for $12
https://www.amazon.com/Thermalright-100700553-Optional-Mounting-Installation/dp/B00UN05Q6A/

Amazon also has the TRUE Spirit 140 Power for $50
https://www.amazon.com/Thermalright-True-Spirit-140-Power/dp/B00IYEEOMO/

TRUE Spirit 140 Power has near identical cooling and noise levels to the NH-D14 (the mounting bracket looks to be the same).

Very detail discussion on OCN also Amazon custom feedback.
https://www.overclock.net/forum/246-air-cooling/1477785-thermalright-true-spirit-140-power.html

I wouldn't recommend this route, but if you are going to, definitely buy a much cheaper motherboard than you list in the pcpartpicker, since you'll have to buy a different one for Ryzen. On the other hand, if you can force yourself to wait for a couple weeks you could put all of that money into buying one of the higher end 8/16 cpus and blow the i5 and pentium out of the water.

As for coolers I've heard good things about this one You could also look into a closed loop cooler like the corsair H60, which may be good if Ryzen's XFR turns out to work well.

Edit: Fixed link

Thermaltake Core V1 isn't going to fit in a carry-on bag easily. The Silverstone Sugo SG13B-Q will probably be your best bet there, but you'll need to change to an SFX power supply. I had a Sugo SG05 a few years ago, and it worked well all air cooled (Q9550, Radeon 7870).

edit: yeah, I was wrong about that power supply, the SG05 needed SFX, I should have looked more closely. Still, these are great power supplies :P

The $88 450w Silverstone ST45SF-G, 600W SX600-G or SX550 are all fully modular - I own the 450 and 600, they're both solid performers. Based on what you've got there, I don't think you need more than the 450w power supply. You could pick the 550w if you really want that 390 in there.

I imagine an RX480 would fit in there great. I'd go with that over the GTX 970 or R9 390, simply because it's newer than either, and the 390 in there might be kind of hot. Those OpenGL Doom benchmarks tell a good story for the future. Yes, I have an 8GB RX 480 (which replaced my R9 290) driving my 1440p monitor.

You could keep the stock cooler on there for now, unless you can swing the CRYORIG C7 - it seems to be $30 on amazon right now.

Just a few thoughts I had.

>Hi All,

>Hopefully I'm in the right spot, if not, please point me in the right direction. I'm looking to replace my DS1812+ NAS with my old gaming rig (originally built in 2009). I think it's overkill, but want to make sure I don't need anything extra or am missing something that will stop this.

>This is my current setup (Besides the GPU which is an AMD Radeon HD 5850, but couldn't find that exact model):

>PCPartPicker Part List

This is all fine, but if you want a CPU upgrade you can get a 6C/12T X5670 for around $20 on ebay. Your 930 has about 5100 passmark while the X5670 has about 7850 passmark. No need to add more RAM.

>I will need to buy some 5.25" to 3.5" converters, but the MB has 10 SATA ports, so no issues there, plenty of memory. My plan is to install Xpenology (Unsure if bare metal or ESXi yet) and overall make the system as quiet as possible. I'm pretty sure I have the stock CPU Cooler still installed, so that would be the first thing to go for something better/cooler.

This drive bay converter is cheap and works great. If you're looking to make it as quiet as possible, pick up a 5 pack of Arctic PWM fans and a replacement CPU cooler.

>Any thoughts/comments/tips going forward? Do I need to keep the GPU in there, or can I just remove it from the setup completely (quieter, cooler)?

You can ditch the full size video card for something smaller such as an 8400GS, which should save you a ton of power. You won't need anything but a means of display out.


>Thanks for your help!

>Edits: DS1812+ had its MB fried and I am using the PC as a temporary solution while I sort out my next move. PC is currently running Win10 for work/uni. End goal is to have something that will be able to run Plex stream (some transcoding) at 1080p for 2 devices simultaneously and possibly use it for cloud storage in the future.

Sadly, this is just another notch in the tree of dead Synology units. I personally wouldn't recommend Xpenology, I'd look into unraid first as it's the most versatile, easy to use, and easy to expand storage focused OS.

I have a heat issue. Build specs:

• MSI 970 GAMING ATX AMD Motherboard
  
• Corsair Vengeance Pro 16GB (2x8GB) DDR3 2133 MHz
  
• EVGA GeForce GTX 970 4GB SC GAMING ACX 2.0
  
• AMD FD8350FRHKBOX FX-8350 Processor
  
• Corsair CS Series 750 Watt ATX CS750M
  
• Cooler Master Hyper T2
  
  Idle temperatures were 44° C with the stock cooler so I replaced it with the T2. The case purchased didn't allow a T4 to fit in it - it was about half an inch too high.
  
  With the T2 idle temperatures dropped to 26° C while the cores are running @ 1400 Mhz.
  
  No overclocking has been left in place; it was accidentally enabled for a short period. However, when my son starts playing games he finds himself at 76° C and the thermal protection kicks in, locking the box up.
  
  I made sure to remove the plastic on the bottom of the T2, where contact is made between the cooler pipes and the CPU. I made sure to evenly spread the thermal paste over the chip. I've ensured that the cooler is tightly clamped to the CPU.
  
  Now this board has an "OC Genie" and he did activate it, however, I uninstalled the software overclocker (MSI Command Center) and turned off the OC Genie in the BIOS. I reset the power supply levels to default, as well as anything else I could find in the BIOS. (I don't do overclocking at this point in my life. If I want a 5% boost in speed, I pay for it.)
  
  There are two fans on the case, one on the front and one on the back. The computer is currently in a corner area with little to no ventilation, so that's the next thing we're changing. However, I thought it might be useful to ask for advice from all of you.
  
  Any advice on what I can do to help cool this thing? I know AMDs tend to run much hotter than Intels, but this seems ridiculous. In general I see acceptable ranges of 20° C to 60° C. Would you guys agree that's an acceptable range?
  
  If necessary we can buy a new case and put the T4, or whatever recommended cooler is there, on the PC.
  
  Thanks.
  

That cooler is fine but if you want rgb here is this one DEEPCOOL GAMMAXX GT BK, CPU Air Cooler, SYNC RGB Fan and RGB Black Top Cover, Cable or Motherboard Control Supported, 4 Heatpipes, 120mm RGB Fan, Universal Socket Solution https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074P3JCXX/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_.JvODbWRVSN5K

Also buy thermal paste that comes in a tube syringe thing because the paste that comes with it is in a ketchup like package

I've been looking at LGA 1366 and here's what I came up with:

Processors: 2 x six core Xeon X5650 for a total of 12 cores https://www.ebay.com/itm/Intel-Xeon-X5650-2-66-GHz-Six-Core-SLBV3-AT80614004320AD-Processor-w-Grease/222402472233 -- total price w/ shipping $80

RAM: 2x16GB ECC for a total of 32GB RAM https://www.amazon.com/Timetec-SUPERMICRO-1866MHz-PC3-14900-Registered/dp/B00VVYCS04/ -- total price w/ shipping $225

MOBO: ASUS Z8NA-D6 https://www.aliexpress.com/item/original-motherboard-ASUS-Z8NA-D6-LGA-1366-DDR3-Dual-1366-Server-Board-Desktop-mainboard-Free-shipping/32831393038.html -- total price w/ shipping $140

CPU cooling: 2 x Corsair CW-9060010-WW Hydro Series H55 Quiet Edition Liquid CPU Cooler https://www.amazon.com/Corsair-CW-9060010-WW-Hydro-Liquid-Cooler/dp/B009VV56TY/ -- total price w/ shipping $120

Graphics card: ASUS GeForce GTX 560Ti 1GB bought previously for about $30. Might eventually buy a better graphics card but not right now.

PSU: Corsair HX 650W PSU bought and used for a previous build.

Computer chassis: Fractal Design Define R5 Titanium bought and used for a previous build.

Total cost of components to buy: $565

However, I would also like to overclock the processors to 4 GHz and from what I've read about the only dual socket LGA1366 mobo with overclocking settings in its BIOS is EVGA Classified SR-2 and it's quite an expensive mobo. https://www.ebay.com/itm/EVGA-Classified-SR-2-LGA-1366-Socket-B-Intel-270-WS-W555-A1-BITCOIN-MINING/263522255945. Total price w/ shipping for the SR-2 is $600.

Then the total cost of components to buy would come to $1025. Would the build be worth it with the SR-2 or would I be better off with something else entirely? Also, would the cooling I've listed be sufficient for OCing this build?

On one hand the SR-2 has a lot of room for adding more GPUs in the future -- up to four graphics cards! On the other hand I might end up never getting more than one or two graphics cards anyway.

Quality of paste can make a difference, but any paste should work "good enough" to keep you from overheating. Some paste just get lower temps then others. I was only asking because some paste work better when they are applied in a this lair across the CPU chip. Most paste want the pea-sized dot method though. If you are buying new paste, I personally recommend Noctuna NT-H1. You use the pea sized dot method with this. It spreads easy and gets great temps. Its not metal based either which I am not a fan of.

Now for your problem at hand. You reapplied the cooler and you are able to boot now but you are getting a CPU Fan Speed Error? are your fans on the radiator spinning at all?

There's a few things, first of all Intel K series cpu's don't come with a cooler in the box, so you will need one. A good (but pricey) cpu cooler is the Noctua NH-D15. If you would like something more affordable the Cryorig H7 will work, although the temps will be higher than the former.

Yes, all desktop ram will fit into all desktop motherboards (sodimm or laptop ram will not).

The hard drive you selected doesen't have great reviews, for $8 more you can get a [WD Blue](https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Cache-Desktop-Drive-WD10EZEX/dp/B0088PUEPK

/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1537074431&sr=1-1&keywords=western+digital+-+caviar+blue+1tb+3.5%22+7200rpm+internal+hard+drive) or a Seagate Barracudda, both more reputable.

The cases you linked are good for their price, but you will most likely need 1-2 more case fans as they only come with 1. If you would like some cheap fans these will do, but they wont be as good as something like the Noctua NF-F12

Dont worry about asking questions! It's what we are here for :) I'm sure I missed something, so if you have any other questions make sure to ask!

Edit 1: Do you already have windows? If not make sure to but it, as you wont have an Operation System without it (Unless you want to run linux).

That's certainly one of them!

I prefer one that uses two 40x40x10mm fans so you can get it nice and quiet so something like this:

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2473423

If you do have a single blower fan laying around or on the way feel free to print that one as well! I'm sure it will work just as great just be a bit noisier.

Here is the link to the noctua fan I have two of now:
https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-Cooling-Bearing-NF-A4X10-FLX-5V/dp/B00NEMGCIA/

Let me know if you need more info!

Well your CPU's TDP is 54W, which is quite a bit higher than the 35W usually recommended for passive cooling. You can certainly try it, and you won't break anthing as long as you're monitoring your temperatures closely. If you see them start to climb past 90C under load, it's time to power down and plug that fan back in.

Your CPU will thermal throttle itself at 100C to protect itself from damage, so don't worry about breaking anything.
However, holding your CPU at high temperatures for hours isn't good for it. Aim for 80C or below. If you can't sustain that, you shouldn't passively cool with your current cooler.

>The stock cooler is pretty loud, so I would like to unplug the fan and cool it just with the heatsink.

A better move might be to get an aftermarket heatsink. If you don't need that much cooling, consider a Cryorig C7 or something similar. Using a larger, quieter fan and larger heatsink will get you the best of both worlds, with less noise and lower temps.

Here you go:

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

Type|Item|Price

----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel Pentium G4560 3.5GHz Dual-Core Processor | $77.99 @ PC Canada
CPU Cooler | CRYORIG C7 40.5 CFM CPU Cooler | $40.00
Motherboard | MSI B250I PRO Mini ITX LGA1151 Motherboard | $105.98 @ DirectCanada
Memory | G.Skill Aegis 8GB (1 x 8GB) DDR4-2400 Memory | $69.99 @ Newegg Canada
Storage | ADATA Ultimate SU800 256GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | $95.00
Storage | Seagate Barracuda 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $81.99 @ Newegg Canada
Video Card | Zotac GeForce GTX 1050 Ti 4GB Mini Video Card | $183.99 @ PC Canada
Case | Cooler Master Elite 110 Mini ITX Tower Case | $54.00 @ shopRBC
Power Supply | Corsair CXM 450W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply | $62.98 @ DirectCanada
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total | $771.92
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-04-27 21:08 EDT-0400 |

The SSD can be purchased for $95 from here: http://www.ebay.ca/itm/ADATA-Ultimate-SU800-256GB-3D-NAND-2-5-Inch-SATA-III-Internal-Solid-State-Drive-/172356913276

And the Cryorig C7 for $40 from here: https://www.amazon.ca/Cryorig-Flow-Heatsink-47mm-Mini/dp/B0177GTV9U/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1493341497&sr=8-1&keywords=cryorig+c7

I would upgrade the GPU to something like the RX 470 but it doesn't seem like any fit in this case but there is an RX 570 that does but is $200+ right now. I'm not sure if you'd be willing to spend up to $800 on this but I did put in a 4GB VRAM GTX 1050 Ti. I wouldn't recommend going with cards lower than that amount especially if you wanted some sort of future proofing. You can go with the regular GTX 1050 or RX 460 but they are only really good for e-sports titles that are relatively easy to run (e.g. CS:GO).

If you have any questions, please feel free to ask! :)

If dusting it out entirely didn't solve your problem I highly recommend tearing it down entirely & replacing the thermal compound on the APU. Be mindful of the 16 heat dispersion pads on the memory chips encircling the APU (8 on one side of the main board & 8 below). Get yourself some good thermal compound & use quality solution to fully clean/prepare the surface of the APU. Some people may tell you to get higher end thermal compound than what I've listed below but I'm telling you truthfully, I've tried a bunch (including the higher priced stuff) & this works just as well. Replacing the thermal compound fixed my loud fan issues. I've since done this for several friends & none have experienced further issues.

Cleaner & Purifier

[Microfiber Cleaning Cloth] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B019O1RG9I/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1469112524&sr=8-1&pi=SL75_QL70&keywords=Small+microfiber+cleaning+cloth)

Thermal Compound

Edit: Formatting

The DH15 is arguably the best air cooler on the market, but you may run into compatibility issues based on your case size, RAM height, and distance from your CPU to the first PCI slot. The U14S is a great alternative and isn't nearly as unwieldy. The L-Type is primarily for smaller builds that need to save on space. The U14S will cool better.

The USFF has internal room for a 2.5 drive, and a second one in place of the slim dvd.

The DT holds 1x3.5 and 1x2.5. You can replace the full size dvd with another combo adapter, but there are only three SATA ports on the motherboard, you you’ll want something like a Perc H200/h310.

The MT holds 2x3.5 and 1x2.5 and 2x3.5.
You can easily expand that to 5x3.5 using one of these 3x HDD to 2x 5.25 adapters:
https://www.amazon.com/EverCool-Dual-Drive-Triple-Cooling/dp/B0032UUGF4

Once again, you’ll need a HBA for more SATA ports. You can pretty easily add another 2-3x 3.5 drives on top of the stock 2x if you want to put in some work. Bringing the total 3.5 drives to 8x.

What are you going to be using it for? Unless you are going to be using it as a workstation, I recommend stepping down to a i5 CPU. It's better for gaming and great for all around use.

Also any reason you went with that cooler? It's overpriced and the Hyper 212 will perform well, even with overclocking.

Now you can afford a nice motherboard like this one =]

Lastly, minor cost savings but this PSU is cheaper and more highly rated. Looks like it got restocked finally but I'd order it soon because these go out of stock a lot.

Otherwise looks great =]

Ditch the NH-D15, you can get the same performance out of a Thermalright TS140BW. (The True Spirit 140 BW is a bit hard to find these days, but the True Spirit 140 Power produces the same amount of noise and performs better. It's slightly large though. $55 on Amazon).

Some games see small advantages from high RAM frequencies, but it's very marginal. You could save a bit of money by dropping down to DDR4-2666 or whatever.

You're spending a bit more on the motherboard than you need to. Unless you need features specific to that board, drop down to a more basic Z170 board.

You're going overboard on the PSU. This is a ~400W build, even after overclocking you'd be fine with a 550-650W PSU. The only reason to go for 750W is if you're planning to add a second 1080 at some point.

You probably don't need a 950 Pro. Unless you're doing things that are heavily disk-bound, you will see very little advantage from it. You'll save a few seconds booting and opening programs. Even extrapolated out over the lifetime of the system I don't think that that's worth the premium price, but maybe you disagree.

It's a very nice cooler. You might look into the NH-U12S SE-AM4 for a cheaper option from Noctua. It's a very similar design. Comes with only 1 fan, but includes the mounting hardware and anti-vibration pads for a 2nd fan in the box. I own one of those as well that's in another system, and it's a virtually silent cooler as well.

Also, the Mugen Scythe is an awesome choice as well. https://www.amazon.com/Mugen-Rev-CPU-Cooler-Support/dp/B06ZYB8K77

I have a Z400 with 8 drives internally, 7x3.5 with 1 SSD. I converted the top two drives with an evercool 5.25 to 3.5 converter with fan: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0032UUGF4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

To handle the drive management and not get screwed if raid fails, I use drivepool, which is great, and allows you to view the files on another PC using just basic windows if the mobo craps out, has great tools for duplication and managing drives with SMART errors if you also get the scan software.

​

has been awesome and bulletproof for me, recommend it.

PowerA Charging Station - 2 controllers, not little kid friendly, as it has a spring to load/unload the controller and kids will just pull it off. If the spring is in the incorrect position, it can be difficult to put the controller on charge.

Collective Minds PSVR Stand and Charging Station - 2 controllers, 2 move controllers, and 1 USB slot for headset or PSVR AIM controller.

PlayStation Platinum Headset - Went through 2 PS Gold headsets due to weak plastic frame. Platinums feel more sturdy. Haven't used too much to test durability. Great sound, but I am not an audiophobe.

PSVR AIM Controller - Got it bundled with Firewatch. Read that it felt good in hands. I thought it felt a little awkward, but definitely easy enough to use. Just have to get used to the button layout.

AC Infinity Fans - These are 80mm fans. It comes with 2 fans in parallel that are powered over USB. I don't use my PS4's USBs, because those are taken up with other accessories, so I have it attached to my surround sound receiver. One fan pulling air from the back of the Pro, and the other directing the fan out of the shelf area. I recommend these, as I've noticed the spin up on my Pro has significantly went down.

Here's an album with more pics https://imgur.com/a/v5x6h8m
Components

• 2 Deep hive bodies - Mine are 8frame and juuust fit a 5gal bucket. 10 frame will fit more comfortably
  
• 1 piece of foam insulation for the bottom and some pieces of wood to keep the bucket ~6in above the bottom for air circulation. Carboard for the top.
  
• Temperature Controller $17 - includes a thermometer. I set it at 100F
  
• [2 variable speed PC fans with US Connection] (https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IJ2J2K0) $15 & an old USB charger - For circulating air in the chamber and keeping the temp more consistent throughout. I put one fan blowing on low across the bulb and the other sucking air from the top and sending it down. There are probably cheaper fans too.
  
• Outlet box, Outlet, & outlet Cover - I used a GFCI outlet for a bit of added safety.
  
• Lamp chord & 75w incandescent bulb & piece of tin foil - First I tried a 40w bulb but it wouldnt get the chamber above 90F. Foil is to put between the bulb and bucket to avoid a hot spot on the bucket.
  
• Some romex or old lamp/extension chords to cut up and wire together the controller, outlet box, and lamp
  
• Wood stirring paddle $10 - 5gal of honey is pretty hard to stir. This beast gets the job done
  
  lmk if I can help with the wiring or anything. It's pretty straightforward. Enjoy!

Thank you! I found cable management to be the harder part of building but after a couple tries I think I got everything where I want it! Also the name of the cooler is DeepCool Gmaxx GT, it looks better from the side when you get to see the fan. Amazon Link here for anyone curious!

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074P3JCXX/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I'd say it all depends on your budget and how much extra work you're willing to do. Air coolers require a lot less maintenance and have fewer points of failure, so can be seen as a bit safer. The Dark Rock 4 is a good one, although if you're up in that price range I'd recommend anything from Noctua. Their stuff is bulletproof, the build quality is incredible. The NH-D14 is available for the same price as the Dark Rock 4 (the NH-D15 replaced it at a slightly higher cost, I'd go for that if you want the best of the best) and I think would be your best bet for air cooling.

However if you're really going after overclocking it as far as possible and you want to have more headroom, then out of what you recommended I'd say to go for the H115i if you're good with paying for it.

If you plan on doing any heavy lifting with the Pi4, I'd definitely check out the MicroConnectors RAS-PCS46 as it's the only case I've found that supports 40mm fans straight out of the box. I ordered a Noctua 40x40x10mm fan to go with it, as well as a Noctua 40x40x20mm fan to try out too (want to see how much difference 10mm extra of fan blade height makes). If you order the Noctua fans, make SURE you get the 5V ones and not the 12V ones, unless you don't care about powering it from the Pi directly. I'll post links for them at the bottom of this post.

As for info on cooling, there are some excellent videos on YouTube, with one of th best being the series from Explaining Computers. He gives lots of charts and info, plus try multiple cooling solutions. Also mentioned that he should have the new cooling video done soon, so I'm personally really looking forward to seeing what Chris Barnatt cooked up for the Pi 4.

Have you checked out any reviews of IC Graphite? It was reviewed by Linus Tech Tips, JayzTwoCents, Gamers Nexus as a replacement for thermal paste on traditional PC CPU's, but all found that IC Graphite is a horrible replacement for traditional thermal paste. With a Pi4, you might be able to get away with using it if you have some active cooling going, which is likely the approach I'll be taking (except usng Artic thermal pads as I already have those on hand). I do plan on doing an experiment with my Pi 4's where I use Arctic thermal pads on one, and ArcticSilver 5 thermal paste on another, with both the same heatsink and fan, to compare how well pads stack up to paste for the Pi.



Also I found this insane RPi cooling tower that has a full radiator with copper pipes and everything - it seems a little overkill but is only $20: https://www.seeedstudio.com/ICE-Tower-CPU-Cooling-Fan-for-Raspberry-pi-Support-Pi-4-p-4097.html


MC RAS-PCS46 Amazon link: https://www.amazon.com/Connectors-Stackable-Raspberry-Enclosure-Heatsinks/dp/B07MQXRGZR

Noctua 40mm fans:

40x40x10mm: https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-Cooling-Bearing-NF-A4X10-FLX-5V/dp/B00NEMGCIA/ref=sr_1_7?keywords=noctua+40mm&qid=1562742609&s=electronics&sr=1-7

40x40x20mm: https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-NF-A4x20-5V-3-Pin-Premium/dp/B072Q3CMRW/ref=sr_1_8?keywords=noctua+40mm&qid=1562742609&s=electronics&sr=1-8

Looks like you've got a premium motherboard and CPU held back by a $20 air cooler. If you want to take real advantage of that setup, I'd recommend a 240mm or 280mm closed loop cooler, or one of Noctua's beefier air coolers like this one.

Also, always go for 140mm case fans over 120mm when possible, because the larger ones will operate much more quietly. Your Fractal case looks like it can handle 140s, judging by the spec sheet.

I'd also recommend Ryzen over Intel these days, because of the latter's growing security issues. A 2700X is pretty competitive with an 8700K, and it will also cost less.

I just built a living room PC in the black version of this case, it's everything I hoped it would be.

Fit my micro ATX board with a double fan 1050ti and a Cryorig tower cooler on the CPU. The double chamber design leaves plenty of room for cables in the back, and it can fit up to 3 HDD's and 3 SSD's in the tool free slots.

I'd say the only real downsides are the plastic window(not as clear as tempered glass, has a blueish tint and scratches easily), overall the metal seems kind of thin and bendable, and no real soundproofing. Stock fans(3pin) are loud at full speed, I used a fan controller to run all the fans at around 30%, and they're pretty quiet.

https://www.amazon.com/Phanteks-PWM-Fan-Controller-PH-PWHUB_01/dp/B00M0R05WE

Yay! You're amazing!

I couldn't find any other part number from the official site. This is what I got from Amazon.




Shipping Weight: 1.8 Kg

Item model number: NH-D15 SE-AM4

ASIN: B01NC06ZYT

https://www.amazon.ca/Noctua-NH-D15-SE-AM4-premium-grade-cooler/dp/B01NC06ZYT/

(For the other AM4 ones from Noctua if you want to add them.)

Manufacturer reference: NH-U12S SE-AM4

ASIN: B01N9X2YYN

Item model number: NH-L9x65 SE-AM4

ASIN: B01N27QWFA

Item model number: NM-AM4-UXS

ASIN: B01N5UOPOB

Item model number: NM-AM4

ASIN: B01MTEFT52

Hope that helps!

I want to upgrade my Ryzen 5 2600 stock cooler. My goals are less noise and maybe some overclocking headroom. 3 of my options are:

​

|$24|Gammaxx 400|TDP 125W|RPM 1500|
|:-|:-|:-|:-|
|$36|Cryorig H7|TDP 150W|RPM 1600|
|$47|Scythe Mugen 5 Rev. b|TDP >200W|RPM 1200|

​

The first two are comparable to Hyper 212 Evo, and are good enough to cool the 2600. All 3 have a 120mm fan.

​

Do you think it would be sane to buy the Mugen 5 in order to have a quieter cooler, as well as... a much better cooler overall? Or should I go with the better value for the money?

Definitely get a cheap 3rd party cooler for that CPU my dude. An H7 would do just fine.

Edit: On second thought, Cryorig must be going out of business because the cooler I paid under around $30 is now well over $100. Another great option would be the budget king H212 Evo and step-ups include Noctua's offering or the Scythe Mugen, BeQuiet's, all are great budget coolers.

I got you down $100.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

Type|Item|Price

----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel Core i5-6600K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor | $234.53 @ OutletPC
CPU Cooler | Thermalright TRUE Spirit 140 Direct 73.6 CFM CPU Cooler | $52.90
Motherboard | Gigabyte GA-Z170XP-SLI ATX LGA1151 Motherboard | $102.98 @ Newegg
Memory | GeIL EVO POTENZA 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR4-2133 Memory | $49.99 @ Newegg
Storage | Samsung 850 EVO-Series 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | $97.88 @ OutletPC
Storage | Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $49.33 @ OutletPC
Video Card | Gigabyte GeForce GTX 1070 8GB Windforce OC Video Card | $369.99 @ Newegg
Case | NZXT S340 Elite (White) ATX Mid Tower Case | $89.99 @ SuperBiiz
Power Supply | SeaSonic G 550W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply | $59.99 @ Newegg
Operating System | Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit | $88.58 @ OutletPC
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total (before mail-in rebates) | $1236.16
| Mail-in rebates | -$40.00
| Total | $1196.16
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-02-15 23:08 EST-0500 |

PCPP doesn't show links for that cooler (possibly because there are a couple revisions and a few names for it), but it's damn good and can be found on Amazon.


If you're willing to budge on the case, we're within $60.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

Type|Item|Price

----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel Core i5-6600K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor | $234.53 @ OutletPC
CPU Cooler | Thermalright TRUE Spirit 140 Direct 73.6 CFM CPU Cooler | $52.90
Motherboard | Gigabyte GA-Z170XP-SLI ATX LGA1151 Motherboard | $102.98 @ Newegg
Memory | GeIL EVO POTENZA 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR4-2133 Memory | $49.99 @ Newegg
Storage | Samsung 850 EVO-Series 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | $97.88 @ OutletPC
Storage | Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $49.33 @ OutletPC
Video Card | Gigabyte GeForce GTX 1070 8GB Windforce OC Video Card | $369.99 @ Newegg
Case | Phanteks Enthoo Pro M ATX Mid Tower Case | $54.99 @ Newegg
Power Supply | SeaSonic G 550W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply | $59.99 @ Newegg
Operating System | Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit | $88.58 @ OutletPC
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total (before mail-in rebates) | $1211.16
| Mail-in rebates | -$50.00
| Total | $1161.16
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-02-15 23:11 EST-0500 |

There's another $20 to be had if you go for a shittier SSD and $10 on the HDD. I wouldn't do the former but the latter is no big deal. WD Blues aren't anything to write home about anyway. That gets us real close. You could go to a non-modular PSU, but I wouldn't.

There's no way to drop $200 while keeping all of the expensive bits. The parts you were OK with changing only make up like $450 of the build and a lot of it you can't go much lower than what you have anyway.

I just added this to my tower, it seemed like the best trade off of 2x5.25 bays for 3x3.5 HDDs, has a fan and removable/washable filter. Fitment was perfect, also comes with a bracket for 4x2.5 drives if you wanted. If you need hotswap ability though I'd look at something like what you have, or I thought of buying this one.

It's not free but it also avoids a today legal battle that keeps you from gaming. Throw it on to the legal fees? Anyhow don't be Dr Frankenstein. MANY makers sell aftermarket coolers. The different sellers of 1080s are all just glorified gpu fan makers.

Nzxt does a pretty sick hybrid system. Evga has a solutuon.

I found a soltution from artic that should get you back to gaming in 3-4 days or so if it was just a fan dieing. And it's not too expensive. Link said like $65 ish. Amazon link. Arctic is a super solid brand. Up there with Evga for cs and reliability.

You could also look for someone else's dead card that's like yours. Make sure their 1080 is on the same pcb.

There's also fully custom waterblocks out there....

Don't be Frankenstein.

fuck you imgur - I edited the pictures so they arent sideways, and you make them sideways again!

The PC Part Picker

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

Type|Item|Price

----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel Core i7-4790K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor | $279.99
CPU Cooler | NZXT Kraken X61 106.1 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler | $139.99
Thermal Compound | TUNIQ TX-4 Extreme Performance 1g Thermal Paste | $9.69 @ OutletPC
Motherboard | MSI Z97-G45 Gaming ATX LGA1150 Motherboard | $109.99
Memory | Corsair Dominator Platinum 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-1866 Memory | $175.00
Storage | Samsung 840 Pro Series 256GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | $116.99
Storage | Samsung 840 EVO 500GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | $249.99 @ Amazon
Storage | Seagate Barracuda 3TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $99.99
Video Card | EVGA GeForce GTX 780 3GB Superclocked Video Card | $529.99 @ Amazon
Case | NZXT H440 (White/Black) ATX Mid Tower Case | $99.99
Power Supply | EVGA SuperNOVA NEX 750W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply | $83.98 @ Newegg
Operating System | Microsoft Windows 8.1 Pro (OEM) (64-bit) | $132.98 @ OutletPC
Case Fan | Corsair Air Series AF140 Quiet Edition 67.8 CFM 140mm Fan | $19.99
Case Fan | Corsair Air Series AF140 Quiet Edition 67.8 CFM 140mm Fan | $19.99
Case Fan | Corsair Air Series AF140 Quiet Edition 67.8 CFM 140mm Fan | $19.99
Other| NZXT Grid+| $29.99
| | Total
| Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available | $2118.53
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2014-09-06 17:54 EDT-0400 |


Most of this was purchased at MicroCenter in NJ, but here is the short story behind this.

I recently (like a week ago) got married to a wonderful woman, and started a new job as an Exchange Server "Lead" (e.g: manager) so I decided to treat myself. I originally picked up a fractal design define R4 + the mobo / proc below (it was so damn cheap, I couldn't say no) and this. I was pretty content the first week until I started trying stress tests and actually looking at the idle / stress temps.. and they weren't as wonderful as I would hope due to the amount of noise this machine made..

Originally with Article Silver 5 + the cooler above in the Fractal Design Define R4 I was pushing 30-40C idle, and all the way upwards to 65C during a 10 minute stress test. For the noise I was getting, I was not too happy so I drove back to MicroCenter and picked up a few other things:

- x3 140mm Corsair Air Series Quiet fans
- Kraken x61
- Tuniq TX-4 paste (I read some reviews on it)
- NZXT H440

Ironically at the same the Grid + came in so I was stoked and built this baby out. I was pretty happy with the end results but here are some notes for those who are looking at the H440 from NZXT as there "next case"..

- Utilize the x2 2.5 HDD and 3.5 HDD bay. If you are like me using dual 2.5 SSD, you can the power by using this
- If you give two shits about noise, DONT USE the fan hub! It is NOT power regulated, and will spin all fans at 100%. Grab a Grid +, for the price its actually not that bad (the price below is from NewEgg.com)
- Take all the shelves out, better airflow (that is if you followed my first recommendation, which you probably didn't ಠ_ಠ)
- TAKE YOUR TIME. The back side of this case is narrow as all hell, and there is not much clearance from the back of the motherboard mount to the back panel. I have built out a ton of computers, but this was the trickiest in terms of cable management.

After all this headache - I am now around 50C (that was the max I saw) during the same burnin test as I ran with the "older" hardware.

I am going to use this cooler + case (the fractal design define R4) for my wife's computer, so its not a complete wash.

TL;DR

I upgraded my machine, and could not be happier. Its also quit and cool, which is nice.

edit

A sentence + formatting. Forgot * is used in the formatting

Your GPU is getting hot because you have a blower style cooler. More case fans will only give a marginal improvement.

There is zero reason to ever buy Corsair AF fans as their own SP fans outperform them in every scenario, as do many models from numerous other brands.

A much better use of money would be an aftermarket cooler such as this one:

https://www.amazon.com/ARCTIC-Accelero-Efficient-VRM-Cooling-DCACO-V800001-GBA01/dp/B00HHMJIIO

More case fans aren't a bad idea entirely though, as it will help cool the system as a whole.

https://pcpartpicker.com/product/ZVkD4D/cougar-case-fan-cfv12hp

Two of those, one as a front intake and another as bottom intake will offer the boost cooling improvement.

Built an all air build with this in white and RGB to the gills.

This looks like a model of a modern glass museum when fully decked out. STUNNING case. Very easy to build in, LOTS of room for cable management.

Make sure if you go air cpu cooler that you heed the size restrictions. I didn't and realized too late that the popular DEEPCOOL GAMMAXX GT BK is literally 1 or 2mm too large.

The DEEPCOOL GAMMAXX GT BK has nice RGB, it's easy to install and compatible with MSI Mystic Light. Not a top cooler but it does a pretty good job for its size/price, and it ought to be more than sufficient for your i3. It's 156mm high so make sure it'll fit.

If you plan on gaming with that machine, the best thing to do is sink almost all of your money into a graphics card. That CPU can still hold its weight. Maybe get an nvidia gtx 1070 (<$400) or an AMD rx 480(<$250)(two top of the line cards right now). If you go with the RX 480, then I would suggest spending the rest of your money on an SSD. You can get a 500GB ssd for roughly $150 (https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-850-EVO-2-5-Inch-MZ-75E500B/dp/B00OBRE5UE/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1473798740&sr=1-1&keywords=500gb+ssd). Do this, and you will feel a large performance increase! Also, your processor is overclockable. If I were you , I would get an after market CPU cooler and overclock it to get a little bit more performance out of it. Some like this (https://www.amazon.com/Cooler-Master-Contact-Heatpipes-RR-T4-18PK-R1/dp/B00BSKY1M4/ref=sr_1_2?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1473798818&sr=1-2&keywords=hyper+212+evo)


To recap

Upgrade plan one:

Nvidia GTX 1070 ($400) (More powerful than the rx 480, should run all titles close to MAX)

256gb SSD ($100)



Upgrade Plan two:

RX 480 ($250) (Pretty strong GPU, should run all titles no problem with some settings needing to be turned down)

500gb SSD($150)

Hyper T4 CPU cooler ($40) - only get this if you want to overclock your CPU which you definitely should!

You can definitely stick with the Fractal series. I did because I couldn't have a loud, unsightly machine setup anywhere in my home. I have my main system w/ 10 Drives + 2 SSDs + 3 NVME drives in an R6. That has a DAS connected with 19 drives inside an R5; 8 stock bays + 3 in 2x5.25 bay adapter + extra 3 drive cage + extra 5 drive cage.

As you are in Europe, you might not even have to pay crazy shipping charges to buy spare drive cages from https://www.fractal-design-shop.de/Define-R5_1. In the US I had to source the extra drive cages from r/hardwareswap but that proved to be easier than I expected. Here is a pic I took before I added the 2nd 5-bay drive cage: https://imgur.com/a/TWL8IB1

Edit: Request for more info...

I have not done a build log as I am not yet "finished" with the build, but it looks like there is sufficient demand for parts info so here it goes:

I have an R6 for my main NAS server loaded with the motherboard, 10 3.5 drives and one SSD. The R5 has two extra drive cages (3 + 5) as well a 2x5.25-to-3x3.5 bay adapter.

The expansion cards I use are:

• 1x LSI 9210-8i with SAS to SATA cables for 8 of the 10 internal drives in the R6. The other 2 + SSD use SATA ports on the motherboard.
  
  
• 1x LSI-9207-8e connected via 8088 cables to two HP SAS expanders powered in the R6 by riser cards which connect to the drives with the same SAS to SATA cables as above.
  
  Additional parts I used:
  
  
• An SFX PSU is important so you can fix the extra drive cages. Don't skimp on this one. You don't need a ton of Watts (I'm using a 600W Gold) but you need quality, you are hooking up thousands of dollars of drives to it!
  
  
• Power splitters: One & Two
  
  
• Power switch to turn on the DAS PSU and reset it any time you need to take the NAS offline (DAS always must be powered on first)
  
• Fan controller for powering fans in the DAS
  
  More inspiration can be found here: https://www.serverbuilds.net/16-bay-das

No. I'm pretty sure you've got an issue with a bad fan which is the only part I can think of that could make that sound. Does it come and go as it heats up? It does sound like you will need to replace the fan asap before it dies and in the meantime if you want to use it you have to get a set of auxiliary fans. Heat kills.

Mine makes a smooth fan like sound but also goes into turbo mode when the room is hot especially since it's ceiling mounted which is where heat accumulates so I use these:

Check this out at Amazon.com - AC Infinity MULTIFAN S5, Quiet... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IJ2J2K0?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

To help reduce heat and stress on the fan. They work in unison and keep the average temperature consistent.

At mid speed (there are 3 or 4 different speed settings) you can't hear them over the sound of the pj fan running at normal speed and it completely eliminated the SHHHHHHWOOOOOOFFFSHHHHHHWOOOOF sound of the fan switching speeds for me.

But even back when it would spin up it never sounded different just louder as you would imagine turning up a fan would.

If it wasn't for heat I suspect pjs would last forever so long as the bulbs were constantly in production.

These are just a few I'd recommend, but definitely do your research and see which one is best for your needs.

Thermal Grizzly Kyronaut

IC Diamond 7 Carat

Coollaboratory Liquid Pro

If you registered your product, I believe your GPU comes with a 3 year warranty (otherwise it's 2): https://www.zotac.com/us/page/product-warranty-policy
In Europe this warranty is extended to 5 years with registration iirc.

Would definitely give contacting ZOTAC a shot. Sounds like a faulty fan and they should be able to fix it, it's a real easy fix. At the very least they'd hopefully be able to provide you with spare parts.

If worst case scenario they aren't able to fix it. You could look to Aliexpress or eBay for replacement GPU fans. They're inexpensive, although quality may not be as good as the OEM one. Ex. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Repairist-2Pcs-set-GTX1060-1070-GPU-VGA-Card-Cooler-Fan-for-MAXSUN-GTX1070-GTX-1060-graphics/32837174321.html

Plenty of companies also offer full replacement coolers. Arctic has a lineup of GPU coolers you could mod in yourself: https://www.amazon.com/ARCTIC-Accelero-Efficient-VRM-Cooling-DCACO-V800001-GBA01/dp/B00HHMJIIO?th=1
Much bigger than your mini, but much better cooling, and something you could carry with you into future GPUs (buy a reference/blower model to save some money and use the aftermarket to improve it).

It's not the best performing cooler in the world but it will do an 8700k no problem as long as u have mounting hardware

What is he charging?

Any of these three below will destroy it in cooling performance:

Great: Scythe Mugen 5 Rev.B 120mm Air CPU Cooler, Tower Heatsink with 6 Heatpipes, Quiet PWM Fan, Intel LGA1151, AMD AM4/Ryzen https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06ZYB8K77/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Ua.ODbV70A7RN


Better: Scythe Fuma 2 120mm Air CPU Cooler, Twin Tower Heatsinks with 6 heatpipes, Dual PWM Fans, Intel LGA1151, AMD AM4/Ryzen https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07RFNG89S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_2.-ODbCTFMDNC


Best: Thermalright Le Grand Macho RT (with fan TY-147B) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BCLXO7Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_ka.ODbYSZHAQF

I’ll look into it, thanks.

Edit: looks like the Scythe Mugen 5 rev b is a great cooler. On amazon for $48.

Mugen 5 Rev. B CPU Cooler PWM Fan AMD AM4 Support https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06ZYB8K77/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_YhZ3BbKAV9ZM0

I’ve been through a bunch of reviews and can’t decide which is better so I’m going to try one of each. Reviews for both are solid. No doubt both offer solid cooling and some of the quietest fans out there.

https://www.amazon.com/Mugen-Rev-CPU-Cooler-Support/dp/B06ZYB8K77/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1525054980&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=scythe+mugen+5&dpPl=1&dpID=51q4QErspJL&ref=plSrch

This would be my personal pick. Haven't tried the MasterAir Pro yet- so no comments about it- but since the Evo, CM has never made a worthy air cooler- hence the credibility of their newer models are at stake. Feel free to give a try though, or stick with the safer alternatives; like the Noctua U14, D14, Cryorig H5 Ultimate, R1, Le Grand Macho, Scythe Mugen 5 etc. These are tried and proven by many.

These things were designed to run 24x7 with no additional cooling and I've honestly never even considered this except when orienting the monitor in a way that blocks the vents, like in TATE mode on some monitors. Not to sound like a jerk, but how can you say installing a fan is the best way to preserve a monitor without knowing if anyone has ever done it?
 
That being said, if I wanted to do this, I would probably attach a USB-powered fan or two (like these) to one ventilated side of the case and plug them directly into wall power with a USB power adapter because I don't like the idea of adding additional load to a PVM power supply that wasn't designed for it. Assuming the monitor had vents on top, I'd probably mount it up there using zip-ties through the holes and use it as an exhaust fan to pull warm air out.

Given how cheap thermal paste is and how much of a performance impact it can have, it's a no-brainer to me to buy the best you can get. This is some of the best thermal paste around: https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-NT-H1-Thermal-Compound-Retail/dp/B002CQU14A/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1467311836&sr=8-1&keywords=noctua+nt

It might improve your CPU temps by as much as 5C. That's pretty staggering for a <$10 investment.

I am, yea. I picked up a JBTek Transparent "case" which is really just two transparent acrylic plates with four posts (i.e. no walls) and a fan. (The case didn't come with instructions but the Amazon listing comments had instructions with photos from other customers which was a huge help.) I also got some a uxcell 25mmx25mmx15mm heatsink which I stuck on with Artic Silver thermal paste. Note that I mounted the fan pointing inwards which is the inverse of their photo, because it's better for cooling. (Same reasons you point your CPU's fans to blow in and not out.)

JBTek case: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00M859PA6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
uxcell sinks: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N631K9O/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
artic silver: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0087X728K/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I no longer see the temp warnings. :) Didn't involve any soldering either, which made me happy.

(Sorry for the massive delay; real-life's giving me a beating.)

If you could care less, that means you care : O

Everything looks good, prob would suggest a 480 8gb over the 1060 though. Most people are moving away from the hyper 212, cant remember what they are flocking to now... but do a quick google. Thermal paste seems a bit expensive, https://www.amazon.com/Arctic-Silver-AS5-3-5G-Thermal-Paste/dp/B0087X728K/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1483643670&sr=8-1&keywords=thermal+paste

Yay i save you a few dollars!

ASUS Z170-A ATX DDR4 Motherboards

i5 6600k

[Cryorig C7 CR-C7A]
(https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0177GTV9U/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)

Alright, well can I still overclock it without worrying about it? Well for a few months?

Also what GPU would you recommend for this setup? I was looking into the rx 480 or save more money and buy a more powerful gtx gpu.

Water cool it!

Otherwise, yeah the bigger the fan the quieter. And Noctua makes some pretty quiet fans. Look for the decibel rating of your existing fan to compare. You could also slow the fan.

Of course, how cool does it have to be and how do you know when it is too hot?

75 is acceptable in heavy gaming. It’s nothing to get worried over. If you want to lower the temps I suggest using Trixx from sapphire , msi afterburner or OC Guru II from gigabyte and use one of them to set custom fan curves.
Also what case are you using and how is your airflow. Ideally you would want atleast 2 fans in the front pulling in fresh air and a fan at the rear pushing hot air out and 1 at the top also exhausting hot air if your case allows for that.

If your really limited for fans you could always get a fan that goes into an unused pci slot close to your card and that will also help pull hot air away from the card.

Your other option is to pull your card and replace the thermal paste with a good quality paste such as the 2 I’ve linked to here. here’s an instructional video on how to do that.

And I would recommend

noctua nt-h 1

Or Arctic Silver MX-4

The Wattman message pops up when there’s an issue with either your card crashing or if windows or explorer crash.

If you're not concerned about noise, or RGB, but you care about price to value ratio, take advantage of the fact the 303 is a large enough size case.

Buy 4 fans for less than the price of the expensive fan someone reccomended.

These are fairly quiet, 38CFM fans.


If you want higher CFM fans, here's a value pack of 5 here.

You can get a few fan splitters here.


Note, not all fans have to be PWM controlled. For some fans, can just run fans on their default setting, or H/M/L and not plug them into the motherboard (just use sata/molex power).

I don't know what kind of cooling you really require, a case with 7 fans will have serious cooling regardless. In smaller form factors, this is where the more serious high performance fans are critical. There's a lot of breathing room in the 303.

You could buy some zip ties for easier cable management maybe and possibly a magnetic screw holder so you can make sure those tiny screws don't get lost. The PSU already comes with all cables needed so no need to buy them if that's what you are talking about. The CPU comes with thermal paste already but if you'd like you can buy aftermarket paste: https://www.amazon.com/Arctic-Silver-AS5-3-5G-Thermal-Paste/dp/B0087X728K/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1499488869&sr=8-2&keywords=thermal+paste. Other than that I can't think of anything else. The stuff I listed are more of just quality of life stuff and are totally not necessary so I think you are fine as is. And I'm just curious, why did you buy a mounting bracket? Pretty much all cases including the one you have listed has a place to install the SSD in.

Here's what you should have done.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

Type|Item|Price

----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel Core i7-6700K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor | $419.99
CPU Cooler | Thermalright TRUE Spirit 140 POWER 73.6 CFM CPU Cooler | $54.95 @ Amazon
Motherboard | MSI Z170A-G45 GAMING ATX LGA1151 Motherboard | $0.00
Memory | G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2400 Memory | $62.99 @ Newegg
Video Card | PowerColor Radeon R9 390 8GB PCS+ Video Card | $287.10 @ Newegg
Case | Fractal Design Define S w/Window ATX Mid Tower Case | $69.99 @ NCIX US
Power Supply | EVGA SuperNOVA P2 650W 80+ Platinum Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply | $79.99 @ NCIX US
Wireless Network Adapter | Gigabyte GC-WB867D-I 802.11a/b/g/n/ac PCI-Express x1 Wi-Fi Adapter | $29.88 @ OutletPC
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total (before mail-in rebates) | $1024.89
| Mail-in rebates | -$20.00
| Total | $1004.89
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-05-14 16:27 EDT-0400 |

Much better cooler (beats the R1), get it from Amazon though.
Better GPU
Better PSU
Got rid of the loud and pretty bad case fans.

This cooler is not a liquid cooler, but it is basically the BEST cpu fan on the market. If you really really wanna do liquid cooling, and if you feel ok with replacing the coolant in a while then IMO go with this

Here's a Newegg link and it turns out I was mistakenly calling it the 'Rev.2' when it's the 'Rev.B'

*It looks like Amazon has something similar but it might not be the Rev.B with AM4 support. They do have this Mugen 5 by Scythe (Rev.B so AM4 support) though which I've read good things about but no experience. It looks like a larger H7 but with more heat-pipes and a better mounting system.

I also like the ThermalRight True Spirit Power 140, super quiet with great cooling performance.

212 Evo is very far from the best under $60. It is one of the best for under ~$35 but definitely NOT the previous.

THESE are the best (thermal performance & low noise) up to $60

http://pcpartpicker.com/part/scythe-cpu-cooler-scmg4000

http://pcpartpicker.com/part/thermalright-cpu-cooler-machoreva and True Spirit 140

http://pcpartpicker.com/part/phanteks-cpu-cooler-phtc12dxbk

GitHub link w/files: https://github.com/MadlyFX/Index-Fan-Mount

A360 link: https://a360.co/2L61Gbc

Shapeways links for stone age people without 3D printers:

http://shpws.me/Rkx3

http://shpws.me/Rkx8

http://shpws.me/Rkx9

Index-Fan-Mount

3D printable files for a dual fan bracket for the front of the Valve Index

Design Notes:

This is built upon the Valve provided 3D model of the visor and is intended to provide a way to cool the headset and/or the user. No electronics are provided, however wiring of the fans is trivial and plenty of internal space is provided.

The fans slip into the slots on the top of the bracket and are retained by internal tabs. Optional caps, which are separate files, can be snapped onto the top to cover the gap to improve looks. The bracket itself utilizes the same locating pins of the stock visor, which means magnets must be used.

This was designed around the Noctua 40mm fans, which have rubber bumpers and are a little bit thiccer than standard 40mmx10mm fans. As such, if you use stock fans, you may find them to be a bit loose. Nothing a little double sided foam tape can't fix!

Finally, this does violate the Sensor Inclusion Zone of the Index, which means it could theoretically affect tracking performance. A photo showing this is in the root of this directory.

Printing Notes:

I would not recommend printing this using ABS, or any warp-prone filament. The locating pins of the Index are very small and very distant from each other, which means even a small amount of part warp will throw off the alignment. PLA or PETG would be my recommendation here. Of course, if it does warp, that double sided foam tape can save you once again.

This has a flat bottom and is designed to be printed "upright." It will still require supports, however none on visible surfaces.

BOM

You will need to print one of each file.

These are the recommended fans: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NEMGCIA/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_.JGiDbBDF39J2

Use 1/8"x1/8" axially magnetized cylinder magnets, such as K&J #D22-N52.

I must be a bit slow today. Your VMs are going to stay on the current machine, but you want to get rid of those drives? I'm just clarifying that you aren't going to be running VMs across a Gb network.

At any rate, it sounds like a stand alone FreeNAS box with low power CPU might suit the bill nicely. Check out http://blog.brianmoses.net/2015/01/diy-nas-2015-edition.html

EDIT: to get enough drives you may wish to check out http://www.reddit.com/r/DataHoarder/comments/29i0j4/for_the_wiki_which_raid_card_andor_sas_expanded

Also, I think with some creativity I bet you can get 6 drives plus an SSD into a Lenovo TS140. It looks like it ships with the ability to have 3 3.5inHDDs. You can leave an SSD Velcroed to the bottom of the case and then add a 5.25 to 3.5 3 drive thingy: http://www.amazon.com/EverCool-Dual-Drive-Triple-Cooling/dp/B0032UUGF4 There isn't much better value out there...

Any recommendations for a CPU cooler with some RGB functionality? Specifically RGB Fusion compatible. Motherboard is an Aorus B450 Elite and case is an NZXT H500. So far, I've found the DeepCool Gammaxx GT BK and the DeepCool Fryzen. Are either of these good choices? Would I be better off just getting a RGB fan and attaching it to a good cooler?

Is there a difference between the RF120 and RF120M fans, besides no wired controller? If not, it looks to me like the 2nd set is clearly the better value, with 2 extra fans for only 8$ more.

1. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074P19HSL?tag=pcpapi-20&linkCode=ogi&th=1&psc=1

VS.

2. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07HN199YJ?tag=pcpapi-20&linkCode=ogi&th=1

Thank you for the help!

I don't speak moon rune, but looking at amazon jp myself and comparing the relative prices, the mugen also looks like a reasonably good buy. At least, that looks like a scythe mugen to me.

https://www.amazon.co.jp/gp/product/B06ZYB8K77/ref=s9_acsd_top_hd_bw_b2LdAnz_c_x_w?pf_rd_m=AN1VRQENFRJN5&pf_rd_s=merchandised-search-3&pf_rd_r=G7GHY07VM55JS26BBP1B&pf_rd_r=G7GHY07VM55JS26BBP1B&pf_rd_t=101&pf_rd_p=aef8a455-4a0e-5d67-8a3d-693156dd9512&pf_rd_p=aef8a455-4a0e-5d67-8a3d-693156dd9512&pf_rd_i=2151905051

If you want the current hardware you've selected now, what I would do if i wanted to save some money is get a msi b450 tomohawk it doesn't have Asus aura but does have msi mystic light for rgb control. You could also go with an air cooler like Noctua NH-D15 and a cheaper case like the Nzxt H500 but other then that I don't seem much else to save you money on.

If it's holding steady at 78C, that's a bit high but well within reason.

Prime95 will cause your temps to ramp very quickly. My cpu (a 7600k with a small tower cooler in an ITX case) ramps from 40 to 75 in about 3 seconds, and goes back down again when i turn off Prime95.

If it makes your feel better, go ahead an buy some aftermarket paste (I'm a fan of Noctua's) , which will help shave things down a few degrees. The default paste on a lot of coolers isn't the best, or is too much/too little. And as I mentioned, make sure you removed the plastic film from the paste pad if it came with it.

I've put together two mini ITC builds. One with a cpu upgrade and one that just reuses your current cpu.

1) $525: i5-9600K upgrade

• Why intel?: There aren't any b450/x470 mITX motherboards with USB bios flashback functionality. So we'd have to overspend on one of the new X570 motherboards if we wanted a 3000 series Ryzen cpu, which is not worth it. So we have to go Intel, and the 9600K is the strongest intel cpu that fits the budget.
  
• Wait for the price drop: Intel is expected to drop its cpu prices by up to 15% to compete with the new Ryzen cpus. The Ryzen cpus are released tomorrow, July 7th.
  
• Performance Improvement: The 9600K is ~33% stronger in gaming and will result in an ~11% increase in FPS over your current cpu while gaming on high settings.That number will go up if games begin to use 6 cores as is expected to occur over the next few years (because the 9600K has 6 cores and the 4590 has 4 cores).
  
• Thermal Paste: You'll need to clean the existing thermal paste off of your cpu and heatsink with 90%+ rubbing alcohol and a microfiber wipe (or a coffee filter). Then apply new thermal paste and reseat the cpu cooler. If you don't have any thermal paste, I recommend a tube of Arctic Silver 5 for $6 on amazon.
  

• Case: You can use any mini itx case, just verify that the CPU cooler and video card will fit. My personal recommendation is the node 304. I selected it because of its build quality, simple aesthetic, and lack of a window. I'm assuming you'd prefer not to have a window so that you don't have to worry about it during transport. Comes with 3 fans and a fan controller.
  

  
  

  PCPartPicker Part List
  

  
  

  Type|Item|Price
  

  ----|:----|:----
  CPU | Intel - Core i5-9600K 3.7 GHz 6-Core Processor | $238.90 @ OutletPC
  CPU Cooler | Cooler Master - Hyper 212 Plus 76.8 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler | $0.00
  Motherboard | *ASRock - Z390M-ITX/ac Mini ITX LGA1151 Motherboard | $126.98 @ SuperBiiz
  Memory | *Corsair - Vengeance LPX 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3000 Memory | $67.89 @ OutletPC
  Storage | Samsung - 850 EVO-Series 250 GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | $0.00
  Video Card | EVGA - GeForce GTX 1080 8 GB FTW Gaming ACX 3.0 Video Card | $0.00
  Case | Fractal Design - Node 304 Mini ITX Tower Case | $90.98 @ Newegg
  Power Supply | Corsair - CX 600 W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-modular ATX Power Supply | $0.00
  | Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
  | Total (before mail-in rebates) | $554.75
  | Mail-in rebates | -$30.00
  | Total | $524.75
  | *Lowest price parts chosen from parametric criteria |
  | Generated by PCPartPicker 2019-07-06 09:11 EDT-0400 |
  ------------------------
  
  #2) $189: Reusing your i5-4690
  
  

• Motherboard in build is at this Ebay link.
  
• You can use any H97 or Z97 mini ITX motherboard, but the Z97s are double the price and not worth it since you can't overclock the 4590 anyway.
  

• There is a new motherboard available, but it costs $200, and it's not worth investing that much money into a platform with no real upgrade path.
  

  
  

  PCPartPicker Part List
  

  
  

  Type|Item|Price
  

  ----|:----|:----
  CPU | Intel - Core i5-4590 3.3 GHz Quad-Core Processor | $0.00
  CPU Cooler | Cooler Master - Hyper 212 Plus 76.8 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler | $0.00
  Motherboard | ASRock - H97M-ITX/AC Mini ITX LGA1150 Motherboard | $98.00
  Memory | G.Skill - Ripjaws X Series 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR3-1333 Memory | $0.00
  Storage | Samsung - 850 EVO-Series 250 GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | $0.00
  Video Card | EVGA - GeForce GTX 1080 8 GB FTW Gaming ACX 3.0 Video Card | $0.00
  Case | Fractal Design - Node 304 Mini ITX Tower Case | $90.98 @ Newegg
  Power Supply | Corsair - CX 600 W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-modular ATX Power Supply | $0.00
  | Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
  | Total | $188.98
  | Generated by PCPartPicker 2019-07-06 09:11 EDT-0400 |

I got one for christmas and am trying to cool it off, too.
I got a heatsync: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ZRDRX8M
And Noctula Fan: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NEMGCIA

But with the thermal pad, it still shoots up to ~96 degrees under full load. It must be the thermal pad because the heatsync stays totally cool with the fan running (it does warm up without the fan).

I wonder if we could put metal shims on top of the two cpu dies to lift the heatsync away from the rest of the surface mount components and then use proper thermal paste to bind them with the heatsync. I'll have to do some research into this... :) Let me know if you guys come up with any other ideas... !

It was salvaged from my previous PC. Idk why I bought that power supply for my previous PC since my previous PC had one foot in the grave already haha. But it helped me save some money for my current build!

So you think I should be able to overclock my current PC with no issues? I’m always a little concerned about overclocking since I’ve heard it voids any warranties you have on your PC parts and I want this PC to last at least 4-5 years.

(Forgot to list that I currently use this CPU cooler: DEEPCOOL GAMMAXX GT BK, CPU Air Cooler, SYNC RGB Fan and RGB Black Top Cover, Cable or Motherboard Control Supported, 4 Heatpipes, 120mm RGB Fan, Universal Socket Solution https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074P3JCXX/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_DxSuDbY0R3XHX)

>accelero air cooler

Some ppl were able to get it fit w/ minor mods, but I still can't find this AIO irregardless . An air cooler looks like an easier and cheaper option. I found this one for my GPU. Would liquid cooling be a significant increase compared to an air cooler?

Everything is relatively inexpensive and simple to do so take your time, re-watch the V20 breakdown video a few times and be gentle!

https://youtu.be/p5zgV9TIrPU

Also I've read the application of a new coat of thermal paste helps with screen burn in. I'm not sure how true this is but I'll keep on eye out for it. I don't have screen burn in issues like some (always running comfort view on medium setting and a blue blocker at night) so fingers crossed. Hope this help guys.

Mine is from October 2016.

Noctua NT-H1 Thermal Compound - Retail https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002CQU14A/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apap_mBXIxorpsyLBk

Kinda Interested in the C7; but just want to let you know it's the same price for Amazon prime members:

https://www.amazon.com/Cryorig-CR-C7A-Flow-Heatsink-47mm/dp/B0177GTV9U/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1487459880&sr=8-1&keywords=C7+cooler

I'd be very interested if it was 20 xD

If you change the CPU like others mention it won't make much of a difference however you will have the oppportunity to clean things up and reapply new thermal compound I always use this stuff. For 8 bucks though it's not a big loss. You can run benchmark before and after to see.

Also consider you need a 64 bit OS when increasing the memory size beyond 3 GB. I assume you were loading it with four modules, you could get these instead with faster timings for gaming for about the same price. The heatsinks look cool, and in my opinion matter but others say they don't do much!

Another piece of advice is if you are faced with upgrading the BIOS to accept the chip or memory, do not flash it from an operating system.

A cheap SSD for the OS and two games would also do justice. You can use your existing drive for storage.

> where are they connected?

I thought I explained that in the album. If I wasn't clear enough I'll just say it here.

I have seven fans: one is the CPU fan and the other are six case fans connected together by a fan hub. The CPU fan is connected to the CPU_FAN1 on the motherboard. The fan hub is connected to CPU_FAN2 on the motherboard.
___
Further specifications:

• CPU fan - Hyper 212 EVO
  
  
• Case fans - NZXT 120mm V2 (x3) front intake, [NZXT 140mm V2](http://www.amazon.com/NZXT-Technologies-Performance-Cooling-RF-FN122-RB/dp/B00KJGYNW6/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_1?
  s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1418777641&sr=1-1-fkmr0&keywords=NZXT+VN+V2) (x3) top and back exhaust
  
• Fan hub - Phanteks Fan Hub
  
• Motherboard - MSI Z97S SLI Krait Edition
  
• CPU - i5-4690K @ 3.50 GHz

Yea, the GTX 580 cooler was $36 on ebay. So i was like maybe it'll fit. And I had the 7970 cooler left over from selling my 7970. And thought maybe I'll use them to cfx since they look and perform identical.

Fits perfectly in the 54mm X 54mm holes.

Wanted to save money as the AC4 ~$70 and AC3 ~$65 cost almost double for the same cooler with some additional accessories I don't need.

The safest thing is a properly-sized resistor on the 5V rail. If you don't do that, the PSU may appear to run fine without it initially and then randomly shut down, reset, etc., potentially ruining prints. You need to keep drawing 1-2 amps at 5V to keep things happy. If you really want ideas for things to put on 5V that are actually useful:

• 5V LEDs
  
• Raspberry Pi
  
• a powered USB hub
  
• USB webcam
  
• 5V fan(s) to cool stepper drivers/control board
  
  Source: Have repurposed several AT and ATX PSUs for bench supplies and reprap power supplies.

Personally I think something like this is as cool as water cooling: http://www.amazon.com/ARCTIC-Accelero-Efficient-VRM-Cooling-DCACO-V800001-GBA01/dp/B00HHMJIIO?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=ox_sc_sfl_title_1&smid=A28VADU4WUGJ11

Big heatsink on both ends of the card, and it has pretty amazing characteristics as well. With none of the drawbacks of water cooling.

Here are $7 Cooler Master Sickle Flow LED 3-pin fans that work pretty well if you want some color coming through: https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835103091&cm_re=120mm_cooler_master_led-_-35-103-091-_-Product

Super budget oriented 3-pin from Rosewill, generally regarded as the best for absolute dirt cheap ($15 for a 4-pack): https://www.amazon.com/Rosewill-Sleeve-Computer-Cooling-ROCF-13001/dp/B00KB8CB9O/ref=as_li_ss_tl?&linkCode=sl1&tag=fansguru-20&linkId=6664da0240826b6b802c299fea59943d

Fractal Design 3-pin for $10 each: https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835352009&cm_re=fractal_120mm_fan-_-35-352-009-_-Product

Maybe someone else can add some suggestions in the budget range.

Mate, I don't know what you're playing at here, but this isn't fooling anyone. Your timestamped photo (https://imgur.com/NaNE1cd) is definitely NOT a NF-S12A, its not brown and beige in color and the fan blades are completely different (https://noctua.at/en/products/fan/nf-s12a-pwm). I'm virtually certain its not a noctua at all, it looks like these generic rosewill 120mm fans.

Throwing a $30 cooler seems like it'd kill the deal right? Like for OCing don't you want a better cooler? I'd say a $90 Noctua, but then it looks like absolute shit and covers your RAM, so probably a water cooler or something? I really dunno.

My Ryzen build is a $200 cpu, $100 mobo (after discount), and free cooler.

Edit: I found this cooler is super popular and $50 - https://www.amazon.com/Thermalright-True-Spirit-140-Power/dp/B00IYEEOMO#customerReviews

I think 340 GBP is a great price for XT.
If you manage to solve your card issues, which I hope you do, you might want to consider getting https://www.amazon.co.uk/ARCTIC-Accelero-Xtreme-IV-Compatible/dp/B00HHMJIIO for 45 quid.

Fantastic cooler for your reference XT

Interesting, it does say it's compatible on the Amazon page as well. Not sure why they have a dedicated AM4 version then

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Noctua-NH-D15-SE-AM4-Premium-Dual-Tower/dp/B01NC06ZYT/ref=sr_1_6?keywords=noctua+am4&qid=1565185135&s=computers&sr=1-6

Looks like it's just a special edition?

Depending on the slots still open on your computer you might be able to add a few more fans to the case which will help a bit to an extent.

I assume that's not the stock fan setup, but you could always look into putting a higher efficiency thermal paste on it to squeeze out a bit of extra heat reduction.

This might be a good choice if you go that route, supposedly it can reduce your temps by 2 degrees by itself through better thermal conduction.

The Noctua NH-D14 (https://pcpartpicker.com/product/46tCmG/noctua-cpu-cooler-nhd14) works super well, but its a bit pricy.

The CRYORIG C7 (http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0177GTV9U/?tag=pcpapi-20) is cheaper but doesn't cool as well, so you won't be able to overclock as much.

The Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO (https://pcpartpicker.com/product/hmtCmG/cooler-master-cpu-cooler-rr212e20pkr2) is the cheapest of the bunch, and again, won't be able to overclock as much.

You can look around on Amazon and at reviews as well though, and find what you think is best.

Perfect, thanks for the info man. Mine is an an open faced cabinet, has about a foot of room above it, 6 inches on the right & left and then about 8 in the back. Currently I have 2 80mm cabinet fans, one blowing air in from the front and the other blowing air out of the whole in the back.

these: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IJ2J2K0/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It was kinda warm under there the other day so I figured I'd be safe and at least keep the cabinet it's self cool.

Ok, here is my build list minus a couple things that I bought locally.

Century 24 Hour Plug-in Mechanical Timer Grounded https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MVFF59S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_e3IZi2JQyzkoT

ON Smart Solution Household Power Strip-4 Multi Outlets with 4 USB Ports-15.5W Universal (100V~240V) Charging Station-600J Surge Protector Power Bar-6 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01EWSU32U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_ZxNnKD3WD1MXo

Roleadro UFO 138W LED Grow Light for Home Grower https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00RWYCRB2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_gk82nAf13MTzV

AC Infinity MULTIFAN S5, Quiet Dual 80mm USB Fan for Receiver DVR Playstation Xbox Computer Cabinet Cooling https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IJ2J2K0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_SCXe7KPU8uBsq

Plus a roll of black duct tape, roll of reflective ducting tape, and a 3 gallon smart pot

Edit: Oh yeah, and 4 Ace Hardware 5 gallon buckets

I concur with other, a beefier cpu would be great, and it doesn't really have to be the latest series.
Also whatever cpu you decide I would throw in a cooler master hyper 212. It's way better than a stock cooler and you get a lot of bang for your buck.
Also use good paste, like arctic silver
https://www.amazon.com/Cooler-Master-Hyper-Direct-Contact/dp/B005O65JXI

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0087X728K/ref=pd_aw_lpo_147_tr_img_2/137-7749609-9917537?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=Y1MJXV70MCQBKFB2JBGK

for $50 I would recommend the thermalright true spirit 140 for CPU cooling http://www.amazon.com/Thermalright-True-Spirit-140-Power/dp/B00IYEEOMO?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00

if you look here http://www.anandtech.com/show/5054/corsair-hydro-series-h60-h80-and-h100-reviewed/5 the h60 is ~18% warmer than the h100, while the spirit 140 is ~11% warmer than the h100 in
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?288762-Thermalright-TRUE-Spirit-140-Power

edit: ignore my previous comments on ram, for me it loaded the newegg $75 option, didn't see it was $60 on amazon.

Could save $6 on the ram if you don't care about fancy heat sinks http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231964

Do you have a general case thermometer temp? To be honest sounds like airflow. Which is overheating your entire computer and your CPU and or videocard, hard drive in an effort to save itself is shutting down. From the panel design it shows through air vents going up and down which if you setup the water cooling to pull "all" heat out would be fine. But you said that you don't have it on the video card? Correct? Also are you pulling heat away from the hard drives? I had issues with some hard drives where they would get really warm and have issue's. The fix was to get a drive slot fan. Something like this https://www.amazon.com/EverCool-Dual-Drive-Triple-Cooling/dp/B0032UUGF4 The theory being creating airflow enough to remove all heat out of the case would prevent the parts from overheating too much. Of course that would mean you no longer can close your door and have the clean facade. So if you want to keep your case looking clean I would try to figure out a way to remove all heat from the case. Not just the CPU and video card which you should already be doing to be honest but from your hard drives. Sometimes depending on your workload even memory.

Need a recommendation for a CPU Cooler for my AM4. I like low profile coolers and white color. This Cryorig fits my needs exactly, but I don't know if it supports AM4 socket. Any advice? Looking to upgrade from the Wraith Spire and get something nice, quiet, small, and preferably white. Thanks!

​

https://www.amazon.com/Cryorig-CR-C7A-Flow-Heatsink-47mm/dp/B0177GTV9U

​

Maybe the stock cooler is decent on a workstation, but on a gaming build with a decent GPU, it's just okay. I've got one of these in my main gaming rig and it dropped my temps something like 12-15c. On my desktop I have a Hyper T4 and it never goes above 53c. With that arctic cooler my gaming rig can go to 4.3GHz on my 6490k at something like 68-72c. You're not doing that with a stock cooler, it's already gonna be at 67-68c at stock clocks.

Neither cooler is $45, they're both sub-$25. Same thing with the jack on the car. It's cheap. Why do you want to potentially risk your life lifting a car on a flimsy default jack like this or this when something like this one is $30.

Both are non-conductive and both are not very good. If you can spring for Grizzly Kryonaut , get it as it's the best on the market right now. If you want to spend a little less for more compound, the tried and true NT-H1 is great. These are also both non-conductive.

Selection's kinda slim but I'd have to go with OEM fans just to keep costs down if I ever do decide to make a few. No way would I stick people with having to buy 20-30 dollar fans x6-7 in a 250-300 dollar case.

With dual ball bearing fans with a MTBF of 55k hours, they shouldn't be too bad.

The alternative is to go with 4x 200mm which seems to have a wider selection but that would increase the case size even more.

As for 9x120, yeah you can definitely wire up that many fans with either a fan control module or splitters that take power from molex/SATA.

Yeah, you'd want a better cooler for overclocking the 9700K (which I assume you're doing since you're getting a fairly expensive motherboard and PSU).

Something in the $50 range would be like a Thermalright Macho Rev. B or, if you really hate noise, the Scythe Mugen 5.

Although the 9700K can benefit from even more.

I wouldn't recommend the 860 EVO, as you could get something much better for the same price, the adata xpg sx8200 pro, which competes with the 970 evo.

FYI, that motherboard is currently available on Amazon right now for $180. Hasn't updated on PCPP yet.

At 4K? Almost no difference.

At 1080p yeah the i5 8400 has better FPS though.

If you don't plan to overclock, at least get a good CPU cooler for the ryzen. A Cheap 20-30 dollar cooler allows the Ryzen cpu to boost to higher clocks at stock.

Ryzen boost depends on temps. Unlike intel, ryzen can boost all cores, not just single or 2 cores, to 3.9ghz if temps are low enough.

https://i.redd.it/ie6lpf0si2q11.png

Cheap $20 cpu cooler: https://www.amazon.com/Cooler-Master-RR-T4-18PK-R1-Contact-Heatpipes/dp/B00BSKY1M4/

No, just using a Y splitter on each header isn't anything to worry about. Daisy-chaining them on the other hand...

Correct me if I'm wrong, but I believe the H60 only takes up one fan header, unless you're planning to add an additional fan for push/pull? (Which is a very minor performance increase, if that is your intention, but it's up to you).

What I did in my case, also with multiple fans, was get something like this that allows for control from the motherboard but power from the PSU. No strain on the MB, and easy control for the whole case.

I am using a Kraken x62 for my 7700k. I like AIOs and this one looks great. For air tho which is not bad, Dark Rock Pro 3 is really good as is the Noctua Air Cooler

DEEPCOOL GAMMAXX GT BK, CPU Air Cooler, SYNC RGB Fan and RGB Black Top Cover, Cable or Motherboard Control Supported, 4 Heatpipes, 120mm RGB Fan, Universal Socket Solution https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074P3JCXX/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_0Mc9Bb0X8GHPD

here is my most recent build

waited like 3-4 years for an upgrade and replaced everything but PSU, GPU, and HDDs.

Could look a bit better but i had no zip ties and didn't want to cut any wires. also a non-modular PSU.

and now i am getting coil noise from PSU :'(

not really sure i could do to make it look any better other than a new PSU with plug in ports like these sexy guys




parts links:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EB6O4N8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CRJSXR4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KPRWAX8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009VV56TY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

http://www.asus.com/Graphics_Cards/ENGTX560_Ti_DCII_TOP2DI1GD5/

The stock cooler will be fine, but I have this cooler on my 2700 and it works great even overclocked:

DEEPCOOL GAMMAXX GT https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074P3JCXX/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_.s4ADbXJV05WK

The Hyper 212 has been superseded by the H7 for non-frugal builds due to better performance at a good price. It's still too light for an OC'd 7700k.

If you want decent overclocking that's pretty quiet on the cheap then get one of these (if it will fit in your case): https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IYEEOMO/?tag=pcpapi-20

I do have an SSD, and I appreciate your advice immensely! If it is not to much trouble, could you explain overclocking briefly? Would it be worth it to improve online gaming performance? If so, should I invest in a cheap water cooled heatsink? Like this one?

If you're only going for 4.7 GHZ I was able to do it pretty easily on air with good temps on my 8700k. It would save you $100.

https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-Single-Tower-Cooler-NH-U14S/dp/B00C9FLSLY

Logic: your Xbox is overheating, based on everything you’ve said. Doesn’t matter the circumstances.

You might want to explore ways to clean dust out if it’s there, or buy a few small USB fans from amazon and use them to keep your Xbox cool.

I hid these in the space behind my Xbox and they direct air away. Works beautifully and they’re really quiet.

AC Infinity MULTIFAN S5, Quiet Dual 80mm USB Fan for Receiver DVR Playstation Xbox Computer Cabinet Cooling https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IJ2J2K0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_VQhQCb5WP50WR

well there are fanhubs like this one: https://www.amazon.com/Phanteks-PWM-Fan-Controller-PH-PWHUB_01/dp/B00M0R05WE

these are usually powered by a molex or sata connector and then one 4pin connector that goes to the cpu_fan connector on your motherboard to set the speed for the 3pin fans connected to the fanhub.

im using the one i just linked (powered by a sata connector), RPM changes based on cpu temperature/load. works great :)

on sale right now for 47.99 which is great value for a great cooler

https://www.amazon.com/Thermalright-True-Spirit-140-Power/dp/B00IYEEOMO/

If you save up a little more you should just go with an even better air cooler. You'd need like double your current budget to benefit from an AIO.

Sounds like the 3GB 1060 is for me. Thanks for the video! Though, it mentioned nothing about the 460/470.

As for the CPU cooler...Intel provides a stock cooler if you buy a new one, correct? So if I buy it new off Amazon, for example, I'd get the reference Intel cooler in the box?

Also, I'm thinking about the Elite 110 case instead of the 130.

...but if I did want to get a different cooler...would the C7 fit in the Elite 110 (different, smaller case)? If I can, I want to do a black/white theme, and I like the look of that cooler.

EDIT: 47mm size for the C7, 59mm for the geminii m4 (which CM says will fit), the c7 will do

And for RAM: do I really need more than 8GB for this kind of build? I have a big gaming rig that I have for everyday tasks (schoolwork, VMs, games that need more VRAM...I have a 970 in there).

Plus I'd get dual channel DDR4 at 2133 MHz...I think that will be plenty. The whole build is geared more towards lighter gaming and HTPC tasks. I know there are only two DIMM slots, but if I need to upgrade, I'll find a way lol.

That combo will work for a 5 gallon Space Bucket as long as you have a spacer or two since 60 watts with a gen 7 Vero is going to produce a lot of light.

You will be over driving the Vero 18 a little but they are well designed for that. You will want a good thermal paste, though.

https://www.amazon.com/Arctic-Silver-AS5-3-5G-Thermal-Paste/dp/B0087X728K

Now you need to find a heat sink and you should then have a nice light combo for a 5 gallon bucket. As per application notes, the Vero 18 can be used with a thermal epoxy so you can glue the Vero 18 to a heat sink if you don't want to drill/tap. Thermal adhesives are permanent.

https://www.amazon.com/Arctic-Silver-Premium-Adhesive-ASTA-7G/dp/B0087X7262

Artic Silver 5 is a pretty old compound. You can get better for around the same price.

I would recommend either:

• Noctur NT-H1 3.5 gram: $8.95
  
• Prolimatech Pk-1 5 gram: $10.99
  
  There is also Pk-2 and Pk-3 from Prolimatech, which offer 2-3 degrees better performance relative to Pk-1.

In that case a fan hub is probably your best option. The first one I could find that suits your needs is this one: https://www.amazon.com/Phanteks-PWM-Fan-Controller-PH-PWHUB_01/dp/B00M0R05WE

It should be safe to connect the water cooler fan to the hub as well. If you go with this set up it would mean that your fan speeds are all dependent on the CPU temperature, which might cause problems if you do GPU intensive stuff that doesn't affect the CPU.

For a better result there's probably some program that gives you manual control though.
If so you would have what you intended to have with the difference that the controls are digital.

Edit: I just did some more digging and got some more options for you.
https://www.overclockers.co.uk/nzxt-grid-v3-internal-digital-6-fan-controller-bb-004-nx.html
This would be a luxury version of what I linked above. it comes with it's own software and some gimmicks.

https://www.overclockers.co.uk/lamptron-cp436-4-channel-fan-control-for-pci-slot-silver-fg-005-lp.html
This would be a possibility if you have a free pci slot. It gives you some knobs on the back of your case with which you can control your fans. You'll need to use additional Y-splitters to connect all fans but that should be fine.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07HN199YJ/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_HajvDbBWEJPWA
Adressable and PWM, $10 more though.
The thermaltake core G21 is good, with 2 TG side panels. A NZXT H500 is also good and is a popular choice. Or a fractal design Meshify C is a good choice too.

That noctua should fit, LGA115x all have the same hole pattern so it would be compatible, however it isn't very generous for large ram sticks like you have. According to this site you'd get better performance from this with no ram clearance issues. However, that still isn't as good as a hyper212 which you already have.

As far as options that fit with tall RAM and are better than a 212, there are these on amazon CA:
PH-TC12DX
NH-U14S ($90)

Thanks!

I'm running a Ledgle Led Grow Light 300W Full Spectrum UV IR Plant Grow Lamp for Indoor Greenhouse Garden Plants Veg and Flowering in a couple of small storage containers I got from Home Depot. I have two fans drawing in air and one blowing air out;

AC Infinity MULTIFAN S5, Quiet Dual 80mm USB Fan for Receiver DVR Playstation Xbox Computer Cabinet Cooling

and I used this mylar with spray adhesive;

CoolGrows 2 Mil Mylar Film High Reflective Greenhouse Covering silver Foil Sheets for Grow Tent (4x25 FT)

I'm going 18 hours on/6 hours off.

I have a small CO2 generator I made with a couple of mason jars running a tube to the input fan. I also am running a humidified on low since I live in a very dry area.

The soil is a combo of organic Miracle Grow and some perlite;

8 Quarts xGarden Horticultural Grade Premium Perlite - Coarse and Chunky

Server before a recent upgrade

Server before a recent upgrade

My old system was rather simple and straight forward. It was a dual Xeon workstation motherboard (standard ATX) installed in a Rosewill 4U Server Chassis. The center rail perfectly fit the radiators of two Corsair H55s. The bracket works extremely well for the LGA1366.

Server after a hasty upgrade (not finished)

Center Rail

Back

Front

I upgraded my system about two weeks ago. Not finished yet - but it's functional. Since the new motherboard was an oversized EATX (13.2 x 13 inches) - I had to modify the case to get everything to fit. I noticed with 18 sticks of memory, the heat was a bit higher than the previous build. So, I have the radiators sandwiched with fans on both sides. This increased the airflow significantly and the fans are 120mm, so rather quiet.

However, with the fan sandwich, the center rail needed to be pushed back 1.5 inches. In the photo, I only pushed the rail back one inch so far. One of the sandwiches fit (the rear one), but you will notice that the one closest to camera isn't yet fitting. So, I need to pull everything out and drill new holes a half inch closer to the front.

The other thing I didn't realize is that when mounting standard ATX power supplies with an EATX motherboard, the chassis will need to have the power supply suspended above the motherboard and not on the side. You will see that the motherboard takes up a portion of the area where the power supply should go. So, I cut a hole above the i/o plate and moved the power supply mounting bracket that came with the case. Surprisingly, it holds extremely well and has nearly 1 inch of clearance between the power supply and one of the CPU water blocks and memory.

I also plan on 3d printing a shroud that will channel the air from the center rail out into the giant hole in the back and adding two 90mm fans as a proper exhaust.

How long have you had the blower gpu? Is it still returnable cause of all the options I'd pick that first. Otherwise its either change out the cooler on the gpu to something like this
ARCTIC Accelero Xtreme IV High-End Graphics Card Cooler with Backside Cooler for Efficient RAM and VRM-Cooling DCACO-V800001-GBA01 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HHMJIIO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_V1u6Cb86JBNYM
or the nzxt option but that requires buying a aio and having room for it. What gpu did you have before? Cause 2080tis run hot and a better case might help too.

My favorite skin product for palepalepale skin, it's great as foundation, concealer, and if you're not as pale as I am (and you're not!), it's a fab highlighter.

If someone were buying a CPU cooler just for aesthetics (looks), what would you recommend?

I have an i7 4790s with a stock cooler.

I just bought a nice windowed case, and am considering buying a cooler for the looks and decreased temps. I figure I could always use it when I upgrade my CPU/mobo down the line.

Currently I'm considering this one currently meant for an ITX, as it mounts with the fan facing the window:
https://www.amazon.com/Cryorig-CR-C7A-Flow-Heatsink-47mm/dp/B0177GTV9U/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1488213881&sr=8-1&keywords=c7+itx

Other options I should consider? Thanks!